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Glacier National Park - Planning

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Old Feb 10th, 2012, 07:12 AM
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Glacier National Park - Planning

I booked some inpark lodging way back several months ago. Two night at Swiftcurrent in Many Glacier and four nights at Rising Sun on St Mary Lake.

I will concentrate on the east side unless I end up flying Kallispell and then I may spend most of the last day in the Lake McDonald.

My main interests are photographing/seeing scenery (hopefully spectacular), wtaerfalls and wildlife (hopefully).

While I do enjoy shorter hikes, the longer ones are becoming harder as I accumulate more issues. To now, while I have avoided "difficult", I have been able to be non-stop throughout the day. We'll see how this year goes.

I'm working on the very easy scenery. Just off the GTTS road and a few other locations. I'll list those in another post.

This post will concentrate on hiking.
This is what I've put together so far hike-wise.

Many Glacier.
I have most of two days before leaving for St May Lake and some sunset photography.

Grinnell Glacier - shortened by taking the shuttle boats. I selected this over Iceberg since it's shorter (though more elevation gain) but mostly because it's got great scenery throughout the hike. This reminds me of Mt Washburn in Yellowstone though it might be harder on the body and easier on the heart.

A selection from Redrock Falls, Apikuni Falls, Swiftcurrent Nature Trail.

Logan Pass
Hidden Lake Overlook
Highline Trail. I selected this because it appears to have great scenery throughout so if I decide to stop part way and return I would be satisifed with what I saw.
Deadwood Falls?

Lake McDonald.
Avalanche Lake / Gorge?

Two Medicine
If I go there it will be on a "daytrip" so I have to allow for an hour driving in daylight each way.

Select from:
Aster Park Overlook that includes Aster Park Falls and Paradise Pt, Twin Falls or Rockwell Falls.

Depending upon how I/m doing I might be able to link together two of these.

Saint Mary Lake
St Mary Falls and Virginia Falls.

All comments and/or recommendations are appreciated. Remove, Add, etc.

Please remember that I don't want to add a 15 mile hike with an elevation gain of 2,000 ft. That might be more than I'm willing to try.
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Old Feb 10th, 2012, 07:13 AM
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I think I Forgot to mention. The second week of August.
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Old Feb 10th, 2012, 08:15 AM
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Your itinerary sounds great! I would definitely recommend the extra effort to get to Virginia Falls, I think it's probably the most incredible falls in the park. Here's some other great waterfall hikes: http://www.hikinginglacier.com/glaci...fall-hikes.htm. The Highline Trail is a must and if you only to go Haystack Butte which is a little over 3 miles one way you will see the most spectacular scenery along that trail. Two Medicine is my favorite part of the park...the lake is incredible!
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Old Feb 10th, 2012, 09:54 AM
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Are you buying Bear Spray? I figure you are hiking by yourself? You wouldn't need it if you were on a ranger led hike.

A couple of the boat tours looked interesting to me. I think a couple of them involve a short walk and one of them you actually get on a second boat. They looked easy, not very expensive and good.
I also like the sound of the Red Bus Tour that leaves from Glacier Park Lodge. It included a boat ride at Two Medicine plus the Red Bus tour. And it was just a short one (3 hours or so). The all day tours seem a bit much. We had planned on doing one to Waterton though.

Iceberg Lake and Ptarmigan Tunnel both looked good to me at Many Glacier. I think they were shorter than Highline, but I don't know the elevation gain/loss on those.

Hopefully, I will get to finally make there next summer. I think your plan sounds fine and you have allowed enough days you could do more or less and kinda go at whatever pace you feel like.

At least in Glacier you aren't at really high elevations to start with. A lot of the hikes that I've done in Colorado start out at 11,000 and then end up at 13,000+. I think a lot of your hikes will be just at the very beginning stages of what I consider moderate altitude(6,000 or so). I know you are at sea level (I am at like 500ft), so maybe that first day plan on taking it a bit easier.
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Old Feb 10th, 2012, 10:44 AM
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For St Mary Falls and Virginia Falls--- You will quickly find the St Mary Falls but the trail is not marked well after that. You will go by a few places where you ask yourself, "Is this the falls?". Keep going. Virginia Falls is a pretty tall fall and worth getting to. We had it all to ourselves because everyone else turned back thinking they had already seen it.
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Old Feb 10th, 2012, 01:28 PM
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wave,
I'm planning on St Mary Falls and Virginia Falls together.

You mentioned that Two Medicine is your favorite part of the park. What and why?

spiro,
First, I responded to one of your posts about Bryce NP. Only just recently and way after you asked. I've been to Bryce Pt twice for sunrise and never Sunrise Pt. I'm sure you can't go wrong with either but I had read about Bryce Pt before my first trip and it was spectacular. Bryce Pt deck actaully protrudes into the canyon. Both times I was there about 30 people were waiting for the sun to come up. It also gets quite windy there.

I'm planning on bear spray and won't hike there alone. I'm not sure who will be going with me. Daughter for part of the trip or friend for all. If I'm alone for part of the trip I'll go on ranger-led hikes or get together with others at the trailhead.

I don't think I'd do well on the Red Bus tour. I like to go at my own pace and if I see something I like I may explore a bit. A tour would restrict and frustrate me.

I know the Grinnell Glacier hike gets shortened somewhat by taking two shuttle boats.

Two Medicine also has a shuttle boat that shortens some of the hikes. And the boat rides might be nice even though I think these are intended to be shuttle and not leisurely tours. Going early and coming back later may give some great views.

Iceberg and Ptarmigan Tunnel are too long considering I already have a couple that are too long and I'm planning on them (Grinnell Glacier and Highline).

Yes, the elevation is lower than at some other parks. Close to what Zion is. That makes it a bit easier on the heart and breathing. I'll have to train a bit to get the legs in top shape.

Connie,
I have descriptions for all the hikes that I printed from hikinginglacier.com. I have maps and photos so I'll know when at each.

Thanks for the responses so far.

It's hard to imagine falls that are so small compared to Yellowstone Lower Falls or even the smaller falls at Yosemite can be spectacular but I found the height actually detracts from the beauty. I think Lower Calf Creek Falls can match most others.
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Old Feb 10th, 2012, 01:38 PM
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Link to the trail to Virginia Falls: http://www.glacierparkinformation.co...s/stmaryv.html
Last year the Logan Pass opened to regular traffic on July 13.
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Old Feb 10th, 2012, 03:56 PM
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tom,
Yes, I have that web site saved as well.

I selected the second week of August to make sure GTTS Road is open and snow will be melted in all places where it will melt (hopefully).
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Old Feb 11th, 2012, 04:59 AM
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I imagine you know this, but I thought I would mention it.
I checked with the airlines and you can't bring any kind of pepper spray (even in checked luggage) on an airplane. So, you will have to buy it when you get there. You can then donate it(hopefully you will have not had a need to use it) or just mail it back to your house.

Everything I read suggest that Highline is the best one. I don't think the elevation gain/loss is that much. It is just long. A lot of people take a short side trek(1 mile) to Grinnell Glacier overlook. I think that side hike has a huge elevation gain though.

Usually those bus tours don't appeal to me either. We took one in Yellowstone and enjoyed it more than we thought. It was a sunset tour and was a good way to wind the day down without little effort.
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Old Feb 11th, 2012, 06:49 PM
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FYI---just west of the footbridge at the bottom of Virginia Falls (across the creek) is a pit toilet. I was very happy to find it. It's not easily seen.
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Old Feb 13th, 2012, 12:27 AM
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Grinnel shortened by boat is not so easy due to the denivellation but it worth the effort...On the way back if you have time, it's nice to hike to Grinnel Lake and then back to the boat or hiking to many Glacier hotel.
Apikuni falls is short but...STRENOUS as the denivellation is in less than one mile.
Iceberg is not so long and scenery is stupendous.
The swiftcurrent pass trail is a must and you can hike till the foot of the pass ...It's about 4 miles with a very small denivellation and you have scenery, lakes and very good chance to see wildlife(bears, mooses,...).
At two medecine, twin falls is nice and you can go by boat at the trailhead and upon your time or back by boat and another small hike or longing one of the shore to hike back to two medecine store...
At Logan Pass, the hiden lake overlook is not a trail but you hike on a boarwalk...Nice but very busy...Not our favorite.
Highline trail is nice.
At lake McDonald, avalanche is nice and you can on the way back do the trail of cedars...
Finally while on the west part, the drive to Bowaman Lake worth the miles and there are some nice hikes there(Quartz lakes, Akokala lake). On Rising sun, Okotomi lake is not so hard and very scenic.
Good hikes.
August is a nice month to hike.We'll be there, again from July 30th to August 13th.
Itinerary is : 1 nigh Kalispell, 3 nights Bigfork, 2 nights Apgar, 2 nights East Glacier, 3 nights Rising sun, 3 nights swiftcurrent and 3 nights Missoula...
Erik.
NB : I've written some trip report on our precedent sejours with description of some hikes...
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Old Feb 13th, 2012, 03:10 AM
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Erik,
Thanks. I'll review what you wrote. I'm afraid that what you consider short and easy might be a little long and not so easy for me now.

I am a bit concerned about Grinnell Glacier being too strenuous but I will try to get ready for it.

Unfortunately it will also be in the first couple of days of the trip so I won't be used to the elevation yet. I live at zero elevation.

It appears our trips will overlap somewhat. When will you be at Rising Sun?
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Old Feb 13th, 2012, 05:38 AM
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I think I'm jumping around a bit so I'll try to concentrate on individual areas.

Two Medicine.
I'll most likely have one day. If I leave Rising Sun early (about an hour drive each way) I wonder if I'll have time for both Twin Falls together with Upper Two Medicine Lake (taking the shuttle boat) and then Aster Park (which includes Aster Falls and Paradise Point).

If I have to choose I wonder if anybody has done both of those areas and has an opinion.

Or, what if I plan on Twin Falls (side-by-side falls sounds interesting) and skip Upper Two Medicine Lake for Aster Park which I've read has spectacular views of Two Medicine Lake.

When I plan I always have a first, second and possibly third level plan. For some reason I almost always get done more than I think I can.

Logan Pass.
I realize Higline is probably longer than what I want to do. However, I don't think it's overly strenuous and I can turn back any time.

Many Glacier.
I selected Grinnel Glacier over Iceberg because I've read that the scenery on Grinnel Glacier is throughout the hike (and great views of the lakes below) whereas for Iceberg it's mostly near the end. True?

Also, I would go on the ranger-led Grinnel Glacier Hike. The problem with this hike is that I don't think I'd want to plan on not doing the whole thing. The highest elevation is about 6500 feet so it's probably similar to Angel's Landing in Zion as far as altitude and change is concerned.

The the issue is probably more the legs than the Oxygen.

Thoughts?
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Old Feb 13th, 2012, 05:59 AM
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We'll be in Rising Sun from august the 5th to august the 08th(finally 3 nights...).
For Iceberg, the first 1,2 miles are scenery with views on swiftcurrent valley, then it's in the wood for 1.2 miles with the ptarmigan falls in middle of the trail. Then it's very scenic with views on the valley where there are a lot of streams and falls...on the right and mountain on the left.
The advantage of Grinnel with boat shortening is that there are less people than in Iceberg...(Iceberg is the easiest middle difficult hike of this part...).
The most difficult part of Grinnel is the last 0.3-0.4 miles after the pit/picnic stop...I'm not sure it's a good idea to stop...Better to do the whole hike and walk to the Grinnel Glacier and have a good rest here.
We've seen a lot of people not able to make those final step after stopping 1/2 hour at the picnic spot...
For the highline, it's possible toi hike till the Granite Chalet and then back by the by-pass and so shorter and take the shuttle to be back at Logan pass.
Arrive early since parking in Logan Pass is not always easy...
Erik
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Old Feb 13th, 2012, 09:02 AM
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Erik,
Thanks - merci beaucoup. I'll be at Rising Sun the nights of Aug 6 - 9. I may shorten it a day or two depending upon who I go with. I don't like to shorten.

You are confirming some of the things I'm reading. Since the most difficult part of Grinnell is last little bit I could stop there if I have to. But it's not like me to do that. You are correct about stopping. Once you stop it's difficult to start again. It's very funny because after sit for a while I have to slowly move everything before I start again.

I have two days in Many Glacier but don't want to do two long hikes. I could always do the first part of Iceberg and Redrock Falls on the same day. Those two trailheads are near each other.
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Old Feb 13th, 2012, 09:04 AM
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Erik,
I forgot to mention. We'll be in your part of the world in June. We're going to Provence and ending in Paris for a few days.
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 12:18 AM
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We're in Bretagne, west part of France , in Vannes(golfe du Morbihan).
Our next venue in USA is in May in NY : museums, some musicals- Ghost/Porgy and Bess/Jesus Christ Superstar, and perhaps jazz(depending/program) and NBA or NHL if Knicks or Rangers are always in play off.
And evedently shoping for the girls + some restaurants.
Erik
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 01:22 PM
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Erik,
I see on the map that you're on the west side.

New York is a great city.

We hadn't been there in many years. Then we went in 2001 (a few months after 9/11), in 2007 (and Philadelphia and 2008 (and Boston).

Some of the things I really enjoyed was taking a subway to Brooklyn and then walking back on the Brooklyn Bridge, walking around Central Park early in the morning taking photos and the Staten Island Ferry. Great views of Lower Manhattan.

Also, excellent views from Top of the Rock.

Nw wildlife but you can walk all day.
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 01:47 PM
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Erik,
I reread your posts and I saw that you selected the first part of the Swiftcurrent Pass trail as a must.

This is excellent as I wanted to hike to Redrock Falls and that's the first 2 miles of that hike.

I'm having a bit of an issue with Two Medicine but I'll work on that.

I'd like to get to Twin Falls and Rockwell Falls. I'm uncertain about Aster Falls and Aster Park Overlook but would somehow like to plan this all in without making it too long.

Thanks for the help.
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Old Feb 15th, 2012, 03:54 PM
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Now of course I'm not sure(since I haven't been there)and I don't know what you want to do at Two Med. But, it seems to me that most of the stuff there is short and sweet or long and strenuous. And it seems that the short and sweet stuff has big payoffs. So, I imagine a day or even 1/2 day you could see a lot there. That was kinda the plan I had anyway. I was going to even include Glacier Park Lodge, Goat Lick Area and a meal at Izzaak Walton.
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