Bruce and Marija go to New York City
May 27th, 2009, 07:16 AM
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Bruce and Marija go to New York City
This was our first trip to New York together. Yup, that's a pretty embarrassing confession but our game plan is to save exploring the US for when our feet and wallets make international travel difficult. Although the current recession has certainly lightened our wallets, Bruce's invitation to give a paper in New York City, was enough incentive for a short trip over the long Memorial Day weekend.
Even before we left I had regrets. Our flight would put us into New York too late to take advantage of a recession special destination lunch at Cafe Boulud. Since traffic to the airport was light and we always leave early, we were able to get on an earlier flight which put us at Laguardia at 12:30. As soon as the captain cleared the way for cell phones, I was dialing Cafe Boulud trying to schedule lunch. Success! We had 2:30 reservations.
Despite the usual recommendations here to just catch a cab from the airport, we made our way to the Hudson's newstand at baggage claim and bought two 7-day Metrocards at $25 each. (It's only the Hudson's at baggage claim that sells the cards.) We never took a taxi anywhere during our stay. I knew how to get to our hotel in mid-town using the Q33 bus and the subway but a change of destination meant that we needed new directions from the information desk. By 1:45 we were waiting for our table at the restaurant, even with an unscheduled detour on the subway where we boarded the train heading in the wrong direction. How did we manage that?! We were amazed by how friendly and solicitous the New Yorkers we encountered were. As soon as we figured out we were headed the wrong way people were offering us detailed instructions on what we should do. Although this was our sole transportation mistake, we couldn't help but be impressed by how courteous and helpful bus drivers were, patiently giving advice, waiting for people, and even cheerfully greeting passengers. That's not how it's done in Chicago.
Cafe Boulud is part of Daniel Boulud's empire
http://www.danielnyc.com/cafebouludNY.html
The prix fixe lunch menu is three courses for $24. There are also two wines, a white and red, for $24 a bottle. Besides the featured bottle of Muscadet Côtes De Grandlieu, Loire Valley 2007, we had: tiger prawns, coconut and curry soup, gnocchi with mushrooms, pork tenderloin with two sauces, and peanut flavored and raspberry flavored desserts. What a delicious deal!
After lunch we retrieved our luggage from the checkroom, then hopped a Lexington Avenue bus to mid-town and checked into the Palace hotel. I must have read every review posted anywhere for any Manhattan hotel and checked their prices as well. Based on the very large number of positive reviews on tripadvisor and the great rate of $200 a night, we finally booked five nights at the Palace. I booked the cheapest king bedded room, hoping we'd get an upgrade, and we did. My concern that we'd be stuck in some small box was unwarranted. Our large, spotless (but no free internet) room on the 33rd floor overlooked St. Patrick's cathedral. Internet was absurdly priced at $16 per day although there was free access in the lobby. The hotel was well located and our room was very comfortable. The concierges were readily available to answer any questions. Since we came prepared with a list of restaurants we never need much advice, though they did confirm our Monday lunch reservations at Jean-Georges when we couldn't get through on Sunday morning.
Even before we left I had regrets. Our flight would put us into New York too late to take advantage of a recession special destination lunch at Cafe Boulud. Since traffic to the airport was light and we always leave early, we were able to get on an earlier flight which put us at Laguardia at 12:30. As soon as the captain cleared the way for cell phones, I was dialing Cafe Boulud trying to schedule lunch. Success! We had 2:30 reservations.
Despite the usual recommendations here to just catch a cab from the airport, we made our way to the Hudson's newstand at baggage claim and bought two 7-day Metrocards at $25 each. (It's only the Hudson's at baggage claim that sells the cards.) We never took a taxi anywhere during our stay. I knew how to get to our hotel in mid-town using the Q33 bus and the subway but a change of destination meant that we needed new directions from the information desk. By 1:45 we were waiting for our table at the restaurant, even with an unscheduled detour on the subway where we boarded the train heading in the wrong direction. How did we manage that?! We were amazed by how friendly and solicitous the New Yorkers we encountered were. As soon as we figured out we were headed the wrong way people were offering us detailed instructions on what we should do. Although this was our sole transportation mistake, we couldn't help but be impressed by how courteous and helpful bus drivers were, patiently giving advice, waiting for people, and even cheerfully greeting passengers. That's not how it's done in Chicago.
Cafe Boulud is part of Daniel Boulud's empire
http://www.danielnyc.com/cafebouludNY.html
The prix fixe lunch menu is three courses for $24. There are also two wines, a white and red, for $24 a bottle. Besides the featured bottle of Muscadet Côtes De Grandlieu, Loire Valley 2007, we had: tiger prawns, coconut and curry soup, gnocchi with mushrooms, pork tenderloin with two sauces, and peanut flavored and raspberry flavored desserts. What a delicious deal!
After lunch we retrieved our luggage from the checkroom, then hopped a Lexington Avenue bus to mid-town and checked into the Palace hotel. I must have read every review posted anywhere for any Manhattan hotel and checked their prices as well. Based on the very large number of positive reviews on tripadvisor and the great rate of $200 a night, we finally booked five nights at the Palace. I booked the cheapest king bedded room, hoping we'd get an upgrade, and we did. My concern that we'd be stuck in some small box was unwarranted. Our large, spotless (but no free internet) room on the 33rd floor overlooked St. Patrick's cathedral. Internet was absurdly priced at $16 per day although there was free access in the lobby. The hotel was well located and our room was very comfortable. The concierges were readily available to answer any questions. Since we came prepared with a list of restaurants we never need much advice, though they did confirm our Monday lunch reservations at Jean-Georges when we couldn't get through on Sunday morning.
May 27th, 2009, 11:19 AM
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After our successful check-in we headed towards Central Park, a fifteen minute or so stroll up Fifth Avenue. There's something for everyone here, including those of us who just want to gawk at what others are doing. Our plan was to walk to Tavern on the Green and have a drink but once we got there we decided to just buy a bottle of water from a cart and drink it on a bench since the outdoor seating offered a limited view. I wanted to see Zabar's so we swiped our MetroCard on a couple of buses and there we were:
http://www.zabars.com/
It was smaller than I had expected and had only two brands of canned anchovies. (I've been looking to improve the quality of the anchovies we use. The selection's very limited in Chicago.) I bought several cans of the variety I haven't seen here, Bruce had a mediocre espresso at the adjacent cafe, and we set off down Broadway back to our hotel. We noted the famous H&H bagels on the corner but didn't buy any. (Our Whole Foods claims to bake H&H bagels but they're probably not as good as the real thing.)
Since lunch was fairly elaborate we wanted a simpler dinner. Katz's deli beckoned. Before coming to New York, knowing that we wouldn't spring for the internet connection, I had printed out both menus from, and directions to, promising destinations, so it was easy to find our way to Katz's:
http://www.katzdeli.com.
Thanks to whoever posted the instructions on the protocol at Katz's: each person gets a card on which purchases are recorded. Even if you're not paying you need a card. Next you go to the counter, order a pastrami on rye with mustard and pickles, tip the counterman a dollar for an advance taste, take your food to a table in the center area, and eat. (If you want table service, you sit at the tables along the wall.) On the way out you surrender the cards and pay, cash only. The only misleading advice was to share a single sandwich and not get sides. That's what we did but sharing such an exquisite sandwich was too abstemious. We each needed one.
On our way back to the subway station we noticed that the famed Veselka next to it. Bruce may have been correct in his judgment that we shouldn't indulge in Hungarian fare after a pastrami sandwich but I wasn't so sure...
http://www.zabars.com/
It was smaller than I had expected and had only two brands of canned anchovies. (I've been looking to improve the quality of the anchovies we use. The selection's very limited in Chicago.) I bought several cans of the variety I haven't seen here, Bruce had a mediocre espresso at the adjacent cafe, and we set off down Broadway back to our hotel. We noted the famous H&H bagels on the corner but didn't buy any. (Our Whole Foods claims to bake H&H bagels but they're probably not as good as the real thing.)
Since lunch was fairly elaborate we wanted a simpler dinner. Katz's deli beckoned. Before coming to New York, knowing that we wouldn't spring for the internet connection, I had printed out both menus from, and directions to, promising destinations, so it was easy to find our way to Katz's:
http://www.katzdeli.com.
Thanks to whoever posted the instructions on the protocol at Katz's: each person gets a card on which purchases are recorded. Even if you're not paying you need a card. Next you go to the counter, order a pastrami on rye with mustard and pickles, tip the counterman a dollar for an advance taste, take your food to a table in the center area, and eat. (If you want table service, you sit at the tables along the wall.) On the way out you surrender the cards and pay, cash only. The only misleading advice was to share a single sandwich and not get sides. That's what we did but sharing such an exquisite sandwich was too abstemious. We each needed one.
On our way back to the subway station we noticed that the famed Veselka next to it. Bruce may have been correct in his judgment that we shouldn't indulge in Hungarian fare after a pastrami sandwich but I wasn't so sure...
May 27th, 2009, 11:31 AM
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loving your report - do keep on please.
BTW, have enjoyed a few of the restaurants in your town so am
interested in what you found here...and we New Yorkers do
usually try to give correct info to travelers.
BTW, have enjoyed a few of the restaurants in your town so am
interested in what you found here...and we New Yorkers do
usually try to give correct info to travelers.
May 27th, 2009, 01:08 PM
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Sorry, just wanted to ask is it really that 'easy' to navigate the subway? We really want to this trip. We absolultely loved the tube in London and found it incredibly easy. We have only ever caught the subway once, just on a 'whim' one day. This trip is our third and we have some real ideas of where we want to go, we'd rather not use taxis all the time, but I fear we will if 'I' don't get a handle on it before we go. Any hints?
May 27th, 2009, 01:14 PM
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Aussiedreamer---this site is great for subway directions: http://www.hopstop.com/?city=newyork
The subway can be really easy to use once you get the hang of it; a small map is essential. I think the hardest thing for tourists (and newbies) to get down is the direction of things-- i.e. uptown vs. downtown.
Marija---your reports are always great so it's no surprise that you've gotten off to a good start here. Love the detail so far. If you feel inclined, I welcome you to write a review for your stay at the Palace. http://www.fodors.com/world/north-am...ew-427890.html
The subway can be really easy to use once you get the hang of it; a small map is essential. I think the hardest thing for tourists (and newbies) to get down is the direction of things-- i.e. uptown vs. downtown.
Marija---your reports are always great so it's no surprise that you've gotten off to a good start here. Love the detail so far. If you feel inclined, I welcome you to write a review for your stay at the Palace. http://www.fodors.com/world/north-am...ew-427890.html
May 27th, 2009, 03:17 PM
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The only misleading advice was to share a single sandwich and not get sides. That's what we did but sharing such an exquisite sandwich was too abstemious
It was I, and you're very welcome. Sorry for the bad advice about sharing a sandwich LOL! (And thanks for adding a new word to my vocabulary - "abstemious")
It was I, and you're very welcome. Sorry for the bad advice about sharing a sandwich LOL! (And thanks for adding a new word to my vocabulary - "abstemious")
May 28th, 2009, 05:13 AM
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Thanks for your encouragement. First, I need to correct the ethnicity of Veselka's. It's Ukrainian, not Hungarian. Next, I have a question for Katie_H. On page 251 of Fodor's New York City 2009, isn't the location of the Cloisters wrong? Another question for the New Yorkers: Are escalators in subways routinely turned off in the late evenings? We had a good climb when we got back from Katz's and had to walk up the very long escalator at the 53rd street station at 5th Avenue.
--aussiedreamer, we enjoyed taking busses as well since you can see the city as you go. You don't go fast but you see a lot.
--aussiedreamer, we enjoyed taking busses as well since you can see the city as you go. You don't go fast but you see a lot.
May 28th, 2009, 05:54 AM
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Escalators in subway stations are always a gamble. I gone up an escalator from the subway at midday in Grand Central--15 minutes later the same escalator is not moving. (53rd St station is a particularly deep one to have to climb!)
May 28th, 2009, 08:51 AM
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We started our second day with two bagel and lox sandwiches at Ess-a-Bagel, no more sharing for us (http://www.ess-a-bagel.com). The bagels were much more meaty than the imitation NY style bagels we're used to, so we got in some early morning exercise. A half hour on the subway and we were at the Cloisters for its opening at 9:30. Since it was a beautiful day we walked through Fort Tryon park instead of taking the M4 bus from the subway. The museum was not crowded which made it easy to admire the unicorn tapestries and other items in the collection. We didn't linger too long since we also wanted to visit the Metropolitan Museum which is included in the ticket price if visited the same day.
Instead of taking the subway back , we took the M4 bus all the way, about an hour and a half ride. This let us see a good piece of Manhattan from Harlem to Park Avenue. The traffic around the hospitals was terrible but we didn't mind since we viewed the bus ride as a tourist attraction, rather like the roads in India. We had to go all the way to the hotel so Bruce could dress up in his grown-up clothes and pick up his props for his evening talk at the Metropolitan Museum. Despite Bruce's brain activity being impeded by his tie, we managed to board a Madison Avenue bus back to the Metropolitan Museum.
No real lunch today. Bruce had vetoed all my lunch suggestions claiming that plentiful food and wine would make him "less sharp." Despite my superior knowledge that the brain needs good fuel for any activity, I didn't press the point and Bruce brilliantly selected a bag of vinegar and salt potato chips and a bottle of mineral water (to share) from the cafe in the newly reopened American wing for lunch. All I could hope was that dinner would make up for this lapse, though that too was out of my control since we were dining with the group.
Unlike lunch, the renovated American wing is stunning. We (hungrily) wandered through the incredible museum until it was time for Bruce to meet with the people who arranged his presentation. I wanted to go to the rooftop bar, since wine improves my sharpness and increases my appreciation of Bruce's lectures, but the line for the elevator was very long and I didn't want to leave Bruce unattended.
Dinner was at Mumtaz India restaurant. Although the 1977 review from the New York Times posted in its window was vaguely positive, as someone who is very fond of Indian cuisine, I found the food marginal at best. It's a disappointing day when the culinary highlight is the morning bagel...
Instead of taking the subway back , we took the M4 bus all the way, about an hour and a half ride. This let us see a good piece of Manhattan from Harlem to Park Avenue. The traffic around the hospitals was terrible but we didn't mind since we viewed the bus ride as a tourist attraction, rather like the roads in India. We had to go all the way to the hotel so Bruce could dress up in his grown-up clothes and pick up his props for his evening talk at the Metropolitan Museum. Despite Bruce's brain activity being impeded by his tie, we managed to board a Madison Avenue bus back to the Metropolitan Museum.
No real lunch today. Bruce had vetoed all my lunch suggestions claiming that plentiful food and wine would make him "less sharp." Despite my superior knowledge that the brain needs good fuel for any activity, I didn't press the point and Bruce brilliantly selected a bag of vinegar and salt potato chips and a bottle of mineral water (to share) from the cafe in the newly reopened American wing for lunch. All I could hope was that dinner would make up for this lapse, though that too was out of my control since we were dining with the group.
Unlike lunch, the renovated American wing is stunning. We (hungrily) wandered through the incredible museum until it was time for Bruce to meet with the people who arranged his presentation. I wanted to go to the rooftop bar, since wine improves my sharpness and increases my appreciation of Bruce's lectures, but the line for the elevator was very long and I didn't want to leave Bruce unattended.
Dinner was at Mumtaz India restaurant. Although the 1977 review from the New York Times posted in its window was vaguely positive, as someone who is very fond of Indian cuisine, I found the food marginal at best. It's a disappointing day when the culinary highlight is the morning bagel...
May 28th, 2009, 10:39 AM
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Marija-- I think that's a mistake (placement of Cloisters on the map). I'm going to forward your comment to the editor. I wish it was that close! Thank you for letting us know!
Glad to hear that you enjoyed the American wing---I definitely want to check that out soon.
Glad to hear that you enjoyed the American wing---I definitely want to check that out soon.
May 28th, 2009, 10:45 AM
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Already heard back from the editor Maria---turns out a directional arrow pointing up (as in off the map) was dropped and somehow a normal icon replaced it. She's making a note of it for the next edition. Thanks again.
