It isn't that bad. I'm sure others would disagree, but just take your time and enjoy it, rather than work yourself up into a panic.

I'm the person who think the center line is meant to straddle.

We drove from east to west also. There's really nothing to it from Moab to capitol Reef. Flat.

It's a little bit more from Torrey to Boulder (UT) but not much more.

It get's interesting between Boulder and a few miles past Lower Calf Creek Falls parking lot. "Steep Grade - Sharp Curves is what the signs say).

There are viewpoint pulloffs where you can stop. Drive as slowly as you feel comfortable. There are always those people who think it's a joke because it doesn't bother them and they like to speed on a road like that.

Let them honk and yell and call you names. If you feel comfortable at a slower speed then do it and pull off at the turnouts to let them by. In between, remember that you are in front and they are behind. Too bad for them. You own the road as much as they do.

At the end of the day you'll make it home and they may not.

The scenic drive in Capitol Reef is flat. There was construction on it the last time we were there, so dusty, but not anything to cause fear.

Thanks, both of you, for your replies. We don't mind at all going out of our way to avoid the drama. (I gasp loudly and that makes DH, the driver, even more nervous.) How about, after we overnight in Torrey, we head northwest on 24 to Burrville, then south on 62 to Bryce, our next destination? I think both of us would rather avoid that part below Boulder, pretty though it may be, seriously. I know you both are used to driving in this territory, but we are not. Taking it slowly will not put us at ease. Being that uncomfortable really ruins a trip.

Route 24 from 70 to Capitol Reef is not an issue at all. Lots of flat desert driving, interesting if you are into that (sometimes I get tired of desert, I do like green). 72 is probably closer to your mountain driving dislikes, so don't expect that to be better.

The portion you have heard about "devil's backbone" I'm going to assume is the hogback on hwy 12 south of Boulder between it and Escalante. Even it is not bad. It is seriously 2 min of road with absolutely incredible views. Everyone I have heard from that was nervous about this stretch of road has reported back that it was needless worry and they were enthralled by the scenery. The road is not any more narrow there than anywhere else along the route. Go ahead, as Myer says, and take it slow. Most likely everyone else will be doing the same thing. The ones going fast have probably taken it hundreds of times and so don't need to oggle at the views.

If you are heading to Bryce next and for some reason think missing all that absolutely unique and wonderful scenery would be in your own best interest there is the long way around via Koosharem and Antimony. While not as famous however, please be advised that I'm not sure even that way you will avoid some difficult parts of the road. It is pretty well hard to avoid some stretches when you have mountains to travel through.

Thanks, emalloy, I found your reply about the Scenic Drive road after I posted. Sounds like we can deal with the drive to Capitol Reef Park and Scenic Drive in the Park. That is reassuring.

Thanks, InSandy. If anyone can please add to InSandy's advice about how nerve-wracking, or not, that part of 62 through Koosharem and Antimoney might be, I would be grateful. We would like to make an educated decision.

InSandy,

It's Hell's Backbone and that's not the hogback.

The hogback is the north-south part between Torrey and Boulder. We drove it in the morning and I don't remember it being bad at all. Maybe the memory is going. I think it drops some on both sides but might be pretty straight.

Hell's backbone is a different road. When leaving Boulder instead of going south on Rt12 you go northwest. It's also called Salt Gulch. I don't even know if it has a number. it must.

Go to this web site.
http://www.scenicbyway12.com/

There's a lot of info and a 23 page brochure you can download.

It will either pacify you or scare you a make you go around.

Don't do what's not comfortable for you.

If I remember correctly, the steep grade - sharp curves part isn't very long. That doesn't make it easier if it bothers you. However, if you drive 10-15 miles per hour and stop at the viewpoints for the scenery, you'll get thru it.

Once you get in the area of Hole-in-the-Rock Rd it's flat again.

Myer, I was thinking later maybe the road meggies had heard about Hell's Backbone and got back on to mention that she certainly doesn't need to travel that road. Definitely a different road all together. We went down a few weeks ago to travel that one ourselves but couldn't because of course we picked the one weekend it snowed and we had no desire to try a dirt backroad in the snow and mud.

meggies, you really should take hwy 12. It is an all american scenic byway for a reason, the scenery is one of a kind, and millions travel it every year. It is not a hairpin, scary mountain road at all. The other route down 62 is just rural farms, nothing spectacular at all.

Thanks, Myer and InSandy. I have printed up part of the brochure and I think I will print the whole 23 pages. The beautiful photographs and your reassurance do help in making an educated decision. Maybe we can do this! Thank you.

Yes you can!

The hogback section (the one you'll worry yourself sick about if you think about it...so don't think about it) is just a 2 mile section right before you reach Calf Creek campground and trailhead for the falls - if you are coming from the north. One of the pulloffs lets you see that canyon, which is a great place to hike if you have time. Very sandy trail, but nice payoff at the end.

Thanks! We have decided to go ahead and drive Route 12. We are both very grateful for the input given here.

meggies,

Do drive hwy 12 with confidence. Really, it's NO big deal. think about it this way - even if you live in a totally FLAT state, how often do you drive off the road? Do you really NEED guardrails to stay on the road? Of course not!

Go as slow as you want and stop and pull off to ogle the scenery and take pictures. You will never be sorry you took this road. It's one of the best roads in the world.

Hell's Backbone is a partly graded gravel, part dirt 30 mile detour you don't need to do. I did it once and it was completely worth it, but then, I'm a lady who often travels solo and drives a 4x4. There isn't much that fazes me, although I do use common sense about where, when and how I go.

Hell's Backbone is an absolutely amazing site and I recommend it for anyone going to the area with a 4x4 and time to explore! Very appropriately named.

Have fun. You will love Utah!

Just got back from a week driving all over Hell's Backbone and the trail head roads as well as Route 12. Hell's Backbone isn't scary--its just bone jarring because of all the washboards!!! Highway 12--the hogback is an AMAZING road. BUT, it scares the crap out of me every time I drive the one bad part that everybody talks about. If you are the passenger on that section, close your eyes And for the driver--just drive forward!! Actually--the most dangerous part of the road was going over Boulder Mountain at dusk because of the numerous herds of deer I encountered.

Going slow is ok--just pull out at the numerous pull outs.

Driving in the middle of the road--NOT OK!!! Yeesh, people. Do you realize what you are doing? That forces the oncoming car OFF the road just so you can feel ok. Give me a break!!! If you can't drive on your side of the yellow line, don't drive!

I have a hard time understanding the fear of driving on any road BUT when I took my mother over the Hogsback she was sobbing in the back of my truck, it ruined the day. I worked for a while at the visitor center in Torrey and numerous people said how scared they were of that section of road. The actual Hogsback is about 1/2 mile long, the drops off each side are huge and there are a couple of places where you can see off both sides at once, there are no guard rails. Apart from that section there are a couple of other places between Boulder and Escalante where there are sharp turns and massive drop-offs and the descent to the Escalante River is a narrow cliffside road with a minimal stone wall. As others have said Hell's Backbone is a different road and you can ignore it.
(I believe that Utah Highway 12 is the best road in America both for fun driving and scenery)

Highway 62 from Koosharem to Bryce is a mostly flat road in a valley bottom. Highway 72 is a scenic drive but again has sharp curves and big views, not as big as 12 though.

The scenic drive in Capitol Reef is mostly flat with no drop-offs, the construction is finished and the pavement is perfect.

In an earlier post I recommended a back country tour of Cathedral Valley, be aware that this route is a narrow dirt road that has some drop-offs and a set of switchbacks down a cliff - I haven't lost anybody yet!

Bob,

I drove the Cathedral Valley road loop a few years ago in my Jeep and I sure wouldn't want to do it in a regular car! People don't actually do that do they?!

I was kind of disappointed in the drive and scenery. There were a couple spots that were amazing, but it was a long, slow drive for too little reward in my opinion.

The first two times we drove RT 12, i didn't even know there was such a thing as the Hogsback part, or that it was any different than the rest of it, or that different than many of the other great drives in the SW. And i CAN be a little leery of some heights, like when we did the Going to the Sun road in Glacier, yikes! So it wasn't until people - probably here - started talking about the hogsback, that i made a conscientious point of looking for it the next time. It's truly a wonderful drive and you will love it.

Bob,
You put your mother in the back of your truck? lol.

Your gonna cry? I'll show you--get in the back. OMW. I guess the day was ruined.

Stanton,
I have to admit, I hope I never meet Myer on the road. LOL.

I never gave a second thought about the road myself. I mean, yes its dramatic and there are dropoffs, but its not that big of a deal.

Here's a link to the worst section of The Hogdback which is the scariest part of Hwy 12 between Torrey and Bryce. It doesn't bother me but you be the judge.

http://www.pbase.com/peterb/image/88442508

That's a good picture of it peterboy. And if you can hold on for the two minutes it takes to go along that you'll absolutely love the other three hours.

""Your gonna cry? I'll show you--get in the back. OMW. I guess the day was ruined. "'
LOL

Peterboy,

So good to hear from you! Having a busy spring?
Planning on getting out this way again?

Yes, planting season is here so I'm fully occupied.

Sharon and I going to try to get to the area in September. Possibly into Denver and do a loop into Mexican Hat, up to the Moab area and back.

Maybe i ca write off the trip as a business expense if I visit a few galleries to consign some of my rock art reproductions

http://www.pbase.com/peterb/peteroglyphs

peterboy & sharon,

Seriously there are a couple places in Moab that might work for you. If you got up as far as Park City, heaven knows we have plenty of very high end galleries as well as souvenier shops.

I'd love to meet up with you guys finally, but I'm working on a trip to Sicily and the Aeolian Islands for Sept. It's been a LONG time coming, 7 yrs.

If something changes maybe we can do a mini GTG in Moab!

Happy travels, Dayle

Mini GTG in the back of Bob's Truck?

Thanks Dayle! If we can pull this trip off, I'll post our itinerary here for review. I need me some red rock exposure

See this is 2 days late and meggies has already decided to drive it, but I will second Rt. 12 being not such a big deal. And I am a super sissy, very afraid of heights. Also a control freak, so I do most of the driving (well, as long as we're in a car with the steering wheel on the left) while my husband plays with his Garmin and iPhone (like there's a lot of chance we'll get lost between Capital Reef and Escalante). I'd actually be a lot more afraid if someone else were driving. (And I'd probably be driving anyway, just from the backseat.) I had read some "warnings" but it wasn't actually that bad. I've driven worse in Greece (where people really are straddling the line, if there even is a line) and just as bad in the Appalachians and probably GTSR in Glacier. Maybe my husband would say I was a little edgy because I told him I didn't really want to go back to Boulder to eat at Hell's Backbone Grill that night, then return to Escalante in the dark; personally, I don't think that's as sissy as smart - there's critters in them thar hills and on them thar roads, for one thing. When I think about it, it's funny that I didn't want to drive it at night. My first drive down Chain of Craters Rd. at Hawaii Volcanoes NP was at night. When we headed back down the next day, I got to the top of the first hill and said, "Holy C#%$p, I drove down this in the dark?!" (Maybe that's what "cured" me about mountain driving, though. I realized that what you don't know won't hurt you and all that.)

Dayle, I was suggesting they take a guided tour (I am a guide for an outfitter) Pity you didn't enjoy it, I can show you so many things along the way that there are only a few stretches where you have to listen to me blather on about bentonite and dinosaurs People do indeed try it in their passenger cars, and some get stuck every year, long wait, very expensive tow.

My mother didn't mind being the back of the truck, I put the tailgate up and gave her cushion!

Very funny Bob! Just remember never to run for President. If people frown on Romney putting his dog on top of the family car, I can't wait tohear what they think about Mom in the back,even with cushion.

Those visitors who attempt Cathedral Valley in a car must just go in/out from the eastern end. I can't believe anyone would be dumb enough to to tocross the river in a car??..or would they?

Thanks, Polly. This thread has now become entertaining as well as educational. I think what will really happen is that we will get to Capitol Reef, enjoy what's there, overnight in Torrey and then see how brave we are feeling the next morning. Looks like we will have an option in driving 24 northwest and 62 south.

Dayle--remember that people figure it doesn't matter what they do to a rental car!! My favorite joke is "What's the difference between an SUV from SLC and an Avis rent a car from SLC? The rent a car has been off road." Besides, if they went on that road based on GPS--who knows what they came up with

I don't know, you would certainly hope that someone would have enough common sense NOT to drive across a river (no bridge) in a regular car.....I would love to know if anyone in a regular rental has been pulled out of the Fremont!

Yes, rental cars are pulled out of the river every year - it isn't cheap and doesn't make the rental company happy. When the Fremont is really low it is possible for a regular car to cross but why chance it? Cars also get stuck on the far side of various washes on the Notom Road, some were out there for 3 days a couple of years ago, the people were rescued by the park rangers.

I am the original poster. We have returned from our trip, and I just want to say thanks to all on this thread who gave advice, especially regarding Route 12, from Capitol Reef to Bryce. I think knowing in advance what to expect made the drive much easier and much more pleasant. In negotiating the Hogback, instead of closing my eyes while DH worked to keep the car away from the edge, I took pictures! Route 12 really is a drive not to be missed. Thanks!

Will come back and read the banter later. Just drove this last week - and I can't even remember the section on beautiful/scenic drive 12 that is referred to as the Hogback - that was supposed to be a bit scary. It was all pretty easy driving IMO.

But the most important thing is that with input from Fodorites - it made you feel more comfortable when driving the area. Happy Trails.

<<Route 12 really is a drive not to be missed. Thanks!>>


And that is the only important part ! Glad you enjoyed it.

Meggies,

I'm so glad you had a fun trip and enjoyed Hwy 12. Now you know first hand it's no big deal!

Come back!

Meggies - so glad that you took the opportunity to see Route 12. It really is incredible; one of my favorites!

We're planning a trip for this fall and just decided to go out and back on route 12 (instead of the southern route) even though we're starting from Kanab our 1st night. Can't wait!

So, how about a quick trip report...?