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Need help with itinerary, hotels & other Glacier National Park info

Need help with itinerary, hotels & other Glacier National Park info

Old Aug 28th, 2012, 01:08 PM
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Need help with itinerary, hotels & other Glacier National Park info

Am planning another trip and am calling on Fodorites to help with the planning (again!) We want to go to Glacier NP in August '13 and I am overwhelmed. Should we begin west entrance or east? Kalispell looks easy, Is Calgary too far? (direct flight from Texas) Is Great Falls a better airport choice? Reviews suggest that the east side of the park is more scenic. We are active seniors, like short hikes and boat trips and can overdose on great scenery! Does the red bus drive the entire Going to the Sun road? Is day or 1/2 day better?Would it be better to drive ourselves?Any suggestions would be so greatly appreciated. As you can see, I am confused!!!!
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 01:30 PM
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Here's what the Glacier National Park website says:

http://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisit/directions.htm

Kalispell is the closest. Other options include Spokane (4+ hour drive).

Calgary is too far, unless you want to also visit the Canadian park.
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 01:47 PM
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Check flying to Spokane and either renting the car there or taking the overnight Empire Builder from Spokane to Whitefish and renting the car there.
On May 31, DW and I got off the Westbound Empire Builder in Cut Bank and had a rental car waiting for us. We went up to St. Mary 6/1 and 17 miles up the GTTS road on the east side to the closed gate which was several miles below Logan Pass which was still being plowed. After that we drove past Medicine Lake and then west on US 2 as far as the Isaac Walton Lodge before heading back to Browning for the Museum of the Plains Indian and back to Cut Bank to turn in the car and get back on the train to Spokane.
Both sides are beautiful. About 7 years ago we got off the Empire Builder and were picked up by the van from Meadow Lake Resort (Columbia Falls). We had a car delivered there and took the driver back to the Kalispell airport before heading up as far as Lake McDonald where the gate was closed (November). We did see some elk that day in Glacier.
Meadow Lake is the nicest place you are likely to find in that area. The Empire Builder leaves Spokane at 1:30AM PT every day and gets you to Whitefish about 7:30AM MT.
My first trip to Spokane was in 1970 for the World's Fair.
The park was just as nice when we were there in mid-May.
If the Going to the Sun road is open all the way through, you want to spend two or even three days in the area.
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 01:50 PM
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The red "jammers" travel the entire GTS road unless stopped by road work. The first time we visited, I drove....and missed most of the scenery as I attempted to miss the rocks that line the road. Next trip we were much smarter and let someone else drive. The road is just too darn tricky to let your attention wander for even a moment...and the vistas are so glorious that you don't want to skip any.

We drove, so can't answer the airport question. We stayed on the east side both times. Don't really understand your "whole day vs 1/2 day" question.
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 01:51 PM
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The red "jammers" travel the entire GTS road unless stopped by road work. The first time we visited, I drove....and missed most of the scenery as I attempted to miss the rocks that line the road. Next trip we were much smarter and let someone else drive. The road is just too darn tricky to let your attention wander for even a moment...and the vistas are so glorious that you don't want to skip any.

We drove, so can't answer the airport question. We stayed on the east side both times. Don't really understand your "whole day vs 1/2 day" question.
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 02:40 PM
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Thanks for your answers! Marginal, I had seen the website you gave and am aware of the actual distances. There is so much more that I can learn from those who have actually made the trip as far as scenery, roads etc, all the intangibles. The park website opened so many questions for me like where to stay to maximize our time in the park. I couldnt get those answers from the website
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 02:44 PM
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Hi bobmrg....the 1/2 or whole day is the option for the jammers I think Not sure where I found that Will take your advice about letting someone else drive the GTTS Rd
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 02:47 PM
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I was just there with my daughter a couple of weeks ago. She's married with a daughter so didn't want to be away for more than 4 days plus travel.

Calgary is not too far.

Most people spend most of there time on the east side.

Essentially, there are 4 main parts to the park. Three of them are on the east side.

From top to bottom on the east side.

Many Glacier. Excellent scenic hikes. Depending upon your physical condition some may or may not be more than you want. I'm in my upper 60s and did them. You don't have to complete them. A lot of wildlife on some very short and easy hikes. Beautiful scenery.

We started in Many Glacier and spent two nights there.

Next down you have the middle or Going to the Sun Road. This goes from one side of the park to the other. Some excellent hikes for scenery, wildlife and waterfalls. We spent two nights here and never went to the west side. There was construction a little west of Logan's Pass. Another minor deterrant to going west.

Next down is Two Medicine. We never got there and I expected that. Some very nice scenery and hikes.

Airport. We started in Many Glacier. From Kalispell and Great Falls that's about a 3 hour drive to Many Glacier. They are both small airports with the issues of small airports. And few flights from anywhere.

Calgary airport is a little under 4 hours to Many Glacier. It's a major airport with many flights. I flew from FLL and got a one-change flight and arrived 12:15. There's a Walmart Supercenter 5 minutes from the airport and we bought all of our supplies there. Since we were out relatively early each morning, we never ate breakfast or lunch in a restaurant. Only dinner. We had enough that we bought there.

The road from Calgary is simple, two lanes each way, smooth and no hills. Same road all the way. A very pleasant drive. We did decide to stop in Waterton Lakes for a few hours on the way back but only because it was convenient.

We had a 7AM flight the next morning so it's great that there's a Delta Hotel in the airport right next to the car rental. You can either walk across the street into the terminal or go one floor up and take the indoor walkway. We returned the car the evening before so in the morning we walked out of our room, checked out in 5 minutes and walked across to the terminal. No car return or shuttles required.

Some will start talking about crossing the border. Those are people afraid of going to a different country. We had no issues going ineither direction. The agents were friendly on both sides. Essentially you can bring any food except citrus and I guess raw meat if you camping. Almost anything else.

My trip report is current and near the top. You can read it and see my photos at:
www.travelwalks.com

If you have any questions and want current answers just ask.

Glacier is beautiful. I've already booked lodging for next year. I'll be going with a friend and for more days.
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 02:50 PM
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I forgot. We never took the Jammers tour. Typically I research what I want and prefer to decide where I'll go and for how long. Depending on the type of traveller you are this may or may not be a good option for you.
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 02:57 PM
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About driving on GTTS road. I'm a driver who thinks the yellow line is meant to straddle. I had absolutely no trouble driving on that road. I've read that the west side is steeper. Maybe but I'll deal with that next time. I thought it was a lot tamer than driving some roads in Yellowstone.
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 04:16 PM
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Myer, thanks and I have read and enjoyed your trip report. Thanks for taking the time to post also for answering my questions. You spent 2 nights in Many Glacier, then where? What have you chosen for next year? I thought 2 nights in one hotel inside the park then 2 at another would give us a good bit of diversity. We might go to Waterton but have been there before. Saw a huge grizzley there! Border crossing is no problem but getting bumped off or missing a flight might be, so Calgary is appealing. Are the jammer tours run by the NPS or do I get info elsewhere? I cant seem to get the info I need. Thanks so much
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 05:00 PM
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For Jammers go to www.glacierparkinc.com

They also do the lodging reservations directly.

We stayed 2 nights in Many Glacier (Swiftcurrent Motor Inn) and 2 nights at Rising Sun on St Mary Lake.

They are both super convenient for the activities in the area. You shouold definitely do the Hidden Lake overlook hike and maybe part of Highline. With Highline you have to make a decision. You could make it during the hike.

Quite early in the hike there's a famous part of the trail. Some people find it scary so they put a cable that you can hold. Heights normally frak me but this trail is a lot wider than I expected. I didn't need the cable. Some people hold it. I didn't see anybody turn back. But you could.

The main problem is that is the most popular place in the park. The parking lot fills up by no later than 10AM or so. Make sure you get there early.

Both of the above hikes start at Logan's Pass though from opposite sides of the road.

For next year I just booked the maximum we might need and I'll figure it out as we get closer. We can always cancel some days (and make somebody happy) later on when the plans are firm.

I booked 3 nights at Swiftcurrent in MG and 5 nights at Rising Sun.

I'm going with a friend who hasn't been and I don't mind redoing some things. It's that beautiful.

We couldn't do all of Grinnell Glacier hike due to a dangerous snowfield. I didn't get to the Two Medicine area. I want to drive as much of GTTS road as possible and stop most of the viewpoints that I didn't.

The west side isn't a priority but if we have time it would be nice.

From what I understand the west side gets significantly more rain. Thus there is more forest cover and I guess that means more difficult to see scenery.

We stopped in Waterton for a few hours. Did the most difficult hike of the trip. Bears Hump. Short, steep and many log stairs that make it tough on aging legs. But we did it.

Last year I was in Banff and found both Waterton and Banff Townsite a bit too touristy. Some call it civilized. I would probably enjoy other parts of the park more than the town.

Since Calgary is between Glacier and Banff/Jasper, I may try to put 2-4 days together for highlights. If that's possible.

Back to lodging. In Many Glacier there's Many Glacier Hotel. Probably nicer than Swiftcurrent that's more like a motel. I don't remember why I chose that over the hotel. It was fine though. The hotel is right on the lake. The motor inn is closer to the trails. They're less than a mile apart so no problem either way.

There are some places that get little press and some over-hyped. I thought Sunrift Gorge was a waste of a few minutes.

I thought Lunch Creek is a beatiful cascading waterfall. We didn't go very far up but apparently you can if you want. How many people have heard of both? I'll bet Sunrift Gorge.

After seeing the large waterfalls in Yosemite and Yellowstone I thought St Mary and Virginia Falls would be nothing. They're both beatiful and each has their own shape. A bit of a hike but not difficult. Since it's mostly in shade the hike is fine. Just rest whenever you want.

Back to the Jammers. One day when we were pulling out of Rising Sun we saw a tour bus that had arrived. People got out of the bus and directly into 4 jammers.

A half hour later we saw them at one of their stops. About a quarter of the people didn't even get out at the viewpoint. I hope it's because they had a physical issue.
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 05:46 PM
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smcgown,

I am planning a trip there the last week of July 2013. I am either going to do a Jammer tour to Waterton/Afternoon Tea to Prince of Wales or the shorter one that goes from Glacier Park Lodge to Two Medicine area(it also includes a boat ride there).
I think I had rather do the GTSR on my own and stop when and where I want to. But, a lot of people swear that doing the GTSR on one of the red jammers is great.

Kalispell seems to easily be the closest airport(depending on where you want to start at in Glacier), in my opinion. However, as myer mentions, could have issues as smaller airports. I cancelled an entire trip there last year(however that was due to 49 airplanes being damaged in a hail storm in Denver-couldn't catch a flight for several days). I am getting close to booking and I can buy a ticket to Hawaii or Alaska for less than I can to Kalispell.

Do get your lodging ASAP.
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 06:03 PM
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Thanks for the tip. I will book as soon as I can figure out where! Im thinking perhaps 2 nights at Many Glacier Hotel then 2 nights at the newer St Mary's & jammer & or car trips out from each. Im tempted to fly into Calgary bec can get a non stop.
Meyer, I completely agree about Banff & Waterton Village being too touristy, not my thing at all.
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 06:57 PM
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I was underwhelmed by the Many Glacier Hotel. If it had been up to me, we would have stayed at Swiftcurrent Motor Inn, but my husband really wanted to stay in an historic lodge. The rooms were miniscule; the soundproofing was non-existent; and the rates were outrageous. The common areas were very nice, but you don't have to stay there to use them. (In fact, I heard a park ranger recommend staying elsewhere and just enjoying the facilities at Many Glacier Hotel.)
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 07:42 PM
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Remember also that there is a FREE shuttle bus that travels the entire lenght of the Sun road.
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Old Aug 28th, 2012, 11:17 PM
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If you have one week only, and arriving in Kalispell, your itinerary could be :
- 1 night in Apgar, west part of park(Apgar village inn is a nice place to stay)and some not too difficult hikes are possible(Avalanche lake, Trail of the cedars, Fish lake) but also some moderate(Snyder lake) or more difficult(Sperry Chalet). A drive to north fork is also a possibility(Bowman lake with some hikes here).
- then you can drive the Going to the sun road and have 2 nights at Rising Sun Motor inn. It's a superb location with more caracter than St Mary complex(and reviews on St Mary are not so good). The restaurant here is cool.You can have 3 nights here and explore some nice hikes on this part(Okotomi lake, Gunsight lake, Highline trail, Syeh and Piegan pass), some easy, some moderate.
- finaly 2 or 3 nights at Swiftcurrent motor inn in many Glacier. This a particular place and hikes are all nicest one/other, some also easy some difficult or strenous .
- and back to Kalispell via Highway 2 on the south part of the park.

We have had 5 stays in Glacier park and will be back next year.
I've made some trip reports(2007,2011,2012).
Beware that rooms go early in reservation.
For next year on my schedule, in Apgar village inn, only 3 rooms were vacant and in Rising sun I didn't got a motor inn but a cabin...(I'll try to got one if someone cancels...).
So do your choice quick and reserve early(the cancellation policy is not so bad...).
NB : I'm 54 and my wife 50 and till now, even the strenous hike or called so have seemed us "hike-able" without too much difficulty...
Erik
PS : if you want to explore Two Medecine, the best is to stay at East Glacier...But it's or 2 more days or tu cut in Rising sun or many Glacier...I know, difficult choices!!!
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Old Aug 29th, 2012, 01:24 AM
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Many Glacier Hotel is a hotel and Swiftcurrent is a motel. I never even walked into the hotel. Now we have an opinion on it.

Also, I spoke with someone on a hike who was staying there who told me the fire alarm went off the night before and the hotel couldn't figure out how to turn it off for over an hour.

I thought Swiftcurrent was fine though no luxury. Clean and comfortable.

About the free shuttle. I don't think it's intended as a means to tour GTTS rd. I think it's for going from A to B. I read somewhere that this year they increase the time between shuttles. Probably to save money. I'm not sure I ever saw them on the road. But also I only saw a couple of people waiting at a stop. That's either good or bad.

For sure the shuttle didn't appear to be like the one in Zion. Now that's a high frequency shuttle!!!

Erik is a lot younger (about 14 years) than I am. So I would expect his hikes to be somewhat different than mine. He's been to Glacier several times, has stayed at different lodging with different itineraries. I pay close attention to Erik's opinions and then adapt them to my style and physical condition.

spiro hasn't been to Glacier yet but has done his research and suffered the agony of defeat as his trip was aborted before it really started. I might have read that as a sign of something.

Which airport is a bit better might be determined by your chosen plan and desired lodging or the reverse where your itineray is built with your preferred airport in mind.

The common theme though is to reserve lodging quickly while it's available. You can make changes later if you have to.
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Old Aug 29th, 2012, 04:14 AM
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In your opinion(my wife and I) :
- at West Glacier, lodging from best to less...: Apgar village inn, Apgar motel, West glacier lodge and Belton Chalet(this last is nice, but on highway and near railways==>earplugs to sleep).
- Lake Mc Donad lodge is also a option but room's attribution could be a "lotery"...and you are not sure to be a winner!!
- at East glacier Glacier Park Lodge is not so bad. The "hallways" with view are nice to relax and lobby is quietest than Many Glacier hotel.
- at St Mary, definetively Rising Sun is for us the place to saty. Not so expensive, quiet, nice grill restaurant. View on St Mary lake.
St Mary complex is on road, type of rooms not well defined, and service variable.
- at Many Glacier, you can choose the type of room at Many Glacier Hotel, but the difference in price is important between standard and de luxe with view...And view you have it a few moment in the day as you are in Glacier not to stay in room but to visit...Some rooms are on corridor with a lot of traffic(to restaurant ie...).Atmosphere is so so and as it's one of the historic lodge; a lot of "visitors" on jammer tours...
Swiftcurrent motor inn is really convenient and all is in the atmospher...Really at the end of the road, with trailheads to some of the nicest hikes here...
If we had to choose one of the historic lodge, it would be Waterton but in Canada's part the Prince Edward...

To hike :
- the falcon guide by Erik Molvar, Hiking in Glacier, in its new edition is good, with good description;
- there is a small guide(Hikers guide by Glacier association) edited by Glacier Park association but with less hikes. Descriptions are very precise.
- Glacier Day Hikes by A.Leftridge is also a good option.
On the web site there is a nice descitption of the hikes(hiking the trail) but the scale of difficulty is not always exact : ie, Piegan pass and Syeh pass are equally noted but in our sense Syeh is really more difficult+++ and Garden wall is ranked strenous but is only long and not difficult...
Erik
PS : naturally, be prepared while hiking to the wildlife and specialy the bears...Not a real problem if you take the precautions and respect rangers advice.
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Old Aug 29th, 2012, 06:00 AM
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You definitely want to stay on the east side of the park - specifically the Many Glacier area. Much more scenic and best hiking trails are on the the east side. Many Glacier Hotel or Swiftcurrent Inn. Book now!

As I said, best hiking trails are on the east side, including the two most popular, Iceberg Lake and Grinnell Glacier. For Grinnell Glacier I would recommend the hike which includes the boat trip to shave of some miles. Be sure to make your boat reservation a few days in advance as it fills up quickly. Both Iceberg and Grinnell are in the ranger led series if you want to hike with a group. Here's a link to the current ranger led schedule to give you an idea of times, etc. The ranger led hikes are especially nice if you're concerned about hiking alone with bears.
http://www.nps.gov/glac/planyourvisi...activities.htm

I would recommend the jammer tour so you can enjoy the scenery, then maybe drive it on your own on another day so you can stop and do some of the hikes of the GTTS road. A must do hike is the Highline Trail which starts at Logan Pass Visitor's Center. Parking is a premium and you must get there early. Another short hike from Logan Pass is to the Hidden Lake Overlook which almost always guarantees mountain goats at the overlook. If you want a good idea of the best hikes in Glacier, including the ones I've listed, here's a good reference:

http://www.hikinginglacier.com/glaci...-ten-hikes.htm

The Two Medicine area on the east side has some spectacular hiking also. I would recommend staying at the Park Lodge in East Glacier Park for a few days. Dawson Pass (or awesome pass) and Scenic Point are two of my favorite hikes - both ranger led. Park Ranger Pat Hagan is a legend in East Glacier and if he's your ranger, you're in for an entertaining and enjoyable day.

One thing to keep in mind is that trails can close due to bear activity, so have alternate plans available. You can always check with the ranger station the day before you plan a hike to make sure any trail is open. Buy bear spray for each of you once you arrive in Montana if you plan on hiking alone.
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