vickiebypass

I live in CT, about 45 mins from NYC and visit NYC regularly. I usually go to Europe for a week in January but nothing called out to me. Then, I got an email from a travel site advertising $109/night rates at the Holiday Inn Chelsea (on 26th, btw 6th and 7th) - it took me about 2 minutes to decide to make a mini-vacation of it! Booked 3 nights in late January.

It was really cold, but sunny - except for one snowy morning - and I had a fabulous time. Loved being in Chelsea and wandering up and down, across and back a 7 block radius. Great houses, neat graffiti sprinkled here and there, tons of restaurants, lots of NYC-only things to see & do.

Day One
Took the train and arrived via bus at the Holiday Inn at around noon. On my way walking from 5th Ave west to the hotel, I passed a number of restaurants that looked appealing and interesting stores. I asked for a room with a view and got a compact room on the 20th floor with a big window, looking right at the Empire State Building, with the Chrysler Building off to the side and two dozen water towers and low roofs. The room was perfectly functional and clean with good lighting (3 lamps plus ceiling light), flat-screen TV and desk w/chair (lots of electrical outlets too). No refrigerator in the room, but they sent up a mini-fridge. Bathroom was small but fine.

Decided to go to the Melt Shop for lunch, which I'd passed earlier. I love a good grilled cheese sandwich! Had the classic w/bacon and it was perfectly grilled and gooey. In the mini-plaza outside, took photos of graffiti - a winged cat with a big smile.

Off to the Rubin Musem of Himalyan Art - i know nothing about Himalayn art but have read positive things about this museum and it was near (17th @ 7th) so why not? I was the only person for the free docent-led tour so I asked her to show me the key items. She was a fountain of knowledge and 90 minutes went by quickly. I won't say that I'm a convert to the beauties of Himalayan but it was interesting and I learned about an area that I was clueless about, so time well spent.

Next was the 9/11 Museum via subway. There's been much written about the site, the memorial pools, the museum, etc but I'm staying neutral. Not having seen the pools before, I felt they were impressive but solemn and grand. The museum was fine; I felt it was oddly organized and you had to double around to be sure nothing was missed. I didn't go into the shop because I did think it seemed tacky to buy a postcard or doo-dad (so, I guess I can understand the families' concerns about the shop).

Had a ticket to the Metropolitan Opera production of Iolanta & Bluebeard's Castle so took bus uptown. Only had about 20 minutes for dinner so grabbed a greasy slice of pizza and then settled into my partial-view box seat. Famed soprano Anna Netrebko was the lead in Iolanta and it turns out this was the opening night since the planned opening night was cancelled due to the blizzard that wasn't. I'm not an opera devotee but really enjoy the music and watching the orchestra; even my untrained and unknowledgeable ear could hear how wonderful Netrebko was. At the curtain call, flowers were tossed on stage, brava's were shouted and lo & behold, there was a protestor on stage who unfolded a large homemade poster to face the audience. The audience hissed and booed, he turned around to show the poster to the chorus and singers and then walked off, stage left where some officials met him. It all happened very quickly; I know that some people feel that Netrebko and the Met orchestra conductor support Putnin and should therefore not perform at the Met but it irked me since it detracted from the art. The second opera was great - only two performers, Bluebeard and his new wife - and I thought she was much better than him. Opera over and as I walked past the front of the building, there were a handful of protesters. Skirted them and walked to Columbus Circle for the bus downtown. It was snowing! Beautiful to see the snow in the street lights, blowing around, etc. Bus took me to 26th and 7th and I was hungry but not much was open since it was 11:45 pm and I thought I was going to have to buy dinner at Duane Reade when I spotted a Dunkin Donuts. Got a turkey sausage, egg & cheese sandwich to go and strolled to the hotel in the blowing snow.

Next: Doughnut Plant, High Line, Cooper Hewitt, Mr. Turner & Jazz

ElendilPickle

Nice trip report! I look forward to reading the rest.

Lee Ann

vickiebypass

Day Two
Woke up and it was snowing - woohoo! I love walking around the city in the snow so piled on my coat, hat, scarf, gloves, long underwear and off I went. Having read glowing reviews about the Doughnut Plant for a while, I stopped at their location on 23rd St (next to the Hotel Chelsea). Bought a pistachio doughnut seed (a donut hole) filled w/pistachio creme, glazed w/pistachios on top and a Blackout doughnut - chocolate cake, filled w/chocolate ganache and choc glaze on top w/choc crumbs. For my taste, the pistachio one was way too sweet and the Blackout was super chocolately, so I had to save half for later. Glad I went but wouldn't go back.

Walked to the High Line and went end to end - unfortunately, the newest bit was closed due to the prior snow storm so could only walk from 14th to 30th. But it was gorgeous - grey sky, snowing and blowing, quiet, no-one else on the High Line except a runner or two. Loved looking at the various architechtural styles of the buildings and the overlooks onto the adjacent streets. You really get a unique perspective up high like that (and can see into back yards, into windows, etc.) Spotted some more neat graffiti - the same winged, grinning cat, a wispy ethereal woman and a kaleidescope of colors over a local gas station. There's so much construction going on, especially at the Hudson Yards end. Cranes galore and big equipment drilling, moving dirt, etc. Watched them for about 30 minutes.

After nearly 90 minutes on the High Line, I disembarked at 14th and walked up to Chelsea Market @ 15th. They have a "flea market" area with local vendors but it seemed very commercial and nothing of interest to me. Walked through the market, noting new places and stopping at Amy's for some yummy bread sticks and an orange cookie. Out the front door and took the bus wending my way to 51st and Lex where I met my brother for lunch.

Went to Clarke's Standard, right on the corner of Lex and 52nd (or 53rd). An NYC chain, owned by the steak house PJ Clarke's, which has a local following. Got a standard burger with cheese, no sauce and fries. Burger was good - not huge but just the right size for me and the fries were crispy. They have several catsup varieties: regular, spicy and a root beer BBQ sauce which I tried on the fries - not bad! We talked and talked and talked - never a problem for us finding things to talk about.

Wasn't sure what I wanted to do before the jazz at Lincoln Center concer that night, but remembered the Cooper Hewitt museum has interesting exhibits so zipped over to 91st & 5th. It didn't strike me this time, so left quickly and decided to go to the Lincoln Plaza movies at Lincoln Center and see Mr. Turner. $30 later ($13 cab fare, $14 movie and $3 popcorn) I was settled into my seat. I was intrigued to see that for a movie which has been out for a while, and for a 3:35 showing, the theater was pretty full. Anyway, I enjoyed the movie and it was nice to sit for a while.

It was about 5:30, so walked the few blocks to the Time-Warner building which is the home of the Rose Theater at Lincoln Center. Had time before the 7:00 pre-show discussion for dinner and figured I'd eat at TWC...but there was no room at the inn pour moi (not surprising, given a Friday night) so I got a drink & snack at the Rose Theater lobby bar and read the newspaper. The pre-show discussion was led by a Lincoln Center staffer and he included himself in calling the attendees "jazz geeks". I could see why since he was talking about esoteric (to me anyway) topics but audience heads were nodding vehemently so it all made sense to them. I enjoyed the concert (it was the LC Jazz Orchestra, led by Wynton Marsalis, playing Duke, Dizzy, Trane & Mingus) but my mind kept wandering. Maybe I need the distraction of action on stage? Anyway, a good experience.

Took the bus back to the hotel.

Next: Outsider ArtFair, wandering, Broadway, bad dinner

HappyTrvlr

We really enjoy the Rubin too, well done and interesting. Their cafe is very good too.

nycguy10002

vicki - it sounds like you had a great time.

I want to comment on something you said "...seemed tacky to buy a postcard or doo-dad....."

You have to understand the general nature of people (maybe not you but of many others) - they need to have something tangible to represent a remembrance their visit to a place - especially a solemn place as the WTC site. Photos by themselves never seem to do that unless those photos are professionally done and bound in a book (which becomes that something tangible).

Inakauaidavidababy

Good for you seizing the deal of the day! I'd love to find a deal in Chelsea. Have never stayed in that hood. What fun!!!!! Thanks for sharing!

vickiebypass

Day 3

Super cold and windy but sunny. Planned a day of wandering around Chelsea before a 2:00 matinee, with the "big" destination the Outsider ArtFair, way over between 10th & 11th, at 22nd. En route, I spotted City Bakery on 18th and since that's one of my favorite spots I stopped in. In addition to baked goods & hot choc/coffee, they had a nice oatmeal bar. The toppings were included in the price and looked so good that I treated myself to a small oatmeal ($3.50) and added granola w/pumpkin seeds, tart cherries, lychees and brown sugar...my cup runneth over. Sat in the front next to the window and watched the other diners, plus the world walking by. Before leaving, I continued my treat by buying their super delicious "breakfast muffin" (these are really big and are clumps of dough, interlaced with cinnamon, walnuts & raisins that kind of carmelize on top) and a croissant.

Interesting shops on 18th - stopped in the artist supply store, AI Friedman. Not that I'm an artist by any means, but their stock was appealing - tons of frames, all sizes, shapes, colors, etc. Pens galore. Fancy notebooks (lots of Moleskins). Unusual books, bags and things. Down the block, a furniture/art store (not exactly sure what it was but I was struck by a small bronze sculpture of a woman walking, carrying a purse -sort of reminded me of myself); I would have gone in and was debating whether the sculpture qualified as a gift to myself since I saved so much money on the hotel...but they were closed so I was saved from myself.

Nearly at the Outsider ArtFair when I came upon a graffiti'd building I'd admired from the High Line that looked like an old body shop and had an old sign with the shop name "Heavenly Bodies" and phone #, etc. I took a few photos and as I walked past, realized it was the entrance to Comme de Garcons...heavenly bodies indeed!! ArtFair was 3 floors of mini-galleries from all over - Paris, Netherlands, plus all over the US. A lot of "primitive" works - paintings (oils, watercolors, inks, pastels, etc.); statues; fabrics; glass; metals; wood and more. Some styles were familiar to me but others were totally new. Some of these hitherto undiscovered artists really impressed me, others not so much but that's art! Also interesting seeing & listening to the other patrons - by and large, they looked arty to me (funky shoes and skinny pants, and dissonant hair).

Time to head uptown and find some lunch before the matinee, so bus to 41st and 7th. NY Times HQ is there (I'd read about their new location when they moved) and a Dean & DeLuca was on the corner so with only 30 minutes, that's where I went. Super duper lunch - a grilled Mon Frere sandwich (turkey, cheese & apple slices on artisan bread - the turkey & cheese were fancy and quite tasty); and a raisin pretzel. I found a nice comfy spot in the corner and enjoyed my sandwich and the parade of people. Walked around the corner to the Nederlander Theater for "Honeymoon in Vegas" starring Tony Danza. The NY Times gave it a great review and I had just seen the movie w/James Caan, so why not? Had a great seat - mezzanine, row GG, aisle seat which was only $69 and I could see everything just fine. It's a musical with witty lyrics, zippy action and the sets/costumes are fun; Tony D. was believable and all in all, I really enjoyed it. Would definitely recommend it! Then, I went back to Dean & DeLuca for a beverage and decided to check the TKTS booth for that night...walked past the Nederlander (this was about 30 mins after the show ended) and there was Tony, by himself, taking a photo with tourist couple. I was surprised to see him on his own; off he loped, across the street and down the subway stairs. See - in NYC, you can see stars just going about their daily routine!

There were a lot of shows available for that night's performance but I didn't want to kill time and was tired. So, decided to go to a restaurant I had passed earlier on 22nd & 10th - Don Giovanni's. Bus took forever (two). Disappointingly, dinner was mediocre at best. I had an appetizer of polenta with bolognese sauce and parmesan: the edges were hot but the middle was cold, as in refrigerated cold. Chicken parmesan entree was bland - even the chicken, which was tough, had no flavor, nor did the tomato sauce. Even the bread tasted refrigerated. And yet, it was fairly full with what appeared to be locals. Maybe it was just an off night.

Next: Bagels, seminary, church and random thoughts

vickiebypass

Day 4

Cold and sunny. Up early and walking around Chelsea - nothing specific planned, just meandering. Found a fantastic bagel shop on 8th and bought a rye bagel and a coconut one - blasphemy to a purist, but I was curious what a cocount bagel would be...just a plain bagel, with toasted coconut shreds on the top & bottom. But the bagels were made the right way and were chewy, moist, yum, yum. Not sure I'd get a coconut one again, but it hit the spot.

Had noticed the very large expanse (nearly a block long and a block wide) of old red brick buildings with towers, turrets, etc. from the High Line so wanted to see what that actually was. Turns out it's an Episcopal Seminary (which has a beautiful garden); closed to the public. The end on 10th Ave was bought and turned into The High Line Hotel, complete with real, flickering gas lanterns in the front. I was so intrigued that I went in to investigate. I was able to see one room which was decorated in an old style, with original dark hardwood floors, desk and embosser. They have 60 rooms and many face 10th Ave so I think those would hear a lot of street noise but there are some rooms that face the rear courtyard, although the recept clerk mentioned that they are popular and go quickly. I'm very supportive of taking old buildings and re-using them while maintaining their look but I don't think I'd stay at this hotel. 10th is a bit far west for me and it's a very busy street; I liked being near 7th and on a cross street (note that just down the block from my Holiday Inn was a Hilton and I walked past a Four Points Sheraton in my travels too, so there are several options).

Kept walking and noticed that the Episcopal church, St. Peters, was open so popped in. Sat on a bench along the back wall, reading their History flyer and admiring the stained glass windows (6 by Tiffany). Turns out the 9:00 service as about to start, so the reverend came over to say hello. We chatted and then he left to begin. The church (and the seminary) were built on land donated by Clement Moore, who wrote The Night Before Christmas and had a huge estate, stretching from the river to 7th and from about 17th to 22nd; the name of his estate was Chelsea. The church was toasty warm and I silently enjoyed the windows, carvings, etc.

Kept walking up & down the streets studying the buildings; liked seeing which had replaced stoops, removed roof cornices, fixed up the stoop, etc. Amazing what you can see by looking at the brick - old vs new. I was just walking along past a somewhat official looking building when I heard beautiful music wafting - I walked closer to the building and realized that it was leaking out from around the air conditioner unit. I thought it was a recording but then realized it was live music, so I leaned against the building, head tilted toward the air conditioner, drinking my Big Gulp and smiling. I'd call it gospel, with the call and response, but absolutely amazing voices in perfect harmony - who'd have thunk it? Just walking along and here was this gorgeous sound.

Eventually I went back to the hotel, checked out and took the train home.

Random thoughts:
I spend very little time in a hotel room, so as long as it's clean, comfortable bed and decent lighting, I'm happy. The Holiday Inn met all those criteria.

One of the things I noticed while meandering was the number of barber shops and that they were open on Sunday. The guys who happened to be sitting in the barber's chairs were getting chic hair cuts - not my father's crewcut! Also, on Sunday morning, there were a lot of homeless men out & about (earlyish). Not bothering anyone; in fact, most of them were in pairs, talking to their buddies. I just noticed them which made me wonder where they were the rest of the day, and why they were outside on Sunday morning - maybe some shelters close for a few hours in the morning?

I never buy into that "NYers are rude" concept but I noticed two things that struck me particularly as a repudiation of that concept: (1) I was on a bus and at one stop a older man, who seemed dis-oriented, boarded from the rear entrance (which is a no-no). At the same time, a wheelchair rider was boarding so the bus driver was busy helping them get on & buckled in. The dis-oriented man sat down and a woman next to me asked him in a quiet voice if he "needed any assistance." He said no and she asked if he had the bus fare, he said no and she dug out her wallet, gave him the quarters which he put in the fare box. I was impressed that she asked at all, and that she didn't make a big deal of it. (2) I was mid-block on 23rd and 7th and noticed a older guy with a white tipped cane tapping his way along, and saw a young (20's) hip-looking guy notice him too. The old guy made his way along, people moving out of his way, but he was sort of slanted toward the stairway to the subway. The young guy went over to him, and gently steered him away to the center of the pavement; the old guy must have asked where he was and the young guy said "you're coming up to the intersection of 23rd and 7th"...."are you sure? You OK? It's pretty busy" But the old guy assured him and kept tapping forward; the young guy sort of turned around to go on his way, but then turned back, watched the guy and came over to him at the curb and helped him across the 4 lanes. At the other side, the older guy tapped along and the younger came back across the street and went along his way. I loved seeing this - just a guy helping someone out without being asked...just doing the right thing.

Anyhoo, this was my four day mini-vacation and it was great. I felt transported out of my day-to-day rut, saw so many "BIG" things and also noticed lots of small, but uniquely NYC things. As the saying goes, I love New York!

SharonG

What a fun report. Planning a trip in October to see some old friends and I will try some of the places you mentioned. thanks.

HappyTrvlr

You really did a great job exploring Chelsea.I also found that young adults would offer us seats on the subway.
Interesting that the seminary's Desmond Tutu Conference Center is now a hotel open to the public.
Did you buy your bagels at Murray's? If so, you stumbled into one of best.

vickiebypass

HappyTrvlr: The bagels were from Brooklyn Bagels, 24th and 8th and they were great! I walked past Murray's later that morning and popped in but the line was a mile long so I passed on them.

I really do feel like I got a good sense of Chelsea and now I'm thinking about other areas for a deep dive - maybe lower east side or east village. Have to ponder and keep an eye out for cheap hotel rates!