Alaska in August 2012---Glaciers, Wildlike, and hiking in the Sunshine
Aug 30th, 2012, 08:44 AM
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Alaska in August 2012---Glaciers, Wildlike, and hiking in the Sunshine
(I am posting the same report here and on Tripadvisor).
I lived in Alaska in the 1970's, moving away at the end of 1978, and I have not been back. As a major birthday approached, I decided it was time to return, and to take family and friends along for the celebration—a group of 6 in all. We ranged in age from 56 (my little Sis) to 68 (DH), and we all love hiking and outdoor adventure. Since I worked in Denali National Park in 1971, that was to be the focus of our trip; I added the Kenai Peninsula to include more great Alaskan scenery and hiking. I planned the trip for mid-August, choosing fall color and low mosquito count, but knowing that we risked bad weather. As it turned out, we had sunshine on all but the two days we spent driving to Fairbanks and back.
Day 1: We flew from Seattle to Anchorage, a 3-hour flight, arriving around noon. We picked up our rental car at the Enterprise off-site office (took a taxi to get there). We got a great rate on our 2-week rental ($300 total) by reserving 10 months in advance—a tip from this Tripadvisor Alaska forum (thanks, John). Made a quick stop for groceries and salad bar lunch at a Carr’s just off the Seward Highway and were on our way to Seward. We were excited to get there so did not make any of the usual stops along the way, such as Portage Glacier. (I saw this 40 years ago, before it receded back around the corner out of view).
We drove into Seward around 3:30, and the first thing I noticed was the cruise ship Radiance of the Seas at the dock. My son and his family would have been on that ship, meeting us in Seward, but their baby was one day too young on the date of departure to go on a cruise (the minimum age is 6 months, and they count it to the day). We drove through down and south to Lowell Point to our lodging, Alaska Paddle Inn. This was a great choice—the rooms are large and well-equipped, with great views and handcrafted details. The views from the upstairs room (High Tide Room) are fantastic. The downstairs room (Low Tide Room) comfortably accommodated four. Both rooms have really nice walk-in showers. The hosts provide food to make your own breakfast.
We went for a walk along the beach while we waited for our friends to arrive, and spotted sea otters in the water right offshore. First wildlife! Looking back, I wish we had used this time to go to the Alaska Sealife Center, which was open until 6:30 pm, as that was our only chance to see it. But it was nice to be outside at the end of a long travel day.
Dinner at Chinook’s was next. The food was OK (everyone who ordered salmon said it was overcooked), but we had a great view of the docks and the fish-cleaning area from our corner window table. The fish-cleaning operation is impressive—very fast and very clean. Lots of happy people were going home with halibut filets in their coolers. After dinner we wandered around the docks of the Small Boat Harbor, admiring the boats and just generally enjoying the balmy evening like everyone else. Then it was home to sleep.
Day 2: the Harding Icefield hike. We got up early to drive to the Exit Glacier visitor center and join the ranger-led hike. This is a great option if you are uncertain about hiking in bear country or worried about losing the trail. We weren’t in either of those categories, but joined the hike as it was Saturday and we enjoyed the nature talks along the way. We split off on our own after lunch to go ahead of the group as our pace is a bit faster.
This is a fantastic hike (I suppose I use that word too much but it is hard to find enough superlatives to describe our trip!) We were blessed with a clear and sunny day—the best of the summer, according to the ranger. I was surprised and pleased to find lots of wildflowers blooming in the meadows once we got above the forest—white heather, yellow heather, violets, monkshood, and lots more. Then the ground became barren rock, and then we were hiking on snow. All the while with views over Exit Glacier to our left. There were goats near the top and a few marmots here and there, but no bears.
We stopped at the fish market on the way back through town to buy some salmon for dinner. Alan, our host, let us use the gas grill, and with salad and steamed veggies we had a sumptuous meal. The salmon was cooked to perfection, thanks to the three guy-chefs.
Days 3, 4, 5: Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge. Here we parted company for a short time. Four of us went to this wilderness lodge in Kenai Fjords National Park, the other two headed to Homer for a couple of days. We were scheduled to meet up in Girdwood on the evening of Day 5.
http://www.kenaifjordsglacierlodge.com/
We met our boat, the Wildlander at 9:30 for the 4+ hour trip out to the lodge, the start of our 3-day, 2-night adventure. I have to say I was very impressed with the whole operation, from the boat to the lodge and cabins to the guides to the food. The cruise on the way out stops for wildlife viewing (humpback whales, orcas, dolphins, seal lines, sea otters, birds) and visits Horton Glacier up close before pulling up on the beach in Aialik Bay to drop us off. There were only twelve us us, plus captain and crew, on the boat so it felt very personal. Lodge staff met us at the boat and transported our luggage to the cabins while we walked the half-mile to the lodge.
The Glacier Lodge is nearly new; this is its fourth season of operation. They have sixteen private cabins strung out along a lagoon, all facing Pederson Glacier across the lagoon. Meals are served in the main lodge, which also has a bar and lounge area with sofas, and a back deck with the equipment you need for kayaking or canoeing. The food is fantastic (there’s that word again) and would rate highly even in a big city. Given the remote location of the lodge and the limited access, they do an amazing job.
The main activity here is kayaking, although there are a few hiking trails as well. On our full day, we opted for the 6-hour kayak trip to Aialik Glacier. We were provided with double kayaks and all equipment (sprayskirts, life vests, dry bags for our lunch and extra clothes) and set off with our two guides, Meher and Katie. I can’t even begin to describe the thrill of kayaking on that glassy-smooth fjord, approaching the glacier and then sliding in the floating ice. We stayed a good half-mile away from the face of the glacier for safety, but even there it appeared enormous. We rafted up, joining the 6 kayaks, and drifted in quiet while we watched for calving from the glacier, and kept a lookout for icebergs. While the plastic kayaks are not likely to be damaged in hitting an ice chunk, the guides warned that the larger ones (over 4 feet in diameter) can suddenly flip, causing waves that can swamp a kayak. This is more likely on a warm day like we had, as the iceberg melts and changes shape. Indeed we saw a number of them do this—fortunately not close by. We returned to the lodge in plenty of time to shower and relax before another tasty dinner.
Breakfast on our departure day was so good we asked for the recipes. Turns out they have a cookbook, so we each bought one as a souvenir. Departure is not until 2 or 3 pm, when the boat arrives, so we had time for another activity. Sis and her husband chose another kayak trip across the bay to a waterfall; we opted for a canoe trip across the lagoon and hike to the face of the glacier. The highlight was the bear we saw from the canoe on the return. There are 8 or 9 black bears in this area, and they are commonly seen by lodge guests, but this one was really close—we drifted alongside for 10 minutes or so while he went about his bear business (eating), totally unconcerned with our presence.
We had two real treats on the boat ride out—a pod of orcas feeding nearby, breaching and spyhopping, coming quite close to the boat as we drifted with engine off. The captain said it was one of the best orca encounters he had experienced. And then, as we entered Resurrection Bay, a school of dolphins met us and played in the boat wake for a good 20 minutes. The ones at the bow were amazing—zooming this way and that, jumping and diving, racing the boat. We laughed so hard it hurt, and my husband got a bit of it in a movie.
The boat returns to Seward in time for the evening train, if you are taking that. But we had our car, so just hopped in that and headed to our next stop, Girdwood (Mt. Alyeska Ski Resort) about a 2-hour drive back toward Anchorage. We expected to meet our friends there, returning from Homer, and we had a house reserved (Timberline Drive B&B) for the next two nights. I planned this stop to break up the drive between Seward/Homer and Denali, and to do some hiking (and laundry, as we were at the half-way point of our trip).
When we got within cell-phone range at Girdwood, there was a message from our friends that went something like this: “I hope it is OK if we don’t meet you in Girdwood tonight. We have decided to spend the rest of our lives in Homer. . . Or at least another day. Tony went fishing today and caught a nice halibut, and we’ll show up tomorrow night with halibut and vegetables for dinner.” Can’t argue with that!
So we started a load of laundry, showered, and drove to Jack Sprat for dinner. We sat outside on the deck, bug-free since this was August, and enjoyed some very good food, mostly local and all well-prepared.
To be continued. . .
I lived in Alaska in the 1970's, moving away at the end of 1978, and I have not been back. As a major birthday approached, I decided it was time to return, and to take family and friends along for the celebration—a group of 6 in all. We ranged in age from 56 (my little Sis) to 68 (DH), and we all love hiking and outdoor adventure. Since I worked in Denali National Park in 1971, that was to be the focus of our trip; I added the Kenai Peninsula to include more great Alaskan scenery and hiking. I planned the trip for mid-August, choosing fall color and low mosquito count, but knowing that we risked bad weather. As it turned out, we had sunshine on all but the two days we spent driving to Fairbanks and back.
Day 1: We flew from Seattle to Anchorage, a 3-hour flight, arriving around noon. We picked up our rental car at the Enterprise off-site office (took a taxi to get there). We got a great rate on our 2-week rental ($300 total) by reserving 10 months in advance—a tip from this Tripadvisor Alaska forum (thanks, John). Made a quick stop for groceries and salad bar lunch at a Carr’s just off the Seward Highway and were on our way to Seward. We were excited to get there so did not make any of the usual stops along the way, such as Portage Glacier. (I saw this 40 years ago, before it receded back around the corner out of view).
We drove into Seward around 3:30, and the first thing I noticed was the cruise ship Radiance of the Seas at the dock. My son and his family would have been on that ship, meeting us in Seward, but their baby was one day too young on the date of departure to go on a cruise (the minimum age is 6 months, and they count it to the day). We drove through down and south to Lowell Point to our lodging, Alaska Paddle Inn. This was a great choice—the rooms are large and well-equipped, with great views and handcrafted details. The views from the upstairs room (High Tide Room) are fantastic. The downstairs room (Low Tide Room) comfortably accommodated four. Both rooms have really nice walk-in showers. The hosts provide food to make your own breakfast.
We went for a walk along the beach while we waited for our friends to arrive, and spotted sea otters in the water right offshore. First wildlife! Looking back, I wish we had used this time to go to the Alaska Sealife Center, which was open until 6:30 pm, as that was our only chance to see it. But it was nice to be outside at the end of a long travel day.
Dinner at Chinook’s was next. The food was OK (everyone who ordered salmon said it was overcooked), but we had a great view of the docks and the fish-cleaning area from our corner window table. The fish-cleaning operation is impressive—very fast and very clean. Lots of happy people were going home with halibut filets in their coolers. After dinner we wandered around the docks of the Small Boat Harbor, admiring the boats and just generally enjoying the balmy evening like everyone else. Then it was home to sleep.
Day 2: the Harding Icefield hike. We got up early to drive to the Exit Glacier visitor center and join the ranger-led hike. This is a great option if you are uncertain about hiking in bear country or worried about losing the trail. We weren’t in either of those categories, but joined the hike as it was Saturday and we enjoyed the nature talks along the way. We split off on our own after lunch to go ahead of the group as our pace is a bit faster.
This is a fantastic hike (I suppose I use that word too much but it is hard to find enough superlatives to describe our trip!) We were blessed with a clear and sunny day—the best of the summer, according to the ranger. I was surprised and pleased to find lots of wildflowers blooming in the meadows once we got above the forest—white heather, yellow heather, violets, monkshood, and lots more. Then the ground became barren rock, and then we were hiking on snow. All the while with views over Exit Glacier to our left. There were goats near the top and a few marmots here and there, but no bears.
We stopped at the fish market on the way back through town to buy some salmon for dinner. Alan, our host, let us use the gas grill, and with salad and steamed veggies we had a sumptuous meal. The salmon was cooked to perfection, thanks to the three guy-chefs.
Days 3, 4, 5: Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge. Here we parted company for a short time. Four of us went to this wilderness lodge in Kenai Fjords National Park, the other two headed to Homer for a couple of days. We were scheduled to meet up in Girdwood on the evening of Day 5.
http://www.kenaifjordsglacierlodge.com/
We met our boat, the Wildlander at 9:30 for the 4+ hour trip out to the lodge, the start of our 3-day, 2-night adventure. I have to say I was very impressed with the whole operation, from the boat to the lodge and cabins to the guides to the food. The cruise on the way out stops for wildlife viewing (humpback whales, orcas, dolphins, seal lines, sea otters, birds) and visits Horton Glacier up close before pulling up on the beach in Aialik Bay to drop us off. There were only twelve us us, plus captain and crew, on the boat so it felt very personal. Lodge staff met us at the boat and transported our luggage to the cabins while we walked the half-mile to the lodge.
The Glacier Lodge is nearly new; this is its fourth season of operation. They have sixteen private cabins strung out along a lagoon, all facing Pederson Glacier across the lagoon. Meals are served in the main lodge, which also has a bar and lounge area with sofas, and a back deck with the equipment you need for kayaking or canoeing. The food is fantastic (there’s that word again) and would rate highly even in a big city. Given the remote location of the lodge and the limited access, they do an amazing job.
The main activity here is kayaking, although there are a few hiking trails as well. On our full day, we opted for the 6-hour kayak trip to Aialik Glacier. We were provided with double kayaks and all equipment (sprayskirts, life vests, dry bags for our lunch and extra clothes) and set off with our two guides, Meher and Katie. I can’t even begin to describe the thrill of kayaking on that glassy-smooth fjord, approaching the glacier and then sliding in the floating ice. We stayed a good half-mile away from the face of the glacier for safety, but even there it appeared enormous. We rafted up, joining the 6 kayaks, and drifted in quiet while we watched for calving from the glacier, and kept a lookout for icebergs. While the plastic kayaks are not likely to be damaged in hitting an ice chunk, the guides warned that the larger ones (over 4 feet in diameter) can suddenly flip, causing waves that can swamp a kayak. This is more likely on a warm day like we had, as the iceberg melts and changes shape. Indeed we saw a number of them do this—fortunately not close by. We returned to the lodge in plenty of time to shower and relax before another tasty dinner.
Breakfast on our departure day was so good we asked for the recipes. Turns out they have a cookbook, so we each bought one as a souvenir. Departure is not until 2 or 3 pm, when the boat arrives, so we had time for another activity. Sis and her husband chose another kayak trip across the bay to a waterfall; we opted for a canoe trip across the lagoon and hike to the face of the glacier. The highlight was the bear we saw from the canoe on the return. There are 8 or 9 black bears in this area, and they are commonly seen by lodge guests, but this one was really close—we drifted alongside for 10 minutes or so while he went about his bear business (eating), totally unconcerned with our presence.
We had two real treats on the boat ride out—a pod of orcas feeding nearby, breaching and spyhopping, coming quite close to the boat as we drifted with engine off. The captain said it was one of the best orca encounters he had experienced. And then, as we entered Resurrection Bay, a school of dolphins met us and played in the boat wake for a good 20 minutes. The ones at the bow were amazing—zooming this way and that, jumping and diving, racing the boat. We laughed so hard it hurt, and my husband got a bit of it in a movie.
The boat returns to Seward in time for the evening train, if you are taking that. But we had our car, so just hopped in that and headed to our next stop, Girdwood (Mt. Alyeska Ski Resort) about a 2-hour drive back toward Anchorage. We expected to meet our friends there, returning from Homer, and we had a house reserved (Timberline Drive B&B) for the next two nights. I planned this stop to break up the drive between Seward/Homer and Denali, and to do some hiking (and laundry, as we were at the half-way point of our trip).
When we got within cell-phone range at Girdwood, there was a message from our friends that went something like this: “I hope it is OK if we don’t meet you in Girdwood tonight. We have decided to spend the rest of our lives in Homer. . . Or at least another day. Tony went fishing today and caught a nice halibut, and we’ll show up tomorrow night with halibut and vegetables for dinner.” Can’t argue with that!
So we started a load of laundry, showered, and drove to Jack Sprat for dinner. We sat outside on the deck, bug-free since this was August, and enjoyed some very good food, mostly local and all well-prepared.
To be continued. . .
Aug 30th, 2012, 03:52 PM
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Thanks for sharing your trip. I so want to visit Alaska next summer and am still trying to get my husband excited.
Can't wait to read the rest of your report--and would also love to know what your friends did in Homer.
A stay at Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge has been on my "dream trip" list. Wow!
Can't wait to read the rest of your report--and would also love to know what your friends did in Homer.
A stay at Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge has been on my "dream trip" list. Wow!
Sep 4th, 2012, 02:38 PM
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Day 6: We came to Girdwood to hike, but had not chosen in advance among three possible hikes: Crow Pass, Winner Creek, or to the Alyeska tram. When we woke to the sound of rain dripping from the eaves of our rental house onto the deck, our choice was clear. Winner Creek would be the best for a hike in the rain. But by the time we had breakfast, packed up for the hike, and drove to the trailhead the rain had stopped. So we decided to do Winner Creek and then, if the weather obliged, head up to the top of the tram.
The Winner Creek trail provides a delightful hike through rainforest which looks a lot like the rainforests we have here in Washington. Much of the first part is on boardwalk to protect the soggy ground and plants, but it is still open to bicycles, which would be a lot of fun. It is about 2.5 nearly-level miles to the highlight, the hand-powered cablecar that crosses the creek, at a point fairly high above a scenic gorge and rushing rapids. I am too height-averse to get in that cablecar, but everyone else did, and we took photos of each other as well as of the group below us, getting ready to put in for a raft trip. They took a fairly long time getting suited up and then receiving instruction, so we assumed this was one of the whitewater trips you can book in Girdwood. Looks like fun—maybe next time!
By the time we got back to the trailhead it was lunchtime, so we found decent sandwiches in the hotel there and paused to eat and beverage up before starting up to the top of the tram. This was on the North Face trail, which ascends 2200 feet in 2.2 miles. That sounds like a normal 1000 feet per mile gradient, but this trail was flat in some places and VERY steep in others—tough for people with short legs like me. Signs at the bottom warn of moose and bears, but we saw no wildlife other than the flightseeing helicopters going all over the place. The trail starts in forest, passes through brush and tall grass (fortunately well cleared from the trail) and then breaks out into alpine meadows with wildflowers and great views.
We reached the top in 1.5 hours, and the guys were ready for a beer (or in my husband’s case a Negroni, his new favorite). But alas, the bar was “closed for the season”—on August 15?? We decided that it was too early in the day for alcohol anyway (sour grapes) and went into the Roundhouse shop for a look around. They had on display some artifacts from the early days of skiing at Alyeska, including the exact same Head Standard Skis with Marker cable bindings that I used to ski Alyeska in 1972. Now there’s how to make a person feel old—display the gear she used in her youth as some kind of quaint antique. Oh well—I’ve had people offer to buy my all-wood XC skis right off my feet when I’m out skiing here in Washington. They wanted them to decorate their ski cabin. No thanks, I said.
We caught the tram back down (free if you hiked up, otherwise I think it is $20 to ride) and went home to wait for our friends and the Homer Halibut. Dinner was excellent. Afterwards, on the recommendation of our landlord, we walked up to the end of the road and found the short trail to Virgin Creek Falls:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNIdl5AF4co
It is small but really lovely, and there were several other people out enjoying the evening too. In fact we noticed from the house that there is a constant parade of trail-runners going up and down our road, so there must be a loop trail one can do, including the falls. Maybe next time. It was time for bed after two hikes and a tummy full of halibut (and a bit of wine).
Day 7: Today we drive to the Denali park entrance, to be ready to meet the bus to Camp Denali by noon the following day. The drive was uneventful but clouds obscured any views of Denali on the way. I had booked three cabins at Carlo Creek cabins, at Mile 224. This is one of several alternatives to the monstrosities at Glitter Gulch, but considerably less expensive than some of the other cabin places. The cabins were clean and comfortable, and apart from the road noise in Cabin 1, which is pretty close to the highway, we had no complaints. I would recommend Cabin 5 if you wish to stay there.
After checking in we drove the rest of the way to the park to check out the visitor center area. I tried to find the location of the old hotel where I worked, the one that burned down in 1972, but I could not recognize any landmarks. Everything but the railroad depot is new, and even that has completely changed to accommodate the tons of tourists who arrive in the special cars provided by the cruise lines. I think they must have built the Visitor Center where the hotel used to stand, but I’m not sure. We walked around for a couple of hours, just enjoying being out of the car after the long drive, and then headed back to Carlo Creek. Dinner at the Creekside Café across the highway was very good—unpretentious, but delicious. (We tried the Perch first, but were advised it was “closed for the season”, just like the bar at Alyeska. Is August 16 really that late in the season? It didn’t feel like it—everywhere we went was full).
Day 8: the Denali adventure begins! Camp Denali is one of several wilderness lodges out past Wonder lake, near the end of the road. In my opinion it is by far the best, but it is also the most expensive (along with its sister North Face lodge, which is run by the same family). We felt it was well worth the money, but if the price looks too steep, consider one of the other lodges in the area—Kantishna Roadhouse, Denali Backcountry Lodge, or the Skyline Lodge, which is the least expensive. However you go about it, staying deep in the park is well worth it if you have the time. We had 3 nights to spend there (the minimum stay at Camp Denali). Other lodges allow shorter stays.
Camp Denali transports you out there on their own well-appointed and comfortable buses, with a “wildlife tour” on the way. That is, the driver gives short lectures on natural history and wildlife, and stops every time an animal such as bear moose, caribou, etc. is spotted. (A note to those who are not aware of this: there is only one road into Denali park, and it is closed to private vehicles, with limited exceptions to campers (partway) and winners of the September road lottery. All others go by bus of various types.)
We left park headquarters under heavily clouded skies, which just seemed to make the emerging fall colors even better. I won’t go into animal by animal detail on the wildlife we saw; suffice it to say there were several stops for bears and caribou, but no sheep at all and no moose until wonder lake (no surprise there). The closest bear was just below the parking at Eielson visitor Center and he was really close—40 or 50 yards. Fortunately he was busy in a berry patch and did not seem to mind being photographed.
The bus stops several times at restrooms to break up the long journey (90+ miles). And we had a fine picnic dinner by a river on the way, with imaginative and beautifully-prepared dishes like smoked salmon, house-cured pickled vegetables, hummus and crackers, homemade bread, gourmet cheeses, and some home-grown vegetables from the Camp Denali greenhouse.
The sky started to clear as we got deeper and deeper into the park, and as we left Eielson Visitor Center the clouds around Denali started to part a bit, giving peek-a-boo views of parts of the mountain. Our driver stopped the bus from time to time as we headed toward Wonder lake so we could get some “insurance” shots with our cameras, in case the clouds closed in again. But it just kept getting better and better. When we came to the aptly named Reflection Pond, the Mountain was almost in full view, standing in a deep blue sky, and reflected in the pond. Everyone crowded to the bus windows, people sliding over to make room, with camera clicking away like crazy to capture this rare sight—Denali in full glory, in double.
At the far end of Wonder Lake the road curves to the left, and as we came around that corner. . .
To be continued!
The Winner Creek trail provides a delightful hike through rainforest which looks a lot like the rainforests we have here in Washington. Much of the first part is on boardwalk to protect the soggy ground and plants, but it is still open to bicycles, which would be a lot of fun. It is about 2.5 nearly-level miles to the highlight, the hand-powered cablecar that crosses the creek, at a point fairly high above a scenic gorge and rushing rapids. I am too height-averse to get in that cablecar, but everyone else did, and we took photos of each other as well as of the group below us, getting ready to put in for a raft trip. They took a fairly long time getting suited up and then receiving instruction, so we assumed this was one of the whitewater trips you can book in Girdwood. Looks like fun—maybe next time!
By the time we got back to the trailhead it was lunchtime, so we found decent sandwiches in the hotel there and paused to eat and beverage up before starting up to the top of the tram. This was on the North Face trail, which ascends 2200 feet in 2.2 miles. That sounds like a normal 1000 feet per mile gradient, but this trail was flat in some places and VERY steep in others—tough for people with short legs like me. Signs at the bottom warn of moose and bears, but we saw no wildlife other than the flightseeing helicopters going all over the place. The trail starts in forest, passes through brush and tall grass (fortunately well cleared from the trail) and then breaks out into alpine meadows with wildflowers and great views.
We reached the top in 1.5 hours, and the guys were ready for a beer (or in my husband’s case a Negroni, his new favorite). But alas, the bar was “closed for the season”—on August 15?? We decided that it was too early in the day for alcohol anyway (sour grapes) and went into the Roundhouse shop for a look around. They had on display some artifacts from the early days of skiing at Alyeska, including the exact same Head Standard Skis with Marker cable bindings that I used to ski Alyeska in 1972. Now there’s how to make a person feel old—display the gear she used in her youth as some kind of quaint antique. Oh well—I’ve had people offer to buy my all-wood XC skis right off my feet when I’m out skiing here in Washington. They wanted them to decorate their ski cabin. No thanks, I said.
We caught the tram back down (free if you hiked up, otherwise I think it is $20 to ride) and went home to wait for our friends and the Homer Halibut. Dinner was excellent. Afterwards, on the recommendation of our landlord, we walked up to the end of the road and found the short trail to Virgin Creek Falls:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNIdl5AF4co
It is small but really lovely, and there were several other people out enjoying the evening too. In fact we noticed from the house that there is a constant parade of trail-runners going up and down our road, so there must be a loop trail one can do, including the falls. Maybe next time. It was time for bed after two hikes and a tummy full of halibut (and a bit of wine).
Day 7: Today we drive to the Denali park entrance, to be ready to meet the bus to Camp Denali by noon the following day. The drive was uneventful but clouds obscured any views of Denali on the way. I had booked three cabins at Carlo Creek cabins, at Mile 224. This is one of several alternatives to the monstrosities at Glitter Gulch, but considerably less expensive than some of the other cabin places. The cabins were clean and comfortable, and apart from the road noise in Cabin 1, which is pretty close to the highway, we had no complaints. I would recommend Cabin 5 if you wish to stay there.
After checking in we drove the rest of the way to the park to check out the visitor center area. I tried to find the location of the old hotel where I worked, the one that burned down in 1972, but I could not recognize any landmarks. Everything but the railroad depot is new, and even that has completely changed to accommodate the tons of tourists who arrive in the special cars provided by the cruise lines. I think they must have built the Visitor Center where the hotel used to stand, but I’m not sure. We walked around for a couple of hours, just enjoying being out of the car after the long drive, and then headed back to Carlo Creek. Dinner at the Creekside Café across the highway was very good—unpretentious, but delicious. (We tried the Perch first, but were advised it was “closed for the season”, just like the bar at Alyeska. Is August 16 really that late in the season? It didn’t feel like it—everywhere we went was full).
Day 8: the Denali adventure begins! Camp Denali is one of several wilderness lodges out past Wonder lake, near the end of the road. In my opinion it is by far the best, but it is also the most expensive (along with its sister North Face lodge, which is run by the same family). We felt it was well worth the money, but if the price looks too steep, consider one of the other lodges in the area—Kantishna Roadhouse, Denali Backcountry Lodge, or the Skyline Lodge, which is the least expensive. However you go about it, staying deep in the park is well worth it if you have the time. We had 3 nights to spend there (the minimum stay at Camp Denali). Other lodges allow shorter stays.
Camp Denali transports you out there on their own well-appointed and comfortable buses, with a “wildlife tour” on the way. That is, the driver gives short lectures on natural history and wildlife, and stops every time an animal such as bear moose, caribou, etc. is spotted. (A note to those who are not aware of this: there is only one road into Denali park, and it is closed to private vehicles, with limited exceptions to campers (partway) and winners of the September road lottery. All others go by bus of various types.)
We left park headquarters under heavily clouded skies, which just seemed to make the emerging fall colors even better. I won’t go into animal by animal detail on the wildlife we saw; suffice it to say there were several stops for bears and caribou, but no sheep at all and no moose until wonder lake (no surprise there). The closest bear was just below the parking at Eielson visitor Center and he was really close—40 or 50 yards. Fortunately he was busy in a berry patch and did not seem to mind being photographed.
The bus stops several times at restrooms to break up the long journey (90+ miles). And we had a fine picnic dinner by a river on the way, with imaginative and beautifully-prepared dishes like smoked salmon, house-cured pickled vegetables, hummus and crackers, homemade bread, gourmet cheeses, and some home-grown vegetables from the Camp Denali greenhouse.
The sky started to clear as we got deeper and deeper into the park, and as we left Eielson Visitor Center the clouds around Denali started to part a bit, giving peek-a-boo views of parts of the mountain. Our driver stopped the bus from time to time as we headed toward Wonder lake so we could get some “insurance” shots with our cameras, in case the clouds closed in again. But it just kept getting better and better. When we came to the aptly named Reflection Pond, the Mountain was almost in full view, standing in a deep blue sky, and reflected in the pond. Everyone crowded to the bus windows, people sliding over to make room, with camera clicking away like crazy to capture this rare sight—Denali in full glory, in double.
At the far end of Wonder Lake the road curves to the left, and as we came around that corner. . .
To be continued!
Sep 11th, 2012, 08:15 PM
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LindainOhio-- this would be a great trip for you and your friends. I will invite you if we do it again!
To the rest--I apologize for the slow pace. I have new grand babies ( yes, plural, twins) and have been preoccupied with them on weekends and other days as well. They are adorable and it is hard to pay attention to other things. Hope to get back to the trip report tomorrow. . .
To the rest--I apologize for the slow pace. I have new grand babies ( yes, plural, twins) and have been preoccupied with them on weekends and other days as well. They are adorable and it is hard to pay attention to other things. Hope to get back to the trip report tomorrow. . .
Sep 11th, 2012, 08:44 PM
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OK, a bit more. We came around the corner at the end of Wonder Lake and there was the ultimate Denali picture: Denali glowing whienin the late day sunshine, Wonder Lake darkened a bit in the foreground, and a cow moose standing in the water just 30 yards from us. It was the quintessential Denali photo and so perfect we burst out laughing. After leaving the park entrance under heavy clouds with no expectation of even seeing Denali, this was too much.
It was another 15 minutes and a hill climb to Camp Denali, where we were warmly welcomed with dessert, and after introductions we were escorted to our cabins, where our luggage had already been deposited by staff. Our group of 6 ( 3 couples) had adjacent cabins, but they were far enough apart to be very private. Each has an unobstructed view toward Denali.
The cabins have no electricity or running water inside, but are totally comfortable. If you are out there in the wilderness, there is no more comfortable place to be. Every detail has been considered. The cabins have propane lights which are easily lit with a match ( provided). If you need heat, which we did not, the wood stove is ready to go. At your door is a spigot with plenty of water ( cold) which you can heat on the gas burner for coffee, tea or washing. Each cabin has it's own private outhouse which is spotlessly clean and free of odor or other issues usually asssociatee with outhouses. And if you don't like that, there are flush toilets in the main lodge and in the shower house, where you will find comfortable hot showers and comfy towels whenever you want.
Ok, more tomorrow.
It was another 15 minutes and a hill climb to Camp Denali, where we were warmly welcomed with dessert, and after introductions we were escorted to our cabins, where our luggage had already been deposited by staff. Our group of 6 ( 3 couples) had adjacent cabins, but they were far enough apart to be very private. Each has an unobstructed view toward Denali.
The cabins have no electricity or running water inside, but are totally comfortable. If you are out there in the wilderness, there is no more comfortable place to be. Every detail has been considered. The cabins have propane lights which are easily lit with a match ( provided). If you need heat, which we did not, the wood stove is ready to go. At your door is a spigot with plenty of water ( cold) which you can heat on the gas burner for coffee, tea or washing. Each cabin has it's own private outhouse which is spotlessly clean and free of odor or other issues usually asssociatee with outhouses. And if you don't like that, there are flush toilets in the main lodge and in the shower house, where you will find comfortable hot showers and comfy towels whenever you want.
Ok, more tomorrow.
Sep 14th, 2012, 12:12 PM
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Day 9: I woke around 6, and seeing greyish-white outside (without my glasses) I assumed it was overcast and rolled over for a bit more sleep. Woke again a half-hour later as sun seemed to be hitting the side windows of the cabin. I sat up and reached for my glasses and was greeted by the most amazing sight. The white I saw earlier was Denali, standing clear and bright in a cloudless sky. I was so excited I woke my husband, jumped out of bed, and put on a jacket to go outside and have a better look. It was gorgeous, the mountain standing out clearly against the blue sky, not a cloud in sight. I took photos from our porch and (shhhh!) also from inside the outhouse, the picture framed by the heart-shaped cutout in the door (no moons here).
We lit the burner under the kettle (filled the night before) for face-washing and to make a cup of tea, which I enjoyed sitting on the porch, enjoying the view. Then we headed up to the main lodge for breakfast, a short hike in itself, as our cabin was one of the farthest ones. I don’t remember what we had for breakfast but I do remember it was very good. (The next day we had individual souffles, which were light and delicious, and I DO remember those!)
The staff described the available hikes, one each at easy, medium, and more strenuous. We opted for the strenuous one, which climbed the ridge behind camp to the top, for great views, with birding and plant-naming on the way. There was a trail for the ascent, but once at the top we were advised to walk off-trail, on the spongey tundra, which was a treat, especially going downhill. Our guide said the tundra plants are fine as long as we spread out so no two people stepped on the same plants. The colors and variety were amazing—some deep reds in the low blueberry plants, many still with berries, plus white lichens and still some blooming flowers (including two different gentians and some heathers).
After hiking back to the lodge, my husband and I picked up a couple of the bikes (good mountain bikes) and rode to the “end of the road”, about 4 miles away. This is described as the farthest west one can drive (or bike) on the contiguous road/highway system in North America, but after checking the longitude against a certain road down on the Kenai peninsula, I’m not sure that is true—the it looks like the Kenai road wins by a half a degree. But it makes a great story. And it was nice to get out on a bike and see more of the scenery, including the other wilderness lodges out there: Kantishna Roadhouse, Denali Backcountry Lodge, and the Skyline Lodge (owned by Kantishna Air Taxi).
At dinner, one person from each group is asked to stand up and describe that day’s hike—where we went, what we saw, and anything else of note. At dinner this evening, the “moderate” group had a great story to tell. This goes back to our previous evening, when we did introductions. A family of four from the UK was there, and the teen age daughter introduced herself by saying she came to Denali to see a wolf. I thought, “yeah, right—doesn’t everyone?” But in all the time I spent in Denali in past years, neither I nor anyone I knew actually saw one, other than a faint speck disappearing in the distance. So I silently wished the young woman good luck, but hoped she would not be too disappointed when the wolf proved elusive as usual.
So guess what? The “moderate hike” group traveled by bus down the hill to North Face Lodge to pick up some more guests. (North Face Lodge, as an aside, is owned and run by the same family that runs Camp Denali. They share a common philosophy and some activities; the main difference is that the rooms at North Face Lodge are modern, with electricity and ensuite bathrooms. While I feel they lack the views and the charm of the Camp Denali cabins, they might be a better choice for many people.) So while the bus is waiting for the additional guests to appear, here come two wolves over the ridge, trotting right down the road, and across the parking lot!!! In full view of everyone on the bus, including a teen from the UK who had her wish granted.
Many people reported seeing a good aurora, full colors not just a green glow, around 3 am that night, but again we slept through it.
Day 10: At breakfast, a staff member announced that Kantishna Air had some spaces left in that day’s flightseeing trips. I don’t think there were any takers, but I have done this before, on a glorious clear day, and I’d advise that if you have the change to fly around Denali on a clear day like that, do it!!!
The usual three hikes options were announced, along with a new option: biking back from Eielson Visitor Center, about 22 miles. All hikes this day would be in the Sable Pass/Stony Overlook/Eielson area, so we would go there by bus. Those who chose to could put a bike in the bake and ride the road back to camp instead of joining any of the hikes. My sister and her husband chose this option and had a great time. We again went on the strenuous hike, which was an off-trail loop up one river, over a pass, across a scree slope on a sheep trail, and back down another riverbed. It was fun, but we saw no wildlife and no wildflowers either, just a lot of interesting geology.
We got back to camp in time to shower and relax a bit before dinner. Afterwards, we invited a couple we had befriended, he from Italy and she from the Netherlands, to join us at our cabin for a glass of wine. . . which turned into a bottle of wine, lots of laughs, and the sharing of contact information. Great fun----I hope we see them again, someday, somewhere. But then we had to pack up and be ready for an early breakfast (6 am) and departure the following day. : (
Day 11: Since the bus ride out starts in the early morning, there are more opportunities to see wildlife, including some that were much closer to the road than what we saw on the ride in. First a cow moose obliged us by going for a swim across a small pond, then there was a bear grazing on berries close to the road, a number of caribou trotting along, then a group of sheep, more bears here and there, and lastly, close to the park entrance, more caribou. These animals are beautiful in August, with healthy coats and large antlers (unlike in July, when they are shedding and their antlers are pitifully small).
The bus stopped quite a bit for wildlife but still got us to the park entrance by 11:30, in time for anyone who had to catch the train. Two of our group of 6 were leaving us here, but we decided to have lunch together before going our separate ways. We had a great lunch at the Salmon Bake in Glitter Gulch on the recommendation of our bus driver, said our good-byes, and the four of us jumped in the car for the drive to Fairbanks.
We arrived there about 4 pm, checked in to our hotel (Chena something Best Western near the airport), and then went to find the log house my ex and I built our near Farmer’s Loop Road, 40 years ago. We did find it, but I regretted going to look. The house is in good shape, but they have covered over the porch that I designed for sitting on summer evenings, parked a large flatbed trailer on what used to be my vegetable garden, and littered the wooded area between the garden and house with junk. Oh well. Apart from this, our visit to Fairbanks was fun and interesting, and the changes since I left in 1978 were pretty amazing—especially the bike paths everywhere. I did not expect that. My husband even said he “could live here”.
Day 12: After visiting the University and the Experimental Farm (where I used to work), we drove out to see the pipeline display (near Fox), then stopped for lunch at the cookie jar (yum) and pulled in to park at Creamer’s Field to see the sandhill cranes. This was right before the weekend Sandhill Crane Festival, and the field was covered with them. They are magnificent birds, and the noise was impressive!
We didn’t linger as we still had to drive to Talkeetna, and wanted time to look around there. It was around 4 pm when we pulled in to our lodging, the Susitna River Lodge. Nice place, right on the river. We had rooms in the lodge, but they have cabins as well. We were out on the porch gazing at the view with the owner, and I said I was sorry we only had one night there. He responded in a drawl, “Yuuuup, that’s what everyone says.” Then I said we had to fly home the next day, and he responded, “Yuuuup, that’s what everyone says.” So you’ve been warned—if you go to Talkeetna, you might want to book 2 nights!
We walked in to town and around a bit before settling on a place for dinner—Twister Creek, the brewpub. They have a large deck which is very pleasant, and a nice menu. The food was good. Afterwards we wandered around a bit more, and stopped in to the general store to see if the mayor (the cat Stubbs) was about, but he was not.
Day 13: Our last day. Our flight from Anchorage was not until 7:30 pm, but my husband had some work-related appointments in the afternoon. So we drove in, parked downtown, and had lunch at Snow City Café (yum) before dropping him off at the workplace. It was an absolutely gorgeous sunny day, and the three of us spent the rest of the afternoon walking various portions of the coastal path (including some moose-avoidance) before walking to the museum for our meet-up. After than it was back to reality, turn in the car, taxi to the airport, and finally an uneventful flight home.
We all agreed it was a wonderful trip. Now to organize my photos. . .
We lit the burner under the kettle (filled the night before) for face-washing and to make a cup of tea, which I enjoyed sitting on the porch, enjoying the view. Then we headed up to the main lodge for breakfast, a short hike in itself, as our cabin was one of the farthest ones. I don’t remember what we had for breakfast but I do remember it was very good. (The next day we had individual souffles, which were light and delicious, and I DO remember those!)
The staff described the available hikes, one each at easy, medium, and more strenuous. We opted for the strenuous one, which climbed the ridge behind camp to the top, for great views, with birding and plant-naming on the way. There was a trail for the ascent, but once at the top we were advised to walk off-trail, on the spongey tundra, which was a treat, especially going downhill. Our guide said the tundra plants are fine as long as we spread out so no two people stepped on the same plants. The colors and variety were amazing—some deep reds in the low blueberry plants, many still with berries, plus white lichens and still some blooming flowers (including two different gentians and some heathers).
After hiking back to the lodge, my husband and I picked up a couple of the bikes (good mountain bikes) and rode to the “end of the road”, about 4 miles away. This is described as the farthest west one can drive (or bike) on the contiguous road/highway system in North America, but after checking the longitude against a certain road down on the Kenai peninsula, I’m not sure that is true—the it looks like the Kenai road wins by a half a degree. But it makes a great story. And it was nice to get out on a bike and see more of the scenery, including the other wilderness lodges out there: Kantishna Roadhouse, Denali Backcountry Lodge, and the Skyline Lodge (owned by Kantishna Air Taxi).
At dinner, one person from each group is asked to stand up and describe that day’s hike—where we went, what we saw, and anything else of note. At dinner this evening, the “moderate” group had a great story to tell. This goes back to our previous evening, when we did introductions. A family of four from the UK was there, and the teen age daughter introduced herself by saying she came to Denali to see a wolf. I thought, “yeah, right—doesn’t everyone?” But in all the time I spent in Denali in past years, neither I nor anyone I knew actually saw one, other than a faint speck disappearing in the distance. So I silently wished the young woman good luck, but hoped she would not be too disappointed when the wolf proved elusive as usual.
So guess what? The “moderate hike” group traveled by bus down the hill to North Face Lodge to pick up some more guests. (North Face Lodge, as an aside, is owned and run by the same family that runs Camp Denali. They share a common philosophy and some activities; the main difference is that the rooms at North Face Lodge are modern, with electricity and ensuite bathrooms. While I feel they lack the views and the charm of the Camp Denali cabins, they might be a better choice for many people.) So while the bus is waiting for the additional guests to appear, here come two wolves over the ridge, trotting right down the road, and across the parking lot!!! In full view of everyone on the bus, including a teen from the UK who had her wish granted.
Many people reported seeing a good aurora, full colors not just a green glow, around 3 am that night, but again we slept through it.
Day 10: At breakfast, a staff member announced that Kantishna Air had some spaces left in that day’s flightseeing trips. I don’t think there were any takers, but I have done this before, on a glorious clear day, and I’d advise that if you have the change to fly around Denali on a clear day like that, do it!!!
The usual three hikes options were announced, along with a new option: biking back from Eielson Visitor Center, about 22 miles. All hikes this day would be in the Sable Pass/Stony Overlook/Eielson area, so we would go there by bus. Those who chose to could put a bike in the bake and ride the road back to camp instead of joining any of the hikes. My sister and her husband chose this option and had a great time. We again went on the strenuous hike, which was an off-trail loop up one river, over a pass, across a scree slope on a sheep trail, and back down another riverbed. It was fun, but we saw no wildlife and no wildflowers either, just a lot of interesting geology.
We got back to camp in time to shower and relax a bit before dinner. Afterwards, we invited a couple we had befriended, he from Italy and she from the Netherlands, to join us at our cabin for a glass of wine. . . which turned into a bottle of wine, lots of laughs, and the sharing of contact information. Great fun----I hope we see them again, someday, somewhere. But then we had to pack up and be ready for an early breakfast (6 am) and departure the following day. : (
Day 11: Since the bus ride out starts in the early morning, there are more opportunities to see wildlife, including some that were much closer to the road than what we saw on the ride in. First a cow moose obliged us by going for a swim across a small pond, then there was a bear grazing on berries close to the road, a number of caribou trotting along, then a group of sheep, more bears here and there, and lastly, close to the park entrance, more caribou. These animals are beautiful in August, with healthy coats and large antlers (unlike in July, when they are shedding and their antlers are pitifully small).
The bus stopped quite a bit for wildlife but still got us to the park entrance by 11:30, in time for anyone who had to catch the train. Two of our group of 6 were leaving us here, but we decided to have lunch together before going our separate ways. We had a great lunch at the Salmon Bake in Glitter Gulch on the recommendation of our bus driver, said our good-byes, and the four of us jumped in the car for the drive to Fairbanks.
We arrived there about 4 pm, checked in to our hotel (Chena something Best Western near the airport), and then went to find the log house my ex and I built our near Farmer’s Loop Road, 40 years ago. We did find it, but I regretted going to look. The house is in good shape, but they have covered over the porch that I designed for sitting on summer evenings, parked a large flatbed trailer on what used to be my vegetable garden, and littered the wooded area between the garden and house with junk. Oh well. Apart from this, our visit to Fairbanks was fun and interesting, and the changes since I left in 1978 were pretty amazing—especially the bike paths everywhere. I did not expect that. My husband even said he “could live here”.
Day 12: After visiting the University and the Experimental Farm (where I used to work), we drove out to see the pipeline display (near Fox), then stopped for lunch at the cookie jar (yum) and pulled in to park at Creamer’s Field to see the sandhill cranes. This was right before the weekend Sandhill Crane Festival, and the field was covered with them. They are magnificent birds, and the noise was impressive!
We didn’t linger as we still had to drive to Talkeetna, and wanted time to look around there. It was around 4 pm when we pulled in to our lodging, the Susitna River Lodge. Nice place, right on the river. We had rooms in the lodge, but they have cabins as well. We were out on the porch gazing at the view with the owner, and I said I was sorry we only had one night there. He responded in a drawl, “Yuuuup, that’s what everyone says.” Then I said we had to fly home the next day, and he responded, “Yuuuup, that’s what everyone says.” So you’ve been warned—if you go to Talkeetna, you might want to book 2 nights!
We walked in to town and around a bit before settling on a place for dinner—Twister Creek, the brewpub. They have a large deck which is very pleasant, and a nice menu. The food was good. Afterwards we wandered around a bit more, and stopped in to the general store to see if the mayor (the cat Stubbs) was about, but he was not.
Day 13: Our last day. Our flight from Anchorage was not until 7:30 pm, but my husband had some work-related appointments in the afternoon. So we drove in, parked downtown, and had lunch at Snow City Café (yum) before dropping him off at the workplace. It was an absolutely gorgeous sunny day, and the three of us spent the rest of the afternoon walking various portions of the coastal path (including some moose-avoidance) before walking to the museum for our meet-up. After than it was back to reality, turn in the car, taxi to the airport, and finally an uneventful flight home.
We all agreed it was a wonderful trip. Now to organize my photos. . .
Sep 14th, 2012, 04:20 PM
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"We all agreed it was a wonderful trip." Well, I think that's an understatement. This was one amazing trip. You were so lucky with the weather. Can't wait to see those photos.
Even though I don't think we would ever stay at Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge or Camp Denali,(I would love to, they are both on my dream list) if you had to choose to stay at only one of those lodges, which would you choose?
Even though I don't think we would ever stay at Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge or Camp Denali,(I would love to, they are both on my dream list) if you had to choose to stay at only one of those lodges, which would you choose?
Sep 15th, 2012, 05:32 AM
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Thanks for finishing Enzian, really enjoyed reading your report. I am struggling with 6 days in the middle of our trip, to Homer or not to Homer? Then you go and suggest 2 nights in Talkeetna - YIKES!
Sep 15th, 2012, 12:57 PM
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Maudie--- definitely Homer!!! Re-read the part about our friends' phone call---" Sorry we won't be meeting you in Girdwood; we've decided to stay in Homer the rest of our lives. . . ."
Talkeetna is perfect for an overnight to break up the trip between the Kenai Peninsula and Denali, but one night is enough, unless you want to go flight seeing. I was just kind of kidding with the guy. I don't know what we would have done, activity wise, with another day there. But it was a verynpleasant place to relax.
LindainOhio--- I could not choose between Camp Denali and Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge; that is why we did both! But I know the price is steep for most people, so I will try to name some differences.
Camp Denali is my sentimental favorite for personal reasons. But--- they have a minimum stay of three nights, so that might decide it for some people right there. There are other lodges nearby whichnare less expensive if you want to stay deep in the park. They do not offer the history, the charm, or the guided activities that Camp Denali does, but they cost a lot less.
Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge, on the other hand, seems to be one of a kind in that area. ( there is a lodge on Fox Island in Resurrection Bay, but it does not offer anywhere near the experience that we had at the Glacier Lodge). Considering that you get two 3 pr 4 hour glacier/ wildlife cruises, plus guided kayaking to the face of a glacier, and other activities, and considering the comfort of the cabins and quality of the meals, it is well worth it. And they do not have a minimum stay. One night would not be enough as you could not do the all day kayak trip. A two night stay was perfect. I do not know what we would have done with a third night.
Everything at both lodges is top quality and well thought out, down to the last detail. Both places have very loyal and very competent staff members and guides. The Glacier Lodge has their own boat to take you back and forth, and it is a nearly new, very safe and sold boat, made for the purpose ( it has to land on the beach at the lodge). The captain and crew are great, and it was nice to be on a boat with only 16 people instead of 100+ like some of the tour boats. The boat actual carries around 40 people but they rarely fill it up.
Talkeetna is perfect for an overnight to break up the trip between the Kenai Peninsula and Denali, but one night is enough, unless you want to go flight seeing. I was just kind of kidding with the guy. I don't know what we would have done, activity wise, with another day there. But it was a verynpleasant place to relax.
LindainOhio--- I could not choose between Camp Denali and Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge; that is why we did both! But I know the price is steep for most people, so I will try to name some differences.
Camp Denali is my sentimental favorite for personal reasons. But--- they have a minimum stay of three nights, so that might decide it for some people right there. There are other lodges nearby whichnare less expensive if you want to stay deep in the park. They do not offer the history, the charm, or the guided activities that Camp Denali does, but they cost a lot less.
Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge, on the other hand, seems to be one of a kind in that area. ( there is a lodge on Fox Island in Resurrection Bay, but it does not offer anywhere near the experience that we had at the Glacier Lodge). Considering that you get two 3 pr 4 hour glacier/ wildlife cruises, plus guided kayaking to the face of a glacier, and other activities, and considering the comfort of the cabins and quality of the meals, it is well worth it. And they do not have a minimum stay. One night would not be enough as you could not do the all day kayak trip. A two night stay was perfect. I do not know what we would have done with a third night.
Everything at both lodges is top quality and well thought out, down to the last detail. Both places have very loyal and very competent staff members and guides. The Glacier Lodge has their own boat to take you back and forth, and it is a nearly new, very safe and sold boat, made for the purpose ( it has to land on the beach at the lodge). The captain and crew are great, and it was nice to be on a boat with only 16 people instead of 100+ like some of the tour boats. The boat actual carries around 40 people but they rarely fill it up.
Sep 16th, 2012, 12:20 AM
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Hi Enzian, ok I get it about Talkeetna now. One night will do us just fine. Do you think 3 in Seward and 3 in Homer then? We will be coming off a northbound cruise, have these 6 nights to fill before heading to Talkeetna for one night, Denali for 3 and Hatcher Pass for 3 before we head down to the Rockies. There seems a lot to do around Girdwood as well but we just can't see everything.
What did your friends do in Homer apart from fishing?
What did your friends do in Homer apart from fishing?
Sep 16th, 2012, 09:46 AM
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Hi Maudie--- they rode a boat over to the wee little town of Halibut Cove to walk the boardwalks, see the art galeries, and have dinner at the Saltry restaurant. They said it was fun.
You can also go kayaking with several different outfitters. One is an educational institute and their trips are moderate in price. I can try to find the link if you like. We were thinking of doing that before I had to take Homer off our list.
You can also go kayaking with several different outfitters. One is an educational institute and their trips are moderate in price. I can try to find the link if you like. We were thinking of doing that before I had to take Homer off our list.
