Alaska - trip report
Jun 16th, 2008, 06:52 AM
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Alaska - trip report
Thanks to all here who provided advice for our 1 week land/1 week cruise to Alaska - DH, me plus 18 and 21 year old kids.
Flew USAir on FF tickets Boston-Las Vegas-Anchorage. Since air was free I should not complain, but only itinerary we could get gave us 30 minute connection in LV between 2 5-hour flights. First flight was 45 minutes late leaving Boston, made up 25 minutes, and then we ran thru LV airport, bearly making connection. Not the way to start a vacation, especially since of course there was no food on either flight. We brought snacks and sandwiches, but arrived in Anchorage 13 hours after leaving Boston very hungry.
Hertz mid-size SUV for a week at almost $800 was the best we could do for rental (did not try Priceline, though). Car pick-up easy.
Stayed one night Puffin Inn - closer to airport than downtown, based largely on price - we were leaving in AM. Staff somewhat confused at check-in. We had booked 2 rooms on hotels.com and they were prepaid. Staff alternately could find one, not the other, prepaid caused more confusion, but eventually resolved. We had all confirmation emails and even bank credit card statement that showed they were paid, don't know if that helped, but glad I had them.
Hotel room was great - very large double/double with refrig and m/w. Websites say hotel progressively remodeling and these rooms obviously had new BR, carpet. Basic average continental breakfast included.
Dinner at Glacier Brewhouse. Arrived at 6 PM and still a 45 minute wait. Salmon, halibut, ribs, chowder enjoyed by all. They brew beer and ale right there and it was also very good.
The daylight thing - very confusing. We were eating dinner at 7 PM local time, it felt like 11 PM EDT, and it looked like noon in the sunlight. Hotel had darkening curtains, but despite fatigue, did not sleep well. (continued)
Flew USAir on FF tickets Boston-Las Vegas-Anchorage. Since air was free I should not complain, but only itinerary we could get gave us 30 minute connection in LV between 2 5-hour flights. First flight was 45 minutes late leaving Boston, made up 25 minutes, and then we ran thru LV airport, bearly making connection. Not the way to start a vacation, especially since of course there was no food on either flight. We brought snacks and sandwiches, but arrived in Anchorage 13 hours after leaving Boston very hungry.
Hertz mid-size SUV for a week at almost $800 was the best we could do for rental (did not try Priceline, though). Car pick-up easy.
Stayed one night Puffin Inn - closer to airport than downtown, based largely on price - we were leaving in AM. Staff somewhat confused at check-in. We had booked 2 rooms on hotels.com and they were prepaid. Staff alternately could find one, not the other, prepaid caused more confusion, but eventually resolved. We had all confirmation emails and even bank credit card statement that showed they were paid, don't know if that helped, but glad I had them.
Hotel room was great - very large double/double with refrig and m/w. Websites say hotel progressively remodeling and these rooms obviously had new BR, carpet. Basic average continental breakfast included.
Dinner at Glacier Brewhouse. Arrived at 6 PM and still a 45 minute wait. Salmon, halibut, ribs, chowder enjoyed by all. They brew beer and ale right there and it was also very good.
The daylight thing - very confusing. We were eating dinner at 7 PM local time, it felt like 11 PM EDT, and it looked like noon in the sunlight. Hotel had darkening curtains, but despite fatigue, did not sleep well. (continued)
Jun 16th, 2008, 07:06 AM
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I enjoyed reading about your Alaska trip experience as spouse and I are heading that way during August from Philly. I am currently looking for a hotel for two nights near the airport that is "reasonable" in price (a joke in August), clean, quiet and comfortable. Since we arrive in the wee hours 1:00 am or so, we need to have some transportation to the hotel. We are not sure we want to rent a car for the day and a half we will be there. Is there public transportation from that area to downtown? We'll be cruising from Seward our second day on the Royal Caribbean Line for 7 days with family. Also, would you recommend the Puffin Hotel? It's not listed in my AAA travel guide book. I'm looking forward to reading more about your adventures.
Jun 16th, 2008, 07:33 AM
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Part 2. On to Denali, with stop in Wasilla for groceries - this really is last chance, so stop here if you need supplies. Again noted everyone in Alaska is incredibly nice. Ride from Anchorage to Talkeetna easy, but no great scenery.
Stopped in Talkeetna for a few hours. Lunch at West Rib Pub - named for side of mountain, not food item. Good lunch of pulled pork, more fish. No tour buses in town while we were there, but imagine place could be over-run if there were. Spent some time talking to year-round resident and it was interesting that the first thing she noted was that they were only an hour from a Walmart and Home Depot. Town in quirky, and both genuine and little touristy. Worth at least a few hours, might have a different feel if stayed longer.
Onward. And finally I feel like I am in Alaska. Incredible mountains, views and even got to see full north face of Mt. McKinley - wich is often fogged in.
Stayed 3 nights at Grizzly Bear Resort - and the last part of that name is funny. A collection of rustic elements - a main motel-like lodge, multiple cabins, some without facilities, and tent and RV sites. Staff was adequate at check-in but not particularly helpful otherwise. Cabin was basic, clean and rustic - we had Railroader cabin with 2 rooms, total 4 beds, BR, kitchen area and incredible deck overlooking Nenana River - not the Ritz, but this is rural Alaska and perfect for the setting. Dinner at 229 Park was enjoyable.
Next day 2-hour rafting trip thru Denali Outdoor Center. Professional, competent, safe. Early dinner at pizza place (name starts with a P - sorry, can't remember).
Stopped in Talkeetna for a few hours. Lunch at West Rib Pub - named for side of mountain, not food item. Good lunch of pulled pork, more fish. No tour buses in town while we were there, but imagine place could be over-run if there were. Spent some time talking to year-round resident and it was interesting that the first thing she noted was that they were only an hour from a Walmart and Home Depot. Town in quirky, and both genuine and little touristy. Worth at least a few hours, might have a different feel if stayed longer.
Onward. And finally I feel like I am in Alaska. Incredible mountains, views and even got to see full north face of Mt. McKinley - wich is often fogged in.
Stayed 3 nights at Grizzly Bear Resort - and the last part of that name is funny. A collection of rustic elements - a main motel-like lodge, multiple cabins, some without facilities, and tent and RV sites. Staff was adequate at check-in but not particularly helpful otherwise. Cabin was basic, clean and rustic - we had Railroader cabin with 2 rooms, total 4 beds, BR, kitchen area and incredible deck overlooking Nenana River - not the Ritz, but this is rural Alaska and perfect for the setting. Dinner at 229 Park was enjoyable.
Next day 2-hour rafting trip thru Denali Outdoor Center. Professional, competent, safe. Early dinner at pizza place (name starts with a P - sorry, can't remember).
Jun 16th, 2008, 07:43 AM
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Part 3. Next day our Denali Adventure. After much consideration booked thru Denali Backcountry Adventure - the 13 hour as far into the Park as you can go trip. We did not want uncertainty of shuttles and were not going off hiking, but should have done more research because you are essentially on a school bus for 11 hours with BR breaks. However, saw lots of wildlife - 13 grizzly bears, multiple moose, caribou, foxes, beavers, sheep plus baby horned owls in nest. Many of the mammals also had babies with them.
Now the Denali part no one mentioned. If you are afraid of heights, cliff roads, switchbacks, this is a TERRIFYING ride. Road is one-lane, dirt and for about 1/2 of the trip hangs precariously on the face of a mountain. And when one bus meets another they have to essentially touch each other to pass. Son and I have this fear and it was actually traumatic for both of us. Husband and dtr had a great time - but fear was evident on bus as whenever we were going thru difficult roadways, the bus became totally silent until we were on more level ground.
Lunch at end of Park road, with 2 hour stop for hiking, gold panning, just absorbing the wilderness was enjoyable.
Dinner at Salmon Bake Restaurant - not a traditional "salmon bake" but more seafood, grilled stuff. Denali, as one would expect, is not a gourmet destination. Next AM on to Kenai Peninsula.
Now the Denali part no one mentioned. If you are afraid of heights, cliff roads, switchbacks, this is a TERRIFYING ride. Road is one-lane, dirt and for about 1/2 of the trip hangs precariously on the face of a mountain. And when one bus meets another they have to essentially touch each other to pass. Son and I have this fear and it was actually traumatic for both of us. Husband and dtr had a great time - but fear was evident on bus as whenever we were going thru difficult roadways, the bus became totally silent until we were on more level ground.
Lunch at end of Park road, with 2 hour stop for hiking, gold panning, just absorbing the wilderness was enjoyable.
Dinner at Salmon Bake Restaurant - not a traditional "salmon bake" but more seafood, grilled stuff. Denali, as one would expect, is not a gourmet destination. Next AM on to Kenai Peninsula.
Jun 16th, 2008, 07:59 AM
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I'm looking forward to the rest of your trip report! We showed up in Talkeetna without reservations which I foolishly didn't think would be necessary on a Monday in late June. The visitors center sent us to some cabins way out of the way. All during our drive up and during the night, Denali was visible. My husband video-taped it around 1am in the morning. Kind of dusky but still very visible. I don't think anybody, including the locals gets much sleep during the summer.
Jun 16th, 2008, 08:01 AM
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Part 4. Next stop 2 nights in Seward. Upon advice here decided to concentrate on Seward rather than driving thru entire Kenai Peninsula. Long drive from Denali, but doable in a day. Once south of Anchorage, scenery is the most beautiful I have ever seen - mountains, glacier run-offs, water reflecting everything. Many opportunities for stopping for photos. Road is flat, level, well maintained, with no more nasty cliffs.
Stayed 2 nights at Harborview Inn. Nice rooms, clean, easy check-in, walking distance to downtown, but no real views. Room recently renovated, but NOISY - they have replaced all BR fixtures with over-fitted one-piece units and whenever anyone turns on water it sounds like a drum. Stay on the second floor and you should be OK. Holiday Inn Express seemed to have best harbor views. Dinner at Rays - table over-looking small boat harbor plus good food. Next day took 6-hour tour from Kenaifjords.com. Excellent. Well run, organized. Saw otter, 2 kinds of whales, one swam under boat, sea lions plus some mammals on shore. Comfortable, with outside viewing decks plus 2 inside heated levels with comfy seats, tables.
Dinner - tried Crab Pot (in older downtown area) since it had gotten some good (also some bad) reviews. Walked in and out - something was creepy about this place. While every other place in town was near full, this one had one table occupied, hostess asked if we had a reservation, pretended she was checking a list on an obviously blank piece of paper, and told us they would have to set a table for us. (This was 7 PM on a Saturday evening). We left and at at Chinooks, which was fine - again with great views, this time of day-boat fish cleaning operation on the water - got to see all the salmon people had hauled in.
Breakfast at a diner in a real railroad car (6 tables). Quirky, good food, slow but fine service.
Decided to head back to Anchorage and do some hiking and laundry befroe cruise. Stayed at Voyager Inn. This is a truly wonderful small hotel - beautiful room, increbidly clean, good location. Son and DH did a day hike, dtr and I walked around downtown. Dinner at Humpys (sports bar, local music) to watch Game 5 of NBA finals. Halibut and chips, salmon, salads, local beer.
Noted that there seem to be more places that sell caffeine and alcohol than any other place we have been - perhaps this is what one needs to survive in Alaska. Again, everyone is incredibly nice, but the daylight thing is still odd.
In AM on to Whittier for cruise.
Stayed 2 nights at Harborview Inn. Nice rooms, clean, easy check-in, walking distance to downtown, but no real views. Room recently renovated, but NOISY - they have replaced all BR fixtures with over-fitted one-piece units and whenever anyone turns on water it sounds like a drum. Stay on the second floor and you should be OK. Holiday Inn Express seemed to have best harbor views. Dinner at Rays - table over-looking small boat harbor plus good food. Next day took 6-hour tour from Kenaifjords.com. Excellent. Well run, organized. Saw otter, 2 kinds of whales, one swam under boat, sea lions plus some mammals on shore. Comfortable, with outside viewing decks plus 2 inside heated levels with comfy seats, tables.
Dinner - tried Crab Pot (in older downtown area) since it had gotten some good (also some bad) reviews. Walked in and out - something was creepy about this place. While every other place in town was near full, this one had one table occupied, hostess asked if we had a reservation, pretended she was checking a list on an obviously blank piece of paper, and told us they would have to set a table for us. (This was 7 PM on a Saturday evening). We left and at at Chinooks, which was fine - again with great views, this time of day-boat fish cleaning operation on the water - got to see all the salmon people had hauled in.
Breakfast at a diner in a real railroad car (6 tables). Quirky, good food, slow but fine service.
Decided to head back to Anchorage and do some hiking and laundry befroe cruise. Stayed at Voyager Inn. This is a truly wonderful small hotel - beautiful room, increbidly clean, good location. Son and DH did a day hike, dtr and I walked around downtown. Dinner at Humpys (sports bar, local music) to watch Game 5 of NBA finals. Halibut and chips, salmon, salads, local beer.
Noted that there seem to be more places that sell caffeine and alcohol than any other place we have been - perhaps this is what one needs to survive in Alaska. Again, everyone is incredibly nice, but the daylight thing is still odd.
In AM on to Whittier for cruise.
