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Portland Home Exchange - Two Weeks

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Old Sep 19th, 2010, 04:50 PM
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Portland Home Exchange - Two Weeks

This is our 19th home exchange, our first in Portland, Oregon. We arrived here about 3 days ago, driving 16 or so hours from Southern California. We broke the trip into three days, driving Route 5, a fairly tedious route for the first 6 hours or so, breaking the first night in Patterson, and the second evening in Ashland, staying both nights at Best Westerns.

The Patterson Best Western was pretty dismal. The sheets felt dirty and the bath tub was definitely grimy. I complained to the management and they sent us fresh sheets which WE changed and we used rubber flip flops in the shower. The next morning, we were offered a 10% discount for our inconvenience after we reminded them about the dirty sheets, when I told them that we changed the sheets, they asked us politely what we thought was a decent discount and we accepted $30 off on the $80 plus tax room. It felt fair to us.

The next night we stayed at another BW in Ashland; I believe it was $120 inc tax, but the room was immaculate. We had a nice dinner at the Dragon Fly in town. It's a pretty little town with lots of tourists because of the Shakespeare festivals, though I also saw that Pride and Prejudice was also being performed, so it's not strictly the Bard.

We arrived in Portland around 5 or so, having made a mistake on programing our GPS, though we did not go very far out of our way.

to be continued. . .
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Old Sep 19th, 2010, 05:21 PM
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Our home exchange is in the Northwest part of the city, up in the hills. I feel as if I am in a National Forest. There are beautiful tall trees everywhere, some firs, some deciduous and changing colors.The Exchangers' town house is attractively furnished with lovely objects from their travels. We are very comfortably situated. At night in the high cathedral ceiling bedroom, there is a large trapezoid shaped window where I can see the tops of the trees in the moonlight. It is quite wonderful. Being in the forest without a tent!

Since we are in a city that is very transit oriented, we plan to use our car only for excursions outside the city, that is, if we can draw ourselves away from it, and for food shopping or for bus trips that are too long or involve too many transfers.

On our first day, we took the bus down to Pioneer Square, went to the Trimet office and bought ourselves two 2-week passes for around $44 each. Now, we can flash the pass, board the bus and not fumble for change. The timing is perfect,the pass iexpires the day we leave Portland.

Our first day was spent exploring downtown and Powell's Bookstore. Someone remarked on this board that Powell's can be skipped, but there were several dissenters. I have to agree with the dissenters; Powell's is worth the time. The selection is incredible; you can find books from many minor publishing houses that are probaly not at B&N or Borders , thus coming across so many new titles and ideas. The only problem is that it's not in my home city and I can't visit it over and over again. I am told it is the largest independent bookstore in the US; any book lover would want to see it thrive. Independents are few and far between nowadays. No thought of the kindle while there.

Later, we walked into one of the food cart pods, trying out the Big Bowl which my husband N loved. I shared it with him. It cost $5.50 and contained among other things that I probably forgot, avocado, brown rice, cheese, cilantro, black beans, hot sauce, tomatoes , sour cream.

We browsed the stores, took the bus back to Food Front, did some shopping and ended our first day in Portland.

Although, I loved our recent trip to Hamburg last summer, it was great to on home turf where we could speak English, ask questions. BTW, Portlanders are incredibly friendly and pleasant; one never gets the feeling that "time is money" here as in LA.

More to come. . .
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Old Sep 19th, 2010, 05:49 PM
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Glad you are enjoying your time here. Yes, the NW part of downtown is very nice! Your location is ideal, IMO. You are not far from a great urban winery too, if that interests you. Grochau Cellars, which is across from a good brewery as well.

I had to giggle about Patterson. Years ago we had car trouble there and were stranded. Not good memories, lol.

You arrived at the same time as the rain Although it's been much muggier than normal.
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Old Sep 19th, 2010, 06:19 PM
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Thanks, mms. We had planned on visiting the Rose Garden today at Washington Park, but decided to forgo it, because of the threat of thunderstorms. As you know, it never happened. It was actually a pretty beautiful day. BTW, do you know if there is parking at Washington Park; I can't figure it out from the website. The bus route requires a lot of walking and takes forever, so we thought we might make an exception and drive there. I understand 9/21st is the last time this year to do a guided tour. (at 1:00 pm for those interested.)

Yesterday, we decided to visit the Saturday Market. It is a very crowded, festive, vibrant market with lots of crafts, food stands, and even a few vegetables for sale. It took us about 30 minutes (one transfer) to get there. Lots of the crafts are 60s style tie dyed shirts, pottery, and the like. Lots of jewelry, too. I bought some potato pancakes with apple sauce and sour cream for $5.50 at the Polish cart. Sorry, to say, that though the serving was generous, 4 larges latkes, and made to order, I was not impressed. Maybe, it's because I just returned from Germany where Potatoes are king.

Later, we walked down 23rd street in the Alphabet District, so named because the streets are in alphabetical order. Lots of activity there, too with some interesting restaurant and coffee shops. (A couple names we remembered from our travel guides and plan to go back and try them.) The restaurants were crowded with people; lots of outdoor cafe like seating, too. We wandered into a kitchen shop, bought some bouchons and some kitchen gadgets. I suppose Portland is not a very tourist oriented town, unlike other places since I have not seen postcards everywhere I go. Not complaining!
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Old Sep 19th, 2010, 06:34 PM
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Today, we returned to the Alphabet district. N wanted to try Papa Haydn for lunch, but when we arrived we found it to be a brunch menu, all breakfast items. It was crowded and looked good, but since we had eaten breakfast at home, neither of us wanted to repeat the experience. We wandered 21st and 23rd street for a while; N began to be quite hungry and to stave off his hunger pangs we bought a good bagel at Portland Bagel Co. It had just come out of the oven, so fresh itt did not have time to develop its hard crust. Still very good. There are several bagel places on 23rd and we will need to try them all!

Across the street from the Portland Bagel Co at 23rd and Gilsan is Pizzacato. For around $17 including a tip, we shared a 10" basil and tomato thin crusted pizza and a very generous salad. It was very good. Later, I visited Mio Gelato near 23rd and Lovejoy for a wonderful chocolate gelato. It really tasted like those I have had in Europe. What a decadent day.

It was a slow casual day. Very pleasurable. We had the same bus driver back home and he remembered us when we entered and said hello. First ones on the bus that morning and the last ones off!
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Old Sep 20th, 2010, 04:35 AM
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I love visiting Portland and am enjoying your report!
Don't forget to visit the Pearl District and Jamison Park.
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Old Sep 20th, 2010, 05:06 AM
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Enjoying this too and very timely for me, we head out to Portland in a couple of weeks for a 4 night stay so your observations are being duly noted!
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Old Sep 20th, 2010, 06:26 AM
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annetti--If you park at the Japanese Gardens, it is an easy walk to the Rose Gardens. Definitely do both, BTW. Yes, yesterday cleared up quite a bit. Still waiting for the mugginess to go away though, lol.
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Old Sep 20th, 2010, 10:08 AM
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Thank you, nanabee and owlwoman. I had forgotten to mention that we walked around the Pearl District when we visited Powell's Bookstore.



Owlwoman, if you will be in Portland on the first Thursday of the month, the galleries in the Pearl District do something special and there's lots of activity on the street, we unfortunately will not be here then.

Thank you, mms, for answering my question. I double checked the Rose Garden's guided tour for Mon and for once it helped to be obsessive, bec there are no tours today; tomorrow is the last one for the year. I hope we make it.

We just missed our bus by two minutes. If you carry your cell phone, you can dial trimet and punch in the bus stop's ID# which is posted and find out when the next bus is coming. Pretty nifty.

Information on Portland's food cart scene can be found at foodcartsportland.com Our home exchangers describe them as a local phenomena.
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Old Sep 20th, 2010, 05:30 PM
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After having missed the earlier bus, we caught an 11:20 bus to Pioneer Center, where we visited the Pioneer Courthouse across the street. Once you go through security, similar to the airport, though there's no need to remove your shoes,and show photo identity; you pretty much have free rein of the 4 floors. You are permitted to roam at will, read the information on the walls, admire the dark ash woodwork and and beautiful rooms and pictures.

The building is described in one brochure as Italianate and in the courthouse video as Greek Revival. Both agree, however, it is constructed of sandstone. It is a pretty building, beautifully restored, quiet, and a pleasure to walk through. We were the only tourists, and on most of our visit saw only one or two employees.

We were told on one travel blog to ask about the Courthouse video (we saw no mention of a video anywhere in the bldg); we asked the docents at the front door who set it up for us; it is well worth it.

The views from the top of the bldg are 360 degrees and you can see how the city has changed comparing the old time photos on the walls from all angles. If you like architecture, interesting rooms and a bit of history thrown in, then the courthouse is worth an hour of your time. Of course, you can look in for 5 minutes, too, since it's all free.

We walked over to the Visitors' Center to buy some postcards.
They're not easy to find and on the way over we were waylaid by some more food carts. We had determined to eat a proper restaurant meal today, but Verde Cocina, a food cart on Pioneer Square snagged my attention. A lot of the food carts display their dishes, cook up their specialities and line them up to tempt you. I fell for the Gringas with Mole sauce for $8.00 Essentially, two enchillados filled with tons of beans and vegetables and covered with a dark chocolate (bitter) sauce. Very good.

Portlanders seem to love their food carts, everyone from suits, to students, to office workers appear to have their favorites. One man we met told us that his favorite was a Thai place, but warned us they sold out early; he was right, N missed eating there by 15 minutes. Instead, he had his Big Bowl again.

While eating at one one of the small tables set up near the food carts, we fell into a long conversation with a young man from Little Rock. He was roaming the country. Midway through our conversation, he explained he had to call his ex girlfriend, a foodie, and tell her about his food cart experience. The food is definitely innovative, and tasty.

Our day seemed to wander away from us, typical of the way we travel, very slowly. It was cold and overcast. We took a bus to NW 23rd and Thurman and had some pastry, tea, and hot chocolate at The Dragonfly Coffee House at 2387 Turman Ave. Lots of couches and chairs, more like a cozy living room, where we relaxed for an hour or so, then did some light grocery shopping and caught a bus home.

Minor observation: If you are from California (10 1/4% restaurant tax) you will appreciate that eating out in Portland feels like a 10% discount everytime you pay your bill, since there is NO restaurant tax here.

Another minor reservation: In Oregon, it is state law that someone fills your gasoline tank at a service station. I had forgotten what a pleasure that can be.
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Old Sep 21st, 2010, 08:05 PM
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Today was a bright and sunny autumn day, perfect for visiting the Rose Garden at Washington Park. Trimet's bus routing looked a bit complicated , especially when we needed to be there by 11:30am, early for these late risers, so we relented and drove. Thanks to our GPS, we were able to find the parking lot fairly easily. I telephoned the Rose Garden Store beforehand (503.227.7033) to check that a tour was on the books for the day.

The web site said that today was the last docent tour for the year, but when I queried the docents, they knew nothing about the season ending. Perhaps, if you are interested in a tour, call first. You may find yourself in luck.

There were two docents conducting the free one hour tour for the six people including us. The tour members were: one local, with a friend from Indiana, two Sacramento people and the two of us from So Calif. One man was an enthusiastic rose gardener and then there were us who know only that roses are pretty, may have thorns and sometimes have a pretty fragrance. However, the docents were low keyed and able to keep us all interested, even my husband who had not been keen on coming. It was a pleasant way to spend an hr, and afterward we wandered the gardens.There were a fair amount of visitors, but in no way would one call the gardens crowded.

When entering the park, we noted a marker for a Holocaust Memorial so with a small map and some help from the clerk from the Rose Shop, we were directed to the memorial, a five minute walk away. It is beautifully done, and as usual always deeply moving. The memorial gives a brief history of the Holocaust, mentioning various victims of the Nazis, Jews, Gays, Romas, Disabled, Political dissenters, etc. As you approach the memorial there are facsimiles of a suitcase, a doll, a teddy bear thrown on the ground. On the wall there are various phrases quoted from survivors. One quote caught my eye. I copied it down:

All of us children were crying for our parents. A guard came over to us and yelled,"Stop your whining, see that chimney, see that smoke, that stench in the air? That's your parents."

We saw a number of people stop and walk quietly through the site. I remembered the last time, we saw a similar memorial. It had been in a shopping mall in Altona, in Hamburg, just last month. There were probably several hundred people passing by the Altona site when we stopped to view it, but none stopped. Perhaps, a Holocaust Memorial is nothing unusual in Germany, here in Oregon I had not anticipated seeing one. I believe it had been erected by the survivors in memory of their family members that had been murdered. There is an enormous list of names on the back of the monument, but as we know a minute percentage of those actually killed.
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Old Sep 21st, 2010, 08:11 PM
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After our visit to the Rose Gardens, we returned our car, walked down the hill, admiring all the beautiful trees and shrubbery in our neighborhood and began the search for lunch. Not much choice for 4:00. We settled on pizza again, but were not so lucky this time round. The pizza was delivered tepid. We walked over to Dragon Fly for some tea and pastry, bought some bread at the French Pastry shop next door and caught a bus up the hill. It was a lovely day, just the way we like to tour, slow and easy. Portland is having no trouble capturing our fancy. It is a wonderful place to visit and no doubt, a terrific place to live.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2010, 05:24 PM
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Today we decided to explore a neighborhood; one of our books suggested Hollywood. Yes, Hollywood, Portland. We should have heeded our gut feelings that besides the historic theater, we would not find much of interest. N wanted to eat first, so we stopped at the food cart pod at 10th and Alder. Two days ago, we met a guy who said the very best food cart meal as a chicken and rice Thai dish. We had missed it twice, bec it sold out early. Today, N was in luck, and though the line was long, he waited and managed to get served. He held on to his wrapped meal, while I waited for what turned out to be a mediocre burrito. By the time we sat down in O'Brien Park (about a block or so away), N's food was not very warm. He said it was good, but not worth the wait.

We, then bused over to Hollywood to see the historic Hollywood Theater. Built in 1927 (first as a silent movie theater), it is very imposing with its enormous Byzantine or is it Spanish Revival or maybe something else front? It almost looks like a church. There is a strong preservation movement associated with the theater and is still being used. We strolled down a few streets, but didn't see too much of interest, lots of antique/thrift shops.

We boarded the bus again to 23rd and Flanders, visited the local Trader Joe's and ended the late afternoon in a coffee shop, the Dragon Fly, again.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2010, 07:03 PM
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I'm enjoying your report! Are you going to take the bus over to Hawthorne and walk that very interesting area? It is quite different from nw side of the river. Enjoy! CJ
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Old Sep 22nd, 2010, 07:05 PM
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Le Cordon Bleu, College of Culinary Arts is right across the street from Jakes at 600 SW 10th Ave. Tel no. 503 294 9770. They do a five course lunch for $14.95 and a three course for $10.95 The five course lunch includes soup, appetizer, salad, main dish, and dessert plus coffee or tea or soft drink. White table cloths and all. I'm trying to convince my husband to try it, but he is not fond of traditional French cooking. Anyone out there familiar with it? I'd love to know more.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2010, 07:08 PM
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Thank you, Carol Jean for the idea. Where should we get off in Hawthorne, so I can plug the street or landmark into Trimet?
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Old Sep 22nd, 2010, 07:10 PM
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If you get a chance, check out some of the movie theatres in NW Portland. The Cinema 21 on NW 21st is from the 1920s also but not nearly as grand or quite as large as the Hollywood Theatre. Cinema 21 is an art house theatre with only one screen (and a balcony). Right now they're showing an Israeli film "Lebanon" (which I hope to see there tonight). There's also the McMenamins Mission Theatre on NW Glisan where they show 2nd-run films for $3 and let you buy alcohol and food.

I hope you get to check out North Portland as well. Take a bus out to St. Johns and walk around. Stroll down Cathedral Park and check out the amazing St. Johns Bridge. Lots of other little gems to see here - hit me up if you have questions. There are some other really nice neighborhoods to explore like Irvington (and sample the shops on NE Broadway) and Laurelhurst (Laurelhurst park is pretty nice). Mt. Tabor park is just to the east of there - the #15 bus (well, #15 buses) takes you from NW Portland through downtown across the river and directly up to Mt. Tabor.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2010, 07:16 PM
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You can actually take the #15 to near Hawthorne as well (as #15 runs through NW Portland - sometimes it's easier). The #15 goes east on Belmont. I'd get off at 30th Ave and make a right (walk south) on 30th about 1/2 mile to Hawthorne. From 30th up to about 39th is pretty interesting on Hawthorne. (Another cool movie theatre, the McMenamins Bagdad (theatre pub like the Mission), at 37th and Hawthorne, and another branch of Powell's across the street.) There are a few things of interest on Belmont as well (though not nearly as trendy) if you want to swing back and walk a different way. You can always take the #14 directly up/down Hawthorne Blvd to/from downtown if that turns out to be more convenient.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2010, 07:28 PM
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Thanks, Andrew. I'm going to run some of these ideas past N.
We've been riding the 15 bus almost everyday!!
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Old Sep 22nd, 2010, 09:44 PM
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I forgot to mention: if you will be cruising out to the Hawthorne District anyway, you may wish to detour further west on Hawthorne between SE 12th and SE 20th. South of there there's a really unique little neighborhood called Ladd's Addition. It's laid out not in a rectangular grid but in an X with four little rose gardens one on each side and a big circle garden in the middle. (Check it out on a Google map.) And some of the houses are pretty nice too. Most of the neighborhood is residential but there's a little dessert place/coffee shop on the circle called Palio that makes for a nice stop.
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