wanderer

I'll apologize in advance - this is a very brief trip report, but wanted to thank everyone who helped with suggestions on restaurants, etc. for our first visit to Savannah.

We spent 3 nights in Savannah, and then 4 nights in Charleston, SC last week. Contrary to what lots of people had told us, we like Savannah much better. I fell in love with the city.

For anyone looking for a GREAT place to stay, we stayed at the Zeigler House, which I just happened to come across on Trip Advisor. We have traveled lots and lots, and this is the nicest place we have ever stayed. We had a private entrance "apartment", bedroom/living room combo with King bed (which was Heavenly!!), a pull-out sofa, fireplace, TV, large bathroom with whirlpool tub, kitchen with microwave, sink, frig, table and chairs, and then a large private patio with wicker furniture, a running fountain, garden sculptures. We told the owners what we like to eat in the AM, and it was all in our kitchen the day we checked in so we could just get up and have a leisurely breakfast and then coffee on the patio while we planned our day.

The owners, Dian and Ken were wonderful, and told us all about the house, and the history, and were available to help with suggestions on restaurants. The house is also on one of the prettiest streets in Savannah - West Jones - a location we found perfect for walking the city. We didn't want to leave. It was also extremely reasonably priced. We couldn't believe what we got.

We ate at Mrs. Wilkes - what a great time, and good food, Bistro Savannah - best meal there, Six Pence Pub - which was a last minute pick late at night, and not too bad, and got take-out from Vinnie Van Go Gos one night when we didn't feel like venturing out.

Basically, we walked and walked and walked. One day South of us through the Forsythe Park area. We had originally planned on staying in a B&B (Catherine Ward House Inn) South of there recommended in Frommers, but after seeing the area, were SO glad we did not.

Another day we spent walking from our street down to the Riverfront, and Factors Walk, all of which I found a little touristy and kind of tacky. It was also crawling with tourists.

We spent some time the 3rd day at City Market, which was fun, and just poked around the shops.

We also took a Trolley Tour, which I am not sure we would do again. We saw as much walking as we did with the tour. Perhaps the carriage rides are better, but Savannah is small, and you can get a good sense of it just walking about.

We really liked the squares, and parks, and the greenery, which Charleston lacks. We also found the people much friendlier in Savannah. One night a woman saw us pouring over a map trying to find a place to eat. She came over and gave us 4-5 places that were open and good. The next night we were walking back to our place, and we heard someone yelling to us, and it was her again, asking how we made out the night before. That would NEVER happen where I come from (Boston area).

We toured a couple houses, which were really interesting, and did the walking tour in Frommers book of Midnight in the Garden fame. That was fund for me, as I really liked the book. You see "The Book" references everywhere.

Speaking of books, there is a GREAT bookstore we went to, which was in an old house, and had a separate room for different book categories.

Savannah seems to be emerging and "coming back", as there are still many empty store fronts, and the girl who helped us on the street told us to be careful walking at night, as there had been some robberies where people hid in the bushes, and then jumped out to steal purses, etc. I also read the paper one day, and the front page story was of a 43 year old woman who had been stabbed to death be a couple of teenagers as she came out of the grocery store and was walking to her car. Some sort of attempted carjacking. That freaked me out a little bit, but I never felt unsafe walking around, even at night.

All in all, we had a great time, and wish we had added one more day to Savannah and had one less in Charleston. Great city!!

annabelle2

Thanks for the report, wanderer. A friend and I will be spending one day/night in Savannah at the end of this month (we'll be on our way to meet friends elsewhere, so just squeezing in this quick overnight) and your report is helpful.

2 questions:
1 -- we're going to need a late, casual dinner the night we arrive; where is the pub you mention?

2 -- if you could tour just on historic home, which one would you pick?
Thanks in advance!

wanderer

The pub was the Six Pence Pub at 245 Bull St., which is the main street that runs North/South and divides the East/West section of the city. Julia Roberts filmed a movie here called Something to Talk About. Food was very good, large portions, and prices were very reasonable.

For houses, I would see the Owens-Thomas House on 124 Abercorn. We missed this one, as we ran out of time, but Dian, the inn owner where we stayed says this is the "jewel".

One thing I forgot to mention, is the many beautiful churches. They are worth a visit, in particular, Cathedral of St. John the Baptist on East Harris Street.

Try to eat at Mrs. Wilkes if you can (lunch only, and not open weekends). No reservations are required.

Have fun!

GoTravel

Glad you enjoyed my part of the country wanderer! Living between the two cities, we spend a lot of time in both. I swear when I'm in Charleston I favor Charleston and when I'm in Savannah, I favor Savannah. I think the biggest difference is the shopping and dining is better in Charleston.

The way I describe the differences between Charlestonians (true blue, can trace the anscestors) and Savannians (ditto) is that the former are snooty and the latter are one inch away from the nuthouse.

OliveOyl

Thanks for the trip report wanderer. Glad you loved the city. My brother is in agreement with you re the Charleston/Savannah debate, and for the same reasons you preferred Savannah. I lean toward Charleston, although we lived in Savannah. I agree with your assessment of River St too...my least favorite area in town!

The bookstore you mentioned is E Shavers in Madison Square. The ground level is the bookstore, and the owners live above. Great place! (Lovely house, yes, but the bookstore is terrific.)

Was the incident you are talking about on April 22, by chance? It didn't happen in the historic district, if so, but I have always warned off doing much walking away from the more trafficked areas after dark. Things do happen and that was a chance we rarely took.

Owens-Thomas is my favorite as well. When we lived there the renovation wasn't completely finished which made it more fascinating.

Thanks again for the nice report I love the area you stayed it by the way. Jones St is one of the prettiest in the historic district.

gail

Enjoyed reading your report - will file away suggestions as my son will be spending the next 4 years in college in Savannah - I may become my own sort of Savannah expert by then, but as of now, I have never been there!

travleis

Savannah vs. Charleston is like Yankees vs. Red Sox, LA vs. NYC, mountains vs. beach.
They appeal to different types of people.
Savannah is much more relaxed and low key. Easier to 'slip into' and feel part of it.
Charleston is, by comparison, more formal and showy. And for food quality on a per capita basis Charleston is unsurpassed in the USA.
Just depends on what appeals.

wanderer

I forgot to mention that Savannah has SCAD (Savannah College of Art and Design) which has done a nice job of restoring buildings around the city. I also think the students add some life.

I hope that Savannah continues to prosper and evolve. Someone hit the nail on the head - Savannah seemed (to us) much more laid back and accepting (and welcoming).

I was unprepared for the size of Charleston, and the commercialism. I had read that Savannah was larger, but it didn't feel that way.

One other place we ate that we liked alot - casual - was Cafe at City Market. Very good, different sandwiches, etc. Very good prices also.

GoTravel

Funny you mention commercialism in Charleston. Did you realize that the model for the National Historic Register is based on Charlestons own Historic Register?

Back around the turn of last century, when industrialism was taking over other cities, Charleston wanted to preserve her history and put severe restrictions on buildings downtown.

wanderer

That is interesting. We were truly overwhelmed in Charleston by shop after shop after shop. I love to shop, but this was too much.

We also really disliked the "hawkers" we called them, standing in the doorways (mostly on East Bay) trying to get you to come in to shop/eat. that really turned me off.