CAJUN region, plus NEW ORLEANS

Old Dec 1st, 2016, 01:03 PM
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CAJUN region, plus NEW ORLEANS

I hope to take 5 or 6 nights late this winter (thinking early March) to visit Louisiana. I am thinking of flying to New Orleans from Ft. Lauderdale on a Monday or Tuesday. I could then spend 3 or 4 nights in the city. On Friday I would rent a car and drive the approximately three hours to a base in the Cajun country. It looks as if there are nice B&Bs in both Rayne and Eunice.

Friday night I was thinking of trying the crawfish at Hawk's, not far from Rayne.
Saturday morning we could drive to Mamou and take in the scene at Fred's Lounge.
Saturday night might be the show at Liberty Theatre in Eunice and then DI's for dinner and music. Or maybe skip Liberty Theatre.

I realize that these places are pretty obvious, just wanted to check here if anyone thought I was on the wrong track or had other ideas. Eunice seems a bit more convenient but the B&B in Rayne might be nicer. Worst comes to wrost, we could always stay in one of the chaiin motels near Eunice.

Sunday we would drive to the airport, drop the car and fly back to FLL.


The time in New Orleans would be devoted mostly to wandering around during the day and having dinner at night. I know it will be imporrislbe for me to choose from so many amazing places to eat, but I have to try!

Also, where should I stay in NOLA? French Quarter......not so sure about staying in FQ as my impression is that it is somewhat tacky. Yes, big generalization and I am probably all off base and hope not to offend anyone by that comment. Windsor Court and Roosevelt are both Virtuoso..anything else ????? I like the idea of a heated pool that I can swim in but that is not critical. Price and location matter, probably not in that order. I've read previous threads here on this but can't get a handle on what these neighborhoods are like. We don't mind walking around a lot and would be ok with UBER or taxi at night if necessary.

Restaurants I should probably wait to discuss since that is such a big topic; Peche or Cochon for sure; Shaya (??); Petit Grocery (??);; Coquette; Acme Oyster House; Dookie Chase (RIP); Willa Mae's; Herbsaint, I could go on and on.....but how to narrow down the list?
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Old Dec 1st, 2016, 01:32 PM
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Eks

We did that last year. We went to Hawk's and Fred's. They were both worth it. We stayed at Maison d'Memoire which was well-done if you do not mind messages from God at the bottom of your breakfast menu.

Best meal we had in LOLA was Mr. B's Bistro and the beignets were as good as ever while those at Morning Call were not very good.
________________

here is the trip report in its entirety.

Louisiana March 2015

It seems everybody in Louisiana has at least two names. Sometimes they give it to themselves, sometimes others confer it upon them, sometimes no one remembers how the extra name arose, and sometimes they earn it. At times it just a double sounding name such as grandparents maybe be Mawmaw and Pawpaw. It is not a matter of subterfuge or fraud, it is just a grand tradition.

Louisiana is the fifth fattest state, but the other four, must like to send their citizens to New Orleans for vacation. It is rare to be overweight but still be able to be called slim. The cuisine of Louisiana is well known for its muffulettas, po’ boys, Étouffée, gumbo, BBQ shrimp, and beignets, among other things. The best meal we had in NOLA was at Mr.B’s Bistro. We devoured BBQ shrimp and restaurant cured pork belly in fig preserve, crispy on the top and rich on the inside. That was a prize. There are few tourist destinations that live up to their reputation but Café du Monde’s beignets must be three of them, because that is how much is in one serving. Puffy and fried with enough powered sugar to make the neatest dinner look like a coke addict. We also tried Morning Call in City Park which was a distant second. For po’ boys we went to Johnny’s which were fine but not exceptional. We could not find an inexpensive breakfast place.

For music we went to the Maple Leaf Bar on Oak Street and heard the Rebirth Brass Band. It is an airless cavern where even when the temperature is in the low 70’s outside, the crowd sweats. The group was somewhat of a disappointment, despite their reputation as their sound varied little and the musicianship was just above average. The following evening we went to Irvin Mayfield in his bar in the Royal Sonesta. Great, great musicianship, versatile performers, amid a great sense of fun. His trombone player Michael Watson has a wry sense of humor and wry sense of music. On sax was Derek Douget who played great riffs with the cleanest of notes, sensational. No matter how much fun they had with each other, the audience, and their instruments, it was all in the service of the music. Mayfield is usually there on Wednesday nights. We stayed at the venerable Hotel Monteleone which more old than old-fashioned

We then went to Cajun Country where we stayed at Maison D'Memoire B&B Cottages in Rayne, LA. Our cottage was an old lumberyard office which was now renovated into three light and airy rooms. The owners were very cordial and my only complaint was their crosses everywhere and the breakfast menu had an inspirational message from God. The food was good but not that good. In Cajun country even the Jews and Muslims are Catholic.

The first night we were directed to some gravel back road for some crayfish boil at Hawk’s. It was $30 for four pounds. While my wife and I shared that amount, people were scarfing down the four pounds by themselves, old ladies and kids. They were fabulous, even though they dripped down my glasses and I had to shampoo later. This is the type of place that is the middle of nowhere in the middle nowhere.

The following morning we danced on the radio at Fred’s Lounge in Mamou, LA. For 60 years they have broadcasted music from Fred’s on Saturdays where you are not supposed to dance and it is OK to drink at 9 AM. It was like Garrison Keillor in Creole. The drummer of the band called the Cajun Tradition was the wife of the concertina player and her job was to hold the beat and never smile. There is an economy of effort for Cajun musicians especially the guitar players, who are not expected to move except as their fingers and wrists require. The fiddle player was the fourth generation of some other famous fiddle players and later the eighty something year old divorced wife of Fred, and herself the former owner, sang and led a Cajun Conga line. She could not sing and the line was not supposed to be straight. We danced two dances, something like a hard shell Cajun crab lindy. It was a wonderful time.

That night we went to Prejeans where there is music and is supposed to be the best food in the area. The musicians seemed bored and the food was fine. I had fried green tomatoes and boudin balls which are fried rice balls with crayfish. My wife had an Étouffée. Needless to say the portions were enormous and it looked like mostly a local crowd. We did enjoy their bread pudding which had every sweet ingredient known to man. The last night in Cajun Country we went to the wrong Frog City restaurant. There are three non-chain restaurants in Rayne and two are called Frog City. Rayne claims to be the frog capital of the world but we did not bother to count them. We intended to go to the fancier Frog City but would up at the truck stop version, which was probably more satisfying and a hell of lot cheaper. We also went on a swamp tour with Bob. There were people from all over world in our boat including two couples from four different countries in South America and Europe. Bob had a canned and corny spiel but was knowledgeable and for 20 bucks each we spent two hours navigating the bayou. We saw the obligatory huge gator stapled to a floating branch, egrets, and osprey.

Then it was off to Baton Rouge, Mandeville, Covington, and Kenner to visit relatives, a few we had never met. They were all gracious and welcoming. We stayed at a guest house in Mandeville, where I am sure the owner has many tales to tell, if he could just remember them. Mandeville by the lake is quirky suburban area just over the Ponchartrain Causeway with pastel colored houses and mansions many raised at least 8 feet above the ground in an anticipation of the next Katrina. There are some restaurants whose menus are better than their execution but you may consider the area if you do not mind driving 24 miles over the causeway back to NOLA for it makes for a very different type of stay.

We were taken to Ponchartrain Po’ Boy. If there is such a thing as politically incorrect restaurant this would be it, fried food, piled high. The fried chicken was particularly wonderful. The people at the next table ate one conical order of onion rings the size of a teepee. We also went to Harbor Seafood in Kenner, where I am sure we were the only ones not from the area. They are attached to a seafood market where everything was freshly prepared and most reasonably priced. We spent our last day visiting St Louis I and St Louis III paying our respects to my wife’s departed grandparents, cousins, aunts, and uncles, none of them Marie Leveau. Once again the familiar names we knew them by, were not the names etched on the crypts.

http://www.pontchartrainpoboys.com/
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Old Dec 1st, 2016, 01:33 PM
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For cajun country: google Ed Orgeron and listen to his press conferences. That'll get you ready to translate to an English equivalent . . .

>

Wherever is convenient to where you want to wander around. And yeah, that's likely going to be in or near the FQ (or nearer the river in the CBD) than you think. Your overall impression of the FQ is . . . superficial.
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Old Dec 1st, 2016, 01:47 PM
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We stayed at the Monteleone. It might have been nice many years ago. Do not stay in the Quarter, you will not enjoy it.
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Old Dec 1st, 2016, 02:00 PM
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We had a great dinner at L'Revolucion, a very good dinner at Domenica (same owner as Shaya, which I've heard is great), and an excellent breakfast at Willa Jean, all in April of this year.
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Old Dec 1st, 2016, 04:40 PM
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Thanks, all! And special thanks for the ink to your report, IMD. It is a riot and made me laugh out loud. Like that sense of humor.

I wondered if that B&B was the place you stayed. It looks nice online, and is close to Hawk's (I do remember your separate report on Hawk's, which is where I first heard the name--I love the visual of the crawfish juice dribbling down your glasses..no doubt the same will happen to me. Oh, just remembered: The partner does not eat "things with shells" Have to substitute a burger, or some boudin!. And thank you for your insight into a good NO location for me.

The only slight concern on that B&B is that, while it is near to Hawk's, it would mean a drive in the morning (not bad) to get to Fred's in Mamou, a drive back too the B&B, I imagine, and then a drive after dark back to Eunice for the Liberty and then to the Cajun dance place near there.

SF: Willa Jean sounds great, as does Domenica. And Susan Spicer has a new place that justg happened to be hit by a car a week or so ago (I've never been to Bayona, or any of the other restaurants save for Antoine's, where I ate in the 70s, during my one and only (very brief) visit to NOLA.)
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Old Dec 1st, 2016, 07:23 PM
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Thanks, Ecks. We made the drive from the B & B to Fred's and it was time consuming.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 02:13 AM
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I agree with Russ on staying nearer the Quarter.

You are going to want to go back to your room during the day, if only to sleep off meals, and anything out near the Roosevelt is going to feel like it is a long way off, especially if it rains.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 03:33 AM
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I posted detailed info on NOLA food experiences from a few years ago in a trip report which can be found via search. In brief, had especially enjoyable food experiences at Acme Oyster, Felix's Restaurant and Oyster Bar, Galatoire's, Arnaud's, K-Paul's, Mr. B's, Commander's Palace, Irene's, Mandina's, Lil' Dizzy's, Liuzza's by the Track, Central Grocery, Johnny's Po-Boys, Angelo Brocato, and Cafe du Monde.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 03:43 AM
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And agreed that staying in the French Quarter is ideal, preferably within a rectangle bounded by Canal, Bourbon, Ursulines, and Decatur.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 07:59 AM
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Avery Island is not to be missed. Home of McIlhenny Tabasco, you can get a factory tour and the island is a nature sanctuary.
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 12:01 PM
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I'd love to visit Avery Island, but it's located pretty far off the route I thought we would take.

What are your opinions of the location of the Windsor Court Hotel? (Fifteen-minute walk to Preservation Hall and not far from Peche, which is on my to-go lisit for dinner)

What exactly do you all do in the French Quarter during the day besides wander around and stop for snacks/lunch? (Yes, need to do lots of reading, but just like to get a general idea).
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 01:37 PM
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I thought the Tabasco Factory tour was just ok - I wouldn't go out of my way to see it. But the gardens on Avery Island are great. I am not sure how they'd be in winter though - we went in June and they were in full bloom and just lovely.

For New Orleans, my advice is definitely to stay in the FQ. A lot of people think that Bourbon Street is representative of the entire FQ, but it is really just a few blocks of Bourbon Street that are tacky. The rest of the FQ is a nice, historic neighborhood with tons of character. Close to Canal street, you've got a lot of larger buildings and some bigger hotels, but within about 5 blocks from Canal, it gets very residential. I am sure you will be pleasantly surprised. The Windsor Court Hotel is in the Central Business Dist, next to the FQ, and that location is fine, but I'd still opt for something IN the FQ.

As for what to do in the FQ:

* Wandering around will take up more of your time than you might initially imagine - its fun to poke around the small streets.
* Jackson Square is fun - lots of artists and street musicians set up there.
* If you are interested in history and culture, there are various walking and bike tours you can take
* I like to go up on the levy and watch the boat traffic
* There are several historic houses that you can tour
* St Louis cathedral is beautiful.
* Louisana State Museum is housed in the Cabildo and Presbytere - the buildings on either side of the St Louis Cathedral
* The aquarium and IMAX are also next to the FQ
* You can take the ferry across the river for some neat views of New Orleans
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Old Dec 2nd, 2016, 05:32 PM
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Excellent suggestions from november_moon. Can only add a few other FQ attractions: the Old Ursuline Convent, Historic New Orleans Collection, New Orleans Pharmacy Museum, Old US Mint. St. Louis #1 Cemetery is close by, but should be seen as part of an organized tour.

There are of course several excellent non-FQ attractions such as the WW2 Museum, New Orleans Museum of Art (for me, the best art museum in the South), Ogden Museum of Southern Art, Audubon Zoo, and various cemeteries and historic homes.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2016, 06:03 AM
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Thanks for the clarification about the FQ. I thought it was (plese forgive my ignorance) Duvall St. in Key West, with lots of tacky souvenier shops and bars and crowds wandering around with drinks. (not that I mind about the drinks but, still, you get my point). I was confusing Bourbon Street with the entire FQ.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2016, 02:15 PM
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I stayed at the Omni a couple years ago for a conference and was concerned about being right in the quarter.....but it was great! Very convenient for dinner, wandering around the quarter, shopping, etc. It's an old hotel and there were definitely no noise issues (although the rooms were on the smaller side).
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Old Dec 6th, 2016, 08:30 AM
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>

And that's why I said your understanding was superficial, ditto for IDH.
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Old Dec 16th, 2016, 09:18 AM
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For eating in New Orleans, I like Couchon, Galatoire's, Domenica and Bayona. A visit to Avery Island is interesting. St. Martinsville and Breaux Bridge are also worth a stop too.
Not all Cajuns speak like Ed Ogeron either. I have Cajun inlaws - I know.
There are so many wonderful restaurants that is hard to choose. Don't miss Café du Monde and for sightseeing, go to the Historic New Orleans Collection on Royal Street. They have a great gift shop and there is a historic exhibit of interest.
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Old Dec 16th, 2016, 09:59 AM
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cherie - I went to the Historic New Orleans Collection on Royal for the first time during my last trip in October - they have a really great exhibit, definitely recommended. I was just walking by with a colleague and we saw it and went in - 2 hours later, we were still there.
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Old Dec 16th, 2016, 04:14 PM
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Great posts and info. Thanks all.
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