enzian

This summer isn't over yet, but we are starting to think about our plans for next summer---and aware that for some national park lodging, reservations should be made a year in advance. I have helped others with Yosemite and the Grand Canyon, and am hoping I can get some good advice here on Glacier.

We would probably spend a week to ten days there, in early or mid-August. Our major interest is hiking, and we are pretty strong hikers, but don't wish to backpack in Glacier. We love the old historic national park hotels, and I know there are several to choose from in Glacier. We also like a nice dinner and a bottle of wine at the end of the day. Are there particular types of rooms you would recommend at these hotels? I was thinking a lakeside room at Many Glacier, and either a large lodge room or large cottage room at Lake McDonald (which is better?)

I have ordered some guidebooks and maps, but while awaiting their arrival, I'd like to start thinking about this. So---what would be the best plan? Should we spend a few nights each at Lake Mcdonald Lodge and Many Glacier? Or skip that and just stay at Swiftcurrent? If we want to hike to Sperry Chalet and overnight there, should those reservations be made a year ahead?

Or is it a better plan to find a cabin or chalet outside the park, where we can settle in for the week and cook for ourselves? (I'm assuming there are no such cabins inside the park).

Finally, if we also wanted to visit the Prince of Wales Hotel in Waterton, is that a long drive from the US side of the park?

Anything else you think I should know in these early planning stages---fire away. Thanks!

hilda

We liked the location and atmosphere at Lake Mc Donald Lodge, on the lusher western side of the park. Its at least an hour to Waterton from the east side of the park, maybe longer. I would definitely get a guide book and read the national park web site to choose lodging. Make sure you take a Red Jammer bus tour Going to the Sun road. Personally, I think 7 to 10 days is way too long in Glacier, but I am not a hiker.

hugglynn

Enzian
I think with up to 10 days in the area, I would recommend adding Waterton NP to your itinerary. It's a great side trip with beautiful scenery. Take the boat ride across the lake if you go. Also, the Prince of Wales isn't really centrally located to the town itself, and while not far away, it sits perched upon the hill. You can walk to town, but it's not ultra-convenient. IMO, while we didn't stay there, we visited inside and if you like the ambience of the older lodges found in Yellowstone and the other U.S. parks, then you may want to stay. However, my outside impression was relief that we didn't book a room in the PoW but booked in town instead. It was nice for a visit (for us), but not to stay over.

Pegontheroad

I'd look at the reports on Trip Advisor with regard to Many Glacier. It was just lovely in about 1959, when I worked there as a college student, but I understand it has deteriorated.

enzian

Thank you all. Every bit of information helps. I should have said at the outset that we are avid hikers---a good vacations week is where we spend 6 out of 7 days in a strenuous hike. From photos I have seen, Glacier can keep us well occupied.

Pegontheroad---I think it may have been renovated since then. I have friends who worked there a few years after you---(we worked together in Denali in 1970). I have worked in a few national parks myself, and appreciate how wonderful and unique these old places are. While at El Tovar last April, I bought a copy of "Great Lodges of the National Parks", with photos and all the history. I long to visit them all! Even if they are run-down and the walls are a bit thin, I think they are well worth a visit.

pollyvw

Pegon, it was still lovely in 2005! Loved it. Not 5 stars, by any means, but lovely in a quaint way.

The day we left, the staff was putting flowers in the planters out front...and just as soon as the workers walked away, a mountain goat walked up (with tourists all around) and started munching!

jrzgrl

Hi, we spent our honeymoon at Glacier, Yellowstone, and the Tetons for 16 days in 2000. Glacier was definitely our favorite. We rented an RV for the 1st time and then cooked ourselves and we REALLY enjoyed it. I highly recommend a book if it's still available or maybe there's an updated version; "Hiking Glacier and Waterton Lakes National Parks," by Erik Molvar. Very detailed info. on all the trails. We never made it to Waterton because the road wasn't paved and our RV wouldn't make it. However, we hiked from almost all of the points.

Some of the hikes we would recommend-
Lake McDonald
Trail of the Cedars from Avalanche Creek, Avalanche Lake Trail, Garden Wall from Logan Pass to the Loop.

Two Medicine
Scenic Point, Dawson-Pitamakan.

Many Glacier-Swiftcurrent Lake Trail, Iceberg Lake Trail- can see the icebergs in the lake, Ptarmigan Tunnel-picked fresh huckleberries-just heaven!

St Mary-Our favorite hike-Lake McDonald Lodge to Sprague Creek-Beaver Medicine Falls, Sperry Chalet, Comeau Pass to Sperry Glacier. It was strenuous to do all in one day but it was worth it (about 2o miles). We walked on the glacier in the snow in August w/ 70 degree temps. and saw a family of goats on their merry way. The views are SPECTACULAR!!! Alpine meadows to the top of the glacier.

The chalet looked great and yes you do need to book a year in advance. I hear the breakfast is scrumptious.
I also recommend taking a drive along Going to the Sun road and hiking from there near Logan Pass. Be prepared though, it is FREEZING at Hidden Lake Pass-think sweater, windbreaker, hat and gloves-about 32 degrees w/ the wind chill in August! Many hikes to the upper elevations we wore our winter stuff and then peeled off the layers as we descended.

Also a boat ride from Many Glacier w/ a ranger guided tour. Saw a few grizzlies there.

You'll absolutely love it there! We did have one nice dinner after our Sperry Glacier hike at the Lake McDonald Lodge. All of the hotels are great, but they were just too expensive on our college budget at the time!
I hope this helps. We plan to get back in about 5 years once our three boys can keep up! Good luck and thanks for your advice on Seattle!

justme22

some of the best hikes are in many glacier, i've only stayed at the cabins there, the hotel was closed for the season when i was there. Grinnel Glacier, iceberg lake, ptarmigan tunnel.

Many glacier is my favorite area but i also enjoyed hikes at two medicine.

i stayed at apgar village one time, lake macdonald lodge another time. both ok. i booked sperry chalet for 2 nights a few years ago and really i mean really enjoyed it.

rather than doing sperry glacier in one day, you can do a leisurely day hike to the top of the glacier from the chalet, then the next day head out in the opposite direction... i reserved about a month after reservations opened up. it was the worst bed i ever slept in but the most spectacular location!

i enjoyed hiking around logan pass too. highline trail is fun.

you can easily go to waterton from the many glacier area it takes an hour or so. you need your passport to cross into canada.

i also stayed outside the park in east glacier, and then stayed in hungry horse for the west side of the park. ox yoke inn on vrbo. it's gone up in price since i've stayed there.

enzian

This is VERY helpful---thank you!

jrzgrl---The Eric Molvar book is one I have ordered. Can't wait to see it. This hikes sound wonderful. Now that I know what a strong hiker you are, I may post some more suggestions on your Seattle thread. Hopefully the October weather will be good for you---it is awful right now, so we deserve a nice fall!

justme22--you've inspired me to go for the Sperry Chalet reservations, 2 nights. Do the reservations open up one year in advance? The website is not clear. And then I phone? No web or fax reservations?

It sounds like the hikes we would like are in the Many Glacier area, so we will spend one night at Lake MaDonald on the way in and then head for Sperry aor Many Glacier.

Anyone want to comment on hiking in bear country? My husband is worried---he syas he heard too many stories when he was a young doctor in Missoula. This was in the 80's---I think they've improved the bear avoidance techniques (closing trails, etc.) since then? I have lived in Alaska and have a healthy respect for grizzlies myself, but I thought hiking in a group of 6 or more is pretty safe. Are there some hikes where one is less likely to encounter bears, such as the Grinnell Glacier or Iceberg Lake hike?

panecott

Enzian, I was there 10 years ago so my information may be a bit out of date, but I would spend two nights at Lake McDonald Lodge - it was really lovely and had a wonderful restaurant. I stayed in a lakeside cabin, which was quite nice, but I think the lodge itself would have been nicer - it just felt cozier.
My lakefront room at Many Glacier had wonderful views. The room was simple but had a lot of charm. I didn't care much for the big dining room at Many Glacier and wound up eating at a little restaurant down the road.
I also took a day drive up to Waterton, which was easy and relaxing. I was there in late August just before Labor Day and there was no traffic anywhere. But since you have 10 days, an overnight or two there would probably be a nice idea.
I also spent two nights at Apgar Village and enjoyed it a lot. It felt to me like a town in the old west. There was just a motel there but it was right on the lake and the views were awesome.
I only took ranger guided hikes because I was on my own and didn't feel comfortable going alone in bear country. There are plenty of trails and hikes to choose from in all the locations.
Can't comment on Swiftcurrent because I didn't stay there. Glacier is my favorite national park so far and I'm sure you will love it.
And BTW, it's not impossible to get late reservations but I guess it's a matter of luck. I booked less than a month in advance and managed to get the 3 places I mentioned. But if you know where you want to stay, you might as well book as early as possible.

justme22

not sure on the res. timing for sperry but what you would do is stay at macdonald and then hike to sperry as you use practically the same parking lot to leave your car for the trail head.

you could arrive at lake macdonald, spend the next whole day at lake macdonald then the next two nights at sperry. the morning you hike down, head over to logan pass and then end your day at many glacier.

i never ran into bears at grinnell or iceberg but that doesn't mean they are not there...

sperry chalet website says that 2008 reservations will not be taken til late Oct. 2007. Sperry Chalet's availability will be your most difficult reservation to make, so i would set up your trip around those days. the thing to do is to start checking the web site weekly in Oct. to see when the reservations are available.

the mountain goats hanging out at the chalet in the morning, and sometimes late afternoon are just great. I also ran into a goat and her kids on the way up to the glacier.(they tend to share the human trails up there!) please enjoy this great place!

jrzgrl

We encountered a few bears in the distance in various parts of the park. The main piece of advice we followed was given to us by the rangers: Every 5-10 minutes or so when you're hiking, call out in a loud strong voice, so the bears hear you coming ahead of time. We used to say, "HEY BEAR..." Yes, you feel a little ridiculous, but the rangers told us repeatedly, you DO NOT want to sneak up on a bear, especially a Mom w/ her cubs or a bear feeding. Also, we did buy some bear pepper spray, just in case. Our friends bought us a book, "The Worst Case Scenario Survival Handbook by Joshua Piven and David Borgenicht." It was sort of a joke at first, but it actually has some good info. If you do encounter a bear, here are some tips given to us by the rangers:
Stay very calm. Talk in an even voice and slowly back away, don't run. Also, I found a site that has detailed info. on dealing w/ attacks vs. encounters.

http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/ab/banff/v...isit12_e.asp#3

Also, I do recall something from the rangers that there were different methods in dealing w/ black vs grizzly bears. Remember that black bears can be brown, black, or even blond. Grizzlies have the bigger hump and don't climb trees well. Black bears have the short snout and rounded hump.

Most likely you won't have a close encounter w/ a bear. Seeing them at a safe distance is fascinating. Ask the rangers before you go on a hike if they have had any bear sightings and on which trails. You guys should be fine as long as you continually make your presence known.

PS My husband is a physician too, GI. What about yours? I was an OT before I was a SAHM to our three boys.

Good luck again and feel free to ask anything else. We just got our AAA books for Seattle, so we're trying to narrow our itinerary down. Thanks in advance!

enzian

When we hiked in the Lake Louise area a couple of summers ago, we found lots of measures in place to avoid human-bear enounters. The trail around Lake Louise was closed when a sow and cub were spotted nearby. In the Moraine Lake area, hikers were required to hike in a group of six or more. Does Glacier implement any policies like these?

I'm sure the bear encounters are rare, but I had a friend who was attacked in Alaska, so the potential danger seems very real to me.

Hi jrzgrl--my husband is a medical oncologist. I considered going into PT in college, but was told I was "too small" to do the lifting, etc. I'm sure it's very different now.

John

Hello from Northwest Montana

Glacier Park will close trails if Griz are "hanging around". In fact, Iceberg Lake and Ptarmigan trail are closed until further notice as a family of Griz are running around the area.
Bear attacks are rare but one never can be too carefull!! Loud noise and bear spray are a must.

Happy trails

jrzgrl

Well hopefully you guys will only see the bears from a distance. They don't impose hiking in groups. Most of the time my husband and I hiked alone and never saw a soul until we got back to the trailhead.

As for the PT lifting, their advice probably saved your back; I had a PT friend who was trying to teach an obese patient how to walk after a knee replacement and she herniated several discs after the patient accidently pulled on her arm.

My husband works in a multispecialty group w/ 2 oncologists, nicest guys ever.

I hope your trip goes well. We can't WAIT to get back.