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Old Sep 26th, 2011, 07:51 PM
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San Franciso-Pacific Grove-Wine Country

Hello. I am writing this to say thank you so very much to everyone who helped us plan our trip from the UK to California. It ended up being two years in the planning - mostly because a leak in our bathroom led to us having to postpone for a year! I hate it when life gets in the way of travelling!
We arrived in San Francisco last night after travelling for 22 hours. It all began at 4.30am UK time on Sunday when we left Cheltenham to head to Birmingham airport to board our first of two flights to the US. I am not going to lie, I hate flying so this part of the trip was horrid.
We arrived at our Noe Valley (thank you Stu Dudley) apartment at Dolores-Duncan at around 7pm and had to pop our for supplies before unpacking and settling in. I don't know when I have ever been this tired, but washing off the plane with a long soak in the tub and a good night's sleep helped a great deal.
We woke up this morning to stunning blue skies. Yay!
Everyone is so friendly here. Looking confused with a map in your hand? People just offer directions. They are so friendly and welcoming. We had some amazing, generous help this morning while using the J line into the city, where we headed to Chinatown for the City Guides tour.
People are so generous with their time and local knowledge. It's so lovely and we are very appreciative.
Our guide, Louise, was incredibly informative and interesting and delivered the information in such a way that we were keen to hear all she had to offer. It really makes a differnce when you hear it from someone who does the 'job' because they love their city. Unbelievably, she had just returned from a holiday in....Cheltenham. Her husband was on the same Sticky Toffee Pudding Journey as me - the ultimate one is out there!
Anyway, back to Chinatown. We heard a fascinating history of the Chinese community's time in San Francisco, right up to the present day and the mayoral candidate. We visited a temple (called Tin How, I think). We also saw fortune cookies being made, saw a musical barber (Sinatra was said to be a customer) perform Clemintine on an erhu. He was apparently in the movie Pursuit of Happyness. After the tour we were given a list of recommended restaurants for dim sum. We went to New Asia, where, naturally, we ordered way too much food. A great experience.
We had some retail therapy before heading back to Noe Valley. We were given clipper cards or passes at the apartment, which is great because I am sure we will use them a lot.
After dropping off our purchases at our San Franciso temporary home, we picked up Stu Dudley's Noe Valley walk notes and headed out again.
This is a lovey walk and introduced us to a gorgeous area, packed with great independent shops and restaurants. We are, sadly, losing so many of these in the tough, economic climate in the UK so we really appreciated seeing them here.
We hope to visit some of the restaurants during our stay, budget and time allowing.
Tonight we were drawn into the Pasta Gina deli, next to the restaurant Bacco, where we collected a card and hope to return.
We were still a little tired from the flights, so a deli seemed the perfect solution and the sign advertising cannoli called out and we obeyed. We ended up get dinner too - lasagne for me, meatballs for my husband, Grant - too.
It was a great walk Stu, thanks again. We are so happy to be staying here.
Tomorrow, a taste of North Beach tour, perhaps a boat cruise and, in the evening, our first baseball game. We are hoping to take a train to AT & T Park. Need to research that now.
Again, thanks so much for everyone's help with this incredible trip. And may the good weather continue.
Lisa
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Old Sep 26th, 2011, 08:11 PM
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What a great first day!

I think, but don't quote me on this (since I never take muni) you can take the J Church streetcar from Noe Valley to downtown - get off at Montgomery Street and walk the rest of the way (I work near the Ferry Bldg, and I walk all the way ). Also, it depends whether you're starting from your "home" or from somewhere else in the city.
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Old Sep 26th, 2011, 09:10 PM
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Or you can get off the J at any of the underground stops and catch the N on the same platform and it will take you to the ballpark. The N will come above ground at the Embarcadero and go around the Bay to the Park--it is more scenic than walking down Third from Montgomery,
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Old Sep 26th, 2011, 09:24 PM
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Thanks for more great advice.
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Old Sep 27th, 2011, 01:48 PM
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EVERYTHING is more scenic than walking down Third from Montgomery
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Old Sep 28th, 2011, 07:07 AM
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We started early yesterday morning, taking the J train to Powell and then walking to North Beach in stunning sunshine.
We spent some time watching seniors enjoying tai chi in Washington Square Park, then there was the other group who were performing some kind of fun and funky line dance. It was so great. They loved it and they all looked fit, happy and healthy. There were lots of dog walkers too - fantastic to see so many people enjoying their green space.
We also loved the Catholic Church of St Peter and St Paul. We went inside during a stop on our Local Tastes tour and lit a candle. What a beautiful church, so well maintained and clearly valued by the local community.
Our tour started with a coffee stop. I've stopped drinking coffee in the UK because the chain coffee shops offer an unpleasantly bitter brew. But my Cafe Roma cappucchino was smooth and delicious. Here, our guide, Tom, described the roasting process and pointed out the reason we were enjoying a smooth, non-bitter coffee was because it was freshly roasted. Yum.
Next stop was a bakery specialising in focaccia, L'Guria I think? We tried mushroom and pizza varieties - divine. The liars' biscuits (I think that's what they were called because of the icing sugar evidence left behind) were really good too.
As we continued the journey, which was to lead us to consume treats roughly equal to our body weight, there were more baked goods to sample. This time sour dough bread and biscotti. This too was a revelation. I didn't enjoy the bread we bought from a Noe Valley deli the night before. It was a little too sour for my taste. But this recipe was delicious. The biscotti didn't disappoint either. And it softer than others I've tried - no preservatives here. We were given the opportunity to see the huge, brick ovens here - apparently most of these ovens in the city were built brick-by-brick by one family. If memory serves, the Glasers.
Still more food ahead - a chocolate stop this time. Cioccalota's offerings were too good to turn down. I love fudge and the Black Panther was heaven. We stopped by Cafe Trieste, where Coppola wrote The Godfather before it was time for another treat - this time eclairs. I was starting to feel a little unwell but there was an olive oil tasting and pizza before this taste-athon was over. Great food, great people on the tour and an informative, engaging guide. The price was a little steep at $59 each, but when you consider the vast amount of food and the three hours dedicated to the foodie cause, perhaps worth it.
We took a bus from North Beach to Fisherman's Wharf for a boat cruise. We first stopped at the NFL shop to get a football shirt for my nephew in Durban, South Africa. My husband is a 49ers fan and we would have liked to have seen a game at Candlestick Park, but we discovered there isn't a game while we are here. Grant said that perhaps this was for the best because the tickets are little pricey and I do find it hard to sit still for too long. We got a Rice shirt, which I hope my nephew will love.
Next stop, the boat. I love cruises and, in beautiful weather, this was a memorable one. Views of the city, Alcatraz and, of course, the Golden Gate and Bay bridges provided thousands (I'm not joking) of picture opportunities for Grant. I took some too, but it was also nice to sit and soak up the atmosphere and revel in the fact that, after two years of planning, we were at last. Perfect.
Once ashore, we had to make plans to head for AT&T stadium for the Giants Game. The historic F trains were all full and not stopping, so we walked to the Ferry Building where we treated ourselves to glass of wine before taking a train to the stadium. The clipper passes, provided along with our apartment, were proving very useful.
I'm not a huge sports fan. I'll watch Liverpool play footy (soccer) mostly because it's where I was born and for sentimental reasons, my dad was simply a HUGE fan. Still, sports fan or no, I couldn't help but get swept up in the great Giants' fans' spirit. So much good feeling, camaraderie and..just pure excitement. And Grant, who loves baseball too, was in seventh heaven. I got a T-shirt and we headed up to our seats, stopping for a hot dog each and some garlic fries. These fries defeated me, I'm afraid. I thought I loved garlic, but these are not for the faint-hearted.
We were sitting high above home plate, but the distance didn't lesson my enjoyment. What an incredible stadium. Against the backdrop of the Bay, well I thought it was jaw-dropping. Admittedly, I haven't been to any other US sports stadia, but I think this one is special. It was a fan appreciation game and there was a huge crowd AND Tony Bennett. What more could you ask for? Amazing! I have to also say the people sitting around us were really friendly, to us and their fellow fans around them. They offered advice and some hilarious commentary about who they loved and some dubious trading decisions. Grant was patient in explaining the game and I was intrigued by paddle race and the other entertainment extras - Wild Thing played for a wild pitch, fans getting free gifts, upgrades, drives around the pitch. I can't believe I got to see a home run from a splash hit. How lucky were we? We were sad to leave, we had to go before the end because we were exhausted by the early start and busy day. But what a day.
Today, on the agenda we have a walk across the Golden Gate Bridge to Sausalito and the weather looks fab again. We are heeding advice and not venturing our too early today.
I have to add again, how helpful eveyone is the city. No one's impatient when we ask for directions. They are just lovely and friendly and so proud of where they live. Enough gushy Lisa...time to go exploring.
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Old Sep 28th, 2011, 08:15 AM
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So glad everyone is nice to you and you liked the Giants game! it's a very special place...my favorite in the whole world
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Old Sep 28th, 2011, 09:43 AM
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Sounds like you're having a fabulous introduction to our beautiful City by the Bay, and so glad you were able to get tickets to the Giants game so that you could experience that incredible vibe. Great trip report so far - looking forward to more.
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Old Sep 28th, 2011, 01:24 PM
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You got to see a splash hit (a rarity) AND an inside-the-park-homerun (an even bigger rarity!!). As for the park itself, I know I'm biased, but I've been in many, and this one IS special. Garlic fries - I can't even stand the smell

And imagine, you were seeing all that fan spirit even though it was the next to last game of the season, since the Giants were eliminated from the playoffs. Imagine what it was like last year, when we won the World Series!
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Old Sep 28th, 2011, 05:46 PM
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An epic journey to start today's adventure - walking across the Golden Gate Bridge.
We are based at Noe Valley and when we asked for directions from here at the Fisherman's Wharf tourist info point yesterday, we were told: "You couldn't have started from any further away."
Still, she provided detailed directions and we soldiered on. We got the J train to Civic Centre (oops Center) where we used the opportunity to see the impressive City Hall building. We walked for a little bit further to find a bus stop and get a 47 bus to Lombard Street and then walked six blocks to get get the 28 bus at Filmore Street to the bridge plaza.
The sun was beating down and it was a lovely walk across the bridge. How incredible to be finally on such an iconic structure. The bikes were on the other side of the bridge (except for the odd few) so we had plenty of space to walk, stop and pause and a million pictures (Grant). We'd hoped to walk on to Sausalito for lunch but work on the bridge meant it was closed near that end so we had to backtrack and wait almost an hour for, you guessed it, another bus (the No 10) to Sausalito.
We used our Fodors to pick a lunch spot and guess what?????? We saw Robin Williams coming out of Fish as we were going in. Well, Grant saw him first and had to tell me. I must have been in a world of my own. We aren't used to seeing celebs but we kept our cool, well there was a little silly grinning but that's fair enough I'd say.
Next some shoppping and wandering. The shopkeepers of Sausalito are very friendly and chatty and one said staying in Healdsburg during our wine country leg of the trip was a good move, which I thought was nice. They were all struggling with the heat, which I guess isn't too much fun if you're working.
We took the ferry back. It is so amazing. Our fellow passengers were feeling the heat too and we were a pretty lethargic bunch until we caught sight of the bridge and Alcatraz and everyone was sufficiently energised enough to go back into tourist mode and leap (or walk unsteadily) to the side of the boat and capture the moment on camera again.
Not sure what we are doing tomorrow. We are really keen to do another of the City Guides tours since the Chinatown one was so much fun.
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Old Sep 28th, 2011, 06:35 PM
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Loving your report!
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Old Sep 28th, 2011, 06:43 PM
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The Palace Hotel tour is a nice one to do. Also, the Street of Gold sounds good too.

Don't use up all the good weather, we arrive Friday and are hoping for some sun and mild temps!
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Old Sep 28th, 2011, 06:44 PM
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Also, City Hall does it's own free tour, we highly recommend that one too.
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Old Sep 28th, 2011, 07:11 PM
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Thanks Elnap29, we're so enjoying our holiday.
DebitNM, there's certainly no shortage of great tours. Hope you get the weather you've ordered and have an amazing vacation.
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Old Sep 29th, 2011, 07:52 PM
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We started today with an excellent breakfast at Chloe's in Noe Valley.
I had the scrambled eggs with avocado and cheese (divine), rosemary toast and home fries. Grant opted for scrambled eggs with home fries and a bagel. Delicious. And the coffee, again smooth and yummy. This trip has made me reawakened my interest in coffee.
Onwards to our first cable car ride. How amazing to be able to 'hang' from the car. UK health and safety rules would never allow this, but what a pity because it was exhilarating and left me a silly, pleased grin plastered on my face. Have to do that again.
A stroll around Fisherman's wharf, some Ghirardelli chocolate and a cab to Coit Tower.
I have to say we really loved the murals at the tower and it's important to note that seeing these costs not a penny, or cent. It's £7 to go to the top, however, and this was a bit of a disappointment. Yes, you do have panoramic views but there is glass and so photography nuts like my husband are left a little frustrated.
Next a good walk through North Beach and Chinatown back to Powell Street, a little more shopping and then back to Noe Valley.
Dinner involved a visit to Bacco. We love walking around 24th Street, with its great shops and restaurants. Bacco is a lovely, neighbourhood eatery, off 24th. Great ambiance, and welcoming to families, but still attractive to couples.
The fettucine with lamb was gorgeous and Grant loved his vermicelli and meatballs.
Tomorrow, hopefully a visit to the Mission. Any tips or must-sees please?
Thank you
Lisa
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Old Sep 29th, 2011, 08:04 PM
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Mission must-eats

Tartine Bakery
Delfina Pizza (the tricolor salade, roasted cauliflower, meatballs, all great, in addition to the pizza, which is my favorite in the city)
For many, BiRite Creamery ice cream

For your coffee fix, many people consider Philz (24th and Folsom) tops (I don't personally love it, but it's always packed)
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Old Sep 29th, 2011, 09:11 PM
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Sounds good, thanks.
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Old Sep 30th, 2011, 06:45 AM
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We just returned from 2 1/2 weeks in London

Glad my info was useful. Have breakfast or lunch at Savour on 24th st. Don't go there on a weekend, however - very crowded.

Our favorite restaurants in the Noe Valley:

- Pomelo - just a few blocks from you. Simple decor, eclectic food, great value. They don't take reservations.
- Incanto - upscale Itaian. Perhaps the most well known restaurant in the Noe Valley. Just 1 block from you. Check out the posted menu first to make sure there is something you like on it. Have a "wine flight"
- Firefly on 24th - about 1 block farther west than Bacco. Good fixed price menu before 7PM (I think).
- Fattoush. On Church. Middle eastern food. Look for the dish with "aged yogurt" which the menu says is a "customer favorite"
- Contigo on Castro, just off 24th. Fun place. Spanish tappas

Don't forget tomorrow's City Guides walking tour of the Noe Valley. It starts across the street from the Victorian house we lived in from April '75 to Dec '81.

Stu Dudley
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Old Sep 30th, 2011, 06:56 AM
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Wish I could take the Noe Valley tour, but I have conflicting plans. I wonder if it passes the Victorian house we lived in from '79-'86?
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Old Sep 30th, 2011, 07:07 AM
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Thanks Stu, we are so pleased we followed your advice and decided to stay in Noe Valley.
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