Montreal-San Francisco By Train: A Journey I Will Never Forget
Jul 24th, 2006, 07:24 AM
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Montreal-San Francisco By Train: A Journey I Will Never Forget
Hi!
This trip was in part inspired by an adventure I had last year, taking the train across Canada from Toronto-Vancouver, an incredible adventure for which I wrote a trip report. That rail adventure inspired curiosity for the Western half of North America and along with my love for trains, the idea of taking a train further south in the United States was hatched.
OK the whole journey ended up not being by train in the end, but all was over land and went like so:
1. bus from Montreal-NYC (train was booked)
2. visit aunt in NYC, train to DC, visit family.
3. took Capitol Limited train to Chicago
4. California Zephyr train to San Francisco (5 days in SF)
6. Zephyr back to Chicago (1 day Chicago)
5. Lakeshore Limited Train to Buffalo
6. taxi to Niagara Falls, US; walk to Niagara Falls, Canada
7. bus to Toronto, train back to Montreal
DC-CHICAGO
I'll start from the Capitol Limited, since everything from this ride on was new to me. I expected this portion of the journey might be mostly functional, leaving DC in the afternoon, arriving Chicago the following morning. I was pleasantly surprised that this actually turned out to be a lovely stretch of rail, passing through areas that evoked Civil War times. The green-brown Allegheny River snaked along as a close-by companion for a long stretch of the journey, occasionally gently rapid but periodically calm. The terrain was hilly, tree-lined at times surrounding the Allegheny, the river dotted with islands of sediment and tree-strewn. Although Mark Twain speaks of a different locale, I felt the riverscape took me back to the Adventures of Tom Sawyer & Huck Finn.
On the way, we passed through lovely rolling farmland, at times curving gently, at other times in a steeper parabola. Harper's Ferry was lovely, with the river wide rushing over rocks and in places often abutting the steep tree-and-rock inclines; I was pleased to see this Civil War-famous town seemed to have preserved the feel of those forgotten times (I visited as a child). Just before nightfall, Cumberland, MD, described as the "Queen City of the Alleghenies" also looked lovely with its charming old (Victorian) wooden homes and narrowish streets seemingly perched on hillsides that abutted the tracks. This town evoked a simpler time and was one of the places I saw from the train that I thought I might like to re-visit.
I slept off-and-on and awoke to see mostly farmland, with bales of hay, horses and silos, dotted with trees. Soon Chicago approached and I saw the lovely turquoise blue waters of Lake Michigan before entering the city about 3 hours late, which meant I had 2 hours in the city before the California-bound Zephyr would hurtle me westward (ok, maybe chug-a-lug is a better verb than hurtle)
. The Capitol Limited I would say is a worthwhile alternative overnight trip from DC-Chicago for a patient traveller who wishes to see if they would enjoy train travel.
The westward train journey will continue shortly attached to this post...I had no idea what I was in for! DAN
Jul 24th, 2006, 08:43 AM
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After eating lunch and an hour of walking for an hour through the Loop area of Chicago, it was time to return for continued train travel.
CHICAGO-COLORADO ROCKIES.
The initial part of the journey from Chicago west is mostly yellow and green undulating fields, with the occasional lake. We crossed the Mississippi River on an interesting-looking bridge at Burlington, IA, held from above by metal (I think) rods, a style I'd only seen before in Winnipeg, Manitoba. Burlington itself had plenty of red-brick buildings, a number of church spires, but I saw nary a soul walking in town. Iowa had more trees, was less flat than I expected.
I woke up the following morning to discover that I had slept through Nebraska. My first time in the state of Colorado, the Eastern Colorado I woke up to was "big-sky" country, scrubs mixed with grasses, dried grasses and yellow flowers but few trees. Soon Denver approached and I was surprised that one could see the Rockies' peaks even east of Denver (I thought it would be like Edmonton, Alta., from which the Rockies are only visible a few hours west).
The Park Service in conjunction with Amtrak offered Trails 'n Rails west of Denver, two gentlemen spoke to us about the history and geology of the land from Denver to Grand Junction, Colorado. The observation lounge was quite full in this portion of the journey, offering larger-windowed views of both sides of the train.
Soon after Denver, the elevation rose, with grassy looking mountains looming ahead that we would steadily climb towards. There were some lovely views back toward the plains. After passing through a few tunnels, the terrain began to change to become more coniferous trees mixed with rocks. Some of the views were startling looking up, others impressive down below. We passed through the Moffat Tunnel, which I believe the Trails 'n Rails said was the 3rd longest tunnel in the USA.
The ride was getting by the minute more and more unbelievable. The Colorado River soon joined us, occasionally calm, periodically rapid. Kayakers and white-water rafters would be observed from time-to-time, either working their way through the tumultuous water or pulling down their shorts and mooning the train with a wiggle...
The eastern portion of the Colorado River (near Fraser) was breathtakingly lovely with steep slopes of scrub, rocks and conifers rising against the riverline. There were hints of red/orange landscape as we continued west that were a harbinger of what was to come.
Soon the ride was almost mind-blowingly spectacular, to the point that I felt almost choked with emotion and overwhelmed observing it all. The Gore, Byers and Glenwood Canyons, none of which I'd ever heard of before, were "awesome" which unlike some youth, is a word I do not overuse.
At the base of these steep, tall canyons were us, the rails of the California Zephyr and the ever-present Colorado River. On either side of us, were the almost otherworldly walls of the canyons, rising in layers of different colours of rocks and sediment, the strata sometimes being white, sometimes red/orange, sometimes yellow, sometimes ash. It was hard to believe that some of the landscape was not the vestige of some ancient civilization, with parts looking like rows of teeth carved out of stone and clay, areas that looked like great walls built in stratified slabs, fingers of orange/yellow rocks periodically jutting upward higher than other points of the canyon. The Trails 'n Rails guys informed us that this terrain was once "the inland seas", and the different strata of rocks/sediment of the multicoloured canyon was formed as these seas receded. I feel that no words (even picture) I could write could do justice
to these incredible landscapes.
I'm amazed people don't speak of Glenwood Canyon and others much; to me, they rivaled better known beauties I'd been to in my youth such as the Grand Canyon, Bryce & Zion. A place I felt that I might be interested in returning someday is Glenwood Springs, a charming-looking town & train stop nestled in the canyon straddling the Colorado River. Teddy Roosevelt used to stay at the Colorado Hotel here to refresh himself at the Yampa Hot Springs. I think I'd like to stay here, to appreciate the beauty of the canyons for longer, perhaps biking, perhaps doing rafting (gently) one day.
I felt overwhelmed as the day came to an end, the beauty of the landscape was just so continuous and ever-varying (you'd think "I can't be impressed any more" and then something new would pull you in to fascinate you). I'd heard people talk about the Colorado Rockies being pretty; I naively thought I knew what it all was about. I was mostly expecting coniferous trees and rocky landscapes, which would have been delightful enough for someone from the East. So what I did see exceeded every possible expectation I had of what Colorado is... I feel like a fool for not having taken more interest previously in the spectacular majesty that is the state of Colorado.
I went to sleep drained but happy. Nevada and California in the last installment... DAN
CHICAGO-COLORADO ROCKIES.
The initial part of the journey from Chicago west is mostly yellow and green undulating fields, with the occasional lake. We crossed the Mississippi River on an interesting-looking bridge at Burlington, IA, held from above by metal (I think) rods, a style I'd only seen before in Winnipeg, Manitoba. Burlington itself had plenty of red-brick buildings, a number of church spires, but I saw nary a soul walking in town. Iowa had more trees, was less flat than I expected.
I woke up the following morning to discover that I had slept through Nebraska. My first time in the state of Colorado, the Eastern Colorado I woke up to was "big-sky" country, scrubs mixed with grasses, dried grasses and yellow flowers but few trees. Soon Denver approached and I was surprised that one could see the Rockies' peaks even east of Denver (I thought it would be like Edmonton, Alta., from which the Rockies are only visible a few hours west).
The Park Service in conjunction with Amtrak offered Trails 'n Rails west of Denver, two gentlemen spoke to us about the history and geology of the land from Denver to Grand Junction, Colorado. The observation lounge was quite full in this portion of the journey, offering larger-windowed views of both sides of the train.
Soon after Denver, the elevation rose, with grassy looking mountains looming ahead that we would steadily climb towards. There were some lovely views back toward the plains. After passing through a few tunnels, the terrain began to change to become more coniferous trees mixed with rocks. Some of the views were startling looking up, others impressive down below. We passed through the Moffat Tunnel, which I believe the Trails 'n Rails said was the 3rd longest tunnel in the USA.
The ride was getting by the minute more and more unbelievable. The Colorado River soon joined us, occasionally calm, periodically rapid. Kayakers and white-water rafters would be observed from time-to-time, either working their way through the tumultuous water or pulling down their shorts and mooning the train with a wiggle...
The eastern portion of the Colorado River (near Fraser) was breathtakingly lovely with steep slopes of scrub, rocks and conifers rising against the riverline. There were hints of red/orange landscape as we continued west that were a harbinger of what was to come.
Soon the ride was almost mind-blowingly spectacular, to the point that I felt almost choked with emotion and overwhelmed observing it all. The Gore, Byers and Glenwood Canyons, none of which I'd ever heard of before, were "awesome" which unlike some youth, is a word I do not overuse.
At the base of these steep, tall canyons were us, the rails of the California Zephyr and the ever-present Colorado River. On either side of us, were the almost otherworldly walls of the canyons, rising in layers of different colours of rocks and sediment, the strata sometimes being white, sometimes red/orange, sometimes yellow, sometimes ash. It was hard to believe that some of the landscape was not the vestige of some ancient civilization, with parts looking like rows of teeth carved out of stone and clay, areas that looked like great walls built in stratified slabs, fingers of orange/yellow rocks periodically jutting upward higher than other points of the canyon. The Trails 'n Rails guys informed us that this terrain was once "the inland seas", and the different strata of rocks/sediment of the multicoloured canyon was formed as these seas receded. I feel that no words (even picture) I could write could do justice
to these incredible landscapes.
I'm amazed people don't speak of Glenwood Canyon and others much; to me, they rivaled better known beauties I'd been to in my youth such as the Grand Canyon, Bryce & Zion. A place I felt that I might be interested in returning someday is Glenwood Springs, a charming-looking town & train stop nestled in the canyon straddling the Colorado River. Teddy Roosevelt used to stay at the Colorado Hotel here to refresh himself at the Yampa Hot Springs. I think I'd like to stay here, to appreciate the beauty of the canyons for longer, perhaps biking, perhaps doing rafting (gently) one day.
I felt overwhelmed as the day came to an end, the beauty of the landscape was just so continuous and ever-varying (you'd think "I can't be impressed any more" and then something new would pull you in to fascinate you). I'd heard people talk about the Colorado Rockies being pretty; I naively thought I knew what it all was about. I was mostly expecting coniferous trees and rocky landscapes, which would have been delightful enough for someone from the East. So what I did see exceeded every possible expectation I had of what Colorado is... I feel like a fool for not having taken more interest previously in the spectacular majesty that is the state of Colorado.
I went to sleep drained but happy. Nevada and California in the last installment... DAN
Jul 24th, 2006, 01:38 PM
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The final morning I woke up having slept through most of Utah and ate some local cherries I bought at a charming local stand at the train station in Grand Junction, Colorado.
Apparently we were somewhere east of Winnemucca, Nevada when I woke up and seemed to be moving at a crawl. The landscape was desolate here, looking more like how one imagines a moon of Jupiter than Earth. Wrinkly grey mounds lay close in to the train tracks as larger mountains or mesas lay in the distance. The mesas were kind of amazing ("a-mesa-ing?" boo hiss) how they rose up and then at top were quite uniform in elevation.
The dry, scrubby landscape eventually gave way to some fertility at the Truckee River approaching Reno, Nevada; this town, more known for gambling than anything, was surrounded in most directions by mountains and was in a prettier setting than I'd imagined it.
A few miles past Reno and one had crossed into California, with the landscape morphing subtly but surely into one reminiscent of the Golden State. The landscape climbing into the Sierra Nevada was dotted with pines and firs; long flume structures I'd never seen before were built to the side of the Truckee River I guess to transport water?
The California Zephyr winded higher and higher into the Sierra Nevada. At one point we had an incredible view down to Donner Lake, famous in the late 1800s as a site where a crew of 80 cross-country emigrants were stranded in a snowstorm for several months...only 40 survived, apparently resorting to cannibalism to do so. While one could visibly understand how one could get stuck in Donner Lake, the powerboaters and sailboats in today's lake evoked an image much more of recreation in a gorgeous Douglas-fir-surrounded natural setting.
The sheer dropoffs (not quite cliff, as there were plants but very steeply sloped) of the forboding fir-and-spruce landscape (a small river looked tiny, snaking its way at the bottom far below) were incredible. In one spot, Emigrant Gap, apparently, everything from covered wagons to women & children to donkeys had to be lowered down many feet by rope, a narrator informed us.
Cruising downward from the heights of the Sierra Nevada, towns like Truckee & Colfax were stops evoked the Gold Mining Rush era from the signs on the storefronts. I loved the difference in vegetation from the east and how many people I would see with mini-vineyards in front of their hillside homes.
By the end of the journey, I almost felt like old friends with some of my dining companions as we sat and drank beer together in the Observation Lounge. A few were friendly Californians who regaled me with stories of state politics when I asked where Arnold lived as we crossed over the Sacramento River. Their enthusiasm for California geology and San Francisco, my final destination, greatly heightened my anticipation for this city I'd never been to before. The excitement was further fueled by wetlands, a gorgeous sunset as we crossed the Carquinez Strait and the continuous views of the waters of the San Pablo Bay before finally arriving in Emeryville for the connecting bus to San Francisco, my next thrilling adventure!
I will post a few final words with comments on the ride at a later time and separate trip reports on San Francisco and Chicago.
Cheers and happy travels! DAN
PS Thanks bardo1 and Scarlett for reading this trip report, as you have others I've written. I just developed the pictures and am simply thrilled although sad it's over
.
Apparently we were somewhere east of Winnemucca, Nevada when I woke up and seemed to be moving at a crawl. The landscape was desolate here, looking more like how one imagines a moon of Jupiter than Earth. Wrinkly grey mounds lay close in to the train tracks as larger mountains or mesas lay in the distance. The mesas were kind of amazing ("a-mesa-ing?" boo hiss) how they rose up and then at top were quite uniform in elevation.
The dry, scrubby landscape eventually gave way to some fertility at the Truckee River approaching Reno, Nevada; this town, more known for gambling than anything, was surrounded in most directions by mountains and was in a prettier setting than I'd imagined it.
A few miles past Reno and one had crossed into California, with the landscape morphing subtly but surely into one reminiscent of the Golden State. The landscape climbing into the Sierra Nevada was dotted with pines and firs; long flume structures I'd never seen before were built to the side of the Truckee River I guess to transport water?
The California Zephyr winded higher and higher into the Sierra Nevada. At one point we had an incredible view down to Donner Lake, famous in the late 1800s as a site where a crew of 80 cross-country emigrants were stranded in a snowstorm for several months...only 40 survived, apparently resorting to cannibalism to do so. While one could visibly understand how one could get stuck in Donner Lake, the powerboaters and sailboats in today's lake evoked an image much more of recreation in a gorgeous Douglas-fir-surrounded natural setting.
The sheer dropoffs (not quite cliff, as there were plants but very steeply sloped) of the forboding fir-and-spruce landscape (a small river looked tiny, snaking its way at the bottom far below) were incredible. In one spot, Emigrant Gap, apparently, everything from covered wagons to women & children to donkeys had to be lowered down many feet by rope, a narrator informed us.
Cruising downward from the heights of the Sierra Nevada, towns like Truckee & Colfax were stops evoked the Gold Mining Rush era from the signs on the storefronts. I loved the difference in vegetation from the east and how many people I would see with mini-vineyards in front of their hillside homes.
By the end of the journey, I almost felt like old friends with some of my dining companions as we sat and drank beer together in the Observation Lounge. A few were friendly Californians who regaled me with stories of state politics when I asked where Arnold lived as we crossed over the Sacramento River. Their enthusiasm for California geology and San Francisco, my final destination, greatly heightened my anticipation for this city I'd never been to before. The excitement was further fueled by wetlands, a gorgeous sunset as we crossed the Carquinez Strait and the continuous views of the waters of the San Pablo Bay before finally arriving in Emeryville for the connecting bus to San Francisco, my next thrilling adventure!
I will post a few final words with comments on the ride at a later time and separate trip reports on San Francisco and Chicago.
Cheers and happy travels! DAN
PS Thanks bardo1 and Scarlett for reading this trip report, as you have others I've written. I just developed the pictures and am simply thrilled although sad it's over
.
Jul 24th, 2006, 02:00 PM
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I will be doing the Chicago-San Francisco part, the way you describe it - sounds great, and I am really looking forward to the trip!
How was the food? Did you feel snacks were needed? Was the train late arriving Emeryville? Was the narration heard in the observation car only or in every car?
Who or what is Trails'n'Rails? Sorry, never heard of them. Where you with a group there?
How was the food? Did you feel snacks were needed? Was the train late arriving Emeryville? Was the narration heard in the observation car only or in every car?
Who or what is Trails'n'Rails? Sorry, never heard of them. Where you with a group there?
Jul 24th, 2006, 03:05 PM
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Dan,
Loved your report, particularly the Colorado descriptions.
Glenwood Canyon is truly spectacular. We have driven through there many times, but never on a train. The commentary sounds informative and interesting.
Thank you for bringing back memories.
Byrd
Loved your report, particularly the Colorado descriptions.
Glenwood Canyon is truly spectacular. We have driven through there many times, but never on a train. The commentary sounds informative and interesting.
Thank you for bringing back memories.
Byrd
Jul 24th, 2006, 04:34 PM
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Have you seen Michael Palin's "Around the World in 80 Days"? He actually gets off in Glenwood Springs overnight and does a dog sled ride and a hot air balloon trip. The scenery is indeed breathtaking. There's a bike path along the river (and train tracks) through Glenwood Canyon that is pretty spectacular.
Jul 24th, 2006, 08:46 PM
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Thanks to each of you for your kind comments!
Faina, in my mind, the California Zephyr is truly one of the great train rides of the world in terms of the scenery it passes. However, this Amtrak route is leased from Union Pacific which often gives priority to freight trains. One needs to expect delays on the order of a few hours and make contingency plans for this lateness. We were about 4 hours late in each direction. It's not for everyone; impatient people or those who don't plan ahead I think would go bananas.
There is food in the dining car served that comes with the sleeper car fare. Coach class may eat in the dining car or lounge car, but it's on a pay-per-meal basis. They have about 8 meals to choose from, supper options ranging from beef bourgignon to country-fried steak to roast chicken to salmon with veggies and a side. I found it far better than most airline food, and quite enjoyed the beef bourgignon. Not gourmet ya know, but IMO a few notches better than passable. Vegetarians might be frustrated and usually had one choice (cheese ravioli or stir-fry vegetables). It's not a bad idea to bring snacks for extra nutrition if you wish.
All the Trails 'n Rails Program means is that two National Park Service folks board the train (any Amtrak passenger may listen on) to tell tales relating to the passing landscape Denver-Grand Junction. The intercom could only be heard in the Lounge Car on the trip out, although seemed to carry to the Sleeper Car on the way back.
I was travelling independently, not with a group.
I hope you enjoy the trip!
Cheers, DAN
Faina, in my mind, the California Zephyr is truly one of the great train rides of the world in terms of the scenery it passes. However, this Amtrak route is leased from Union Pacific which often gives priority to freight trains. One needs to expect delays on the order of a few hours and make contingency plans for this lateness. We were about 4 hours late in each direction. It's not for everyone; impatient people or those who don't plan ahead I think would go bananas.
There is food in the dining car served that comes with the sleeper car fare. Coach class may eat in the dining car or lounge car, but it's on a pay-per-meal basis. They have about 8 meals to choose from, supper options ranging from beef bourgignon to country-fried steak to roast chicken to salmon with veggies and a side. I found it far better than most airline food, and quite enjoyed the beef bourgignon. Not gourmet ya know, but IMO a few notches better than passable. Vegetarians might be frustrated and usually had one choice (cheese ravioli or stir-fry vegetables). It's not a bad idea to bring snacks for extra nutrition if you wish.
All the Trails 'n Rails Program means is that two National Park Service folks board the train (any Amtrak passenger may listen on) to tell tales relating to the passing landscape Denver-Grand Junction. The intercom could only be heard in the Lounge Car on the trip out, although seemed to carry to the Sleeper Car on the way back.
I was travelling independently, not with a group.
I hope you enjoy the trip!
Cheers, DAN
Jul 24th, 2006, 08:57 PM
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Dan, I read your reports because they are always interesting and never ordinary. This is a classic example. Thanks again for taking the time to share ( and inspire)
Scarlett ( I hope it is cooler in Montreal than here! )
Scarlett ( I hope it is cooler in Montreal than here! )
Jul 25th, 2006, 07:58 AM
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Oh, Daniel, thank you for answering all my questions! Yes, I know that freight trains have the right of the way, so I'll take an additional vacation day, just in case... and if the train is back on time, a free day in San Francisco will not be wasted
Jul 25th, 2006, 11:46 AM
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I think my heart skipped a beat when I read "Author: Daniel_Williams" at the top of this thread, knowing he always writes such inspiring and descriptive reports that I feel like I was along on the trips. This was his best report yet!
Do you publish your pix on any website?
Did you use the sleeper compartments, or coach?
"Type A" personalities and those who won't take a train miss out on this fabulous and relaxing way to travel. Even when plans go awry it's a good trip.
Do you publish your pix on any website?
Did you use the sleeper compartments, or coach?
"Type A" personalities and those who won't take a train miss out on this fabulous and relaxing way to travel. Even when plans go awry it's a good trip.
Jul 25th, 2006, 12:00 PM
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Jul 25th, 2006, 05:09 PM
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Hey rb_traveller and Scarlett,
You guys are "awesome" and that's a word I don't overuse. I know you've both been reading my trip reports over the years and your appreciation means a lot, makes me want to write them, even when I'm tired and work obligations press. In a way, you (and a few others) have followed certain of my life's treasured discoveries as they've unfolded and it has been an HONOUR to share my journeying with you.
Rb_Traveller, I took a roomette sleeper for all train legs of the journey except Toronto-Mtl and NYC-DC. As for the pictures, for one trip, I downloaded the images and wrote some blurbs on virtualtourist.com; for some reason it never felt as satisfying or meaningful as on these forums, so I stopped.
Cheers, DAN
You guys are "awesome" and that's a word I don't overuse
. I know you've both been reading my trip reports over the years and your appreciation means a lot, makes me want to write them, even when I'm tired and work obligations press. In a way, you (and a few others) have followed certain of my life's treasured discoveries as they've unfolded and it has been an HONOUR to share my journeying with you.Rb_Traveller, I took a roomette sleeper for all train legs of the journey except Toronto-Mtl and NYC-DC. As for the pictures, for one trip, I downloaded the images and wrote some blurbs on virtualtourist.com; for some reason it never felt as satisfying or meaningful as on these forums, so I stopped.
Cheers, DAN
Jul 25th, 2006, 06:15 PM
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The final words of this train trip...THE RETURN JOURNEY.
The journey back on the California Zephyr was similar, but there were two notable differences. First, instead of Park Service discussion of the Colorado Rockies there was a guy from the California State Railroad Museum who discussed the history of Sierra Nevada region after Sacramento. Second, due to work on the rails, the train past through southern Wyoming (Green River, Rawlins, Laramie) between Salt Lake City and Denver. This was an unusual circumstance as the Union Pacific is doing work on the Colorado rails for a few weeks this August. To avoid disappointment, one may wish to phone Amtrak in advance to ascertain if the train indeed passes through Glenwood Canyon. While some complained, focusing on the relative desolation and lack of canyon on the Wyoming stretch, I found it quite eerily pretty with some lovely mesas and hoodoos in parts.
I spent a day in Chicago on the way back (first time there! trip report will follow) to ensure I wouldn't miss my ongoing train. The overnight ride from Chicago to Buffalo seemed like a speck in time compared to the other journeys, as I essentially ate dinner & slept & had a quick breakfast. A nice touch was that the Lakeshore Limited Train does pass quite close to the shores of Lake Erie around Erie, PA.
A word of warning for those who may wish to travel by way of Buffalo to Toronto (my first time trying this) is that Buffalo Depew Train Station is way outside Buffalo, with no taxis or onward transport waiting (esp. on Sunday when we arrived) to go to downtown Buffalo. The ticket agent called taxis for multiple passengers. I luckily was first in line and ended up taking the cab to Niagara Falls, US for $20 more than the fare to downtown. I decided to go all the way to NF since I knew buses left hourly from the Canadian side to Toronto and customs would be more straightforward with just me.
I then crossed the Rainbow Bridge on foot, admiring the power of the falls from the great vantage point above the Niagara River, neither in the US nor in Canada. Customs was quick into Canada and I wheeled my luggage down the River Road about 25 mins. to the bus station. Funny enough, I always thought about Niagara Falls, Canada as being honky tonk casinos, but there really were some charming Victorian B&Bs lining the River Road. A bus was waiting to go to at the bus stop, $23 were paid, and I met a friend in Toronto before returning home to Montreal on VIA Rail.
It was a great adventure, and I feel so rejuvenated from all the scenery and experiences! Hope everyone is enjoying their summer travels! Cheers! DAN
The journey back on the California Zephyr was similar, but there were two notable differences. First, instead of Park Service discussion of the Colorado Rockies there was a guy from the California State Railroad Museum who discussed the history of Sierra Nevada region after Sacramento. Second, due to work on the rails, the train past through southern Wyoming (Green River, Rawlins, Laramie) between Salt Lake City and Denver. This was an unusual circumstance as the Union Pacific is doing work on the Colorado rails for a few weeks this August. To avoid disappointment, one may wish to phone Amtrak in advance to ascertain if the train indeed passes through Glenwood Canyon. While some complained, focusing on the relative desolation and lack of canyon on the Wyoming stretch, I found it quite eerily pretty with some lovely mesas and hoodoos in parts.
I spent a day in Chicago on the way back (first time there! trip report will follow) to ensure I wouldn't miss my ongoing train. The overnight ride from Chicago to Buffalo seemed like a speck in time compared to the other journeys, as I essentially ate dinner & slept & had a quick breakfast. A nice touch was that the Lakeshore Limited Train does pass quite close to the shores of Lake Erie around Erie, PA.
A word of warning for those who may wish to travel by way of Buffalo to Toronto (my first time trying this) is that Buffalo Depew Train Station is way outside Buffalo, with no taxis or onward transport waiting (esp. on Sunday when we arrived) to go to downtown Buffalo. The ticket agent called taxis for multiple passengers. I luckily was first in line and ended up taking the cab to Niagara Falls, US for $20 more than the fare to downtown. I decided to go all the way to NF since I knew buses left hourly from the Canadian side to Toronto and customs would be more straightforward with just me.
I then crossed the Rainbow Bridge on foot, admiring the power of the falls from the great vantage point above the Niagara River, neither in the US nor in Canada. Customs was quick into Canada and I wheeled my luggage down the River Road about 25 mins. to the bus station. Funny enough, I always thought about Niagara Falls, Canada as being honky tonk casinos, but there really were some charming Victorian B&Bs lining the River Road. A bus was waiting to go to at the bus stop, $23 were paid, and I met a friend in Toronto before returning home to Montreal on VIA Rail.
It was a great adventure, and I feel so rejuvenated from all the scenery and experiences! Hope everyone is enjoying their summer travels! Cheers! DAN
Aug 8th, 2006, 11:04 AM
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Hi Dan - what thoroughly enjoyable reports!! Being a life-long train buff just made it that much more interesting. I ran into this post when I "stumbled" on to your post from last year on your trip on The Canadian. Having done that trip in two parts, your descriptive prose brought back vivid memories. My wife and I spent our honeymoon in the Canadian Rockies and we took The Canadian from Branff to Vancouver (yes, it was before VIA moved the route from the old CP line to present CN route). Years later, our entire family spent July in the Rockies and I talked my immediate family (which now included our daughter) and my sister and her husband to take The Canadian from Jasper to Montreal. Everyone loved it and agreed that it was a vacation in itself. Your descriptions were wonderful reminders. We've also done the Chicago - Wash DC trip, but on the American Orient Express. That was a fun and classy experience.
Thanks very much for the memories - and the reminder that there are some enjoyable options to sitting in cattle class at 35,000 feet!
Thanks very much for the memories - and the reminder that there are some enjoyable options to sitting in cattle class at 35,000 feet!
Aug 10th, 2006, 05:03 PM
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Thanks dfr4848
That Banff to Vancouver ride I bet was a beauty, and I'll bet the American Orient Express was a class act (did it go via Cincy or Cumberland/ Pittsburgh?).
It's funny how some people I know absolutely loathe trains; for me, every one I take makes me want more, even Amtrak, warts and all! Some people even asked me why I wanted to see the Colorado Rockies so much after the Canadian Rockies *sigh*. Mountains are mountains are mountains I guess is how they think. I'm still in disbelief over how different they are, something I had little inkling of before the ride.
Best wishes, DAN
That Banff to Vancouver ride I bet was a beauty, and I'll bet the American Orient Express was a class act (did it go via Cincy or Cumberland/ Pittsburgh?).
It's funny how some people I know absolutely loathe trains; for me, every one I take makes me want more, even Amtrak, warts and all! Some people even asked me why I wanted to see the Colorado Rockies so much after the Canadian Rockies *sigh*. Mountains are mountains are mountains I guess is how they think. I'm still in disbelief over how different they are, something I had little inkling of before the ride.
Best wishes, DAN
Aug 11th, 2006, 05:04 AM
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Dan - you're most welcome. The AOE was via the Cumberland/Pittsburgh route. We took the old PRR line to Pittsburgh and then B&O (CSX) from there to Washington. The Banff - Vancouver trip was indeed spectacular; I liked it better than the current routing.
I totally agree on the Rocky Mtn. comparisons. They're very different. Colorado simply doesn't have the vistas that the Canadian does IMO (eg, the drive from Lake Louise to Jasper can't be beat), but Colorado can have more "surprises around the corner" because the scenery can change so quickly - as you found out. Before age and related health problems intervened, my folks would rent a place for the month of July in either Colorado or Canada (usually Canmore/Banff) to escape the Texas heat. The kids and grandkids had open invitations to visit. I alwasy voted for Canada, but certainly never turned down Colorado.
Despite the warts and all as you say, I still have the Coast Starlight on my list of "must dos".
Thanks again.
Don
I totally agree on the Rocky Mtn. comparisons. They're very different. Colorado simply doesn't have the vistas that the Canadian does IMO (eg, the drive from Lake Louise to Jasper can't be beat), but Colorado can have more "surprises around the corner" because the scenery can change so quickly - as you found out. Before age and related health problems intervened, my folks would rent a place for the month of July in either Colorado or Canada (usually Canmore/Banff) to escape the Texas heat. The kids and grandkids had open invitations to visit. I alwasy voted for Canada, but certainly never turned down Colorado.
Despite the warts and all as you say, I still have the Coast Starlight on my list of "must dos".
Thanks again.
Don
