Our April Trip in Utah
May 16th, 2009, 09:01 PM
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Our April Trip in Utah
April 15 flew Southwest from Birmingham to Salt Lake City with a really good rate plus no charges for 2 pcs. of checked luggage! Best deal we could find for a rental SUV was with Advantage. A little disorganization at 11PM with the Jeep Cherokee which we had been assigned not having proper keys, but we were given a Chrysler Aspen which proved to be a very good deal. For the $200 savings over all the other car rental agencies, we were very happy for the week. Took the advice from this board and stayed 2 nights at the Little America Hotel. It was everything this board had claimed. I am convinced this board's advice for hotels is the only way to choose a room.
April 16 We ate brunch at Lamb's Grill before heading out to Temple Square. Nice restaurant, good service and good omelets. It was cold and blustery with a bit of snow left on the ground from the late snow flurry the day before, but we did brave the elements to enjoy the tulips and other spring flowers bravely popping their little heads up to look for Springtime. The choir was not practicing for the public that Thursday evening, although, normally they do allow the public for Thursday PM practices. However, there are free noon Organ recitals which last an hour and we were fortunate enough to make that one. It did conflict w/ a 2 hour garden tour of the grounds, but with the weather, I think we made the best choice. Also toured the Beehive house, home of
Brigham Young where two young female missionaries were our tour guides. They were most informative and pleasant for the relaxed tour of a very historic home. The weather worsened and while we could have explored more of the square and just hung out to enjoy the wonderful landscaping and fountains, we opted for a ride about SLC to take in the city. An old friend who is a resident of SLC took us to dinner that evening at a Thai restaurant, Sawadee, which was excellent.
April 17 we began our journey to Torrey. I had read about a Tulip Festival at Thanksgiving Point Gardens, http://www.thanksgivingpoint.org, just south of Salt Lake which sounded like something a new Master Gardener would find interesting. Once again, it was cold and blustery, but we wrapped warmly and managed to catch an afternoon tour of the 55 acre botanical gardens with another informative tour guide. We did not have time to explore the Dinosaur museum or the children's farm and gardens, but did grab lunch in the Trellis Cafe. The homemade tomato soup and Napa Chicken Salad was excellent. A stop by a Wal-Mart for bottled water, snacks and forgotten necessities and we were on our way to Torrey where we had reservations
at Austin's Chuckwagon Motel. Yet another good recommendation from this board! The weather remained cold, but with some sunshine peeking thru and promises of a sunny, warmer day tomorrow. Torrey appears to be a little community that anyone would find comfortable. The General store next to the motel has a plentiful selection of canned foods, fresh bread, a deli with some baked items and a few other sundries necessary for outdoor living and campers. We had dinner at Cafe Diablo which sported the best Margarita that my husband or I had ever had and some pretty darn good food, too. Service was commendable as well. Am beginning to feel that I should have booked 2 nights at the Chuckwagon, so that we could try Capital Reef Cafe, also.
April 18 Much warmer, sunshine and a beautiful light jacket day, which was a prelude to great weather for the remainder of our trip. Pastries for breakfast and sandwiches for lunch from the Chuckwagon Deli and we are on our way to Capital Reef to explore. It might be my favorite park of all, which surprises me, but the lack of crowds and small geographical area just seems more intimate and manageable than some of the other parks which can be overwhelming. Loved the orchards and huge trees w/ picnic tables by the stream. Hated to pass up the fresh baked pies in the Gifford Homestead, but our Pastry limit was already over the top for this day. We drove and enjoyed a number of areas within the park while photographing the awesome scenery. After a picnic by the stream and an interesting stop by Hickman Bridge and the petroglyphs, we began our drive down to Boulder, where I had booked 2 nights at the Boulder Mountain Lodge. I really did have second thoughts about passing up an extra night in Torrey for 2 in Boulder after we arrived in Boulder. We checked into our room and frankly thought it a bit overpriced for the accommodations, but given that it was the only place that I saw where I would have wanted to stay in Boulder, we did not feel too slighted. Plus we were within a few feet of Hell's Backbone Cafe which we were eager to try. We had dinner there and were not disappointed. My husband preferred his meal at Cafe Diablo the previous night, but I thought Hell's Backbone lived up to its reputation and with lighter, more delicate cooking.
April 19 For some reason, we wound up taking the dirt road version of Hell's Backbone to head south to Escalante today. Since it had snowed only a few days previously, there was still a goodly amount of slush and mud to make the drive most interesting.
The scenery was inspiring and the wilderness feeling was only broken by a few other intrepid souls which we encountered on the journey early that morning. Next was lunch in Escalante at the only restaurant we found open on Sunday, The Prospector. After a pretty decent mexican combination plate, we headed out to find Lower Calf Falls. The weather had suddenly become very warm down in the canyon. The path was a popular one with the good weather. It meandered along a stream where the dogs as well as their people found soltice from the heat by wading in the shallow, cold water. A brochure is furnished at the beginning of the hike that correlates numbers w/ sites of interest along the trail. Well worth the venture if you are in shape for a 5 1/2 mile round trip hike and the weather is conducive. Take plenty of water, hat and sunscreen. The return trip to Boulder on the paved version of Hell's Backbone was pretty tame compared to the earlier unpaved route of the morning trip down to Escalante. A nice sunset with another good meal at Hell's Backbone Cafe and this time DH had to give stars to the chef and the service. Still feel that for the money, a 2nd night in Torrey
would have been best.
April 20 Finally get to do my Valley of the Gods B&B today..... ANOTHER rec from this board, so I am really stoked about it since everyone seems to love it. Left Boulder per Hwy 24 to Hanksville connecting w/ Hwy 95. Had intended to stop back in Torrey and pick up some sandwiches from Austin's Chuckwagon Deli, but somehow we got distracted by the awesome scenery of Capital Reef and neglected to do this. Choices for food looked a bit slim in Hanksville, but we took a chance and pulled into the Red Rock Restaurant and Campground. Quite a stroke of luck because the chef had been a chef in Durango for years and really knew how to cook food! My husband had the combo Burrito which he proclaimed as one of the best Burritos that he had
ever eaten. I had the Red Rock Burger with Onion Rings which were stacked in a nice little pyramid and very non greasy! Burger was great, too. A nice surprise when about the only other life in town seemed to be the House Boat repair and storage business in town. Next destination... Natural Bridges. Because we had arrived so late in the day, did not feel we had the time for one of the hikes to the bridges, but did promise to consider it for a return trip since we were not that far from my long anticipated VOG B&B. Somehow, I had not paid close enough attention to the details of Highway 261 and the Mogi Dugway being one and the same, because when we drove out onto the lookout over VOG and at the beginning of the descent of Mogi, I thought we
were going to have to tranqulize DH. I had the B&B in my sights now and thought the Valley was all that had been described on this board w/ such glowing reviews. After tentatively making it down the dugway (it really is quite exciting and DH admits to an unnatural fear of roads w/ sheer drops, so it is not a bad experience unless you have that phobia), we arrived at the B&B. We were made to feel right at home by Claire, given a tour of the home, and introduced to some of the other guests. Was glad we had passed on the hike at the bridges because we would have missed a wonderful sunset with a front row seat on the comfortable front porch. We made our way into Mexican Hat for dinner. With low expectations, we had a very pleasant surprise at the Swingin Steak House. Patio seating with nice little fires in portable fireplaces to ward off the night desert chlll, a Cowboy cooking steaks over a barrel type grill with a swinging griddle over the cedar fire and a cold beer called "Polygamy Porter, Why have just one"!! Steaks, beans and salad were all quite delicious and we felt almost as if we were a part of one of the Old West Roundups. The VOG B&B was a most comfortable night's sleep with nothing but the moon and stars for light and quiet peacefulness in that 100+ yr. old stone house. Claire and Gary thought of every comfort and it was a most unique experience that I hope to repeat sometime in my life.
April 21 A most enjoyable breakfast of French toast with homemade applesauce, sausage, fresh fruit, fresh orange juice and good strong coffee served on the porch with some of the most amazing views we had seen thus far on our trip. The birds were singing in the Cottonwood trees and the jack rabbits were fearless as they joined us. After exchanging info and emails with some of the other guests, we spent the remainder of the day exploring Monument Valley area. We enjoyed Goulding's museum and reading about the Goulding's life as pioneers in such an inspiring part of the
world. Their home upstairs from the general store and museum is open and free to tour. We decided against the guided tour of Monument Valley as we were feeling a bit overwhelmed and in need of an early day, so we headed to Bluff where we had reservations at the Desert Rose Inn. The weather had warmed up considerably to the high 80's making that potentially planned rafting trip down the San Juan river a real possibility, so we stopped off at Wild Rivers Expedition to see what might be available the next day. No rafting trips was available for the next day which was a disappointment, because the pictures in the office looked as if we would have had a great trip. Another Patio dinner at the Cottonwoods Steak House, but with not
quite the atmosphere of the swinging steak house the night before. Still very good ribs for west of the Mississippi and very friendly, gracious service. Desert rose Inn had laundry facilities, plus free internet, comfortable beds, and adequate furnishings but request a rear facing room so that you can get decent cell service. A very restful evening which recharged us for our next 4 days in Moab.
April 22... A stop in Blanding at the Welcome Center landed us bags full of free goodies from packets of Aleve to travel toothpaste and vitamins! A quaint little museum telling the history of the town is in the same building. We got directions to The Edge of Cedars State Park where we spent a most enjoyable few hours going thru the Museum and meadering thru the Anasazi ruins outside. There was an intriquing Photography exhibition by Dave Manley called Written in Stone of petroglyphs that looked more authentic than the actual petroglyphs which we saw on some of the mountains. We both enjoyed this stop. Almost to Moab and we are curious about the 5000 sq ft house called the Hole N the Rock. http://www.theholeintherock.com/ Don't know if this one has been on HGTV's Most unusual homes or not, but it certainly qualifies as unusual. Another unplanned and entertaining tour. Arrived in Moab late afternoon anxious to explore our VRBO Center Street condo#149341. Only 1 block off Main Street, but with a very quiet back yard with off street parking and security for bikes, car, or camper. Nicely landscaped but with no direct access from the upstairs condo except thru the driveway gates. The downstairs condo shares the space and is managed by the same owner. The condo was most luxuriously furnished with a well equipped kitchen. It felt as if we were in someone's personally furnished home. Very quiet and much nicer than a noisy hotel room would have been for about the same money. Pleased with our digs.
April 23-26.... One day split between a 4X4 tour and a Jet boat tour booked thru Canyonlands by Night. Both were excellent and included lunch. The 4x4 trip took us to Gemini Bridges, as well as Dead Horse Point State Park with a very informative guide in a Ford Excursion with 4 other people. The Jet Boat was also Captained by a very experienced guide who stopped for a short hike to show us petrified wood, and point out many points of interest sprinkled w/ folk lore as well as recent history of the area. We had a lovely dinner at Desert Bistro one evening and a good meal at Pasta Jay's another evening. The Thai restaurant on Center St. left a bit to be desired. We shopped the two well stocked local grocery stores for our remaining meals. The Classic car show was in town for the weekend and the evenings were an informal parade of cars up and down the strip of Main Street with onlookers on either side of the street set up w/ their folding chairs. On Saturday, all the cars were on display in one of the local parks which was an added bonus for us. We went to the Movie Museum at Red Cliffs Lodge after the car show and spent an enjoyable hour browsing through the displays showing how popular the state of Utah actually is to the movie industry. A lot of information on display, including the dummy used for Thelma and Louise when the car went over the cliff at Dead Horse Point. A winery at the resort was having a wine tasting, also. Our other day was spent driving through Arches and doing some of the short hikes with
a picnic at one of the scenic stops. Our final day began early for our drive back to SLC to catch a 4:30 flight. We had been told to be sure and take Hwy 6 back to SLC and save a great deal of time. Would you believe that we hit a Spring Snowstorm for about half an hour south of Provo in the mountains. Fortunately, it was only a bit of rain when we hit SLC, so no flight problems. It was an awesomely, beautiful way to end our trip. Thanks to all on this board who have so generously shared their recommendations, because it helped to make this trip one of our more memorable ones.
April 16 We ate brunch at Lamb's Grill before heading out to Temple Square. Nice restaurant, good service and good omelets. It was cold and blustery with a bit of snow left on the ground from the late snow flurry the day before, but we did brave the elements to enjoy the tulips and other spring flowers bravely popping their little heads up to look for Springtime. The choir was not practicing for the public that Thursday evening, although, normally they do allow the public for Thursday PM practices. However, there are free noon Organ recitals which last an hour and we were fortunate enough to make that one. It did conflict w/ a 2 hour garden tour of the grounds, but with the weather, I think we made the best choice. Also toured the Beehive house, home of
Brigham Young where two young female missionaries were our tour guides. They were most informative and pleasant for the relaxed tour of a very historic home. The weather worsened and while we could have explored more of the square and just hung out to enjoy the wonderful landscaping and fountains, we opted for a ride about SLC to take in the city. An old friend who is a resident of SLC took us to dinner that evening at a Thai restaurant, Sawadee, which was excellent.
April 17 we began our journey to Torrey. I had read about a Tulip Festival at Thanksgiving Point Gardens, http://www.thanksgivingpoint.org, just south of Salt Lake which sounded like something a new Master Gardener would find interesting. Once again, it was cold and blustery, but we wrapped warmly and managed to catch an afternoon tour of the 55 acre botanical gardens with another informative tour guide. We did not have time to explore the Dinosaur museum or the children's farm and gardens, but did grab lunch in the Trellis Cafe. The homemade tomato soup and Napa Chicken Salad was excellent. A stop by a Wal-Mart for bottled water, snacks and forgotten necessities and we were on our way to Torrey where we had reservations
at Austin's Chuckwagon Motel. Yet another good recommendation from this board! The weather remained cold, but with some sunshine peeking thru and promises of a sunny, warmer day tomorrow. Torrey appears to be a little community that anyone would find comfortable. The General store next to the motel has a plentiful selection of canned foods, fresh bread, a deli with some baked items and a few other sundries necessary for outdoor living and campers. We had dinner at Cafe Diablo which sported the best Margarita that my husband or I had ever had and some pretty darn good food, too. Service was commendable as well. Am beginning to feel that I should have booked 2 nights at the Chuckwagon, so that we could try Capital Reef Cafe, also.
April 18 Much warmer, sunshine and a beautiful light jacket day, which was a prelude to great weather for the remainder of our trip. Pastries for breakfast and sandwiches for lunch from the Chuckwagon Deli and we are on our way to Capital Reef to explore. It might be my favorite park of all, which surprises me, but the lack of crowds and small geographical area just seems more intimate and manageable than some of the other parks which can be overwhelming. Loved the orchards and huge trees w/ picnic tables by the stream. Hated to pass up the fresh baked pies in the Gifford Homestead, but our Pastry limit was already over the top for this day. We drove and enjoyed a number of areas within the park while photographing the awesome scenery. After a picnic by the stream and an interesting stop by Hickman Bridge and the petroglyphs, we began our drive down to Boulder, where I had booked 2 nights at the Boulder Mountain Lodge. I really did have second thoughts about passing up an extra night in Torrey for 2 in Boulder after we arrived in Boulder. We checked into our room and frankly thought it a bit overpriced for the accommodations, but given that it was the only place that I saw where I would have wanted to stay in Boulder, we did not feel too slighted. Plus we were within a few feet of Hell's Backbone Cafe which we were eager to try. We had dinner there and were not disappointed. My husband preferred his meal at Cafe Diablo the previous night, but I thought Hell's Backbone lived up to its reputation and with lighter, more delicate cooking.
April 19 For some reason, we wound up taking the dirt road version of Hell's Backbone to head south to Escalante today. Since it had snowed only a few days previously, there was still a goodly amount of slush and mud to make the drive most interesting.
The scenery was inspiring and the wilderness feeling was only broken by a few other intrepid souls which we encountered on the journey early that morning. Next was lunch in Escalante at the only restaurant we found open on Sunday, The Prospector. After a pretty decent mexican combination plate, we headed out to find Lower Calf Falls. The weather had suddenly become very warm down in the canyon. The path was a popular one with the good weather. It meandered along a stream where the dogs as well as their people found soltice from the heat by wading in the shallow, cold water. A brochure is furnished at the beginning of the hike that correlates numbers w/ sites of interest along the trail. Well worth the venture if you are in shape for a 5 1/2 mile round trip hike and the weather is conducive. Take plenty of water, hat and sunscreen. The return trip to Boulder on the paved version of Hell's Backbone was pretty tame compared to the earlier unpaved route of the morning trip down to Escalante. A nice sunset with another good meal at Hell's Backbone Cafe and this time DH had to give stars to the chef and the service. Still feel that for the money, a 2nd night in Torrey
would have been best.
April 20 Finally get to do my Valley of the Gods B&B today..... ANOTHER rec from this board, so I am really stoked about it since everyone seems to love it. Left Boulder per Hwy 24 to Hanksville connecting w/ Hwy 95. Had intended to stop back in Torrey and pick up some sandwiches from Austin's Chuckwagon Deli, but somehow we got distracted by the awesome scenery of Capital Reef and neglected to do this. Choices for food looked a bit slim in Hanksville, but we took a chance and pulled into the Red Rock Restaurant and Campground. Quite a stroke of luck because the chef had been a chef in Durango for years and really knew how to cook food! My husband had the combo Burrito which he proclaimed as one of the best Burritos that he had
ever eaten. I had the Red Rock Burger with Onion Rings which were stacked in a nice little pyramid and very non greasy! Burger was great, too. A nice surprise when about the only other life in town seemed to be the House Boat repair and storage business in town. Next destination... Natural Bridges. Because we had arrived so late in the day, did not feel we had the time for one of the hikes to the bridges, but did promise to consider it for a return trip since we were not that far from my long anticipated VOG B&B. Somehow, I had not paid close enough attention to the details of Highway 261 and the Mogi Dugway being one and the same, because when we drove out onto the lookout over VOG and at the beginning of the descent of Mogi, I thought we
were going to have to tranqulize DH. I had the B&B in my sights now and thought the Valley was all that had been described on this board w/ such glowing reviews. After tentatively making it down the dugway (it really is quite exciting and DH admits to an unnatural fear of roads w/ sheer drops, so it is not a bad experience unless you have that phobia), we arrived at the B&B. We were made to feel right at home by Claire, given a tour of the home, and introduced to some of the other guests. Was glad we had passed on the hike at the bridges because we would have missed a wonderful sunset with a front row seat on the comfortable front porch. We made our way into Mexican Hat for dinner. With low expectations, we had a very pleasant surprise at the Swingin Steak House. Patio seating with nice little fires in portable fireplaces to ward off the night desert chlll, a Cowboy cooking steaks over a barrel type grill with a swinging griddle over the cedar fire and a cold beer called "Polygamy Porter, Why have just one"!! Steaks, beans and salad were all quite delicious and we felt almost as if we were a part of one of the Old West Roundups. The VOG B&B was a most comfortable night's sleep with nothing but the moon and stars for light and quiet peacefulness in that 100+ yr. old stone house. Claire and Gary thought of every comfort and it was a most unique experience that I hope to repeat sometime in my life.
April 21 A most enjoyable breakfast of French toast with homemade applesauce, sausage, fresh fruit, fresh orange juice and good strong coffee served on the porch with some of the most amazing views we had seen thus far on our trip. The birds were singing in the Cottonwood trees and the jack rabbits were fearless as they joined us. After exchanging info and emails with some of the other guests, we spent the remainder of the day exploring Monument Valley area. We enjoyed Goulding's museum and reading about the Goulding's life as pioneers in such an inspiring part of the
world. Their home upstairs from the general store and museum is open and free to tour. We decided against the guided tour of Monument Valley as we were feeling a bit overwhelmed and in need of an early day, so we headed to Bluff where we had reservations at the Desert Rose Inn. The weather had warmed up considerably to the high 80's making that potentially planned rafting trip down the San Juan river a real possibility, so we stopped off at Wild Rivers Expedition to see what might be available the next day. No rafting trips was available for the next day which was a disappointment, because the pictures in the office looked as if we would have had a great trip. Another Patio dinner at the Cottonwoods Steak House, but with not
quite the atmosphere of the swinging steak house the night before. Still very good ribs for west of the Mississippi and very friendly, gracious service. Desert rose Inn had laundry facilities, plus free internet, comfortable beds, and adequate furnishings but request a rear facing room so that you can get decent cell service. A very restful evening which recharged us for our next 4 days in Moab.
April 22... A stop in Blanding at the Welcome Center landed us bags full of free goodies from packets of Aleve to travel toothpaste and vitamins! A quaint little museum telling the history of the town is in the same building. We got directions to The Edge of Cedars State Park where we spent a most enjoyable few hours going thru the Museum and meadering thru the Anasazi ruins outside. There was an intriquing Photography exhibition by Dave Manley called Written in Stone of petroglyphs that looked more authentic than the actual petroglyphs which we saw on some of the mountains. We both enjoyed this stop. Almost to Moab and we are curious about the 5000 sq ft house called the Hole N the Rock. http://www.theholeintherock.com/ Don't know if this one has been on HGTV's Most unusual homes or not, but it certainly qualifies as unusual. Another unplanned and entertaining tour. Arrived in Moab late afternoon anxious to explore our VRBO Center Street condo#149341. Only 1 block off Main Street, but with a very quiet back yard with off street parking and security for bikes, car, or camper. Nicely landscaped but with no direct access from the upstairs condo except thru the driveway gates. The downstairs condo shares the space and is managed by the same owner. The condo was most luxuriously furnished with a well equipped kitchen. It felt as if we were in someone's personally furnished home. Very quiet and much nicer than a noisy hotel room would have been for about the same money. Pleased with our digs.
April 23-26.... One day split between a 4X4 tour and a Jet boat tour booked thru Canyonlands by Night. Both were excellent and included lunch. The 4x4 trip took us to Gemini Bridges, as well as Dead Horse Point State Park with a very informative guide in a Ford Excursion with 4 other people. The Jet Boat was also Captained by a very experienced guide who stopped for a short hike to show us petrified wood, and point out many points of interest sprinkled w/ folk lore as well as recent history of the area. We had a lovely dinner at Desert Bistro one evening and a good meal at Pasta Jay's another evening. The Thai restaurant on Center St. left a bit to be desired. We shopped the two well stocked local grocery stores for our remaining meals. The Classic car show was in town for the weekend and the evenings were an informal parade of cars up and down the strip of Main Street with onlookers on either side of the street set up w/ their folding chairs. On Saturday, all the cars were on display in one of the local parks which was an added bonus for us. We went to the Movie Museum at Red Cliffs Lodge after the car show and spent an enjoyable hour browsing through the displays showing how popular the state of Utah actually is to the movie industry. A lot of information on display, including the dummy used for Thelma and Louise when the car went over the cliff at Dead Horse Point. A winery at the resort was having a wine tasting, also. Our other day was spent driving through Arches and doing some of the short hikes with
a picnic at one of the scenic stops. Our final day began early for our drive back to SLC to catch a 4:30 flight. We had been told to be sure and take Hwy 6 back to SLC and save a great deal of time. Would you believe that we hit a Spring Snowstorm for about half an hour south of Provo in the mountains. Fortunately, it was only a bit of rain when we hit SLC, so no flight problems. It was an awesomely, beautiful way to end our trip. Thanks to all on this board who have so generously shared their recommendations, because it helped to make this trip one of our more memorable ones.
May 21st, 2009, 04:10 PM
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Terrific trip report with lots of detail. My DH and I leave this Saturday for the Utah parks, and plan to visit most, if not all, of the areas you reviewed. We are also renting a condo in Moab, but one a little south of town - a great type of accommodations. Thanks so much for posting your report - hope I can return the favor for all.
May 21st, 2009, 06:58 PM
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Thanks for the info. I am planning our first trip - arriving in SLC then to Tetons and Yellowstone and on to Mt. Rushmore and fly home from Denver. I am trying to make the most of the time - 9 days. Any recommendations would be awesome. Thanks!
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