Mr. Maitai Goes To Washington - Capital Punishment Never Felt So Good!

Great report as usual. Can't wait for the rest. I was in D.C. MANY years ago, and my visit to the Jefferson Memorial was a drive-by..probably for the best. I did trudge the stairs to the Lincoln Memorial, and toured the White House. LBJ was president. We saw the Kennedy flame at Arlington.

Maybe your report will inspire me for another visit....or not. Depends on how much more walking you do...LOL

Oh great! Reading this is making me think twice about my vacation plans for next year!

Great start, again, enjoying the report.

Was it dark yet when you saw the monuments? They are truly magical at night (especially the Lincoln Memorial, and looking down the mall).

If you have time, try to eat at Central (one of Michal Ricards' restaurants), for a really great casual dining experience, don't miss the gourgeres (sp), if you do get there.

We've been to DC many times, most recently, last Thanksgiving weekend, one of my favorite cities (besides NY, of course).

Looking foward to the rest of your adventures.

owlwoman, It was dark by the time we climbed up the steps to The Lincoln Memorial. Yes, it was truly magical. Unfortunately, we did not make it to Central, but we did have some really good dining experiences.

Love reading about my city thru your eyes. I absolutely can not believe how much u did on your first day -- even with the 3 hours u had on EDT--very impressive.

I love the FDR memorial...one of my favorites in DC. When it first opened they allowed kids to play in the fountains, but u can imagine, that didn't last long, kids slipping, dogs running about shaking water on tourists, lawsuits and what not.

Anyway, looking forward to reading the rest.

Tom, Tracy, Kim, and Mary--together again.I'm tagging along on your vacation (or at least the report).

The best night view of DC is from the World War II Memorial looking towards the Lincoln Memorial. After nightfall, Lincoln is backlit and you can see him presiding over The Mall in all his glory. It's not nearly as spectacular during the day.

The view from the Lincoln Memorial looking over DC is spectacular at any time of day, but I recommend the WW II Memorial at night. It always brings an "Ahhhh" reaction from my tour clients.

The easiest way to see all the monuments for wimps is to do one of the hop on/hop off bus tours or a tour where the guide and bus wait for you as you see the site in question.

However, no matter how you do it, lots of walking is always involved.

Lauren, I do take exception to your comment that the guided tours are for wimps. I had no choice as my friend was on crutches with a broken leg. My grandmother is coming down in a few weeks and needs a guided bus to bring her around, due to having a stroke and needing a cane. Does that make her a wimp?

The night I was at the WW2 Memorial was a bad night as all the lights were out for some reason. It definitely made it seem strange. It was a disappointment. But I agree that the best way to see the monuments is at night.

"Does that make her a wimp?"

She was making at a joke at my trip report. Read the report and you will realize it's all in jest.

One addition:, If you walk the monuments at night, you might want to spray a little mosquito repellent on yourself, as I met a few tiny friends who left their calling card on me. The little Draculas love me for some reason.

Great trip report.

I did a long one for D.C. about 2 years ago.

We weren't wimps. LOL!

We walked for 6 days straight in snow that was more like the ice in snowcones or slurpies. (February)

We hit almost everything that wasn't closed for rennovation. And spent a day in Arlington Cemetary. And one day in old town Alexandria. But we hit many, many Smithsonians and L.of Congress, zoo, art etc. but Archives was our favorite.

Did all the memorials on foot and part of them in sleet. My SO is a Korean vet and for me, that one was the favorite. But they are all very much worth seeing. He went back at night to do a rainstorm watch at Vietnam with another vet.

And IMHO, especially within WWII's- doing it in the daytime you can get the visuals better. Just my HO. Many, many foreign visitors seek their own "parts" and "places" there. We had some interesting conversation, as well within the different groups.

I hope to go back with teenage grandkids sometime in the next 3 or 4 years.

Yes, the remark about "wimps" was meant as a joke. Doing the monuments, no matter how you do it--if you do it all in one day--is definitely not a wimp out.

By the way, I'm a licensed guide here and definitely no wimp.

Anyone who does DC on crutches at anytime in anyway is no "wimp". I was definitely NOT referring to you and your friend. It was a JOKE.

You can see the inscriptions on all the monuments much better in the daytime. Except for Lincoln and Jefferson, the lighting has problems. Bring a flashlight if you are going to go to Vietnam at night and look for a name.

I always say DC is not a vacation. It's a forced march.

DH's reply to your description of Rouge: "Let's go!!!"

Another trip report from Tom! Oh boy. Time to get a cup of tea and settle in for the read.

Wonderful, wonderful report.

I was happy to see that there would be time for a bathroom break on Tuesday and a quick shower on Friday.

Funny foreshadowing - unbelievably packed Day 1 - looking forward to the rest.

What a wonderful report, Tom. More, please.

I've been keeping an eye out for this report...looking forward to reading about your adventure!

I always enjoy reading your trip reports, maitaitom. If you decided to write about your trip to Home Depot, I'd make the time to read each and every word of that, too, lol.

I agree with you about the Vietnam War memorial. I was very young then and personally never knew anyone who served in that war, but seeing the memorial still brought tears to my eyes. It is indeed very moving.

Looking forward to the rest of your report--in particular, reading about the GTG! That should be interesting.

"in particular, reading about the GTG! That should be interesting."

A good, fun crowd, and, yes, I believe cocktails were involved. Working on Day Two. It will be posted tomorrow morning as long as I don't imbibe too many Limoncello martinis tonight.

Whew, that's a lot of walking. Personally, I did the night time bus tour of the monuments and enjoyed that.

DAY TWO: Sooner Or Waiter, By Georgetown We Like It, I Could Go Broke Here, Obama Vino, Exercise and Exorcise, Home And Gardens, An Extraordinary Martini and Party Like It’s 1789!

Even without donning the leopard underwear and camisole, Tracy and I slept great, and the benevolent Mary did not give us our wake up call until 8:30. The Hotel Rouge might be a little funky, but their beds were awfully comfortable.

Down in the bar that still had no one in go-go boots, I poured a cup of the complimentary Rouge coffee. One sip told me that this was not the place to grab the $11.95 continental breakfast. The coffee seemed to have all the needed ingredients, sans one…coffee!

On the agenda today was what Kim and Mary called a “free day,” but certainly not in the monetary sense. Our plan was to get over to Georgetown, check out the area as well as looking for the restaurant where we would dine that evening. If we had time, Tracy would also get her garden fix. We could have hailed a cab, but since our feet had no memory of the previous evening, the group decided to walk.

We had not been walking for ten minutes when I said to Kim, “Jack’s (the restaurant where the infamous 2009 Fodorite Get Together would take place later in the week) is supposed to be located very close to here.”

Laughing and pointing, he said, “It’s closer than you think.”

Sure enough, we were about ten feet away. “Maybe, we’ll check out their cocktails before Thursday night’s event,” I said in a moment of foreshadowing.

Shortly thereafter we strolled through DuPont Circle looking for a spot to have breakfast, but before you could say famished, we trudged onward through residential territory to Georgetown.

Since it had now been about 17 hours since our last meal, we ducked into one of the first restaurants we saw, Le Pain Quotient (we have one where we live, too) to enjoy their breakfast. Seated upstairs, we ordered and waited for our food to be delivered. And we waited. And we waited.

I had seen one of the wait staff carefully navigate the staircase and deposit a tray of hot food on a shelf relatively close to our table. At first, it didn’t mean anything to me.

Soon, our waiter started serving food to people who had come after us, and the tray of now not-so-hot food stayed on the shelf. Patience for me on this Sunday morning was not a virtue and not in the cards.

Looking at it from afar, but not that far, the now cooling-by-the-second food on the tray looked very much like the order for our table.

“I’m just going to go see if that is our food,” I said.

The table vetoed me, and we waited. And we waited.

After another five minutes and no sign of our waiter I said, “To hell with it, if that’s our food, I’m getting it!”

Before anyone could say “chocolate croissant,” I was at the shelf and, sure enough, there was our not-anywhere-near-hot breakfast.

Showing off my deft Garçon-like skills, I plucked the tray, which sadly weighed quite a bit more than I expected, from the shelf. Staggering back toward the table, I nearly spilled the contents on the people at the table adjacent to us, but I ultimately was able to successfully bring the contents to our table.

“Bonjour, Je m’appelle Tom. I will be your surrogate waiter this morning. Mary, I believe you had the Tartine with egg salad. Tracy, you are having the Quiche Lorraine. Kim, here is your chicken pesto and Tom, even though you are not seated because the idiot who was supposed to be doing this has gone AWOL, please enjoy your Gruyere Omelette.”

Later, our waiter came by, but never said a word. Not so coincidentally, never have I tipped less.

The day was sunny and beautiful (and thankfully not too humid). We walked down to the Potomac where the restaurants with outdoor patios were filling up for lunch on this beautiful day. I think if we lived here they would be great places to hang out, but for our one day Georgetown tour, we very much liked the shops and restaurants in Georgetown proper much better.

As we walked back from the river, I heard someone say, “Hey, look at those two asses over there.” For once, neither of them were Kim and me.

I looked over and there they were. “Hey, who is that person calling an ass? We’re just two poor, hard-working mules,” and he-she-it was right. These two mules were part of the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal Historical Park, where you can take a canal ride and see how these historic locks work. There is also nice walking path along the canal, but for us, it was back to Georgetown’s main drag, “M” Street.

We window-shopped and checked out restaurants until we came to a place that thankfully we do not have in my town, because if we did, I would be destitute within a week.

Walking inside, there were fresh crab cakes from the Chesapeake Bay, barbecued baby-back ribs, heirloom tomatoes, wine and even more wine. I had never been in a Dean & Deluca before. “I could live in this store,” I said.

As we were in the back chatting with the wine guy, Kim asked, “Did you see the Obama Wine in front?” Located at the front of the store were numbered “Inaugural” wine bottles with a gold seal that shows The White House, has the name Barack Obama and the inauguration date all on its gold seal.

We each bought two bottles (along with a few others) to be shipped home. One we will keep as a souvenir, and the other we will serve to some future, unsuspecting Republican friends of ours as a gentle ribbing for their defeat last November.

Forty-five minutes and $300 later (yes, we are good for the economy), we left the “store of evil” and headed toward the special place where we would dine on this Sunday night. We thought we were near, but the street it was located on was nowhere to be found.

After nearly being run over by the incredible amounts of traffic in the area, Mary finally asked someone where we should go (never a good question to ask anyone who has known us for more than a minute).

“Up there,” he pointed. Not too far from us was a narrow set of stairs that rose steeply. “Those are the stairs from “The Exorcist,” the man said, spitting out green liquid as his head did a complete 360.

The stairs were steep, all right, but we all made it up successfully. We counted 90 steps, but it seemed like 666. Some people were actually running up the steps, although others were having a devil of a time (ok, enough of that).

Near the top of the stairs was our restaurant, 1789. Nicely dressed patrons were entering and exiting on this early Sunday afternoon for the special Mother’s Day brunch. We were shown a dinner menu from the previous evening (the menu changes every day), and we told them we would see them later when more appropriately attired.

Grabbing a bottle of water at a nearby store, we trekked up to Georgetown University, a very lovely campus (Let’s Go Hoyas). After a brief respite on some benches we walked through more of charming, residential Georgetown to Dumbarton Oaks.

The wait to get in was only about 15 minutes and, as it turned out, it was well worth the effort to get here. The self-guided tour is $8. The property encompasses more than 50 acres, and we meandered slowly through the various gardens, enjoying the sights and smells of this great spring day. The only downside was that the spring weather had been so cool the previous weeks; the flowers were not yet at their peak color.

As we exited the property, our feet finally got the better of us, and we grabbed a cab back to the neighborhood where Jack’s is located. That morning, we had seen a place that touted half-price bottles of wine on Sunday. Well, it was Sunday and it was afternoon. Enough said!

We were dropped off a half block away and walked over to the empty wine bar that was closed, even though it said it was open. A voice boomed from the balcony across the street, “That place is out of business. Try the Oyster Bar.”

Kitty corner to us was The Oyster Bar. “Sorry, we don’t open until 5,” the guy at the door said.

It was off to Jack’s (1527 17th Street NW), who had their “Five Dollar Cocktail Sunday” (better than a $5 foot-long) in full gear, and the patio was packed. We got the last table out of the sun (by now, it was hot).

Tracy ordered the house Blackjack Martini while the rest of us asked for the Urquell Pilsner in honor of our trip to Prague last year. I’m not really a beer drinker, and all I can say is Urquell tastes better in Prague. I needed something else. It was then that the alcohol gods smiled down upon me.

Our waiter, Ismael, a very funny guy who grew up in Turkey, recommended I try their Limoncello Martini. I took my first sip of this delectable concoction consisting of equal parts Stoli Limonnaya Vodka, Limoncello with a splash of sour mix shaken then strained into a glass, and I felt like singing in both Russian and Italian. Looking at the other drinks on the table, Ismael said, “You made the right choice.”

Kim took a sip and had to have the same drink. Bringing the drink over to him and looking at my martini, Ismael said, “Yours is better.” Tracy also took a sip of my drink and had to have one, too.

When Ismael brought Tracy her Limoncello martini, he looked at me, looked at Kim, winked and whispered to Tracy, “Yours is the best.” Did this guy know how to get a tip or what? Luckily, I had leftover tip money from breakfast, and he got it.

We had a few hours before our 8 p.m. dinner reservations, so we took what would be the first and last nap of the trip. After getting spruced up, we were in a cab whisking us to one of the area’s most famous restaurants, 1789.

Built in a country inn-type setting, the restaurant has been in existence for almost 40 years. There are six separate rooms to dine in that range from Civil war décor to a garden room to where we were situated on this evening; The Pub.

It was quite warm inside, and this restaurant requires a coat and tie, which complicated matters for me. The room, although full, was very quiet, and the four of us were afraid that this might be a pretty stuffy dinner.

Well, we’ve never met a room that we couldn’t get to liven up, and tonight was no different. Our very professional server, a very lovely young woman by the name of Caro, chatted with us extensively and soon a couple of tables changed out to customers who were a little more lively and who we got to know later, with a little surprise thrown in for good measure.

The food was exquisite.

I started with a dish entitled “Snails In A Blanket,” which is certainly better to have here than at your hotel. It was burgundy snails, wild Ramps (I think Kim dated her in college), Neal’s Yard Coolea (who I actually thought was a rap artist) and parsley.

Tracy began with the Baby Carrot Soup that included crispy veal sweetbread croutons (showing why she is the “brains” of the family), raisin compote and tarragon mustard.

Kim decided on a Bitter Greens Salad of Belgian endive, radicchio, frisée, fennel vinaigrette and spiced croutons.

Mary went with the Farro Salad of spring garlic, baby carrots, black Spanish radishes, green almonds and wild Dandelion greens.

Before we got to the main event, we were served “amuse bouche,” which, although sounding more like a Cirque du Soleil show, were actually crostinis topped with baby wild onion flowers.

The main event was equally as good. Kim dined on an EcoFriendly Farms Pork Chop (no pigs were harmed in the making…oh wait, yes they were) with Black-eyed peas (no Fergie, however), Applewood smoked bacon, wild Dandelion greens, grilled green garlic and Blis sherry vinegar.

Mary, ever the fish girl, had the Day Boat Halibut with potato gnocchi, Fiddlehead Ferns (my college date), wild spring onions and Yellowfoot chanterelle.

Tracy’s Bo Bo Farms Free Range Chicken with Smokey Blue Cheese polenta, baby carrots, roasted young Vidalia onions and Herb jus (Tracy’s ex-boyfriend) was a hit.

I had the Muscovy Duck Breast with a Long pepper crusted foie gras, baby turnips, Riesling Macerated Black Mission figs and stewed turnip greens.

It always seems we eventually end up chatting with people at restaurants (shocking), but tonight came an unexpected meeting. After talking extensively about wine with the people next to us, and delving into other areas, it turned out they were relatives of Kim.

By now we were extremely full, and when Caro asked what we wanted for dessert, we passed. Major 1789 faux paus! Caro’s face turned long when we ordered only cappuccinos and my Mexican coffee.

A short time later, she returned…with treats for the table! "Dinner is like a book,” Caro told us in a nice, but stern tone. “There is the prelude, the story and the conclusion, and dinner, like a book, is not complete without the conclusion.”

So (on the house I might add), we were first presented various sorbet of Rhubarb Lime, Raw Almond and HoneyComb grapefruit. All were pure essence of the flavors. Sorbets were served with cranberry and chocolate chip cookies along with chocolate wafers. “Wow, that was nice of her,” we said. But like the late, great Billy Mays would have said, “Wait, there’s more!!!”

Caro then brought over to our table an assortment of pastry Savories, pecan Sandies (which I had only known as a golf term) and chocolate Sandies with pink peppercorn. These cookies melted in your mouth, and Mary exclaimed that the pecan Sandies tasted “just like Christmas.”

By now the room had emptied somewhat, but the remaining guests were now all talking with one another, and then part of the 1789 crew from the other rooms starting sifting in to The Pub. One of them said, “I wish I had worked this room tonight. It looks like everyone is having so much fun.” So much for stuffy, eh?

One of the waitresses then took me on a tour of the restaurant showing me all the other rooms, which was very cool, I thought. What was also interesting to me was that we were the last few remaining groups in the entire restaurant (the four of us did the same thing at Il Latini in Florence one night until finally our entire group, including many Italians we had been singing with, had to leave through the darkness of the rest of the establishment).

We apologized to the crew for keeping them there so late, and they said, “Don’t worry, we’re having fun, too.” It was after 11, so we said goodbye to Kim’s relatives, a couple of other revelers and all the good folks at 1789. As for the cost of the evening, I will simply go to the end of the commercial and say, “Memories – Priceless!”

We did not get to sleep until after midnight, and were hoping for a good night’s rest, because tomorrow the spreadsheet was filled to the max, and there would be no time for dawdling.

COMING UP: The Ten Hour Day - Is That A Shoe Or A Condo, Lunch In A Native Setting, Capitol Idea, A Very Public Library, The Supremes, A Museum in KAOS and CONTROL, Escargot Here I Go and My Favorite Torturer

Tom -- I'm loving reading this! U're making me want to get over to 1789. And on the limoncello martinis, got a recipe??

1789 was really a great dining experience. Food is very good, and the wait staff is very professional. It is not cheap, to be sure, but for a special night out, it fit the bill (literally)!

Here is my recipe for the Limoncello Martini I had at Jack's (I had one before the GTG, too), which I have been perfecting (often) since our return.

Fill Martini shaker full of ice and put in:
2 oz. Stoli Lemon Vodka
2 oz, good Limoncello
splash of Whiskey sour mix (not sweet and spur)
(I also add one packet of Stevia - sugar substitute I get at Trader Joes)

Shake, shake, shake!
Strain into martini glass rimmed with lemon sugar.
Enjoy!
As I always say, do not operate heavy machinery while drinking these martinis!

We loved our week in DC!

I'll have to add 1789 to my list for next time we're in DC, we splurged on the Inn at Little Washington a couple of years ago, these kind of dinners are well worth it!

We tend to make a lot of friends at dinner too....it's part of the fun of going out!

Again, keep it coming, this report is becomming my lunch time entertainment!

I was getting ready to enter some data into SPSS when I thought, hmmm, what is going on over at Fodors? And yippee, there was another installment from Tom. Sigh. It's over now, I better get back to my data

"we splurged on the Inn at Little Washington a couple of years ago, these kind of dinners are well worth it!"

DC is a very expensive place as we knew coming in to this trip. There are many people on expense accounts here, but we splurged on more than a few meals made better by the fact that we had paid for our hotel earlier in the year. That eased the pain somewhat. Plus most of our meals were really terrific.

"DC is a very expensive place" BUT so many attractions are FREE!!

Your overpriced sandwich at Air and Space? Treat that $8 as the cost of admission with the snack as a bonus.

"BUT so many attractions are FREE!! " A good point that I will discuss in a later installment. Now back to the report.

DAY THREE: The Twelve Hour Day - Is That A Shoe Or A Condo, Lunch In A Native Setting, Capitol Idea, A Very Public Library, The Supremes, A Museum in KAOS and CONTROL, Escargot Here I Go and My Favorite Torturer

It was a little before nine in the morning when our intrepid foursome took off on foot, not knowing we would not see our hotel again for 12 hours, although looking at the spreadsheet, we knew we had a full agenda of activities.

Kim and Mary had made reservations at the National Archives for us on this cool morning, where rain showers were predicted. We grabbed some coffee at Au Bon Pain, and got to the National Archives a little earlier than our scheduled time.

The day started with a 13-minute film about the National Archives, and we were off to The Lawrence O’Brien Gallery that had a special exhibition entitled “Big!”

There were diagrams of the Japanese attack on Pearl Harbor, a map of the battlefield at Gettysburg and Nixon’s tape recorder. Going through the exhibit, there was a big bathtub sitting in front of us. It was the extra large tub used by William H. Taft.

Speaking of extra large, nearby was a pair of shoes that could have housed the Little Old Lady, her brood and all her neighbor. Proving that size matters, we got to see Shaq’s Size 22 shoes. It makes sense that his show would be in the Lawrence O’Brien Gallery since among his varied accomplishments O’Brien once served as Commissioner of the National Basketball Association (NBA).

Then it was on to the Public Vaults containing letters, video and audio recordings.

But, of course, the reason the National Archives is so well visited lies under glass in the Rotunda for the Charters of Freedom. We waited for about 15 minutes just outside the Rotunda; then got in the (slow moving) circular line to catch a glimpse of the Bill Of Rights, the Constitution of the United States and he Declaration Of Independence.

It was about noon when we exited the National Archives, and thanks to suggestions on this travel forum, we headed to the National Museum of the American Indian for lunch. Walking past some canoes, we made our way to the Mitsitam Café, which is a cafeteria-type setting offering cuisines from different Native American regions in the Western Hemisphere.

There are five areas to choose from, Meso America (where Kim, Tracy and I got food from), the Northwest Coast, Northern Woodlands, South America and The Great Plains.

It’s not cheap, by any means. Tracy and I had two soft tacos (with guacamole on the side) each, a piece of key lime pie, water and a soda that ran $34. The food was really good, though.

I think Mary traveled to South America for her lunch of fried yucca, cilantro pestoon, roasted root veggies, bananas and soda that cost $12, but it looked good. The museum has a nice layout, and after lunch Tracy and Mary listened to a little background information while I looked at canoes.

We had 2:30 reservations for our United States Capitol tour, but we were running ahead of schedule. We ducked into the Botanical Gardens on the way over to the Capitol, so I was starting to make up for all the gardens that Tracy had missed out on over the years.

We arrived at the Capitol about 40 minutes early, and we were given the go-ahead to join an earlier tour.

There was a short movie and then the tour, which was frankly a little disappointing because the tour guide lacked any insight into the history of the building. The scripted speech lasted only half an hour. The guide basically just tells you about paintings and statues and does his shtick of talking on one side of the room and letting us listen on the other side. I’ve seen that trick at The Magic Castle in Hollywood.

Each state gets two statues in the National Statuary Hall Collection, and we started guessing which two people represented California. We knew one was Father Junipero Serra, but could not think of the other person. The other statue, we found out, was of Thomas Starr King.

“Who the hell is that?” we asked each other.

“Maybe he was Sky King,” Kim said.

He was actually, according to Wikipedia an “American Unitarian minister influential in California politics during the American Civil War” and was nicknamed the “orator that saved a nation” because Lincoln credited him with “preventing California from becoming a separate nation.”

However, if you travel to the Capitol now, a statue of Ronald Reagan has replaced King. For you King fans, do not despair, he has been relocated to the California State Capitol in Sacramento on the second floor rotunda. Long live the King!

After viewing a nice exhibit after the tour (which told you more about the Capitol than the actual tour), we walked through a tunnel and exited at the Library of Congress (no library card needed).

We first said thanks for the memories to Bob Hope at a special exhibit honoring the comedian that included television and movie clips along with a lot of Hope memorabilia.

The interior of The Library of Congress is gorgeous. Its vibrant mosaics and stenciled ceilings, along with a beautiful marble staircase, make for quite a setting. Oh yeah, there are lots of books, too.

When we arrived, the docent said, “Be sure not to miss the Gutenberg Bible on the second floor and a world map from 1510. Also, don’t miss the Lincoln Bible; the one that Barack Obama took his oath upon.

We found the map and the Gutenberg Bible (one of only three originals in the world). But we could not find the Lincoln Bible. After an exhaustive (okay, not really exhaustive) search, we asked another docent.

She said, “Oh, the Lincoln Bible. It left here yesterday on tour.” I felt the same way I did when I just missed Elvis in concert in San Diego one year. Coincidentally, that bible (Lincoln’s not Elvis’) will be on tour (also in Sacramento) later this summer.

Now we were really ahead of schedule, and, as the Library of Congress was on another day, we were pumping. It was about 3:30, but our Spy Museum reservations were not until 5. “How about the Supreme Court?” Mary asked. This, too, had been scheduled for another day, but we said, “Let’s do it.”

At the Supreme Court we watched a movie (circa 1996 or 1997) on the court. It was fascinating listening to Breyer, Ginsburg, Souter, Thomas, Rehnquist, Stevens and Scalia talk about the inner workings of the court. They showed respect for each other, and they also showed a glimpse of their seldom seen sense of humor.

Afterword, we snuck a peek into chambers, walked through the building and saw the giant statue of the first powerful Supreme Court Chief Justice, John Marshall. Unfortunately we just missed the final docent-led tour.

It was a cool afternoon that still threatened rain, but we stayed dry all the way to one of Washington D.C.’s newer museums, The International Spy Museum.

From Alexander Scott and Kelly Robinson on I Spy to Napoleon Solo and Illya Kuryakan on The Man From U.N.C.L.E to Maxwell Smart on Get Smart, I have always been a sucker on anything that pertains to international intrigue. So when Kim and Mary said they were going to get reservations, I had no reservations about going.

The entrance fee is 20 bucks and you are whisked to the first level where you watch a film, and then head into a room where you can get your own identity and be a spy. I think it would be a fun place to take your kids, but there is a lot for adults, too.

Once in the exhibit, there are numerous hands-on features, movies and tons of gadgets that real spies have used down through the centuries. We saw a real shoe phone! Would you believe two cans and a rope (there actually was a shoe phone)?

Next up was a James Bond 007 car that had all the necessary equipment to thwart his pursuers. We learned about stars that turned spy like Julia Child, Josephine Baker and baseball player Moe Berg. Kim and I played spy attempting to flee through air ducts that they strategically placed in the museum to let you get the feel of trying to escape capture.

It is a place where you could spend a few hours, but after about 90 minutes we were pooped and about the only thing I wanted to spy now was a big, cold martini, which we were able to get at the Old Ebbitt Grill after walking for a while. We weren’t going to stop, but like so many lawyers I know who didn’t pass the bar on their third attempt, neither did we.

For dinner, Mary called Bistrot du Coin at 1738 Connecticut Avenue, and made reservations for 7:30. Even though there is a good metro system, Mary thought we were pretty close, so we walked.

As we turned the corner after a significant walk, Mary realized we were not even close. I believe it was then Kim reiterated, “Seldom right, but never in doubt.” As Mary gave Kim “the look,” the skies opened up, and a deluge ensued. We hailed a cab, and after a good soaking, the “Soggy Four” were deposited at the Bistrot du Coin.

The decibel level at Bistrot du Coin makes The Old Ebbitt Grill sound like a library. It was hopping. It was packed, but we were able to secure a table at the top of the stairs overlooking the action. It seemed like there were a lot of locals, a real neighborhood place.

I never pass up on escargot, which paired well with my new drink du jour called a Versailles; Vodka and Chambord together again for the first time. Dinners included a Cassoulet with duck, lamb, beef and white beans, along with hanger steak with pommes frites. Kim and I had filets to the best of my recollection, which was growing dimmer from the red wine we were now consuming. The food here was good, as was the vibe.

It was still pouring as we left the restaurant, and when we got in the lobby of the Rouge, I exclaimed, “Oh my God, it’s 9 p.m.” That meant two things, we had been gone for 12 hours, but more importantly, it was time for the next to the last installment of 24.

Tracy and I are addicts, as is Mary. Kim is not, so we invited Mary to our room so we could watch murder and mayhem, while Kim read. We only missed about six minutes, which in “24 time” means about eight shootings, a couple of explosions and someone else betraying Jack.

Afterward, we bid adieu to Mary, and Tracy fell immediately asleep. I must have been close behind, because when I awoke at midnight the television was still on.

The group had surpassed the spreadsheet’s wildest expectations, and tomorrow would hold even more great Washington D.C. memories. Our itinerary would include a museum that has become my favorite museum on the planet!

COMING UP: 4D, Breaking News, Art Treasures, Hawk & Dove & Dive, Wine Time at The Rouge, Firefly and Here Comes The Judge

Bistrot du Coin is one of my all time favorites in DC. I could have met you there for a drink, Maitai.

Insofar as the Smithsonian being "free": What, pray tell, did you do last April 15th?

Insofar as the privately run museums in DC are concerned, the best ones are the Phillips Collection (Metro: Dupont Circle North on the red line) and Newseum (Judiciary Square or Archives Metro on either the red or yellow lines). Also the Hillwood Museum (advance reservations required) and Lincoln Cottage Summer White House (wise to make advance reservations, but not always necessary) are very interesting. Personally, I am not so crazy about the Spy Museum for the money.

You did well getting to Dumbarton Oaks. That is a lovely place most tourists do not visit. Also nearby is Tudor Place, a mansion that was contiuously occupied by members of the Lee family for eons until it became public property and was opened up to visitors. Also in Georgetown you could have taken a mule pulled barge on the old C & O Canal. If you do, you must sing, "I Had a Mule and Her Name Was Sal. 15 Miles on the Erie Canal." No, it isn't the Erie Canal, but mules do pull the barges through the locks for tourists. Fun--and you get to sit down!

You did well eating in the American Indian Museum, which does have the most interesting (and best) food on The Mall, but, as you pointed out, is not cheap.

1789 is a super restaurant. I haven't eaten there in years. Advancing age leading to diminished funds and need to watch ones' waistline (which has dramatically decreased recently--and I want it to stay that way) puts those sorts of restaurants out of the possible for me.

"Also nearby is Tudor Place, a mansion that was contiuously occupied by members of the Lee family"

Missed the last tour at Tudor Place by ten minutes.

Many of the places you mention above we visited during our week long stay and will be discussed as I try and get this report done. We all thoroughly enjoyed Bistrot do Coin, and the Vodka and Chambord drink made it even better.

Absolutely wonderful, Tom.

>> Is That A Shoe Or A Condo<<

My first thought was, "Who gave the Maitai Family the key's to our Foggy Bottom condo???"

Great report!! Looking forward to the next installment...

I continue to enjoy my stays at the Rouge. On a recent visit, the leopard-wear was oddly absent from the room's wardrobe. I gave the guy at the front desk a good natured hard time about it and the next afternoon, I found a little stuffed bear in leopard skin outfit holding a gratis Starbucks card. Apparently the Rouge knows that Cafe Rouge is subpar!


>>Insofar as the Smithsonian being "free": What, pray tell, did you do last April 15th?<<

While I understand that you are saying that public tax dollars fund the Smithsonian museums, many of its visitors aren't US citizens or aren't US citizens who pay federal taxes.

"I continue to enjoy my stays at the Rouge."

I have to say that the bed at the Rouge was as comfortable as any bed I have stayed on vacations or business trips. Then again, walking 10 hours a day can make one tired. The location near DuPont Circle and al those little neighborhood restaurants was great.

I also like the Kimpton Hotels' "wine hour" that I will talk about in the next installment.

It's so much fun to read your reports. It sounds like a great trip--thanks for taking us along, and, even better, thanks for the limoncello martini recipe. I think it's time for a return trip to D.C.

I always tell people that the Smithsonian is free for foreigners. Everyone else pays. Insofar as I know, maitai is an American, so it ain't free for him.

Tom, you are a Fodors National Treasure!

OBXgirl has a Foggy Bottom condo?? Very cool. What do I have that I could trade for a weekend? hmmmm.
You don't always have to get advance reservations to Hillwood. We drove up and didn't have any problem getting in.

At last! The promised TR! Hooray! hooray!

Such a happy read and so informative! Makes me want to go back to DC soon and visit all those places you mentioned where I haven't been - Dumbarton Oaks for one!

So, now you know about Yuengling beer - one of my favorites!

And 1789 - what a restaurant! I went there many years ago (on expense account) and had wonderful food but can't remember what it was now. What I do remember is that during the middle of our dinner there was a commotion at one of the other tables. Apparently the very suave looking gentleman and his beautiful lady friend had dined gorgeously and then had left without paying their bill! 1789 will always stay in my memory for that one unique episode!

Please keep continue writing - more! more!

And please say hi for me to Tracy, Kim and Mary! Absolutely my pleasure to have met them during the GTG. What a bunch of bon vivants!

"And please say hi for me to Tracy, Kim and Mary! Absolutely my pleasure to have met them during the GTG. What a bunch of bon vivants!"
"bon vivant
A person with refined taste, especially one who enjoys superb food and drink."

I guess we are. I leave the refined taste to them, while I eat all the superb food and down the superb drinks. Great meeting you and all the others at the DC GTG.

Happy 4th!

DAY FOUR: 4-D, Breaking News, Art Treasures, Hawk & Dove & Dive, Wine Time at The Rouge, Firefly and Here Comes The Judge

So much for rain! We awoke to sunny skies and reached in our wallets to split a cab to our first destination. Most importantly, before our museum experience, we had to grab some breakfast. We decided on a place called Cosi, which I believe now has more than 100,000 locations in the greater DC area.

After breakfast, we walked over to the Newseum. If you visit Washington D.C. and are interested in past and current events, the Newseum should be high on your list of places to see. I could write all day about it, but my trip reports are long enough, so I’ll give you the nuts and bolts.

Before entering, walk along the front of the building and view front pages of newspapers from around the world. It makes one lament the ongoing death of many of these publications.

After purchasing our $20 entrance tickets (which I think is a bargain for everything you see, hear and watch at this fantastic museum), we walked into a theater and watched a 20-minute film on great accomplishments in sports (we skipped the orientation movie, which we had been told to do by more than a few people). To emphasize the sports’ film’s quality, even Tracy, who is not a sports fan, loved it.

However, it was the next film we were about to view that blew (literally at times) the group away. Heading upstairs, we walked into a waiting room where we donned 3-D, no wait, 4-D glasses. “I’ve never heard of 4-D,” I said.

We found out that 4-D is basically 3-D, only with special effects that one feels physically while viewing the film (sort of like a date in high school or college). A couple of historical films put you, quite literally, in the action. On the boats, the chairs move to make you feel like you’re on the water, and suddenly a mist or forceful wind hits you right in the face.

There was also a film on Nellie Bly and the exposé she wrote about insane asylums. The highlight is ****SPOILER ALERT*** when the rat rubs against your ankle. There were more than a few shrieks in the audience. I’m not copping to anything.

Before, in-between and after the films there are also bubbles that seem to be heading directly in to your face that contain world events through the years, and sometimes the bubbles burst near your face, and you can actually feel the bubbles as they pop. Don Ho would have enjoyed it.

The way to work your way through the museum is take the elevator directly to the sixth floor and then work down from there. From the sixth floor outside balcony, the views up and down Pennsylvania Avenue were stunning on this clear day.

I could have spent all day on the fifth floor. There are newspapers that date back to 1545 (which happened to be the last year the Padres had a winning record), and you can pull out drawers that contain even more newspaper front pages than the ones that are highlighted.

The newspapers from the 19th, 20th and 21st centuries were particularly interesting. Whether it was the banner headline “Jesse James Assassinated,” the sinking of the Titanic, the attack on Pearl Harbor, a picture of Lee Harvey Oswald in the morgue to headlines from today, it brought history to life.

As you wander up and down the rows of newspapers, there are videos stationed periodically showing clips of JFK’s assassination, Watergate, comedy skits regarding the news, Vietnam coverage and so much more. You can also duck into mini theaters that show looping videos regarding history of freedom of the press in America.

Before you leave this floor, there is a history of the world as detailed by television coverage of many of the most important events that have taken place in the past half a century. It was truly captivating!

Descending to the fourth floor, we were now witness to the terrible events of 9-11. One video, showing that day unfold from the reporters perspective who covered the event in New York, was incredible moving, and there were a lot of tears shed by people who viewed it.

On the third level, there was a wall commemorating those journalists from around the world who gave their lives to bring you and me “the story.” The “Journalists Memorial” had some very familiar names on it from Ernie Pyle to David Bloom. Also on this level are computer stations that one can key in to events from history, like the Hindenburg crash to more current events.

There is also an interactive map displaying which countries have a free press, those countries that have a limited free press to the countries whose governments dictate what coverage its citizens see, hear and read. Some are very surprising, or at least they were to us.

If you have ever wanted to be on television, you can also become a news anchor or reporter at one of the interactive news studios.

Finally, downstairs was an exhibit of Pulitzer prize-winning photographs, some well known and others that we saw for the first time. It was a very moving exhibit and proves the expression that “a picture is worth a thousand words.”

We toured the Newseum for nearly four hours, and at the end, we all agreed we could have spent at least four more hours exploring its wealth of exhibits and films. From the knowledgeable staff to virtually every exhibit at this interesting and informative museum, the Newseum receives our highest reviews, and coming to Washington D.C. without visiting the Newseum would be a mistake in my estimation.

By now, it was nearly 2 p.m., but instead of eating (now there is a shocking detail), we decided to mosey on over to the National Gallery of Art. When this museum was completed, it was the largest marble structure in the entire world. This museum, with free admission, has paintings and sculptures from the Middle Ages to present day, and since the four of us are middle-aged, we decided to stick to the West Wing (actually the West Building), which houses the older art.

After stopping at the information desk to get our bearings, we strolled over to the beautiful Rotunda that leads into the hallways. Off of these hallways are a multitude of rooms where great works of art abound.

We were very impressed by the beautiful building and its presentation of these art treasures. We meandered through many of the rooms enjoying the works of artists such as Fra Angelico, Van Dyke, Renoir, and so many others.

Nearing the end of our visit, one piece of art grabbed my immediate attention. Augustus Saint Gauden’s plaster tribute to Robert Gould Shaw and the first all-black regiment of the Union Army in the Civil War was something to behold. If you don’t know the story (or even if you do), I highly recommend you rent the movie “Glory” (which we did last week). Starring Denzel Washington, Morgan Freeman and Matthew Broderick (good performances by all), “Glory” is a very well-made motion picture that informs as well as entertains.

It was now mid-afternoon and our midsections felt the pangs of hunger (and thirst). No trip with Kim and Mary is ever complete without a trip to at least one Irish pub. On a recommendation, we hopped into a cab and were whisked (well, there was beaucoup traffic, so whisk might be a stretch) to the Capitol Hill area for drinks and munchies at The Hawk ‘n’ Dove, touted as Washington D.C.’s oldest Irish bar.

We walked inside to a very dark interior and plunked ourselves down at a table with a bay window where we had a lovely view of the dive bar next door. I hadn’t seen that many tattoos since watching a Denver Nuggets’ game.

Dinner hour was still at least a few hours away, so Mary ordered some calamari appetizers for the table, and we all had a nice, refreshing afternoon libation.

It was nearing 5 p.m., and since we had not taken advantage of the Hotel Rouge “Wine Hour,” that started at five, we got back in a cab and headed to our hotel.

Wine is served to Hotel Rouge patrons in the lobby and is poured by pleasant Hotel Rouge staff members. It’s a good way to meet other guests and, oh yeah, drink free wine!

We were in the mood to stay relatively near the hotel tonight, and the desk guy recommended its sister hotel’s (Hotel Madera) restaurant, Firefly, for dinner. It is located just off of DuPont Circle.

Firefly is only about a 10-15 minute walk from the Rouge, and when we arrived at 7:45, it was jam-packed. We were seated near the “firefly tree,” and from start to finish we received very personable service from their great wait staff. The food was damn good, too!

Tracy and Mary started with a roasted tomato bisque soup, while I had a lettuce wedge with blue cheese.

For the main course, I went for the house specialty; pot roast on a bed of Yukon Gold potatoes. Sumptuous!

Kim went the chicken route again with a roasted chicken on a bed of greens.

Tracy dined on an 8-ounce bistro steak, potatoes au gratin and cauliflower.

Mary, not swimming far from her fishy ways, had the halibut, collards and fava bean pesto. Fortunately Hannibal Lecter was nowhere in sight, but to be safe we stayed away from the Chianti.

During dinner, Firefly’s terrific general manager, Joe, came over to our table, and we chatted about, what else, wine. He had recommended a Trinitas Meritage ($44) that was very tasty. After talking for quite a while, he gave me a short tour of the restaurant and introduced me to the chef.

That three-minute walk through the restaurant meant I had performed enough exercise to order dessert and an after-dinner drink. I didn’t care that I was eating more than the others, because Tracy and I bought Kim and Mary dinner in thanks for all the hard work they had put into the planning of this trip (they do the same for us in Europe when I plan the trip, so I thought I had better not be a cheapstake).

For dessert, I had a brown apple-betty with blackberry ice cream and an Irish coffee. The Jenny Craig diet was now in full retreat, but we never gain weight on our travels because we walk 50 miles a day (or so it seems).

I guess Joe must have seen the bill for the evening, because before we left he poured me a complimentary, little glass of his favorite gin (oh yeah, we talked about gin, too). The Bluecoat gin made it a little more difficult for me to navigate a straight line to the hotel.

Not too far from the Rouge, we spied a woman exiting a building and being lead into a large, black limo. “I think its Barbara Bush,” Tracy said. Being the noisy tourists that we are, the four us surreptitiously slipped in a little closer to get a better look.

“Even better,” Mary said. “It’s Sandra O’Conner.” Sure enough, the ex- Supreme Court Justice ambled over to the limo and got inside. Fortunately, it was a small glass of gin, or “here comes the judge” could have easily spouted from my lips.

For once we got back to the hotel at a relatively early hour, which was fine because tomorrow there would be an early wake-up call from Mary. Our plan was to stray from the environs of Washington D.C. for the entire day and visit Arlington Cemetery, Mt. Vernon and Alexandria, Virginia.

DAY FOUR: Get Out Of My Way, Changing Of The Guard, From The Halls Of Montezuma, Missed It By That Much, I Cannot Tell A Lie, Where’s Vanna White, Down By The Lazy River, Riding On The Metro Again and Damn It “Our Out Of Business Wine Bar” is Open!

Oops, obviously Day Five is next. I guess I just have the Fourth on my mind.

"being the noisy tourists that we are." A Freudian slip that I suspect at times is as true as nosy tourists.

Still loving the read.

""being the noisy tourists that we are." A Freudian slip that I suspect at times is as true as nosy tourists."

My proofreader has been fired!!! Yes, we were nosy and noisy. Gosh, I haven't even had a cocktail yet. Wait, that could be the problem!

Thanks for the detailed description of the Newseum. I agree that it is well worth the price (NOT my feeling about The Spy Museum though). You mean you skipped lunch entirely? Heck, The Newseum has a nice food court and the National Gallery has gelato in the basement between the East and West Buildings. You could have at least stopped for a gelato!

I agree that the Hawk 'n' Dove is a great place. I used to eat there quite regularly years ago when I lived near it. I have not been there for years. There used to be this bartender there called Baseball Bill. He was quite a character!

I have not been to Firefly, but it sounds as if you had a good time.

I hope you did not go to Arlington in the morning. Everyone tends to go first thing. After 3:00pm there is almost no one there and you get a much better view of The Changing of the Guard.

"I hope you did not go to Arlington in the morning.:

We did go early, and fortunately the crowd was pretty light, but.....more to come in the next installment.

((HH))

""I hope you did not go to Arlington in the morning.:

We did go early, and fortunately the crowd was pretty light, but.....more to come in the next installment."

While afternoon visits can be better in terms of view, the sweltering heat and humidity in the summer may greatly hamper the actual time you can spend there.

Great report. Looking forward to the next chapter.

Arlington is open until 7:00pm during the summer. If it's hot, you can go as late as 5:00pm and see both the Changing of the Guard at the Tomb of the Unknowns and the Kennedy graves. Most people do not go to Arlington House, as it is currently under rennovation and empty of all furnishings.

Great report! But Yuengling is in PottsVILLE not Pottsdale. Shame on Rich.

http://www.yuengling.com/beers.htm

" Shame on Rich."

My bet is, "Blame it on the two martinis," which I guess indirectly blames Rich, too.

And remember to tell those who don't know that Yuengling is pronounced Yingling.
I grew up in Central Pa. and those radio commercials are still plugged into my brain -

Yum...I love Yuengling! I never heard of it until we moved to Charlotte a few years back. It's served all over the place around here. One of my faves!

Great trip report, as always. We too stayed at the Hotel Rouge. It was funky but in a cool kind of way. We usually enjoy staying in Kimpton hotels when we can. And I too loved the food at the American Indian museum. Can't wait to read more!

Tracy

DAY FIVE: Get Out Of My Way, Changing Of The Guard, From The Halls Of Montezuma, Missed It By That Much, I Cannot Tell A Lie, Where’s Vanna White, George Washington Slept Here, The Bus ‘Nazi’, Down By The Lazy River, Riding On The Metro Again and Damn It “Our Out Of Business Wine Bar” is Open!

Mary was on the phone to us early. We had to get ready for our daytrip outside of DC. Although Arlington Cemetery opens at 8 a.m., because we had been going at such a frenetic pace, Mary aimed for an arrival time closer to 8:30 knowing that we didn’t want to end up in the cemetery, but just visit.

We took a taxi to Arlington (the great thing about traveling with another couple is that taxis become an affordable and much quicker mode of transportation). Thirteen bucks is a lot better than 26 bucks (yes, that San Diego State Math Three course comes in handy).

Fearing the warnings we had heard about enormous crowds, we were amazed at the lack of people by the time we arrived a little before 8:30. The sun was already making its heat making quality known, so we knew this day was going be the hottest day yet that we had experienced.

We started walking up the road toward JFK’s gravesite, when out of the corners of our eyes we spied a humungous tour group that we definitely wanted to stay ahead of for as long as we could.

We paid a visit to JFK’s eternal flame and his first flame, Jackie. I guess they didn’t have room for all his other flames.

When you turn around, there is a beautiful view back toward Washington D.C. and The Washington Monument,

Staying ahead of the crowd, we strolled over to where RFK was laid to rest. Visiting the Newseum the previous day, it is amazing to me that 40 to 45 years after both assassinations, how much of that coverage still is vividly ingrained in my memory.

It was about 8:45, and we knew that the Changing Of The Guard at The Tomb Of The Unknowns was to commence shortly. We picked up the pace. At one spot in the cemetery there is a single path that is a kind of a short cut to get to where the ceremony would take place, which was now only about five minutes from starting.

In the distance I saw people scurrying to get to the 9 a.m. guard changing. Meanwhile we were stuck behind “The Snail Family.” Seinfeld had “Low Talkers.” We now had “Slow Walkers.” I believe you all know this family or person; the ones that take the entire green light to walk across the narrow intersection, oblivious to all that surrounds them and seemingly unable to move in anything close to real time. I’ve seen Slow Motion replays faster than this family, all young and all slow.

They were not disabled. They were not obese. They were not looking around taking in the hallowed surroundings that are Arlington. They were just slooooow!

As we reached a connecting road, I turned on the afterburners (well, actually I just had to walk at a normal pace) and passed them, and I got up to the ceremony just as it began. Mary, Kim and Tracy were not far behind.

After the solemn ceremony, we meandered through the cemetery, which was very beautiful. Although Arlington did not have the same impact (to me anyway) as The American Cemetery in Normandy, knowing how many thousands of stories that could be told from the great beyond made this a very interesting place to visit and once again makes you think about how many young men and women have lost their lives in our many wars.

For those who do not want to make the treks that we do, there is a TourMobile that takes visitors around Arlington, but you already know that we don’t do that. From the Tomb Of The Unknowns, we made the long walk over to The United States Marine Corps War Memorial where the famous statue of the flag being raised on Mount Surabachi stands.

We had seen the Pulitzer Prize winning photograph the day before at The Newseum, and now we were standing in front of the 32-foot high figures planting that 60-foot high bronze flagpole. With the sun captured behind the flag, we took some pretty memorable photographs. During our 15 minutes here, only handful of people stopped by.

On the way back to Arlington’s entrance, we passed by The “Netherlands Carillon.” The tower was presented a gift from Holland. We also stopped by and paid our respects to William Howard Taft (buried sans his huge bath tub) and five-star general Omar Bradley.

Next on the spreadsheet was a trip to Mount Vernon, home of our first president, Millard Fillmore (just seeing if you’re still with me). As we neared the spot where our cab had left us earlier, I started having DC marathon hike flashbacks. “God, I hope we aren’t going to have to walk to Mount Vernon,” I said to Kim and Mary.

They assured me that the group would be taking public transportation to Mt. Vernon and soon we descended some stairs, and I finally got my first glimpse of the Washington DC metro system that could have been a savior to my feet for the past four days.

If I remember correctly, we took the Blue line to King Street Station (the guy working the booth said that this station is easiet to switch trains), and then we hopped on the Yellow line to Huntington.

We arrived at the Huntington station shortly after 11 a.m. Unfortunately, the bus that takes you out to Mt. Vernon had just left and the next one was not until noon. Taxi!!!!!!!!

We split the cab fare, took the very scenic drive along the parkway with glimpses of the Potomac and within about 20 minutes we were at Mount Vernon, where our first executive decision was made. “Let there be lunch!”

I cannot tell a lie, we lunched at The Mt. Vernon Inn, and Kim continued on with the chicken (Chicken Caesar Salad), Mary with the fish (Salmon Corncakes), Tracy had the turkey pye (yes pye), and I had a Virginia peppered ham sandwich with Monterey Jack cheese and spicy mustard along with some scrumptious and totally unhealthy tavern chips.

I also decided I would try their mint julep (the mint is grown locally at Mr. Vernon).

“Why are you having a mint julep?” Tracy inquired.

Not wanting to say, “Because it’s there,” I instead blurted out, “Because I didn’t get to drink one during the Kentucky Derby.” Of course, I had not downed a mint julep during any the 56 runnings of the Kentucky Derby during my lifetime, but it’s the kind of stupid comment that Tracy has grown accustomed to hearing.

We had 1 p.m. entrance times, but we were a little early, and like everywhere else we went, they did not care we were early. Each of us plucked down six bucks apiece for the audio tour that included highlights of the grounds and museum (the house has an actual human being to give visitors information).

Before entering the grounds, we watched a 30-minute film, and the gentleman giving the orientation on that film (dressed in traditional 1700s’ garb) was none other than Pat Sajak. Fortunately there was no vowel buying, and after he gave his little spiel there was an interesting movie about George and Martha.

We walked though some gardens (Tracy was now getting really spoiled), and then we waited in the mid-afternoon heat to take the short tour of the house.

Inside the first couple of the rooms, the docent gave us a detailed explanation of the house (by the way, all the docents here were friendly and quite knowledgeable).

We then waited. And then we waited more. Finally, we were able to go out on the front porch with commanding views of the Potomac, but we were told there would be some more waiting. It seems there had been a slight emergency with one of the “house guests,” but that emergency crews (a foreshadowing alert for tomorrow, by the way) were on the scene and it was nothing serious.

Escorted back in the house, we toured room by room, with docents answering questions all along the way. Afterward, we walked through the kitchen to the grounds in front and some other nearby buildings, and made our way finally to George and Martha’s final resting place.

Our last stop at Mt. Vernon was the museum that gave visitors an inside glimpse into the more personal Washington, who always wanted to be a homebody, but his service to our country never afforded him that luxury. The artifacts are presented in a very nice setting in a number of rooms.

It took us about 2 3/4 hours to see the grounds, the mansion, the tomb and the museum, and I know some people will say you could spend a whole day there, but nearly three hours was plenty for us.

It was 3:25, and the #101 bus (it runs every 30 minutes starting at 3:30) was going to whisk us back to the metro station. We made an inquiry on what the bus ride would cost, and one man replied, “The fare is $1.35, and by the way, you better have the exact change or he will be very unhappy.”

With only a minute to spare, it was time to find spare change. And fast! Going through our pants quicker than a fake blind pickpocket in Paris (see trip report - circa 2006), we were able to garner the correct change and did not incur the wrath of the driver, who made Tracy’s “the look” seem downright kind when unsuspecting persons did not have the correct monetary unit.

Next stop: Alexandria, Virginia. It was time for the obligatory afternoon cocktail respite. Getting off at King Street station, we walked down the main drag lined with restaurants and shops to the water, where we sat down at The Chart House with a couple of refreshing drinks on this now windy, but sunny, afternoon.

We hopped on the free trolley that runs up and down King Street from 10 a.m. until 10 p.m. at ten, thirty and fifty minutes after the hour or so it said there (when I checked online, it says 11:30 a.m. until 10 p.m., so perhaps a local can chime in with correct information) back to the metro.

Soon we found ourselves at Dupont Circle and we walked toward the hotel. The restaurants in our little neighborhood were all almost full (what recession?).

The memory becomes a little foggy here, but we think the name of the restaurant where we ate outside on the patio was called Delaney Italian Café (help me locals), but any mistakes I make from this point forward can be directly attributed to the Gabbiano Chianti we started to consume.

In a shocking development, Mary had (drum roll) fish, but her dish of grilled tuna with a Tomatillo avocado sauce was the winner of the night. Kim and I went for the 10-ounce steaks while Tracy had a nice chicken saltimbocca stuffed with Prosciutto and spinach. It was $160 for four, including tip and plenty of vino.

After dinner, as we walked back to the hotel, we saw a place that was really going great guns with colorful lights and what looked a really fun atmosphere.

“Hey, that’s our wine place from Sunday,” I said. Yep, the place those lying guys (oh wait a minute, it is Washington) told us was out of business a few nights before was doing a great business tonight. Once again the notes and memory are sketchy, but we have written down the name of the wine bar as Florianda (again locals, please correct if not right).

Well, we’d already consumed our full quota of cocktails and wine anyway, so it was back to the Rouge. Most importantly, we needed to get our beauty rest, because along with everything else we would accomplish on the following day, the big event would come later that evening. That would be when the infamous Gathering Of The Fodorites would take place at Jack’s. God help DC!!!!!!

COMING UP - DAY SIX: Insufficient Grounds, Affairs Of State, So Easy A Child Could Do It, I Don’t Want To Be A Pirate, A Banner Exhibit, Going Postal, She’s Fallen and She Can’t Get Up, Presidential Portraits, PLUS The Attack Of The Fodorites!

Tom, Delaney Italian Cafe does not ring a bell with this local. Could it have been Dupont Italian Kitchen, a block-and-a-half north of Jack's on 17th?
I think of DIK as a reliable neighborhood joint--cheap and nearby source of basic pizza and pasta, not exactly fine cuisine-- so your menu choices have me wondering if they have gone a bit upscale since my last visit (several months ago) or if you stumbled upon a new place I should try.

"Dupont Italian Kitchen, a block-and-a-half north of Jack's on 17th? "

That certainly could have been it. I wouldn't call it fine dining either, and I think "reliable neighborhood joint" is a perfect description. I believe Mary's dish (the best of all of our choices) was a special that evening, however (as stated) the chianti was beginning to take effect as we dined here. Thanks for the update.

Too bad you missed the education center at Mount Vernon. The multimedia show there is the most spectacular in town (even better than the one at the Newseum). Too many people bypass it in the rush to get in and out of the mansion--which is really too bad.

I know the bus you took all too well. When some tours end out MV, I take the same bus to the Huntington Metro and then 3 different Metro trains before reaching my "home" Metro stop (where my car is parked to drive to my house). Sometimes public transport is easier than letting a very confused out of town driver drive you where you want to go.

By the way, the Metro blue line goes out to Arlington Cemetery (stop: Arlington Cemetery; exit left side to avoid crossing the street to access the cemetery). Glad you had no crowds. You were lucky.

Please keep the trip report coming, tom It's a joy to read!

>>knowing how many thousands of stories that could be told from the great beyond made this a very interesting place to visit <<

Today, another poster, cmcfong, shared a very moving story in her thread titled: "Reunited, the trip of a lifetime"

I assumed it was Dupont Italian Kitchen, too. They have great real estate, but unexceptional food. They do win the prize, though, for having the best name for a bar in the gay ghetto: DIK Bar.

MikeT, I now remember that through my Chianti haze. Has anyone been to the wine bar/restaurant that we got shut out from?

Thanks obxgirl, I'll look that one up.

Great report!

When did they move the monument of Mt. Suribachi to Arlington?

We had a great time as well in Mt. Vernon. We paid an extra $5 for "National Treasure 2" tour which was facinating (even though we didn't see the movie).

I imagine it was Floriana Mercury Grill, which is very festive. It doesn't open until 5pm.

"When did they move the monument of Mt. Suribachi to Arlington? "

The United States Marine Corps War Memorial is not technically at Arlington Cemetery, but is located very near; at least near enough for us to walk.

"I imagine it was Floriana Mercury Grill, which is very festive. It doesn't open until 5 pm."

Damn, that'll teach us to drink early!!!

Going to the Kennedy graves before going to see the Tomb of the Unkowns is the DC corollary to taking the Yeoman Warder's tour before heading to the Jewel House whilst in London. Should have known better since the Kennedy graves can be see just as conveniently on the way out as on the way in.

Keep it coming. As always, your report is great reading.

I'm impressed that you all walked from Arlington to the memorial and then back again! As you noted, it's not that far but most wouldn't have bothered, especially given how walk intensive DC can be.

I used to work next door to the Iwo Jima in Rosslyn. Crowds were never huge but you'd often see many more people gather when the carillon bells were scheduled to ring. It's an impressive silhouette to view at dusk against the view of the city.

The walk to the Changing of the Guard is really not that long but it is uphill going there and some people have problems with that.

During the summer the Changing of the Guard takes place every half hour, so it is not much of a problem if you miss it and have to wait for the next one. October through March 15 or so, however, it is every hour, so you have to be more careful to time your visit then.

And, yes, the Marine Corps Memorial (Iwo Jima) is just outside Arlington Cemetery and is an easy walk through the cemetery to it. Watch out for the ordinary tombstone on the right as you go with a pike of rocks on it. It is Medgar Evers, the civil rights leader who was gunned down. Jews have a custom of leaving pebbles on a grave to show that they have been there and that is why his grave has all the rocks.

"The United States Marine Corps War Memorial is not technically at Arlington Cemetery, but is located very near; at least near enough for us to walk."

Last I saw it (OK, it was 1987) it was located around the Vietnam wall area.

zlaor - Last I saw it (OK, it was 1987) it was located around the Vietnam wall area.

Maybe you're thinking Korean War Veterans Memorial.

Here is a snippet I found on the Marine Corps War Memorial:

"The Marine Corps War Memorial in Arlington, Virginia is the fruit of the fundraising efforts of Marines and the friends of Marines who raised the $850,000 needed to complete the memorial. No public funds were used for this bronze and granite statue that was dedicated by President Dwight Eisenhower in November of 1954. Designed by Horace W. Peaslee, the Marine Corps Memorial is often erroneously called the Iwo Jima Memorial. That is because it is the raising of the United States over Iwo Jima, an image captured in February of 1945 by Associated Press photographer Joe Rosenthal, that is depicted."

Sorry, should read: "raising of the United States Flag over Iwo Jima"

Yes, the Korean War Memorial is on one side of the Lincoln Memorial and the Vietnam Wall is on the other side of it.

The Marine Corps Memorial is just outside Arlington and most tour companies put the two together on an itinerary.

PS I have a DC tour guide license and have been there many times with groups.

awesome report - hope you come back and post more as I am getting some great tips for our upcoming visit.

I've been going back and forth about the Newseum, but I think you've talked me into it.

TOM, where are you? Everything ok? Been awhile since you posted. I've been waiting for this trip report and ended up doing a search on your username. Yippee!!

Great report so far, as usual! But, please, finale???

(and I do hope all is ok with you and yours.)

Paula

Wonderful report, Tom! This makes me want to make a return trip to D.C.

Yes, where is DAY 6?

So informative and entertaining!

"TOM, where are you? Everything ok? Been awhile since you posted."

Paula, work has been hectic the past few weeks (but, hey I'm working). Tracy told me I had better get the rest of it don, which I will do for fear of receiving her "Spock-like look." We celebrated our wedding anniversary yesterday (15) and my birthday today (too many to count), but I will try to get back on track this weekend, especially since I have to write about the infamous Fodorite gathering at Jack's.

Thanks everyone for the nice comments. We loved our week in DC!!!!

Tom, glad 2 hear all is well -- I 2 was wondering, but I also figured the memory of the DC GTG could have put u over the edge... Happy bday and anniversary!

Happy Birthday and Happy Anniversary!!! (Two more reasons to drink! [as if you needed any]hahahah)

Tooooommmmm! Hellooooo????? Where are youuuuuuu???

Anticipation.... Anticipaaa--aa---tion is making me wait...

Tomorrow morning, I promise. I was having Fodorite GTG flashbacks, but I am now back to normal.

DAY SIX: Insufficient Grounds, Affairs Of State, So Easy A Child Could Do It, I Don’t Want To Be A Pirate, A Banner Exhibit, Going Postal, She’s Fallen and She Can’t Get Up, Presidential Portraits, PLUS The Attack Of The Fodorites!

Buoyed by a good night’s rest, the four of us decided that our feet were sufficiently rejuvenated enough that we could walk to The State Department for the tour Kim and Mary had arranged before we left California.

We were in such good shape that we arrived a full 20 minutes before our appointed tour time, so we decided to grab a cup of joe. Nearby the State Department was a crowded little place called Casey’s where we could down some needed caffeine and devour a not-so-healthy pastry item or two.

As we sat down and started supping our assorted jumble of java concoctions, a similar expression quickly came upon our collective countenances (except Tracy who had ordered an ice tea). You’ve heard of “Bitter Beer Face?” Well on this morning Kim, Mary and I had “Bitter Coffee Face.”

The only adjective we cold come up with for our three disgusting coffee creations was, “Oily.” Mary came up with this quip as a slogan: “Casey’s coffee, brought to you by Chevron.” Sadly, we would have to be caffeine deprived on this morning, and lattes were summarily dumped into the nearest trash receptacle.

We scurried back to the State Department, met up with the remainder of the tour (12 of us in total) and took an elevator upstairs. We were taken to a tiny room, where the docent told us about the furniture and plates in the room. She then related the story about her husband was in the Pentagon on the morning of 9-11. Fortunately, he survived the attack.

The tour took a little break as we waited for some more people to join us. Ten minutes then passed before the elevator door opened, and it was not until then that we discovered there was a special Iraqi contingent of who we perceived to be dignitaries that would be taking the tour with the rest of us.

On the outside, the State Department building looks similar to other uninspired architectural efforts, but inside it is a different story. There is beautiful and historical furniture (including the desk on which the Treaty of Paris was signed) to behold and beautiful paintings adorn many of the walls in the various rooms we were allowed to see..

At different moments during the docent’s explanations it was hard to hear her speak, primarily because the head Iraqi guy (well, we perceived him to be their leader since everyone else was kissing up to him) would just start talking and interrupting her train of thought. Miss Manners would have been very upset.

When we arrived in the last room, the docent told us about a dinner party that had been held the previous evening. This fact was confirmed when I turned around and saw Tracy holding something in her hand that looked suspiciously like a dining utensil. “What’s the heck is that?” I inquired.

“Oh, just a fork,” she answered. “I stepped on it. Do you want it as a souvenir?” Not wanting to start an international incident this early in the day, I declined, although later we picked up a program that had been left behind and took that with us.

The tour lasted about 45 minutes and, after it was over, we headed over to the Corcoran Gallery of Art, which we had been told was the first art gallery in Washington D.C. Since we had not reached our full allotment of caffeine, the four of us sat in their cafeteria and had some decent coffee and even a bowl of turkey chili soup.

We perused the Corcoran program detailing what was on display at the museum, and we unanimously decided that we would pass on the Corcoran. Yes, I know, blasphemous!

Next on the day’s agenda was the incredibly crowded, but very entertaining National Museum of American History. Our first stop was Julia Child’s Kitchen. The renowned chef had donated her Cambridge, Massachusetts, kitchen in the early 2000s and most of the items contained therein.

The many videos of Child cooking were quite amusing, and one line she uttered reinforces that she did not have too many recipes suited for “Cooking Light” magazine. On one of her shows, Child states, “If you do not want to use butter in your mashed potatoes, then use cream.” I could see arteries harden throughout the room as she spoke.

We meandered past the very interesting transportation exhibits, complete with life-sized rail and trolley cars.

Mary and Tracy had heard there was an exhibition featuring gowns worn by the first ladies. Fortunately for Kim and myself the line was long, and they didn’t want to wait. Nearby was a very interesting series of photos taken on the day of Obama’s inauguration.

Next up was the actual Star Spangled Banner itself, the one that Francis Scott Key saw fly over Fort McHenry on that September morning in 1814 (fortunately, he never heard Roseanne Barr’s rendition). The huge flag is in a new display and it really is quite a presentation that should not be missed.

I might be going out of order, but we then went upstairs to see the Thanks For The Memories exhibits. From Dorothy’s red shoes in The Wizard Of Oz to Seinfeld’s puffy shirt (“I don’t want to be a pirate”) to the jersey of another kind of Pirate, Roberto Clemente, this exhibit is very fun to wander through.

The Lincoln exhibit was fascinating. It included a timepiece that contained a recently found secret message to the President engraved on it. Unfortunately, it didn’t say, “Skip the play.”

Our last stop at the museum was the American Presidency Exhibit, where I could easily have spent a week going through all the memorabilia on display or viewing the many special films.

We had heard the Old Post Office Pavilion was neat to walk through, so we headed over there to take a quick gander. The architecture was interesting indeed, and although there were numerous places to eat inside, we made the now fateful decision to try someplace else.

Although there was a nearby crosswalk as we exited, Tracy and I decided to be lawbreakers and jaywalk across the street. The decision would have dramatic ramifications.

As we waited across the street from the Old Post Office Pavilion for the law-abiding Kim and Mary to rejoin us, we saw an amazing event unfolding only about 20 feet away. Suddenly the Federal Triangle became more of a Bermuda Triangle.

Out of the corner of our eyes, Tracy and I spied two elderly women in walkers accompanied by a man. Suddenly, one of the women started to lose her balance. In a slow motion ballet, as she descended toward the pavement, we thought she would be caught in time by the man with her. Instead, he just stood there like an idiot, and a second later we heard a terrible thud, which happened to be the lady’s head meeting pavement.

Tracy and I rushed over to see what assistance we could offer the woman who was bleeding slightly from the top of her head, but before anyone could say “Florence Nightingale,” Mary arrived on the scene. Like a trained CSI Agent, Mary had the entire area around the woman cordoned off while she determined the extent of the woman’s injuries.

I could see it now; the woman would ask Mary if she were a doctor, and Mary would reply, “No, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night.”

Back to reality. The woman’s name was Helen, aged 92. She was traveling with her sister, Edith, 86, and Edith’s son, age unknown, but someone who did not know how to catch little old ladies as one hurtled toward the hard cement. Edith was a veteran, and they were all in Washington D.C. to tour the war memorials. Sadly, this was their first day.

By now, Mary had a dedicated team of other passersby assisting her. There was a tour guide who has strayed from her tour, a guy from Homeland Security, a military liaison and Kim. Tracy was assisting Edith and making sure she was calm and out of the sun. A relatively cool day had turned quickly hot and humid.

Meanwhile, the Homeland Security guy asked me if he could use my phone, because he could not get service (thank God this wasn’t a terrorist attack or we would have doomed). I’m lucky to get cell service in my own kitchen, but fortunately the cell phone received a signal and soon we could hear the sound of not just one, but two, ambulances. I guess those Homeland Security guys have some clout.

Back at the accident site, Mary was administering aid and comfort to Helen. While Mary worked to stop the bleeding by applying a compress of Kim’s clean windbreaker on the wound, Kim (now sans windbreaker) was holding an umbrella over the fallen woman, providing a break from the ever-present sun.

By the time paramedics arrived, Mary had the situation (and the bleeding) under control. Mary helped the paramedics get Helen on the gurney, and Tracy helped Edith. Edith’s son was, well, doing nothing. Soon Helen was placed in an ambulance and headed to a nearby hospital. The paramedics said she was very lucky, but with a head injury it is always best to err on the side of caution.

Saving lives in our nation’s capital can make a tourist very hungry, so we headed over to Ana Trattoria in the Federal Triangle for lunch. I had a Quattro Formaggio Pizza, Tracy opted for the Goat Cheese and Pesto Pizza, Kim munched on a Caesar Salad and Florence (I mean Mary) decided upon the Roast Beef Panini.

After lunch, we hopped on the Metro and exited just around the corner from the National Portrait Gallery. This was a terrific museum, one of Tracy and my favorites. We liked that not only did we view the painting, but that there was also historical references to the subject and to the artist.

Our visit culminated by seeing the complete collection of presidential portraits.

It was already after four in the afternoon, and we had to start our trek back to the Hotel Rouge, because in a couple of hours the highlight of the entire trip would be unfolding; a visit with many of the storied individuals who make up the Fodor’s Board.

At 6:30 p.m. sharp, we arrived at Jack’s on 17th Street NW. There was a large table set up in the corner, so I knew that the event was still on and that the locals had not hightailed it out of town.

I decided the best way to recognize the Fodorites was to start with one of Jack’s signature drinks (well, it was for me), the incomparable Limoncello Martini. Oh baby, it was good!

Soon people began filtering toward the bar, a sure sign the Fodorites had begun to arrive, I presumed. I either looked drunk or perplexed, because I heard a woman say, “Are you Maitaitom?”

After answering, “yes,” she introduced herself as St.Cirq, who had made reservations at her local haunt (hopefully they have let her back in after our get-together) for this group of travel aficionados.

People began arriving soon afterward. The names were familiar and none have changed to protect the innocent. There before me was tdudette, yestravel, bubblywine, tzarinna, 309pbg, easytraveler and significant others. If I have forgotten anyone I apologize, but the wine began flowing freely and, as usual, it has taken me too long to write this report for me to remember everything. In any event, you gotta love “Half-Priced Wine Thursdays” at Jack’s.

The night went by much too fast, and I wish our conversations with many of the gathered Fodorites could have been longer. Kim and Mary showed everyone the book they had made of our Central Europe trip from the previous year. They incorporated the verbiage from my long (some might say long-winded) and detailed trip report, and added photographs we had all taken on that four-week journey.

As the evening wound down, rain started pelting the restaurant, and there were a few lightening bolts thrown in for good measure. The Gods were saying it was time to depart. I would like to add extra kudos to St.Cirq and yestravel who were instrumental in coordinating the event, and it was a pleasure to meet everyone who took time out to make it such a memorable evening.

I promised everyone before they left that, with only 48 hours remaining on our Washington D.C. timetable, I would make a concerted effort not to embarrass the city or its inhabitants in any way, shape or form.

Kim, Mary, Tracy and I stumbled back to the Hotel Rouge after this night of revelry with the Fodorites and quickly got ready for bed. A good night’s sleep was in order, because we were scheduled for an early tour of The White House the following morning, which would kick off our last full (and I mean full) day in Washington D.C.

COMING UP - DAY SEVEN: Act Of Congressman, Hail To The Chief, Hail To The Chief (of Police), Nearly Turned Into a Newt, Moon Rocks, We’re On The Road To Nowhere, The Lincoln Logs, Shut Out, Afternoon At The Museum, A Cut Above, Wow What a Pear and Bowling For Dinner?

I knew I forgot somebody from the DC GTG. Apologies to basingstoke2. I hope I didn't forget anyone else. Perhaps the haze will continue to clear after a few months.

After meeting you, how could I not forgive you? You are too modest in your role at the GTG. Does "life of the party" ring a bell? Really, the book on Central Europe that you guys put together is fabulous. Care to share the secret of how you did it?

"Really, the book on Central Europe that you guys put together is fabulous. Care to share the secret of how you did it?"

I will find out the details. Kim had made another one for our 2005 trip to Italy on an Apple program, but he said the program (not Apple) he used for our 2008 trip was much easier and user-friendly. I'll get in touch with Kim, and when I get the details, I will post them.

It was fun to meet you and the rest of the Fodorite gang that night. Thanks for the nice words.

"Care to share the secret of how you did it?""

basingstoke2, here is what Kim just wrote me. Good luck.

"Go to blurb.com and download the program (booksmart), and start playing with it. It is somewhat intuitive, but there is a learning curve. The on-line help is pretty good. I strongly suggest reading through the help and watching all the on-line videos before trying too much. It is easy to get frustrated at first. There is a lot more flexibility that there first appears. They just updated the program to add a ton more flexibility. Look at the books they have for sale for inspiration."

basingstoke2 is correct! "Life of the party" you were, maitai!

Great additional post as usual! Really worth waiting for. You're one of the few posters who can have us laughing and crying in the same paragraph. Hope that old lady is OK by now! Did you keep in touch? (with her, not that nephew, who sounds like a real dummkopf)

Thanks for coming back! Looking forward to the rest of your adventures!

"Did you keep in touch?"

We never got their last names, so I guess we will never know. Hopefully she survived and fired her nephew.

Love the most recent installment, but I got a bit confused when Mary ordered something other than seafood. Is this the same Mary or did life-saving make her seek a heartier protein? Doesn't she usually order seafood?

"but I got a bit confused when Mary ordered something other than seafood."

I guess all the excitement caught up with her after the medical emergency, and she turned into, for the time being, a carnivore.

MTT- Thanks for the link to the booksmart program. I think I'll give it a try.

"MTT- Thanks for the link to the booksmart program. I think I'll give it a try."

Good luck. It is such a great way to relive those trip moments.

Yes, our long national nightmare is over. Following are the final two days of our Washington D.C. adventure.

DAY SEVEN: Tennis Anyone, Act Of Congressman, Hail To The Chief, Hail To The Chief (of Police), Nearly Turned Into a Newt, Moon Rocks, We’re On The Road To Nowhere, The Lincoln Logs, Shut Out, Afternoon (Make That An Hour) At The Museum, A Cut Above, Wow What a Pear and Bowling For Dinner?

With visions of Fodorites dancing in our heads, which were still a little groggy from the previous evening’s wine consumption, we were ready to leave the Rouge by seven. This morning we had our appointed White House Tour that had been set up by the arrested (well, let’s say just say “previously detained”) congressman.

In an effort to clear our heads, we walked briskly toward the Obama residence at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue. Although we had not hooked up with Barack and Michelle for cocktails, we were hoping that they might have some espresso, mimosas and croissants waiting for us.

When we arrived at the spot where we were to enter and meet the congressman, there seemed to be a rather massive throng of humanity waiting outside the gate. Kim inquired with a park ranger, who told us that nobody was being allowed in at this time because someone was playing tennis on The White House tennis court, and the Secret Service was not allowing people who were not already on the property to enter the grounds.

We waited. And we waited. Then, walking toward the gate was a gentleman, who seemed very official in his confident stride. “Oh no.” the ranger said, “Here comes a congressman. I wonder which group he is with this morning?”

Kim took a slight glance toward the oncoming politico, smiled wryly and said, “That would be us.”

The congressman came down and asked why we were not being let in. “Because,” the ranger answered, “the Secret Service is not letting anyone enter.”

In a “let my people go” instant, the congressman said (very decisively), “Let them in now.”

As we chatted on our way up to the White House security entrance, the congressman asked Kim if he had heard about his “arrest.” Kim chuckled and said, “I read a little bit about what happened.”

Smiling, the congressman replied, “If I’m not arrested every few years or so, my constituents think I’m selling out.” He then added, “Of course, I did lose a little of my ‘street cred’ being detained by a lifeguard.”

The congressman escorted us to the White House check-in, bade us farewell (we would see him later for dinner) and we entered the White House. There was no sign of the First Couple (apparently they were getting ready to greet the Philadelphia Phillies later that day), but one guard said that first dog, Bo Boma, was prowling the grounds and there was a very slight chance we might get a canine glimpse.

No such luck, but the short, self-guided (well, except for Secret Service in each room that would answer questions and guards outside with sub-machine guns) tour did include The Vermillion Room, The Red Room, The Green Room, The East Room and a couple of other rooms whose colors and directional settings I have forgotten. We saw where the president walks out to deliver his speeches, and although the tour was shorter than we would have liked, it was still an interesting peek into our nation’s leader’s residence.

Tracy was impressed with how fresh and well maintained the rooms looked and that there were beautiful floral arrangements in every room, mostly peonies.

As we exited the White House, the four of us had that one collective thought that so often defines our trips -- Hunger! Nearby the White House is, of course, The Old Ebbitt Grill, and soon we were ensconced in a booth.

We were not sheltered enough, however, to not notice the person at the booth kitty corner to us. Isn’t that Bill Brattan?” Tracy said.

Sure enough, the Los Angeles Chief of Police was sitting within shooting distance, but fortunately since I was not on any L.A. “Most Wanted List,” we all could eat in peace. In all truth, the Old Ebbitt breakfast was nothing to write home about, and we all thought it was overpriced, as well.

Back out in the stifling heat, we could tell this was going to be an ugly, hot day in D.C., so we decided to walk back to the Hotel Rouge, change into some shorts and continue on trying to complete as many spreadsheet venues as we could on our final full day in the nation’s capital.

As we reached a street corner not too far from the hotel, Mary tapped me on the shoulder and said, “You won’t believe who is crossing the street only 20 feet from us.”

Hoping against hope that it was Shania Twain, I pivoted to my left and nearly turned into a Newt…Gingrich, that is. All of us were shocked to see Newt in the fresh air, because we thought he slept, ate and dwelled 24 hours a day at the Fox News’ studios.

Mary asked, “Are you going to say anything to him?”

I replied that my mom always said that if you didn’t have anything nice to say to or about someone, you should keep your mouth shut. Silently, the four of us trekked onward toward the Rouge.

After a quick change, we grabbed a cab and headed to The Washington National Cathedral. We paid the five bucks each for a guided tour of this vey lovely church. We learned that Woodrow Wilson is buried here and that Helen Keller’s ashes are also located at the National Cathedral.

The Space Window was very cool. In a tribute to NASA and the lunar landing, it even contains a piece of Moon Rock. We were told that the National Cathedral is the sixth largest Gothic Cathedral in the world and the second largest in the United States.

Fortunately for my companions, the bell tower was not open to be scaled, so we walked across the street to the nice gift store and ventured to the street to hail a cab.

Grabbing a cab at The National Cathedral turned out to be a 15 to 20 minute exercise in near futility, since this is not exactly a haven for taxis, but finally one picked us up. Unfortunately for us, our cab driver took futility to a new level.

We told him our destination was President Lincoln’s Cottage at The Soldiers’ home. As he scoured his map of the Washington D.C. vicinity, Kim pointed to the area where Lincoln’s country home was located. I surmised that a horse carriage transporting Lincoln could have made better time than we did.

Our cabbie feigned that he knew where he was going, but as time progressed we realized he was headed back toward Washington D.C. in the direction from where we just came, and although we kept telling him he was incorrect, our cab driver insisted he knew where he was going. Finally, however, he realized he was clueless, and we stopped for a moment for another map reading session.

A light bulb must have gone off in his head, because off we went on the correct route, and soon (well, soon might not be a slight exaggeration) we were deposited at Lincoln’s Cottage.

Before our tour (which had been arranged by Mary before we left for DC), we wandered around the Visitor Orientaton/Education Center that had numerous interactive exhibits.

The tour started at 1 p.m. and it lasted a little less than one hour. We had a very good tour director who imparted a great deal of knowledge regarding our 16th President of the United States. In many of the Lincoln Cottage rooms, the group was treated to either audio or visual presentations that made the tour more interesting.

Leaving the cottage, a sudden rain shower (yes, we were getting that east coast humidity now) hit. Fortunately Tracy came prepared with an umbrella, which she quickly put over the statue of Lincoln and his horse for a quick ‘photo op’, but once again she forgot to warn him about going to the theater.

Told that it was only about a ten-minute walk to the nearest metro station and since our previous cab ride had not provided us with pleasant memories, we opted for the walk/metro combination.

We headed back to the DuPont Circle stop, which was located nearby our next attraction, The Phillips Collection. I asked Kim why we were going to see a bunch of screwdrivers, and he just walked on, shaking his head. Yes, the trip was nearing its conclusion.

As we approached the inviting looking structure, there was a sign on the door stating the Phillips was closed for a “private event.” So much for being inviting, and we thought we would give it another try the following day.

Kim and Mary went in search of sustenance, but Tracy and I were on a quest to see more museums. Before we departed, Kim said to be sure to be back by 6 p.m. so we could get ready for “Ten Pin” with the congressman.

I thought bowling seemed like an odd thing to do on our last evening in DC, but Kim and Mary had been correct about everything else, so we just nodded our heads, grabbed a cab and headed for The Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History. It just so happened that a few hours later there was to be a special screening of “Night At The Smithsonian” on The National Mall.

Inside the Natural History Museum we were treated to an array of dinosaurs and weird looking mammals (although we had witnessed plenty of those in eight days walking around DC). We then scooted over to an exhibition containing The Hope Diamond.

Supposedly, when a French merchant first bought the diamond, it was more than 110 carats. “Man, that guy’s wife must have had massive fingers,” I told Tracy. Before Tracy could turn her head, I swear that some lady I had never met gave me “the look.” Today, after some careful carat cutting throughout the centuries, it still weighs a formidable 45 carats.

Speaking of weighing, Tracy and I weighed far less than we had after breakfast, so we decided to duck in and grab a snack and late afternoon libation before our strenuous evening of bowling. It was off to Zaytinya, located across the street from The National Portrait Gallery.

Since it was late in the day, we didn’t want to eat too much and spoil our dinner, and Zaytinya fit the bill perfectly. They serve “mezze,” which are actually “small plates of the Eastern Mediterranean and The Middle East.” We had also heard they served a mean pear martini.

We sat at the bar, and our new friend Kent (very personable bartender) gave us the rundown on some of the small plate items the restaurant offers. I said, “I hear you have a special pear martini.”

“Oh, you mean Aphrodite’s Pear.”

I said, “Wow, I don’t think I have ever seen Aphrodite’s pair.”

Kent shook his head (like so many people do when in my general vicinity), and said, “No. Aphrodite’s Pear is a martini made from Grey Goose Pear vodka, fresh squeezed Lime Juice and St. Germain elderflower cordial.” They also add a thinly sliced pear, which I believe can be considered part of your 5-A-Day servings of fruits and vegetables.

I took one sip and said, “Damn, that is one great martini!”

Tracy’s martini was also good. The Lemonas Maximus is a concoction of Skyy Citrus Vodka, Limoncello and fresh Lemon Juice. The pear martini was better, however.

For our spread, we tried the Htipiti. This delicious dish was comprised of roasted red peppers, feta and thyme. We would have liked to stay, but as they say, “Thyme was running out,” and we needed to get freshened up for our evening on the town. We told Kent we would pay him a visit the following afternoon before we headed for the airport. I think it was at this point that Kent considered early retirement.

Tracy and I quickly got ready, and the four us cabbed down to meet the congressman. As it turned out, we weren’t going to a bowling alley after all. Kim had actually said we were going to meet the congressman at “TenPenh,” which turned out to be a rather chic restaurant located at 1001 Pennsylvania Avenue.

Instead of defining the cuisine myself, I will steal this quote from the executive chef that comes from the restaurant’s website, “I've taken good solid French-based techniques, seasonal foods, and added indigenous ingredients from Thailand, Vietnam, China, The Philippines, Malaysia, and Japan. The result is a great restaurant called TenPenh. I would define the cuisine as Asian-Pacific inspired Contemporary Cuisine."

However you describe it, the food was exceptional. Tracy had the Red Pepper Sambal Halibut with cold peanut soba noodles and cilantro sauce. Not to be outdone in the fish category, Mary ordered pan-seared Sea Scallops.

Our congressman and Kim lassoed the “Cowboy Steak,” while I dined on delectable Lamb Chops with Black Bean Garlic Rice Noodles and Chinese mustard.

Because I hadn’t eaten in nearly two hours, I convinced the table to order a side of Wasabi Mashed potatoes, which has now become a staple at the Maitaitom and Tracy house and is why I always keep larger sized pants in my closet.

After a very interesting evening talking politics, the Washington DC area and solving virtually all of the world’s problems in a little more than two hours, we were on the metro back to DuPont Circle.

It was a very muggy evening in DC, so we felt like we were “getting out of Dodge” just in time. We packed our suitcases, looked over our final day spreadsheet (hey, there were still things to do and see) and drifted off to bed. I am relatively certain I dreamt mostly about Wasabi mashed potatoes and Pear Martinis (with just a hint of Shania Twain thrown in for good meaure) until awakened by a Mary phone call the next morning.

COMING UP - DAY EIGHT: Brunch At The Bookstore, Collection Notice, Da Planes! Da Planes! A Sobering History Lesson, A Not-So-Sobering Pair of Pears and Beating The Storm Out Of DC

DAY EIGHT: Brunch At The Bookstore, Collection Notice, Da Planes! Da Planes! A Sobering History Lesson, A Not-So-Sobering Pair of Pears and Beating The Storm Out Of DC

Tracy and I called our friend back in Southern California and were happy to be informed that we didn’t lose any cats on this vacation. The four of us checked our bags at the front desk of the Hotel Rouge, and amazingly even after our huge dinner of the previous evening, all of us were famished once again.

Although barely able to exit the Rouge front door thanks to our astonishingly enormous girths, we were able to waddle over to Dupont Circle for one last breakfast. Walking, I thought of the Carole King song, “I Feel The Earth Move Under My Feet.”

We had brunch at Kramerbooks (no, not a coffee table book that becomes a coffee table) and The Afterwards Café and Grill located at the bookstore.

The brunch included delicious muffins, orange juice, fresh fruit, café potatoes, along with coffee or iced tea. The Brunch Quesadilla that Tracy and I ordered was $14.95. It consisted of eggs, roasted corn, scallions, mild green chiles and jack cheese in a flour tortilla (God, we ate a lot, but still did not gain a pound thanks to General Kim and Mary’s 10 mile-a-day walking regimen).

Kim had the $14.95 Porker’s Brunch (appropriately named for this group’s eating habits) that included bacon, eggs and sausage. Mary had the mushroom omelete, which amazingly came in at $14.95. It wasn’t cheap, but it was good.

After brunch, we decided to take another crack at The Phillip’s Collection, and, voilá, it was open. I know this is a favorite of many and, although the building and environs are quite attractive, Tracy and I were not enthralled by the artwork that is contained within. Kim and Mary liked it a little better than we did.

Walking out of The Phillip’s, we realized this was going to be a brutal weather day. It was hot, overcast and so muggy that my sweat had sweat.

We had 1 p.m. reservations to visit The Holocaust Museum, which gave the four of us just enough time to visit one of Washington’s most popular Smithsonian sites, The National Air and Space Museum. It had been quite some time since I had seen this museum, but it never disappoints.

From space vehicles to the Spirit of St. Louis to my favorite, Orville and Wilbur Wright’s plane, it was a nice one-hour respite from the intrusive heat. In an Amelia Earhardt moment, we lost Tracy for a few moments, but she eventually showed up so there will be no History Channel shows on her.

Our last museum of the trip was The United States Holocaust Memorial Museum. We got here a tad before our timed entry, but were let in anyway a little before our assigned time.

The museum is three floors and you start on the top floor. It is, at once, both a fascinating and sobering museum that chronicles the rise of anti-Semitism and all the inconceivable events that took place during the Nazi regime and more.

My only complaint is that when you take the elevator to the top floor, it is so crowded that you have to bypass some of the exhibits you might want to see (unless you want to spend the entire day here) in the first part of the museum. There is also an introductory movie with a tiny theater that fills up very quickly, so if you get shut out (we did see it, fortunately), you have to wait another 20 minutes until it is shown again. They either need to limit the amount of people let in at any given time or do something about the timed entries to space it out better.

Crowds aside, once you get further into the museum, it is easier to move around and view all the exhibits. It certainly makes one stop to ponder how these horrors were allowed to be perpetuated by the human race, and the exhibits do not let the United States off the hook for its sometimes callous lack of commitment to the plight of those in concentration camps and turning its back to refugees seeking asylum. It’s an incredibly thought-provoking museum.

Back outside, after spending a little more than a couple of hours at the Holocaust Museum, we all had to choose where to spend our last hour or so before heading toward the airport. Kim and Mary decided to take the metro back to DuPont Circle and look for some books at our restaurant/bookstore and grab a quick bite.

Tracy and I had a slightly different idea on how to spend our last hour. Our motto was, “When the weather gets tough, the tough find refuge with a pear martini (and some appetizers).”

Back to Zaytinya we headed. A pair of Aphrodite Pear Martinis later along with some selected small bites, and we were ready to bid so long to Washington D.C.

We met Kim and Mary back at the Hotel Rouge. For $149 a night, we felt it was a great deal. Its’ fantastic location near Dupont Circle was terrific, the rooms were clean and the decibel level was minimal. Of course, I never got to try on the leopard skin outfits in the closet, but upon further reflection, that might have been a good thing for all concerned.

At the airport, as the four of us sipped our last libation of the trip, the local television weather reports expounded upon previous forecasts of heavy thunderstorms expected to come through the DC general vicinity in the next few hours. We said good-bye to Kim and Mary and hoped that our respective flights to San Diego and Los Angeles would get out on time.

We were supposed to depart at 6:30, one hour after Kim and Mary. We did not get out until nearly 7:30 and were told later by the steward that only three planes took off after us before Dulles was shut down for a few hours due to thunder, lightening and rain.

Upon landing, there was a phone message from Mary that they were being held up due to a maintenance problem. Did they or did they not get out? There was no answer from Mary’s cell.

We found out the next day, they were also one of the last planes to successfully leave before the big storm hit. It must have been the clean living the four of us displayed during a week in DC.

Washington D.C. was everything we had been hoping for and more. Kim and Mary had planned it perfectly, putting extra pressure on me to put together a great 2011 trip that will send the four of us scrambling all over France. Mon Dieu!

Everything from the Monument Death March to Gorgeous Georgetown to Magnificent Mount Vernon to Smithsonian Splendor to The Fabulous Fodorite Get-Together could not have been more enjoyable. In the meantime, we learned new martini recipes, dined at some spectacular spots, helped a damsel (well, an old dame) in distress and learned even more U.S. history in the process.

We didn’t terrorize any of the locals (well, maybe the Fodorites) and once again our motto held true:

Enjoy The Journey! Attitude Is Everything!

I have been following this trip report for months, thanks for finishing. Very enjoyable. DH and I just spent Labor Day weekend in DC with 10 friends, and we ate at Zatinya which was a highlight of the food portion of our tour (our tour included the Death March (hehehe), and the bar tour). Trip report to follow.

Great report all around. I will be looking forward to hearing about your adventures in France...

As always really enjoyed reading your report. It was even more enjoyable than usually reading your reports living in DC myself. u guys really did the town in more ways then 1. Nice that u did so much and had such a good time.

So glad I had a chance to meet u all. Enjoy Rome. Say Hi to the rest of the gang from me.

Bravo! Another great MaitaiTom Adventure!

yt, it was fun meeting all of you, and DC was a blast. Glad I could finally finish the report, although it makes Tracy sad because she and I love to relive our journeys. I told her, "Don't worry, there's always the video!"

Lori, I agree, Zaytinya was terrific. Lots of good DC dining spots and watering holes. Thanks all for the nice comments.

Tom, have you seen the latest incarnation of Top Chef on BravoTV? Zaytinya's Mike Isabella is a contestant. He has survived the early rounds and seems pretty arrogant, not an especially good public face for the restaurant, but he is well regarded around here for running a fine kitchen.

hi kayd! actually I think his personality matches that of the restaurant! Everyone loves Zaytina I know, I am not one of its fans 4 a variety of reasons.

I will check it out. I have interviewed quite a few chefs, and their personalities do run the gamut from gregarious to arrogant, although they tend to be on their best behavior in an interview.

We only met the bartender (who, as stated, was very nice), so can't comment on the rest of the staff at Zaytinya.

I will say the waitress we had at Zaytinya was absolute the best, and unfortunately her name escapes me. Personable, patient (especially with 10 people), explained everything on the menu in depth, and generally steered us all in the right direction. Couldn't ask for better service.

Thanks for finishing your fabulous trip report! I see a pear martini in my near future.

ditto. I'm putting it on my list. Pear martini...mmm! Thanks for the great report, Tom!

Thanks again for the journey.

I've got a hankering for a Lemonas Maximus now though.

Another uproariously funny post from the great maitaitom! Thanks so much for finishing this TR!

Looking forward to your France report next year!

Thanks for all the details on historical sites and museums. Bookmarking this for my next trip to DC later this year.