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Charleston, SC and up the coast, sort of

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Old Jun 20th, 2011, 01:36 PM
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Charleston, SC and up the coast, sort of

First, thanks to all for the ideas of what to see and do along the way.

We left MD on a Thursday late afternoon on our way to a Saturday wedding in Charleston with a stop in Emporia VA, arriving North Charlseton on Friday in the Early afternoon. Why North Charleston - well, it was to meet up with BIL and SIL who were there to scout the Charleston area out as a place to live and they had Marriott points. The only impression I have of N. Charleston is that it must be the Hotel/Motel capital of SC. We were ate the Springhill Suites and I think every chain that exists in the US was within a quarter mile.

First thing was to go into Charleston for dinner. Following Fodorite advice, we tried to get a reservation at SNOB but they were booked, I believe until 2024 or thereabouts. No SNOBs for us this trip. So we found a table at Magnolia which was as nice as Fodorites said it was. I had the parmesan crusted flounder and washed everything down with Palmetto Pale Ale - fine stuff. Everyone was happy with their food and we then looked at the stalls on Market St - a nice combination of nice crafts and sweetgrass baskets and schlock. One store that the ladies enjoyed was "Filthy Rich" which has reproductions of jewelry worn by the rich and famous. DW bought a pin there this past January based on a Dali painting. It always get noticed, like, what the heck is that supposed to be!

Next day we checked into what was to be our home for the next 3 nights - a B&B called Plantation Oaks and now the trip really begins.

Gotta go - bye y'all till later.
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Old Jun 20th, 2011, 02:20 PM
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Hi basingstoke!

I can't wait to hear about the rest. Did y'all burn up at the wedding? Told ya to just leave that ole wool suit at home....
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Old Jun 20th, 2011, 05:41 PM
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Hi Suewoo - I imported the following from what I posted on the lounge. Then I will go on about the B&B and the rest.

Wore my seersucker and at least a half dozen others wore similar.

All of the men in the bridal party wore tan poplin suits with loafers (socks too).

Bridesmaids were all in light green of varying designs - very pretty.

Ceremony began at 6 pm outdoors with the lake and fountain as a backdrop. Music was cello, oboe, and flute. Much of it taken from the Watermusic - beautiful and perfect. The bride did an excellent planning job. Temperature was comfortable but setting sun was STRONG. Ornamental fans were supplied to all.

Reception was in the Pavilion which was enclosed for the occasion. Grooms family brought in a huge portable A/C unit that was effective.

Suewoo - if you haven't guessed, the groom is the weekend sports anchor on ABC channel 4.

And Ira, there was one guy in white linen and a white shirt. No tie though but he did wear saddle shoes (quite a few men did). Bow ties were popular too.

Checking into the Plantation Oaks B&B, or, I can see Suewoo's house from my porch.

The B&B is in Mount Pleasant, just a bit over the bridge from Charleston and adjacent to Boone Hall plantation. It is a log structure yet inside it has an elegance that is not what is usually expected in a log home. All of the bedrooms but one overlook the marsh and the view is quite lovely and a row of homes can be seen on the far side, one I believe belongs to fellow fodorite, Suewoo. She is lucky. The B&B has a screened porch upstairs and a deck on ground level with a beautiful lawn, complete with a large magnolia and live oaks going down to the marsh. Our room, although not overly large, was not small either and very nicely furnished complete with a four poster bed and walk in closet. Ours looked out to the Magnolia which was still in bloom. Steve and Phyllis are fine hosts and make a mean breakfast - different each of the 3 mornings we were there and each day had a special treat. The breakfast room overlooks the back as well and we would watch the resident Night Heron make its rounds every morning. Overall the atmosphere can be described as romantic and it was a very relaxing stay. As their website implies, kids are not welcome.

Since the wedding would delay dinner until late evening, we took a couple of other wedding guests and went out for a simple meal at another fodorite recommended restaurant, Seewee. Seewee features simple, down home cooking in a setting to match. It is popular with locals. Although everything was good, some items were outstanding especially the fried okra and she crab soup. Best of all were the hush puppies and key lime pie - both were slap yo' mamma good!

Next came the wedding in a perfect setting and then home to sleep in out comfortable four poster.

Sunday morning was spent catching up with relatives and then into Charleston for a day off visiting the Charleston Museum, some historic homes, all on a pass supplied with our room. If you have yet to visit Charleston, make it a point to go. It is a very beautiful place, with wonderful historic buildings, great architecture, shopping and a fine arts scene.

Sunday was also a pedestrian day, where King street was mostly closed to traffic and shops were open - we walked from the battery to the Charleston museum accumulating packages along the way. Came dinner time and we took the free trolley back down to the historic area.

Next: Shrimp and Grits, a dish created by God.
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Old Jun 21st, 2011, 06:20 AM
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basingstoke,

I already guessed your nephew's identity.

And I remember some nice poster saying she lives near that B&B but it isn't me. I live in OLD Mount Pleasant.

I'm so glad you went to Seewee. Those hush puppies make me want to burst into song.

And the Historic District is really great, isn't it? I love going down there. But not today. We're under a heat advisory again.

And shrimp and grits were indeed bestowed upon us by the Lawd.
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Old Jun 21st, 2011, 08:37 AM
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Suewoo, Of course you are right about NOT seeing your house from the B&B porch. It was OhMyStars's house. Well then, she is sure lucky to have that view. And, you are lucky too living in such a beuatiful area.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2011, 06:06 PM
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Sunday dinner was at Blossoms. As much as we enjoyed Magnolia, we enjoyed Blossoms more. It is a bit more informal and modern and the food and service were excellent. DW had a beautifully grilled flounder - one of the best she ever had she said, and I started with an appetizer of scallops - those nice big sweet juicy ones. They were prepared with cracked pepper that made for a very nice contrast. Then came - drum roll please - my very first, but not to be my last, shrimp and grits. If you have never had that, as suewoo put so well, it is a dish "bestowed upon us by the Lawd." That must be true because I was in heaven eating it. Since I was a shrimp and grits virgin, I can say it was the best I have ever had with certainty and without any fear of contradiction. Simply put, it is a plate of grits prepared in a cheese sauce, with mushrooms, I believe peppers, spicy sausage and perfectly grilled large shrimp and I am sure other tasty ingredients. It is a dish that goes best with a robust beer or ale, not one for wine IMO.

This was to be our last day in Charleston proper. Monday our plan was to visit the Boone Hall Plantation and something else, yet undecided in the countryside. All this time, I had admired the sweet grass baskets and was reading up on them with a plan to purchase one or two before heading back up north. There are a number of vendors on Market Street but I just looked at the different designs to get an idea of what most appealed. These are mostly done by Gullah descendents using traditional basket weaving methods and designs handed down through generations - many are works of traditional folk art, others more for the commercial tourist market, so before buying it is good to learn the difference and learn what makes a quality basket. Anyone who has read my trip reports knows that we like to buy local handicrafts and art as mementos of a place. Beats the heck out of a tee shirt. Besides, the street that we live on is named Sweet Grass Ridge and I wanted to be the only kid on the block to have a sweet grass basket. Also, it supports local craftspeople and that is good.

Next: Living history at Boone Hall and we learn more about tea than we ever thought we would at North Americas only tea plantation.
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Old Jun 23rd, 2011, 10:01 AM
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How fun! And yes, a sweetgrass basket is a treasure. A tee shirt is a future rag. You know by now the basket makers have stands on Highway 17 in Mt P. I have several and I use them all the time.

And I'm so glad you enjoyed your first S&G! My favorite are at High Cotton and Atlanticville. I am a S&G purist: I like shrimp, grits, butter, salt and pepper. Nathalie Dupree (who lives on Queen Street) has written a great S&G cookbook, should you get inspired.
http://www.nathalie.com/nathalie_dup...book_52611.htm
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Old Jun 24th, 2011, 07:27 AM
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So Monday rolls around and it is our last day in the immediate area. We decided to visit Boone Hall Plantation, right next to our B&B and then the Tea Plantation since they would be novel and different. Having been stationed in Louisiana for a couple of years, we already had a number of tourist type plantations visited. Boone Hall and the Tea plantation put a different twist on the beautiful plantation theme.

Boone Hall is a working plantation in that they actually use their fields for growing produce that is sold to the public as well as a demonstration cotton field. We arrived after about a one minute drive - how convenient is that - paid our entrance fee and obtained a time for the house tour, a tour that was ok but not much more. The house is not particularly old, but it does have some interesting furniture and artifacts. They also have an enclosed butterfly garden that we looked forward to seeing, but it only had at most a dozen butterflys of what seemed to be only one species. So far it sounds that our impressions of Boone hall are negative. Not so. There is much to learn at the plantation. First, after visiting the house, we headed over to a row of preserved slave quarters. These are made of brick and housed the more "important" slaves such as those with special skills such as carpentry and those who worked in the house. Each of the 9 small slave quarter buildings had a display with recorded narrative of elements illustrating a slave's life and of the Gullah culture. Since we were interested in Gullah sweetgrass basketware, we particularly enjoyed learning from one display of historical basket designs. There was also a woman who was making baskets and we watched her work, asked questions and learned some more about the technique and background of the craft. The absolute highlight of the plantation visit was a 1/2 hour presentation of Gullah (apparantly a shortened form of Angola the ancestral home of most Gullahs - the slaves from there being more valued than from other places because of their knowledge of rice cultivation)culture. The presenter was Jackie, and she was brilliant. Even if the plantation had nothing else to offer, Jackie's presentation was more than worth the price of admission.

After about 3 hours at Boone Hall we headed out to the Tea Plantation, about a 45 minute drive. This is the only Tea Plantation in North America although the growing conditions for tea are ideal in SC. Admission is free, but it costs $12 per person if you want to take the tour - we did and it was well worthwhile - I recommend it. If you do not want to spring for the 12 bucks you can still see the fields as you drive in, the processing plant with explanatory signs on the equipment and see a recorded presentation. And of course there is the gift shop that sells their product and tea related items. We learned a lot about tea there such as the differences between the flushes (times of picking of the leaves)the first flush that occurs after the plant has started to grow again after its winter dormancy and is the most flavorful, in least supply, and thus the most expensive. For trivia buffs we learned that most tea in the US is imported from Argentina (who knew?)and is primarily used for iced tea - that makes up for 85% of tea consumption in the good old USofA. They have free samples of their various tea types - first flush, other flushes, green, green mint, and peach and rasberry flavored. No artificial flavors are used. We tried them before we took the tour and knew what first flush meant and we both remarked how delicious the first flush tea was. We certainly would not waste it making iced tea though. We brought lots of tea home - it was that good. The Tea is branded "American Classic" and is available locally and through the plantation's website. The first flush may be sold out already for this year.

On the way back, we stopped to see the "Angel Oak" which is unbelievably huge covering a lot of ground - I will post photos of that and of the trip as soon as I get aroung to uploading and sorting them out. If you go out to the
tea plantation, be sure to take that very brief detour and see the Angel Oak. There was a woman selling baskets near the oak and we bought a nice small one, mostly as insurance against not having the time to buy one on RT. 17 since we would be leaving early the next morning and were concerned the stands would not yet be open.

Dinner was at a very nice restaurant called the Waterside (it was) in Mount Pleasant on the way to Sullivan's Island. I had, what else, shrimp and grits. DW had, what else, flounder. She has turned into a flounder fiend. The S&G was different variation here than at Blossom's in that it had what seemed to be some sort of sweet relish as a topping and less pepper. Still, it was wonderful.

One last night at the B&B and one last tasty breakfast and we were off to Topsail Island with a stop in Georgetown to see the historic area. We had been told that a fellow named Elija Ford makes excellent baskets and to seek out his stand, but it was not yet open. However, the stand next to his was, run by a very pleasant woman named Sarah and we bought another basket from her in an interesting oval within a rectangle design.

Next: Historic Georgetown and beyond.
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Old Jun 24th, 2011, 02:06 PM
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That is beautiful. Thank you for catching the essence of Boone Hall. I see many reviews that are negative because people think for some reason the houses should look like Tara. Duh. They were burned by um, those during the Recent Unpleasantness. I would add that Boone Hall has an amazing collection of antique roses. Hope they were blooming when you were there. And the Slave Quarters and Gullah History experts and, like you said, worth the admission price.

Are you sure you didn't go to Water's Edge? On Shem Creek? Very near my house. Shem Creek is so nice in the evening. Did you see dolphins?

Elijah is famous. Sorry you missed him, but they're all nice people. Waiting for the next installment. Did you have to drive through Myrtle? Ouch.
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Old Jun 24th, 2011, 02:37 PM
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Yes, that was it, Water's Edge on Shem creek. I was debating when writing whether it was "edge" or "side." I chose wrong. Nice place though. So that is Old Mt. Pleasant? We went there because the groom at the wedding told to try one of the restaurants along Shem creek and one can't go wrong. It really was very nice there and we watched a boat that had just come in and they were filleting the catch to the joy of pelicans who suddenly appeared for the feast. No dolphins though. Since I don't recognize "Myrtle" I guess we didn't drive through it or there. Why ouch?
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Old Jun 24th, 2011, 03:39 PM
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Yes. After you left, to drive to Sullivans you probably went left at that fork in the road. Old Mt P is to the right of Coleman Blvd., which you took to Sullivans. Be happy those pelicans did not fly over your head. EEWWW.

Myrtle Beach is a large, um, place. I guess you didn't drive through up 17 or you'd know it. How did you make your way from Georgetown to Topsail? *sigh* I guess I'll have to wait for the next installment.
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Old Jun 24th, 2011, 05:51 PM
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Oh! That Myrtle. Yes we did drive through on Rt 17 and from what we saw, we just kept on going. Nothing there that would appeal to us. Quite the opposite in fact.
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Old Jun 24th, 2011, 06:00 PM
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No kidding. The beach is beautiful but the people fum off are the worst!
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Old Jun 25th, 2011, 08:38 AM
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Myrtle Beach is just not our type of place - we prefer more laid back and less built up places. Topsail was perfect.

A few final thoughts on Charleston. This is one of the cities that should be on everyone's must visit list. It has everything. It is historic, has great architecture, lots of fine restaurants with some of the best seafood you will ever find, a vibrant arts scene, interesting and beautiful places to visit nearby, friendly people, lots to do, good shopping and is very tourist friendly as well without being over the top - it blends its tourism and everyday life very well. We did far more in a few days than described in this TR including a very pleasant sail boat cruise in local waters.

On to Georgetown - no not the one in DC. A quick drive up 17 will get you there but if you stay on 17 you will see nothing. Hang a right after the railroad tracks and you will be going toward the historic center. It is a very worthwhile diversion driving up the coast and I thank a fodorite for suggesting we visit. We did not spend very long there, but there is a one hour tour that we took of the historic area. It combined the best qualities of a tour - very informative and inexpensive. Since the historic area is not all that big, it covered pretty much everything. Georgetown has a plethora of buildings and homes that predate the civil war and revolution. They are all well marked. It also has an interesting Main street with some very nice looking shops and bookstores, not to mention restaurants. If we returned, we would probably stay at a B&B we saw on the tour whose building dates back to the 18th century.

Next: On to Topsail Island - again, thanks to the fodorite who suggested this place.
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Old Jun 25th, 2011, 09:59 AM
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I think I can take credit for that, and I do so hope you also went to the historic district of Pawley's Island. But Georgetown is a lovely little place with wonderful homes/architecture. Glad you enjoyed it.
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Old Jun 26th, 2011, 07:07 PM
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Gretchen, yes you can take credit for that suggestion and it was a fine one. We would never have thought to stop there otherwise. We never did get to Pawley's Island - perhaps next time.

GeorgeW, thank you as well for your suggestion of Topsail Island. It was almost perfect for us - it could not have been more of a contrast to Myrtle Beach -and we stayed a few days.

Topsail Island is divided into three beach areas, to the north is North Topsail Beach, Central is Surf City, and the southern part of the island is Topsail Beach. All three are quiet, laid back, with clean white beaches. There are also long fishing piers at Surf City and Topsail Beach. I do not know if there is one at NTB. We stayed at a small family run place called the Island Inn in Surf City. The beach front has private residences for the most part. The Island Inn was located just on the other side of the dune with a beach entrance just a few steps away - no water view though. The rooms there are basic, but clean and do have a fridge, microwave and coffee maker which were handy. Each room has its own picnic table outside of the door and there is a pool and outside shower to wash sand off. It is a very pleasant and convenient place to stay.

Surf City is the most built up of the 3 beaches but that is not saying much at all. Within short walking distance of the Inn are a Deli that was excellent for breakfast, bakery, frozen treat shop I(if you are ever there, try the ginger cream ice pop), spa, and a beach shop. A little further, but still an easy walk is a coffee shop and a few other stores. An advantage to staying in Surf City is that since the island has a slight curve and Surf City is at the highest point - that is all relative- it also has the most beach at high tide and suffers the least from erosion. The quietest area of all appears to be Topsail Beach, but the entire island as mentioned is quiet.

We found the restaurants we sampled to be quite good but not outstanding. Breakfast was at the deli, lunch was wherever we happened to be - one lunch was at Daddy Mac and it was good with a great view of the ocean and pier. We had seafood at every meal except breakfast and of course it was always fresh. The pier at Surf City is also a very nice place for an evening stroll and people fishing there seemed to be doing well. There is also quite a few people out surf fishing in the evenings too. Also, there is a local NC brand of ice cream sold in in the area that is most excellent. I can't think of the name - I believe it begins with an "M" perhaps some North Carolinians can help identify it because it is worth seeking out.

Next: On to Washington, NC and some pleasant surprises.
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Old Jun 26th, 2011, 07:31 PM
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Mayfield.
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Old Jun 26th, 2011, 07:52 PM
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Yes, that's it. Their no sugar added ice cream is one of the few of the type that taste like a real quality ice cream. Not artificial tasting at all. Try the no sugar added Moose tracks flavor.
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Old Jun 26th, 2011, 08:08 PM
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Oh don't think you are ahead of me! Moosetracks is a staple in my humble home.

Topsail got knocked back in a hurricane, maybe Bertha? And they made it back right. I haven't been there since i was a kid, but it's wonderful. When people say they want an uncrowded beach, Topsail is always my rec. But then they want to ask stuff like "What will we do?" I say"How about nothing? Sit on the beach? Read a &%^$ book?"
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Old Jun 27th, 2011, 04:03 AM
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Sue, isn't it interesting that people who grow up not going to the beach all the time wonder "what to do". Even our kids when little "got the picture". You go to the beach, play, eat lunch, rest a little to get out of the sun (and give mom and dad some breathing time), read, go back out to the beach. Oh, and there was always some putt putt time.
We took our family back to Ocean Isle a couple of years ago while our condo was being repaired and as much as I decry the extreme development of that island, the one thing the Williamsons did right was keep commercial development off the beach. It is exactly as it was at its midline as it was 30 years ago!!
And when we go to the beach now with the grown kids, and their kids, it is still the same--a bit more shopping thrown in!!
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