Northern New England Road Trip: the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
Sep 17th, 2012, 02:30 AM
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Northern New England Road Trip: the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly
My wife went west to visit her mother, so on Sept 14, my sister and I left Boston on a road trip to visit the St Gaudens Memorial in Cornish, NH, explore the upper Connecticut River valley, drive into Canada, then follow VT 100 down the length of Vermont.
Lessons learned:
(1) nothing describable as color until the Connecticut Lakes and then only very early color. We didn't expect any, but for those planning a trip, I can confirm that we saw nothing to ooh and ah over the second week in September, and we went as far north as Montreal.
(2) this was to be a four day trip, but we absolutely could not find anywhere to stay in the Stowe-Montpelier area of Vermont on a Saturday night despite the best efforts of a wonderful motel clerk who called everyone. No leaf peepers yet, but homecomings, conventions, football games, and concerts had filled everything. Weekdays probably would have been okay but you absolutely cannot depend on finding a place without a reservation on a weekend at least through Columbus Day.
(3) Mobile phone connections in much of the North Country are unreliable, so if you depend on one to use as a GPS or search for restaurants and attractions, you may be out of luck. And once you cross into Canada, you go on to expensive international roaming charges. My sister had gotten explicit directions from Sprint to ennable her phone for Canada (and paid a fee) but couldn't make it work, despite being a sophisticated user.
(4) In Quebec, all the signs are in French, though some highway signs are bilingual. Speed limits are in kilometers. Kms are probably on your speedometer, but they may be lightly printed. Practic in advance. Parking meters accepted US quarters, though they are set back from the kerb so snowplows can do their work. Look next to the building fronts.
The Good: the St Gaudens Memorial and the Connecticut River valley are beautiful. We got good maps and followed roads as close as possible to the river, seeing many covered bridges and tiny, classic towns, some prosperous, some not. There was almost no traffic. Our route was NH12A from Cornish to West Lebanon, NH10 through Hanover to River Road, River Road to NH135 and NH135 to Littleton, where we spent the night. River Road is not paved all the way through, but the surface is excellent on the short unpaved portion. Next day we followed 135, then US 3 to the Canadian border past the Connecticut Lakes. The border crossing is remote and reminded me of the crossing from Croatia into Montenegro.
In Littleton, after about 250 miles, we stayed at the Littleton Motel, the oldest (1947) in NH, little cabins complete with dark knotty pine paneling and tiny bathrooms. But it was scrupulously clean with a lovely staff, comfortable beds, and a microwave and refrigerator. Across the street was the Littleton Diner, featured in Yankee Magazine. It is famous for pancakes, though we had their fabulous home-made corned beef hash with a side of home-made baked beans. Driving is hard work, so when in New England . . . .
We were lucky enough to have dramatic clouds all day, hiding the mountain summits but creating wonderful light and shadow everywhere. There was a bit of rain and fog near the Quebec border.
Our big suprise in the North Country was Lancaster, NH, a lovely iconic NE town with a Carpenter Gothic Episcopal Church and beautifully expanded Carnegie Library next to the town green. We were ready to move in after visiting the Farmers' Market. Clearly many retirees, but nothing twee.
In Canada, we let the GPS get us to Magog. It took us down Provincial routes, not all paved, and mercifully dumped us onto a freeway to bypass Sherbrooke on our way to Magog. We had lunch in Magog, which is a bit twee, at a boulangerie/bistro. We knew we were out of the US when my sister could have brandade de morue and I a duck gizzard salad (salade des gesiers) for lunch and the children's menu at another restaurant featured escargot for the little ones.
We entered Vermont at the junction of the 55 freeway and I-91. We waited in line for about 25 minutes but our own examination was cursory. We had our passports, were asked when and where we entered Canada, and were asked if we had anything to declare. There is a handy Vermont welcome station just after the border where we stopped for toilets, maps, brochures, and free Green Mountain coffee.
It was our plan to drive down VT 100, which we picked up at its beginning just west of Newport. The road was everything I hoped, though it is much wilder below I-89. This part is iconic dairy farms and small villages. We never did figure out why some were prosperous and some looked ready to close down. Cows and cow smells were universal!
We noticed more and more British sports cars on the road, mostly MG's and Triumphs, but plenty of Jaguars and a few Sprites. As we got closer to Stow, we saw more and more signs welcoming the "British Invasion." Shoulder season events like this are great for business owners, but they left us with no room at the Inn, so we made our epic drive back to Boston. Something like 12 hours behind the wheel that day, fourteen hours on the road total. An exhausting ending to a day driving through lovely country. I am going back to Southern Vermont with my wife in a couple of weeks, so I can pick up some of the country along the river that I missed with my sister, and she and I can do it all another time!
Lessons learned:
(1) nothing describable as color until the Connecticut Lakes and then only very early color. We didn't expect any, but for those planning a trip, I can confirm that we saw nothing to ooh and ah over the second week in September, and we went as far north as Montreal.
(2) this was to be a four day trip, but we absolutely could not find anywhere to stay in the Stowe-Montpelier area of Vermont on a Saturday night despite the best efforts of a wonderful motel clerk who called everyone. No leaf peepers yet, but homecomings, conventions, football games, and concerts had filled everything. Weekdays probably would have been okay but you absolutely cannot depend on finding a place without a reservation on a weekend at least through Columbus Day.
(3) Mobile phone connections in much of the North Country are unreliable, so if you depend on one to use as a GPS or search for restaurants and attractions, you may be out of luck. And once you cross into Canada, you go on to expensive international roaming charges. My sister had gotten explicit directions from Sprint to ennable her phone for Canada (and paid a fee) but couldn't make it work, despite being a sophisticated user.
(4) In Quebec, all the signs are in French, though some highway signs are bilingual. Speed limits are in kilometers. Kms are probably on your speedometer, but they may be lightly printed. Practic in advance. Parking meters accepted US quarters, though they are set back from the kerb so snowplows can do their work. Look next to the building fronts.
The Good: the St Gaudens Memorial and the Connecticut River valley are beautiful. We got good maps and followed roads as close as possible to the river, seeing many covered bridges and tiny, classic towns, some prosperous, some not. There was almost no traffic. Our route was NH12A from Cornish to West Lebanon, NH10 through Hanover to River Road, River Road to NH135 and NH135 to Littleton, where we spent the night. River Road is not paved all the way through, but the surface is excellent on the short unpaved portion. Next day we followed 135, then US 3 to the Canadian border past the Connecticut Lakes. The border crossing is remote and reminded me of the crossing from Croatia into Montenegro.
In Littleton, after about 250 miles, we stayed at the Littleton Motel, the oldest (1947) in NH, little cabins complete with dark knotty pine paneling and tiny bathrooms. But it was scrupulously clean with a lovely staff, comfortable beds, and a microwave and refrigerator. Across the street was the Littleton Diner, featured in Yankee Magazine. It is famous for pancakes, though we had their fabulous home-made corned beef hash with a side of home-made baked beans. Driving is hard work, so when in New England . . . .
We were lucky enough to have dramatic clouds all day, hiding the mountain summits but creating wonderful light and shadow everywhere. There was a bit of rain and fog near the Quebec border.
Our big suprise in the North Country was Lancaster, NH, a lovely iconic NE town with a Carpenter Gothic Episcopal Church and beautifully expanded Carnegie Library next to the town green. We were ready to move in after visiting the Farmers' Market. Clearly many retirees, but nothing twee.
In Canada, we let the GPS get us to Magog. It took us down Provincial routes, not all paved, and mercifully dumped us onto a freeway to bypass Sherbrooke on our way to Magog. We had lunch in Magog, which is a bit twee, at a boulangerie/bistro. We knew we were out of the US when my sister could have brandade de morue and I a duck gizzard salad (salade des gesiers) for lunch and the children's menu at another restaurant featured escargot for the little ones.
We entered Vermont at the junction of the 55 freeway and I-91. We waited in line for about 25 minutes but our own examination was cursory. We had our passports, were asked when and where we entered Canada, and were asked if we had anything to declare. There is a handy Vermont welcome station just after the border where we stopped for toilets, maps, brochures, and free Green Mountain coffee.
It was our plan to drive down VT 100, which we picked up at its beginning just west of Newport. The road was everything I hoped, though it is much wilder below I-89. This part is iconic dairy farms and small villages. We never did figure out why some were prosperous and some looked ready to close down. Cows and cow smells were universal!
We noticed more and more British sports cars on the road, mostly MG's and Triumphs, but plenty of Jaguars and a few Sprites. As we got closer to Stow, we saw more and more signs welcoming the "British Invasion." Shoulder season events like this are great for business owners, but they left us with no room at the Inn, so we made our epic drive back to Boston. Something like 12 hours behind the wheel that day, fourteen hours on the road total. An exhausting ending to a day driving through lovely country. I am going back to Southern Vermont with my wife in a couple of weeks, so I can pick up some of the country along the river that I missed with my sister, and she and I can do it all another time!
Sep 17th, 2012, 02:55 AM
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Thanks for the report! The St Gaudens Memorial is a jewel -- a wonderful combination of sculpture and natural beauty that's an ideal spot to spend a couple of hours on a beautiful day.
I didn't realize that Magog has become fanciful (though I could have imagined the "twee" description applying to North Hatley, had OP stopped there).
I didn't realize that Magog has become fanciful (though I could have imagined the "twee" description applying to North Hatley, had OP stopped there).
Sep 17th, 2012, 03:02 AM
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We are actually staying with friends at an historic house they have rented near Brattleboro, a good base for exploring the southern parts of VT, NH and northern Massachusetts.
But I would no longer go into "color country" without a reservation, at least on a weekend. This was a shame because our whole idea was to roam and stop when we wanted.
But I would no longer go into "color country" without a reservation, at least on a weekend. This was a shame because our whole idea was to roam and stop when we wanted.
Sep 17th, 2012, 03:12 AM
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Last year I was also up near Pittsburg and Berlin, NH one weekend after you guys went this year. The color was amazing, I guess the frosts have not come yet this year because that is what you need for good color. Next year try the last weekend of September in the White Mountains if you can it is really amazing.
Sep 17th, 2012, 08:20 AM
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Obviously the color depends on weather = and you need to check before you go. And anytime you might find color you will find hotels/motels full on weekends.
It's unfortunate that your heart was set on flying by the seat of your pants - never a good idea when heading into an area at the busiest time of year.
At least you seem to have enjoyed some of your trip.
It's unfortunate that your heart was set on flying by the seat of your pants - never a good idea when heading into an area at the busiest time of year.
At least you seem to have enjoyed some of your trip.
Sep 17th, 2012, 09:17 AM
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ackislander--
Great trip report; you've given me ideas for future trips to northern New England! I can see why you thought Magog a "bit twee" if you were on the main drag, although I find it a bit too real in parts or too pleasant a natural setting by the lake to describe Magog as "100% twee".
Best wishes, Daniel
Great trip report; you've given me ideas for future trips to northern New England! I can see why you thought Magog a "bit twee" if you were on the main drag, although I find it a bit too real in parts or too pleasant a natural setting by the lake to describe Magog as "100% twee".
Best wishes, Daniel
Sep 17th, 2012, 09:28 AM
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No, I enjoyed all of the trip, except the last two miles on Harvard Street in Allston. Too many drunk young people darting across the street, and I was tired enough to worry about hitting them.
I never would have gone without a reservation in leaf season, but I knew it wouldn't be leaf season yet so was fooled into thinking it would be relatively empty. There are lots more reasons to go to Vermont than I had counted on! I posted so others wouldn't think the same thing.
In the White Mountains, it was comparatively empty and there were lots of vacancies, thus our staying in Littleton. We actually like to stay in funky places, though I recognize that many of you do not, so it was a definite choice, not just the only place we could find.
I had many years of hiking and climbing in the White Mountains and emphasize again for others what many of you have said: color is when and where you find it, but since color wasn't my reason for going, its absence wasn't an issue.
Why did I want to go? To drive to the end of US 3. To drive to the source of the Connecticut River. To spend some time with my sister. To see how the river twists and turns, rises and falls from the roads closest to it. All successfully achieved.
I never would have gone without a reservation in leaf season, but I knew it wouldn't be leaf season yet so was fooled into thinking it would be relatively empty. There are lots more reasons to go to Vermont than I had counted on! I posted so others wouldn't think the same thing.
In the White Mountains, it was comparatively empty and there were lots of vacancies, thus our staying in Littleton. We actually like to stay in funky places, though I recognize that many of you do not, so it was a definite choice, not just the only place we could find.
I had many years of hiking and climbing in the White Mountains and emphasize again for others what many of you have said: color is when and where you find it, but since color wasn't my reason for going, its absence wasn't an issue.
Why did I want to go? To drive to the end of US 3. To drive to the source of the Connecticut River. To spend some time with my sister. To see how the river twists and turns, rises and falls from the roads closest to it. All successfully achieved.
Sep 17th, 2012, 09:58 AM
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You hit many of our favourite places . We often drive that way through Quebec to Stanstead then Littleton to Bethel Maine to ski. Did you miss Chutters in Littleton? Its fantastic
http://www.chutters.com/candy/
http://www.chutters.com/candy/
Sep 17th, 2012, 10:01 AM
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Ackislander, thank you so much for your detailed trip report! I've always wanted to visit Northern NE but we just never seem to have the time. The St Gaudens Memorial has been on my wish list for quite a few years now... not sure when we'll eventually find time for a trip up north. So for the time being, I guess I'll have to travel vicariously through you!
Sep 17th, 2012, 11:25 AM
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Oddly enough, a friend and I mentioned St Gaudens yesterday. Neither of us have ever been. She had just been to a wedding at Hildene and said the gardens there are fantastic. Leaf season is not my favorite. I would rather explore during June and early July but I certainly admire your desire to explore just because who knows what one might find once you get there.
