Tip #1: Buy your Metro Card in the terminal or at the Hudson News Stand before you leave the airport.
I meant to follow this one, I did, but the ease of getting out of LGA threw me off. Seriously, we stepped off the plane, crossed a corridor, took a down escalator, marched a few more steps to the already waiting luggage, then it was out the door.
Stunned and with no Metro Card in hand, I followed Tip #2: Don’t bother hiring a car service; take a taxi. It’s easier and possibly cheaper.
I’m not sure it could have been any simpler to get to our hotel. The taxi stand was within shouting distance of our exit door. We snagged an SUV style cab with plenty of room for our luggage and we were off. The trip cost $41 (including tip) which I thought was a bargain since it also served the purpose of a thrill ride for Mom and Gladys. They’d been in cabs before but, in most other cities, taxi riding is a kinder, gentler sport than it is in New York. Their eyes were as big as saucers as our driver wove through the afternoon traffic and they were grateful for the handholds. The driver was friendly, courteous and smart too. He even knew how many flags fly outside the United Nations building.
On to Tip #3: Public transportation in New York is so plentiful and so efficient that it doesn’t really matter what area of town you stay in.
And Tip #4: Times Square is a zoo. Don’t stay there.
I was disappointed when I won Priceline rooms at the Hilton Manhattan East near the corner of 42nd Street and 2nd Avenue. I worried that we were too far away from the action to really enjoy our stay. I was wrong. The M42 Crosstown bus stopped right outside our door. The M15 select was less than a block away and the M103 was only a little farther than that. We never waited longer than a minute or two for a cab to pull up right outside either.
You were right about Times Square as well. As promised, we were glad to get away from the noise and crush of people at the end of the day and the Hilton was the perfect spot for that. Our rooms were small but not impossibly so. They were impeccably clean (as was the rest of the hotel). The beds were comfy. The staff, from the door man to the desk clerk to the bartender were nice to the point of doting. All this for $171/night per room.
We’d barely checked in when Mom and Gladys announced they were raring to go, so …
Time for Tip #5: If you’ll be in the city for more than three days, get a 7 day unlimited transit card. The money you save will more than pay for the $29 ticket.
Tip # 6: The city’s seniors rely on the bus service. It stops every block or two, is air conditioned and, most of the time, younger people will give up their seats for the elderly or disabled.
And Tip #7: As long as you avoid rush hour, you’ll be fine.
If only I’d remembered Tip #1 about purchasing the transit cards at the airport, we would have been great. Alas, I did not, and I couldn’t remember the address of the spot within a block of our hotel where we could buy them either. We hiked a couple of long blocks down 42nd Street to Grand Central Station to pick up our tickets.
That wasn’t really a problem. Actually, it was a nice intro to the city. We entered through the Market doors on Lexington and Mom and Gladys were wowed by the variety of foods available there. “This is a train station?” they asked as they vowed to return for fresh fruit and bakery items. They were impressed by the structure too. Who wouldn’t be? That building is gorgeous! It’s also a little confusing. We wandered for a bit before we spotted a Hudson News Stand where we bought our tickets, then headed out to catch a bus on 42nd Street …
… at 5:15 PM. Oops. We boarded the bus and it was packed. A young woman quickly stood up to offer Gladys her seat, but the girl sitting next to her was too engrossed in her iPad to notice us right away. That left Mom hanging from the rail. The girl did look up at the next stop and offer her seat to Mom – but Mom was feeling spunky and refused the seat. By the time the girl got off at the next stop she would have been glad to take it, but an older and weaker looking woman got on there so Mom hung on all the way to 8th Avenue. Lesson learned: Take a seat if it’s offered.
This was our worst bus experience. From here on in, we avoided busier times and Mom and Gladys only had to stand for less than one stop during the entire rest of the week. I didn’t even have to give anyone the evil eye. New Yorkers are not the cold, heartless, self centered beings that their image sometimes portrays. They were kind and respectful to the elderly, the disabled and to families with young children too.
Tip #8: Try John’s Pizza on 44th.
Tip #9: In certain situations, the HOHO buses can be a good idea.
We only had to walk a couple of short blocks to get to John’s from the bus stop. I dropped Mom, Gladys and my friend off there to get a table while I walked up the street to buy our bus tour tickets. Here’s something that wasn’t a tip but should have been: “New Yorkers don’t look up.” I think I read this either in Aduchamp’s Rules of the Sidewalk or on a discussion of HOHO buses but I didn’t understand its importance at the time. I learned it pretty quick though. I was walking back to John’s when something caught my eye. I looked up. And missed the spot where a grate had pushed the concrete of the sidewalk up at an awkward angle. I fell. Splat. Everyone around me stopped. A couple people shouted, “Is she okay?!” A very nice gentleman reached down to help me up and told me, “You’re the second person I’ve seen almost do that.” My response? “I wish I really was the second person to _almost_ do it, instead of the first to really do it.”
Nothing was hurt too much (besides my pride –which took a huge blow). I dusted myself off and continued on my way.
By the time I got back to John’s, Mom and crew were already seated and enjoying cold sodas. Our pizza came soon after. It was good! Really good. Not the best I’ve ever eaten (I’m looking at you Monical’s in Danville, IL, Pizza King throughout Indiana and Pitch in Omaha.) but really very good. It’s cavernous in John’s and they do a terrific job of feeding the masses, of which there are, well, masses. It was cheap too. Our group’s only minor complaint was the volume. Wow, is it loud in there!
Fueled by sausage pizza and Diet Coke, we headed off again. Here, I’ll add a tip of my own: If you plan on walking around, use the ladies room before leaving the restaurant. We found this out when Gladys’ water pill kicked in less than a block later and we had to find a restroom, pronto. Luckily, the giant Toys R Us store with its indoor ferris wheel loomed ahead. That place may be nirvana for tiny tots but the sensory overload kind of made my eyelid twitch. I am grateful for its public bathroom though.
From there it was just a couple more blocks to the HOHO. A lot of folks on here seem to hate those things but, for two ladies in their 70s who had already spent a long day traveling, it was an excellent activity. Our tour guide was pleasant and knowledgeable. The weather was lovely, with a nice breeze blowing on top. We got a good overview of the city with landmarks that helped orient us throughout the week. And the ladies were able to both sit and be entertained for an hour and a half. At $44 each, I wouldn’t say it was a bargain but you can save five bucks if you order your tickets in advance.
After the tour bus, we started walking again. That may have been a mistake as it was longer than we’d thought and the ladies were tired, especially after we made a stop for hair spray at the frenetic Walgreens in Times Square. They were flat out exhausted by the time we waited 40 minutes for a bus that was supposed to arrive every 15. We did have a nice conversation with a lady from Missouri that helped to pass the time before we gave up and hailed a taxi.
Back at the hotel, Mom went in search of a soda machine. There was none so we asked the door man where we might find a can of Diet Pepsi. He advised us that there was an all night deli “just around the corner”. I’m adding another of my own tips here: If you ask a New Yorker how far something is, double the distance. They do not judge space in the same way Midwesterners do. “Just around the corner” turned out to be around the corner, down two blocks and across the street. If I’d known that I would have shlepped off for the soda on my own instead of walking the ladies over there. Once at the deli though, Mom picked up enough Diet Pepsi to see her through a few days. She and Gladys got bananas and a cookie too, making the trek worthwhile.
Finally, we tucked the golden girls into their hotel room after everyone agreed – It had been a near perfect first night in the city.
Everything I Need to Know (re Taking Mama to Manhattan) I Learned on Fodors
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First-time to NYC Trip Report as promised!
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Great report - I feel like I was right there with you all! You must be a writer?
And falling down - I have fallen UP the stairs coming out of a subway station and there is no stupider feeling in the world - glad you weren't hurt!
AND I can't want for the next installment!
I'm enjoying your report. That's so nice that you were able to take your mother and her friend to NYC.
Great so far! Looking forward to reading the rest!
I have been waiting for this report! So glad that even your first day reports that you can ride a city bus in NYC and actually get someplace. Waiting for more!
Heartily agree w/other posters...your report is so good
folks who have trepidations about visiting our city should
read this!
Thanks all!
mztery - Actually, I am a writer. My first novel came out a couple of years ago and if I can get you to cross your fingers, I might get a second novel published. It's with my agent now. Also, I don't know why more folks don't fall in New York. There's so much competing for your attention all the time, it's hard to concentrate on where you're going. And, be careful what you wish for re next installments. I have a feeling this trip report is going to be verrry loooong.
ellenem - That we could ride a bus in the city and actually get somewhere should totally be credited to you. I owe you a thousand thanks for your patient instruction!
DAY TWO, Part One
Tip #10 Check out small, neighborhood restaurants. They often serve great food and are a good value.
Tip #11 John’s café is a good, affordable breakfast spot.
As tired as they were the night before, those old ladies sure did get up early the next morning. Mom was calling our room by 8 AM, ready to start the first full day of our trip. My friend opted to sleep in so I met the ladies in the lobby and we strolled two short blocks to John’s Café.
There we lucked into the last open table and sat down to a meal including eggs, potatoes, breakfast meat, (Mom and I had sausage. Gladys tried the ham.) toast and coffee for around $7 each. We liked everything but the ham, which appeared to be two slices of deli meat, warmed up. We weren’t sure if that was a New York thing (?) so we avoided ham the rest of the week.
On the walk back we spotted a burger joint, a donut shop, a Mexican restaurant and an Irish pub. That’s equal to the total number of restaurants in Mom and Gladys’ little town – unless you count the American Legion and its monthly steak fry, lol.
After breakfast we picked up my friend and caught the M15 Select bus.
Tip #12: The Select Bus runs in its own designated lane (most of the time) and makes fewer stops so you get to your destination quicker. You can tell it from the local by the blue lights that flash on the front.
Tip #13: Just be sure to swipe your Metro Card in the machine outside by the bus stop BEFORE trying to board the bus.
We rode the Select all the way to the South Ferry Terminal. There we joined the hoards who had all been let in on Tip #14: The Staten Island Ferry is the best bargain in New York.
It’s FREE. You may have to stand in line with a few hundred other bargain hunters for up to thirty minutes but its worth it for the view of the Statue of Liberty. Especially if you follow Tip #15: Grab seats on the right side of the boat.
You can even buy beer and snacks on board but my friend offers Tip#16: The beers are large so be sure you really want one and – the hot dogs are not as good as they used to be.
We underestimated the time it would take for us to get to the ferry, board it, ride, disembark, re-embark, ride, get off and catch our bus to our next stop. We were a group of slow movers so your mileage may vary but from catching the bus in midtown through the return ferry trip took us 2 hours and 45 minutes.
That put us behind schedule for lunch and the walking tour we’d booked for the afternoon. When we got off the bus at the wrong stop and promptly turned in the wrong direction, that made us even later but it does bring me to the next two tips.
Tip #16: Almost everywhere in the city is safe these days, within reason.
Our wrong turn took us down the street that houses the New York headquarters for the Hell’s Angels. My friend recalled the time, years ago, when her ex-husband was involved with a media project for the group. This meant visiting said headquarters. At the time, doing so meant meeting a biker at a designated location, then being escorted onto the street and back off of it when the meeting finished. Times have certainly changed – or maybe the Hell’s Angels have? Anyway, four older ladies strolled down this street a couple of weeks ago without fear – though I’m not sure we would have felt as confident at night.
Tip #16: New Yorkers are usually happy to give directions.
Thank God for this one because -- we were lost. Once you get south of the grid streets, things get a little more confusing and harder to navigate. Luckily, a very sweet young woman saw us standing around staring up at street signs and generally looking clueless. She asked if she could help then whipped out her smart phone, punched in our destination and sent us off in the right direction.
It was still a few blocks away though, and we’d already missed the time in our schedule allotted for lunch, and the day was warm, and Mom and Gladys were fading fast. By the time we made it to the meet up point for our tour it was clear that heading out on a two hour long walk would be akin to sending the ladies on a death march.
Good thing you guys had armed me with Tip #17: Don’t be a slave to your itinerary.
I really (really, really) wanted to go on the LES food tour but it wasn’t worth risking Mom and Gladys’ health so we stopped at the tour spot, told our guide we were sorry but we’d have to pass (She was very understanding.) then slowly made our way to
Tip # 18: Don’t miss Katz’ Deli.
I would have really liked to try
Tip #19 too: Order at the counter and make sure the guy sees you put a dollar in the tip jar – he’ll give you more meat.
But even after taking a seat and watching the process for a few minutes, Mom and Gladys were too intimidated by the throngs calling out their orders, so we found a table in the Waiter Service Only section by the wall, and it was still great.
Tip #20: The sandwiches at Katz’s are HUGE. Split one.
Ohmigosh, I don’t know what we would have done with the MORE MEAT promised by giving the tip at the counter. The two sandwiches (Reubens, not pastrami, sorry) we split between the four of us could have fed at least four more people. Somehow we managed to devour every delicious bite though, plus share a knish and fries. We washed it all down with cold beers (my friend and me) and sodas (the ladies). MmmmMmmmMmmmMmmm.
Tip #21: Look at the lighted display above the front window of your bus to make sure it is headed in the right direction.
We knew this. Still, when we spotted a stop for the M15 close by, and a bus pulled up to it moments later, we must have all been in some kind of corned beef coma. We boarded a bus that was traveling the wrong way. Eh. We didn’t care. We digested as we rode back down to the South Ferry Terminal again, then had to get off and walk around a small semi-circle of sidewalk to get back on a bus heading uptown. The ride back to the hotel was a mostly pleasant one although we were getting dangerously close to rush hour and the bus filled up fast.
Tip #22: If you stay in Manhattan, you can go back to your room for a rest in the afternoon.
This is exactly what we did. And it was lovely.
Yay! Can't wait to read more
"but Mom was feeling spunky" LOL I think all three of you are pretty spunky!
So glad you liked the HOHO. You perfectly described why it can be such a great way to get an overview of a city, a bit of a rest for tired legs AND some entertainment if you are lucky!
I agree with ellenem - kudos for navigating the bus on Day 1. And I also agree with you - ellenem's kind patience is one of the best things about Fodors.
Okay...ready for Day 2....
Fantastic read!
Wonderful trip report edeevee! Thanks so much for sharing.
Great trip report, filing bits away for a trip next summer.
Our wrong turn took us down the street that houses the New York headquarters for the Hell’s Angels
______
It is the safest block in the neighborhood. Just don't knock over one of their bikes.
Fantastic report - more, please!
Love your report. I notice your first stop was to buy hair spray.... is that because it's not allowed in carry ons? (I haven't flown in awhile.)
edeevee..I love your report and enthusiam. Your format using the tips you used is terrific. Now you understand why so many said the Hilton's location would be much better than Times Square. You are all real troopers.. Eager for next installment! Thanks.
Great report! Looking forward to the rest of it.
edeevee, I'm enjoying your trip report very much! And thank you for pointing that New Yorkers are generally much kinder than they are given credit for.
I am heading to NYC in November so I am taking your travel tips to heart. I will certainly enjoy reading your future installments. I'm going with my daughter, DIL and 12 year old granddaughter so since i will be the elder one on this trip I better start practicing my "spunky attitude" right now. Your mom and Gladys sound like real hoots. What a nice trip.
Don't y'all know that some people shouldn't be encouraged? Keep this up and, before you know it, I'll have a 90 page missive posted. I do appreciate the kind words.
starrs, I am so glad I listened to you (and others) about the HOHO. Mom and G loved it and surprisingly, I enjoyed it quite a bit too.
Aduchamp, "Just don't knock over one of their bikes." Ha! I nearly snorted my coffee on that one. Too funny!
Gwendolynn, I don't know if the ladies forgot their hairspray or figured they wouldn't be able to carry it on the plane. I just know it was an extreme priority to find some, lol.
HappyTvlr, You are SO right about Times Square v the Hilton. It was so nice to come "home" to our quiet little neighborhood each day.
321go, No, thank YOU (NYers) for being such wholly decent people.
barbrn, I'm sure you'll have a wonderful time, especially if you listen to the wise folks on here when planning your trip.
Day TWO. Part Two.
After our nap, revitalized but still stuffed from our sandwiches, we skipped dinner, changed clothes and caught a taxi to the Theatre District.
Tip #23: Use Broadwaybox.com to purchase tickets in advance to shows that you definitely want to see.
A few months ago, when I asked Mom which Broadway show she really wanted to see, she picked Sister Act. If we’d paid full price, our terrific seats in Row D of the mezzanine would have cost us $121.50 each, before tax and service charge. By using Broadwaybox we shaved that price to $395 for all four tickets, tax and fees included. Sweet!
The Broadway Theatre is beautiful with its grand crystal chandeliers, ornate carvings and plush (and roomy!) velvet seats. Of the four of us, only my friend had seen a broadway show actually on broadway. The rest of us had always been more than pleased with the touring groups we’d seen in places like Chicago and Las Vegas but, the truth is, the shows in New York are better. From the lighting to the sound to the sets and especially the talent – it was all taken up a notch or two or twenty. Amazing!
I highly recommend Sister Act. The show was funny and clever. The songs were toe tappers. The choreography was excellent. The sets and costuming really added to the experience and the story wasn’t trite at all, even though I expected it might be. The actors were exceptional, especially the lead.
The show was so energizing that, even after a long day, with a very early morning ahead of us, Mom and Gladys were still ready to do more when it ended.
That’s when we attempted Tip #24: Your group might like Ellen’s Stardust Diner, but go for the entertainment, not the food.
Unfortunately, they had a private party that night but that was okay because, by the time we walked down there (just a block or two) Mom and Gladys were showing signs of running out of steam. Besides, we were STILL full from our lunch at Katz’s!
It took about ten minutes to wrangle the taxi that took us back to our hotel, where we agreed that the day had been magical, then turned in for the night.
DAY THREE. Part One.
Morning came super early. We were all dragging a little so we settled on a quick bite at Dunkin Donuts, just up the street. It was fast and cheap. The food was fine and the coffee was wonderful.
This was the day we were set to go to Good Morning America’s free American Idol Top 11 concert in Central Park. I was sure it was going to be a disaster but Mom had her heart set on attending, so off we went.
Tip #25: Be tenacious in your info gathering and planning. It will pay off in the end.
Boy, did it! After asking on here, then trying to get answers from Good Morning America, (and failing) on a whim I called the section of the New York Parks Department that was in charge of the Summerstage area. The gentleman who answered the phone assured me that, even though it wasn’t a city-sponsored event, there would definitely be handicapped seating available. Then he told me exactly what I needed to do to access it.
I still wasn’t feeling too hopeful but that was a mistake. It was easier than I thought to catch a taxi at 6AM. Once we got to the park it was a short walk to the first tent, where the Parks guy had told me to check in. The attendants asked if we were on the VIP list. We said ‘no’ but that we had a couple of people in our group with mobility issues and … open sesame!
We were given wrist bands and personally led to an area directly at the side of the stage. Seats were provided for all of us, even though my friend and I said we didn’t need special treatment.
Among our fellow VIPs was the aunt of the executive producer. She was a kindred spirit to my mom -- another huge American Idol fan. The two of them had their heads together like long lost friends and it was all "Scotty!" this and "Pia!" that. It was great that Mom got to share the event with someone who understood her passion for the show.
The concert was fun to watch even though I had no idea who Scotty and Pia (and the rest of the 11) were and they really only performed about four songs. It was still neat to watch them practice and to see how much work goes into putting on this kind of show.
They did a couple of news spots from over on our platform so Mom and Gladys got to be up close and personal with the GMA staff and talent. One of the producers took special notice of Mom and good naturedly teased her all morning, warning her that he had his eye on her and didn’t want another "flashing incident". Mom blushed like a school girl but he was tremendously nice to us and even helped Mom meet George Stephanopolus and have her picture taken with him!
Even better than that though, we met Kaitlyn Clutter and her family. She might not be a household name to you, but she should be. Kaitlyn is a 5th grade girl who was born with spina bifida and has spent a lot of her life in hospitals. When she wasn’t in the hospital she’d appeared on Sesame Street and Nickelodeon, met President Obama (and Justin Bieber) and been an ambassador for the Children’s Miracle Network. What an amazing girl with an incredible spirit!
By the end of the show Mom was glowing. It had been everything she'd hoped for -- and more!
This is fun - enjoying your adventure very much!
This is wonderful. Great reading while waiting for the hurricane. What a wonderful trip you all had. The HOHO buses are closed today and tomorrow.
Must finish my Fringe reviews and get on to better future stuff.
thestarryeye.typepad.com/explorenyc
This is wonderful!
I'm a single Mom and I travel with my three boys that are 7, 10 and 12. They would love to see New York and take in a Yankees game... and I have been hesitant to take them on my own.
Your report makes it sound possible!
Ok this latest report brought tears to my eyes. We focus so much here on things that could go wrong - which is VERY important - but to hear HOW right things went for the event you were the most worried about - how awesome!
\
And your report made me wish my mom was still around so we could go somewhere together.
So glad to hear that the concert went so smoothly - that is awesome!
How cool is this trip report? It makes me wish my mom had let me take her to New York 10+ years ago. She's never been and although she's still around, now 85, she would certainly not agree to it. Between her lifelong interest in classical music (she's played piano since childhood and still does) and the fact that her own mother came through Ellis Island from Russia in 1904, I think she would have loved seeing New York. Oh well. Very much looking forward to hearing more about your travels!
If she's mobile and still around musicfan, think about the programs at RoadScholar.org (the organization formerly known as ElderHostel) - you could accompany her.
I led 2 programs in June and still haven't written posts for my blog. They were really fun!
I was looking forward to this report, and you didn't let me down! So glad you enjoyed yourselves!
Loving this report.
Thanks for reading!
SueNYC, As much as I enjoyed my turn on the HOHO, I'm glad they are grounded today. I'm worried sick about you guys.
lynni, Wouldn't they rather see a Cubs game? jk. You'll have a wonderful time with your boys. Be sure to ask on here before you go. Taking kids to the city is a little different than having a couple of seniors in tow. Definitely doable though.
mztery, Your response brought tears to _my_ eyes. Would you like to borrow Mama? I'm sure she'd love to go anywhere you'd want to take her.
musicfan, Have you asked your mom? I think if you kept your trip short and planned it very carefully, the two of you could have a lovely time.
To those of you in the path of Irene, My thoughts and prayers are with you today. Please stay safe.
After the American Idol show we took a slow walk through Central Park, then caught a bus a few blocks downtown to try out Ellen’s Stardust Diner.
Okay, so it was garishly decorated in a diner motif, the seats were a little worn out, the food wasn’t especially good or even especially hot, and the air conditioning was set to Artic Blast. Still, we had fun.
All of the waiters there are “resting” actors hoping for their chance on Broadway. They take turns belting out show tunes while serving sandwiches. When they asked if it was anyone’s birthday, we lied and said it was Mom’s (it was only a few days away) and they sang to her.
If you’re not looking for a grand gastronomical feast and are more interested in a place to sit down and a preview of a possible future Broadway star – Ellen’s is a good stop.
Tip #26 Whatever you need, you can find it in the city.
When I first read this, I was thinking about things like Gladys’ hair spray. I didn’t realize it extended to ... Everything.
Mom wanted to take a picture at Ellen’s but her camera was dead. She hadn’t thought to pack the charger because she figured it would last the week. Uh, apparently not if you take 243 pictures in 3 days. There was a camera shop right across the street though. We’d picked up the new charger and stepped outside when Mom got a semi-distressing phone call of a financial nature.
We decided it was time to go back to the hotel so Mom could charge her camera and inquire about her problem. We were on the bus when she spotted a Bank of America. We got off at the next stop and backtracked to the bank. Mom went in to take care of business and Gladys went in to take care of business too – her water pill had kicked in again. Ten minutes later, both problems were solved. Mom’s turned out to be just a glitch. Whew.
Buoyed by our conquests, we marched across the street to Grand Central Station. We gawked a little more at the main concourse and its beautiful ceiling. I told the ladies the story I’d read (On here? Probably.) about the celestial bodies painted there. In case you don’t already know – they’re painted backward. There are a couple of theories about whether this was intentional or not but the one I like best has the Vanderbilts explaining it as God’s view of the skies.
We visited the Grand Central Market to pick up treats in lieu of lunching. My friend chose a sesame bagel. I picked a heavenly slice of strawberry cheesecake. Mom and Gladys bought more bananas, an apple, and cookies the size of their heads.
Tip # 27 Riding the city buses can be a cheap form of entertainment.
My friend wandered off to get her nails done. Gladys took a nap. But Mom and I were restless. We decided to hop on a bus and just enjoy the ride. Mom picked the 42nd Street Crosstown for a closer look. It really is a great route to take on a lazy afternoon. It passes Grand Central, the Library, Bryant Park, Times Square and ends up at the Intrepid Dock on the other side of town before turning around, retracing the route and dropping us off in front of our hotel.
Tip #28 Splurge. You only live once.
Tip #29 Sign up for Village Vines. Paying them a $10 reservation booking fee gets you 30% off your meal at tons of upscale restaurants – making splurging a whole lot less painful.
When I first started planning this trip we were going to spend 2 nights and 3 days in Manhattan with a budget of $2500 for the whole trip. Several of you said that was possible but maybe not if I was hoping to indulge my mama in some of the pricier items on her bucket list – like dinner at the 21 Club. You urged me to do it anyway, and I’m so glad you did.
I did the suggested free sign up through Village Vines (now www.savored.com) and when the date got closer, I booked our reservation through them. It was simple and I have nothing but praise for the people at Savored.
When my friend wandered off to find a nail salon, she discovered an Indian restaurant instead. Then she accidentally wandered into several martinis. She was still feeling the effects when it was time to go to dinner so she decided to veg out in the hotel room while we had our special meal.
We took a taxi to the restaurant and since traffic was surprisingly light, we arrived a half hour early. This wasn’t a problem though and we were seated right away at a table near the corner in the bar room. I weighed the options of ‘pretending like we belonged there’ versus ‘admitting that we were rubes indulging in a special treat’ and went with option 2. I’m glad we did that.
Our waiter was exceedingly cordial. When he asked us where we were from, he told a personal story about meeting a French girl and convincing her that champagne came from the town of Champaign, near where Mom and Gladys live in Illinois. He also gave us a quick lesson on the history of the restaurant and the toys that hang above your heads while you eat.
Next came the bread basket with its interesting varieties of toasts and muffins. There was a moment when I thought the night might be ruined. Mom absent mindedly picked up her regular knife to butter her bread. I don’t think anyone noticed – I sure didn’t – but when she realized what she had done, her face fell. She was so embarrassed. I tried reminding her that, no matter how important or rich our fellow diners might have been, there was no one in the place who was better than her. It seemed to work. She brightened up, just in time for our waiter to bring the appetizer.
We shared the heirloom tomato and it was fantastic – one juicy, perfectly ripe tomato stuffed with blue cheese, pancetta bacon and some kind of greens. After the tomato, our entrees arrived. Gladys ordered the pan seared salmon. I had the organic chicken and Mom ordered the famous 21 burger. Oh. My. Gosh. It was all so good.
I’ve eaten at a few fancy restaurants but I’m not sure the service anywhere else measured up to what we received that night. The entire meal was perfectly orchestrated so that you felt attended to without being hovered over. It. Was. Excellent.
Mom and Gladys declined dessert, but not because they didn’t want a little sweet to end the meal. They both had a hankering for ice cream and their Midwest sensibilities just would not let them pay $10.50 for a scoop of it – no matter how good it might be.
When it was time to settle up, there was a copy of the receipt before the Village Vines discount and a copy of it after it had been applied. On the post discount receipt, the Tip area had been lined out. This confused me and I had to ask how to add one. The waiter explained that the Village Vines program requires them to add in the tip (on the full price) before the bill is presented. I looked at both bills again and was astonished at how affordable the meal was. Our full price bill (before tax and gratuity) came to just $175 for the three of us. After the discount? Just $135!! Including tax and tip!!
We’d planned to go to Top of the Rock after dinner but we had a quandary. Rockefeller Center is just a couple of blocks away from the restaurant – but according to the ladies, a couple of blocks in heels = five or six in tennis shoes. We considered taking a cab but then it didn’t seem far enough. We decided to try to work in TOTR some other time and hailed a taxi.
On the way back to the hotel Mom and Gladys hatched a plan to get their ice cream fix. They’d noticed a Baskin Robbins about a block from the hotel. We had the cabbie drop us off there and Mom and G enjoyed their cheap ice cream cones at outside tables while we chatted with a lady walking two friendly pups and eavesdropped on a discussion about the state of US Israeli relations. Another wonderful night in the city!
Perfection.
This report is absolute perfection - and it sounds like the trip was as well.
Loved tip #27 and with your 7 day cards you could get on and off at leisure.
FYI - still have power on East 90th Street and the trees in front of my windows are standing - wind direction seems to be ok so far. Must write those last fringe reviews.
Sue, Glad to hear you weathered the storm and New York escaped the worst of it.
starrs, Thank you again for your encouragement and if this trip was perfect it's because of you and all the others who lent their insight while I was planning it!
Saturday was another early day for us. Way back in January I’d asked the ladies what they wanted to do/see on the trip. Mom had a long list. Gladys added only one thing: She wanted to be in the audience for the CBS Early Show.
ollar and said no even when I offered to pay.
I really wanted to accommodate this, since it was her only request, but the show went through a lot of changes in the months that we were planning our vacation. Interactions with a live audience seemed to drop off dramatically. I’d contacted CBS both through email and by phone to sign up for audience passes and the free studio tour they advertised but I hadn’t heard any response. We’d gone ahead and slotted this activity for Monday morning anyway and were hoping for the best.
Then I got Tip #30: The best day to visit the Early Show is on a Saturday when there seems to be more going on.
We altered our schedule and I am so glad we did. We arrived at the plaza outside the CBS studio around 7AM to find a couple hundred little girls also waiting for the show to start.
Lucky for us, American Girl Dolls had a promo feature scheduled for that day. Even luckier, Harry Connick Jr. had partnered with American Girl Dolls to cross promote the release of two new dolls with fundraising for a new music program he’s supporting. His teenaged daughter had written a song for the event and they were performing it on the Early Show that morning!
Although we didn’t get to see Mr. Connick and his daughter perform (they did that inside the studio) we did get a good look at his incredibly handsome face when he came out to sign autographs for the little girls in attendance. The brush with fame was really just a bonus though. We would have been happy eating our bialys (from a café nearby- yum) and watching all the dolls, living and otherwise, on the plaza. Can you say adorable?
Speaking of adorable, just as we were getting ready to leave the plaza, we heard trumpeting nearby and wandered to the other side of the plaza just in time to watch the men dressed like tin soldiers announce the daily opening of FAO Schwartz. Cute.
Tip #31 Take a walk down 5th Avenue for some excellent window shopping.
Our stroll took us past Tiffany’s (it wasn’t open yet) to Trump Tower. Unbeknownst to me, Mama is not just a fan of American Idol, she also loves The Donald’s Apprentice show. So much so, that we had to stop and take pictures. Mom’s is on her facebook page right now with the caption “I was just fired at Trump Tower.”
We stopped inside for a Coke in the cafeteria area before taking a series of escalators as high as we could go. Somewhere around the 6th floor they have guards posted at the elevators to keep the riff raff from proceeding higher – but they also have a couple of tiny public gardens up there. The “garden” part of it wasn’t as impressive as we all hoped but the view down 5th Ave was great.
After Trump’s we backtracked to see if Tiffany’s was open yet. It was. My friend had brought along an heirloom ring that had split on the band and she wanted to see if they would fix it there. The ring is gorgeous, but it’s not from Tiffany’s so they declined to repair it – but they did clean it for her for free. We wandered the floors while this took place and a sweet salesgirl on the 2nd floor showed Mom a 5 carat diamond ring. Stunning! It was out of her budget though, and besides, the ring was in platinum and Mom prefers yellow gold, lol.
BTW, if you use the restroom at Tiffany’s it feels like you are piddling in a bank vault. Just an fyi.
Our need for a spot of luxury sated, we headed back to the plaza to decide what to do next. It was nearing lunch time and the area was getting busy but we managed to snag a table where we listed to a musical group that featured pan pipes. Nice.
We debated whether to take a carriage ride in the park but Mom and Gladys decided against it. Once again, their Midwest, um, frugality (that’s a nice word, right?) kicked in. When they learned how much it cost, they practically pulled out calculators to determine the ratio of ride:minute
We’d fallen into the habit of being busy in the morning, then retreating to the hotel for a rest before going out again in the evening. I wish I could work this into my real life schedule. Maybe when I retire (sigh). This day we decided to try the Irish Pub across the street from our hotel for lunch before our siesta.
McFaddens is right on the corner of 42nd Street and 2nd Avenue. It appears to be a hopping place at night but there was no problem getting a table for a weekend lunch. It was good too. We had burgers and French dip sandwiches, onion rings and sweet potato fries. The burger was particularly yummy and the beer was nice and cold. Siesta time.
Tip #32: Reserve a table ahead of time unless you like to stand and wait.
Tip #33: You can research restaurants, check reviews and menus, and make reservations on OpenTable.
Tip # 34: There was some dissention on this but … it is possible to get a decent meal in the Theatre District.
Our rest was a short one since we had dinner reservations at 6:30. Picking a place for dinner this night was one of the hardest decisions of our trip. I’d gone back and forth between several options – and several neighborhoods too. In the end, I let Tip #35 influence the choice: Check the weather forecast before you leave home.
The day before we took off on our adventure, I checked the weather one last time. That’s how I knew there was a chance of rain for the weekend. I also knew we all liked Italian. With these two facts guiding me, I clicked on Open Table and started looking. I found Tony’s di Napoli -right across the street from our theatre- and made a reservation.
There was a line going out the door when we arrived but we bypassed all of them and were seated immediately. The atmosphere felt more authentic than some other huge Italian restaurants I’ve been to. The service was quick and pleasant. Tony’s offers a family style menu. They say that an entrée should serve 2-3 but our group of 4 could have been satisfied with just one. The portions are LARGE.
We passed on ordering an appetizer, hoping to leave room for dessert, and ordered our main dishes. We all wanted something with a red sauce and chose Ravioli Bolognese. Mom was also hoping for something lighter, so I suggested the Chicken Piccatta. The bread that came before the entrees was mmm-mmm good and the ravioli was heaven. The piccatta? Meh. Everywhere else I’d ever eaten it, it had been accompanied by angel hair pasta. I love the way the fine noodles soak up the buttery, garlicky, lemony sauce. At Tony’s though, you just get the chicken. Oh, well. We were still too full at the end of the meal to order dessert.
It looked good though. The family seated next to us included a Birthday Girl who was turning 12. We all sang to her as the waitress brought her tiramisu with a sparkler poking up out of it. The girl sparkled almost as much with her glitter nail polish, Future Mrs. Justin Bieber shirt, and big smile.
Outside, it had started sprinkling so we were glad that we only had to dash across the street to the theatre instead of finding a taxi.
I am a fan of glamorous old theaters like The Broadway, where we’d seen Sister Act a couple of nights before. To me, all that extraneous decoration feels luxurious and sets the tone for a special evening before the curtain ever rises. The Stephen Sondheim Theatre is not that kind of place. Recently renovated, it has a much more utilitarian feel to it. The focus is on the show, not the showy. And that’s okay too – if only the seats weren’t packed in quite so tight. And they didn’t employee The Theater Cop.
I don’t know what got into Mama that night. On Thursday, at the Broadway, she’d whipped out her camera and taken a picture of the stage as soon as her bottom hit the seat. An usher came along to politely inform her that photos were not allowed. As soon as we’d entered the Sondheim we’d been reminded of this again, so it’s not like she didn’t know.
I guess the huge curtain with its light-show image of the show’s title was too much temptation for her. I was on my cellphone, checking in at home before the show started when I saw the flash. Then I heard a gasp behind us.
In a split second, The Theater Cop was on us. “Who took that picture?” she demanded. Mom stared straight ahead. “I know it came from row HH,” Theater Cop said, and gave me a soul curdling stare. “I was on the phone,” I pleaded, but I could tell she didn’t believe me. She kept an eye on me all night, like I was about to throw Jujubes on the crowd below or something. The funniest thing was, Mom had her finger over the lens when she’d snapped the photo. It didn’t even turn out.
Later, near the end of Intermission, a group of girls in the row beneath us were texting. The lights hadn’t dimmed yet but Theater Cop felt the need to nip this bad behavior in the bud. “Girls!” she shouted. “Girls, girls, GIRLS!” Then she took her flashlight and waved it at them menacingly until they stowed the devices. She reminded me of my 5th Grade teacher, Mrs. Zielinski, the one who’d kept me inside for five recesses in a row until I could form my cursive Qs to her satisfaction.
Even she couldn’t ruin the show though. Back when I’d thought we might get a chance to see just one play, Anything Goes was the one I’d picked. And I wasn’t disappointed. It’s a classic, with songs we already knew by heart. And Sutton Foster can really belt ‘em out – even after performing a huge tap dance number. Wow, she was amazing.
Joel Grey was no slouch either. He was super funny in his role as Moonface, Public Enemy Number 13. I’d first heard of Mr. Grey when I was still a young girl so I was amazed that he could still keep up with the much younger cast. The sets. The costumes. It’s all quintesential Broadway, and marvelously done.
The real rain was still holding off when the show ended but you could feel that a downpour was imminent. We took a chance on a flat rate taxi – although it felt a little sketchy. He charged us about five bucks more than we would have paid in a regular cab but it was worth it to get “home” dry.
Here’s a tip from me, just for those who might want to stay at the Hilton Manhattan East: Before it was a Hilton it was the Tudor Hotel. There’s still a lighted sign above the place that calls it that. Throughout the week, most of our taxi drivers stared at us blankly when we gave the correct name for the place. It was only after we added, the old Tudor Hotel, that they recognized it.
We had to be careful not to give Gladys a turn in the front seat when we headed back at night though. She couldn’t get the name right and kept referring to the hotel as The Hooter or The Cooter. God only knows where we would have ended up if she gave the directions, lol.
Mom and Gladys headed for their room and my friend and I decided to check out the bar. By the time we climbed in bed, the skies had let loose. I’d never witnessed a thunderstorm form the 17th floor before. What a magnificent end to another incredible day.
Glad to read the next episode and the hear how all parties continue to enjoy themselves.
(By the way, this NYer has never seen Chicken Piccata served with pasta. Perhaps some old-fashioned red-sauce restaurants would have a side of spaghetti, but not on the same plate with the chicken. The pasta would be listed on the menu.)
<...and kept referring to the hotel as The Hooter or The Cooter.>
Ya got to love Gladys!
Just now reading this report, and I love it along with everyone else! Can't wait for more. I'm going to NYC in October and am on the lookout for ideas - plus it's a GREAT read.
Maybe you could write this up as a screenplay, edeevee!
Glad you had fun.
What another great day! Still loving the report. So glad you found a good restaurant you enjoyed so close to the theatre. I agree with ellenem that I've just been served the chicken (no pasta) in chicken piccata.
So proud of you manuvering taxis and busses like a pro! Love how you worked in what was important to each person on the trip.
Looking forward to more
<<kept referring to the hotel as The Hooter or The Cooter.>>
I'd really like to meet Mom and Gladys; they're cracking me up.
Also, my thanks to those who suggested I still try to pull off a NYC or similar trip with my own mom. I think I probably wanted to take her more than she wanted to go; I don't know who I caught my travel "bug" from, but it wasn't her. She mentioned wanting to see her hometown again so it looks like that will be our trip; my sister and I are planning it for the end of September.
Now, back to New York and Gladys and Mom!
Love your style! Methinks like mother like daughter!
Ahh, musicfan, it was a great idea. The hometown trip will be such a treat for her though.
I took my mom to NYC several times in the 90s - staying with my friend who lived in <gasp> the Times Square area. At times the trips were stressful, but I'm very thankful for the memories. This was before the clean-up of the area. She wasn't a fan of the peep shows
Glad you clarified that the Hilton is the former Tudor in Tudor City complex..now I know where it is!
Thank you guys again for reading and commenting.
ellenem and starrs, thanks also for solving the Piccatta Mystery. It must be a regional thing. I'll tell ya though, the piccatta sauce over angel hair pasta? Divine. You should try it.
musicfan, I don't think we had enough go wrong on our trip to turn it into a screenplay. We need more conflict. Glad to hear you're planning a trip with your mom. I hope you have a special time together.
happytrvlr, You and 99% of the taxi drivers in New York
We’d made plans to sleep in, so, of course, the first phone call came at 8:15. “It’s raining,” Mom said. “Mmmhmm,” I said, half asleep. Did I mention that my friend and I had spent a couple of hours in the hotel bar the previous night? “We don’t have umbrellas,” Mom said. That’s when I trotted out
Tip #35: Don’t bother packing raingear. If the weather turns bad, you can pick up an umbrella anywhere.
Then I assured her that I’d seen some hanging in the luggage store window, right next to the hotel. The next call came at 9:05. “It doesn’t open until 11 today.” What part of sleeping in did she not understand, I wanted to ask her. But she’d raised me to be respectful of my elders, so instead I told her, “If we need to leave before then, we’ll figure something out.”
At 9:20 she reported that the “hotel has umbrellas for rent, but they only have two of them.” I nudged my friend to wake her then because I could see where this was going.
And I was right. At 9:55 Mom and Gladys appeared at our door, with smiles of triumph on their faces and four brand new umbrellas in their hands.
They’d coaxed the doorman into telling them where to look, which was ... the deli around the corner. Then they’d conned him into lending them his personal umbrella (for free). For additional protection they used
–POP QUIZ—
What does every self respecting little old lady carry in the bottom of her handbag? Answer – a rain bonnet, silly.
Their coiffures were still encased in plastic as they stood outside our hotel room door. In fact, they’d been slightly aghast to learn that my friend and I did not have bonnets of our own – and they offered to go back to the deli where they thought they’d spotted some. We declined and met them downstairs a few minutes later.
While on our bus “tour” a couple of days ago, Mom had struck up conversations with several fellow passengers, including one who suggested we try Pershing Square for breakfast. We opened up our new umbrellas. I scowled once or twice at the doorman, then we headed in the direction of the restaurant – which was busy despite the steady rain.
My friend and I had just stowed the umbrellas and plopped into our seats. We were pining mightily for a cup of coffee. We picked up our menus. The ladies picked up their menus. And then, for the second time that morning, I could see into the future. There was no way we were staying there to eat. Not when the first thing on the menu was a $7 bowl of oatmeal.
Tip #36: Familiarize yourself with New York meal prices so you don’t get sticker shock.
They can’t help it. These ladies are not that mean kind of cheap; they’re just penny pinchers by nature. And they DO recognize the value of finer things. Mom’s been known to spend a small fortune on a well made pair of shoes. But not if she can drive 40 miles to pick a pair up at 30% off. Our mornings at John’s, the donut place and the bialy café, where a whole meal came for the price of a bowl of oatmeal, had added fuel to their miserly breakfast instincts. Gladys suggested McDonalds. There’s one just down from the deli, you know.
I countered with Tip # 37: Junior’s has a decent breakfast that’s not too expensive.
They have a location in Grand Central, right across the street too. But, we soon found out, it doesn’t serve breakfast on Sundays. We perused the other offerings in the dining concourse but none offered the sit down, traditional breakfast Mom desired. Gladys mentioned McDonalds again, but I was pretty sure it was too late for that.
My friend spoke up. She’d spotted a little breakfast place on 43rd. A sign in the window had advertised breakfast sandwiches for just $1.99 and she was sure she’d seen a couple of small tables in there. So back out in the rain we went. But they weren’t open on Sundays at all. That’s when someone mentioned McFadden’s.
That had been the plan all along. Our waitress had been sure to mention their brunch special to us when we had lunch the day before. It was $12.50, pricy by Mom and Gladys standards, but it included your choice of a dozen variations on the traditional breakfast theme and a free drink too!
The only downside was – they didn’t start serving until 11:30 -- THUS THE PLAN TO SLEEP IN. But I didn’t remind the ladies of that. Instead, I just asked for the time. According to Mom’s watch, it was now 11:40. Great.
McFadden’s didn’t disappoint. Mom and Gladys had their regular egg/meat/potato/toast combo. My friend had an egg dish with lump crab. I had a ‘build your own’ omelet with peppers, onion and cheese. The ladies and my friend drank mimosas, while I chose the stiffer-looking bloody mary. Yum.
With the rain falling harder outside, a little alcohol, a big breakfast and five or six long blocks of walking already under our belts, it was the perfect set up for our next activity of the day – the nap. Yay.
Two hours later, it was still raining when we climbed into a taxi and headed to the Westside Theatre where we had matinee tickets.
Tip #38: See if you qualify for TDF National membership. If you do, you can save a bundle on shows.
A few months ago I followed this link: www.tdf.org From there, all I had to do was prove that I lived more than 100 miles from NYC and that I fit in one of several qualifying categories. For example, I work for a non-profit. Bingo! I paid my $12 and was in! Every week after that I received an email informing me of available discounted broadway, off broadway, off off broadway, music and dance productions.
These are the good people behind the TKTS booths. They are also somehow involved in the Fringe Festival. Since we only had room for one more show in our schedule and were scraping up against our budget limit, I was really interested in the Fringe offerings – especially after reading SueNYC’s posts about it – and learning I could get tickets for only $9 each.
That was until the email came announcing the availability of a matinee performance of Love, Loss and What I Wore. This show had already been on my radar. My husband had caught a feature about it on TV and saved it for me because he knew it was my “kind of thing”. And he was right.
The show is based on a book by Ilene Beckerman in which she chronicles her life through drawings of outfits she wore at pivotal moments. Once the book came out, it struck a chord with women from all walks of life who sent in their own drawings and stories. The Ephron sisters gathered these all up and turned it into a stage show – at least that’s how I think it went. Anyway, I knew it would be a terrific show to see with your mom and your best friend.
What I didn’t know: Would we get decent seats? Would we even get to sit together? TDF does not promise either of these. They also don’t let you know where your seats are until you show up at the theatre. The show was so perfect for us, and the discount so incredible, that I figured it was worth the risk. Regular priced seats for this show are $79. We got ours for just $26 apiece, and that's WITH tax and service charge included. Oh man, how I loves me a bargain! (Errr, maybe frugality is an inherited condition?)
The Westside is a smallish building that houses two theatres, one upstairs and one down. It is a no nonsense space. You won’t find chandeliers or fancy light-show logos on the curtain. Now that I think of it, I don’t think you’ll even find a curtain. But the seats were comfy and easy to access and I think you would be able to see and hear well from anywhere in the room.
You could see and hear GREAT from our seats – which were in the second row, right, with no one in front of us! This might be too close in a bigger theatre or for a bigger production but Love, Loss and What I Wore is a minimalist show.
Five women, in a rotating cast of actors from television, film and the stage, are seated on the small stage. Other than the garment rack that holds drawings on hangers, there is only one other prop. Seated where we were, and with the stories so intimate, and so deftly told, it almost felt more like sharing an afternoon visit with women who are dear to you, than being members of a paid audience. It was absolutely wonderful.
My Tip: If you go, bring a tissue. You will need it for the sadder bits. Actually, bring two. You might need one for the funny parts too. I know Mama and I laughed until we cried at the story about the blow up bra.
It was time to move on to our next adventure, but right now, it’s time for me to move on to work. More soon.
I was wondering how you all made out in the rain. Glad to hear it didn't damper your day!
Love, love, love!
It's silly how excited I am to find a new installment.
Love the breakfast adventure.
LOVE the nap!
I loved "Love, Loss and What I Wore" too.
Proud of all of you for navigating your part of the city and grabbing a cab to the theatre. You're a NYC pro!
Waiting (not so patiently) for the next part.
Great storytellng, edeevee. I love your trip report, and I just keep thinking, "Aw, what a good daughter". Makes me sad that I never had an opportunity to take my mother on a trip like this.
Yay! Another installment! And I LOL'ed at your comment about the plastic rain bonnets...for as long as I can remember, my mom has never left the house without at least one of those!
I can't believe I only now found this report! Really enjoying reading about your NYC adventures!
Thank you for bringing up the out of town version of TDF. I forget about it because I live here. Everyone....check these things out at www.tdf.org - Like everyone else, I am looking forward to the next installment!
Loving this report. Thanks for sharing!
$12 for TDF membership? Wow! Their website says the fee is $30 now.
Did you have a discount code?
I'm enjoying your report and look forward to the next installment.
@cranachin
Who qualifies for TDF NATIONAL MEMBERSHIP?
To qualify for TDF NATIONAL MEMBERSHIP, you must live 100 miles or more outside of New York City and belong to one of the following groups: full-time students, full-time teachers, union members, retirees, civil service employees, staff members of not-for-profit organizations, performing arts professionals, members of the armed forces or clergy.
Visitors who live over 100 miles from New York City now have access to the same extraordinary selection of New York City theatre, dance and music performances at discount prices ($20 to $36 a ticket) that over 80,000 New Yorkers enjoy—but at a special reduced membership of only $12 a year (regular membership for New Yorkers is $30.00 per year), only a dollar a month!
Waiting for #39
<tap, tap, tap, tap, tap>
mztery - the TDF website is not exactly intuitive.
I read through the text on their membership page and followed their instructions to click on the "JOIN NOW" button. That takes you to the page that says the cost is $30.
There is nothing in the text about a lower cost or separate application for visitors, and I did not notice the link for TDF national membership (under the big "JOIN NOW" box) until I had looked through the site several times.
For those who are interested, the link for visitors is http://www.tdf.org/TDF_SupportPage.aspx?id=76
edeevee - I'll bet you could invent enough "conflict" to create a screenplay. Think of all the things you thought might go wrong that didn't!
@cranachin once again
Don't know where your rudeness comes in. I never said it was intuitive, I was pointing out to you where the info was. Although, all you had to do was go to tdf.org, click on ticket services, see membership and then big as life on the right side is a box for "visitors to NY"
The rain bonnets - LOVE IT!!
@mztery - I was not intending to be rude. Sorry that you took my comments that way.
I was simply attempting to point out that
(1) I went to the TDF home page and then to the Membership page, and I read through the gray/black description under "TDF Membership" (center of the page).
(2) I clicked on the red "click here to visit our F.A.Q. page" link - and there was no mention of a $12 National Membership on the FAQ page.
(3) I followed the instructions (in red) to "Click on the Join Now icon" on the right side - and the page it takes you to does not mention a $12 National Membership.
(4) Because the "Join Now" box is larger and more prominently placed than the "Learn About TDF National Membership (for visitors to NYC)" text - even though the latter is just below the former - I did not notice the latter, especially since the "TDF Membership" narrative said to click on the "Join Now" box.
For what it's worth, I am sure you were trying to be helpful with your first post, but (at least on my computer) it just displays copied text from the "Visitor's Membership" page but no directions on how to get there. I actually went back to the TDF site after reading your post and STILL couldn't find the Visitor's Membership page for several minutes. Maybe I am just dense today.
That's why I posted the direct link. I figured others would appreciate not having to click through 2 other pages (tdf.org, the home page, and http://www.tdf.org/TDF_ServicePage.aspx?id=59, the Membership page) to get there.
Like I said, I was not trying to be rude. Sometimes written material is taken in a way the author did not intend.
You are not dense, Cranachin. I investigated the site a week or so ago and didn't find my way to the visitor info either.
Such a lovely report! You have an entertaining and engaging style of writing.
I can SO connect to the rain bonnet scene.. (and the I assume stiff hair-sprayed coifs our moms wear), and the early morning disruptive phone call! You have made me chuckle repeatedly!
Anyone, any age going to NYC will benefit form this well-planned trip, which I have followed from the inquiry stage!
I am looking forward to the rest!
I love, love, love this story. Please give us the name of your books, you are a wonderful writer and daughter.
If you guys don't stop saying such nice things, I'll never get my trip report done. Already, my head barely fits in the room that houses my computer
gwendolyn, The rain did make us change a couple of plans but we were still able to find enough to do that we fell in bed exhausted every night.
Sue, The TDF deal was amazing (though apparently hard for some people to find). I think you (or was it mztery?) were the one to first mention it to me? Thank you again for that!
Cranachin, Glad you finallly found the link to TDF. SO worth it!
lincasanova, I hope others will find this trip report useful. I had SO MUCH HELP from the posters here that I wanted to try to give back by putting as many tips as possible in one post. I didn't expect it would be this long though -- yikes!
seniormsuedu, Awww. Thanks for your kind words and for asking about my writing. I don't want to misuse this forum (that's been so wonderful to me) so if this is inappropriate, I welcome the moderators to withdraw it. Here goes:
My real life (and author) name is Darcy Vance. I write with a co-author -- who is the real brains behind the partnership. Her name is Charity Tahmaseb. There is only one book (so far). It is a novel for teens called The Geek Girl's Guide to Cheerleading. We have a second novel (Dating on the Dork Side) with our agent right now. She plans to read it this week so -- fingers crossed please?
In addition, between day jobs, family and trip planning, we are hard at work on two more books. One is another fun story, but for a slightly younger audience. The other is a thriller about a group of nerdy teens who get involved in a fair trade/international outsourcing scandal.
Thanks again for asking!
Finally, for those of you who think I've been such a good daughter, look again. There is no martyrship going on here. I had at least as good of a time as Mama did -- and it is all thanks to you!
Neither Mom nor Gladys was born there. They haven’t lived inside its borders for decades either. I was born there, but spent the first ten, and last twenty, years away. My friend was both born and raised there but, until a couple of months ago, she’d spent 30+ years 1000 miles away from it. Yet, when each of us thinks of our home town, a place called Danville, Illinois is the one that we claim. We’re in pretty good company too.
John T. Scopes, of the Scopes monkey trial, went to high school there. Hugh Hefner had his first sexual encounter there. It was once known as the Aerosol Can Capital of the World. Remember that hole in the ozone? Yep. That was us. ((sorry.))
Danville is the birthplace of an astronaut, scientists, journalists and authors, sports stars, war heroes and a plethora of notable entertainers including: Dick and Jerry Van Dyke (My dad went to school with Jerry.), Gene Hackman (His aunt was once my daycare provider.), Donald O’Connor and … Bobby Short.
It’s hard to gauge Mr. Short’s fame outside of Danville. He is an icon there. I imagine most New Yorkers know his name as well. (At least I hope they do.)
According to local lore, young Bobby was already an accomplished entertainer when he struck out on his own at age 12. For many years after that he played piano and sang at clubs throughout the United States and Europe. In the late 60’s he filled a two week substitute slot at the Café Carlyle – where his performance was so lauded that his “gig” was extended for 37 years. He rose to become the epitome of elegance, effortless grace and sophistication.
For all of these reasons, we HAD to go to the Hotel Carlyle. It had been near the top of Mom’s bucket list from the beginning and I heartily agreed. So I paid attention when I read
Tip #39: Go to the Carlyle but not to the café, where the food is good but overpriced. Check out Bemelmans Bar instead.
If not for the Bobby Short connection I doubt I would've ever become aware of the Carlyle. Why would I? The place is so far removed from my Midwestern, middle class life. But now that I’ve been? Go. GO! Go, I tell you!
Go for the lighting, just bright enough to make the gilt ceiling glow. Go for the goofy murals painted by Ludwig Bemelman, the illustrator of the Madeline books. Go for the baby grand piano in the middle of the room and the classic songs that come out of it. Go for the trio of snacks they place at your table (homemade potato chips, nuts and some kind of upscale cheese doodle). Go for the beautiful art deco wallpaper in the ladies room. Go for the Gin Gin Mule.
But if you’re “frugal” like us
Tip #40: Go before the $25 cover charge kicks in (9:30 or when the jazz trio starts).
We headed there straight from the theatre, leaving plenty of time to get our drink on and then skeedaddle before the cover charge. A portrait of Bobby Short greeted us in the small lobby outside the barroom door. Of course, we had to have our own pictures taken in front of it.
Inside the door, the place oozed class, even with a pair of tattered punk rockers perched at the bar. (Not that I’m dissing punk. I’m a fan of the genre from way back.) We were seated at a table and our waiter introduced himself. The ladies let him know about our mission to honor Mr. Short.
He told us he had started working at the Carlyle in the last year that Bobby Short played there, then continued with examples of how great he was as a man, aside from his fame as a performer. According to our waiter, Mr. Short was kind, charitable, unaffected by his station in life and friendly to everyone. We drank it all in.
Speaking of drinks, they ain’t cheap here. One of their signature cocktails will set you back $20, but we knew that going in so there was no sticker shock this time. Mom ordered a rum concoction called The Old Cuban. Gladys ordered something with pear vodka and sparkling wine. My friend and I ordered the Gin Gin Mules with gin, ginger beer and lime juice.
Although it is pricey, you’re definitely not getting shorted on the liquor here. In fact, Mom’s first sip made her eyes cross. By the third sip, she was calling it the Old Crow and was regaling us with stories of bra debacles long past. (Not as odd as you’d think, when you consider that we’d just left a play about clothing.)
On the fourth sip she decided the Old Crow might be a tad too strong, so we asked our waiter if they could dilute it for her. I’m guessing they don’t get that request too often, but they honored it without comment. My drink was strong too but it was so delicious that I had to keep reminding myself that it wasn’t just a limeade and to take my time. I’d still finished before Mom made much of a dent in hers, then sucked the rest of hers down when she started feeling woozy.
The décor, the history, the drinks, it all adds to the experience, but it is the piano bar aspect that takes Bemelmans over the top. Before Mom and Gladys could slip into stories about girdles, the piano player took his seat and the music started.
“Summertime”, “I Get a Kick Out of You”, “The Sunny Side of the Street”. Requests were called out from tucked away corners and groups we didn’t even know we were sharing the room with. Singer/pianist Robert Mosci handled each of them beautifully.
When he stood up to take a break, it was our cue to leave, but not before Mom and Gladys asked if they could take his picture. Not only did he say yes, he graciously invited them to sit on the bench with him, then he followed us outside for a chat while we waited for a taxi.
Ahhhh, what a memory. Maybe it was the booze, but I don’t think so.
Tip #41: It can be tough to get a taxi:
a. for four people
b. at certain times of the day
c. in the rain
d. all of the above
Have a backup plan in mind.
We’d been lucky all week with taxis. And even in front of the Carlyle on a rainy Sunday afternoon, we caught one pretty quickly. We just weren’t sure how long our luck would hold out.
We’d planned to go to Le Relais de Venice for steaks that night but the neighborhood looked a little more residential when we’d passed it and we wondered if we’d find ourselves stranded after our meal. Also, whenever we’d followed Tip #10 (try local restaurants) we’d met with good fortune. So we decided on Calico Jack’s instead and there we met …
… The Worst Waitress in New York City.
The restaurant had proximity going for it. (Next to McFadden’s, across the street from our hotel.) The food was pretty good too – if you like that generic tex mex kind of thing – which we do. And if you like your chips in a half full basket and mostly broken – which we, uh, don’t, not so much anyway. And if you were hoping to have sour cream to accompany your entrée – well, too bad, our waitress thought the kitchen might be out of it. If you’d planned to wash it all down with something other than a carafe of lukewarm water plunked down on your table with iceless glasses – you’d be out of luck there too. Just don’t go expecting to be served the size of appetizer you ordered, or to pay for that size instead of the one large enough to feed a party of twelve – because that’s asking too much. I mean, really, the nerve of some people.
To be fair, there were some good things about the waitress. She was cute. And she was an avid reader. That alone is usually enough to endear me to a person – just not if I am relying on said person to serve my meal. I would have loved to know what she was reading though. It had her so engrossed that whole chapters went by between taking our order and forgetting our drinks, between bringing the broken chips and (read, read, read) then the salsa. It was almost funny. And it gave us plenty of time for conversation.
We talked about the trip mostly. About the amazing things we’d seen and done so far. About the things we still wanted to try to fit in. That’s about the time the waitress ambled by to ask, “You didn’t want any dessert, did you?” It’s also about the time my mom asked, “That M15 bus, where does it go in the other direction?”
“Harlem, maybe?” I said.
“Really?” both Mom and Gladys said at the same time. “Can we go?”
And so, while we waited a chapter or two for New York’s Worst Waitress to bring us our bill, then waited another chapter for her to mosey over and tangle with us about the price of the guacamole, we set our plans for the next day.
Then Mama and Gladys donned their rain bonnets and we opened our umbrellas again and made our way back to the Hooter/Cooter/Tudor/Hilton in a downpour. When the elevator stopped on their floor, Mom frowned.
“What’s wrong?” I asked.
“Nothing,” she said, then added, “It’s just – it’s almost over, isn't it?”
We all shared a sigh then went off to our rooms with that happy/sad feeling that comes at the end of a good, full day, near the end of a good, full trip.
How can Perfection keep getting better? But it's about to end.
Can't wait for the Bus Trip to Harlem adventure!
Stares, no kidding. I think I'll never bother writing a trip report again, because anything I do write will pale by comparison (I'm in NY right now, so I promise I'll write about a few restaurants, but that's it!)
My goodness... what is in the waters of Danville, Illinois? Many of us New Yorkers still miss
Bobby Short.
You got me with those last three paragraphs. Bittersweet.
I'm with starrs - I can't wait for the next installment!
This is like coming to the end of a good book when you almost hate to read the last page.
Whay an entertaining read! Mum and Gladys are a hoot!
Oops! That's what not whay! And I haven't even had one drink let alone three!
Darcy, I'm thoroughly enjoying your beautifully written trip report, all the more so because I can connect with four specific facets of it.
First, "21": I'm happy you took my suggestion back in May and used VillageVines (now Savored) to book your discounted reservation. It's one of those "only-in-New York" sorts of places, not dissimilar from so many of the other experiences you've reported on.
Second, Anything Goes and its ushers: I'm glad you enjoyed this quintessential Broadway show, with its time-honored, memorable songs. How many other current Broadway productions can you leave humming the tunes? Your descriptions of Sutton Foster and Joel Grey were spot-on, particularly her ability to keep belting out the title song after an exhilarating and, no doubt, exhausting nine-minute-long tap dance number that's the first-act finale.
We had a different sort of experience with a Stephen Sondheim mezzanine usher. A couple behind us returned from intermission armed with two huge bags of M&Ms. Despite the usher's warning that no food was allowed in the theater, they couldn't resist noisily opening a bag after the second act had begun. They weren't the least bit discreet about it, and they were disturbing us and other people around them. I turned around and gave them the silent stare, to which the woman responded, a little too loudly, "You got a problem?" I quietly said, "Yes. This is not your living room. Please stop." They did.
I know your mom innocently took her photograph before the show began, and that it wasn't likely to have disturbed anyone near her, but the usher needed to respond as Mrs. Zielinski would have in order to prevent others from taking flash photos while the show was in progress. Ushers such as you encountered are, unfortunately, necessary so long as there are selfish boors who insist on trampling on others' enjoyment.
Third, Danville, Illinois: Many years ago (before the "ozone crisis"), I was a technical service engineer with Allied Chemical (now Honeywell), working in the fluorocarbon business area. I visited Allied's Danville plant, which produced these products, many times from 1966 through 1986, not knowing then of Bobby Short and only now learning that he was a Danville native.
And, fourth, the Café Carlyle and Bemelman's Bar. As Gwendolynn mentioned above, many of us still miss Bobby Short's appearances at the Carlyle. He was the epitome of elegant cabaret, and his repertoire, repartee and delivery were matchless. The Carlyle remains a special place, even in his absence.
Many years ago, we were having dinner in the Carlyle Dining Room before a set in the Café by the Modern Jazz Quartet. John Lewis, Milt Jackson, Percy Heath and Connie Kay were dining nearby and, being a fan, I approached them to tell them how much I admired their style and grace. They engagingly acknowledged my compliment and asked if there was anything I might want to hear that night. Wow! "Something from No Sun in Venice?" I said. And, sure enough, they played "The Golden Striker" for me that night. All these years later, I remember every detail.
Your description of Bemelman's Bar evokes the place perfectly, right down to the bar snacks and drinks. How perfect was it that the circle of your trip was closed by the pianist's playing of "I Get a Kick Out of You" from, what else, Anything Goes?
Oh, and by the way, those punkers you encountered probably had net worth exceeding that of some small countries.
What a great trip you had!
Besides the very expensive restaurants in NYC, the waiters and waitresses are aspiring something elses. We often play guess the profession. Mrs. Adu thinks a skinny young woman with her tied back is a dancer. A young woman with dark hair parted down the middle, with an air of detachement is a poet, maybe a writer of prose.
Men with glowing skin that looks like product of a bikini wax are dancers and singers.
We rarely guess male musicians and the musicians we know rarely are waiters.
Sometimes I am stumped by male actors and writers. Many actors want to look like more like a writer, the glasses and stubble are confusing.
A thousand years ago they were also cabbies and in the 1970's many writers worked in typesetting, especially as proofreaders and in production.
Apropos boorish Broadway theatergoers, here's a link to an article in today's New York Times entitled "Where Manners Go Missing." It bemoans the behavior of some United States Open tennis fans, comparing them to some patrons at theaters and concerts. I find the reference to Alec Baldwin absolutely hilarious.
http://nyti.ms/oGdNJh
Great article - Thanks Burt! (I could do one about people talking and on their cellphones and eating (don't they know we are closer than the ground for the birds) on HOHO buses.
Can't wait to hear more - and I'm wondering if the punch line is now Mama and Gladys want you to take them to Paris next summer!
I've got tons to say about your responses but this morning I have no time to say them. Back later. For now, here's the next installment in the trip report that never ends
In case it wasn’t already apparent, my friend is a bit of a night owl. She has trouble sleeping and I’m sure my snoring didn’t help. So I wasn’t surprised when, at 11:45 PM on Sunday, she announced that she was going out to look for sushi. I also wasn’t surprised when she came back a few hours later, sans sushi, but with stories to tell about a hotel bar that was open later (much later) than ours, and the interesting folks she met there. And I wasn’t disappointed when she decided to sleep late the next day.
From the start, we’d decided that this vacation belonged to all of us equally and that what the majority of us wanted to do would not trump what each individual wanted. Besides, in her real life, my friend not only works full time, she also cares for her mentally challenged twin brother. Whatever she wanted to do, she deserved it.
I met up with the golden girls alone – but not until AFTER breakfast. The ladies were thinking oatmeal and they figured they could find it cheaper than $7 a bowl at McDonalds. I wished them well and turned in the opposite direction toward a bagel and a tall coffee.
We met up at the corner and walked down the little hill to 1st Avenue, then made a left at the small park and crossed the street to the bus stop in front of the UN. It was still drizzling a little but not so much that Mom and Gladys couldn’t snap a few pictures.
When we boarded the bus, it was absolutely empty. We spread out and each picked a window all to ourselves. Except for our trip in from the airport, where the road hugged the river the whole way, I’d never been farther north in Manhattan than the art museum.
I wasn’t sure what I’d see, although I probably expected it to be less dramatic than whatever Mom and Gladys had in mind. As the bus shot north, the skyline flattened out. There were fewer tall buildings, less flashy, nationally known stores or banks with lobbies that could house a small town, more small groceries and hair salons – and an explosion of psychics. The hum and pace of the city outside the bus window began to seem more like what I’m used to in Chicago than the hyperdrive that is the rest of New York.
A few people got on the bus. A few people got off the bus. By the last stop, it was just Mom, Gladys and me again. I approached the driver to ask if we could stay on for the loop back around but he said no, he was going to the garage. I went back to tell the ladies. Mom stood up and gathered her umbrella but Gladys looked stricken. Apparently, when she signed on for our little tour, she’d never considered that she might have to get off the bus. In Harlem. To her credit, as soon as she realized there really was no other way, she put on her brave face and scooted off the bus like there was nothing she’d like better.
The rain had started up again but the bus stop heading downtown was just a half block away, right next to a long blue awning to help keep us dry. It’s a good thing the awning was so long too, because there are a whole lot more people leaving Harlem on a Monday morning than there are going there. We huddled with more than a dozen of our fellow potential passengers, then partook in one of our favorite pastimes of the week --
Tip #42: Talk to the locals. They’re the ones who really know the city and you’ll be surprised by what you learn.
Mom and Gladys are friendly by nature so this came easily to them, even, they found out, in Harlem. Within minutes they were talking about the virtues of the bus system with an older woman with beautiful long, silvery braids. I talked with a young man who lives in Midtown but visits his Mama’s neighborhood regularly.
While he’s there, he usually picks up cigarettes for a friend. They cost $13.00 a pack (!) in the rest of the city but in Harlem you can usually buy them for $11.25. He seemed to think this was quite the bargain until I told him about the smokers in Indiana who complain because cigarettes have gone up to $5.20. “Day-um,” he said. “If I tell my friend that, you just might end up with a new neighbor.”
The bus arrived and we got on. Mom and Gladys sat together this time while I took a seat by the lady with the silver hair. “Not much to see this way,” she warned and I wondered why one direction would be worse than the other. I soon found out she was talking about the side of the bus I’d chosen. Within a few blocks my view turned to construction of the 2nd Avenue subway project and stayed that way for most of the trip. The project is a subject that the silver lady had few kind words for. Colorful words, yes, she had plenty of those, but I won’t go into that here
Back in Midtown, we checked in with my friend, who was still a little sleepy, so we left her behind and headed off to our next destination.
Tip #43: From the east side of town, either the M15 or the M103 buses are good choices to get to Chinatown.
We chose the 103, since we hadn’t tried that route before. It dropped us off on a block that had a heavy concentration of jewelry stores. We had fun window shopping our way down the street. Gladys kept an eye out for silver horse charms for her granddaughter. We stopped in a store or two but could only find them in gold. I spotted a store that featured a large variety of “happy cat” figurines.
Tip #44: Save your souvenir shopping for Chinatown. You can get some great bargains there.
I’m not sure my purchase of five tiny plaster happy cats was the coup of the century at $15, but it was the perfect gift for my son and his ¼ Chinese, ¾ Vietnamese girlfriend. The ladies were happy with their buys too – from a souvenir store down around the block. Loaded with t-shirts, mugs and snow globes ($5, $4, and $3.50 respectively) we turned our attention to our next mission.
Tip #45: Be sure to stop for lunch. The food in Chinatown is not only good, it’s cheap.
And you already know how much we like cheap.
But before we could start looking in earnest, we were assailed by the purse people. There is a corner in Chinatown where you cannot take a step without someone offering to sell you “designer-handbag-cheap-cheap”. And since you –do- know how much the ladies like cheap, you won’t be surprised at how hard it was to keep them from taking the bait.
“But he had pictures,” Mama said. As if the ability to snap a digital photo lent an air of legitimacy to process. “They were cupped in his hand. Like this--” She mimicked the guy’s motions. We stopped walking then because I wanted to make sure they both understood what I was about to say.
Tip #46: Do NOT follow anyone who wants to show you a bargain. It is illegal to sell fake designer goods on the street. It is illegal to buy them too.
I swear, you would have thought I’d stolen ice cream from them by the looks on their faces, but they promised to be good, then refocused on finding lunch.
Tip #47: Almost every restaurant in New York posts its menu in the window. Check it before you commit to going inside.
The first window menu we browsed was eight pages long, all of it in teeny tiny Chinese print. There were English translations too, in even tinier font below. The ladies squinted with their noses near the glass to see things like: duck feet, fish balls and the special du jour: Pork Blood Casserole. Mom shook her head vigorously. This would not do.
The next menu included a few entrees that were more familiar to her but it was still heavy on the poultry feet, so we continued on. The Happy Lucky Restaurant is also called the Emperor Shabu Restaurant, depending on which door you enter. It’s also actually Japanese, not Chinese, but the menu was glossy and in full color and it had things like spring rolls and chicken fried rice on it. Mom smiled and gave me the thumbs up.
We felt both happy and lucky to have found this place. It was super clean, nicely decorated and well lit. Tea was served as soon as we were seated. A pot of soup arrived immediately after that, before we’d even ordered.
How to eat that soup was somewhat of a mystery. It came with one of those spoon/bowl things and chopsticks and featured broth, slivers of tender beef, a few big chunks of turnip, and sections of corn – still on the cob. Mom and I slurped the broth and beef with our spoons, speared the turnip with our chopsticks and ignored the corn. But Gladys wasn’t going to let it go to waste. She picked hers up and ate it with her fingers, typewriter style.
We ordered spring rolls as our appetizer. They came with three dips, one soy, one hot chili and one sweet chili. Mmmm. Our entrees, plain old chicken fried rice and sesame chicken were tasty and the portions were huge. Mom vowed to eat her entire meal (except the soup) with her chopsticks. Gladys and I cheered her on, but we used our forks.
The lunch crowd filled the place as we ate and a couple of Asian girls sat at the table next to ours. We were intrigued by their meal. Pots of steamy broth were brought out, set on heaters embedded into the tables. Each of them had a platter in front of them too, lined with fresh vegetables, greens, and thin shaved meat.
The girls used their chopsticks to pick up something from the platter, dunk it in the broth, and stir it around until cooked. When we asked them about it they said it was the shabu part of the restaurant but most people they knew called it hot pot. We would have loved to try it but by then, we were already stuffed. And all that stuffing had come at the cost of only $21. Score!
The ladies and I made our way back to the bus, stopping to admire the wares at the food shops along the way. One was devoted entirely to different types of dried mushrooms and another had baskets full of the most humongous carrots any of us had ever seen. Gladys chuckled and pointed across the street. “Look,” she said. “Rubber chickens!”
“Um,” I said, “I’m not sure they’re chickens and I don’t think they’re rubber.”
“Oh.”
Tip #48: Save some time on the last day of your trip to do things you hadn’t thought of in your planning.
While we ate our lunch we’d discussed what we wanted to do with the rest of the day. I was surprised when Mom and Gladys suggested the Museum of Natural History, especially since a couple of months earlier Mom had hinted that museums weren’t really her favorite thing.
If I’d known they might like to go to some, I would have planned a completely different trip. I LOVE MUSEUMS. But here we were, downtown on a weekday afternoon, and the museum they wanted to go to was a long taxi ride or several bus transfers on the other side of town. Plus, I did the calculations in my head and realized that, with our walks to various bus stops and our stroll through Chinatown, the ladies were pushing up against what had previously been their walking limit.
Did we have the energy –or the time- to get across town, walk through the museum, hook back up with my friend, and figure out somewhere to eat dinner? It didn’t seem likely but I LOVE MUSEUMS so I’d opened my bus map and started planning our route.
That’s when they revealed their true motivation. Their room at the Hilton contained some lovely bound books that offered all kinds of options for activities. For most of these, a price was offered as well. The Museum of Natural History had neglected to do this. The ladies wanted to go there -- because they thought it was free. Oh! In that case …
I told them I knew another place they might like to see. It was fairly close, just a short bus ride and a couple of blocks away. The interested looks on their faces let me know they had never been fully vested in the museum idea and they wouldn’t be too disappointed to miss it.
“Would you guys like to go to Ground Zero?” I asked.
To tell you the truth, I’d been surprised that it hadn’t come up even once during our planning. Now that I’d said it, the ladies were all about it. “Yes! Yes!” they said.
We got back on the bus and rode it through the foreign-feeling security point around City Hall. We got off right in front of City Hall Park – which is a lovely little gem of a space with a gorgeous fountain and interesting sculptures. From there it was just a short, short walk past St. Paul’s Chapel – where Gladys told us her grandson had volunteered with his church group in the weeks after 9/11.
Then we were there.
Tip #49: This one will be moot in a day or two but – Ground Zero is really just a construction site. Go to the Tribute Preview nearby instead.
But, even on that day in mid-August 2011, it was more than just a construction site.
We arrived at the corner and I started to continue on across the street. I’d known for ten years that the twin towers no longer existed – but my heart and my feet would not believe my head or my eyes. It took a second of blinking to understand. And then it took a whole lot more seconds of blinking – this time to hold back the tears – before I could go on, to cross the street in the other direction and head for the Tribute Preview.
I looked back once, when we got to the other side, and when I saw that American flag hanging from a crane, it was all I could do to keep from sobbing. And I wasn’t the only one.
Unfortunately, the preview site was so packed full that the ladies didn’t think they would be comfortable wedging in there. Fortunately, there is a large video display in the window facing the street that shows the progress made so far on the Memorial – which will open to the public on September 12th.
We stood there quietly watching the display for a while, and watching the people come out of the tribute building, shaken, comforting each other. It was a much harder thing to do than I’d thought – but I’m glad we went.
I was also glad to get back on the bus and be driven away from there. The memorial they have planned looks amazing but I wonder if anyone will ever be able to leave it feeling happy, or hopeful, or even just … not so sad?
whew --- you are amazing and your advice is right on target! Keep writing and thanks
Just read this, after watching CNN report on the memorial activities at Ground Zero. All I can say is, you are an amazing writer with a wonderful spirit, and I cannot say enough about your mother and Gladys.
no kidding! Given how much trouble you had planning this trip around them, they sure turned out to be "gamers"!
edv, I can't tell you how much I enjoyed your report. I am still bummed about not getting to go this summer but your report whets my appetite for a trip with my husband either this fall or in the spring.
Thanks to all of you for continuing to read our happy saga. Almost done, I promise!
sf7303, If you (or anyone else) stopped posting great and useful trip reports just because I lack the ability to be succint, I would have to kick myself. Looking forward to your report!
bspielman, Thank you for illuminating our Danville connections and for explaining the usher's behavior at the Sondheim. I know it sounds dim-witted but none of us connected the dots between Mom wanting a picture of the empty theatre and someone snapping a flash photo during the performance. You're right, the usher was just doing her job. Most of all, thank you for referring me to Village Vines. Dining at the 21 Club was an experience we'll never forget. The notion that we saved $75 while doing it adds even more to my bargain hunting mom and Gladys' memories.
P.S. You were probably right too about the punkers in the bar
Aduchamp, If not for our waitress' intense devotion to reading I would have guessed (like you wife) that she was a dancer. She was skinny, young, her hair was tied back and her movements (though unfortunately few) were quite graceful.
SueNYC, Ohmigosh, I could see Mom or Gladys taking a snack on the HOHO. I never imagined the frenzy that might work up with the birds but now I can't get the picture out of my head. Good thing we were stuffed full of pizza before taking our tour.
Cranachin, I saw the ladies yesterday. When I mentioned your post about Paris to Gladys she got a sparkle in her eye. Maybe I'd better start brushing up on my French
cferrb,
I listened to a lot of the coverage on the long drive over to see Mama and back yesterday. Had me in tears all over again.
follow_your_bliss, I'm bummed that you didn't get to go too. Hope your next trip works out!
edeevee - please hurry. I'm dying to hear the next chapter!
hazel1, Be careful what you wish for
We walked up and down the blocks two-by-two, as Mama and Gladys had long before learned:
Tip #50: Make sure you get out to other neighborhoods. Times Square is NOT New York City.
I agree with this tip. Arriving in the city (especially the first time) is such a sensory overload. And if you went straight to Times Square and never left it, you would have a pretty skewed idea of what the city is all about. But I also disagree because, for better or worse, Times Square IS New York. It’s just not all of it.
We’d gone there on our first night in town to ride the HOHO bus. Since that night though, we’d been driven past it and around it. We’d seen shows and nibbled at the edges of it. But we hadn’t been back to Times Square proper.
That first night I’d teased the ladies, promising that by the end of our trip I planned to drop them off in the middle of it while my friend and I went for drinks. “Oh no!” they’d shrieked and they literally clutched our arms the rest of the evening.
On our last night, when they asked what our plans were, I told them we were going to Times Square. I was surprised when Mom said, “You girls aren’t going to drop us off, are you?” – but with a smile on her face instead of a look of terror. I promised that we would stay with them – at least until after dinner. Then I asked them how they thought we should get there.
“Regular Times Square?” one of them asked and I nodded.
“The Crosstown,” they chorused. We made our way across the street to the bus stop, where Mom checked the schedule to see when the next one arrived. Once on the bus, it was Gladys who announced, “I think we get off at the next stop.” She started to push the tape to alert the driver but looked up first, to see that the stop had already been selected.
When we got off the bus, Mom asked, “Is the restaurant uptown or down?” I told her it was on west 44th so she led us to the corner, looked up at the sky to locate the “crystal ball” and turned north. At 44th she and Gladys made a right and Mom asked, “What’s the name of the place again?”
Tip #51: Virgil’s is a good, casual choice for a not-too-expensive meal and it’s right off of Times Square.
Even Aduchamp had agreed that this was a decent place to eat (for TS, that is), so we had to check it out.
We didn’t have reservations this night but it was still early for dinner by New York standards (around 7PM) so we crossed our fingers and ducked inside. Virgil’s aims to be a honky tonk barbeque joint – except that it is huge and in the middle of one of the biggest, toni-est cities in the world. Still, they mostly succeed at pretending to be a down home eatery.
We only had to wait a minute or two before being led to our seats upstairs. Our waiter took our drink orders, explained the specials and left us to the menus. I didn’t read the next tip until after our trip was finished:
Tip #52: It is okay to share an appetizer or dessert but, in most places, it is not right to share an entrée. Restaurants depend on filling all of their seats with paying customers.
I am sheepish but I will admit, I’m GLAD I didn’t know this before our visit. We shared entrees A LOT during our trip. You might suspect it was because we are so darned cheap but, really, you would be wrong. We weren’t out to save money – not at first, for sure. We’d budgeted around $60 each for regular daily meals. We expected to spend that much and more for a special dinner. But when we got to the city, and watched giant entrée after giant entrée being served at the tables around us, we knew it was more food than we could eat. It was more food than ANYONE could eat. I honestly do not understand why the portions were so huge everywhere. Including Virgil’s.
So we ordered an appetizer to share. And when the waiter overheard us discussing whether we should try one entrée or two between the four of us, he did not roll his eyes or give any hint that we were about to commit a mortal sin. He just suggested that if we planned to split, we might like to try the PIG OUT and order extra cornbread as well as an extra side. And that’s what we did.
The onion rings were yummy and plentiful and came with a dip. The cornbread was heavenly. Gladys (who is a mighty fine, though plain, cook) thought they might be made with a good dose of sour cream in the batter. The potato salad was a disappointment. The spuds were a little mushy for my taste and the seasoning a little too creamy and sweet. The slaw was fresh tasting and first rate.
The barbequed meat was the star of the meal though – and the Pig Out provided a lot of it. Spare ribs, beef brisket, pulled pork, barbequed chicken and smoked sausage. Each was cooked with its own distinct sauce and if that wasn’t saucy enough for ya, a variety of additional ones were available on the table. That one entrée was enough for all of us to sample 3-4 bites of each offering. Everyone had their own favorite but I liked the fall-off-the-bone spare ribs the best.
One of the benefits of entrée splitting was: we had room for dessert. But just a little room. So we ordered one piece of peanut butter pie to share between the four of us and it was just right.
Still blissfully unaware that we’d committed a dining faux pas, we left our tip, paid our bill and ambled out into the night. The rain had finally ended for good. The evening was a pleasant one – but still too cloudy to do TOTR
Tip #53: Walking four abreast is not only rude, it is impossible in most parts of the city.
We ogled. We laughed. We had Elmo take our picture. By ten, the ladies were waning. It had been a long day that had seen us from uptown to downtown and points in between. We needed to get back to our hotel, but we had a couple more stops to make first.
I’ve told you that my friend cares for her disabled twin brother. Before our trip, when she’d asked him what he wanted her to bring back for him, he hadn’t asked for snowglobes or t-shirts or even a miniature statue of liberty. Instead, he’d wanted newspapers and TV Guides. My friend had dutifully collected these all week. Now she needed something to cart them all home in.
Tip #54: (This one’s from me.) Walgreen’s sells a sturdy reusable shopping bag that is decorated with a vintage print of Times Square for only $2.99. It’s a great souvenir.
It also looked to be the perfect size. We made our purchase, then Mom and Gladys led us back to our stop where we waited to ride “our” bus one last time. After getting off at the hotel, we made one last stop at “our” little deli around the corner for Diet Pepsi provisions, then turned in for the night.
Still so glad the group made such good use of the bus system! Waiting for the next (final?) episode. . .
I've enjoyed your trip report ... sorry I'm so tardy in chiming in.
However, I'm not sure I agree with Tip #52 at all. I always share entrees when it makes sense. At some restaurants I always share; at others it depends. I'd probably have a different answer for a fancy restaurant, but no one should ever be shy about sharing in New York City unless you are going to a fancy place. I've been to Virgil's many times, and I often do exactly what you've done ... and at other restaurants too.
My only quibble is that I really find Virgil's sub-standard lately. It's always been a restaurant of ups and downs. For my money, it's in a particularly depressing and long-standing "down" period right now, and I just don't recommend it to people any more. Maybe you had a better experience than I had last time, but the food when I went a few months ago was downright not very good. I suspect that's probably why you found the wait rather short. People are flocking to the infinitely better bbq restaurants that have opened in the past few years, some close to Times Square.
For something simple and casual, Hill Country is actually significantly better than Virgil's. But there is much better bbq to be had in Manhattan.
Just wanted to chime in too, also enjoying your report and agree with Doug's comment, my DH and I share entrees a lot, especially if we order two appetizers. Or, sometimes we just make a meal out of appetizers. No faux pax there!
I disagree with the concept of sharing entrées in a restaurant, fine or otherwise. These places are in the business of making a profit, and sharing cheats the restaurant because the table that the sharers are occupying might have been taken by diners who order individually.
We know many restaurateurs. They'll never, for obvious customer service reasons, express an opinion on sharing to the customers who do so, but, privately, they fume that such diners do not understand the slim profit margins they operate under.
Operating a restaurant is a tough business under any circumstances. The last thing any restaurant needs is a bunch of tables that generate half the income they would were people not sharing. Suppose you went to the theater or to a concert, or to a football game, say, and occupied your seat for several hours, but only offered to pay half the price of admission. Would they let you in at all?
I feel, if you go to a restaurant, you're entering a contract with it. They give you a table for several hours and each of you order from the menu. If you can't finish what admittedly may be large portions, most restaurants, even the very finest ones, will pack the leftovers to go with you when you leave.
All of this is not to mention the effect of sharing on tips for the restaurant's staff. A waiter works equally hard serving a table of sharers, but receives a tip, if s/he is lucky, of only half what it would have been had people not been sharing.
And, if finances are the issue, then go to a more modestly priced place. It's only fair.
I hope this isn't too technical, but that's a bunch of hooey.
I'll probably regret jumping into this, but perhaps the restaurants should not make their servings so large. Just sayin'.
"I'll probably regret jumping into this, but perhaps the restaurants should not make their servings so large."
No kidding.
The "to go" argument isn't valid for tourists who are staying in hotel rooms.
I don't think the argument is a good one either. Make the portions reasonable and lower the price to reflect the downsizing, and maybe we will order two entrees Anyway, If we each order an entree, we 're not nearly as likely to order appetizers or dessert, it's just too much food.
Have a look at this site. There are a view really good tips for New York, Special if you want to see a lot of sights or go to museums.
www.newyorkpass.com
FYI, we usually have a cocktail than a bottle of wine with dinner, which most of the time is more than the cost of an entree. Since wine is usually marked up at least 100%, I feel the restaurant is making plenty of money with the profit on our alcohol consumption alone....
Endings are always the hardest thing to write, especially when there is so little –and so much- left to say.
On the last morning of our trip we woke to a dreary murk. The little slice of the East River that we could see from our room on the 17th floor was completely obscured by fog. This would not bode well for our travel plans, but we weren’t thinking about that yet. Instead, we were thinking breakfast.
We walked over to John’s Café where we scored our favorite booth, the one right in front with the big windows that let us watch all the people as they made their way to work. That morning, along with the business men and women in their suits and dresses, and the dreadlocked construction workers, we spotted a lady in a kimono! Breakfast was good, as usual, and we agreed we would miss this place and the great start it gave to our days in the city.
A couple of hours later we were packed and standing on the sidewalk as the taxi driver loaded our bags into his big trunk. We all waved goodbye to the doorman and the Hooter/Cooter/Tudor/Hilton Hotel that had been our home for the past week. We would miss that place too.
Tip #55: Don’t let the ease of arriving at LaGuardia lull you into thinking the departure will be simple as well. It isn’t.
The ticketing area at LGA is not large enough to accommodate all the passengers who need to go through it. Nor are the various stations plainly marked. When you add in the fact that most of the folks who are sharing the space with you are English-speaking-challenged at best, what you get = Chaos.
This probably should have appeared at the beginning of this report but, really, it posed no problem until the end:
Tip #56: Try (try, Try, TRY!) to pack so that you can get by with just a carry on. Life is simpler (and cheaper) that way.
My friend and I had managed to do this. The ladies, unfortunately, had not. This meant we couldn’t just check in electronically and head over to security. Instead Mom and Gladys had to wait in a tremendous line to check their bags and pay the $25 baggage fee. This wouldn’t have been so bad but when they finally got to the front of the line they were “served” by a man who I can only guess must have been the father of The Worst Waitress in New York, except that he didn’t have cuteness or a love of reading to counter his incompetence.
The ladies only had $50’s left in their billfolds and the agent claimed he had no change. Now, if my friend and I were at the counter with them, we might have been able to offer our help. We might have suggested the ladies pay with their credit cards. We might have realized that $25 x 2 = $50 and asked them to consider paying together and settling up later. We might have suggested someone go get some !@#@!#! change.
Alas, my friend and I were smooshed up against a wall on the far side of the area, fielding questions in broken English from our fellow travelers about which line they should wait in, how to use the auto check in and where the nearest restroom might be hidden. (Honestly, Delta, we should have been on your payroll for the 40 minutes it took for Mom and Gladys to get through the line, check their bags and ultimately receive change for their 50s – all in ones I might add.)
Next up was Security, where the workers are much more polite but it’s still no picnic when two of your travel partners have the type of pacemakers that don’t allow for regular scanning.
All of this took time. So did trekking to the other side of the terminal because all of the restrooms in our gate area were closed due to renovation and Gladys’ water pill had kicked in again. But time turned out to be something we had plenty of. Our flight was delayed. So were the two flights in front of us.
We passed the rest of the morning into the early afternoon people watching and discussing our favorite parts of the trip. This took a lot of time too – because EVERY part of our trip was our favorite part.
Seriously, until we stepped into the airport, nearly every moment of our visit had been a delight. And so, despite the travails of the morning, we were still smiling when our flight was called. We were even still smiling after we lugged our carry ons down two flights of stairs, across the tarmac, into a bus and up one of those temporary staircases to board our plane. Believe it or not, we were still smiling nearly an hour later when our flight was finally cleared for take off.
It wasn’t the smoothest plane ride ever. Not by a long shot. One time I heard Mom let out a “Whoop!” from the tiny bathroom when we made an unexpected dip. She came back to her seat with her eyebrows raised, sweat dotting her upper lip and vowing to order a “real” drink if the attendants made a second trip through the cabin.
The clouds and bumpiness had all cleared out by the time we were over Ohio and we landed back in Indiana to a beautiful day.
The Indianapolis Airport is our “home” airport. Even though it has recently been rebuilt, we had all flown both out of and into it before. Arriving home this time though, we saw it with new eyes. The sheer vastness of the place was a shock. It felt weird walking four by four again down the long, open corridors. We were more comfortable crammed two by two on the escalators, even when we were the only ones on it.
Coming home from a place where whole restaurants are situated in rooms no bigger than a decent Midwest master bedroom, where a souvenir shop can be found wedged into a walk in closet and your “personal space preference” has been redefined to equal “as long as no one else is touching me … much” we were surprised at our reactions. It wasn’t relief, or a happy return to the familiar. Instead the wide openness of everything and the distances between it all felt kind of inefficient and somehow gluttoness.
After picking up the ladies’ bags then traveling down an escalator only to walk a few feet and travel back up another, then cross a skybridge, then down one more time, it was time for us to part. Mom, my friend and Gladys had a date with the hotel shuttle that would take them to their car. I had to travel to the far hinterlands of the economy lot to retrieve mine. It was hard to say goodbye.
We hugged each other, shuffled our feet, hugged each other again. We promised to travel together again some time.
The writer in me wants to tell you that the last thing Mom said was to be sure to thank all of you “wonderful website people” for your amazing help. But that’s not true. Although she and Gladys and my friend must have said those words a thousand times during our trip, and had said them at least a dozen times that day, the real last thing my mom said to me was, “I love you.”
Which, I guess, is a pretty perfect ending in itself.
So glad to read the last post.
So sad to read the last post.
Thanks for taking us along on the adventure.
Great report. I really enjoyed your writing style - quite a few visuals and laughs.
Thank you for your trip report. It seems that when many people travel, and not just to NY, they allow the trip to govern them over rather than creating their own sense of enjoyment. You are a keen observer who approached the visit through an unjaundiced eye. Of course, as a professional writer you know how to construct and maintain a narrative and use detail for a purpose. It was greatly appreciated.
Please return and don't forget to bring those two old albatrosses.
This was beautiful. I'm sure your mom will remember this trip to the end of her life. And so will you. How lucky you both are.
Thank you so much for taking us along on your visit. Please come back soon!
What a GREAT ending. I loved your report - thank you so much for sharing it with us.
PLEASE go somewhere else with these wonderful ladies and tell us all about it! What a great report!
I too am sad to read the end of this most delightful and charming trip report. Thank you SO much for taking the time to share this with us, and so skillfully at that!
I, and I am sure many others, can't wait for you to go away again!
Lovely report entirely. I'm sad to see it end. Thank you for writing.
Yeah I'm sad to see it end too - Do visit again sometime
Thank you for allowing us to come along on your journey. The ending was perfect.
This would make a marvelous book, illustrated by Helen Hokinson (I think) of The New Yorker magazine, who loved the ladies of a certain age.
edeevee, I'd like to add my name to the chorus of posters who thank you for your wonderful trip report.
Without offending anyone else, I have to say that for me, personally, this is one of the very best I've ever read! Aside from your astute observations and witty writing style, I love your down-to-earth take on things, and the way you accept and embrace your travel experiences with a delightful sense of humor. I suspect you're a secret New Yorker at heart.
I think Mayor Bloomberg should give you the keys to city as an honorary citizen!
Topping
Because more people need to know about - and enjoy - this thread
Great report!
Aww. you guys.
Some of you have been with me since the beginning – the real beginning. Way back in January, we were four strong women who had suffered through a couple of extraordinarily tough years. Each of us had lost something. Me, the least. My youngest child had graduated from college and accepted a job three states away. Mama’s health and finances had declined to the point where managing two homes was becoming impossible, and though she loved them both, something had to give. My friend said goodbye to her father, her marriage and her mother, then fell for a guy who swindled her out of her inheritance. And Gladys – she’d watched her husband of 53 years die a slow and painful death.
January, being what it is, added insult to injury. I knew that each of us would survive but I also knew that we needed help; we needed something to look forward to. I was on the phone with Mom one day when New York crept into the conversation. She reminded me that she’d never been there. “Let’s go.” I said.
This forum was the first place I went after hanging up the phone. Since that cold, dark, January day you’ve given us everything. Your opinions, your honesty, your concern, your friendship, sometimes your patience, your knowledge and your passion for this wonderful city. You helped me plan an amazing trip, near perfect at every turn.
It seems almost silly to say that the trip was just a bonus. But the truth is, even if some last minute glitch had stolen this opportunity from us, we each would have still gained something precious. Through the days and months of details and debates, of routes and modes and great places to eat, what you really gave us was a distraction – something shiny enough to steal our attentions away from the huge, sad elephants that had been occupying the middle of our rooms for too long. You gave us space and time to heal.
For that, more than anything, I am grateful.
And for the trip, bonus that it was.
The experiences we shared there and the memories we made still sustain us as we move forward in our lives. Mama’s in Florida full time now. Gladys is planning to visit her soon. My friend is looking at paint chips, hoping to correct a few decades of decorating disasters that befell the family homestead when it was used as a rental. And me?
Well, last night I came back to Fodors and typed in ‘New Orleans’. I hear August is a terrible month to visit
This was I think the best trip report I've read - more like a novel. I'm thinking of starting to research New Orleans just so I can read more from you! Thanks.
topping again - because it's that good!
beautiful words, edeevee.
This was a beautiful story. As a mother, and a daughter, I so enjoyed every word. I agree with all who have suggested you put it all into book form.Then the 4 of you can appear on The Early Show to promote it.
topping a classic trip report
Thanks! Great trip and a fabulous read.
bookmarking
I love your trip report. I should have had you ghost write mine!
I just about fell out of my chair when I read references to pizza places in the Midwest that I was familiar with.
Thanks to starrs for topping it up.
What an amazing TR. So happy to have found this after missing it in 2011. Yes, thanks starrs!
thanks starrs.
edevee what is the name of your book?
Google "Darcy Vance complete book list" and that should get you started.
I had to smile at the Theatre Cop. When we saw Wicked in Chicago, an usher watched to make sure people weren't taking photos of each other before the show. When someone in front of us did, she made them erase the photo and then confiscated the camera and said they could pick it up after the show. Now that's strict!
That's one reason I was so surprised when two people in front of us at Priscilla held their cell phones up often to take photos and, I think, video of the show. One of the ushers stopped people from taking photos of each other at intermission - but must have been sleeping during the actual show.
OMG - the Monical's reference surprised me, but as I read along, I realized that you went to school with my sister.
On our first trip to NYC, we thought about going to the Carlyle Cafe because of the Bobby Short connection. That was long before Fodor's. We didn't do enough research in advance and didn't make it there. How I wish that we had.
Over a period of several days, I've savored your trip report. I've enjoyed many since my discovery of Fodors in 2005, but I don't know that I've ever read one and then cried both at its poignancy and that it was over.
Before I finished, I realized that not just you but also your friend had gone to school with my sister and that we all have those matching sturdy Walgreen's tote bags.
Thank you for sharing your trip with all of us. It was almost as good as being along with you.
This was an amazing trip report...so glad you topped it starrs!
topping my favorite trip report of all time
This time to help me plan MY trip
yes. Totally agree this is one fine piece of writing and adventure that touches our hearts.
Indeed it is...wish edeevee would return and let us know how the ladies are getting along these days.
Thanks starrs for topping again - I'd missed this amazing TR before now, even though I remember contributing to the initial should-we-or-shouldn't-we thread.
I too hope you'll come back sometime and give us an update.
edeevee, it's not an exaggeration to say this is a wonderful piece of writing. I've noted your novel(s) and am going to go get them under the pretext of giving them to my niece!
a great read, thanks for topping....
edeevee:
I just read your trip report from beginning to end.
When I first came to this country, quite a few years ago, I lived in Danville, IL for about 6 months. Your description of Mom and Gladys rang a bell. The local ladies always offered me iced tea thinking they were being so nice to me. Of course I only drank hot tea but it was the thought that counted.
I am so glad that you took mom and Gladys plus your friend to NTC. Well done.
Sandy
Wow. How pleasant it is to come back after all this time and find that people are still reading about our little adventure.
I'm heading to the Tennessee board now.
Mama sold her home in Illinois and has been living full time in Florida for nine months now.
She and Gladys miss each other. Although they've made plans a couple of times, they still haven't seen each other since Mom's big move. Gladys' health has been the issue.
My friend took a tumble off a chair she was using as a ladder and broke her ankle late last fall.
As for me, my father was diagnosed with a reoccurence of prostate cancer just a few weeks after our trip. The only traveling I did until recently was the 10 hour drive to and from his home in Missouri to help care for him during his last weeks.
We are all, once again, in various stages of healing.
Last month, my husband and I finally got a chance to spend a few days with Mom down in Naples. I'm happy to report that she is settling into the life of a full-time, retired Floridian with gusto.
We arrived on a Sunday and after a delicious home-cooked meal (the last one we would have all week) Mama introduced us to her new hobby ... slot machines.
One might think that someone as frugal as my mother would have a hard time throwing money away at her neighborhood mini-casino, but then, one might not know that my mom is un-naturally lucky.
The "casino" is a friendly place, tucked into a nearby strip mall. Mama invests $20 a week in her passtime which she recoups in FREE Diet Pepsi and FREE snacks. A few times a week they offer a FREE meal too. We ate there twice during our trip. There are no cash prizes but if she earns enough points she can claim a gift card to her choice of gas stations, restaurants and super stores. And she always earns enough points. Really, it's almost freakish how lucky she is at those machines.
She doesn't spend all of her time (or eat all of her meals) at the casino though. Of course not! On Tuesdays there is half-price pizza to be had at a sports bar across town. Wednesdays, her neighbor's church does an amazing $6 community dinner. Thursdays are reserved for grilled pork chops at the Moose (another $6.00 wonder). Fridays are happy hour, snacks, and penny a point bingo at the clubhouse. We had a wonderful (and cheap) visit.
When we weren't hittin' the slots or discount dining Mom and I talked a lot about where our next trip should be. New Orleans is out for this year. My friend and I are both slowly rebuilding up our leave time from work after her mishap and my dad's passing. We needed somewhere we could "do" in a long weekend, somewhere most of us had either never been or wanted to return to. Budget is always a concern -- and we didn't want it to be overwhelming for Gladys, who is better but still not back to 100%. We hadn't come up with anything by the time I had to go home to Indiana.
Then one day, while eating ribs on my patio, I remembered something Gladys had said on the last night of our trip, while we shared one giant entree at Virgil's. It was something about barbeque, ducks and a hotel lobby. I plugged those keywords into Google and the search came back: Memphis.
It's perfect. Not too far. Not too big. Not too exotic in the food department for Mom and Gladys. Plenty of bars for my night owl best friend. And for me? Well, ANYWHERE is a great destination as long as I can share it with these ladies.
I called Mama right away. "Isn't that where Graceland is?" she asked. When I confirmed that it was, indeed, the home of Elvis, she answered, "Oh yes. Yes! YES!"
We're traveling there September 7th - 10th. Where should we go? What should we see/eat? And, of course, if you know of any good bargains ...
Hi! So nice to hear from you--thanks for the update. My condolences on the loss of your father. Your mom is a gem, but I'm sure you already know that.
DD and I spent a week in New York at the end of May and as we stood waiting for a bus on 42nd Street I looked up and realized we were near the Hooter/Cooter/Tudor/Hilton hotel you all stayed at and it made me smile.
Topping again - and LOVE the update!
Happy Birthday edeevee! Hoping all of your birthday travel wishes come true this year!
"The driver was friendly, courteous and smart too. He even knew how many flags fly outside the United Nations building."
All NYC taxi drivers must have a college degree. A Ph.D. to drive in Manhattan. Next time you get a driver from Russia or India, ask him what his degree is in. Most likely physics, engineering, or he was a doctor back home.
BTW, to check if someone really knows NYC, ask 'em what street Manhattan beach is on.
A very late response to your post. I LOVED your trip report so much - I agree with one of the other posters who said is was the best trip report ever! I laughed out loud at the exploits of your mother & Gladys... there is definitely a screenplay in there somewhere...
Loved this comment:
"BTW, if you use the restroom at Tiffany’s it feels like you are piddling in a bank vault. Just an fyi."
I am heading to NYC for the very first time in a few weeks and I will try to give as good a report as you have..
Fun report! Bookmarking
Great trip report! Thanks for pointing this out starrs!
I wonder if they made it to Memphis last month?
Yes. She wrote a trip report.
Wwll, I THOUGHT she did but I can't find it.
Very well written! I have googled the Hop On Hop Off Tour but I find more than one company who offers the tour. Which company did you use? Or, perhaps, Starrs could advise me on this?
I can't recommend one over another. We have a Fodorite who worked on one of them. Maybe she can. I really like the easy convenience. The routes take them to the main tourist locations and you don't have to figure out bus schedules and maps. If the bus is bogged down in Times Square, get out and walk to another pickup point. Or just sit back and relax and people watch. Free entertainment - and you're probably tired of walking anyway. Just consider it a (slowly) moving rest stop.
To the list of people who have all gotten so, so much delight from this trip report, I add my name.
What a beautiful report-- forget about writing as well as edeevee.... I'd love to be able to plan travel as well as she can!
I have just read this trip report from start to finish. Very impressive indeed. I love the format and it has made my day to hear about your adventures.
Some great advice there for my upcoming trip. Many thanks.