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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 02:23 AM
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National Park Road trip for Aussies

Hi fellow travellers. I have received so much useful information from fellow fodorites (many of whom are American!) in previous travels to Europe and Canada but now have some planning to do for the US and hope someone can offer some guidance on a very preliminary question.

Many years ago my sister and I road tripped from Los Angeles and covered GC, Bryce, Zion, Las Vegas, Yosemite, San Francisco and then back down the coast to LA to depart home.
(I think in about 12 days.)

My husband hasn't been to most of these places with the exception of SF.

After some reading I have decided that I would like to add Yellowstone, Grand Teton (and maybe Glacier) to this itinerary and possibly Washington state where we have a friend we would like to visit if possible.

So, here are my very preliminary questions:

If we had a month, would this be feasible? If not, suggestions on trimming down?

When would be the optimum time to go, given that obviously it is probably different for each region?

Depending on the answer to question two I guess, could we wing it (or some places?) accommodation wise? (My sister and I booked nothing in advance but that was November 1998!)

We are both 50 plus, love photography, easy hiking and don't mind a long drive now and then (we are Australian after all.) We usually stay in self catering in Europe but realise this may not suit this trip.

Finally, I AM wading through trip reports and doing my research but so far have found lots of' 'two week' type trips typically covering some of what we want to do but not many putting the two areas together.

Many thanks for any advice!
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 03:38 AM
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Getting the exact right time of year will be a problem. I would suggest mid May to mid June - or all June - to be sure everything is open - yet you won;t hve the worst of the summer heat and the kids will still be in school.

I would have advance reservations everywhere - and for national parks I would get them now - since they often sell out far in advance.

Can't comment on exact timing - since we have only done parts of the trip - and then not all together. But you do have an awful lot of different places listed - esp the visit to Washington, which is a real outlier.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 03:38 AM
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The coast from San Francisco to LA is very spectacular too. I assume you will include that section. Probably take you 2-4 days to do that.

Having been to all of the places you mention. LA would be my least favorite. I wouldn't spend more than a day/night at Las Vegas. While the Grand Canyon offers the most "wow factor" for a first view, it really has the least to do of any park unless you want to do some serious hiking or spend 5-10 days rafting it. So, you can do it in a day.

You probably would want to include a day in Arches National Park in Utah too. It is just as spectacular as Bryce and Zion, IMOP.

Mount Rainier, in Washington, is a really great park as well.
I really like Sequoia National Park(the trees there are a bit better than Yosemite, but doesn't have the waterfalls or the crowds).

I think you could probably do most of it in a month. You would definately need reservations at all "in park" lodging. I love the historic lodges. It would require some detailed planning, but is doable.

The problem with Yellowstone/Grand Tetons and Glacier is they are so far away from everything. Yellowstone and Yosemite are probably my favorite two parks.

Get a National Park Pass for you trip and save some $$$.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 04:50 AM
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You have some good advice here. I would guess that Glacier will be the outlier if you want to do it all in a month and not have it beastly hot in the Utah parks and be mostly past snow season for Grand Teton and Yellowstone (although there will probably still be snow in spots here), as suggested, start in late May/early June. You will also need to decide if you want mostly park time with limited city time or if you want to explore the cities for a few days too.

If you decided on a mostly parks trip and started in late May/early June, one possible route would be to fly in to LA, drive up the coast to a little above Monterey (2.5 days for jet lag and drive), then head east to Yosemite (2.5 days for drive and hiking/photos), on to Las Vegas (1 day) then Arches(2 days for drive and hiking), Bryce(1.5 days for drive and hiking), Grand Canyon (north rim drive and hiking 1.5 days ) then over to Moa1 day for drive with stops for spectacular scenery) for Arches(1.5 days) and Canyonlands (1.5 days), up 191 (1 day for drive) to Grand Teton(2 days) and Yellowstone (2days). Then head for Washington (1.5 days) to visit your friend and maybe visit Olympic (1.5 days) and fly home out of Seattle.

I hope this gives you a start for a plan and does leave a few days to spend at one or another spot along the way. There will be folks who will say that you should not try to do so much, rather spend more time in fewer parks. That is not my style. I don't pack and unpack every day, just put the dirty clothes in a laundry bag, and pull out what I'll wear the next day. Do laundry in the evening when needed.

The suggestion to pick up a National Park pass at your first park is a good one. Also pick up an inexpensive cooler and some ice and keep snacks, lunch food, drinks for those places without facilities. Also, fill your gas tank before any long drive and any time you get to a half tank as sometimes there are no places open for miles.

Have a wonderful trip.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 05:25 AM
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As noted previously, one problem you are going to run into is that any time of the year that the weather is bearable in the desert national parks, it will be unbearable in Glacier and possibly even Yellowstone. In June, for instance, it's already hot at the Grand Canyon, Glacier will still be covered in snow (the main road didn't open till June 19 this year), and even Yellowstone has 'iffy' weather. Any earlier will make Glacier out of the question, any later will make the deserts unbearably hot.

My suggestion is thus to make a loop of California and desert NP's, and then head north along the Pacific Coast; and to do so in May or June. Visiting places early in the summer makes finding vacancies a LOT easier to do, thus giving you quite a bit more flexibility.

*IF* you are willing to camp while visiting national parks (and this is HIGHLY recommended -- there's nothing like waking up to a sunrise in a NP campground)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pr77x/8...57626493804109
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pr77x/8...7626493804109/
then you'll get even more flexibility.

As you head north, you can see Lassen Volcanic NP, Crater Lake NP, the coast of Oregon, the Columbia River Gorge, and maybe even get into Washington State. When done, just rush down back to where you picked up your car, and remind the clerk at the counter that you did get "unlimited" mileage.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 05:57 AM
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I would plan your trip for September (anytime after the first Monday which is Labor Day holiday) as that is when the kids are back in school, the temps in the desert parks are cooling off and you can still beat the snow in the northern parks. October would be less crowded, but you may have to dodge a snow storm in the north. I also would reverse the trip, going north first, swinging south later in the month, again for the weather.

Fly into SF, rent a car and head north to the California coast to see the coastal redwoods in Redwoods NP. Swing by Crater Lake NP in Oregon, return to the coast and head to Washington. Hit Olympic and Mt Rainier NP's and your friends home in Washington before heading across to Glacier. The Going to the Sun Road in Glacier is a highlight of the park, so much so that if you go in the spring and you find that it is not open yet I would skip that park.

From Glacier head to Yellowstone then Grand Teton. From there drive to Mohab for Canyonlands and Arches, then head to Capital Reef. Hop on Hwy 12 to Bryce, the north side of the Grand Canyon and then Zion on your way to Las Vegas.

From Vegas map a return to SF either via the NP's in central California or the coastal route.

The US has lots of reasonably priced chain hotels (Hampton Inn, Best Western, La Quinta, etc., that serve a free breakfast.) Do the cooler idea for snacks and drinks and then eat local for dinners.

All the NP's have hikes of all lengths and ability levels. Most of these parks trails are in the mountains so hiking boots would be helpful as well as a light backpack to carry your own water. Clothes wise for fall you would be fine with layers, a fleece and light rain jacket for the north would be fine.

What a great adventure you have before you. Have fun!
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 06:13 AM
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Barb,
A lot of the places in Glacier and Yellowstone close after the first week in Sept.

Day 1 Fly to Los Angeles Drive to Vegas
Day 2-5 Drive coast towards San Fran
See Channel Islands National Park
Hearst Castle
McWay Falls
Point Lobos State Park
Monterey bay Aquarium
I really like Kayaking in Elkhorn Slough near Monterey

Day 6 & 7 San Francisco
Cable Cars, Chinatown, Fisherman’s Wharf(I like the Segway tour there), North Beach area-which is Little Italy area, Golden Gate park, and Golden Gate Bridge

Day 7-11 Yosemite and Sequoia National Parks
See The Valley area in Yosemite. Take tram up to Glacier Point and hike back down to the valley along the Panorama Trail-it connects to the Mist Trail about half way down. See Yosemite Falls and Bridal Falls.
Stay at Yosemite Lodge or in one of the Tent Cabins
See Giant Forest Museum in Sequoia and walk Congress Trail. If you don’t do Sequoia, then see Wawonna are in Yosemite for the giant trees.
Sunday Brunch is good at The Awanhee

Day 12 Drive to Vegas-could drive thru Death Valley. It will be super hot-be careful
Day 13 Vegas-See Belagio Fountains, Volcano eruption, a Cirque Show, Lights

Day 14-15 Grand Canyon.
See Sunrise and Sunset here(don’t take the train, it is a waste of time and money, IMOP)
Have a meal in El Tovar. Stay in Bright Angel Lodge or El Tovar
Perhaps horse/mule ride here. Perhaps a short hike down into the canyon a bit

Day 16 Drive to Zion

Day 16 & 17 Zion
Stay @ Zion Lodge if you can(in Springdale would be my 2nd choice)
I love The Narrows hike and Angel’s Landing. The Narrows could have to much water in May and Angel’s Landing is a pretty tough hike mentally and physically. Emerald Trails is good and Canyon Overlook Trail is good.

Day 18 Bryce
Bryce Lodge would be my first choice for lodging. Ruby’s would be my 2nd.
Hike Navajo Loop/Queens Garden, See Sunrise and Sunset, Ride horse into canyon

Day 19 HWY 12 Drive to Arches/Moab—
Stop at Kiva Koffeehouse along the way, stop @ Gifford House in Capitol Reef for a piece of pie, see Orchards and perhaps pick fruit there in Capitol Reef. Do Not Miss Goblin Valley State Park on your way.



Day 20
Hike to Delicate Arch & Landscape Arch. See Balanced Rock, Double Arch, The Windows-these are all a short distance from the car(10 minutes or so).

Day 21 long day drive to Grand Teton
Stay @ Signal Mountain Lodge, Jackson Lake Lodge, or Colter Village

Day 22 Grand Tetons

Day 23-25 Yellowstone. All the roads may not be open until 2nd or 3rd week of June, depending on how much snow. Stay 1 night @ Old Faithful Inn, 1 night @ Lake Hotel, and 1 night @ Roosevelt area/cabins
Spend a full day looking at the geyser basin around Old Faithful. My favorites are Castle Geyser and Riverside Geyser. See wildlife in Hayden and Lamar Valley’s, See Canyon area

Day 26 Drive to Glacier. The problem is that the Going to the Sun Road might not be open in June.
I would be much more worried here than at Yellowstone. Definitely save this one for the last part or the trip. Overnight in Many Glacier Hotel.

Day 27-28 Glacier

Day 29 Drive to Seattle-Pike Market
Day 30-33 Seattle and possibly Mount Rainier
I think the best thing about Mt. Rainier is the wildflowers. I think June would be very early for them.
It is an awesome mountain though.
A drive to San Juan Islands and do some whale watching there is really good. If you do decide on whale watching go with James Maya.

You could, have you friend meet you for a couple of day in Portland instead of Seattle. Do Portland and Columbia River Gorge instead.

You would still need a day or two to get back to LA or you could fly from Seattle.

You might enjoy swinging through Redwoods National Park on your way back through California.
The trees there are taller than Yosemite or Sequoia but aren’t nearly as big in circumference.
I like Stout Grove, Prairie Creek area, and Fern Canyon at The Redwoods.


You can do Utah and Grand Canyon anytime in May or June. The longer you get into June the hotter it will be. Yellowstone might be completely open the last week of May, but more than likely more towards the middle of June and it could be only like 75% open then. Glacier stand a really good chance of not being open until Late June, and is even somewhat likely not to be open then. When I say “open”, I mean fully open . Mount Rainier is fantastic, but would be a shame to miss the wildflowers and they come later. Probably the best time to see Yosemite would be the 1st or 2nd week of June.
Yosemite and Yellowstone tend to be really crowded in July and August.
Do be aware that May 24, 25, 26, 27(2013) is a holiday weekend and will be super busy at most of these places. Maybe try to do a city during that time, like San Francisco.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 06:20 AM
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You might enjoy this more--consider doing just one of these two options:

May/June—Do a trip that includes just Utah, Grand Canyon, and California

July-Do a Yellowstone, Glacier, Washington, and Oregon Trip
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 09:39 AM
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I've been to all of the parks you mentioned. You can also look at my photos at:
www.travelwalks.com

I was in Glacier National Patk with my daughter this past August. We were there for only 4 days and had the most amazing combination of scenery. wlidlife and several waterfalls.

Since I only spent most of 4 days in Glacier I decided to go back for a longer period next August. I believe the problem will be matching the weather (four cloudless warm days), wildlife and scenery.

The problem with Glacier is that it has a very short season. Essentially August.

That may cause some heat issues in the Utah Parks.

I guess you could go to Glacier in early August, then Yellowstone and Grand Tetons and then on to Utah from east to west.

I don't know if you've been to the Grand Canyon or intend to fit it in.

Considering all of the other parks so far, the Grand Canyon is my least favorite of all.

I would even pick some of the non-park destinations in Utah over GC. However, I wouldn't encourage you to skip it if you haven't been. You'll want to be able to go home, tell people you saw the Grand Canyon and that you saw such great sights that the Grand Canyon rates at the bottom. Just my opinion.

In Glacier you can't beat the Many Glacier area of the park. The most scenic hikes and wildlife.

Yellowstone is more of an attraction park. ess pure scenery but the geyser area, some wildlife and spectacular waterfalls. There are many waterfalls although only a few get the buzz.

Grand Tetons are more spectacular scenery and only a few attractions.

Arches and Bryce are very different parks. Their personality alone makes them excellent destinations.

My least favorite of the Utah parks are Canyonlands though you will be right next to it with Arches and capitol Reef which you will go right thru between Arches and Bryce.

As you go from north to south the season gets longer (although Utah can be hot in the dessert.

Arches is in some elevation and Bryce is even higher. Zion could get hot.

I haven't been to WA or OR so you'll have to take that from others.

Most people may not think of it but if you start in Glacier and end in California, you may want to start by arriving in Calgary. It's a major airport and only 4 hours (and a very smooth easy drive) from the Many Glacier area of Glacier park. (Be aware that Canada also has a Glacier National Park).

If you want to you could start with a few days in Canadian national Parks such as Banff (Banff, Lake Louise and the famour Moriane Lake) and Jasper. Banff is only an hour from Calgary.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 09:52 AM
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I forgot to mention Yosemite. I don't know if that's in your plan.

Yosemite is beautiful but I'll have a had time convincing myself to go back there.

It's the most commercial park I've been to. Everything is set up to get you to buy a ticket to something.

Their visitor are placed after their potential to sell a meal or event to people coming in for several hours on a tour bus.

just venting.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 11:54 AM
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Suggest you go in early to mid May - and try to plan around the start of the summer season. If you are used to camping - you could buy some inexpensive gear (a couple sleeping bats, mats, tent, etc) for under $200 (see Big 5 Sporting Goods, etc) and have a lot more options as to where to stay without having been tied down to a lot of reservsations.

Most of the campgrounds are in pretty good shape and have showers, cooking pits, etc, as well as small stores, cafes in the area, whatnot. As suggested - get a small cooler to keep in the back seat - to act as your mobile fridge.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 11:56 AM
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BTW - love the Grand Canyon and consider it a must see.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 12:13 PM
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We have spent the last almost ten years touring National Parks for the month of September. You will find fewer crowds, with most services still operating but at reduced hours. By the end of September in Glacier I can imagine things shutting down, but if you start in the north, then you will already be well into your trip and alot further south by the end of the month. If it works out better for you to go in the spring then I would skip Glacier and add those days elsewhere.

The idea of starting in the Canadian Rockies and then doing I assume a one way rental would only work if you can find a car company that would allow you to take the car into the US, and then not incur a huge drop off fee. The Canadian parks are stunning too.

Check out NPS.GOV for all kinds of info on the parks. I would try to hit as many of the parks that you feel comforable with in your alloted time.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 12:52 PM
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I thought of it earlier but Barblab mentioned it. You'll probably have a problem with a one-way rental from Canada.

So I would consider Kalispel or Great Falls as a starting point.

I think you have to decide on something early in the planning. What are the chances of another similar trip in the not to distant future? What I'd hate to have happen is having all the parks merge into a blur. However, if you're into photography you'll be able to separate things out after with the photos.

If you plan on the trip before June or after the first week of September you can write off Yosemite (Glacier Road will most like be Closed), Glacier NP will have the Going-to-the-Sun Road closed and Yellowstone will be in shutdown mode. I don't know how early Bryce gets snow so someone else will have to comment.

Other than for lodging I've only had one day (and it was on a Sunday) where the crowds were uncomfortable.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 01:13 PM
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Assuming you can get an Open Jaw ticket - you could also consider flying into Salt Lake City, Utah (or maybe Phoenix, or even Las Vegas) - and renting a car there for say two weeks or longer - whatever - and tour around the Utah/Northern Arizona/Montana areas - and then fly from Salt Lake/wherever to say San Francisco and rent a car there and drive down the Coast - and turn it in at LA or San Diego (where you fly back to Oz) - and that drop off charge usually isn't that expensive.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 01:15 PM
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Oops. You could also fit Yosemite into your plans when in California - say driving from SF to Yo - and then drive from there over to Carmel/Monterrey - and on down the coast.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 01:18 PM
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And if you are really road warriors - you could fly to Seattle from wherever, visit your friend and rent a car there and drive around WA a bit and then down the beautiful Oregon Coast, on thru the Redwoods, etc to the SF Bay Area, and continue on as noted above.

Not sure about the dropoff charges for that - but check www.carrentals.com, among other sites to get an idea.
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 01:19 PM
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Good morning everyone. Wow! Thanks so much for such comprehensive (and helpful) replies!
There is a lot to digest here so will have fun wading through and will be back with more questions no doubt. Seems like the timing/weather will require some careful thought.
Once again thank you to everyone who has taken the time to reply, really appreciate it and this info is exactly what I was after
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Old Oct 1st, 2012, 02:28 PM
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http://www.yosemitefun.com/yosemite_...e_to_visit.htm
Here is a link to this guys opinion on Yosemite. His least favorite month is Sept.

I know that Roosevelt Lodge in Yellowstone usually closes about the first week in Sept. I don't know if the rest do at that time or not? I'm not totally sure when the Glacier Lodges close. I do know that Granite closes pretty early, but it is a back country, so perhaps the others close later. The campgrounds all close sometime in September as well.

The positive thing about Sept, would be Elk would be in rut and crowds would be few, plus fall foliage would be nice. I think Yellowstone and Glacier would be good then, but not sure you could fit both of them in at that time. You are likely to not see waterfalls in Yosemite in Sept. And to me, I wouldn't go without seeing the falls(especially for a first or only visit).
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Old Oct 2nd, 2012, 07:37 AM
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You mentioned that you are into photography and since spiro mentioned Yosemite waterfalls I'll give you my assessment.

Glacier only has a small number of waterfalls that you can see close up unless you are hiking in the back country.

Waterfalls such as St Mary and Virginia are relatively short hikes and are beautiful waterfalls that you can get up close to.

Yellowstone has a relatively large number of waterfalls that are easily accessable. When I was there I was on a mission to find them. Yellowstones falls are varied in size and shape and many are very close to the road or parking areas.

I was a bit disappointed in Yosemite's waterfalls even though I was there when they were full and roaring.

Other than Vernal Falls it's difficult to get up close to the larger falls and from a distance the all look pretty much the same and have a string appearance.

I don't remember waterfalls in Arches, Bryce, Capitol Reef or Zion.
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