For those of you who want a more tropical option when visiting San Diego - Cabo San Lucas is a short - two hour flight from here.
We went there 15 years ago - and loved it - but then with trips to Hawaii and seeing my sister and her family in Costa Rica/Nicaragua - just didn't get back until last week. The people are still genuinely friendly - and it's very safe - and reasonable - without any Narco dealers and the attendant problems.
And talk about a surprise: How about seeing a big Whale Shark just inches below your fins when getting back on your sborkel boat? Holy Moly Pancho!!!!!
And away we gooooooooooooooooooo....
Well, this Cabo trip started off with one of the best snorkeling days ever.
I had driven up from Cabo - an hour or so to the East Cape - and toured a few of the fishing resorts. I first stopped by to say hello to the very friendly John Ireland at Rancho Leonaro Resort (John frequently gives fishing reports on Lets Talk Hookup/AM 1090 - with hosts "Pelican" Pete Gray and "Rock Cod" Rick Maxa http://www.hookup1090.com/ , ) - and also briefly walked around Rancho Buena Vista and Buena Vista resorts - and then drove into the fairly good size town of Los Barilles where there are a couple of Van Wormer resorts.
Hey - I would be happy to spend time at any one of them.
Then continued on and passed by Punta Colorado (which was closed for renovation) on the way down to Cabo Pulmo - and thus - arrived a little late to get ready for the scuba dive.
But also had a backup option - and was still in time for the snorkel trip - which with four stops - vs. two tank dives while diving - really turned out better. http://www.cabopulmo.com/blog-cabo-pulmo-baja-sur-california/bid/125640/Snorkeling-Cabo-Pulmo
There were seven of us - two ex-pat couples from Colorado now living in Los Barilles, two sisters and moi - and our Captain had been on sport fishing boats for 15 years out of Cabo - but was transitioning to snorkeling/dive boats from Cabo Pulmo as it was closer to his home. As you probably know - Cabo Pulmo has a big reef offshore and is a reserve (no fishing allowed) - where the University of California has a research station.
Our first stop was nice - with some good fish below - and I think it served as a sort of check-out for the
Captain who wanted to see that everybody was at ease in the water, which we were.
For the second stop - one of the guys from Los Barilles said he was going to stay on board to warm up a little (he was very trim/no body fat - but it was very temperate for this Polar Bear) while the rest of us tumbled over the side for some great snorkeling - including seeing Parrot fish reflect their colors with the sunlight piercing down to 10 feet or so.
On these boats - which are over 30 feet long - but only have a little ladder you climb up at the stern - which isn't the widest - and also since my rental boots were too big - I kept stepping on myself up the ladder.
Ergo - while heading back to board after this second stop - I kept up my pace so my momentum could help propel me up the three little steps.
As I was taking off my mask - and getting ready to toss it to the Captain - both guys were frantically pointing over the side. Well, as I looked down to unhitch a fin - just a few inches away - I saw the BIGGEST - WIDEST MOUTH I had ever seen up close and personal - at least FIVE FEET ACROSS - OPEN ABOUT A FOOT - AND TWO HUGE EYES LOOKING UP AT ME. http://tinyurl.com/aqxcrr7
Hey - it could have swallowed any two of us without any problemo!!!
Now I have dove with 22 foot Mana Rays off the coast of Costa Rica - but hey dos - I was expecting that - not just looking down and suddenly seeing a mouth that could easily have just sucked you in!!!!!!
And while I had heard Whale Sharks are friendly - and not to be worried - this guy looked very curious - and maybe I had attracted his interest by paddling quickly back to the boat - and/or my flippers might have touched/kicked his nose, but in any event - I was trying furiously to get off the other fin while the guys in the boat were yelling - don't move so fast!!!!
Then the rational part of the brain kicked in saying - yes, you don't want to resemble a fish in trouble or some such - so I more calmly took off the fin and zipped up the ladder - only to look back at a 25 foot plus behemoth - casually swimming away toward the other snorkelers. (Note - these fish can get up to over 40 feet long).
We yelled to the others to swim in slowly and get on board - and they all did except one of the sisters - who had her head/ears below the water line still looking at the sights.
All of a sudden - just like out of the movie JAWS - there was a shark fin circling her and I thought - OMG - that's a shark closing in - and then remembered - Hey - it's a Whale shark - but it still looked very ominous.
It actually bumped her a bit - she called it a love tap - and she came back on board without incident - yet DANG: I will never forget looking down at that mouth - a mere inches below my feet.
Yes, they are peaceful, but if for some reason he had just out of curiosity clamped down on one of my feet/ankles/leg - it could have caused some damage - to say the least - and ruined the rest of the week.
More about fishing below this pic/info and even though this lovely underwater photographer was asking me to go back in and pose with the Whale Shark - I politely declined:
"The whale shark (Rhincodon typus) is the largest fish in the world; with its vast size it resembles the whales from which its common name is derived. The head is flattened and the wide mouth, positioned at the tip of the snout, stretches almost as wide as the body. The dorsal fin is particularly large and the tail has a half-moon shape. The patterning of the body is very distinctive with its dark greyish-blue colour on the back and sides, and array of pale yellow blotches; the undersurface is pale (5). Stout ridges travel the length of the body, ending at the tail shaft (6). Five massive gill slits occur on the side of the head and within these there is a sieve like structure of cartilage (5). Curiously, the mouth contains around 300 tiny teeth although the function of these is unknown (6). "
[Unable to display image]
The next two snorkeling stops were also great - the third with Sea Lions cruising by - four of them in formation like the Blue Angels - and with one little flip of their fins - they would just glide on about another 30 feet or so.
Note: While Sea Lions are also friendly - the do have fairly long and sharp teeth - so don't try to pet them.
The last stop was with two big schools of small sardines (aka bait balls) - one being inch and a half size and the other about 3to 4 inch size - and all of a sudden - the smaller size school parted like a huge cannon ball had been shot through it - and sure enough - cruising along the bottom - were some foot and a half size yellowtail - which of course, like to feast on these small critters.
Well, the rest of the week was great - and Cabo is such a beautiful, warm. sun splashed paradise - even though I had really forgotten about it since the first trip there about 15 years ago when my charter/boat caught a 300 lb Blue Marlin.
This time - despite the best efforts of my grade school buddy - John Enright and his cousin Dave - who routinely catch big fish - we dutifully went out three days in a row - but only caught some 20 to 25 pound - nice grade Dorado (Mahi). On the plus side - did bring home some 40+ pounds of fish - but alas - no Marlin or Big Tuna. (Did catch a small - 12 lb yellowfin - which yielded some Sashimi grade Ahi.
Will have a couple fishing pics later - but that's it for now.
Cabo Snorkeling/Diving: Great option from San Diego
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Hey Tom- I am just back from Los Barilles too - I might have been there a week before you. Flight attendant friend flew me down using one of her passes and she and SO have a house there. It was a great trip. We did do some snorkeling off the beach at Punta Pescadera and a couple of other places but did not see anything like a whale shark. Yikes- I might have had a heart attack.
Also went riding the arroyos on their quads- that was fun-
Maybe your friends who live there and my friends are neighbors- its not a very big place.
My friends live in mostly an expat community on the road to Punta Pescadera
I will tell them your story of the whale shark for sure-
Yo Sunbum. Glad you had a good time.
I was just amazed when driving up the dirt road from the Rancho Leonaro resort to Los Barilles - that it's such a big town with a couple? of mid-rize hotels. Never expected that.
The two great couples I dove with are Carline (sp? - "Car lean") who is a master swimmer in great shape - and her husband - who are both? in real estate - and Skip and his wife - who are in Solar. They came - or at least one of them - from Carbondale, Colo - by Aspen.
Los Barilles has about what - 3,000 people there? - so maybe they do know each other?
My friends live in the Buenos Aires division of Los Barriles- they are from Eugene Or.
It was nice to see vehicles there flying U of O "Duck" flags - we are everywhere!
Yes Los Barilles does have a couple of hotels, an RV park and campground- I was happy to have a nice house to stay in. Hope I they thought I was a good guest and they will invite me back.
LOL. Go Ducks. I hope they can go undefeated and them are in the National Championship game.
Also posted this on the Cabo/Mexico page - fyi.
The first two days I stayed at the Hilton (great infinity pool and nice beach but I didn't get to the beach and only spent 5 minutes in the pool) - and it was great. The next week I was with a friend at their place at the Cabo Country Club, being renamed the Los Cabos Golf Resort - behind the Cabo WalMart.
The road you take is the main road that goes on past the airport - north toward/to La Paz (Hi way 1 - but google away for Cabo maps) - and then about 40? miles past the airport - you take the road east/toward the Sea of Cortez (it was marked as I recall) and then on down to Cabo Pulmo - the last few miles being dirt road but it's in fairly good condition down to Cabo Pulmo. From there - the dirt road back to Cabo gets pretty rough - or so they told me - so I doubled back the way I came.
If you want a fun place to go eat - the Roadhouse (not part of a chain) has very good steaks/food - (close to/behind Home Depot?) - and also is a veritable museum to fishing/diving. It's also called Lattitude 22 - No bad days. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g152515-d607616-Reviews-Latitude_22_Ocean_View_Roadhouse_Bar-Cabo_San_Lucas_Los_Cabos_Baja_California.html
Very fun to see the huge Marlins and other fish that are mounted around the restaurant, and all the great pics - and they have a funny guy doing the entertainment.
And in the Marina/harbor - we loved taking our freshly caught Dorado/Mahi Mahi to Alexander's, where they cooked it a couple of ways (with a very nice plate presentation/rice/vegetables, etc for only $10) - with coconut crust (like cocoanut shrimp - just delicious) and sauteed with butter garlic, and they could also probably do blackened if you asked, which we had at another place - Eco - which was good but not as good as Alexander's. They had several sauces too - including a to die for Mango sauce.
And for the best view perhaps in Cabo - go to the rooftop bar at the Cabo Villas - Baja Brewing - which is fantastic. It's just across from Mendano beach - by all the happening places on the beach. http://www.cabovillasbeachresort.com/baja-brewing-company.htm and http://www.cabovillasbeachresort.com/maps-and-directions.htm
More later.
My mouth waters as I read about the fresh Dorado with coconut crust- yum.
Sounds like a great trip. Thanks for the suggestions of places to see in Cabo- Baja Brewing and the Roadhouse sound like places I would like to visit next time I am down there.
Here are some more dining suggestions. As for Maro's Shrimp house - it's relatively new - and my friends that go to Cabo every year wanted to try it (had read about it) - and we asked around - and heard from a local who gave me a ride, and also from a tour guide, and a couple other people (one who owns a Sports Fishing Fleet) that it's very good and reasonable.
It's close to downtown - toward the Solmar Hotel.
And in the center of town - for authentic Mexican Food/reasonably priced - is Tres Gallos (Three Roosters) which the head valet at the Hilton told me was very good and I asked others and received other good reviews.
On our trip 15 years ago - we went to the Trailer Park (make sure you get the older one) which still gets good feedback - and we also had fun at Romeo & Juliet's (Romantic, Italian, etc) - but didn't hit either one this time, but you can check the feedback on this page.
And walking around the harbor (did that 4 times - 3 after returning from fishing and one other time to find the Bisbee Office) - it was fun to see the live lobsters in a wheelbarrow type tank at Lorenzillo's
- which looked good (and pricey?) - but no idea how good it is.
We also hiked along Mendano beach one day and stopped at one of the crazy beach bars - Billiygans - after they offered us a free Margarita - and then ordered a couple beers - 2 for 1 at $5 total. Had a canopy for shade and was sort of fun to see the young and crazy holding forth, and my younger friend was out there - doing the Macarana for another free drink. He also was chatting up some of the young ladies - while I had fun watching him liven things up a bit.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g152515-Cabo_San_Lucas_Los_Cabos_Baja_California.html
We were in Cabo San Lucas last spring and we also enjoyed it. We didn't do any diving, but would do so if we returned. It is definitely a place to go if you enjoy fishing, diving, and snorkeling. It's not a great place to go to relax on the beach and swim in the waves.
nana: People were swimming in the ocean when I was just there. Pretty clear and calm and people in swim suits were jet skiing all over, etc.
Water temp was in low 80's.
Also recommended would be a trip up to Todos Santos - the artist colony on the Pacific side - about an hour away from Cabo. The venerable Hotel California (some think the theme for the Eagles great song - Hotel California) as a great restaurant - according to my friends I was just with in Cabo.
No idea that when we were fishing at Cabo last week - if we would have been savy enough to head in with this prize/very rare fish - or stayed out trying to catch Marin?
http://www.sportfishingmag.com/Cabo-300-Pound-Mystery-Fish?cmpid=enews112012&spPodID=030&spMailingID=11098728&spUserID=MzQzOTgwNDQ0OTcS1&spJobID=207182318