Montreal-SF by Rail: Heart Left in New Favourite American City
Jul 25th, 2006, 08:09 AM
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Montreal-SF by Rail: Heart Left in New Favourite American City
The excitement was palpable as we all crossed the SF Bay Bridge on Amtrak's Thruway Bus, as if sensing the energy emanating from San Francisco. Seeing the palm trees by the Ferry Building, I hugged two of my fellow train passengers (sounds odd, eh, but such is the bond of 55 hrs. travelling together) and taxied north to my guest house.
I could not have been happier with my guest house, the Parker Guest House, located 1 minute walk from Mission Dolores Park. The location was great in itself and for exploring other parts of the city. The B&B, largely Gay/Lesbian clientele, was extremely warm & social esp. at the morning continental breakfast and the afternoon wine soical. Both staff and customers were extremely helpful to a first-time visitor with suggestions. I told my parents though, that despite the fact that they'd be in the minority as heterosexuals, that they like open-minded straight couples I did see, would be happy to be in such a charmingly appointed guest house, with patio fragrant with beautiful, colourful vegetation (one gorgeous tree with purple flowers) and incredible views of that distinctive SF/Castro architecture rising up the hillside. My Dad would have enjoyed the wine social too, offering up two delicious California wines; I especially liked the fruity Forestville.
So my initial exploring impulse was to check out the nearby area. Mission Dolores Park I so fell in love with that I tried to make it there every day. The combination of the grass/palm trees, the SF skyline in the distance, the beautiful Spanish colonial turret of Mission High School (right there), some charming churches, the occasional "J" streetcar, combined with the ever-charming and diverse SF rowhomes and the peaceful, relaxed ambience of San Franciscans enjoying the park...all this combined to bring me a feeling of great contentment and relaxation.
Next, I went to the Mission Dolores church, the oldest building in SF and a beacon/reminder of San Francisco's rich roots as Yerba Buena, northern outpost of Spain's North American empire. Unfortunately (for me, not for the couple), there was a Mexican-American wedding about to begin inside, so I only felt comfortable enough to peek in the nave of the church (bold on my part, but I had to see inside!). Being from the east, I find my so pulled in by Spanish colonial architecture.
Next stop was lunch in the Mission, where I had a vegetarian burrito at Taqueria Cancun. Different from any Mexican cuisine I've had in Mexico in that rice was part of the filling. There was a fun energy on Mission & Valencia streets, abounding with restos, largely Mexican & Central American. Some people described the Mission as being like Mexico, but I would say Barely-Mexico-Light if anything.
Next I took the "J" streetcar with intentions of going to the waterfront. I bought a 3-day pass at Powell St. Station at the cable-car turnaround (it's not available everywhere) and then continued on to Embarcadero.
The Ferry Building had stores with wide selections of quality cheeses and olive oils. SF generally left me impressed with the ready availability of locally-grown, organic, free-trade foods and the promotion of healthy lifestyle foods. Much more prominent than much of the east coast I find.
View of the SF Bay & Bay Bridge were lovely from the Ferry Bldg.
Next, I caught the "F" streetcar west to the Fisherman's Wharf. Even though some San Franciscans told me to skip the Wharf, I felt I had to go once, to see it for what it is. While the central area of Pier 39 was a bit too crowded and touristy for my tastes, I very much enjoyed looking out on the water from the outer part of the pier. Lines of pelicans flew by, perhaps common but for me a beautiful, almost prehistoric-looking bird I'm not used to seeing in QC. The choppiness and colour of the water was almost hypnotizing and the fog rolling in over Alcatraz was a phenomenon unlike any other I'd seen. I truly felt I was in the most beautiful city in the USA I'd been in so far, no contest, and really felt lucky to have the opportunity to observe such marvel.
I went to Ghirardelli Square next, buying some filled chocolate squares for some friends back home (which I ended up eating on the train ride home. BAD BAD BAD *slapping my hand*). From there in front of Victoria Park I dipped my feet in the San Francisco Bay for the first time and soaked the ambience of people around enjoying themselves as equally.
Well, at this point, tired but satisfied, I caught public transit home. I couldn't believe what an amazing day I'd had and was thrilled to think that I still had 3 more days of great experiences in SF to come! To be continued....
I could not have been happier with my guest house, the Parker Guest House, located 1 minute walk from Mission Dolores Park. The location was great in itself and for exploring other parts of the city. The B&B, largely Gay/Lesbian clientele, was extremely warm & social esp. at the morning continental breakfast and the afternoon wine soical. Both staff and customers were extremely helpful to a first-time visitor with suggestions. I told my parents though, that despite the fact that they'd be in the minority as heterosexuals, that they like open-minded straight couples I did see, would be happy to be in such a charmingly appointed guest house, with patio fragrant with beautiful, colourful vegetation (one gorgeous tree with purple flowers) and incredible views of that distinctive SF/Castro architecture rising up the hillside. My Dad would have enjoyed the wine social too, offering up two delicious California wines; I especially liked the fruity Forestville.
So my initial exploring impulse was to check out the nearby area. Mission Dolores Park I so fell in love with that I tried to make it there every day. The combination of the grass/palm trees, the SF skyline in the distance, the beautiful Spanish colonial turret of Mission High School (right there), some charming churches, the occasional "J" streetcar, combined with the ever-charming and diverse SF rowhomes and the peaceful, relaxed ambience of San Franciscans enjoying the park...all this combined to bring me a feeling of great contentment and relaxation.
Next, I went to the Mission Dolores church, the oldest building in SF and a beacon/reminder of San Francisco's rich roots as Yerba Buena, northern outpost of Spain's North American empire. Unfortunately (for me, not for the couple), there was a Mexican-American wedding about to begin inside, so I only felt comfortable enough to peek in the nave of the church (bold on my part, but I had to see inside!). Being from the east, I find my so pulled in by Spanish colonial architecture.
Next stop was lunch in the Mission, where I had a vegetarian burrito at Taqueria Cancun. Different from any Mexican cuisine I've had in Mexico in that rice was part of the filling. There was a fun energy on Mission & Valencia streets, abounding with restos, largely Mexican & Central American. Some people described the Mission as being like Mexico, but I would say Barely-Mexico-Light if anything.
Next I took the "J" streetcar with intentions of going to the waterfront. I bought a 3-day pass at Powell St. Station at the cable-car turnaround (it's not available everywhere) and then continued on to Embarcadero.
The Ferry Building had stores with wide selections of quality cheeses and olive oils. SF generally left me impressed with the ready availability of locally-grown, organic, free-trade foods and the promotion of healthy lifestyle foods. Much more prominent than much of the east coast I find.
View of the SF Bay & Bay Bridge were lovely from the Ferry Bldg.
Next, I caught the "F" streetcar west to the Fisherman's Wharf. Even though some San Franciscans told me to skip the Wharf, I felt I had to go once, to see it for what it is. While the central area of Pier 39 was a bit too crowded and touristy for my tastes, I very much enjoyed looking out on the water from the outer part of the pier. Lines of pelicans flew by, perhaps common but for me a beautiful, almost prehistoric-looking bird I'm not used to seeing in QC. The choppiness and colour of the water was almost hypnotizing and the fog rolling in over Alcatraz was a phenomenon unlike any other I'd seen. I truly felt I was in the most beautiful city in the USA I'd been in so far, no contest, and really felt lucky to have the opportunity to observe such marvel.
I went to Ghirardelli Square next, buying some filled chocolate squares for some friends back home (which I ended up eating on the train ride home. BAD BAD BAD *slapping my hand*). From there in front of Victoria Park I dipped my feet in the San Francisco Bay for the first time and soaked the ambience of people around enjoying themselves as equally.
Well, at this point, tired but satisfied, I caught public transit home. I couldn't believe what an amazing day I'd had and was thrilled to think that I still had 3 more days of great experiences in SF to come! To be continued....
Jul 25th, 2006, 11:10 AM
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Day 2. I began my day as previously sitting under a shady tree in Mission Park just admiring. I then walked up Sanchez St. to Steiner St. past Duboce Park so as to make my way to Alamo Square where I would take that postcard picture of the "Painted Ladies" rowhouses with skyline in background. I must say that while these "Painted Ladies" are gorgeous themselves, that the walk offered up many varieties of this gorgeous SF-style rowhome in a wide variety of ornate mouldings/trimmings (sometimes gilded), colours and vegetation. I could not help but love the creativity and flourish of many SF homeowners.
Alamo Square was definitely up there for superb, enjoyable parks. I must have spent close to an hour just admiring the grass, trees & views (breaking and smelling eucalyptus leaves). Reluctantly, I pulled away from the park, my stomach telling me to eat. I wended my way down happening Divisadero and onto Haight, with a brief detour into the secluded paths of Buena Vista Park.
The Haight-Ashbury neighbourhood of hippie lore, while SFans told me it's not what it used to be, still seemed to have a moderately funky vibe. I ate at the People's Cafe; passerby people-watching was interesting for a creativity scale (as is also true in the Castro). I meandered up through the Panhandle Park, grassy, tree-lined, roller-blader and bike pathed pleasantness, turned around at Golden Gate Park, which was a bit too crowded with activity for the AIDS Walk (good to see, but I wanted a bit less busy).
The evening was low-key with wine social & supper at Daimaru (16th & Sanchez) for fresh, tasty sushi.
Day 3. Incredible day. I streetcared it down to Embarcadero, ended up walking to Fisherman's Wharf from there as the "F" streetcars were overcrowded. Stopped at Boudin Sourdough Bakery for lunch for their clam chowder in a breadbowl. What a treat the way the chowder would soak into the bread! No fog off the pier today and Alcatraz could be seen crisply.
A few blocks west of Fisherman's Wharf, I had inquired the other day about renting a bike at Blazing Saddles. The weather was perfect for biking, a good 74 degrees (the rest of the country was sizzling through a horrific heat wave simultaneously).
To cheers of "Bike the Bridge!", I set out on what must be the most beautiful bike ride I've done in my life. The SF Bay was a beautiful backdrop going westward from the piers, esp. once off the streets and onto the bike paths. The Golden Gate Bridge becomes ever more striking as one continues pedalling westward along Crissy Field.
The Bridge itself offers incredible panoramic views of the waters & islands below, although the foot traffic & careless bikers force one's attention away from stunning vistas. I took pictures on the bridge, I must say with a bit of vertigo and afraid to drop my camera what with the windiness and great height.
The view once across the bridge of the hills & crests of the Marin Headlands with the turquoise blue water/rocks below was simply incredible. Biking down the steep road to Sausalito, I was pleased to see how such beautiful steep hillsides of Marin County so close to SF has managed to fend off development. Sausalito at the base of the hill, had a charm with houses rising up the hillside and a pleasant waterfront.
Unable to fathom going back up the steep incline from SF, I opted to take the ferry ($8.50) from Sausalito back to Pier 43 SF instead. This scenic ride offered great photo ops as the boat swung close to Alcatraz, views of Sausalito with the wake from the ferry and good shots of SF together with the Bay Bridge.
I was amazed that after checking in my bike, I still had the energy to trek my way to Saint Peter & Paul Church, from which I decided to climb the 60 degree steep ascent to the Coit Tower. The Coit Tower was terrific for its panoramic views of water in multiple directions & the city. Superb as well was climbing down brick & wooden steps from the Coit Tower through lush, floral vegetation. A white parrot was hanging out on a banister, picking its beak with its claws during this descent. Soon I realized that all the squawking, noisy commotion above and around me were groups of large green parrots flapping about, and seeming like they were having spats with their fellow parakeets. Some of the stairwells had street names that people seemed to live off of... I found this charming.
That day, July 17, 2006, was a stellar day in my life. So much so that I didn't care that the pizza I ate for supper on returning to the Castro was mediocre.
I'll post the final day & some final words later...
PS Glad you're enjoying Faina, Bardo
Alamo Square was definitely up there for superb, enjoyable parks. I must have spent close to an hour just admiring the grass, trees & views (breaking and smelling eucalyptus leaves). Reluctantly, I pulled away from the park, my stomach telling me to eat. I wended my way down happening Divisadero and onto Haight, with a brief detour into the secluded paths of Buena Vista Park.
The Haight-Ashbury neighbourhood of hippie lore, while SFans told me it's not what it used to be, still seemed to have a moderately funky vibe. I ate at the People's Cafe; passerby people-watching was interesting for a creativity scale (as is also true in the Castro). I meandered up through the Panhandle Park, grassy, tree-lined, roller-blader and bike pathed pleasantness, turned around at Golden Gate Park, which was a bit too crowded with activity for the AIDS Walk (good to see, but I wanted a bit less busy).
The evening was low-key with wine social & supper at Daimaru (16th & Sanchez) for fresh, tasty sushi.
Day 3. Incredible day. I streetcared it down to Embarcadero, ended up walking to Fisherman's Wharf from there as the "F" streetcars were overcrowded. Stopped at Boudin Sourdough Bakery for lunch for their clam chowder in a breadbowl. What a treat the way the chowder would soak into the bread! No fog off the pier today and Alcatraz could be seen crisply.
A few blocks west of Fisherman's Wharf, I had inquired the other day about renting a bike at Blazing Saddles. The weather was perfect for biking, a good 74 degrees (the rest of the country was sizzling through a horrific heat wave simultaneously).
To cheers of "Bike the Bridge!", I set out on what must be the most beautiful bike ride I've done in my life. The SF Bay was a beautiful backdrop going westward from the piers, esp. once off the streets and onto the bike paths. The Golden Gate Bridge becomes ever more striking as one continues pedalling westward along Crissy Field.
The Bridge itself offers incredible panoramic views of the waters & islands below, although the foot traffic & careless bikers force one's attention away from stunning vistas. I took pictures on the bridge, I must say with a bit of vertigo and afraid to drop my camera what with the windiness and great height.
The view once across the bridge of the hills & crests of the Marin Headlands with the turquoise blue water/rocks below was simply incredible. Biking down the steep road to Sausalito, I was pleased to see how such beautiful steep hillsides of Marin County so close to SF has managed to fend off development. Sausalito at the base of the hill, had a charm with houses rising up the hillside and a pleasant waterfront.
Unable to fathom going back up the steep incline from SF, I opted to take the ferry ($8.50) from Sausalito back to Pier 43 SF instead. This scenic ride offered great photo ops as the boat swung close to Alcatraz, views of Sausalito with the wake from the ferry and good shots of SF together with the Bay Bridge.
I was amazed that after checking in my bike, I still had the energy to trek my way to Saint Peter & Paul Church, from which I decided to climb the 60 degree steep ascent to the Coit Tower. The Coit Tower was terrific for its panoramic views of water in multiple directions & the city. Superb as well was climbing down brick & wooden steps from the Coit Tower through lush, floral vegetation. A white parrot was hanging out on a banister, picking its beak with its claws during this descent. Soon I realized that all the squawking, noisy commotion above and around me were groups of large green parrots flapping about, and seeming like they were having spats with their fellow parakeets. Some of the stairwells had street names that people seemed to live off of... I found this charming.
That day, July 17, 2006, was a stellar day in my life. So much so that I didn't care that the pizza I ate for supper on returning to the Castro was mediocre.
I'll post the final day & some final words later...
PS Glad you're enjoying Faina, Bardo
Jul 25th, 2006, 02:17 PM
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My last full day in SF, I took the "J" streetcar to near the domed, stately City Hall and grabbed the #5 bus to Golden Gate Park and the de Young Museum.
The DeYoung Museum BTW is $2 cheaper if you arrive on MUNI (public transit)! SF is generally quite impressive with its initiatives for improving the environment I found, from ozone depletion free transit days to bike path encouragement to mainstream availability of locally-grown produce.
Anyhow at the de Young, I enjoyed the fine collection of American artwork, esp. landscape pieces by the likes of Bierstadt and Whistler. There was an interesting exhibit as well of quiltwork by women slave descendants from Gee's Bend, Alabama, which had not only significance because the quilts were intricately and creative, but also since they were the lifeblood of the community and a source of bonding. The view from the Observation Tower at the de Young afforded a nice panorama of the city from the vantage point of the Golden Gate Park (quite a bit south & west of Coit Tower, so very different).
I spent $3.50 to enter the Japanese Tea Garden nearby. While peaceful and shaded and I'm sure it's a modest fee for the upkeep, I don't think I'd go back, as I saw lovelier places in SF for free.
After lunch on Haight St. at satisfying noodlery Citrus Club, I took the #5 bus all the way to Ocean Beach (gotta love public transit passes that take you to the Pacific Ocean); the chatty, kind bus driver seemed pleased when I told him he might have one of the prettiest bus rides anywhere.
A quick look at the Dutch Windmill and gardens courtesy of Queen Wilhelmina at the far end of the Golden Gate Park, and I walked through the sands, wetting my feet in the chilly Pacific Ocean. Ocean Beach was lovely, bounded by the picturesque greenery and cliffs of Sutro Heights Park to the north and two defiant rocks jutting out of the water. In many ways as the waves lapped against my ankles, it all felt such a magnificent fitting end to a cross-continental voyage, imagining that the next land as I looked west would likely be Asia.
The next morning my continental breakfast companions all seemed to understand and commiserate when I said "boo-hoo. I don't want to leave!", knowing their turn would come soon also. Looking one last time out on that vegetation, those beautiful rowhomes on the hill and Mission High School and Park, I felt I just wanted to burn those images into my eyes to keep with me always.
Thank you, magical place and citizenry that make up San Francisco, for existing and inspiring. My only regret is that it took me 35 years to find you!
DAN
PS Faina, yeah, I'll buy that as an excuse to return
. Really any excuse will do .
The DeYoung Museum BTW is $2 cheaper if you arrive on MUNI (public transit)! SF is generally quite impressive with its initiatives for improving the environment I found, from ozone depletion free transit days to bike path encouragement to mainstream availability of locally-grown produce.
Anyhow at the de Young, I enjoyed the fine collection of American artwork, esp. landscape pieces by the likes of Bierstadt and Whistler. There was an interesting exhibit as well of quiltwork by women slave descendants from Gee's Bend, Alabama, which had not only significance because the quilts were intricately and creative, but also since they were the lifeblood of the community and a source of bonding. The view from the Observation Tower at the de Young afforded a nice panorama of the city from the vantage point of the Golden Gate Park (quite a bit south & west of Coit Tower, so very different).
I spent $3.50 to enter the Japanese Tea Garden nearby. While peaceful and shaded and I'm sure it's a modest fee for the upkeep, I don't think I'd go back, as I saw lovelier places in SF for free.
After lunch on Haight St. at satisfying noodlery Citrus Club, I took the #5 bus all the way to Ocean Beach (gotta love public transit passes that take you to the Pacific Ocean); the chatty, kind bus driver seemed pleased when I told him he might have one of the prettiest bus rides anywhere.
A quick look at the Dutch Windmill and gardens courtesy of Queen Wilhelmina at the far end of the Golden Gate Park, and I walked through the sands, wetting my feet in the chilly Pacific Ocean. Ocean Beach was lovely, bounded by the picturesque greenery and cliffs of Sutro Heights Park to the north and two defiant rocks jutting out of the water. In many ways as the waves lapped against my ankles, it all felt such a magnificent fitting end to a cross-continental voyage, imagining that the next land as I looked west would likely be Asia.
The next morning my continental breakfast companions all seemed to understand and commiserate when I said "boo-hoo. I don't want to leave!", knowing their turn would come soon also. Looking one last time out on that vegetation, those beautiful rowhomes on the hill and Mission High School and Park, I felt I just wanted to burn those images into my eyes to keep with me always.
Thank you, magical place and citizenry that make up San Francisco, for existing and inspiring. My only regret is that it took me 35 years to find you!
DAN
PS Faina, yeah, I'll buy that as an excuse to return
. Really any excuse will do .
Jul 25th, 2006, 02:43 PM
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Dear Daniel Williams,
A very impressive report. Thank you for a view through "new" eyes!
I've seen the B&B you stayed at and thought it looked very welcoming. I'm happy to see reasonable lodgings in the Castro/Mission area - it encourages the adventurous, such as yourself, to get out of the downtown rut.
Little FYI here - the locals refer to your fave hang-out as simply Dolores Park. I know of a couple who came here for the weekend and decided to move to S.F. after an idyllic sunny afternoon in Dolores Park....in February.
Cheers,
dovima.
A very impressive report. Thank you for a view through "new" eyes!
I've seen the B&B you stayed at and thought it looked very welcoming. I'm happy to see reasonable lodgings in the Castro/Mission area - it encourages the adventurous, such as yourself, to get out of the downtown rut.
Little FYI here - the locals refer to your fave hang-out as simply Dolores Park. I know of a couple who came here for the weekend and decided to move to S.F. after an idyllic sunny afternoon in Dolores Park....in February.
Cheers,
dovima.
Jul 25th, 2006, 03:05 PM
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What a lovely homage to SF--seems like you mixed the usual tourist attractions with the not so usual very successfully by staying in an area that most tourists do not stay. You got to experience what I think is one of SF's best qualities--its neighborhoods.
Jul 26th, 2006, 06:40 AM
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Dovima/SAB,
Thank you for the kind words. It's true I think that if I had stayed say, near Union Square or close to the Wharf, and hung out only around there, I might not have found the experience quite as magical. I found much of downtown (esp. Union Square area) personally to be too boxy and overcrowded with lots of chain stores one can find in many cities. I tended to use it only as a staging point for getting to places in the city that drew me in more.
Cheers! DAN
Thank you for the kind words. It's true I think that if I had stayed say, near Union Square or close to the Wharf, and hung out only around there, I might not have found the experience quite as magical. I found much of downtown (esp. Union Square area) personally to be too boxy and overcrowded with lots of chain stores one can find in many cities. I tended to use it only as a staging point for getting to places in the city that drew me in more.
Cheers! DAN
Jul 26th, 2006, 10:03 AM
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A beautiful and informative report Daniel, I am so glad that you enjoyed your time in SF and got to some of the out of the way places. And I agree, Union Sq.area is not like it use to be unfortantly although the renovated square is nice.
You must come back and do some more exploring. Thanks for sharing your visit in SF with us.
You must come back and do some more exploring. Thanks for sharing your visit in SF with us.
Jul 27th, 2006, 04:26 PM
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In case you were curious Elena, I thought I remembered and just verified on their website, that San Francisco's De Young Museum is the final stop of the Quilters of Gee's Bend exhibition tour and they will be there until Dec. 31st.
Thanks Loveitaly for your words. To be honest, I actually didn't see Union Square itself , I was only in the "area", right around the Cable-Car-Turnaround/Powell Street Station to buy a transit pass. While I felt more magnetically drawn to other parts of town, even there, I did enjoy watching an amusing tap-dancer-slash-comedian. On a return visit, I'll have to walk over to the square.
Cheers! DAN
Thanks Loveitaly for your words. To be honest, I actually didn't see Union Square itself , I was only in the "area", right around the Cable-Car-Turnaround/Powell Street Station to buy a transit pass. While I felt more magnetically drawn to other parts of town, even there, I did enjoy watching an amusing tap-dancer-slash-comedian. On a return visit, I'll have to walk over to the square.
Cheers! DAN
