Wonderful December weekend in Woodstock, New York! I'll hit the highlights. Beautiful 3 hour drive from CT through the Berkshires of Mass to Hudson to visit Olana - the home of Frederic Church the landscape painter. It was a clear crisp sunny day perfect to see the vistas from Olana which sits up high overlooking the Hudson River. Church was a Hudson River artist and he built this home to replicate his world travels. It's Persian inspired and various rooms reflect the places he and his wife had visited - the Middle East, Mexico, etc. He had 10,000 items shipped home and they are in the home. It's incredibly interesting. Some of his work is on the walls (beautiful) and in other rooms he collected works of other artists. He did everything "for effect" the tour guide told us and you can see that in the detail of the home. Plus the grounds have walkable trails where he specifically cut the trails for their vistas of the home, and the land around it. It was about $15 per person, the tour guide was knowledgable, the tour was about 45 minutes and then we walked the trails. Spent a few hours there. Look for the little, subtle sign at the driveway entrance.
Then drove about 40 minutes into the town of Woodstock. Festive, fun, friendly with some great restaurants. Need I say more? Ate at Cucina an Italian restaurant the first night. Lovely, good food, modern atmosphere. Small portions (we don't eat that much either). Two entrees, two drinks, one salad - $125 later....still a little hungry?
Saturday was spent walking the town, some fun shopping in Woodstock (gifty type items, a very nice men's clothing store, the obligatory tshirt shops but some very nice people - shout out to Max the dog and his parents - such nice, friendly shop owners!). We bought some Christmas gifts and poked around.
We needed an early dinner because that night we were on our way to Levon Helm's place (drummer for The Band) for a four hour "midnight ramble" concert! Had bought $150 tickets online in advance and wanted to be there early for general admission seating. Ate at Yum Yum Noodle Bar right in the center of town. Drove by it three or four times because we didn't see a sign, but finally found it on a festive corner adorned with the town Christmas tree and holiday lights. Sat at the little bar and had the best Pad Thai and Udon Noodle Bowl. I kid you not when I say go here - even if Thai is not your faovrite. For the Noodle Bowl for instance you choose your broth, your protein and your type of noodles - veggies, hard boiled egg - delish!!! Boyfriend says pad thai was superb. Three thumbs up to Yum Yum. Inexpensive, friendly, delicious.
On to Levon Helm's place. Only 5 minutes outside of town, but down a long dark road - finally found the driveway entrance. I'll just get right down to it - if you like The Band, Levon , good music, GO THERE. What a pleasure. We saw 4 hours of incredible music starting with a band who played a fabulous Sly Stone theme - horn section a blazing, Eric Mingus vocals beyond amazing. So good you could almost cry over it. Musicians out of Brooklyn. Then a break and Levon is on stage with his band. I could go on and on but the visiting guest was Donald Fagan, the atomsphere was electric, Levon smiled and played with such enthusiasm the whole night. He even had a little visit from his dog (so darn cute) and before the end the crowd was treated to a New Orleans style romp from the horn section throught he audience. The Night they Drove Old Dixie Down, Ophelia and Eric Mingus back to sing 300 Pounds of Heavenly Joy. This was heavenly joy pure and simple. This whole thing happens in a state of the art studio/barn on Levon' home property in Woodstock. Needless to say, we are going back.
One last note about our trip - we stayed at a lovely place - The Woodstock Inn on the Millstream. Location is 5 minute walk/drive from Tinker Street the Main drag. We stayed in one of the large rooms had lots of atmosphere and the modern conveniences (flat screen, comfy king bed, jacuzzi tub,electric fireplace and even a little kitchenette. Opened the window to hear the rushing millstream. Really nice breakfast in the sunroom and super friendly management.
Oh and the first night we went impromptu upstairs to Joshua's a little mediterranean restaurant on the corner. We had a nightcap and heard a band. Do you know how friendly the people there were? They even included us in a birthday party, served us carrot cake, and then we all got up and danced to the band! How's that for fun and festive!
Honestly, I didn't know what to expect from a weekend away in Woodstock and I was pleasantly surprised to find a town with heart and creativity and friendly people. Thank you to everyone from the Millstream and Levon Helm and our new friends at Joshua's for making our weekend away a pleasure!!
Olana, Levon Helm, Holidays in Woodstock (New York, that is...)
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I've also had the pleasure of traveling to Woodstock, and going to the Ramble at Levon Helm's. It is a special experience. I'd go back again in a minute. We stayed at a B&B right on the Main Street, behind the tiny circular park, and can recommend it.
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One correction - the tour of Olana that we took in December was $9 per person, not $15.
Thanks for the report Zoom; I went to the Midnight Ramble about 2 weeks before you did. It was certainly worth the trip! Will remember your recommendations for next time. We had a good dinner at the Bear Cafe. Wish we had stayed at the Woodstock Inn but we could only make it for one night and they have a two night minimum on weekends. Next time!
thanks for this report. It sounds like a great weekend, and something my husband would really enjoy. You've given me a new idea for a weekend trip
Hey Zoom, I wonder if you can give a little more info about the Ramble. My husband was really psyched when I talked about going there. What is the venue actually like? how many people? how are the seats? the acoustics? I mean, with 4 hours of music, were there breaks? were you comfortable? did you wish you brought earplugs? all that kind of stuff...
thanks!
Hello ChinaCat:
I just had this conversation with my brother who asked me the same thing Christmas Eve. The Ramble takes place in a studio/barn on Levon's property. It's an intimate setting - just guessing the actual space where the concert takes place holds 300 or so? You either purchase a seat which puts you at floor level with the band, or purchase standing room which means you walk up a level and look down on the band from upstairs. Seating is GA so you want to get there at 6, get in line (outdoors) and when doors open at 7 have a pretty quick idea of where you want to sit as people do scramble a bit particularly if they want to sit up front. We actually chose to sit at the break - first row after aisle so we had lots of leg room. Behind us were about another 10 rows and a pretty stone fireplace! The band is floor level so I would recommend no further back then where we were. Becuase its a barn with some post and beam, I think the key is to sit centered so you can see as many members clearly. I wasn't sure if I would be paying attention for the full four hours - so I was hesitant to sit up front - but next time I def would. These are folding chairs by the way - probably the one aspect I found uncomfortable a few hours in. Sound was perfect. Not too loud or quiet - no sound porblems and I was prepared to feel like the horn section from the first set would be too loud - and it wasn't . I would have thought in such a small space it would be overwhelming but I think this is a really professional production. It's almost like watching studio musicians (or what I think that would be like). To see Levon best, he sits stage right, so you need to be a little left of center because there is this one beam that could block your view of him. The break was between sets, but if you sit where we were you could easily get up and move around. People did walk down the aisle, and they did get up when needed, but its a pretty respectful bunch. Yelling, excessive cheering, standing up in the seated areas, cell phones/texting, anything that might bother the band or another audience member in this setting is 100% not allowed and you WILL be asked to leave. In fact, I'm pretty sure I saw an overzealous audience member (occasionally standng up and fist pumping) who was sitting right in front of Levon get escorted outside by security. When he came back in , he sat in his seat like a mouse. There is a lot in the FAQs on Levon's website stressing about how they really don't want a raucous party/concert scene as its his home. They do allow people to get a red cup from them and you can go out to your car and fill it and bring it in to the show - and people did this - but it was really cold the night we were there so I just was happy staying inside with my water. We also brought something from the local bakery for the community food table which was fun because everyone visits that area during the break. Let me know if I've missed anything...may 2012 be a year of great music!!
Zoom- I sat in the first row after the break too; I thought it was a great spot! Make sure you get there relatively early. We were there when the doors opened and made a beeline for those seats. It wasn't a stampede or anything though. Just a really chill night like Zoom said. I would definitely go again.
thanks so much for the additional info. it sounds like a great time!
Levon Helm - RIP
So fortunate to have gone to his home to experience a Ramble. It was an inspirational night.
I was really hoping to go to one this summer. I had no idea he had been ill for quite a while.