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My marvellous first trip to the US - NYC, Boston and Hawaii

My marvellous first trip to the US - NYC, Boston and Hawaii

Old Sep 3rd, 2011, 04:06 PM
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My marvellous first trip to the US - NYC, Boston and Hawaii

Firstly I want to thank all the fabulous Fodor's contributors who helped with answers to various questions I posted in the lead up to this holiday. I am so grateful to you all.

We are a party of 4 women who decided to celebrate our 55th birthdays with a trip to NYC. 3 of us had celebrated our 50th birthdays together in Paris and decided to continue the theme and are already planning somewhere marvelous for our 60th birthdays. Our husbands are all lovely men who drove us to the airport, waved us goodbye and off we went. We were very excited and as we had been planning this trip for about 18 months, we could hardly believe our departure day had finally arrived!

We had mulled over lots of options as to which parts of the US to explore, but NYC was always the primary destination. In the end we decided on 10 nights in NYC, 3 in Boston, 1 in Niagara Falls and then 5 nights in Waikiki to break the trip on the way home.


DAY ONE – Thursday May 19, 2011 departure.

Nothing remarkable at all about our flights thank goodness. We departed Sydney Kingsford Smith Airport on time at about 10am. Given that we were flying economy and we wanted to be as comfortable as possible I had booked seats I was familiar with, and that I feel are the best seats in economy. They are the window and aisle seats towards the back of the plane, in the section where the plane starts to narrow off and there are only two seats rather than three. I’ve had comments that they are close to the toilets, but that isn’t really true and the benefit is that the shape of the plane provides a space where spare pillows/blankets etc can be tossed when not needed.

We flew Qantas and we were well looked after. I had been dreading the change in LAX as I knew we only had about 90 minutes and that we would tired by then, plus Osama Bin Laden had been disposed of only a week or two prior and we weren’t certain if security would be more intense than usual. I had read posts on Fodor’s about how awful the staff are at LAX and that the airport is dirty. However, I have nothing but praise for the staff at LAX. As we departed our plane, all the passengers going through to NYC (most of us) were handed an orange DL size card with EXPRESS (from memory) stamped on it. As we made our way from one part of the airport to another we showed the orange cards and we were all processed very swiftly and made the next flight with about 20 minutes to spare.

We arrived in JFK at about 5.30pm, collected our luggage and easily met up with the car we had hired to drive us into the city. By this time we were really starting to tire as we had been travelling for about 21 hours, although I did manage to sleep for a fair bit of the LAX – JFK leg.

We had booked 4 rooms at The Inn on 23rd www.innon23rd.com and were warmly welcomed. We had booked a room each and loved the quirky themes of each one. We dumped our bags and headed out for a stroll to clear our heads and get our bearings a little. Then had a quick dinner at The Guilty Goose which is next door to the inn and owned by the same people. We weren’t terribly hungry so we shared 2 burgers, fries a salad and a bottle of Italian Pino Grigio. We were in bed by 11pm and I must admit by the time my head hit the pillow I was exhausted to the point of feeling slightly dizzy.

Before deciding on The Guilty Goose we had planned on eating at Eatally which was just around the corner from the Inn but when we arrived it was very busy and there was at least a 30 minute wait for a table which we were too tired to bother with. It looked great though and we made ourselves a promise to return.
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Old Sep 3rd, 2011, 04:29 PM
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I am so glad you had a great time. Please come back again and next time visit the glorious South!!!! Happy birthday.
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Old Sep 3rd, 2011, 04:30 PM
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Thanks cmcfong, I'd love to visit the south! Qantas are now flying into Dallas Fort Worth which makes a trip to the south very easy.
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Old Sep 3rd, 2011, 04:36 PM
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Day 2 – Friday 20 May
I woke at about 6am feeling refreshed but seriously deprived of caffeine. It was far too early for breakfast at the Inn so I threw on some clothes and dashed a few doors down to a little general store/grocer that I had spotted the night before. Pre made coffee was available from a machine so I served myself and not knowing how strong or bitter it might be I grabbed a couple of sugars, paid, and headed back to the Inn. Well, that was my first experience of American coffee and I have to say it was dreadful. Thank goodness I tasted it before adding any sugar as it already had a weird sort of sweetness to it, a syrup of some sort perhaps. Anyway, I needed the caffeine so I drank it regardless.

Breakfast at the Inn was included in the price and it was lovely. It is provided by students from a nearby food college and while the general theme was bagels, hard boiled eggs, fruit, cereal and coffee, each day there was something home baked as well which was lovely. The left over bagels etc are left in the library / breakfast room for guests to help themselves to during the day if they want.

Before leaving home we had made some plans for this first day as I like to walk a lot on the first day after having been stuck on a plane for so long. I also agree with many others that fresh air helps alleviate jet lag. So we headed in the direction of the High Line Walk which was about a 15 minute walk from our accommodation. We spent about an hour wandering along it and enjoying the views and gardens. It’s a great use of space and I’d love to see it again in a year or two when the gardens are more established.

Our next stop was to the Gagosian Gallery on West 21st St to see a Picasso Exhibition that I found out about when somebody posted a link to it on Fodor’s. It focused on his time with Marie-Therese and their daughter when she was very little and we absolute loved it. So thanks to the person who posted the info about it, as I wouldn’t have known about it otherwise.

Lunchtime was approaching so we grabbed a cab and headed for the Chelsea Food Market which was only a few blocks away. There we wandered around inspecting the shops and then had a quick bite to eat.

It was still raining when we left the market so we grabbed a cab and headed for Bloomingdales where we were positively harassed by the staff in the cosmetics sections. I’ve never seen anything like it! Here in Sydney our department stores generally offer dreadful service in the cosmetics sections with a bare minimum of staff on most counters. Anyway, we had fun letting them demonstrate their latest products, plus we were positively gobsmacked by the prices which were cheaper by about half than we pay here.

We had booked a Sex & the City bus tour for the 2nd half of the afternoon. It was still raining and of course none of us had thought to bring a umbrella. We were meeting the bus for the tour at the park just across from the Plaza Hotel. The tour was about 30 minutes late and by the time the bus pulled up most of us looked like drowned rats! Not to worry, we piled on the bus, but not until about 60 women had given a mouthful of cheek to a couple of guys who thought they would try to queue jump! The tour was fun and we were glad we booked it, our guide was great and made it a very entertaining few hours.

We finished the day with a quick walk around Time Square and then dinner in a nearby Turkish Restaurant. I didn’t remember to take down the details unfortunately, but it was really lovely.

Then home to bed, it had been a long, long day!

Next Day 3 - in which we venture out of Manhattan!!
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Old Sep 3rd, 2011, 05:23 PM
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Enjoying your report!
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Old Sep 3rd, 2011, 05:29 PM
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Loving your trip report. I am reading all threads about NYC right now to prepare for an upcoming long weekend there in November. Your trip sounds like a lot of fun, I'd like to do the Sex and the City Tour I think. I also am picturing you and your friends with the cosmetics at Bloomingdales. Sounds like a blast!! I will look forward to your next installment.
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Old Sep 3rd, 2011, 06:16 PM
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cathies, I'm loving this! I had a good laugh when I read,

"Our husbands are all lovely men who drove us to the airport, waved us goodbye and off we went."

What a wonderful way to spend your birthdays with good friends. I'm looking forward to the rest of your report.
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Old Sep 3rd, 2011, 06:49 PM
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cathies, I really enjoy your report! How much were the rooms at the Inn? I checked the website and it says to call them for the best available rate. I look forward to the rest of your trip!
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Old Sep 3rd, 2011, 07:49 PM
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Waiting for the next episode . . .
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Old Sep 3rd, 2011, 10:23 PM
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sheri_ip I think the rooms were about $250 per night. We could have shared rooms but to be honest we decided that we are all at a stage of our lives where we need some alone time!
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Old Sep 3rd, 2011, 10:29 PM
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Day 3 - Saturday May 21.

In the morning we decided to explore the Brooklyn Market and then spend some time in Brooklyn. The market was ok, not unlike markets here in Sydney and we spent a few hours checking it out. For my birthday earlier in the year one of my gifts was a boxed set of NYC walking cards. Each morning I would grab the appropriate card and pop it in my bag in case we decided we wanted to use it. Today we did and really enjoyed our self-guided tour of Brooklyn. The Brooklyn walk focused on a section of Brooklyn Heights and we were enthralled with the pretty gardens, beautiful architecture and how house proud the residents of this part of Brooklyn are. We had planned on lunch at The River Café but hadn’t booked and as it was Saturday they didn’t have a vacancy. Plus it was a hot day and by that time we all looked like something the cat had dragged in and not very presentable at all. Not to worry, we found a nearby pub and had yet another delicious meal. I had a delicious pear, rocket, gorgonzola and chicken salad. Next stop was back to the Inn to freshen up and catch our breath. We had covered a lot of territory on the walk and were all a bit wrecked.

We had discussed a night out at a comedy club and decided this would be the night. Seats were available at the Gotham Comedy Club, which was less than a 5 minute walk away. The first two comedians were funny and we enjoyed them, then the main act began. It was a girl who was very funny and we were enjoying her routine, when I had a ‘light bulb’ moment. There was something in the way that she held the microphone and tilted her head that was familiar and I suddenly realized it was Anjelah Johnson! I had laughed myself silly watching her nail bar skit on youtube and was very pleased to watch her in action. She didn’t do the nail bar skit, but was hilariously funny anyway. Anyone who has been to a nail salon will relate, I’m sure. If you haven't already seen it I've included a link.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SsWrY77o77o

We had dinner while watching the show plus a few drinks and were in bed by about 11pm.

Next Day 4 - in which we attend a Gospel church service.
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Old Sep 4th, 2011, 11:51 AM
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cathies:

A few years ago we stayed at The Inn on 23rd Street. I agree about the warm welcome and very nice breakfast. I am looking forward to more of your report. Please do carry on.

sheri_ip - when we stayed at The Inn on 23rd street the rooms were all different prices. I did call because I was concerned that their website said they couldn't guarantee you your choice of room and was told that doesn't happen very often but something to keep in mind.

Sandy
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Old Sep 4th, 2011, 06:54 PM
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cathies and Sandy thanks for the info on the Inn- I think it looks so nice and in a good spot - for my "someday" trip to NYC!
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Old Sep 4th, 2011, 07:37 PM
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We walked by the Inn on 23rd St today - it looks very inviting!
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Old Sep 5th, 2011, 12:17 PM
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Day 4 - Sunday May 22.

I should take a minute to introduce us all to you. We have all been friends for years and years so we are comfortable together and got along very well on this trip. My friends are Karen who I met as an 18 year old when our then boyfriends played in a local cricket team. Erin whose future husband studied accountancy with Karen and her future husband. Julie, who went to the same school as me, although she started there the year after I left. However we had a mutual friend who brought us all together as young mums. We have all been friends for about 30 years now.

The previous night we had been joined by the Julie's sister and she spent the next few days with us. She lives in London and had been holidaying in the US and extended her trip so that she could spend a few days in NYC with us.

Today we were off to Harlem. We were keen to attend a church service, we aren't very religious but we were interested to experience gospel singing.

For the first few days while we got our bearings, we had been walking and catching cabs, but today was the day to start using the subway and buses. We bought our Metrocard passes, which were amazing value at $28 and provided unlimited travel on the subway and buses. We used those passes a lot over the next 7 days and they repaid us many times over. The Inn is very well placed with access to several subway lines. Depending on where we wanted to go we just turned left or right as we left the Inn and walked a block at the most to the line we needed.

The church service was great. We loved the way the people dressed in their ‘Sunday best’. The sermon was very hellfire and brimstone but the congregation loved it and joined in, including the lady behind me who repeatedly chimed in with a “ooooh yes” when she agreed with the preacher. A very modern lady in front us was following the bible readings on her ipad which impressed her neighbours. I loved the fact that they go to such an effort to dress up in their ‘Sunday Best’. We didn’t plan on staying for the entire service but we had been escorted to seats in the middle of a row and it was difficult to leave without causing any offence. Eventually there was an appropriate time and we took our leave.

Lunch after that at Sylvia’s which we knew was a tourist trap but what the hell, we are tourists! Well it was pretty awful! I had fried chicken and grits and waffles which isn’t a combination I ever need to repeat. The atmosphere in the restaurant was great. It was was packed with people enjoying their Sunday lunch and a gospel singer entertained us.

After lunch we used one of the NYC walking cards to explore a little of Harlem which we thoroughly enjoyed.

We then caught the subway to Central Park for a stroll around Strawberry Fields and that area of the park. Central Park was fabulous! I love that this busy, bustling city has such a huge expanse of peaceful parkland. We had booked lunch at The Boathouse restaurant for the Tuesday so we checked out where the restaurant was before heading back into the thick of things again. Back in Bloomingdales the range of products and the prices had us intrigued. I paid $70 for a Lancome eye cream that would retail for about $130 in Sydney. Plus the Australian dollar is in great shape at the moment so shopping is a real treat!

Then on to the Frick Museum which I loved. It’s an amazing collection in a beautiful building. We spent a few hours wandering around exploring and taking it all in.

Dinner that night at was Eatally – we put our names on the wait list for a table at the pizza restaurant and then grabbed a table at a wine bar and shared a bottle of wine. Julie and I were trying to choose a bottle of wine and were very pleased when the bartender offered us a tasting of the couple that we were undecided about. The others couldn't work out why it took so long for us to buy a simple bottle of red!

After our wine we enjoyed delicious thin crust pizzas and another bottles of red. It was then an easy stroll around the corner to the Inn. It hasn’t taken us at all long to get our bearings, NYC really is easy to navigate.

Again we were back at the Inn by about 11pm.

Tomorrow - Day 5 - more shopping and The Guggenheim
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Old Sep 7th, 2011, 01:40 AM
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Day 5 - Monday May 24 - Nordstroms, The Guggenheim and a fabulous meal in a very funky restaurant.

First thing the next morning we headed to the Nordstroms Rack store in the Flatiron district. One of the girls needed better walking shoes and a different bag as the leather one she had brought with her weighed a tonne! We sorted that out for her and then strolled back to the Inn to drop off her purchases and some we had made for ourselves. We came across a shop called Restoration Hardware and wandered through. It’s a homeware shop and just gorgeous. I bought some cushion covers, two in a soft blue/grey shade and one that is rectangular and a bit vintage looking in a straw colour and has the address 8 Rue du Cherche Midi stamped on it. This wouldn’t be remarkable except that when I went to Paris with two of the girls on this trip we stay in an apartment further along Rue du Cherche Midi and No 8 is the address of the Poilane bakery that we visited each morning for our pastries. It’s such a famous bakery that I just had to have the cushion cover.

In the afternoon we went to The Guggenheim, which took our breath away. We loved all the galleries we visited and I’m sure there are dozens more to see. I loved The Guggenheim in every way; the Frank Lloyd Wright architecture is amazing as is the collection.

We weren’t in a hurry to get anywhere, so we strolled down 5th Avenue for a few blocks, until we ran out of energy and then used our nifty Metro Cards to catch a bus to West 29th Street and headed for the Ace Hotel. After a drink at the bar we had dinner in The Breslin. I had scallops that were so beautiful I took a photo of them for posterity! Then a duck salad that was also delicious. We were starting to find a trend in NYC restaurants, in that the food is very reasonably priced but the wine is more expensive than we are used to. It didn’t matter, it was just something to get our heads around. What a great restaurant, although I have to admit we would have been the least cool people there and older than most of the other diners by about 20 years! At one point we were amused by something and became a little too boisterous for such a hip restaurant and 2 staff appeared, as if by magic, to ask us to tone it down as we were upsetting the other guests. They did offer to close the curtains of our little booth if that would help.

After dinner we caught another bus to 23rd street and wandered back to the Inn. We'd had another great day and by now I was enthralled by New York City. Such an amazing city and the first time I was able to stand and look up an avenue for as far as I could see was breathtaking.
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Old Sep 7th, 2011, 02:08 AM
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Day 6 Tuesday May 25 - in which we explored The Met, joined “The Ladies Who Lunch” and attended the New York City Ballet.

Today we were off to The Met with one thing in mind. The Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty exhibition was at the top of our list and we weren’t disappointed. It was incredible to see those beautiful/weird/unwearable designs up close and personal. I have to admit to being absolutely gobsmacked when at one point from behind me, I heard a little girl’s voice say “look mummy, there’s the flower dress”. I can’t imagine any 5 year old Australian girl knowing so much about fashion that she recognized a particular dress. The flower dress is beautiful by the way, a long dress that is a mix of dried and fresh flowers. The exhibition provided a virtual biography of this very talented designer who is, unfortunately, no longer with us.

We spent so much time at the Savage Beauty exhibition that we cut short our time in the rest of The Met, but will return later in the week.

Today we had a pre-booked lunch at The Boathouse Restaurant in Central Park. We had a delicious Californian Chardonnay that was similar to my favourite Hunter Valley Chardonnay and lunch itself was really good. Erin was especially pleased to be there as her eldest son had proposed to his girlfriend earlier in the year in a boat on the pond. She was happy to see where the proposal took place.

After lunch we wandered back to the Inn and prepared for our first night at the New York City Ballet – yes we went to the ballet twice.

Karen and Julie and I have a subscription to the Australian Ballet here in Sydney, so it was always on the agenda to attend a ballet in NYC. Some months prior to the trip they had trusted me with the job of getting online and booking some tickets, which I did. Much to my amazement a few weeks after booking the tickets a little parcel arrived in the post from the NYC Ballet. It contained a gorgeous glossy booklet with the spring programme details and an invitation to book ½ price tickets,which we happily did!

We just had a quick dinner from a really good store we had found across the road from the Inn and headed for the subway. The Lincoln Centre is incredible and we did get a bit lost before we found the correct building. We love our Opera House but wow! The size of the Lincoln Centre and the variety of arts that it houses is amazing. We had time for a glass of champagne and then headed into the theatre.

The ballet was wonderful. We saw a quadruple bill, which for those who aren’t fans, is four shorter ballets rather than one full-length ballet. We love the Australian Ballet, but seriously, they look like amateurs compared to the NYC Ballet who are such beautiful dancers they took our breath away. One of the ballets was Afternoon of a Faun and from the moment the dancer playing the faun began to move it so easy to believe that he really was a faun.

Back to the Inn afterwards for a quick cup of tea, then into bed. It had been another long, fabulous day.

Tomorrow - Wednesday May 26 in which we explore the Top of the Rock, the Financial District, catch our breath on the Staten Island Ferry and have another amazing dinner.
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Old Sep 7th, 2011, 07:14 AM
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Enjoying your detailed report, but I'm dying to know - did you ever find any better coffee?!?
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Old Sep 7th, 2011, 08:51 AM
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cathies, I'm still enjoying every word in your TR. And a huge thanks to you and your friends for boosting our economy! I'm glad you enjoyed Lincoln Center & the ballet. The whole campus underwent a huge facelift the last few years and I agree it is quite nice now, esp in the summertime.
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Old Sep 7th, 2011, 10:20 AM
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Also enjoying the report, what a great way to explore NYC!
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