Pay the extra $40 and ride the Capitol Limited. The drawback is that it arrives in Cleveland at 3AM.

Somehow, I had imagined Cleveland to be kind of like a smaller version of Toronto--both cities being on Great Lakes, and in a manner of speaking, Toronto seems like it’s just round a big bend and down the road looking at a map. This assumption was my first mistake by the lake, as the two cities are really rather remarkably different… at least to my eyes, which I will get to shortly.

**My second mistake by the lake**

(Skip to the next installment if you’re looking for travel tips to Cleveland: the following is just a gratuitous human interest story.)

So, arriving at Cleveland’s bus terminal at 10:40pm, the first of my worries was soon vanquished, as there were two cabs waiting in front of the station. A $6 cab ride took me to the Brownstone Inn Downtown, one of the few B&Bs I could find centrally-located in Cleveland. It was indeed a lovely brownstone located in front of a grand elm tree in a mostly quiet/deserted area about 20 blocks west of the downtown core on Prospect Avenue.

Since I told the proprietor that I would be arriving at such a late hour, he placed the key in a designated spot for me to pick-up… and *whew* the key was there, just as he said it would be. So, looking forward for some desperately-needed sleep, I turned the key in the lock, pushed the door, and it would not open. I tried turning the key the other way. Push…no success. I thought maybe it was one of those nuance-thingies that can occur with doors, where you have to push the door in a bit or out a bit to get the door open. I try a few of these brainstorm ideas…push push push… the door heaves a bit but does not open. I see a lower lock and a combination and I wonder if perhaps another guest locked those unbeknownst to the proprietor… it’s 11:15pm at this point and feeling guilty but desperate, I ring the doorbell. Wait. No answer. I try the knocker. Wait. No answer. I try fiddling with the lock again with the key; maybe I need to turn the key in the lock a little further than I have been? Fiddle fiddle fiddlesticks!

I’m starting to get desperate now, so I pull out my I-phone to call the B&B owner… alas, my phone says “réseau indisponible” (no network available). I try phoning the proprietor anyway, “call failed” appears. I have a brainstorm that maybe this had to do with my shutting off some settings out of fear of having an exorbitant cell phone bills for Internet roaming charges on my Canadian cell phone while in the States. I fiddle with the settings to reverse these changes, but to no avail; for everything I try, that blasted “réseau” is still “indisponible”! I was at this point cursing my decision to get an I-phone… I could always get a network on my old cell phone. The thought enters my mind, “will I have to sleep on the porch?” This seems an unwise idea in an unfamiliar city. I ring the doorbell again. No answer. Fiddle with lock again. No luck.
Twenty minutes or so after arriving, I decide my only real choice is to walk in the downtown direction where I think just maybe I might have some luck finding a pay phone (at worst, I thought I saw some at the bus station) and perhaps a hotel will have an available room if need be. Vigilant, concerned, tired, feeling a bit like an easy target, but resigned to my fate, I start wheeling my luggage down those deserted streets at night in an unfamiliar city. Possibly foolishly, after two blocks, I feel shy to explain my convoluted situation to 3 African-American women animatedly chatting on a stoop. I pass a few itinerant souls, hope for the best, and they just walk by. I see some boxes ahead with the word “phone” on them; alas, when I reach them however, they are only empty carcasses. A cop car passes by, stops at the light, but drives away before I can solicit help. 15-20 blocks from where I started, I see the Comfort Inn Downtown and breathe a sigh of relief.

I explain my situation to the desk clerk, asking if I could use their phone to call the B&B proprietor and telling him I’ll get a room there if this fails. They make the call, hand the phone to me and alas, I get the answering machine and explain my situation to the proprietor, giving the phone number at the Comfort Inn. In a last ditch attempt, I ask the desk clerk if there is Internet at the hotel I could use… perhaps the proprietor left instructions via e-mail while I was travelling to Cleveland? $5 access fee paid, I check my messages. Nothing. I write the B&B owner, explaining I have the key, tried opening the door but couldn’t, will come tomorrow, but for the time being, I’m exhausted and will spend the night at the Comfort Inn Downtown.

So, I go back to the desk clerk, tell him I’d like to get a room for the night. The desk clerk then tells me to hold just a moment and tells the person on the other line, “I *told* you, I’ve checked each room and there is *no* Daniel Williams staying here for the night!” I say, “*I’m* Daniel Williams!”, speak to the B&B proprietor who said he’ll leave the door unlocked and *RUN* wheeling my luggage behind me to the bed & breakfast.

Mistake by the lake: As it turned out, I was turning the key in most of my attempts counterclockwise and clockwise was the correct way (plus the door sticks a little bit). *Sigh*

*Next Installment: Exploring Downtown Cleveland*

*The Brownstone Inn Downtown*

So, the Brownstone Inn Downtown was built in 1874 and is a lovely home, with wooden banisters, with a delightful array of antiques and portraits from the 19th century. I enjoyed the historical nuances such as the so-called English basement with a lengthy corridor as the “servant’s entrance”. The proprietor Robin had plenty of brochures handy to guide each of his guests in their daily plans and was a fount of knowledge about the history, transit system and activities going on in Cleveland. He cooked a tasty breakfast each morning, varying the egg/meat accompaniment from mushrooms to asparagus to collard greens over the days of my stay.

While the immediate walking vicinity is pretty deserted, for those visiting without their own car, thankfully the “Health Line” (an accordion bus with a designated lane) runs every 5-15 minutes up and down Euclid Avenue and connects two interesting areas of Cleveland: Downtown and University Circle. There are ticket-dispensing machines at each “Health Line” stop, where I would purchase a $5 day pass, which one can use on the “Health Line”, rapid trains (red, blue, green lines) or RTA buses. From the Brownstone Inn, I tended to head over to “Asia Town” for supper, which was about a 10-15 minute walk from the B&B.

*Downtown Cleveland Architecture*

Even coming in by bus from Pittsburgh, I could see that I would be in for a treat architecturally-speaking in Cleveland, with the Tower City Terminal Tower building and the Key Tower in particular beautifully lit up in a multicoloured fashion at night. These skyscrapers were located around Public Square, the hub downtown where the “Health Line” bus meets the free trolleys and the red, blue and green RTA train lines.

Seeing as I was the only one taking pictures of the following, I will state that Cleveland has some much underappreciated architecture, of which I will just name a few examples. The Soldiers and Sailors Monument has a stately granite spire and statues to remember those who fought in the Civil War (with names on walls inside with those who served from the Cleveland area ALONE). The Fountain of Eternal Life, in memory of those who lost their lives in World War 2, is a regal tall bronze statue in a lovely open square. The Old Stone Church has a beautiful interior with a bluish altar area, handsome wooden balconies, stain-glass windows and a wooden ceiling like an upside-down ship. The Free Stamp I thought an endearing piece of pop art. My favourite place architecturally-speaking though was the Arcade, a shopping mall from the 1890s with wrought-iron railings at each level that really took one back… you could almost imagine ladies with crinolines and parasols perusing the elegant shops that once existed there. How things change…sadly, aside from the Hyatt that’s set up shop in a portion of the building, it’s quite deserted with just a few rag-tag businesses setting up house there.

*Demographics of Cleveland*

The “feel” of downtown Cleveland reminded me much more of downtown Baltimore (where I lived from 1999-2002) as it turned out than of Toronto, largely due to a sizeable African-American population (52.5% of the population) that surprised me somewhat in its scale. I ignorantly imagined since Pittsburgh, Minneapolis and Chicago have a smaller (proportionally) African-American population than DC/Baltimore or cities in the South, that as one moved further northwest from Pittsburgh toward Cleveland that numbers would again dwindle. A quick look at Wikipedia would have corrected this misconception, I know… as well as remembering that Motown-home Detroit is not so far away. Anyhow, demographics fascinate me…it made me wonder why Cleveland ended up with a proportionally larger African American population than say, Pittsburgh or Boston (Detroit I’m told was due to the jobs available at one point in the automotive industry).

*Rock and Roll Hall of Fame*

Since this is the sight in 2011 that Cleveland is probably best known for, I didn’t see how I could *not* go. At first, I thought I’d entered a world of celebrity trappings (here’s the outfit David Bowie wore at such-and-such a concert, an original record from a Jerry Lee Lewis album, the guitar played by K.D. Lang, etc…) with the history of rock stars’ rises to fame and commercial success that interest me vaguely at best. However, in one exhibit on the precursors to rock, there were headphones available and interactive screens where you could scroll through the names of a variety of singers/groups. Here, I learned the names of a number of artists I’d never heard of before (Ma Rainey, Elmore James, Howlin’ Wolf, Professor Longhair) whose music I really enjoyed; I know that I certainly never would have even thought to look up their names on youtube. This, along with learning a bit about the history of some bands and seeing the I.M. Pei-designed building with the backdrop of Lake Erie, made me satisfied with my choice to visit the museum.

Oddly enough, as I passed through these expressions of youthful dreams, emotions, rebellion and aspirations as expressed through the vehicle of a variety of types of rock music, I found myself bizarrely sad. Perhaps it’s because my knee was bothering me that day, but I couldn’t help but think about the fleeting nature of youth and how young all those rock stars looked during their time of glory. How today’s young in some cases just perceive these icons now as just *old*. How, despite singing their hearts out against injustices and getting world-wide attention and adulation, certain things don’t change. I also wondered if the museum would be more aptly described as the Rock & Roll and Pop and Soul Hall of Fame; I mean, is Madonna really Rock & Roll? The Supremes? This makes me question if my perception of Rock ‘n Roll is a bit narrow. It’s understandable I suppose given the clientele, but I also found the Hall of Fame a bit English-language centric.

*Ohio City, University Circle and Cleveland Heights to Come*

Daniel, I am enjoying your trip report. We live a half hour from Cleveland and are often there. Thanks for sharing! You're a good writer.

This is great. I have always wanted to go to Cleveland. I'm not sure why but it is on my list. I am looking forward the the remainder of your report.

Great report, and good that you took the bus. I like Cleveland. I hope you will get to Severance Hall and the wonderful art museum in the same neighborhood.

More! (Please?)

I love your trip reports, Daniel. Please continue............

*Asia Town*

If one goes in to Asia Town expecting the chock-a-block restaurants, dim sum, herbal remedies, etc…as that of a New York, Toronto or even Philadelphia, Boston or Montreal Chinatown, one will be in for a surprise. Cleveland’s “Asia Town” is much more spread out, with an odd Asian establishment interspersed with mostly thrift shops, ribs establishments, liquor stores, dollar stores, and Dave’s supermarket frequented more by an African-American clientele. However, this said, I found two gems in the mix, highly enjoying my two meals this past Friday and Saturday evenings in “Asia Town” at Superior Pho and Seoul Hot Pot. You might not expect it with Superior Pho only accessible from the parking lot in a dingy shopping area and Seoul Hot Pot right next to a thrift shop, but they had truly excellent pho and bulgogi (beware the large portions though!), respectively!

*Ohio City *

I’ll bet in your American History class that you never learned there was a “war” between Ohio City (present day inner ring suburb of Cleveland) and Cleveland! Me neither. I thought my B&B proprietor was pulling my leg, but Wikipedia confirms it… something about a bridge siphoning business over to Cleveland so as to miss a mercantile district in Ohio City in the 1830s. Explosives were set by angry Ohio City folk on the bridge and the Cleveland militiamen came in. Ohio City was later annexed by Cleveland.

So, Ohio City & W 25th St. is on the RTA red line, which one can board at Tower City Terminal downtown. This is the location of West Side Market, a bustling place on Saturday filled with meats, pastries, as well as fruit and vegetable stands. I was a little taken aback to see nationwide brands such as Chiquita bananas and Driscoll raspberries at many stands (I know some things don’t grow in northeast Ohio but I was expecting more of a real farmer’s market with local produce), but pleased to see people enjoying themselves. What I enjoyed more about Ohio City were some of the homes and cute local businesses immediately surrounding the West Side Market, such as those over on Jay Street and Bridge Street nearby.

*University Circle/Little Italy/Cleveland Heights*

So, my last two full days, I explored the University Circle area, about 4 miles west of downtown and accessible by either Red Line RTA train or by the electric-hybrid “Health Line” bus. The Euclid Avenue/120th stop by the Case Western Reserve campus in University Circle was within reasonable walking distance of Little Italy and also Coventry Road in the Cleveland Heights area.

My first day was only an afternoon in University Circle, as this was the day I had spent the morning in Ohio City. A few blocks from the red line stop, I was gradually impressed by the mix and modern and stately older architecture on the quite lovely green Case Western campus. A stroll by the Wade Lagoon and a nearby lawn with some lovely statuary and fountains I found quite relaxing and worthwhile. I equally enjoyed meandering along Hessler Road and Court, which has some handsome residences from the early 1900s. The Cleveland Museum of Art was a highlight of my visit to this neighbourhood; I whiled away probably 3 hours, absolutely captivated by their collection of paintings from the Middle Ages to modern times, as well as the more ancient Byzantine, Egyptian, and Greco-Roman, etc…. works. All for the exorbitant price of FREE.

My second day, I returned via the “Health Line” bus to Euclid & 123rd St., from which I explored the Lakeview Cemetery. As a book at my B&B “Cleveland Then & Now” shockingly demonstrates, little remains in downtown Cleveland of the streetscape that a 19th century or even a 1930s era Clevelander would recognize. Parks demolished, favourite stores long gone, even the cathedral has renovated and gone through a series of additions so as to be barely recognizable. This, I think in a way is the beauty of a cemetery; due to its sacrosanct nature, even the most indifferent-to-the-past developers recognize that it’s off-limits. So, at the Lakeview Cemetery, one imagines that the vistas are quite similar to what someone would have seen in the 19th century (well… with probably a few more headstones). The Wade Chapel with the Tiffany stain-glass window was worth a look-see, but the highlight for me was the opulent 180 foot tall mausoleum of James A. Garfield. Many Americans in 2011 I imagine would likely be hard-pressed to name this president let alone know any facts about him (he was shot and died some 80 days later), but I will now remember him always as his mausoleum had one of the best views of the green expanse of Lakeview Cemetery, the buildings in University Circle, as well as the Cleveland skyline and Lake Erie in the distance.

From the cemetery, I briskly walked over to Coventry Road in Cleveland Heights, where a street fair was taking place which included a performer who unbelievably balanced swords on his forehead while simultaneously juggling swords. After a healthy vegetarian meal at Tommy’s, I walked back toward University Circle via Little Italy, a neighbourhood with a red brick paved street, and a number of evidently popular pastry shops and restaurants. I was feeling like I’d overeaten the other days in Asia Town, so did not succumb to the temptation of a cannoli.

My final stop was the Cleveland Botanical Garden ($8 adult) whose grounds made for enjoyable exploration, with a variety of themes such as herb garden, perennials, woodlands, etc... The Glasshouse though was my favourite part, with a “Madagascar Spiny Desert” section where one large tortoise was mounting another turtle (harassing the other turtle, playing or trying to mate, I’m not sure?). “The Costa Rica rainforest” section was a sight to behold, replete with butterflies of a beautiful spectrum of colours.

*Final thoughts on Cleveland to come*

tomfuller: Thanks, I considered Amtrak as I have enjoyed a sleeper Capitol Limited from DC to Chicago in the past. Indeed, I *was* put off by the 3 am arrival time (which, having been on the Capitol Limited before I know could have been 5:30 am).

cd,gardendiva,ackislander,cmcfong: All your words made my day!

cd: Also must be nice to have Lake Erie so close! gardendiva: Hope you do make it one day!
ackislander: I did see Severance Hall, but didn't go in.

*Final thoughts on Cleveland*

*Final morning in Cleveland*

The morning before my $59 Greyhound bus heading for Toronto, the B&B owner offered to take me for a drive around, to see areas of Cleveland I'd missed. Edgewater Park had a beach on Lake Erie, Lakewood was a neighborhood with some relatively affordable beautiful homes right close to the lake shore. What a lovely way to end the trip!

*Cleveland to Toronto*

So, I took two buses to get to Toronto; a four hour ride (which became six *woe is me* due to construction) to Buffalo and then a 2-1/2 hour ride from there to Toronto, including border crossing. Some of you will be pleased to hear there was a random security check prior to boarding the Greyhound in Cleveland… I too was pleased, although I do recommend you don’t put your fingernail scissors in your carry-on as I did, as they will be confiscated.

*Cleveland-Toronto comparison*

You’ll remember that I originally imagined Toronto and Cleveland as similar cities prior to visiting Cleveland. The difference between the two cities really hit home when I observed the vastly different demographic from the Cleveland-Buffalo bus versus the Buffalo-Toronto bus. The Buffalo-bound bus was primarily urban African American with some white working class (one backpacker from the Netherlands) thrown in the mix as on the DC-Cleveland bus. People largely stayed quiet, minding their own business as they slept, looked out the window. For the Toronto-bound bus on the other hand, the shift was so dramatic, I could hardly believe it myself. Races absent from the other ride appeared in number: Sikhs and others from the Indian subcontinent, east Asians, Arabs, eastern Europeans, Latin Americans, a few anglo-Canadians and most blacks this time (judging by their accents) hailed from Caribbean nations or Africa itself. On this bus, a moneyed element not visible on the previous bus was evident too; people were wearing fashionable clothes, watching movies/doing business/checking the Internet on their I-pads or laptops, texting each other, listening to their I-pods. I KNOW Toronto is a booming, multicultural city but having visited from quite multicultural Montreal in the past, the difference seemed less dramatic. Coming from the Ohio-Buffalo bus, it seemed a veritable tidal wave of multiculturalism. Then, arriving in Toronto, the city looked so big & powerful after Cleveland, with its mile after mile of imposing glassy skyscrapers and busy industry. And then to see the bustle of the streets at 10pm at night, with hot dog stands open, people hurrying to catch the last trains from Union Station, the difference was a rather startling contrast compared with the nearly deserted streets of downtown Cleveland when I arrived there 4 days earlier.

Now, I’m not trying to say here one is better than another; I actually am glad they’re different (how boring if they were just the same) and appreciate both! As for Cleveland, as I reflected back on my trip, it really was a delightful 3-day getaway. From the *free* Coventry Street Fair to a *free* International Fair in University Circle, to the *free* stellar Cleveland Art Museum, to the *free* beauty of strolling the green space of Lakeview Cemetery or Case Western campus, to the beach at Edgewater Park, to the decent public transport system, to the quality of a variety of genres of restaurants, to the handsome homes of Ohio City, Little Italy, University Circle and Cleveland Heights—I could not help but think that Clevelanders really do have a pretty darn good quality of life! All I can say is I’m glad I stuck to my guns and explored Cleveland despite acquaintances noses high asking, “Why are you going THERE?”

Happy travels, Daniel

Daniel, terrific trip report. I hope to get to Cleveland for some quality sightseeing one of these days.

Daniel, again, great report! So enjoyed reading it! I just wish you would have seen Cleveland from the lake. The Goodtime makes daily runs.

bachslunch-- Having seen what you seek out when you travel in the past, I think you would like Cleveland.
cd-- A reason to return one day!

Daniel -

Great trip report. I loved your story of the key(I recently had a similar experience but finally got the key to work). And how nice of the B&B proprietor to take you for a visit-ending drive.

Thanks Toucan2

While I was wheeling my luggage down the near-Midnight deserted streets of near Cleveland not knowing where I was going really, I was not a happy camper, but I find these sorts of situations do make for good stories after .

Were this not about Cleveland, the end results wouldn't have been pre-ordained and anticipated by most readers.

Perhaps more were reinforced in what they already believed/perceived than actually learned anything new.

I commend the effort!

Another great report, Daniel, thank you!

Great report, Daniel. I love your comparison of the cities and bus rides. Good to know you can have an interesting vacation when people discourage you. I imagine that you could find interesting things to do in almost any city you visited, since you're obviously interested and observant of people and things to do/see.

Thanks!

emalloy, AnnMarie-- I appreciated your words, thank you!

NWmale--I enjoy your comments. Perhaps you're correct; I never know what pre-conceived notions people actually have about anywhere (undoubtedly vastly differing from reader to reader). I do know that some of my own were a bit off the mark. I'll also add that for those friends to whom I showed my Cleveland pictures, they have been surprised and impressed with the beauty of some of the parks and architecture.

Daniel,

Once again - wonderful stuff.

I appreciate your writing, your travel style and your eye for the best that any place you visit offers.

I am at times fascinated by kinda-sorta-semi-almost up-close photography of the sun, too, but that is due in large part to an extreme lack of interest in getting THAT close to it to see for myself.

It does stand to reason that most anyone would find some bright spots in/about Cleveland which most would enjoy scenery-wise. I have a strong sense that Cleveland is a place best viewed by the bright light of the aforementioned sun, and thus your arrival at the bus terminal at 10:40pm was bound to have many readers on the edges of their seats.

Daniel, yours was a solid effort, I'll certainly agree to that!

Bardo--Thank you. You've been reading my trips for years; I remember and appreciate your appreciation.

NWMale: I've emerged from Murtala Mohammed airport in Lagos, Nigeria; the bus terminal in Cleveland (no comparison, truly!) is a breeze .

Well as a Clevelander I'm glad you enjoyed it! Great report.

Bravo, Daniel! Thank you for writing a story that is so rarely told here; I think it is the first Cleveland & bus trip report I've read.

We'll be in northern Ohio for the annual family reunion in August, and I plan to take my future daughter-in-law to Cleveland to visit the West Side Market and Hungarian neighborhoods near it where my husband's mother grew up. Tradition dictates that we snag one of Lucy's strudels there at the market, so we'll be early. And maybe some pierogies.

Had the good fortune to spend a week in Torono on business one September. I was able to come in on Saturday morning before the conference, and spent that plus the late afternoons/evenings exploring that city (above and below ground). It's one of my favorite memories.

amelie--Thank you!

sludick-- My pleasure. Mine looks like it is perhaps indeed the first Cleveland trip report (I just looked under Ohio trip reports), well at least since 2008 when Fodor's instated the "trip report" option. I was surprised at this, given the amount the city has to offer. As for the bus, I've seen a few other trip reports on trips via Greyhound, but it's less common to be sure . Thanks for reading and enjoy the strudels and pierogis at West Side Market!

Taking my in-laws who are in town from Scotland to the West Side Market on Friday!

Daniel - Great report! I'm born, raised and still live in Cleveland - well, ok, a bit west of the city, in Lakewood and really enjoyed reading your report - and your comparison to Toronto. If you ever return, you might want to add a trip thru the Tremont area (fabulous restaurants), the previously mentioned West Side Market, our beautiful Zoo, with it's very newly opened Elephant Crossing, the Great Lakes Science Center and the NASA Glenn Museum (next to the Science Center). Or maybe catch a concert at Severance Hall, or a visit to one of the many museums in University Circle (The Western Reserve Historial Society is amazing and gives a great history lesson of Cleveland), or a relaxing trip on the GoodTime, crusing the Cuyahoga River and Lake Erie. Work has started on our Casino in Downtown.

Cleveland offers a lot, but sometimes you have to dig a bit to find that out!

Daniel.. what a well written report. I love the detail and how you write. Now I am going to look up some more of your reports! I think you were very brave when that key didn't work.

Thanks for the report. I hope you enjoyed our street fair. I was selling lemonade there! If you ever get back to Cleveland, you really should eat in Little Italy. For any other summer visitors, Wade Oval Wednesdays are free concerts or plays on the green by the art museum on Wed evenings.

debs, lincasanova, butterflybush-- Thank you each for appreciating the report as I appreciate your thoughtful comments.

Debs-- I just saw Lakewood from a car window, but many homes I saw looked handsome. And thanks for these ideas for when I *do* return !

lincasanova-- I must say, I think I was more tired and resigned to my fate than brave. But thank you.

butterflybush-- What fun you were at the street fair. I enjoyed meandering through and thought Tommy's was pretty terrific (a healthy, tasty meal with brown rice and veggies where I felt good about what I was ingesting). I wish I could go to Wade Oval Wednesdays; free concerts or plays, I love it!

Daniel, I have a couple of questions about Mexico City. Please email me: RHSachs@optonline.net

Thanks