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Fall leaves in Wisconsin

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Since moving to Florida a couple of years ago, we miss seeing fall colors! We want to take full advantage of a work trip to Milwaukee Oct 4-7 to see gorgeous leaves, by tacking on a couple of nights in a cabin in the woods somewhere we could go hiking, make s'mores on a campfire, and otherwise soak up autumn.

Where do outdoorsy Fodorites recommend? I recall a boat tour through the Wisconsin Dells when I was young, but that was long ago and that area seems to have been built up a lot since those days. Is there anything to do near Rowley Bay, (named after one of my mom's ancestors?)

I'm not sure if we're flying into O'Hare or Milwaukee. I like being able to do everything by train/bike/public transit, but expect we'll have to get a rental car, especially because we want to visit the town near Appleton where my dad grew up.

By the way, "we" who will be traveling are me and my son, who will be celebrating his 10th birthday on this trip.

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