Where are you all gathering to make your journey together?
My first thought: The City of New Orleans leaves Chicago Union Station at 8PM every night. It arrives in Memphis about 6:30AM (10.5 hours). On the train you have a bathroom within 60 feet of you at all times.
Drop off your luggage at the hotel and take off to see your sights until check in time.

I'd definitely stay downtown in the area just above Beale Street. The Peabody and Talbot Heirs Guest House are two options to consider here.

Here's my trip report for a visit I did to the city. What I actually did is located later in the thread:

http://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/possible-memphis-itinerary.cfm

and here's one for food:

http://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/memphis-food-experience.cfm

Note that Memphis is one of the best places in the US for BBQ.

Given mobility issues, it may well be a good idea to rent a car here unless you're sticking solely to the attractions right on or close by Beale. Though there was last I heard a shuttle service that connects the Rock and Soul Museum close by Beale Street with both Graceland and Sun Studios.

We lucked into a great rate at the Peabody on Travelzoo a few years ago and LOVED it there--what a grand place! I also periodically get emails with specials from them so you might see if you can sign up on their website to get them.

There is a trolley/bus that makes a loop through downtown, stopping at the major attractions (Beale Street, Civil Rights Museum). I read about the shuttle to Graceland and Sun Studios, but since we had a car, we didn't utilize it. Enjoy your planning--looking forward to reading another one of your outstanding trip reports!

Blues City Cafe is my favorite place on Beale Street. Don't let the guy that opens the door scare you before you even go in. Blues City has a good ribs, catfish, tamales, and thier seafood augratin is really good. Also good is Rendevouz for bbq.
Right around the corner from Beale Street is Gus's Fried Chicken. Very good and get the fried green tomatoes there too.

YOu said your Mom and Gladys weren't much for museums but I don't think you should miss the Civil Rights Museum. That along with Sun Studios were my daughters and I favorite things in Memphis. It's not a huge museum so the walking wouldn't be bad and it would get you out of the heat for a little bit. Have fun, we loved Memphis but didn't go in the summer!!

I am a huge fan of talbot heirs but those stairs are steep to get upstairs to the rooms. We loved Graceland and really enjoyed our day there. Not sure if you like art museums but there are two nice ones in town (Brooks and Dixon). Sun studios was an awesome experience too! We had a car and had no difficulty getting around. We noticed there were lots of smaller bus tours all over the city. We spent cocktail hour at The Peabody and had great fun people watching and duck watching. I enjoyed your NYC trip report and I can't wait for this one.

Will second spiro's food suggestions, though I wasn't able to get to Rendezvous, as they were closed for vacation when I went.

Much as I enjoyed the Civil Rights Museum (it's a must as far as I'm concerned, and one of the best such museums I've visited), I would consider it a sizable place, well worth spending a few hours or so in.

Of the two museums willowjane mentioned, the Dixon is a small house-style museum (with gardens) reminiscent of the Frick in NYC and Gardner in Boston, while the Brooks is a larger, more traditional style art museum. Given your mobility issues, you'll want a car to reach them. Both are certainly okay, though the art museum I liked best in Memphis was actually the Belz (right downtown and crammed full of wonderful Chinese carvings and sculpture, much of it from the 18th and 19th centuries).

and at Sun Studios you can "pretend" record with microphones on one of the studios - great fun!
I don't have a lot of advice -DH has been there but i haven't - but I look forward to the thread unfolding.

I would be careful about the heat - even going in May, DH said there was a LOT of humidity and hotter than he expected.

The other thing I remember, was that a hotel w/ a fridge is a must. Portions are HUGE in restos and DH often ate leftovers for breakfast.

So good to see some of you again and hello new friends!

tomf: Mom will be visiting central Illinois in September so we'll leave from Champaign. We were strongly considering the City of N.O. (if for no other reason than I love that song). But then my daughter took the Megabus from Omaha to Chicago last weekend. She reports it was clean, comfortable and had a bathroom. I checked the websites and the four of us can take the overnight bus to Memphis for only $155 -- that's the TOTAL for all four of us! You know how much we like a bargain We do plan to take your advice re droppping the bags at the hotel before we see the sites. Thanks!

bachs: Great trip reports! I've scanned through them once already and will take my time to glean every speck of info out of them next. I'm not sure about renting a car yet. At first glance it looks like most of our 'must do's' are accessible by trolley or that shuttle thing -- if I can figure that out.

mztery: Thank you! Thank you for reminding that Mama needs a refridgerator in her room for her medicine! I'd completely forgotten about that. It lets a whole lot of downtown hotels out, and of those that do offer in room fridges -- most were already sold out on our dates.

musicfan: I was trying to justify the extra expense for the Peabody (It looks so nice!) until mztery reminded me that we need a fridge. That makes it a no-go I need to learn more about the tolley and the shuttle to decide if we'll need a car or not. Was the trolley pretty easy to use?

spiro: How scary IS the guy at the door? lol. Blues City sounds great, as does Rendezvous and Gus'. Thanks!

paula and willowjane: I LOVE museums of all kinds. Ironically, I developed that love while dangling off my mother's arm. When I was a kid she took me to all of them and only admitted last year (when we were planning our NYC visit) that she didn't care for them much. Your info won't go to waste though. I'm already thinking this won't be my last visit to Memphis. Next time I'll take my husband. He lived there for a short time as a child and has never been back. He's a blues afficianado. He's always shared my enthusiasm for "regular" museums -- and I've dragged him through so many art museums in our 30+ years together that he's developed a taste for them too. Thanks!

We're frequent visitors to Memphis and after staying in LOTS of downtown hotels (including the Peabody), our current favorite is the Marriott Residence Inn. Their units all have fully equipped kitchens and their free breakfasts are really good! It's a couple of blocks away from the Peabody. They also have 2 bedroom units.

I've never taken the shuttles in Memphis, but I know there's one that goes to Sun Studios, Graceland, and a third place I've forgotten. It's free...you might want to check into it.

The Residence Inn is sold out for the weekend we plan to be there. I've made cancellable (is that a word?) reservations at the Comfort Inn Downtown for now. Have you ever stayed there, Susan?

You probably already know this edeevee, but did you just check online for availability at the Residence Inn? I've been able to get rooms at "sold out" hotels by calling the property directly--just a thought.

And even though you can't stay at The Peabody, definitely plan to have a drink in the lobby---it's gorgeous!

The trolley was easy to use and really reasonable because we were traveling on it mid-day.

If there's a hotel you like that has availability, call and ask if they can provide a small fridge. Especially if you explain it's for medication some places will accommodate you.

A friend just returned from Memphis - they did not have a car and between the trolley and a couple of taxis they were fine.

The megabus is a great deal but for an overnight deal where i might want to hit the ground running when I arrive I much prefer the train. The megabus is more likely to be on time, however.

When a train is scheduled to arrive at 6:30AM I don't care if it does not arrive at 8AM really. The bathroom on the City of NO will almost certainly smell better than the bus bathroom by the time you get to Memphis. The $39/pp fare is good.

edeevee - no, I have not stayed at the Comfort Inn, sorry

Huh? I knew not to trust places like hotrooms or priceline but I never would have guessed that if I used a hotel's own site they might not have accurate information -- or that they might provide a fridge even when it's not listed as an ammenity.

I may just stick with the Comfort Inn though. They have consistently good reviews on several websites. They're on the trolley line. They meet the fridge requirement. They offer a free breakfast -- so Mom can grab something to eat with her meds in the morning. And they are really well priced. If a great bargain pops up at the Peabody (and I can get a fridge there) I can still jump on it.

Speaking of the Peabody ... which is preferred, watching the ducks in the morning or evening?

As for train v. bus question, I'm sure you guys are right. Alas, I've already fallen victim to a combination of shiny object syndrome, nostalgia and a clever marketing ploy.

For years, my aunts, cousins and a couple dozen other women all boarded a charter bus on the Saturday after Thanksgiving for a huge mall in the Chicago area. The trip was less shopping, more rolling reunion. So, when I think 'bus', I get a warm, fuzzy feeling that the rest of the population probably doesn't share. Add to that the Megabus pricing strategy of Buy NOW While Prices are Low, Low, LOW! ... and I couldn't resist. I've already booked our fares

Day One Itinerary?

Arrive 8AM North terminal of Memphis Transit Authority. Purchase 3 day passes ($8/adult, $4/senior. Board trolley to hotel. Drop off bags.

Find breakfast. Where?

Make our way to Blues City Cafe on Beale by 11:15 to board the Big Mojo bus tour. Tour is on a reconditioned 50's era bus with singing tour guide, overview of the city and includes a one hour guided visit to Sun Studios.

Return to hotel via trolley 2:30-3:00ish. Check in. Nap or pool.

5:30ish: Back to Beale Street for dinner. Best barbeque downtown?

Explore Beale Street. Mom and Gladys are more rockabilly/roots rock/country fans than blues. My friend won't care as long as there is booze available. I love all kinds of music (and all kinds of booze too). I think the ladies would really enjoy some kind of Elvis impersonator type show. Is there a club that features something like that?

From what I recall, when I was able to get a room at a hotel that was showing as "sold out" online, but could get one by calling the hotel directly was that cancellations did not factor into the online inventory, but did show on the individual property's system. So if someone had booked a room, then cancelled it, it still showed as being booked. Clear as mud?

Since you are booking fairly far in advance, keep in mind that you can check prices for the hotel periodically and see if they go down. If so, you can probably get them to give you the lower price.

I just saved $20 per night by doing that for a reservation I have in August.

My advice would be to call first and see if they can just change it. If not, make sure you can get a new reservation before cancelling your current one. You don't want to cancel and then find out that there really isn't availability at the new price after all.

Oh, yay! Can't wait for the next adventure!

(I'd stay at the Peabody)

I can cancel as late as the morning of our stay so I'll definitely hang on to the rooms I have and keep checking others. Mama just told me her doctor is going to try her on new medication that doesn't have to be refrigerated!! If that works out for her, it makes booking a room a whole lot simpler.

Hi starrs, good to see you!

Most hotels can bring a small fridge to the room even when they don't advertise that. It's worth a call to ask if refrigerated medicine is limiting hotel choices.

You can always buy one of those small coolers that plug into your car or in to electric.

"5:30ish: Back to Beale Street for dinner. Best barbeque downtown?"

Haven't been to Rendezvous, but my guess is that's your best option. If you stick just to the Beale Street honky-tonk strip, I'd opt for Blues City Cafe.

There was (last I was there) an outpost of A&R BBQ in the area, also good.

Mama, I can't offer any advice but I loved your trip to New York and want to be along for this ride too Oh, and my mom wants to go to Memphis some day too, but I think it's my brother who will be taking her.

Five Alive

Hey Bachs, You said Neely's was the one bbq spot that was a "must", right? I see they have location of Jefferson that looks like it is only a couple of blocks off the Madison Ave trolley line. I think I read somewhere that this area of town can be "iffy" -- but 5 - 7 on a Saturday evening in early September? I don't want to put the ladies at risk but if walking a couple of blocks in daylight is not too scary, and leads to the best barbeque in town, I think they'd be up for it. What do you think?

Keep in mind there are different "Neely's" bbq joints. Neely's that you see on TV and Jim Neely. I think Jim is their uncle. They both have the "sock it to me" cake on their menus. Both of their bbq sauces are more on the sweet side.

Rendevouz has the Memphis dry rub ribs(they do theirs over charcoal, not wood). Blues City serves theirs wet, which in general, is not a traditional Memphis style rib. Intersting thing about Rendevouz is that the use oregeno(italian routes) in their spice rub. Rendevouz does have sauce on the side, if you want it.

Central BBQ is another favorite for most people. So is Corky's BBQ. There is also a place called Pig on Beale. Ihaven't ever eaten there, but it looks legit and looks like it's been there a while. Payne's BBQ is also a good on to try.

So ... are the dry rub ribs the ones Memphis is famous for? I've seen wonderful reviews for Rendevous but I've also seen a few bad ones. We will probably only have time for one barbeque meal. So many choices. How do I decide?

Everyone has an opinion as to which one is best. The ones I mention are usually on everyone's Top 10. Pick any of them.

Corky's is often at the top, it is my least favorite.

Rendevouz seems to get more of the attention on tv/food network/travel channel.

A few other things that you don't see at your typical bbq joint. Most of them have bbq spaghetti and bbq nachos.

Again, my three favorite places to eat in Memphis are Gus Fried Chicken, Blues City, and Peabody Sunday Brunch.

Interstate bbq is another place that is good.

I don't know that I have a favorite BBQ joint, they are all different but all good. Memphis sauce can be on the sweet side at central, neely's, and interstate. Some places have multiple sauce flavors.

Off the subject, but based on what you've said: You need to take the ladies to see Million Dollar Quartet - http://www.milliondollarquartetlive.com/
MILLION DOLLAR QUARTET is the new smash-hit musical inspired by the famed recording session that brought together rock 'n' roll icons Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis and Carl Perkins for the first and only time.

On December 4, 1956, these four young musicians gathered at Sun Records in Memphis for what would be one of the greatest jam sessions ever. MILLION DOLLAR QUARTET brings that legendary night to life, featuring a score of rock hits including "Blue Suede Shoes," "Fever," "That's All Right," "Sixteen Tons," "Great Balls of Fire," "Walk the Line," "Whole Lotta Shakin' Goin' On," "Who Do You Love?," "Matchbox," "Folsom Prison Blues," "Hound Dog" and more.

This thrilling musical brings you inside the recording studio with four major talents who came together as a red-hot rock 'n' roll band for one unforgettable night. Don't miss your chance to be a fly on the wall of fame... at MILLION DOLLAR QUARTET!
http://www.milliondollarquartetlive.com/about.html

spiro, We're definitely going to Gus's for Sunday dinner. Not sure on the bbq yet but if both you and bachs say Blues City is good we might stick with that just to keep the schedule simple.

Peabody's brunch sounds fabulous but I'm not sure I can talk the ladies into forking over that kind of dough for breakfast. They balked over $8 ice cream in New York and preferred to keep walking in the rain rather than spend $11 for oatmeal. I'm thinking we'll probably do drinks in the lobby bar and watch the ducks. Do they have a signature drink there?

starrs, I've been thinking we should have seen this when we were in New York last year and now ... omg!! It's in Chicago?! Mama will be in Illinois in Aug and Sept. Not sure how I'll get everyone to the city but I will sure try!

edeevee, yes -- Neely's (the one on Jefferson) served up the best BBQ I had on my trip to Memphis. My understanding is that the Madison Avenue branch of the trolley runs through some pretty dicey territory, though -- I took a cab over and back from downtown at the recommendation of the place I stayed. Personally, I wouldn't chance wandering around the eastern stretches of that trolley line given what I've heard. Also note that I keep qualifying the particular "Neely's" I went to because I've seen reference to Interstate BBQ with "Neely's" at the head. They're not, as far as I know, the same place -- and if the food they dish up is like what I had at their airport location, I can't recommend them.

spiro's right -- there are plenty of BBQ choices in Memphis, and opinions differ. I'd recommend avoiding Corky's and Interstate given what I had at their airport locations. A&R and Central and Blues City were varying degrees of "middle of the pack," but plenty good enough. Neely's and BBQ Shop were the places I liked best. Rendezvous is plenty well enough known (reportedly very good), and Payne's reportedly does a terrific pulled pork sandwich topped with electric yellow cole slaw, but both were on vacation and closed when I was there -- Rendezvous is centrally located downtown, while both Payne's locations are in very dicey parts of the city and would require a car.

My understanding is that Memphis is especially well known for dry rub ribs, though some mop a glaze on as well (BBQ Shop, Rendezvous) while others put on or at least offer a sauce. One thing I liked about Neely's -- when I expressed uncertainty about whether to order ribs dry-rubbed or sauced, they suggested I get half one and half the other. It turned out to be the best of both worlds for me.

As to BBQ spaghetti, I say yes, try it -- it's very good, and not something normally offered at non-Memphis-based BBQ joints. Many offer this as a side dish.

The other thing to keep in mind on BBQ is that even the best places sometimes have an off-day -- reportedly it's the nature of this type of cuisine.

Based on what the others have said, I'd pick a BBQ joint that is in a safe, easily accessible place instead of going in search of "the best". "Best" is subjective and my guess is your ladies will be happy eating BBQ in Memphis - and happier if they feel comfortable in their surroundings.

I agree with starrs, but also want to add that the bbq at the airport is not much like what those restos serve in their own locations (According to DH who tried several both in town and at the airport )
DH liked Rendezvous but especially liked Interstate. Be sure to save room for dessert! Pies/cobblers are great at both.

edeevee, suggestions from my Memphis friend - The Peabody is fabulous and the trolley system will allow them easy access to downtown but not much beyond that. Make sure they do the riverfront trolley tour for a great view of the river. The famous Rendezvous is down there for BBQ and everyone visiting Memphis should experience it. I would recommend there well above anywhere on Beale Street for BBQ.

Beyond BBQ they should consider BB Kings for music and the restaurant above BB Kings for some of the best food in Memphis. The upstairs place is tucked away and most tourists have never heard of it. To my knowledge there are no signs to get there but the name is Itta Bena. Enter on the side of the building under an awning and walk upstairs... It's a true hidden treasure for most people but you can find details on yelp. If I remember correctly they have piano music several nights of the week.

Sorry guys, busy times around here, plus I'm still bouncing back and forth on bbq spots. Just wanted to stop by and say thanks for offering your advice. I DO appreciate it!

Hi As someone who lives in Memphis, I just wanted to remind you that September is as hot as June with temps in the 90s and very humid. You mentioned heat and walking. October would be better if you aren't locked into September.
Don't forget about possibly riding the up- in- the -air trolley over to Mud Island. The Peabody ducks are just a 5 minute thing but the hotel is very old and neat.
As someone mentioned, Brooks Museum of Art and Dixon Art Museum are both great choices. Also the Pink Palace is an old mansion turned museum and one of our best. The Dixon has wonderful gardens all around it and will be pretty in September. Our Botanic Garden is gorgeous-but I know, enough with the walking!
Rendezvous and Neelys are two places people know from t.v. but are kind of overrated at this point. Locals still like Interstate as well as Corky's. Corky's is good but their restaurants don't have history so not as much atmosphere. (Yes barbecue is much better back at the restaurant as opposed to their airport locations.) Although our airport BBQ is better than some cities' restaurants. Germantown Commissary Barbeque is always packed and has been there many decades if you get a car.
I think you should rent a car and drive through some of the really pretty neighborhoods such as those around the 3 art museums I mentioned. Downtown isn't pretty at all. But if you had a car, and drove further in to midtown you could see some really pretty tree-lined neighborhoods.
Be careful downtown and around Beale. Beale is basically about 10 bars, great music, and drunk and homeless people. We just went to BB Kings and heard an awesome band. Their cover is $5 and cocktails $8 so it is pricey but they also have food.
We were named the 6th most dangerous city by U.S. News but luckily most of our murders are people who know each other and get into a fight. Still don't wander downtown at night aimlessly. Stay with the tourists. Restrooms can be really hard to find if you aren't in a restaurant or your hotel. We just don't have public ones downtown hardly at all.
I just wanted to advise about the heat especially when reflected off of the pavement.
Good luck and have fun!!

I don't know if I said this earlier. Everyone seems to love Corky's, so I know I'm wrong about it. But, it is my least favorite. I don't think Rendevouz is overrated, but I think Neely's is. But I would go back to all of them, including Corky's. Pretty much whichever one I'm at, I'm happy with.

Some of them have better sides. I can't remember exactly which ones though. Just because I think a certain potato salad, cole slaw, or mac n cheese is good might not make everyone's "best" list.

I think my problem with barbeque choices come from the sides. I like the idea of Tamales at Blues City and my friend LOVES catfish, but almost no one puts it at the top of their list for bbq. Rendevous sounds wonderful and I like the idea of the restaurant in an alley, but they don't serve bbq spaghetti -- and that intrigues me. Neely's and Interstate have the sketty but their locations are problematic. Neely's neighborhood is apparently dicey for 4 old-ish ladies. Interstate, we'd need a car for.

Richmond and others have listed some great points for renting a car but ... I just don't want to. I don't enjoy driving in unfamiliar cities. I find it stressful and it's not something I want to do on my vacation if I don't have to.

I wish there was a restaurant that served great bbq, spaghetti, catfish, tamales and sock it to me cake that was accessible by trolley or a short stroll from downtown. Since that doesn't seem to be the case, I think I'll wait until we get there then poll the ladies for dinner the first night.

I do think I've decided on our first breakfast. Miss Polly's on Beale seems affordable and yummy and puts us close to where we need to be to catch our tour later than morning.

Here's my Day Two Itinerary:

Mama grabs an early bite downstairs at the hotel's free breakfast so she can take her medicine.

10 AM: Breakfast - Blue Plate or Cockadoos?

After the meal - Catch the free shuttle at Rock n Soul Museum to Graceland. Take the Platinum Tour (3 hours). Maybe try a grilled peanut butter & banana sandwich while we're there?

Back to the hotel for a rest.

4PM-ish - Peabody hotel for pre-dinner drinks and to watch the ducks.

Gus' Fried Chicken for dinner.

7PM - Either head back to Beale Street or find a special event or show nearby that would appeal to the ladies. The other option is to satisfy Mom's new slot machine addiction and take a shuttle to Tunica. It's a 4 hour trip for $25/ea that includes $10 in slot play.

What do you guys think?