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Last night we went to Del Posto for a celebratory dinner. It was a very good meal, not great, with an extraordinary price. The restaurant rises like a palazzo in the meatpacking district just below the weedy corpse of the highline and there are reminders of Italian pretense everywhere. You drop off your coat at the Guardaroba. Actually I become concerned because I thought I was once arrested by them. Across is the ascensore. We ate on the balcony which we ascended gingerly since there was no escalator(ito). The friendly and numerous staff were knowledgeable and attentive but not intrusive or fawning. Only one person had a glass of wine and, when someone in our group made a comment about it, the second assistant sommelier gave her a little taste. One friend had a Dubonnet, which turned out to be $20.

The amuse bouche, ( I am sorry I do not remember the Italian phrase they used) included a dollop of a barley/ chocolate soup which was more intriguing than satisfying. There is a variety of homemade breads which were good and the focaccia exceptional. It was accompanied by butter and lardo, which is crushed pork fat, garlic, butter, and salt cured for 6 months. Ours I think was only cured for five months. The savory lardo was a foil to the sweet butter; once again it was more intriguing than satisfying.

Del Posto only allows the tasting menu if all everyone at the table acquiesces. (The Mussolini factor.) For $95 a person, you get an antipasto, exactly two tastes of pasta, secondo, e dolci. For antipastos, we opted for the mozzarella with beets, sunchokes with walnuts, lobster salad fra diavola, and goose liver with figs. (I asked for a copy of the menu, so I could report with accuracy.) Far and way the best dish was the lobster with its different flavors.

We passed the plates around the table, as if it were the Italian version of speed dating. We were allowed two pastas to taste and we chose the ravioli with black truffle butter and oreccchiette with lamb’s neck sausage, carrots, and caraway. While the three ravioli looked lonely on the plate, the best dish of the evening was the orecchiette. The different flavors blended well for an excellent result.

For the main courses, we ordered Arctic chard, wild striped bass, duck, and cacciuccio, an Italian bouillabaisse. None were outstanding. They, of course, were well prepared but none were memorable.

For desserts, we chose the chocolate ricotta tortino with olive oil, torta with parsnip gelato and a buckwheat crepe with pumpkin, apple, and crème fraiche. These were the highlights of the meal. The chocolate ricotta was rich and creamy. There had been some debate on whether we would survive the parsnip gelato but the final decision was a firm “What the hell.” The parsnip flavor was delicate and the torta was delectable. The buckwheat crespelle could have been the best with a perfect compliment of ingredients.

The check is an 8 x 10 piece of paper. And as the restaurant filled, we felt like it was more of an eviction notice. (Cheap joke, the staff was implacable and never rushed us.)

We have eaten at Lupa ( a few times), Casa Mono (a few times), and Esca but not Babbo. This is best restaurant of his at which we eaten and clearly the most expensive. Mario Batali remains an over-rated and over-extended chef in New York. The press has reported that the restaurant cost $10 million to open and they tried to cover the nut in one night. Of course, we did not see Mario Batali roaming the halls, but I was grateful for I was fearful he would be wearing his customary AC/DC shorts and orange crocs.

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