MacNaughton

We have returned from our weeklong circle trip from Las Vegas to the Grand Canyon to Zion NP and Bryce Canyon. What a great time we had. The weather was perfect, too with little need for anything warmer than a light winter jacket. We needed to stay overnight in Las Vegas and did the obligatory wandering on the strip. For me the fountains at Bellagio were the only worthwhile attractions for me. Too many crowds, too much smoke and wretched excess. The next morning, though, we stopped at the Green Valley Ranch casino for breakfast at their Pancake House which had great pancakes and a much calmer spirit. From there we went to Grand Canyon and stayed at El Tovar. We enjoyed the rim trail and the South Kaibab Trail down to Cedar Ridge. It was challenging,but beautiful. The Ooh Ah point was just that. So much more interesting than the Bright Angel which I'd been on before. We attended the ranger program on the California condors and were awed by a condor that flew within 20 feet of us. The Lipan point from the East Rim Dr. was well worth a stop for the vista. Don't miss it. We found the food to be overpriced and not that good. We did not go to the steakhouse at Bright Angel Lodge or the El Tovar restaurant. We wanted more casual. I think we'd prepare more sandwiches if we did it over. We were surprised that the GC grocery store offered better prices and more variety than the store in Tusayan outside the park. The cafeteria in Marketplace was the best food we had. We drove through Page on our way up to Zion and had some great burgers at the Sandwich Shop in the Albertsons shopping center. It was a mom and pop place with outdoor and indoor seating. In Springdale we stayed at the Desert Pearl Inn which got rave reviews on this site. It was the best place we've ever stayed. The rooms were spacious with 2 qn. beds and a sleeper sofa. Each unit has a fridge, microwave, paper plates, etc. We stayed on the Riverside with a peaceful view of the river and the red cliffs. Each unit has a great patio. The pool was too cool this time of year, but the jacuzzi was great. Can't say enough about this place. At $113 per night it was a bargain for our family. We enjoyed the food at Oscar's and Zion Pizza and Noodle. The Spotted Dog had good food but our service was lousy. Prejudice vs. a family? Who knows. It was disappointing. Zion was a highlight for me. We hiked to the Emerald Pools and spent more than an hour at the pools, climbing over rocks and taking in the views. We also made multiple stops on the e/w drive through the park. We also did the Riverside walk and took an hour long horseback ride. The food at the lodge was good and varied.We took a day trip to Bryce where we hiked the Queens Garden trail and part of the rim trail. Many of the trails were closed and the horse back riding was not offered this early in the season. We enjoyed the scenery, but couldn't appreciate it as much as if we could have hiking more. On the way back to Zion, we took a longer scenic trip North and West of it by going through the mountains which was beautiful. IF you planned it right, you could ski for $10 on Tuesdays at the Brians Head resort. You'd have it to yourself this time of year. There was plenty of snow. On the West side of Springdale just south of Rockville is the Grafton ghost town. Just a few old buildings, but fun for our 12 yr. old. We were most intrigued to see that the restorers were making adobe bricks to rebuild crumbling facades.The driving we did was not too much, especially since the views were spectacular. We might have liked Sedona, but are very happy that we went to Zion and Bryce. Our Junior Ranger liked getting to fulfill the requirements to get her badges at all three parks. Going at this time of year helped us avoid big crowds so we really had a relaxing time. Thanks to all of you for your tips. We hope we have encouraged others to take the same trip. We hated to end our vacation, but now have lasting memories.

MaryZ

What did you think of El Tovar?

utahtea

Great Trip Report!

I'm glad to hear they are working on restoring Grafton. We were there for the first time in 1981. It must have been right after they made the TV movie "The Child Bride of Short Creek". The town was in such good condition then. Over the years we've seen so much vandalism. I hope they fix it up and protect the town. If you ever get a chance to see that movie you will see what Grafton use to look like. Butch Cassity and the Sundance Kid bicycle seen was also filmed in Grafton.

Utahtea

MacNaughton

Mary Z, El Tovar was nice, but nothing special. I think the cache is the lobby area and the porches--and anyone can take advantage of those. The bathroom was nice and roomy, but the furnishings were a bit worn. Considering that the shuttle stop and the choice of restaurants, coffee shop, ice cream stand, etc. is at Bright Angel, I'd probably book there if I were to do it over. Utahea, I didn't know about the first movie you mentioned that Grafton was seen in. I'll have to check it out. A pamphlet I picked up at Grafton listed a website: www.graftonheritage.org

utahtea

Wow, Great web site on Grafton. You can see how nice that big house use to look. I should did up my old pictures. Unfortunately, most of them are on 110 film and not very good ;(

Utahtea

easytraveler

Great report! Thanks so much for sharing!

emd

MacNaughton, I'm just dying w/envy. I was supposed to be in Zion and Bryce this weekend for the first time, and the trip got postponed at last minute til May. Your comment about having it to yourselves this time of year is what is agonizing, as I planned the trip for March before the crowds hit. Now we are going in mid-May and the hotels are really booked, suggestive of the crowds. And I had a Desert Pearl room on the river reserved, but in May I can't get anything on the river or w/double queens at Desert Pearl so we are staying at Flanigan's. I hope it is not intolerably crowded, I really want the peace and solitude. Did you know that a spa has just opened at Flanigans, so you can get a massage, etc. after hiking?

MacNaughton

emd, I didn't know about the spa at Flannigans. You might get yourselves on the cancellation list for the Desert Pearl. We don't think we'll bet back to the area anytime soon, but I'd redo the Desert Pearl in an instant!

seniormsuedu

emd: flannigan's is lovely. it will not seem crowded. it goes up a small hill with a pool halfway. nice landscaping and restaurant. bus to the park stops in front. spectacular views of red cliffs (just like desert pearl) and a block from the small downtown.

emd1

thank you for your kind words, seniormsuedu...it helps me look forward to May!

tinamidon

I would appreciate more details of how many nights/days at each location...we are planning similar trip in July with 2 kids 13 & 10. Fly into Las Vegas on a Friday afternoon; that night in vegas; next two nights booked at GC Bright Angel cabins...want to tie in Bryce, Zion, Lake powell?, what else? Should bryce or zion be before GC? If so, I need to be changing my res asap...We will fly out of Vegas 10 days later. Any thoughts? We are not big hikers, but will do some. None of us have EVER been West...want to see as much as possible without under-estimating the drive in the car...thoughts?

utahtea

To Tinamidon,

I would do the Grand Canyon first, then Lake Powell, Bryce and save Zion for last. Two nights at the GC is good.

Depending on what you want to do at Lake Powell I would plan two or three nights. There is so much to do at Lake Powell, boat tours on Lake Powell, Antelope Slots Canyon, float trip on the Colorado River and a very short hike to Horseshoe Bend.

Two nights at Bryce and then two or three nights at Zion National Park. I'm sure your children will like intertubing on the Virgin River during the heat of the day...I know our boys did.

I wouldn't plan any other locations with the time you have, but you have plenty of time to really enjoy these parks.

We did pretty much the same trip last year. Here is a link to our 2003 Vacation Pictures:

http://utahtea.lithium.com/pictures....ation.list.htm

Utahtea

MacNaughton

Utahtea is your expert. He gives great advice. The only thing I'd add is that there seems to be more to see and do at Zion than at Bryce.

emd

MacNaughton: Just FYI, Utahtea is a woman. She is a grandma to boot- and she sure gets around the sothwest! I'm sure she got a kick out of your post. I wonder what made you think she was a man...

emd

p.s. and she has a pet moose. really.

utahtea

tinamidon

Okay, I have gone ahead & reserved riverside room at Desert Pearl for 2 nights...any highly recommended lodgings for Lake Powell area anyone?

MacNaughton

Utahtea, I'm clueless why I assumed you were a male. And a pet moose? Who knew. Tinamidon, You won't be disappointed in the Desert Pearl!
female MacNaughton

Dayle

People do seem to just look over the edge at Bryce Canyon. The best, though, is to get up close and personal with the hoodoos by hiking down into the canyon. What a different perspective! There are hikes of all lengths, so take your pick!

In the areas fairly close by:

Devil's Backbone - quite an awesome sight. About 30 miles of graded, gravel road and worth it.

Kodachrome Basin - very close outside the town of Tropic - again, best at sunset for pics.

Drive out Cottonwood Rd past Kodachome St. Park to Grosvenor Arch. One of the most impressive arches I've ever seen. Only if weather permits - the road becomes completely impassible in the rain - it's pure clay - slick!

Have fun!

Beachvan

We also just had a much too brief trip of the circle from Las Vegs to the Grand Canyon, Zion and Bryce. Only spent 2 nights at Yavapai Lodge at Grand Canyon, which translated to 1.5 days considering travel. Not nearly long enough to hike, but only to get an idea and perspective of how
long the next trip should be!! Ate a meal at El Tovar's Dining Room and did not think it worth the price for the quality of food, although the atmosphere was good. We basically just took the buses and spent the day at the various view points. Lodge was comfortable (the newer remodeled, North Yavapai, not the cabins). Drove through Page and saw Lake Powell, but had to put that on the list of things to do next time and to plan a couple of days for a boat trip.
Stayed at the wonderful Desert Pearl Inn in Springdale and do not feel anyone has overstated how nice it really is. As comfortable and well designed as some 4 star hotels I have stayed at a fraction of the cost. Flannigans' Spotted Dog Cafe was the choice for
our eats. Drove to Bryce and back in one day. The buses were not up and running yet, so we just drove and hit some of the view points for some awesome scenery. Ate a good lunch at the Lodge and put it, along w/ the horse ride, on our list for next time. Spent the final day at Zion and walked the Riverwalk to the Narrows.
What a beautiful place. It actually rivals Sedona, which I had thought
impossible. Definately on our list to
spend several days. Back to Las Vegas where we stayed 2 miserable
days smelling stale smoke in the casino at The Orleans. The room was large and comfortable, but no public area downstairs was bearable to breath. Will definately not make that mistake on the next trip and just try to drive as far from Vegas as possible to stay the night. Thanks so much for all the very helpful advice on the National Parks as well as the wonderful tip for Springdale's accommodations and restaurants.