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Trip Report Part Three of an 18 Day RV trip - Seward

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Tuesday, August 19 (Day 10) – We arrived in Seward around 1pm. We did not make an RV Park reservation since everyone on the Internet said to go stay at the City operated Park on the Waterfront, and their website said that they do not take reservations. There are a huge number of “dry” spaces, but not a lot of spaces with water and electric hookups. However, we found a really nice one at the North end of the park. After you claim your space you go to a meter and pay for the number of days you want. One small problem ... once we hooked up the electricity and got settled in, we booted up our laptops and found out that there is no WiFi. This is was not a problem since we can get e-mail on our cell phones, however it is clear that other “non-novice” RV’ers were better prepared than us ...

We made a quick lunch and started walking towards the boat harbor. The weather was sunny and warm, a beautiful day. We thought about taking a tour tomorrow, but the tour Pat had in mind was the Fox Island Dinner Cruise. You cruise 15 miles from the harbor to Fox Island, have a salmon and roast beef buffet dinner, then come back to Seward Harbor. However, we were told that because it is so close to the end of the tourist season (kids here are back in school) so many of their tour guides had already left for the season this tour is no longer available. We looked at the other tours, most were either an all-day/half-day tour to see the glacier, or an all day halibut/silver salmon fishing charter. Neither really interested us. We were here 17 years ago, did a couple of the glacier/Prince William Sound tours, and have no desire to do another one this time. Fishing tour? Rick doesn’t eat cooked fish (sushi is ok!) and he could see no reason to kill the poor creature for no good reason.

We had lots of fun though watching the fisherman come in with their catches. The biggest halibut we saw was a 60 pounder caught by a lady from Finland. One group of four men caught over 40 halibut/silver salmon/rock fish. They paid $308/each to go on the charter – the price includes fileting and freeze dry, but they have to pay over $600 to ship the catch home. Very expensive fish if you are talking about only the food value ... but they claim that the real value is in the entertainment...the fish do not appear impressed with that view!
There is an Espresso shop at the harbor, and the sign on the door says they will be open at 5pm. A hot cup of coffee sounded good as the weather is getting chilly. A little after 5 (things run here on Alaska time (which is kind of like “island time” in Hawaii), a young girl employee shows up to open the store, but has forgotten her keys. So she takes a piece of from a light from above the door wire and proceeds to jimmy the window open to crawl in. The lady from the store next door knows her, so she is legit. We waited around a bit to see the result but this was taking too long, so we finally gave up. We went back to our RV and had a very simple dinner and called it the night. We could see a few salmon spawning in the river on the walk back.

Wednesday, August 20 (Day 11) – Another beautiful day, the temperature was in the high 50’s. We went to the Museum/Library, a short walk from our site where we watched a 20 minute film about the 1964 9.2 Great Alaskan Earthquake (aka Good Friday Earthquake) and the resulting tsunami. The quake lasted four minutes and 38 seconds, and was the second strongest earthquake in recorded history. The entire waterfront and most of the town was destroyed when the water in Resurrection Bay was sucked out, and came back as a 100+ mph tsunami. Today’s, Seward appears very industrious and prosperous.

The City’s Waterfront camp ground is very centrally located, with a short walk to the dock and short walk to the town center. There is a beautiful children’s playground, a skateboard park, and a nice community building with many picnic tables and two large bbq in the middle. The only thing I don’t like about the camp ground is that the shower floor is cement and not tiled, so we made use of our RV’s internal shower ... worked great!
We had lunch at bar/lounge called Thorns...the sign says they have the best halibut in town. It was 12:30pm when we walked past, so we went in and had the “bucket of butts”. This is the first time we had halibut...the fish didn’t taste fishy, meat not super firm, but not mushy. Rick was in heaven, we found a fudge factory. Needless to say, we bought some fudge.

We walked over to the dock again around 5:30pm, to watch the people came in with their catch. Yesterday, I was watching the worker fileting the fish, and they threw away all the heads. I said to myself: “What a waste, the heads made excellent stew and soup with some tofu, vegetables, and noodles”. Today, there was a Filipino lady with two of her sons, each with a couple of large coolers, they asked the workers to give them the heads. Each cooler must have accommodated about 30 to 40 heads...that is enough to feed a family of four through the winter.

For dinner we ate at the Rickshaw food truck, we had spicy beef with vegetable and sweet and spicy chicken wings, both were excellent. The owner, Phu, is a young Chinese fellow, he goes to Beijing to teach tennis in the winter. Rickshaw has Sushi Thursday with all the local fresh catches, we will stop by to have sushi before heading out to Homer.
Saw a few sea otters on our way back to the RV.

Thursday, August 21 (Day 12) – We went to Rickshaw food truck at 11am for the sushi and were very disappointed. The spicy salmon roll was not spicy at all, the Fantasia roll (rock fish, salmon, tuna, and roes) was better, but the rice in both rolls were too soft and too sticky. I think they put too much water while cooking the rice. We were on the road to Homer by noon. It was a pretty 3 1/2 hour drive. We saw another couple of moose about 20 miles outside of Homer, but they didn’t stop to let us take pictures

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