Another Perfect Visit to Paradise: Kauai
Feb 25th, 2015, 10:36 AM
#1
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Another Perfect Visit to Paradise: Kauai
This will be a very brief trip report because I’m getting ready to head out again (to work in Ireland and Holland). I spent almost 5 weeks (Jan. 19th – Feb. 20th) in Orchid Point unit “A” in Princeville, on Kauai’s gorgeous, lush North Shore. Orchid Point is a triplex next door to the very popular Sealodge. It shares the same stunning views—but is a considerably more upscale property—beautifully furnished, and double the size of a Sealodge 2-bedroom unit. My car rental was a “rent-a-wreck”-type vehicle, rented from a private individual at half the cost of the cheapest rental car companies. So I had a fantastic condo—and a crappy old car that got me where I needed to go ☺.
The weather was incredible—the best winter weather I’ve had in 8 or 9 years of coming to Kauai. There was only one rainy-day washout on the “rainy” North Shore (where much of the rain falls at night); a few cloudy days; some days with a mix of very brief showers, clouds, and sun; and MANY days of exquisite sunshine and high temps from the upper 70s to the low 80s. I appreciated it even more, knowing that Nashville and so much of the mainland had more ice and snow than Siberia ;-). And, ohhh .... the sunrises were breathtaking!!!
I’m a writer and I intended this trip as a solitary writing retreat. So I mostly sat on the patio and wrote while watching the amazing birds and whales when I gazed up. A mother and calf stayed close by for a couple of days. On one day they were so close I could hear the splashing! I loved sitting outside and writing at night and watching the stars through the palm trees.
When I needed a break from writing there were two days when I took dogs from the humane society out for field trips—once to the Kauai coffee company and Mahaulepu (one of my favorite places on the island), and once to Salt Pond Beach Park. I’d never been to Salt Pond beach. I learned it’s only named that because it’s near a salt pond. It was pleasant, with lots of local families enjoying the sun and surf, but it’s nothing special by Kauai standards.
I did many walks beside the taro fields, bird watching at the Hanalei Wildlife Reserve. There were lots of nenes (with adorable, fuzzy babies!), coots, moorhens, and koloa ducks. I read that it’s a refuge for more than forty species. It’s a magical spot, not on many tourists’ radar. Heading north, you reach it by turning left at the first one-lane bridge. The parking lot is about a mile down that road.
On several occasions I walked the path from Kealia Beach; walked and waded in the surf at Hanalei Bay; and took lots of walks beside the Princeville golf course to the beach at the St. Regis. I did a spectacular walk from Tunnels Beach (Makua) to Ke’e Beach, visited the Kilauea Lighthouse, and … looked at real estate!
The big thing to report is that I found the mythical “secret” path from Princeville to Anini Beach. All you do is walk the steep path that starts at the Westin. (I wore hiking boots, but several people did it in flip-flops. I think sneakers are enough.) It lets you out at a beautiful beach. As I walked (you can only go to the right) it was absolutely stunning—even by Kauai standards. The water was exceptionally clear and the views were quintessential Hawaii—like a fantasy of the South Pacific. At one point, to avoid the rocks, I walked about a block along the road—then continued along the beach until I reached Anini. That walk was a definite highlight.
I mostly ate in the condo, and bought wonderful fresh produce at the Saturday farmer’s markets in Hanalei and at Kauai Community College just past Lihue. But I had to get several fixes of wonton saimin and BBQ chicken sticks at Hamura’s; a couple of breakfasts of a tropical fruit bowl and a massive banana/mac pancakes at Kountry Kitchen; and fabulous coconut shrimp at the Shrimp Station.
The Kauai Music Festival (that first brought me to Kauai) has moved to the Big Island and is being renamed the Hawaii Music Festival. I’ll be working there June 10 – 13 and will either get my Kauai fix before or after. I’m also thinking about visiting a friend on Maui—even thought I don’t expect to love it as much as Kauai ;-).
I remain hopelessly addicted to Kauai.
The weather was incredible—the best winter weather I’ve had in 8 or 9 years of coming to Kauai. There was only one rainy-day washout on the “rainy” North Shore (where much of the rain falls at night); a few cloudy days; some days with a mix of very brief showers, clouds, and sun; and MANY days of exquisite sunshine and high temps from the upper 70s to the low 80s. I appreciated it even more, knowing that Nashville and so much of the mainland had more ice and snow than Siberia ;-). And, ohhh .... the sunrises were breathtaking!!!
I’m a writer and I intended this trip as a solitary writing retreat. So I mostly sat on the patio and wrote while watching the amazing birds and whales when I gazed up. A mother and calf stayed close by for a couple of days. On one day they were so close I could hear the splashing! I loved sitting outside and writing at night and watching the stars through the palm trees.
When I needed a break from writing there were two days when I took dogs from the humane society out for field trips—once to the Kauai coffee company and Mahaulepu (one of my favorite places on the island), and once to Salt Pond Beach Park. I’d never been to Salt Pond beach. I learned it’s only named that because it’s near a salt pond. It was pleasant, with lots of local families enjoying the sun and surf, but it’s nothing special by Kauai standards.
I did many walks beside the taro fields, bird watching at the Hanalei Wildlife Reserve. There were lots of nenes (with adorable, fuzzy babies!), coots, moorhens, and koloa ducks. I read that it’s a refuge for more than forty species. It’s a magical spot, not on many tourists’ radar. Heading north, you reach it by turning left at the first one-lane bridge. The parking lot is about a mile down that road.
On several occasions I walked the path from Kealia Beach; walked and waded in the surf at Hanalei Bay; and took lots of walks beside the Princeville golf course to the beach at the St. Regis. I did a spectacular walk from Tunnels Beach (Makua) to Ke’e Beach, visited the Kilauea Lighthouse, and … looked at real estate!
The big thing to report is that I found the mythical “secret” path from Princeville to Anini Beach. All you do is walk the steep path that starts at the Westin. (I wore hiking boots, but several people did it in flip-flops. I think sneakers are enough.) It lets you out at a beautiful beach. As I walked (you can only go to the right) it was absolutely stunning—even by Kauai standards. The water was exceptionally clear and the views were quintessential Hawaii—like a fantasy of the South Pacific. At one point, to avoid the rocks, I walked about a block along the road—then continued along the beach until I reached Anini. That walk was a definite highlight.
I mostly ate in the condo, and bought wonderful fresh produce at the Saturday farmer’s markets in Hanalei and at Kauai Community College just past Lihue. But I had to get several fixes of wonton saimin and BBQ chicken sticks at Hamura’s; a couple of breakfasts of a tropical fruit bowl and a massive banana/mac pancakes at Kountry Kitchen; and fabulous coconut shrimp at the Shrimp Station.
The Kauai Music Festival (that first brought me to Kauai) has moved to the Big Island and is being renamed the Hawaii Music Festival. I’ll be working there June 10 – 13 and will either get my Kauai fix before or after. I’m also thinking about visiting a friend on Maui—even thought I don’t expect to love it as much as Kauai ;-).
I remain hopelessly addicted to Kauai.
Feb 26th, 2015, 01:49 PM
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Give me a break, There is nothing mythical or secret about the path down by the Westin. How sad you have already decided not to fall in love with Maui or the island of Hawaii. Glad you didn't loose a dog this time.
Feb 26th, 2015, 03:25 PM
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Nice trip report SongDoc. I'm on Kauai right now! Hanalei to be exact. We must have picked the wrong day to come to the North Shore because it's pouring here right now. We were at Tunnels earlier and it was cloudy and misty but still very beautiful. We managed to make it to Hanalei Coffee Roasters before it started to pour. I'm hoping we get a lot of rainbows after this! We actually saw one above Sleeping Giant on the drive up. It is rather nice though to be sitting here sipping a hot coffee listening to the rain. 100 Xs better than the negative temps on the East Coast! Other than today the weather has been absolutely glorious (we're staying in Poipu). Looks like our day on the North Shore will be cut short so won't be hiking down that secret-not-so-secret path by the Westin. Maybe we'll get some Hanmura Saimin later!
Feb 28th, 2015, 01:05 PM
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'doc's report of the "secret" path reminds me of the story of our first trip to Kauai in '89 when a co-worker of mine gave me painstakingly and excruciatingly details on how to get to "Secret Beach".
The first day we get to Kauai we stop and pick up Post Cards and what to we find? Post cards of Secret Beach and where it's located.
The path 'doc refers to is a place where the Lovely Mrs Kal, MelissaHI and Makai1 took when we all had the good fortune to be on island at the same time about 10 yrs ago.
Still...a GREAT hike no matter the degree of "secretality"!
96 days until we return....
Thx 'doc.
The first day we get to Kauai we stop and pick up Post Cards and what to we find? Post cards of Secret Beach and where it's located.
The path 'doc refers to is a place where the Lovely Mrs Kal, MelissaHI and Makai1 took when we all had the good fortune to be on island at the same time about 10 yrs ago.
Still...a GREAT hike no matter the degree of "secretality"!
96 days until we return....
Thx 'doc.
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