Austin, Texas, you stole my heart!
Jul 13th, 2010, 09:16 AM
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Austin, Texas, you stole my heart!
Great food, great music, but most of all, the friendliest folks I've ever met! There was hardly a soul on the street who didn't pause, smile and say hello. A Texas sized shout out to Big Russ, kkukura, schoolmarm, swisshiker, P_M, SeasonedTexasTravelr and Austin. All your recommendations were spot on! I'll be back for sure!
This is the story of 2 whirlwind days in Austin, flying solo, following 3 in North Texas, where I travelled 30 years back in time to visit my old life, and old high school and college friends (which, btw, I recommend HIGHLY, but that's an entirely different story!) I've always wanted to see Austin, and I figured if I only get to Texas once every 30 years, better get to it!
I drove the incredibly b-o-r-i-n-g 3.5 hours from Denton to Austin on a Friday morning. Still, it was a straight shot down I-35, the sun was shining, I had great music along for the ride, and I was still high from my trip back in time.
Arrived around 1:00, and headed straight to meet a friend and his 4 year old daughter for lunch. His office is in the Arts District (note to self - looks cool...visit this area on next trip), so he took me to Juanita's Tacos, 1120 W. 5th (at Walsh.) Housed in an old train car (read no air conditioning), this place is what I call an atmospheric dump, with great tacos. The pork tacos al pastor were the best I've ever had. At $2.50 a pop, I'm all over this place!
The little girl was playing shy, and spent more time hiding than eating. My friend questioned how she'd be able to manage ice cream if she couldn't eat her taco. But I was a good girl, and finished all my lunch, so it was off to Amy's for a treat!
We went to the Amy's at 1012 W. 6th (at Lamar.) It's a friendly, colorful and funky shop. I told the kid behind the counter that I was an Amy's virgin, visiting from out of town, and asked him to fix me up. He threw down some Mexican Vanilla and chopped into it some vanilla cream filled vanilla cookies. Rather than just scraping the concoction into the cup, he tossed it in the air, behind his back a few times, and landed it in the cup! Nice touch, and, of course, delicious. It was then time for my friend to return to work, so we said our goodbyes, and I headed off to check into my hotel.
To be continued...
This is the story of 2 whirlwind days in Austin, flying solo, following 3 in North Texas, where I travelled 30 years back in time to visit my old life, and old high school and college friends (which, btw, I recommend HIGHLY, but that's an entirely different story!) I've always wanted to see Austin, and I figured if I only get to Texas once every 30 years, better get to it!
I drove the incredibly b-o-r-i-n-g 3.5 hours from Denton to Austin on a Friday morning. Still, it was a straight shot down I-35, the sun was shining, I had great music along for the ride, and I was still high from my trip back in time.
Arrived around 1:00, and headed straight to meet a friend and his 4 year old daughter for lunch. His office is in the Arts District (note to self - looks cool...visit this area on next trip), so he took me to Juanita's Tacos, 1120 W. 5th (at Walsh.) Housed in an old train car (read no air conditioning), this place is what I call an atmospheric dump, with great tacos. The pork tacos al pastor were the best I've ever had. At $2.50 a pop, I'm all over this place!
The little girl was playing shy, and spent more time hiding than eating. My friend questioned how she'd be able to manage ice cream if she couldn't eat her taco. But I was a good girl, and finished all my lunch, so it was off to Amy's for a treat!
We went to the Amy's at 1012 W. 6th (at Lamar.) It's a friendly, colorful and funky shop. I told the kid behind the counter that I was an Amy's virgin, visiting from out of town, and asked him to fix me up. He threw down some Mexican Vanilla and chopped into it some vanilla cream filled vanilla cookies. Rather than just scraping the concoction into the cup, he tossed it in the air, behind his back a few times, and landed it in the cup! Nice touch, and, of course, delicious. It was then time for my friend to return to work, so we said our goodbyes, and I headed off to check into my hotel.
To be continued...
Jul 13th, 2010, 01:45 PM
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Hey Iregeo - Glad you had a great time visiting Austin. Now just don't take 30 years to come back, ya hear!!
Confession: I've lived here 15 years and have never had an ice cream concoction from Amy's.
Confession: I've lived here 15 years and have never had an ice cream concoction from Amy's.
Jul 13th, 2010, 04:58 PM
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I made my way over and checked into the Doubletree Suites downtown, on 15th between Lavaca and Guadalupe. At $60/night on a successful Priceline bid, I think I did o.k. I was satisfied in almost every way, except that on check in, they wouldn't give me a capitol view room; self parking cost $17/day; and wireless service in the room cost $10.95/day. No matter, I did get a perfectly clean suite with 2 queen beds, large, well equipped bathroom (with Neutrogena bath products) full kitchen, living room, balcony and 2 tv's, neither of which I turned on during my entire stay. The hotel offers convenient, free shuttle service within a 2 mile radius. The staff were (was?) pleasant and accommodating, especially the young valets/concierge(s)/drivers who went out of their way to research and provide me with information about clubs appropriate for a solo old bat like me!
Speaking of old bats...(get it?), I dropped my bags and hit the road on foot. My "must sees" for the day included the South Congress district and the bats at dusk, taking in what I could along the way. I think I did the day justice.
First stop was the capitol building, where I did a self guided tour of the main level. FYI, they do offer free, guided tours every 15 minutes, but that was more than I wanted. Anyway, it is a beautiful building, filled with lots of Texas pride and history. After admiring the history laden floors, the life size portrait of Davey Crockett and the cool, old treasury room, it was off down Congress St., taking in the few shops and restaurants along the way.
Next stop, the Driskill Hotel at Brazos and W. 6th. Wow! Now that's my idea of a hotel! Historic and classically elegant, it's where I'll stay next time I'm in town with DH in tow.
Still heading south, I kept looking over my shoulder at the skyline I was leaving behind. It really is a pretty city. I finally reached "Bat Bridge," and thought about hitting the hiking/biking trail which runs alongside the lake right there. BTW, why do they call this a lake, when it seems more like a river? Anyway, my feet decided against the hike, realizing that the city stroll we had embarked on was longer than intially thought.
Kept on walking, finally reaching the SOCO shopping/dining district I had sought out. I weaved my way in and out of the shops, my favorite being Tesoro. They had some amazing woven paper wall sculptures, which I decided would never make the trip home. I also checked out the cool San Jose Hotel, and couldn't resist photographing the old neon sign for the Austin Motel (blushing...) Finished off my visit to the area at the taco bar at Guero's. The place was packed with people! The tacos were o.k., not as good as at Juanita's, but I did enjoy the people watching and the front row seat to see homemade tortillas being made.
Heading back, I found myself back at Bat Bridge, right around dusk. Nothing! I was disappointed not to see the largest bat colony in the country take flight. Later came to find out that now is when the bats have their young, and don't normally fly at this time of year. Oh well, I'll have to come back.
By this time, I'm hot, my feet are tired, I've already been walking almost 5 hours. Did I mention the humidity? But hey, my time is limited, I have a lot of city yet to cover and I'm no quitter, so...map in hand, I weaved my way through the blocks of the 2nd Street District, then through the Warehouse District, then through the 6th Street District, taking in the sights, sounds and smells of the city preparing for the night ahead. I decided that this Austin night would have to make do without me, so I walked back to my hotel, and called it a very full, very enjoyable day.
One installment (and lots more food) yet to come...
Speaking of old bats...(get it?), I dropped my bags and hit the road on foot. My "must sees" for the day included the South Congress district and the bats at dusk, taking in what I could along the way. I think I did the day justice.
First stop was the capitol building, where I did a self guided tour of the main level. FYI, they do offer free, guided tours every 15 minutes, but that was more than I wanted. Anyway, it is a beautiful building, filled with lots of Texas pride and history. After admiring the history laden floors, the life size portrait of Davey Crockett and the cool, old treasury room, it was off down Congress St., taking in the few shops and restaurants along the way.
Next stop, the Driskill Hotel at Brazos and W. 6th. Wow! Now that's my idea of a hotel! Historic and classically elegant, it's where I'll stay next time I'm in town with DH in tow.
Still heading south, I kept looking over my shoulder at the skyline I was leaving behind. It really is a pretty city. I finally reached "Bat Bridge," and thought about hitting the hiking/biking trail which runs alongside the lake right there. BTW, why do they call this a lake, when it seems more like a river? Anyway, my feet decided against the hike, realizing that the city stroll we had embarked on was longer than intially thought.
Kept on walking, finally reaching the SOCO shopping/dining district I had sought out. I weaved my way in and out of the shops, my favorite being Tesoro. They had some amazing woven paper wall sculptures, which I decided would never make the trip home. I also checked out the cool San Jose Hotel, and couldn't resist photographing the old neon sign for the Austin Motel (blushing...) Finished off my visit to the area at the taco bar at Guero's. The place was packed with people! The tacos were o.k., not as good as at Juanita's, but I did enjoy the people watching and the front row seat to see homemade tortillas being made.
Heading back, I found myself back at Bat Bridge, right around dusk. Nothing! I was disappointed not to see the largest bat colony in the country take flight. Later came to find out that now is when the bats have their young, and don't normally fly at this time of year. Oh well, I'll have to come back.
By this time, I'm hot, my feet are tired, I've already been walking almost 5 hours. Did I mention the humidity? But hey, my time is limited, I have a lot of city yet to cover and I'm no quitter, so...map in hand, I weaved my way through the blocks of the 2nd Street District, then through the Warehouse District, then through the 6th Street District, taking in the sights, sounds and smells of the city preparing for the night ahead. I decided that this Austin night would have to make do without me, so I walked back to my hotel, and called it a very full, very enjoyable day.
One installment (and lots more food) yet to come...
Jul 13th, 2010, 06:59 PM
#5
Great trip report. I love flying in and out of Austin because of the great live music acts performing in the airport. I even get to the airport early and sit and enjoy a drink, maybe a snack and a great music act.
Great Priceline deal too!
Great Priceline deal too!
Jul 13th, 2010, 07:43 PM
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Hi swisshiker. I had no idea what to expect when I went, but your Amy's is like our Cold Stone Creamery. Only Amy's is more mom-n-popish and has the added bonus of the ice cream juggling! Both offer ice cream flavors into which an assortment of toppings are smushed! You must give it a try!
Hi Austin. Yep! I'm hooked!
Hi starrs. I wish I could have flown out of Austin! Unfortunately, the car rental industry's one way drop off fee (in this case, $400) made that cost prohibitive. I had to return to DFW to fly home.
Hi Austin. Yep! I'm hooked!
Hi starrs. I wish I could have flown out of Austin! Unfortunately, the car rental industry's one way drop off fee (in this case, $400) made that cost prohibitive. I had to return to DFW to fly home.
Jul 14th, 2010, 06:53 AM
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kkukura, I love that you and your son hang in Austin! If I lived closer, I'd take my son regularly. He'd love it. Since we live in L.A., we do mother/son trips out this way...San Francisco, Vegas, San Diego, as time permits. Mothers and sons make a great pair!
Jul 14th, 2010, 08:12 AM
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Awoke Thursday morning to rain, which instantly made me grateful I had logged the miles exploring on foot the day before. I'm not one to let a little rain get me down, though it seemed both the hike and outdoor music venues I had so looked forward to weren't meant to be. Oh well, two more reasons to return!
Lazed around a bit and then, map and umbrella in hand, it was time to hit the road. I headed out north this time, no particular destination in mind. It was late, I was hungry, and the incredible aromas wafting into the street from the Clay Pit (Guadalupe at 16th) were just too much to resist. Prior to this, I haven't really cared much for Indian food. Oh.My.God. That's all changed now.
I guess I wasn't the only one enticed by the aromas. The place was packed! It's a casual place, yet has an upscale feel, even with an inexpensive lunch buffet. With the help of a patient waitress, I settled on the Lamb Vindaloo: tender lamb chunks in a curry sauce cooked with onions, bell peppers & potatoes, infused with paprika & tamarind chutney. It was served with naan bread and basmati rice, for $8??? Loved it. This place is a winner.
Lazed around a bit and then, map and umbrella in hand, it was time to hit the road. I headed out north this time, no particular destination in mind. It was late, I was hungry, and the incredible aromas wafting into the street from the Clay Pit (Guadalupe at 16th) were just too much to resist. Prior to this, I haven't really cared much for Indian food. Oh.My.God. That's all changed now.
I guess I wasn't the only one enticed by the aromas. The place was packed! It's a casual place, yet has an upscale feel, even with an inexpensive lunch buffet. With the help of a patient waitress, I settled on the Lamb Vindaloo: tender lamb chunks in a curry sauce cooked with onions, bell peppers & potatoes, infused with paprika & tamarind chutney. It was served with naan bread and basmati rice, for $8??? Loved it. This place is a winner.
Jul 15th, 2010, 05:46 AM
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Now I'm just frustrated. I've twice tried to finish this report, and twice lost my "work" by opening a new window and not being able to get my work back. I'll give it one more try...
Jul 15th, 2010, 06:01 AM
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Great report, thanks! Town Lake (Lady Bird Lake) is called a lake, even though it's actually the Colorado River, because it's dammed up on both sides.
Make sure you highlight and copy your text next time. That way it'll always be there in case it decides to disappear again.
Make sure you highlight and copy your text next time. That way it'll always be there in case it decides to disappear again.
Jul 15th, 2010, 07:51 AM
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O.k., here we go...
Full and content, I headed back out in the rain, to either the Bob Bullock Texas State History Museum or the LBJ Presidential Library. The former won out, as it was only a few blocks away on foot, at Congress and MLK Jr. Blvd., right across from the U.T. Campus. This is a good size museum, with 3 floors of interactive exhibits portraying the history of the state from the time of it's first inhabitants to the present. I think it's good for all ages, except the very young. I most enjoyed the two movies that I saw, one about Texas history, the other about wild Texas weather. FYI, there's also an IMAX theatre here, which I did not attend.
Following 3 hours of Texas history, a little nap was in order! (No offense, Texans!) I lounged in my room, scouring Zagat's and the internet for the perfect locale for dinner. You see, I had a dilemma. In my opinion, no self respecting tourist can visit Austin without taking in some live music. The outdoor venue I had planned on, the Shady Grove, wasn't happening for me due to the rain. And, traveling alone, I didn't feel like sitting in a bar or a club. So, I was intent on finding an indoor venue where I could eat and hear music, killing two birds with one stone.
I chose Lambert's Downtown Barbeque, 2nd at Guadalupe, and I chose well! They tout themselves as "fancy" bbq, and the menu is different than what you'd expect. I made a reservation, and though dining alone, got a great little booth upstairs. The service was great, as was the food. I had country style pork ribs, prepared in a citrus brine, with a fennel & coriander rub, finished in a maple glaze. Doesn't that sound amazing? It was served with an apple & roasted fennel salad. Doesn't that sound amazing? Huge portions, and all for $16. The icing on the cake was that I got to see and hear a fantastic acoustic guitarist, Gary Clark, Jr., while I dined. What a talented guy, and so young! I really enjoyed myself, though I didn't linger after dinner. I wasn't drinking, and felt bad keeping the table while nursing a cup of coffee.
By now, the rain had subsided, so it was back out for a walk. Since I wasn't bar/music hopping tonight, I decided to walk to the venues I had wanted to check out, which were both close by. I checked out Cedar Street on 4th between Lavaca and Congress, and the Elephant Room on Congress at 3rd. Both of these places stay on my list for my next trip.
I'm really glad I decided to take this walk. To me, downtown Austin felt sooooo different at night. It was so alive, so electric, so much energy. Can't wait to return!
The next morning, it was time to pack up and head back to DFW for the trip back to reality. Having time for one last meal, and souvenir shopping for my boys, I had a Texas size waffle, in the shape of Texas(!), at the Driskill Hotel. Ran across the street to the extremely cool Music Shop for a necklace for my kid, and hit Stubb's for a T-shirt for DH, before getting on the road.
In two days, I barely scratched the surface of this great city. I'll be back, for sure!
Full and content, I headed back out in the rain, to either the Bob Bullock Texas State History Museum or the LBJ Presidential Library. The former won out, as it was only a few blocks away on foot, at Congress and MLK Jr. Blvd., right across from the U.T. Campus. This is a good size museum, with 3 floors of interactive exhibits portraying the history of the state from the time of it's first inhabitants to the present. I think it's good for all ages, except the very young. I most enjoyed the two movies that I saw, one about Texas history, the other about wild Texas weather. FYI, there's also an IMAX theatre here, which I did not attend.
Following 3 hours of Texas history, a little nap was in order! (No offense, Texans!) I lounged in my room, scouring Zagat's and the internet for the perfect locale for dinner. You see, I had a dilemma. In my opinion, no self respecting tourist can visit Austin without taking in some live music. The outdoor venue I had planned on, the Shady Grove, wasn't happening for me due to the rain. And, traveling alone, I didn't feel like sitting in a bar or a club. So, I was intent on finding an indoor venue where I could eat and hear music, killing two birds with one stone.
I chose Lambert's Downtown Barbeque, 2nd at Guadalupe, and I chose well! They tout themselves as "fancy" bbq, and the menu is different than what you'd expect. I made a reservation, and though dining alone, got a great little booth upstairs. The service was great, as was the food. I had country style pork ribs, prepared in a citrus brine, with a fennel & coriander rub, finished in a maple glaze. Doesn't that sound amazing? It was served with an apple & roasted fennel salad. Doesn't that sound amazing? Huge portions, and all for $16. The icing on the cake was that I got to see and hear a fantastic acoustic guitarist, Gary Clark, Jr., while I dined. What a talented guy, and so young! I really enjoyed myself, though I didn't linger after dinner. I wasn't drinking, and felt bad keeping the table while nursing a cup of coffee.
By now, the rain had subsided, so it was back out for a walk. Since I wasn't bar/music hopping tonight, I decided to walk to the venues I had wanted to check out, which were both close by. I checked out Cedar Street on 4th between Lavaca and Congress, and the Elephant Room on Congress at 3rd. Both of these places stay on my list for my next trip.
I'm really glad I decided to take this walk. To me, downtown Austin felt sooooo different at night. It was so alive, so electric, so much energy. Can't wait to return!
The next morning, it was time to pack up and head back to DFW for the trip back to reality. Having time for one last meal, and souvenir shopping for my boys, I had a Texas size waffle, in the shape of Texas(!), at the Driskill Hotel. Ran across the street to the extremely cool Music Shop for a necklace for my kid, and hit Stubb's for a T-shirt for DH, before getting on the road.
In two days, I barely scratched the surface of this great city. I'll be back, for sure!
Jul 15th, 2010, 11:08 AM
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AustinTraveler, my husband's business partner goes to the South by Southwest Music Festival each year. Pretty sure we'll be with him in 2011! Will hope for a Fodor's Austin GTG at that time.
Jul 15th, 2010, 12:01 PM
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Iregeo! Enjoyed your trip report. Now I want to go to Austin 
As for losing your work... type your report in Words, save on your desktop, copy to Fodor's, delete report.
When are you coming to SF? We need a reason for another GTG
As for losing your work... type your report in Words, save on your desktop, copy to Fodor's, delete report.
When are you coming to SF? We need a reason for another GTG
Jul 18th, 2010, 05:37 PM
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Irego, I enjoyed reading your trip report. You had an incredible first trip to Austin! I'm a native and I applaud your homework and your great choices. I especially liked that you walked the walk to see the capitol and SoCo and the warehouse district. Come back soon and often as there is much more to see and do! Saige.
Aug 8th, 2010, 06:34 PM
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I just got back from a long weekend in Austin. We had a great time again! My son likes to ride his BMX bike there so while he did that on Friday evening my daughter and I shopped and ate dinner at Whole Foods, and shopped at the Book People(my favorite book store). Saturday morning I took a walking tour of the Bremond Block with the Austin tour company. Like last year, I was the only person on the tour. Elizabeth, my tour guide, was great! Her knowledge of the history of Austin was superb! We spent Saturday afternoon going to Toy Joy, a great (!!) toy store on Guadalupe. My son again hung with BMX friends from Austin. We ate dinner at Banzai, a sushi restaurant. That was my first time trying sushi and it was pretty good. We then had frozen yogurt from a new shop near the restaurant. When we got back in the car and I tried to start it, the engine was dead! Not a good thing for a single Mom from out-of-town! I called AAA and a wrecker driver arrived within 25 minutes. He was able to jump start the car but he advised me to go to an Auto Zone to have my battery checked. With his directions we found the Auto Zone and yes, my battery needed replaced. That gotten done we headed to The City Theater Company on Airport to see Cat On a Hot Tin Roof. The theater is small, seating only 85, so it was fun to be close to the stage. Even my teen-age son and 21 year-old daughter enjoyed it. Today after they slept in a little, my daughter and I went to the Austin Museum of Art to see the contemporary art exhibit. My son rode the 9th street trails. Then we met up at the Texas Chili Parlor for lunch. Before we left for Houston we drove over to see Pembleton Castle which is a house in a neighborhood that looks just like a castle! We then drove up to Mount Bonnell which is the highest spot in Austin and got a beautiful view of the city from one side and Lake Austin from the other. On th way home we stopped at our favorite pit stop- Weikels Bakery, in La Grange(www.weikels.com). We like the cinnamon rolls and kolaches and my daughter likes their rice krispie treats. We are back home in time for my son to have his wisdom teeth removed tomorrow morning. Another great weekend in Austin!!
