One Traveler's Opinion: Tea at the Ritz.... errr, make that the Taj
Dec 27th, 2007, 06:24 AM
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One Traveler's Opinion: Tea at the Ritz.... errr, make that the Taj
For as long as I can remember living in the Boston area, my wife and I have observed a tradition of taking tea at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel on Christmas Eve. The Ritz-Carlton, in turn, has been a fixture in Back Bay since 1927. It’s a graceful old brick building, anchoring the corner of Arlington and Newbury Streets, directly across the street from the Public Garden and the pond that is home to the swan boats in the summer.
Tea at the Ritz at Christmastime is a highly civilized affair: well-dressed men and women, little boys in unaccustomed shirts and ties and little girls in velvet dresses. A harpist plays and waiters silently bring on the tea, scones, and finger sandwiches that are part of a high tea. We like to arrive early in order to snag one of the tables-for-two at one of the windows overlooking Newbury Street. There, from the second floor, you can watch the goings-on down on the street as well as at the tables around you. For an hour and a half, life is serene and highly civilized. It has always then been our habit to take a stroll down Newbury Street with its shops and up Commonwealth Avenue with its magnificent old brownstones adorned for the holidays with swags, wreaths and roping.
If all that sounds idyllic, it is… or, more accurately, I ought to say ‘it was’. Because, on January 1, 2007, a seismic event took place: the Ritz-Carlton became ‘The Taj’.
In hindsight, it was inevitable. The Ritz-Carlton chain had changed hands a few years earlier, becoming a ‘brand’ of Marriott. In 2000, a group called Millennium Partners built a glass and steel monstrosity a mile away in what used to be called the Combat Zone, and put the Ritz-Carlton name on part of that complex. Boston suddenly had two Ritz-Carltons. Inevitably, one of them had to go. An Indian hotel group met Millennium’s asking price for the Back Bay property and so, in the first day of the new year, down came the old brass plates and up went those of the Taj.
We had heard little about the new hotel – I guess our suburban orbit doesn’t generally include things going on in Back Bay. But, by force of habit, in October I made our annual reservation for 2 p.m. for December 24 and, at the appointed time, we appeared in the appointed place.
In some ways, it was the same. In many ways, it was very different. It was held in the same small, elegantly appointed salons as before. The paintings in the wall were the same. The sandwiches were as appealing as they had been a year earlier and the service was first-rate. The first striking difference was the staff. The servers we had seen for years (even decades) were gone. The new staff was uniformly Asian, presumably reflecting the hotel’s clientele and ownership. The second was the china. Gone was the polychromed Wedgwood. In its place was an austere brown and white bird motif. The Christmas decorations around the room were also brown and white and very few in number. Most disturbing of all, the harpist played a few Christmas tunes, then lapsed into a long set of Broadway numbers: medleys from ‘Cats’ and ‘The Sound of Music’.
In years past, we lingered nearly two hours, getting fresh pots of tea and enjoying the atmosphere. This year, even though we had those seats at the table overlooking Newbury Street, we were in and out in a little over an hour. It just wasn’t the same. It didn’t feel like Christmas.
It’s inevitable that life changes. Nothing stays the same forever, even traditions. Taking that walk up Newbury Street, we agreed it’s time to find a few one for Christmas Eve.
Tea at the Ritz at Christmastime is a highly civilized affair: well-dressed men and women, little boys in unaccustomed shirts and ties and little girls in velvet dresses. A harpist plays and waiters silently bring on the tea, scones, and finger sandwiches that are part of a high tea. We like to arrive early in order to snag one of the tables-for-two at one of the windows overlooking Newbury Street. There, from the second floor, you can watch the goings-on down on the street as well as at the tables around you. For an hour and a half, life is serene and highly civilized. It has always then been our habit to take a stroll down Newbury Street with its shops and up Commonwealth Avenue with its magnificent old brownstones adorned for the holidays with swags, wreaths and roping.
If all that sounds idyllic, it is… or, more accurately, I ought to say ‘it was’. Because, on January 1, 2007, a seismic event took place: the Ritz-Carlton became ‘The Taj’.
In hindsight, it was inevitable. The Ritz-Carlton chain had changed hands a few years earlier, becoming a ‘brand’ of Marriott. In 2000, a group called Millennium Partners built a glass and steel monstrosity a mile away in what used to be called the Combat Zone, and put the Ritz-Carlton name on part of that complex. Boston suddenly had two Ritz-Carltons. Inevitably, one of them had to go. An Indian hotel group met Millennium’s asking price for the Back Bay property and so, in the first day of the new year, down came the old brass plates and up went those of the Taj.
We had heard little about the new hotel – I guess our suburban orbit doesn’t generally include things going on in Back Bay. But, by force of habit, in October I made our annual reservation for 2 p.m. for December 24 and, at the appointed time, we appeared in the appointed place.
In some ways, it was the same. In many ways, it was very different. It was held in the same small, elegantly appointed salons as before. The paintings in the wall were the same. The sandwiches were as appealing as they had been a year earlier and the service was first-rate. The first striking difference was the staff. The servers we had seen for years (even decades) were gone. The new staff was uniformly Asian, presumably reflecting the hotel’s clientele and ownership. The second was the china. Gone was the polychromed Wedgwood. In its place was an austere brown and white bird motif. The Christmas decorations around the room were also brown and white and very few in number. Most disturbing of all, the harpist played a few Christmas tunes, then lapsed into a long set of Broadway numbers: medleys from ‘Cats’ and ‘The Sound of Music’.
In years past, we lingered nearly two hours, getting fresh pots of tea and enjoying the atmosphere. This year, even though we had those seats at the table overlooking Newbury Street, we were in and out in a little over an hour. It just wasn’t the same. It didn’t feel like Christmas.
It’s inevitable that life changes. Nothing stays the same forever, even traditions. Taking that walk up Newbury Street, we agreed it’s time to find a few one for Christmas Eve.
Dec 27th, 2007, 06:30 AM
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I remember taking my daughters to Tea at the Ritz, many years ago. Your description is so apt, and beautifully written!
Perhaps the "new" Rith-Carlton, on Avery St. will have the tea in the future?? We stopped in before the matinee of The Nutcracker for a Christmas brunch, with a daughter and grandaughter. It was lovely- and the young one suitably awed.
Perhaps the "new" Rith-Carlton, on Avery St. will have the tea in the future?? We stopped in before the matinee of The Nutcracker for a Christmas brunch, with a daughter and grandaughter. It was lovely- and the young one suitably awed.
Dec 27th, 2007, 07:24 AM
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Neal - very nice description. I am so glad I managed to do a tea at the Ritz with my daughters and mother in law beofre she passed away and before the real Ritz went away. Thanks for letting me stroll down memory lane.
Dec 27th, 2007, 12:08 PM
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Capecodshanty, the 'new' Ritz-Carlton also has an afternoon tea (it's a fixture at any Ritz-Carlton), but I can't imagine there's much of a demand. When a hotel's focus is its 40,000 sq. ft. fitness center, high tea is probably 'way down on the list of desired amenities!
Dec 27th, 2007, 12:55 PM
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I'm sure you're right, Neal Sanders.
I must admit, the "new Ritz Carlton" is quite easy to miss, unlike the old, in Back Bay! If it hadn't been for the Millenium Garage, and the doorman ouside the hotel, we might have walked right on by.
I must admit, the "new Ritz Carlton" is quite easy to miss, unlike the old, in Back Bay! If it hadn't been for the Millenium Garage, and the doorman ouside the hotel, we might have walked right on by.
Dec 27th, 2007, 01:08 PM
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For Bennnie and capecodshanty, the Boston Globe recently listed several places with formal teas. They included the Boston Harbor Hotel at Rowe's Wharf and the Park Plaza Hotel. The tea at the Boston Harbor Hotel sounded a bit cutesey (rose petals strewn across the table) and, at $45, a little over the top price-wise (that's versus $28 for Tea Royal at the Taj, although the Boston Harbor Hotel throws in a glass of Veuve Cliquot)for the extra $17.
Dec 27th, 2007, 01:16 PM
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Hello Neal, I understand your dissapointment.
The St. Francis Hotel in SF at Union Square had the beautiful Compass Rose Room that served teas and also drinks etc. A very lovely place to go to especially at Christmas time as one could look down at the hotel lobby which always had their beautiful Christmas tree and decorations.
Some years ago..three or four I think.. the Compass Rose Room was closed down. Renovations took place in that area and also the lobby. It is now called Mina. When I first checked it out when it reopened I think I let out a gasp. As my daughter said it looked like a cheap l960's hotel lobby. And the Compass Rose Room was totally destroyed in our opinion. Another old historical SF setting which no longer exsist. It is heartbreaking.
The St. Francis Hotel in SF at Union Square had the beautiful Compass Rose Room that served teas and also drinks etc. A very lovely place to go to especially at Christmas time as one could look down at the hotel lobby which always had their beautiful Christmas tree and decorations.
Some years ago..three or four I think.. the Compass Rose Room was closed down. Renovations took place in that area and also the lobby. It is now called Mina. When I first checked it out when it reopened I think I let out a gasp. As my daughter said it looked like a cheap l960's hotel lobby. And the Compass Rose Room was totally destroyed in our opinion. Another old historical SF setting which no longer exsist. It is heartbreaking.
Jan 1st, 2008, 11:01 AM
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Neal: My husband and I also have a tradition involving the old Ritz - we enjoy a drink in the bar following dinner at the Bristol Lounge the Saturday before Christmas each year. We went again this year and I agree with your impression - on the surface, much is the same but there are obvious differences. The most notable difference to me was the minimal attempt to decorate for Christmas - the bar had the same subdued brown and white decorations. I am happy to say that we had the same serving person that we have had in past years. The new management kept him! I agree with you about the "new" Ritz - it doesn't hold a candle to the old Boston feel that the original one had. You may want to consider the high tea at the Bristol Lounge. They have it every day from 3:00 to 4:30 and it's very nice, especially if you can get a seat overlooking the Public Garden.
Jan 1st, 2008, 11:35 AM
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Aloha Neal and a very merry new year to you and yours!
Guess I'll have to stick to the Bristol sofas, a cheeseburger and ceasar with my martini!!!! Yet until this year I still missed the old Bristol, but I have adjusted, especially with the glorious square wreaths and gorgeous flowers in the lobby.
Taking a break from the fire and the tree. Big Johns concolor fir has yet to shed a single needle, and remains glorious in its white lights and few glass ornaments. Do you have an email address you can share here - I'd send you a pic. Loved yours.
Alas the Ritz will never be the same. Hopefully we will grow to love the new version. I have a collection of blue coffee mugs from the Ritz - only oversized cup I love to drink from.....who knew it would be a collecters item.
Merry hahahaha
Guess I'll have to stick to the Bristol sofas, a cheeseburger and ceasar with my martini!!!! Yet until this year I still missed the old Bristol, but I have adjusted, especially with the glorious square wreaths and gorgeous flowers in the lobby.
Taking a break from the fire and the tree. Big Johns concolor fir has yet to shed a single needle, and remains glorious in its white lights and few glass ornaments. Do you have an email address you can share here - I'd send you a pic. Loved yours.
Alas the Ritz will never be the same. Hopefully we will grow to love the new version. I have a collection of blue coffee mugs from the Ritz - only oversized cup I love to drink from.....who knew it would be a collecters item.
Merry hahahaha
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