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Trip Report Jubilada's weekend escape to outer Cape Cod

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Needing to see the sea and to check out the rental we found online for our upcomming September two weeks in Truro, we set out for a brief , much needed weekend jaunt, about a 4 hour trip for us. We were spurred on by finding a real deal at TopMast, a motel ( we got an efficiency room) right on the beach in north Truro for $158 for two nights on this their opening weekend of the season. The room is very basic with a very comfortable bed, sliders opening directly onto the beach with views of Provincetown Harbor and use of the very nice indoor pool and fitness center ( which is open to the public year round for a fee).

We arrived friday afternoon to a glorious day, ate a lobster roll and walked the beach. It was glorious. We also read aloud to each other from Mark Kurlansky's "Cod", which is a fascinating history of cod and its place in several cultures, the Basque and the Pilgrims in particular. It was a great setting for this book, as , of course, Cape Cod figures prominently in it.

We went out to dinner in Provincertown at Napi's, a favorite from many years ago which has had a recent resurgence. We had great meals, mine Santa Fe style shrimp and my partner scallops provencale. We had planned on boulliabaise, but were taken with these dishes and were pleased with our choices. After dinner we went for a swim and hot tub, more reading, peering at the ocean and early to bed.

Saturday we indulged our new favorite cape breakfast: cafe au lait andcroissants and brioche form the excellent PB Boulangerie , taken out and eaten on White Crest, an ocean beach in Wellfleet. We ate , watched young men parasailing and generally adored the ocean. Sated, we went to check out the house in Truro. For those of you who know this area, it overlooks Mill Pond, a tidal Pond one block from Pamet Harbour, my absolutely most favorite spot on the cape and . The house seems gorgeous from what we could see peering in the windows, so we are pleased with our choice and the location is perfect for us. We hung around watching boats and birds before heading back to our beach to while away the day walking, reading, walking reading.

Mid afternoon we looked out over the bay and could see a pod of five or six whales swimming and blowing. WOW!

We met friend for an early dinner at the new hotspot in Provincetown, Ten Tables, sister to a restaurant in Cambridge. It is a farm to table place, quite beautiful. A couple of the dishes were wonderful, particularly a spring onion soup of vidalias and ramps and the chef's signature dish of shrimp and grits with chorizo and a poached egg, but generally we were way underwhelmed. Some of the food was cold, they were condescending about our saying so, and my ricotta cavatelli with spring veggies was tiny and and jamon serrano was very small and not that great, though it was wonderful to have fresh english peas. I will not return.

After dinner we went to Herring Cove to watch the sunset, which was spectacular, and there were more whales, the blowing against the orange, pink and purple sky! What a huge treat to see. Another early night, breakfast ( at which we had vouchers from our hotel) and after another swim we began heading home . we felt like we had been gone a long time ( in a good way), and it was much Springier at home when we came back than 48 hours before when we left.

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