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Molokai and Lanai - a trip report.

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Molokai and Lanai - a trip report.

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Old Jan 22nd, 2007, 05:19 PM
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sistahlou
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Molokai and Lanai - a trip report.

Oh if ever there was a time to visit these islands, this was it. Dirt cheap airfare and discounted rates at the Lodge at Koele with 4th night freee!

But they changed our flights, which would have meant about a 3 hour layover in Honolulu. But not for gyppie! We not only did carryon from the Boston area...we made it on Wiki Wiki to Island Air in time for me to make a flight 1/2 hour after landing from the mainland. Left mrlou behind as I headed to Molokai for car rental and provisioning up.

Now why oh why do I trek to Hana only to meet up with Tyra Banks doing a photo shoot at Red sands naked beach? Well landing on Molokai, the most hawaiin and friendly isle I landed to a film company - Pirattes of the Carribean !!!
 
Old Jan 22nd, 2007, 05:22 PM
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Oh, this is going to be good.

-Bill
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Old Jan 22nd, 2007, 05:27 PM
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sistahlou
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Well seeing as the movie company rented the two available convertables, I was happy with my economy car. There were actually tourists on island stuck without a car because of poor planning and the movie company taking all the rental cars.

Well driving into twilight we headed to our cottage at the secluded Pu'u o Hoku Ranch on the most eastern side. A very well marked road, that when the next day I saw how close I was driving to the ocean at the speed, although still slow, I was driving, well ---- it is a most amazing road that rivals all on Maui. Arriving to our cottage, we pulled into the gravel driveway only to disturb a herd of about 15 axis deer.......oh glory we are home!!!!
 
Old Jan 22nd, 2007, 05:53 PM
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A simply fantastic secluded cottage! Just wonderful, and what a wakeup with sunrise views of Maui in the distance and the visiting Nene - hawaiin geese and so many other game birds - making me hungry. Well we chose this day to explore the isle, so heading out we made a pitstop to meet Keala our caretaker and a few ranchhands. After talking story for a few minutes we hit the trail for a good half mile before realizing we had a flat tire. You know how those machine lugnuts are cemented onto the tire....so I headed back to the ranch office. Keala and her darling son Keoki drove down with a real jack only to find that mrlou's irish got the lugnuts off and the tire was changed. They were both so gracious and happy even though we had interupted their morning.

We then talked a little more story about the island. I asked for a proper prununciation and story about all the signs I read about La'ua Point. Seems Molokai Ranch wants to build some million dollar homes on some very nice land. As an incentive to the island, they are offering dead end jobs and a bunch of unusable land, while taking beachfront glorious land and sucking the well dry of the island water. Some are for it, most are against it, yet it looks like regardless how the people of the island feel and have concern about water, this will go forward. Sad times indeed gyppei, sad indeed.
 
Old Jan 22nd, 2007, 06:03 PM
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sistahlou
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Well we had a wonderful day exploring this island. Stopped at the airport to have the tire fixed and then off to the West end. Molokai Ranch is on our hit list as we went down 2 roads trying to reach thier beach only to find that you need to be a guest with a passkey.....not loving these landowners!

Loved the island, but actually never swam in its waters. Alot of the island has brownwashed waters at the breakline. The west end had some fantastic beaches, but the surf was up a bit, so we happily took in it's beauty but did not partake. Brought a pizza home, which was rather dismal. Goes to show you, the best pizza on the island - when it is the only pizza on the island --can be horrid and still be the best! hahahahaha
 
Old Jan 22nd, 2007, 06:17 PM
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sistahlou
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Ah the day of reckoning....the biggest reason for travelling about 16 hours - The Mule Ride. As we had a 1.5 hour commute we left real early and had bfast at the Cookhouse. Arriving at the Mule ranch we were greeted by our guide - Kealani???? who asked us if we were there for the snorkle trip ----- ahhhh! a grand sense of humor to take us thru our day!!! Absolutely adorable, he has taken over for the sherriff of the colony who has fallen sick. We also talked a great deal of story about the lands and the hawaiin people and the homestead lands.

The mule ride was amazing. The whole time I kept telling myself how blessed we were to experience this amazing trip, people and forbidden land. It was surely an amazing gift. The vista is glorious, and the most beautiful part of the island. The history quickly darkens that beauty.

Another day I was talking story with my caretaker Keala and we laughed about how once she did the trip and a stupid tourist commented that the residents lived the life of Riley. The sherrif angrily responded - "You try being tossed off a boat at the age of 9 to swim or die, and then have your children taken from you years later!!!"

So the island is filled with past and present pain. But the people are wonderful, as we experienced at dinner at the Cookhouse-----THE BEST Downisland Musical entertainment EVER!!!! And fantastic food, too. Riding the mules and then breaking bread with others at the Cookhouse was one of those HUGE days in a lifetime.

Truly,unbelievably, amazingly BLESSED.

And we know it!
 
Old Jan 22nd, 2007, 07:29 PM
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awesome. and the best part is that you know how lucky you are!! we felt the same way when we explored maui-- especially the upcountry, inland parts.

great report!
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Old Jan 22nd, 2007, 07:46 PM
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sistahlou
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mahalo and mo to come....
 
Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 06:31 AM
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Not sure how much longer you'll be on Moloka`i, sistahlou -- but the young and talented Raiatea Helm will be performing at the Hotel Moloka`i this Thursday @ 7pm.

She's the real deal -- voice of an angel...recipient of multiple music awards...sings traditional Hawaiian, and has recently added some jazz tunes to her repertoire (ala Etta James, etc.).

Tell her Auntie Maria sent you! 8-)
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Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 09:31 AM
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Thanks for posting your trip report - I hardly ever read Molokai trip reports!
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Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 10:58 AM
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This is fantastic, can't wait for more!
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Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 11:06 AM
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Wait...Tyra Banks was naked, or the beach was naked?????
quot;>

The residents of Kalaupapa are so nice, aren't they? Their dogs have become their children--those are some of the most pampered pooches ever.
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Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 11:32 AM
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I think sistah was nekid and Tyra wasn't.

-Bill
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Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 12:16 PM
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You, you you,,,,,,you guys!!! Of course Tyra was nekid while changing out swimsuits! And of course no sane sistah is ganna get nekid near a supermodel with real ta~tas! Red Sands Beach is Hana's little slice of clothing optional heaven....or was. Pila and Marteeen will have to let us know on their trek to Heavenly Hana!

Anyhoo, Molokai was magical and the residents with their cats and dogs were a true gift. One resident actually recieved a bright yellow mustang convertable for Christmas! Good for him I say, although opening that baby up on the few miles of roads will be a challenge! It will be interesting to witness how this area plays out when the last of the residents is gone. The board of heath will move out, the national parks will take over, commercial endeavors will desperately try to build excusive resorts and golf courses, and the decendents of the previous residents of the fishing village will try desperately to get there homelands back. I'm rooting for the hawaiin people having the most beautiful part of the island returned to them to govern and share with others in partnership with the National Parks. One can only hope! And dream! Kealani, if that's his name, speaks well and passionately for his people and his island. As he gets frustrated he shrugs and laughs," but we are the friendly isle and must never forget that."

The eastern road is AMAZING! But only for those that love to drive on the edge of the ocean and have no expectations for the end of the road. What we thought was at first harrowing ended up being the highlight of each day. On our last drive I literally drove 5 miles an hour most of the trip, taking in the beauty, pulling over when the occasional car came by.
 
Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 12:19 PM
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sistahlou
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I am loving that typo "excusive resorts"
 
Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 12:40 PM
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sistahlou
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OK, so knowing that we stayed at the most remarkable place on the island, and witnessed the most remarkable entertainment at the Cookhouse - we will someday return. Maybe rent the main lodge and host a kickass party, with the ranchhands and Keala and Keoki of course!

So on Football Saturday we headed out for our 2.5 layover at the little bar in Honolulu's Island Air gateway. This is likely one of those you had to be there stories, but what the hey

A couple next to me were reading the Maui Bluuu Book, so I made an attempt at conversation. They were not all that friendly which is absurd when you're hanging at an airport bar waiting for your first trip to paradise and there is a person with loads of good talk story!

After a second attempt, I backed way off. Well this new guy on their other side starts talking story about living on Maui and you have to go to Olivine Pools and the Blowhole. I talk over them to him saying, Hey, didn't 2 people just drown there? he's like "yeah, that was knarly, tourists are so stupid, Just last week I was there and told this dude to get away from the break and 2 minutes later a wave washed him into the pool and he got cut up real bad, there was blood everywhere! But hey at least he didn't get washed out! That place can mess you u baaad!"

Those two unfriendly tourists slipped out without a goodbye. But hey, we may have scared them into not turning their back on the ocean, so talking gorey details in detail, can be a random act of kindness to two unkind souls!

Landing on Lanai we felt like we were home again. How wonderful for us to return to this island and it's people. It is very different from the other islands in that the very Phillipono locals add a different texture as imports to the Dole plantation, and now supporting the resort industry.

It is tremendous that after only 4 nights on Molokai, we would have been fine with journeying home to the east coast. Arriving on Lanai was like taking a whole new vacation. It was truly 2 vacations in one.
 
Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 12:58 PM
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LOL! Gorey story = random act of kindness.

...and I don't think Tyra's ta-tas are real. HA!

Keep it rollin...

-Bill
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Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 01:06 PM
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sistahlou
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Now Billy....you wouldn't know real ta~tas if they.........Oh never mind!!!!!!!!!!
 
Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 01:17 PM
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The sad thing is...you're absolutely right! And that is a good thing.

-Bill
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Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 01:29 PM
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Children...now behave! Carry on sistah!
 


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