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Old May 13th, 2013, 11:22 AM
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Rocks and Roads in Utah

Just back from 10 wonderful days in southern Utah, where I spent 3 days in Zion and 2 days in Bryce, and capped them off with 4 days at the Red Mountain Resort near Snow Canyon State Park in St. George, Utah.

It was a perfect trip, and thanks to all who gave advice and suggestions. Car rental at the St. George Airport was a real bargain at $150 total for a week, and the drive up to Zion was easy and direct. My flight arrived at just before 6 p.m. and I was at the park by 8, just in time for a quiet sunset drive along the canyon road to the lodge, and a late supper.

First off, I'd say that I didn't have enough time in the two national parks. I could easily have spent two more days in Zion and one more in Bryce -- but I am the type who likes to do things leisurely and explore in depth and try to see everything. I also fell in love with Zion, and felt that I could have stayed there forever.

Although I'd been tempted to stay outside of Zion at a lodge with a swimming pool, I was glad I decided on the Zion Lodge. It was cozy and comfortable and in a beautiful setting deep in the canyon along the river. The lawn in late afternoon had an idyllic feel with folks young and old sitting on the lawn and enjoying ice cream after a day of hiking, and young children running around and playing. The ice cream was a real treat which I felt I'd more than earned each afternoon after a long day of hiking.

There were several deer on the grounds in the mornings and evenings and an occasional wild turkey. Weather was perfect, with cool mornings and evenings and warm afternoons, and beautiful, ever changing light on the surrounding peaks.

I left the Narrows and Angels Landing to the more adventurous but on my first morning I did hike up the West Rim to Scout's Lookout that leads to Angels Landing. It was strenuous because of the steep climb, but the paved path made it easy enough to handle. The views along the way were stunning and at several places a welcome cool breeze could be felt. Although it is described as not for people with height issues, the path was wide enough, albeit very open, and I never felt afraid. It was a great hike.

Towards the end of the hike I enjoyed soaking my aching feet in the river before heading on to the shuttle bus to the Temple of Sinewava, and the much easier Riverside Path. A pair of rock climbers could be seen making their way up the vertical walls along the path.

The shuttle buses were easy and convenient to use and after my Riverside walk and my ice cream at Zion Lodge I took one to the Visitors Center for some information and shopping - 2014 calendars and souvenir books and CD's. Back on the shuttle to the Court of the Patriarchs and a brief walk along the canyon road before heading back to the lodge for dinner.

That evening after dinner there was an interesting ranger-led program on astronomy at the lodge, after which we went outside to look at the skies. I confess I always have difficulty trying to identify heavenly bodies but that doesn't stop me from trying.

On my second day, I hiked the lower, middle and upper Emerald Pools and returned along the Kayenta trail. I found the hike to the pools, especially the upper, to be more challenging than the West Rim because of the rocky, uneven terrain. It was also much more crowded.

At one point two hikers passed closely by me, causing me to lose my balance and reach out for support - and unfortunately my hand landed on a cactus. What seemed to be hundreds of needles got stuck in my fingers, but happily, I was able to pick them out with my fingernails and they came out pretty easily. I met some nice people along the way who offered a helping hand here and there. On the way back I must have looked very wilted and a nice man poured some cold water on my neck and back, which felt great.

After that I again took the shuttle to the Temple of Sinewava, refreshed my feet and legs in the running water near the small waterfall in the river and then decided to walk back along the canyon road. It was one of my favorite walks, with no human voices and only the sounds of the birds chirping and the running river -- and the trees along the road provided plenty of shade.

I walked as far as Weeping Rock and took the short hike up to the rock. It was lovely to sit under the dripping water and enjoy the beautiful vista out in front of it. Afterwards, I continued my walk along the canyon road back to Zion Lodge. Again, I really loved this walk along the road.

I had breakfast and dinner at the lodge each day and enjoyed it. On my last night it was warm enough to sit outside on the terrace. The food was good and I thought, reasonably priced.

On to Bryce next....
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Old May 13th, 2013, 12:13 PM
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Glad to hear you had a great trip. Keep it up!
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Old May 13th, 2013, 01:40 PM
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I stayed at Red Mountain Resort exactly 1 year ago. What a great place to head for distressing and a great experience!

Sounds like a glorious trip, panecott.
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Old May 13th, 2013, 05:47 PM
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Deb, I read about Red Mountain Resort here on Fodor's a while back and made a mental note of it. Did you post about it? If so, maybe it was your post that did it!

I loved it! I loved the relaxing, laid back feel of the place and the friendly staff who are obviously very well trained to make all guests feel welcome.

It was so great to have the option of doing everything, or doing nothing! And the beautiful views everywhere you looked!

I'd never been to a spa before and didn't know what to expect, but it was great and I think I'd easily go back.
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Old May 13th, 2013, 05:58 PM
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I did post about it, a few times. I went alone; had never done that before. I loved the community table concept so that I didn't have to eat alone. The classes, the activities, workshops, the spa, all was just perfect. I am looking forward to going again.
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Old May 14th, 2013, 02:39 AM
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Great report!
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Old May 14th, 2013, 08:07 AM
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Thanks for the kind comments, emalloy, Deb and peterboy. Now the second and final installment.


I love driving out west. The roads are always so scenic and traffic free and what is for me a distasteful chore on the east coast is a relaxing part of a vacation in many of the western states.

The drive from Zion to Bryce was no exception. It started at the beautiful Mt. Carmel H’way that goes through Zion up to the tunnel that runs through the mountains – the first of its kind, I believe, in the U.S. when it was built. I had intended to hike the Canyon Overlook Trail at the end of the tunnel but having gotten a late start I reluctantly decided to skip it.

I took the scenic Route 89 and drove leisurely all the way, enjoying the scenery and happy to let other cars pass me by. I 89 led into Route 12, a scenic By-Way that leads to Bryce.

A few miles before arriving at Bryce, I was pleasantly surprised by the beautiful and unexpected Red Rock Canyon and adjacent Dixie National Forest. I had not heard about these areas but Red Rock Canyon is a state park with its own Visitors Center and hiking trails, and, as its name implies, beautiful rock formations. Arches were dug into the rock at two points to make way for the road.

I took a little hike and did some exploring before continuing on to Bryce and arriving at the Bryce Canyon Lodge around 3 p.m. I would recommend that anyone planning to visit this area allot at least a few hours to explore this beautiful place.

The weather was cloudy and overcast and there was a chill in the air but my cabin was warm and cozy and comfortable The gas fireplace didn’t throw off much heat but it made for a nice atmosphere.

After settling in, I took a walk along the rim and hiked a bit along the Fairyland Trail and then drove out to Rainbow Point at the end of the canyon and gradually made my way back stopping at each of the scenic viewpoints along the road. A few other people were doing the same thing and we started acknowledging one another at each stop as we all exited our cars and snapped the same photos. It had turned very cold and I was glad I had my fleece jacket and gloves.

The excursion took about three hours and I arrived back at the lodge in time for dinner. For some reason, Bryce Canyon Lodge does not take dinner reservations and there is usually a 30 minute wait. So anyone going during busy season should plan on arriving about a half hour before you’d like to eat.

It was pleasant enough sitting by the warm fire in the lobby while waiting to be seated. Because of the overcast skies, no one seemed interested in going to look for the sunset.

Although the dining room at Bryce did not have the same wonderful views as the one at Zion, it had a nicer atmosphere overall and I thought the food was a little better.

The following morning was very cold and they were expecting snow. I hiked the Queen’s Trail (something like that) that started at the rim at Sunset Point and consisted of a series of steep switchbacks going all the way down into the canyon.

On the way down I saw a big cloud of dust in the distance and a fellow hiker said she thought she’d seen some falling rock, which caused it. The dust dissipated after a few minutes so that must have been what happened, and I hoped to myself that no rocks along my trail decided to fall.

The adjoining Navajo Loop was closed so most hikers either did the entire Queen’s loop, or went about half way and took the same route back, which is what I did. Some hikers I met said the ascent on the loop was very steep but I don’t know how it compared to the route back that I took, which was steep and strenuous.

Bryce Canyon is uniquely beautiful with its distinctive rock formations caused by the wind and rain, and although it was possible to hike down into the canyon, overall I always had the feeling of being an observer from the rim, unlike Zion where you are in the canyon and almost feel like part of the mountains that surround you.

Because it had started to rain in early afternoon, I decided to drive further along Scenic By Way 12 to Escalante. The weather cleared along the way and the drive through the Grand Staircase National Monument and more of the Dixie National Forest was lovely. I stopped at the Escalante State Park, which is pleasantly situated along a small reservoir, and took a 1 mile hike along the petrified wood trail, before driving a few more miles past the town and then heading back.

Back at the lodge it was clear that it had snowed as there were patches of snow on the cabin rooftops, altho’ none of it stuck to the ground. It was again cold and cloudy but I did venture to Inspiration Point after dinner, altho’ there was not much of a sunset to be seen.

After two nights at Bryce, I headed back in the same direction from which I’d come, for the third leg of my trip, a visit to the Red Mountain Resort and Spa in St. George.

As I drove back through Zion I was overcome with the feeling of not wanting to leave so I spent the entire day there, visiting the museum, riding the shuttle, and hiking the Par’uu Trail near the Visitors Center. I arrived at the Red Mountain Resort as the sun was setting, and enjoyed a relaxing dinner before turning in.

The RMR&S is a wonderful place, set, as its name implies, amid red mountains and is adjacent to Snow Canyon State Park –another unsung gem like the Red Rock Canyon near Bryce. It was my first visit to a spa and I didn’t know what to expect, but fortunately, altho’ spa services are offered, the emphasis was really on fitness and relaxation, and not on hedonism.

The resort is entirely self contained and all meals and most activities are included in the reasonable price. An abundance of fitness classes is offered daily, plus morning guided hikes of varying levels of difficulty in Snow Canyon.

Guests could do as much or as little as they wanted to and there was no pressure from anyone. Also, although the resort was full, other guests were rarely seen - probably b/c there were so many different things to do all day long - and it always had the feeling of quiet and relaxation. There are large outdoor and indoor pools that were also never crowded. I did the hikes each morning, then did 2 - 4 classes each day, plus laps in the pool and enjoyed every minute.

There was a large dining room with a community table for single visitors who chose to sit there, but I preferred to sit outside on the patio at dinner and enjoy the surrounding scenery and the sunsets. RMR&S was a perfect end to a perfect vacation.

Southern Utah is a beautiful area and I’d highly recommend a visit there.
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Old May 14th, 2013, 04:15 PM
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Thanks for the great trip report, Panecott. What a wonderful trip!
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Old May 14th, 2013, 06:36 PM
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Thanks, sharondi. I'm looking forward to exploring more of Utah in the future.
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Old May 17th, 2013, 07:44 PM
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Hi panecott,

I remember when you were planning this visit and I'm so glad you had a good time! People always want to come back to Utah, there is so much to do and see. Don't forget northern Utah too!

Dayle
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Old May 18th, 2013, 09:20 AM
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I didn't see when you posted the first part but it's great that you had such a good time.

I when I first visited Bryce I also stop for a while at Red Rock Canyon. Because of that I got there in the dark and didn't see the paved walkway about 10 yards from my car. I carried my stuff over some muddy ground. The next morning I saw the paved walkway.

Since you walked along the road in Zion, did you know about Menu Falls? Nobody ever knew about it and it has about 5-6 visitors a day. It has a built, wooden viewing structure. It got its name because that view used to be on the lodge restaurant menu.

In Bryce, that hike you went on starting at Sunset Point is Navajo Loop. Since you went down the switchbacks you look the right hand side going down and probably went thru the area that's had some rock falls. Then it meets up with Queens Garden and up to Sunrise Point.

Good to see that you enjoyed some of the Escalent area. Most people think there are national parks and nothing in between.

Great trip report!!!! Every time I read one I want to go back.
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Old May 18th, 2013, 12:18 PM
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Thanks, Dayle. I will definitely go back to Utah!

And thanks, Myer, for the information on the hike. At the bottom of the long trail with the switchbacks, there's a little resting spot with log benches, and then the trail veers off to the left and the right.

When facing in the same downhill direction, the trail on the right was closed and that was labeled the Navaho loop. There was also a sign at the top saying it was closed. So I'm guessing that was just a part of the NL trail that was closed? And was Queen's Garden the flat, foresty trail off in the other direction? I went about halfway along that before turning back. I'm sorry I didn't just continue and do the whole loop. Next time.

And yes, I did see the Menu Falls along the canyon road and climbed up the boardwalk to explore. I hadn't seen it mentioned anywhere -- even the shuttle drivers didn't mention it, so it was a little bit of serendipity and I love little discoveries like that.
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Old May 18th, 2013, 05:26 PM
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I learned about Menu Falls from one of the shuttle drivers. I was on my way up. So on the return I asked the driver (not the same one) to drop me off and after going to the falls I walked back down.

I'll bet you were the only person to see Menu Falls during the time you were there. I didn't like how they built the viewing stand as it's tough to get a good picture without getting the structure in.

NL
When you came down from Sunset point there are one or two minor switchbacks. If you go down on the right side you have another bunch of switchbacks. Near the bottom is where they've had a few rock slides and I'm not sure of its current status.

If you had taken the left trail going down you'd get to those benches down at the bottom. Along the way you pas Twin Arches (or is it Bridges).

Both of these trails down are Navajo Loop. Some people used to go down one side and then "loop" back up the other.

Down at the bottom where the benches are you have a choice: go back up where you came from, loop back up, cut across the canyon and do Peek-a-Boo trail (I did that my second day) or continue on the flat part that becomes Queens Garden and then back up to Sunrise Point.

They always tell you to take Navajo Loop down and Queens Garden back up as NL is stepper than QG.

It's a nice 1/2 mile walk along the rim back from Sunrise Pt to Sunset Pt to get your car.

I took my daughter to SW Utah a couple of years ago. We spent the first day in Escalente (Devil's Garden, Lower Calf Creek Falls and Willis Creek slot canyon), the second day in Bryce (sunrise at Bryce Point, hiked NL and QG and then went to Cedar Breaks and ended in Zion) and the third day in Zion where we hiked to Scouts Lookout and Riverside Walk. We didn't find the elevation a problem (and we live at zero elevation) as we had been in Bryce the day before and that's 4,000ft higher.

You had a great trip!!!!

Photos?
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Old May 19th, 2013, 02:27 PM
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Ok, I think I'm finally clear on the Navajo Loop. I did take the trail on the left side and passed the Two Bridges in the little cove off to the left. I'm pretty sure that's what it was called. Maybe it was "twin" but it was definitely "bridges".

The loop off to the right was closed and there were signs near the top and at the bottom where the benches are that it was closed b/c of falling rock. The sign also said "Wall Street", so maybe there's another little trail in that direction?

Anyway, I met some hikers coming from the opposite direction and they said the ascent to Sunrise Point was steep and strenuous, so I backtracked up the way I'd come down. Not knowing anything more about those hikers it was stupid of me to just listen and not go see for myself, and it sounds like the loop to Sunrise Point would have been easier. Oh well, c'est la vie.

I will try to post some pictures eventually, but it might take a while. I took about 1700 and just downloaded them to my computer today.

And yes, it was a wonderful trip. I think I love visiting the National Parks more than anything now.
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Old May 19th, 2013, 04:25 PM
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Ok. I think we've got your time in Bryce figured out. That area down the right side seems to suffer from rock slides periodically and gets closed. Wall Street is in that part.

Yes, it is less steep going up Queens Garden to Sunrise Point than back up Navajo Loop to Sunset Pt. Or so they claim. 8,000 ft of elevation is tough any way you look at it.

My first time in Bryce in 2007 the right side was closed due to a rock slide. I think some people got hurt. I hiked part way down the many switchbacks on the right side then back up. Some people actually went down to the bottom and climbed over the rocks at the closed part.

My second time there was in 2008 and I think it was open. I was there with a friend and it snowed and was in the mid-thirties in mid-May. We hiked down the right side and back up the left side. It wasn't too windy down there but was near the top.

I was there again with my daughter in 2010 and it was open. We hiked down the right side, up the left side a until those bridges, then back down and onto Queens Garden and up to Sunrise Point. We rested at the top on a bench for a while, walked to Sunset Point to get our car and left. We slept over in Bryce the night before and went to Bryce Point for a spectacular sunrise.

The 2010 trip with my daughter was a jam packed 3 days (plus travel). She's married with a then 3 1/2 year old and tries to keep time away to a minimum.

We were in Glacier NP in Mt this past August for 3 1/2 days. Going back for a week this summer with a friend.

Awaiting "some" of your many photos.
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Old May 19th, 2013, 05:07 PM
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LOL! Don't worry, I won't post them all.

Look forward to hearing about your return trip to Glacier. It's so beautiful there.
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Old May 19th, 2013, 05:48 PM
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I was just there as well.

The recommended routing was to park at Sunset Point, walk along the rim to Sunrise Point, descend via Queens Garden and return via Navajo Loop (but not the Wall Street option). You could walk partway in toward Wall Street but the top half was blocked off.

The Winter version of the park newspaper advises that "the Wall Street section of the Navajo Loop is closed during winter and spring due to dangerous conditions created by ice and/or falling rocks."

A met a lot of people coming down Navajo and they did not know what to do. Half of them seemed to be lost. Some of them turned around and went back up the way they came.
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Old May 20th, 2013, 07:10 AM
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mlgb,
I think you got it reversed. The NPS describes this hike in both directions and favors neither.

Most descriptions I've read recommend going down Navajo Loop from Sunset Point and back up Queens Garden to Suntise point. The reason they have you go in that direction is that Navajo Loop down is steeper than Queens Garden up.

Since the Wall Street side of Navajo Loop is closed, there's no choice about which side of the loop you take. You've got to take the Twin Bridges side.

That is, coming down it would be the left side or going up it would be the right side.

Any people coming down Navajo Loop must have come down the Twin bridges side. If they turned and went back up it must have been because they didn't know that it connects to Queens Garden.
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Old May 20th, 2013, 09:38 AM
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No Myer, I did not get anything reversed. The clockwise route that I described was being recommended for the winter-late spring season when it seems both myself and panecott were visiting. They were even broadcasting the route on the park radio.

There was a tunnel/funnel where all of the paths came together and a lot of people were befuddled. I gather most do not read maps (since there was one in the free park newspaper) nor listen to the radio.

If you would like to see for yourself, you can still look at the Winter/Spring version of the HooDoo. The closed off portion of Wall Street is shown in red.

Note the "clockwise version recommended" on p.5
http://www.nps.gov/brca/parknews/upl...odoo_web-2.pdf
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Old May 20th, 2013, 10:08 AM
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Unfortunately for me, I didn't read or hear any of the recommendations for the hike. I just saw the entrance at Sunset Point and decided to check it out.

Whichever way was recommended, I'm sorry I did not do the entire loop, instead of backtracking back up Navaho. Well, a good excuse to go back.

In fact, as it turned out, just as I got to the top it started raining. The rain later turned to snow but I was on my way to Escalante by then, where the weather was nicer.
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