Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > United States
Reload this Page >

Back in Kauai ... with a Twist: an Ongoing, Boring Songdoc Trip Report

Back in Kauai ... with a Twist: an Ongoing, Boring Songdoc Trip Report

Old Oct 10th, 2013, 10:10 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,106
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Back in Kauai ... with a Twist: an Ongoing, Boring Songdoc Trip Report

Well … this isn’t going to be much of a trip report because I’m recovering from surgery, and can’t do the hiking that I’d typically do in Kauai. But … hopefully, as I keep you apprised, I won’t bore you too dreadfully ;-).

Arrived Friday evening, October 4th. The flights on American (Nashville to Chicago; Chicago to LAX; LAX to Lihue) were uneventful—but the final flight arrived almost an hour late. Never did learn why. Having earned “Gold Elite” status, I was entitled to “Main Cabin Extra” seating at no extra charge. Those extra inches really made a nice difference.

DP was using AAdvantage FF miles and couldn’t get a flight until the next day. After such a long day, I typically stay at the Kauai Beach Resort near the airport that first night, and do a Costco and Wal-Mart run the next day before driving up to Princeville. This time, I used Priceline and got the Courtyard Marriott in Kapaa for $110/night. I really liked the hotel. It was a little more low-key than the KBR, and I preferred it. The staff was uniformly exceptional. My preference is the North Shore, but for someone looking for a central location (or an East Coast base) I'd recommend this hotel in a heartbeat.

DP’s flight wouldn’t arrive until 7:30 PM. I was given a 2 PM late checkout (at no extra charge—but beyond that would have cost $99) and was told I was welcome to enjoy the pool and grounds after my checkout.

Oh, but my first stop had to be Kountry Kitchen (in Kapa’a) for a fruit salad and one massive banana macadamia nut pancake. Now I was officially back in Kauai—and stuffed to the gills! Took a stroll along the walking path, feeling utterly at peace and satiated on every level. Ahhh …

The Kapa’a library (across the street from KK) was having a book, CD, DVD, & bake sale. I enjoyed browsing and bought some books (even though I do have a visitor’s library card).

Back at the Marriott Courtyard I dozed in a hammock and soaked in the Jacuzzi. Pure bliss after a more-than 15-hour travel day. Picked up a custom-made sandwich and some fruit at Foodland, and ate back at the pool.

I’d kept my toiletries and clean clothes handy, and used the outdoor shower to clean up, and a restroom for changing. Then it was off to Costco. A large, insulated bag served as my carry-on bag. I filled it with ice purchased at Costco, and was able to stock up on all the frozen foods and produce I’d need—without worrying about it spoiling before I got back to Princeville.

Next stop: Hamura’s Saimin. So, I managed to check off my top two food addictions in one day (Kountry Kitchen pancakes AND wonton saimin with a chicken BBQ stick). YUM!!!

Picked up DP at the airport and headed to Princeville. But … my devoted readers will be shocked to learn that my destination was NOT my beloved Sealodge condo. Stay tuned for the scoop …
Songdoc is offline  
Old Oct 11th, 2013, 02:51 AM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,904
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ok we're hooked! Keep it up. Please.
emalloy is offline  
Old Oct 11th, 2013, 12:42 PM
  #3  
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I can't wait to hear more.....
kona514 is offline  
Old Oct 13th, 2013, 02:43 PM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
TORTURE where in the world did you stay???? Please don't wait too long for filling in the mystery for us. 5 months to go before I return to Kauai.....
Shar is offline  
Old Oct 14th, 2013, 10:53 PM
  #5  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,106
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I've been sooooo busy, but I won't make you wait a moment longer. Songdoc has moved up in the world! The owner (who is also the architect and interior designer) of Orchid Point, noticed me writing on the little patio at Sealodge. (Orchid Point is next door.) We became friendly, and now, I’m incredibly fortunate to be staying in this truly incredible place.

It’s a triplex. I’m in the largest unit (“C” -- almost 2400 sf) with 3 bedrooms, 3-1/2 bathrooms, walk-in-closets; Jacuzzi tub in the gorgeous master bath. It’s hilarious that we travel with little carry-on bags with shorts, T-shirts, a couple of aloha shirts and bathing suits—and we’ve each got our own walk-in closet (not to mention the ones in the spare bedrooms).

Of course I don’t need anything this big, but size is not all that matters … It’s absolutely stunning-- the furnishings, the interior design, the art work, and the architecture are luxurious. And ohhhh, the Anini/lighthouse ocean views from the enormous lanai!!! Add in the sound of the surf, and I think I’m in heaven.

I had looked at this unit a couple of years ago when it was on the market and there was an open house. My comment was that it was my ultimate fantasy, and amazingly, reflected my exact taste. Unfortunately, it did NOT reflect my bank account!! I never dreamed I’d be staying here—and quickly getting used to it!!!

Have been having a fabulous time and doing more and more as I heal from surgery. Yesterday, the weather was absolutely gorgeous in the morning. We decided to head south to Maha'ulepu Beach. But first, breakfast at Kountry Kitchen. Fabulous. We split a banana/macadamia pancake and a luau omelet.

It was such a pretty drive, and we loved driving through the tree tunnel. Sadly, the dirt road past the Grand Hyatt to Maha'ulepu has gotten even worse--and it was bad before. The pot holes were brutal. The access road is on private property, so I guess the state can't force the owners to fix it. But it's heartbreaking that one of the most gorgeous places on the island has become so difficult to access.

I don't think Maha'ulepu is on a lot of tourists' radar, but IMHO, it should be. I never stop being stunned by its unearthly beauty. The cliffs are sculptures carved by the sea and wind, and the water was a gorgeous turquoise. I've learned to wear sneakers because it's easier to walk over the jagged lava and along the cliffs. I took almost a hundred photos!

When we arrived, there was an enormous monk seal sunning at the ocean's edge. The previous day I had read that a swimmer (I think on Oahu) had been bitten by one, but not seriously injured. While we were walking along the cliffs we saw the seal swimming below us. Neat! I was a little nervous about swimming where the seal had just been, but I was hot enough to take the plunge. It was fantastic, and neither the seal nor I bit each other ;-).

Other highlights ... gorgeous sunrises and sunsets from the lanai, while sipping homemade smoothies made with fresh apple bananas, mangoes, pineapple, and papayas from the Kilauea farmer's market and the Saturday Hanalei Farmer's Market.

We've had several wonderful walks and swims at Hanalei Bay. The first day, the waves were a little too rough for me to brave while still recovering. (Under other circumstances, I would have loved them.) But since then it's been quite calm, and I've had several blissful soaks.

Had a big surprise when the Kilauea Lighthouse was closed. It never occurred to me that it was a national monument--and therefore, closed due to the government shutdown. I was even more surprised to find the parking lot and trails roped off and closed at the Hanalei Wildlife refuge. I never dreamed that was a national refuge--and therefore, also subject to closure. But we parked on the road and had a wonderful walk, anyway. What a GORGEOUS spot. Took lots more pix.

We've also enjoyed our walks along the Princeville golf course. Some people don't like Princeville and say it's too "manicured." But those mountain views, and Bali Hai views are gorgeous.

Well, I think that brings you up to date. To be continued when there's more to report!
Songdoc is offline  
Old Oct 15th, 2013, 04:42 PM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the update on the new digs. SOunds fabulous and so glad you have all that room for your trunks, and shorts! Will have to check this out on line.....Not close enough to start a countdown yet. March is too far away.....
Shar is offline  
Old Oct 15th, 2013, 06:25 PM
  #7  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,106
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Shar -- It's never too early for a Kauai countdown ;-)
Songdoc is offline  
Old Nov 7th, 2013, 11:15 AM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 464
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Shar: The countdown thread has been updated and is at the top of the Hawaii thread. I agree with Songdoc, it is never too early...260 days for me!

Songdoc: Just checking in, I hope you are okay! It's been almost a month since your last post. I hope all is well! Are you still on Kauai? When's your next trip?
louistraveler5 is offline  
Old Nov 9th, 2013, 06:15 AM
  #9  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,106
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Time flies and I’ve had to to bid farewell to paradise (sniff, sniff). Talk about culture shock, I traded Kauai for L.A.’s 405 Freeway and a huge conference where I’m working 14-hour days! It was an amazing, blissful trip.

After a couple of weeks I healed from my surgery sufficiently to enjoy the long walks that are such a part of my Kauai experience. I even did one of my fave hikes at Waimea Canyon—the Canyon Trail. What a day …

We’d stopped en route for coconut shrimp at the Shrimp Station in Waimea. Delicious as always. And of course I had to stop at the Kauai Coffee Company. It’s the only place that sells the decaf version of their Coconut Caramel Crunch—my addiction. I sampled lots of wonderful brews, stocked up on Christmas gifts, and left there buzzed to the gills and ready to hike! (IMO, that’s one of the best places to buy gifts on the island.)

There were a few muddy spots on the trail but nothing that felt dangerous. I’ve done the Canyon Trail many times, yet each time, I see something new, and I can hardly believe the extraordinary beauty. You basically hike along the rim of the canyon and the views are spectacular.

HOT TIP: Almost every who hikes the Canyon Trail goes to the little waterfall/grotto then turns back. NO, NO, NO! Continue just a few minutes past the waterfall for the most breathtaking views. As always, my camera got quite a workout.

The bad part is that the Kalalau Lookout was completely shrouded by clouds and fog. I told several people, “Just give it twenty minutes and it’ll be crystal clear.” That’s always been my experience. But … we went for coffee in the lodge, rested in the car, went for a walk … and it never cleared up that day. I’ve seen that view many times, but I felt so sorry for those who had only that one opportunity because IMO, it’s one of the most beautiful views on this planet.

The sun was beginning to set as we descended the mountain and there were some gorgeous views of the island of Nihau lit by the setting sun. As we continued back, my car insisted on pulling into the site of the Russian fort. OMG. The sunset from that beach was nothing short of MAGNIFICENT. You’ll just have to see the pictures and judge for yourself. WOWOWOWOW!!!

Dinner was at Hamura’s Saimin. What could possibly be a better day???

One afternoon I was doing my almost-daily walk at Hanalei Bay when I spotted a tight cluster of canoes, kayaks, surfers on their boards, and swimmers congregating near the pier. The canoes were festooned with greenery, and as I guessed, it was a memorial service. At one point, plumeria and orchid blossoms were strewn into the water. Later, as I walked, I saw the flower petals drifting on the waves and washing ashore. That send-off was so beautiful it made me cry.

One more highlight …
DP and I had a fantastic day at Ke’e Beach—the end of the road before the Napali Cliffs. DP calls it “Chicken Beach” because there are usually so many chickens there. Spur of the moment, we decided to do the very beginning of the Kalalau Trail—just to the ½ mile spot where you get the views of the cliffs. I was curious whether the trail would seem as daunting and uninviting as it had the last time I did it.

On that previous hike I went to the waterfall—4 miles each way. It was almost the last hike of my life. After a pouring rain, areas that had been bone dry became streams with slippery, moss-covered rocks to traverse. I wound up face down in a pool of bloody water, unable to move, and wondering if I was about to say my final “aloha” in 6 inches of water.

Good news, my readers: apparently, I survived ;-). But I hobbled out with a lump the size of a baseball on one leg, and bad bruises where my teeth cut the inside of my lips. Ouch.

IMO, that trail should be ONLY for experienced hikers. It’s just too dangerous—and believe me, I’ve done countless other trails. The problem is that you’re walking over uneven rocks and tree roots. Even when they’re dry they’re a twisted ankle or broken bone just begging to happen. When we were there, we needed to walk through a couple of wet, muddy spots. Even though the rest of the trail was dry, the bottoms of our shoes were wet from when we crossed those slick, uneven rocks, and there were a couple of close calls.

The views were FABULOUS and I took some awesome photos. But I can’t say I enjoyed the hike because I was too nervous that I’d get injured. We saw several people who were scraped and bleeding, and I’m surprised there aren’t serious injuries seven days a week. FYI, Backpacker magazine listed it as one of the 10 Most Dangerous Hikes in America.

The trail was crowded, and my guess is that most of these people wouldn’t dream of hiking on even a moderate trail wherever it is they come from. I’ll get down off my soapbox and just say that there are many other gorgeous hikes in Kauai that don’t require me to invite serious injury. (The Kuilau Trail near the arboretum on the East side comes to mind.) Unless you’re an experienced hiker I’d suggest viewing the glorious Napali Cliffs and coast from a boat or helicopter.

It took almost an hour for us to do the 1 mile round trip and we were hot and ready to swim when we got back to Ke’e Beach. The snorkeling area near the reef was closed due to high surf, but swimming closer to the beach was heavenly.

That reminds me that during the entire month there were only two days when the surf was too rough for me to swim at Hanalei Bay. Many of the days it was calm as a swimming pool. But the majority of the days had perfect gentle waves.

The weather was mostly great. Most of the infamous North Shore rain came in the middle of the night, and in very short showers throughout the day. There were only one or two “rainy” days in a month, although there were lots of cloudy, and partly cloudy periods. My biggest complaint is that it was uncharacteristically hot at times because the trade winds stopped. I’ve never had a/c and never needed it. This time, there were periods during about ten days when I wished I had a/c.

A few other random thoughts: loved taking lots of long walks on the bike/walking path from Kealia Beach. Enjoyed dinner al fresco at Neide’s. Love the panceques—Brazilian crepes stuffed with either fresh veggies & cheese, or chicken & cheese. (We split one of each.)

I’ll close by saying that I’ve always loved my stays at Sealodge. I don’t think you can beat the views for that money. But staying at Orchid Point took things to a whole next level. I’ll be returning in January, and if I didn’t already have my reservation, I don’t know how I could bear to leave.

I hope this is helpful to some of the readers.
Songdoc is offline  
Old Nov 9th, 2013, 11:47 AM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks Songdoc you have this knack of making the readers feel we are walking with you - if not that we certainly also want to follow your well guided footsteps heeding any advice you give.I am sure everyone is also pleased your return is not too far away ....we can all at least pretend we have returned to paradise that way! Looking forward to some links to your photos so we can dream some more!
loumike is offline  
Old Nov 9th, 2013, 05:29 PM
  #11  
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for another excellent dose of what you are "selling" us - the beauty of Kauai.
Can't wait to go back!
Glad that your 'trip' on the Kalalau was only a little bumpy. Your warning might have saved some pain, for those unaware of the conditions they might experience. There are lots of other great places one can visit, and still get the full Kauai experience.... with little personal risk.
kanunu is offline  
Old Nov 23rd, 2013, 06:47 AM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
What a wonderful trip report! We are going to Kauai for our first time ever for two weeks at Christmas/New Years and are very excited. Thanks for sharing all the great tips!
marysmommy is offline  
Old Nov 23rd, 2013, 12:54 PM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 9,916
Received 19 Likes on 4 Posts
Songdoc is the Canyon trail hike doable for a couple who aren't really into hiking? Well my DH is a lot fitter than I am but we don't normally do much hiking. What are the other easy trails on Kauai that are worth doing.
nelsonian is online now  
Old Nov 23rd, 2013, 03:05 PM
  #14  
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 11,375
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Always love your reports. When you were "down" - thought I might recommend a little island treat - Pakalolo - although I haven't partaken in a long long time.
Tomsd is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2013, 05:15 AM
  #15  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,106
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for all the nice comments. I promise to post the pix soon.

Tomsd--I could've used a little Pakalolo! Smelled lots of it at Black "Pot" Beach.

Nelsonian--The Canyon Trail and Kuilau Trails are "hikes"--as opposed to a gentle walk--but they're rated as "moderate." I don't find them difficult, and I've seen people do it in flip-flops, but I think that's crazy. The Canyon Trail is 3.6 miles RT and has a few short sections that are a little bit challenging (i.e., a little steep), especially If it's muddy or slippery. You can always turn back if you find it too much.

IMO, there aren't any "easy"-rated hiking trails worth doing. But for a gorgeous walk, park at Kealia Beach then walk north on the walking/bike path. I also love walking along the surf at Hanalei Bay, and as mentioned in the trip report, the walk along the cliffs at Maha'ulepa--but the road is terrible with potholes, so you have to drive very slowly and carefully. PS. I've just started working on my next trip to NZ.
Songdoc is offline  
Old Nov 25th, 2013, 07:25 AM
  #16  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,106
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Finally ... a link to the pix! (you'll have to copy & paste it into your browser)

http://share.shutterfly.com/action/w...=2QctG7hu0ZMUs

Enjoy.
Songdoc is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cmstraf
United States
12
Mar 29th, 2019 02:08 AM
louistraveler5
United States
13
May 15th, 2018 10:23 AM
aledm
United States
1
Oct 17th, 2014 11:22 AM
HawaiiVirgin
United States
51
Sep 14th, 2009 08:30 AM
Songdoc
United States
13
Aug 21st, 2007 05:36 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -