Songdoc

I won’t bore you with the details of the mechanical problems, delayed flights, and missed connections, but I arrived at my hotel in Kauai 37 hours after leaving Nashville. (That included the airline putting me up overnight in Los Angeles—and I was never even supposed to be in Los Angeles!)

I’m staying at the Marriott Courtyard in Kapa’a where I’m about to start teaching at the Kauai Music Festival. They were nice enough to put me in a lovely oceanview room with beautiful views of the ocean and mountains. My preference is the North Shore (where I’ll move after the festival), but this is a good location in terms of being somewhat mid-way between the North and South Shore attractions. My first day, I parked at Kealia Beach and walked the path. It’s a favorite—and it did not disappoint.

Back at Kealia, there were signs posted about dangerous rip currents, but as usual, closer to the rock jetty, the water was calm enough for me to feel safe, and I joined quite a few other swimmers. It was pure bliss after that long, hot walk!!!!! I watched the surfers, doing my best to stay awake. Stocked up on provisions at Safeway (I’ve got a mini fridge in the room) and conked out at 9 (2 AM to my body).

Yesterday was about as good as it gets. Any day that starts with fresh fruit and a banana/macadamia pancake at Kountry Kitchen is off to one heck of a start! OMG, it was soooo good—and one pancake was enough for my big appetite. (Yes, they’re that big!)

I took a friend who’s attending the festival, and who had seen very little of the island. Our first stop was the Humane Society where we played with the cats and chose a doggy to “rent” for the day. She wore her “Adopt Me” vest. (I wore a T-shirt and shorts!) We took “Hoku” with us. Stopped at the Grand Hyatt so my friend could see that gorgeous lobby with the parrots. The bellmen were really nice and brought water for Hoku while we waited outside.

We parked at Shipwreck Beach and walked the trail to Maha’ulepu. In the past, I’ve always driven down that horribly rutted, potholed road, and parked at the beach. But I’ve rented a minivan and there was no way I’d risk taking it on that road (not to mention that it’s specifically forbidden in the rental agreement—as is the road to Polihale—which someone told me has been graded, and is much better).

OMG, those views were absolutely breathtaking—even by Kauai standards. I got to see sections that I’d always missed by parking at the beach. It was very hot, but the views and the stunning color of the water made up for it. We saw four or five enormous honu quite close by with their heads up out of the water, saying “hello.” I took some of the most beautiful photos I’ve ever taken. We never got all the way to the part where I’d typically walk. I think the dog slowed us down a bit, and at the point where we turned back (after at least 90 minutes) I’m not sure I could have found the way to continue on. (We could see the house—and were at the turnoff for the cave. Does anyone know what we would do to continue from there?)

We walked back on the road—past the stables—back to main road. The sun was blazing and there was no shade. But it was an incredible walk.

We ended the perfect day with dinner at Hamura’s Saimin. I don’t think it gets any better. Now, after breakfast back at Kountry Kitchen and a walk on the path by Kealia … it’s time to work!

BuffaloGirl

Songdoc - is that trail fairly easy to walk? We won't be doing anything very adventurous on our trip in October, but I would like to walk this trail as we'll be staying at the Hyatt. Husband will be coming off of 2 surgeries before our trip (one of them for his wrist and hand), so an easy hike is all we're looking for.

Please keep posting on this thread.....I'm getting so excited and love reading your insights on Kauai!

jamie99

Songdoc, hope you are having a great time, isn't your wedding sometime next week? All the best to the both of you.

louistraveler5

Songdoc, tomorrow is the big day! Congratulations, again and I can't wait to read about it!

Songdoc

I've been SO busy playing tour guide and coordinating 12 people--but it's been wonderful. The wedding was everything I could have hoped for. The weather was perfect as the sun sunk into the ocean, and we exchanged our vows on Hanalei Bay. I'm still surrounded with company and will share details after they leave.

sf7307

Congratulations Songdoc! Sounds heavenly.

Shar

Can't wait to read all about it. I can picture it all in my mind now. Congratulations to you both.

Kal

"and we exchanged our vows on Hanalei Bay."

Wow...you married someone who can walk on water, too? O

Seriously, congrats Bruddah.

rncheryl

Waiting for more

Songdoc

<Wow...you married someone who can walk on water, too?>

hehe. Well ... through my eyes .

The shows at the Kauai Music Festival were awesome. Kenneth Makuakane with the Pandanus Club (Na Hoku Hanohano award-winning group, just back from their appearance at Carnegie Hall!) had a male hula troup that was incredible. The women (and a few men) were screaming as if it was Chippendale’s. And of course, I gave a brilliant performance ;-).

I had students attending the festival from Slovenia, Australia, New Zealand, Switzerland, Canada, and all over the mainland. Most of them did not have cars and never left the resort. I couldn’t possibly let them come so far and not see the beauty of the island, so I organized two tours--one north--and one south. (I had rented a minivan to chauffeur my relatives who were attending the wedding.)

The first stop on the "south tour" was Wailua Falls. It was a big hit. Next stop: the Kauai Coffee Company plantation for tastings and a self-guided tour. I love this place. I stocked up on my favorites. (I buy the big bags of unflavored, and Coconut Caramel Crunch at Costco, but they don’t carry all the flavors.)

Next stop: Waimea Canyon and the Kalalau Lookout at Koke’e State Park. One of my students from New Zealand said, “I’m from NZ’s South Island—one of the most spectacular places on Earth, so when they told me Kauai was beautiful, I had low expectations.” He was gasping at the beauty!

We hiked the Canyon Trail. The previous week, someone plunged to their death from that trail. But I think the only way that could possibly happen is if you’re 1) an idiot; 2) being a show-off/daredevil; 3) wasted, or 4) all of the above. The hike was magnificent. The primo views are missed by so many people who go to the waterfall, then turn back. By continuing on a few more minutes, it’s … WOW. Dinner was at Hamura’s saimin and it was a GREAT day.

Tour #2 (the day after the festival ended) headed north. The first stop was Opaeka’a Falls and the sacred area overlooking the Wailua River. Then … the Anini Lighthouse for stunning views, swooping tropicbirds, and vivid blue water.

Back in the car … next stop Hanalei Bay. How could it possibly be so crowded? Parking was almost impossible. Ohhh, it was the day of the Sand Festival. There were fantastic sand sculptures that were judged.

My group of seven wandered away from the crowds to swim in the calm waters and walk along the shore with those majestic mountains as the backdrop. Hurry up—we’ve got another stop to make: Ke’e Beach—as far north as you can go. I didn’t tell anyone about the views and just walked with them along the beach before telling them to turn around. Those magical views of the Napali Cliffs elicited the gasps and OMG’s I’d hoped for. We enjoyed a quick dip in the water, and everyone agreed that Ke'e feels the quintessential Hawaii that they'd fantasized.

The music festival was now officially over, and I moved from the hotel to my home away from home—a condo at Orchid Point (next door to Sealodge) in Princeville, on the North Shore.

To be continued …

louistraveler5

More, Songdoc, more! Oh, how I can't wait to get back again! It is never enough!

After this trip, when is your next time in paradise? My new countdown will soon be revealed...!

tifa2276

What a fantastic time! And congratulations!

wekewoody

"The previous week, someone plunged to their death from that trail. But I think the only way that could possibly happen is if you’re 1) an idiot; 2) being a show-off/daredevil; 3) wasted, or 4) all of the above."

Wow. I sure hope Devin Goetch's family, friends, and hiking companions who witnessed such this horrible accident don't read your tasteless mocking of his death.

Songdoc

<Wow. I sure hope Devin Goetch's family, friends, and hiking companions who witnessed such this horrible accident don't read your tasteless mocking of his death.>

Wekewoody ... I highly doubt that the family or friends of the deceased will read this.

And ... I stand by the fact that the trail is safe. That was my point. It is not a dangerous trail -- unless someone is reckless. I don't want people to think it's a horribly dangerous trail that should be avoided. What should be avoided is stupid, reckless behavior on ANY trail -- and I see it all the time. I had to beg some of my students to get away from the edge--and then firmly demand it, as their tour guide.

Similarly, my nieces and nephews insisted on climbing down to swim in Wailua Falls despite the signs clearly stating that it is dangerous and off limits. I think it is horrible that Devin died--as I think it is heartbreaking that people die every year on trails and rock jetties. I sincerely wish people did not make stupid choices that destroy their own--and other lives. Sorry if my initial wording of that offended.

Songdoc

Pt. 2

My first wedding guest to arrive was … HURRICANE ISELLE!!! OMG. AGGHHH!!! Everything’s going to be ruined; my wedding guests won’t even be able to reach the island; and WE’RE ALL GONNA BE KILLED!!!

As the storm approached news reports urged residents to prepare by having at least one week’s supply of water and non-perishable food. The property manager stopped by to be sure I’d heeded the warnings, and to suggest that I fill the bathtubs with water—for non-drinking purposes.

I bought 35 bottles of water; several gallons of juice; a cooler; 10 cans of tuna; bread; crackers, and enough peanut butter, dried fruit and nuts to feed a herd of elephants. My first guest arrived only hours before Iselle was expected.

The next day the hurricane was downgraded to a tropical storm, and Kauai did not get the brunt of it, but many flights were cancelled. Sadly, there was considerable damage and power outages on the Big Island. It poured incredibly hard through the night, and the entire next day. The following day, the rain passed, and guest #2 (from New Zealand) arrived with no trouble. Whew.

Except for that rainy day, I never had one rainy day in more than 4 weeks on the “rainy” North Shore. However, it did rain many nights, and there were several days where it rained briefly in the morning—then turned sunny. I loved listening to the sound of the rain—and the ocean.

I took my first guests on one of my favorite hikes on the island: the Kuilau Trail—accessed near the arboretum on the East Coast. (Not to be confused with the Kalalau Trail.) It’s rated “moderate,” but I’d rate it toward the “easy” side of moderate. It’s just incredibly beautiful. Soooo lush and green.

Additional wedding guests arrived almost every one of the next few days. I’d rented all three units at Orchid Point—and one at Sealodge—next door. All together we had 9 bedrooms. It was stressful at times (to put it mildly) coordinating meals and activities for our ten guests who ranged in age from their twenties—to eighty-seven. But it was worth it.

In some instances, people did activities on their own. But we all caravanned for fun days at Anini Beach, Hanalei Bay, and walking the path from Kealia Beach—followed by ocean swims.

Several of us did Captain Sundown’s sunset cruise of the Napali Cliffs. This was my third time, and I was still completely blown away by the beauty. Just amazing—and the seas were exceptionally calm. For me, it’s a “must-see.” A niece and nephew did the rafting/sea caves/snorkel tour and loved it – but said the snorkeling was disappointing.

Everyone wanted to attend a luau—despite my doing my best to discourage it. We went en masse to the Smith Family luau. It’s a beautiful setting; the food was tasty for a buffet; and the show was good—good dancing; good costumes; good effects. So, I’m not sure why, but no one seemed very excited by it. I found it sort of boring.

That brings up the main thing I took away from this trip. For me, the best things in Kauai are the natural beauty – NOT the “activities” that you pay for. Some of my guests ziplined; I got roped into doing the luau, and a train ride at Kilohana. Others did the Smith Family cruise to the fern grotto. In my opinion, (and this is my trip report—so I get to call it as I see it) the activities are “OK” – but they can’t compare with soaking in the beauty of Ke’e Beach (pun intended); gazing in awe at Waimea Canyon and the Kalalau Lookout; watching the sunset at Hanalei Bay—or from the lookout near the St. Regis; strolling at the Hanalei Wildlife Reserve; walking the Maha’ulepu Trail; swimming at Lumahai; gasping at the beauty of the waterfalls; or absorbing any of the other natural beauty.

So… you’ve now read about most of my favorite places that I took my guests. I believe the Kalalau Lookout is one of the most spectacular views on earth, so I was terribly disappointed when my caravan arrived to a covering of clouds, and drizzle. After less than fifteen minutes, the clouds parted to reveal a vibrant rainbow projected on the cliffs. OMG. I must have taken twenty pix of that rainbow. It was stunning, and my guests were blown away.

As part of that same trip, we visited Opaeka’a Falls, Wailua Falls, and the Kauai Coffee Company. I was disappointed that no one wanted to hike the Canyon Trail, but I had done it the previous week. We ended with saimin at Hamura’s. Everyone felt it was one of the best days they’d ever had. For me, at times it was a bit like herding cats, but I was so glad I got to share that beauty with the people close to me.

When we got back to the North Shore the stars were putting on an unbelievable show. We could clearly see the Milky Way painted across the sky, surrounded by hundreds and hundreds of visible stars.

Next installment—time for the big day …

kanunu

.....keep it comiing, Doc!

Florida1

Congratulations on your marriage, Songdoc! Sounds like a wonderful celebration and trip.

I have taken notes for my upcoming Thanksgiving trip to Kauai. It will only be a few days, as we are also going to Oahu, but I now know the highlights to hit while there!

Songdoc

I’ve been soooooo busy working out the logistics and booking flights, cars, ferries, hotels, and more for my upcoming nineteen cities and seven-weeks in New Zealand and Australia that I forgot I hadn’t finished this report! Luckily, I got a reminder from someone on the Australia forum.

So, time for the big day …
My biggest concern was the weather. We’d be on the beach at Hanalei Bay. What if there was a sudden downpour? It happens a lot on the North Shore—and you’re not permitted to conduct a wedding on the covered pier.

Someone mentioned, “Oh, something ALWAYS goes wrong at a wedding. It’ll give you a good story to tell years later.”

I didn’t want a good story to tell—and especially not one about the guests and grooms getting drenched in a storm. I worked myself up into a tizzy worrying—but when the time came, there were only a handful of clouds—and they were white and fluffy. Whew.

We gathered on the beach around 6 PM, munched on veggies, hummus, cheeses, olives, and crackers (from Costco) and listened to some of my favorite traditional Hawaiian music by Makana. My nieces and nephews drew a giant heart in the sand—with our initials on it then used a stick to etch two long parallel lines in the sand – our “aisle” to walk down! (I’m barely holding back tears just remembering it!)

At 6:40PM the ceremony began, and the grooms walked down the aisle dressed in matching white linen shirts and beige linen slacks. We assembled close to the surf, with Bali Hai views behind us. It was everything I could have ever hoped for and more. The officiant, Dale Rosenfeld (Joyful Ceremonies) was amazing. The grooms presented beautiful leis to all of our guests. I placed an exquisite, extra special lei around my mother-in-law’s neck.

Before placing leis made of ti leaves and white orchids on each other, we held out our hands and the officiant shaped the leis into hearts. Our leis were open-ended and reached almost to our waists. It was such a beautiful touch.

Dale blew a conch shell to the four winds then we shared sips of coconut milk from a wooden cup, followed by an ancient Hawaiian salt ceremony that blends the families. We exchanged koa wood rings and our first kiss as a married couple, as the sky blazed orange and the last sliver of sun sunk below the horizon.

It was perfect—and utterly surreal. Being of a certain age (58 & 62) this seemed utterly impossible. Same-sex marriage has only been legal in Hawaii for nine months—and back in Nashville, our marriage is not recognized, although we will receive federal protections.

Our reception dinner was in a private alcove at the Westin Hotel’s Nanea restaurant. The centerpiece was a bowl of enormous red roses, and the table was strewn with rose petals and clear glass stones. We sat beside a tiki torch-lit waterfall and feasted on food that everyone raved about. Being a small group, we were able to order off the regular menu. My scallops were fantastic. The presentations were as impressive as the food. They outdid themselves on the desserts—truly extravagant—and enormous.

It was after 10PM when we waddled out, and ended a truly perfect day. Nothing bad happened—and our story had no unexpected surprises—except for good ones.

Mahalo for all the good wishes!

sf7307

That is a wonderful description of what sounds like a fairytale, but I know it was a long time coming, and I'm very happy for you!

rncheryl

Lovely; glad you remembered to share with us