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A Napa Valley Reprise: Mom turns the big 5-0!

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A Napa Valley Reprise: Mom turns the big 5-0!

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Old Jan 27th, 2015, 01:03 PM
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A Napa Valley Reprise: Mom turns the big 5-0!

I can’t believe it has already been more than three months since I went to SF and Napa Valley with my younger twin sisters, Ainsley and Bailey, to celebrate our Mom’s 50th Birthday! But if there’s one benefit to the blizzard raging outside, it’s that I can finally get some time to sit down and write this trip report!

Before I get started, I just want to say thanks to everyone who helped us plan this itinerary on the Fodors' boards over the last year. We had a great time and your suggestions helped a lot! Since my reports double as my travel journal (lazy, I know), and this one may end up being a tad long, here’s a recap so you can jump around and read whichever portions interest you, if any. Enjoy!

Friday – Flew out to SF. Flight was a few hours delayed, so not much to tell about on Friday Evening.

Saturday – A morning run in SF, great pastries at Tartine Bakery, quick visits to Point Reyes National Seashore and Cowgirl Creamery. Great oyster lunch at Tomales Bay. A lovely drive to Solage in Calistoga. Starting the weekend off right with a massage. Dinner at Mustards Grill.

Sunday – A white collar sparkling wine tour for Mom’s 50th. Great breakfast at Solbar, cave tour at Schramsberg, patio tasting at Mumm’s, lunch at Oxbow Market, shopping at Napa Outlets, terrace tasting at Domaine Carneros, a failed attempt at Bocce and room service for dinner back at Solage. A bubbly, tipsy, laughter filled and altogether delicious way to close out a half century!

Monday – A morning bike ride to Chateau Montelena and Clos Pegase, with a stop in Calistoga. A lunchtime stroll in St. Helena, followed by stops at Robert Sinskey and Artessa. Late return to SF in time for red-eye flight home, thus undoing a whole weekend of relaxation by the start of the work week!

FRIDAY NIGHT – ARRIVAL IN SAN FRANCISCO

We arrived in SF late on Friday, after a two hour delay on our flight. Several years younger than me and far more energetic, the twins didn’t seem to mind the delay as much as I did and I think left to their own devices would have gone out on the town. But yours truly was completely beat and delighted to see the Birthday Girl waiting to pick us up at the airport. (There’s really nothing quite like an airport pickup, is there?). It had been a really long week of work leading up to this break and all I wanted to do was crash. So I did just that!

SATURDAY – SAN FRANCISCO TO SOLAGE

Crashing early was the right move, as the next morning I woke up bright and early and ready for a great weekend. We four ladies are all fitness junkies, so we had a blast heading out for a morning run with the Birthday Girl. In case she reads this, I have to concede that she fared much better than any of her daughters on the jog from her house in Pacific Heights, through the Presidio, to Crissy Field. People in SF are not kidding when they say they’ve got hills! But they also have gorgeous views!

After our jog, we cleaned up quickly. As some of you know, the Birthday Girl is quite possibly the most prim and proper person on the planet. If she were mayor of a city, I have no doubt that leaving the house under-dressed, which to her means not wearing a shirt or dress with some kind of collar and a pearl necklace, would be punishable by stiff fine or community service. In any event, her daughters have learned this lesson the hard way and I was pleased when she simply smiled out our cute and preppy outfits and declared herself ready to depart. Yes, she’s crazy, but show me one Mom worth having that isn’t!

We hopped in Mom’s Jetta and plugged directions to the Tomales Bay Oyster Company into our phones. I volunteered to be our driver for the day – I love driving and can’t say how much I miss that back in Boston where I am sadly car-less. I will admit, after not driving with regularity, those hills in SF are a challenge.

The Birthday Girl is an Oyster lover and I had heard wonderful things about Tomales Bay Oyster Company and the stretch of coastal road that leads there from San Francisco from countless friends who had preceded me in that direction. We would in no way be disappointed! But before I get to that, I have to mention the amazing bakery we stopped at on the way out of SF. It is called Tartine, is located at Guerrero & 18th and is wunderbar! It isn’t cheap and I definitely rolled my eyes at the price tag for a croissant, but the crunch was completely magical. We loaded up on morning buns, gougeres, great coffee and Cappucino and were on our way.

The drive to Tomales Bay was lovely. After crossing the iconic Golden Gate Bridge, you turn off the highway and get on to Route 1, which dazzles with its graceful turns and coastal views. The drive in the northern direction is also generally not cliff-side, so my non-love (read: outright fear) of heights did not prove an issue!

It was the late morning when we arrived at the Point Reyes National Seashore. We were there for about an hour and I have to admit that I think we short-changed it. There is apparently a lovely lighthouse and lots of trails to see, but we wanted to beat the weekend crowds to the oysters for lunch and limited ourselves to the “Earthquake Trail” which takes you over the San Andreas Fault Zone. It was a disappointingly easy walk with not a ton to see, but I guess it is neat to say we have walked over one of the world’s great fault lines. If the walk wasn’t too exotic, we did at least see a snake on the path - wildlife that is not as accessible to us back east.

After our stop off, we continued north a few miles to the Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station. We had heard that this was the place to load up on supplies to eat with the oysters and we did just that, buying delicious cold cuts, flavored iced-teas and several kinds of cheeses, including my new favorite: Red Hawk! Yum!!!! Point Reyes isn’t much of a town, but Cowgirl (rightfully!) is enough to put it on my map. We hopped back in the car and were soon at Tomales Bay Oyster Company.

If you’re an oyster lover, you must not miss this experience, which was unquestionably one of the highlights of the weekend. You buy a bag of oysters picked fresh out of their traps, a shucking knife, some gloves (essential!!!!), a bag or two or three of ice, some lemon and some Tabasco sauce (if you are so inclined), sit at a wooden picnic table and shuck to your heart’s content. Hint: To cut down on messiness and frustration, ask one of the gentlemen or ladies working there to teach you to shuck – it’s a time saver and will allow you to savour the salty, wonderful oysters (rather than just being frustrated by their difficult to penetrate shells)! We had a dozen or so oysters each, and were all fairly proficient shuckers, especially Bailey, by the time we left. ☺

We hopped back in the car and embarked on a leisurely drive to the resort we would be staying at for the weekend - Solage in Calistoga at the end of the Napa Valley, arriving around 5 PM.

Solage! Wow! Just Wow! What a beautiful place! Think modern, well-appointed bungalow colony on a wonderfully relaxing campus on the outskirts of a very cute, small town. No, it wasn’t cheap, but for Mom’s 50th birthday bash, it was worth every penny! The heated pools, the spa, the SolBar restaurant! I wish I were there right now!!

Mom and I shared a bungalow and the twins shared another one. While it is very hard to find any faults with Solage, my only criticism would be that this city girl doesn’t love insects and there were a few large ones in the room. To be clear, this had nothing to do with cleanliness – I just think it is par for the course when you’re staying in a bungalow in wine country. Part of the atmosphere, I suppose. But the best part of Solage was definitely the free bikes at your disposal for each room occupant! A really wonderful, country touch!

After checking in and getting the lay of the land, we made our way over to the spa where we had booked some treatments to kick off the weekend. I had the signature massage, which lasted for 50 minutes and was pure bliss. Can’t recommend it highly enough.

A short while later, after the sun had set, relaxed and settled, we hit the road and backtracked south to Mustards Grill, a restaurant we’d heard much about in nearby St. Helena. Mustards is a really neat place - think gourmet truck stop! If I had one grievance to point out, it would be that the establishment tends to wind down fairly early, but again, I think that’s just Napa. And actually, being tucked away in bed at a reasonable hour was part of the charm of our trip.

Anyway, back to Mustards. We were seated at 9:30 and were among the last to leave the restaurant. But the food was fantastic! I will not be quick to forget my Mongolian Pork Chop (very, very generously sized!) and the Birthday Girl was delighted by her duck. Ainsley ordered a rabbit dish, which I was a little wary about (I can’t bring myself to eat bugs bunny!), but she too left full and happy. And Bailey will eat anything, but was thrilled with her hangar steak, so it was smiles all around. By the time we arrived back at Solage, I was zonked after our very full day and ready for sleep. But it was a great day and I wouldn’t have changed a thing or eaten anything differently.

To be continued soon . . .
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Old Jan 27th, 2015, 01:11 PM
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Old Jan 27th, 2015, 01:48 PM
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So far, so good. Happy 50th to your Mom!!
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Old Jan 27th, 2015, 02:15 PM
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Sounds like a great trip! I love buying Cowgirl Creamery cheese at the Ferry Building but haven't been to Point Reyes Station. Thanks for the tip
https://www.cowgirlcreamery.com/pt-reyes-shop-creamery
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Old Jan 27th, 2015, 02:54 PM
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I just read the summary, and it already sounds like a wonderful trip. Happy birthday (belated) to your mom and kudos to you for planning such a wonderful celebration.
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Old Jan 27th, 2015, 03:23 PM
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>>the blizzard raging outside,
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Old Jan 27th, 2015, 03:23 PM
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If I had one grievance to point out, it would be that the establishment tends to wind down fairly early, but again, I think that’s just Napa.
Yep.

We did a day trip to NV this past "no football Sunday" to pick up some olive oil at the Napa Valley Olive Oil Manuf Co in St. Helena.
Drove by Mustard's and wondered if it was still a good place to stop. Sounds like the "gourmet truck stop" still is.

We did lunch on the patio of R+D Kitchen (Ex-Napa Valley Grill) then coffee and cookies at Bottega. Enjoyable.

Waiting for your next installment!
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Old Jan 28th, 2015, 08:32 AM
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Hi Blondie . . . Happy 50th to your Mom! So glad you decided to do a birthday trip report . . . Hubbie and I were beginning to wonder if you were going to do one . . . you are one of our favorite authors on this forum . . .

What a well planned out weekend . . .! I am also an oyster lover . . . Tomales Bay is hard to beat! And share your views about the Earthquake Trail . . . overrated!

Can't wait to read more . . .

Hubbie says hi too and to watch out for those wine collars . . . Hope you aren't too snowbound in Boston!

Kendra
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Old Jan 28th, 2015, 02:08 PM
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Hi again Blondie!!

What a great start to the trip! Pretty roads, shucking oysters and a massage to top it off sounds perf!! Mama Blondie is so lucky to have such doting and fun daughters!

I'm still in the planning stages of a Napa bachelorette weekend in April and look forward to your valuable suggestions!! Duly noted re bugs... I will be sure to check all reviews before finalizing my booking, but I agree with you its probably just a part of Napa. Still, yuck!

Excited to hear about the rest of your trip. Bring on the Bubbly!!!
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Old Jan 28th, 2015, 07:54 PM
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First, a correction. After I posted the first installment of this trip report and e-mailed it to Ainsley, she had nothing but nice words to say about my writing . . . until she added that I had the days off by one. D’oh!!! She's completely right that we flew out on Thursday night and flew back on Sunday night. A nice cautionary tale about the perils of waiting three months to write your trip reports . . .

@Kal – Thanks for the thumbs up. I’ve always been amused by Siskel & Ebert, so I’ll shoot for Two Thumbs Up on the next installment! And, yes, Mustard’s is still a fantastic place to stop! Go there!

@JanetKMR – Hello again! I hope all is well with you and that your 2015 is off to a great start!!

@Starrs – Thanks for the nice feedback. Have you tried the Red Hawk from Cowgirl? Addictive! Do you have any favorites I should try next time I am out west? And, yes, I love the Ferry Building location too! Yum.

@SF7307 – We had a great trip. It was really a team effort with my sisters to plan. And of course the Fodors folks were a great help too!!

@ Stu – Grrrrr.

@Kendra – Well hello again! Thanks for your compliment – writing trip reports is one of my favorite mental breaks from work and snow, both of which have been insane lately! Sorry we didn’t bump into you and Hubbie again this year! Have you been back to Napa at all? As for whether the wine collars made another appearance, guess you'll just have to read on and find out

@CCC – That’s great that you are planning a bachelorette weekend in April. I hope this report is helpful. Since we like to party a little bit ourselves, I'm happy to be a free consultant!

Next installment coming soon!
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Old Jan 29th, 2015, 01:14 PM
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Let that be a lesson to you Blondie . . . keeping your audience waiting for a sequel! . . . CCC . . . you should definitely consult with Blondie . . . we ran into her during bday weekend last year at Castello di Amorosa . . . those blondes know how to have a good time in wine country . . .

Blondie . . . Hubbie says happy birthday to Mom too . . . he still refuses to believe she's 50!!!!
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Old Jan 30th, 2015, 02:38 PM
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Hi Bostonblondie
We have some big 50 b-days coming up soon too and are travelling to wine country. Is Solage as skewed towards the younger crowd as I hear it is? What was your take on it? Lots of man buns (and I am talking hair-dos - not Speedo suits?
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Old Feb 5th, 2015, 11:01 AM
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Mmmm Mustards Grill, everytime we head out to Napa (California born and raised, just living in WA now) you have to hit this place up. Their grilled Ahi... mmm mm. We went in the winter time and had their kettle chip with AmAzinG Blue Cheese Dip! Oh my gooodness!
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Old Mar 16th, 2015, 07:56 AM
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Thanks for this - will be traveling to LA & Napa this summer and this info will be very helpful.
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Old Apr 1st, 2015, 09:55 AM
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DAY 2 – THE BIG DAY!

Hi again from thawing Boston!

First, a correction. When I sent the first installment of this trip report to Ainsley, she had nothing but nice words to say about my writing . . . until she added that I had the days wrong. D’oh! We flew out on Thursday night and flew home on Sunday night. A nice cautionary tale it makes about the perils of waiting so long to write your trip reports . . .

One of my favorite things about Napa is the air. That clean, fresh, wonderful air. I hadn’t been awake for ten minutes before I stepped outside of our bungalow and hopped on the complimentary bicycle parked outside for a spin on the lovely country road right across from the entrance to the resort. What a treat! While I was out, Mom and the twins went to a Pilates class, which it sounds like they enjoyed, although I have to say, Pilates isn’t really my thing!

A short while later we rendezvoused outside of our bungalows to make our way over to Solbar for breakfast. Apart from her daughters and the city of Paris, if I had to name two things Mom loves, they would be fashion and champagne. Since time and economic constraints ruled out a trip to the Champagne region of France, we had decided to fete the Birthday Girl with a sparkling wine tour of Napa Valley for her 50th.

For as long as I can remember, the Birthday Girl has always imparted to us the importance of dressing well. If most kids grew up in a house where they were told to eat their broccoli, we grew up in one where we were taught the importance of wardrobe staples, like well-hemmed black slacks and crisp white shirts. So as we were planning the birthday weekend, Bailey, genius that she is, had the idea of ordering made to measure versions of Mom’s go-to, white button-up dress shirt for each of us with darts, a crisp collar, and our initials in pink stitching on the cuff as an added flourish. The shirts were pricey, but I have to admit that when I tried mine on, I was very pleased at how crisp and chic I looked! Kudos to Bailey for coordinating our orders! In any event, I don’t think I’ve ever seen the Birthday Girl so happy, except for maybe a minute later when we gave her our real birthday present – a pearl necklace with a silver heart charm and matching bracelet, the bracelet engraved with her birthday and the necklace with the date of her 50th. And yes, we were grinning ear-to-ear, as our prim and proper role model nearly welled up with tears!

With everyone looking stylishly collared, cuffed, tucked in and buttoned-up, we made our way over to Solbar for breakfast. I could eat there every day for the rest of my life. I had Lemon Ricotta pancakes -- absolutely to die for! Carbs galore, but, hey, I was in vacation mode! I have to admit, though, that Bailey’s omelet looked awfully tempting. After breakfast, we made our way to the parking lot where our limo was waiting.

I interrupt this trip report with an important announcement: If you are going to drink in Napa, PLEASE do not drive. Get a designated driver, spit or just stay home. And since we like a good party and our day did involve a good amount of drinking, if that's not your thing you may want to skip ahead to the next installment.

CHAPTER 1 – A CAVE TOUR AT SCHRAMSBERG

We piled into the limo and hit the road to Schramsberg, where I had booked us a cave tour beginning at 10:00 a.m. As we rolled along on our way to our first destination, we again surprised the Birthday Girl with a birthday scavenger hunt we had dreamt up for her birthday weekend, which included the following items:

- Group picture with the famous “Napa Valley” sign
- Visit to Oxbow Market
- Visit to a wine cave
- Play Bocce at Solage
- Eat at Gott’s
- Go for a Bike Ride
- Find a shopping Bargain
- Get a Spa Treatment (a box we had checked the prior evening!)
- Unlimited Pictures with new friends

Fun!

The only thing I don’t love about Napa Valley is the traffic! The valley is very quaint, but to a certain extent, so are its roads. But we made the most of the situation as the conversation somehow steered itself to Ainsley’s (then) new boyfriend, Brooks, whom none of us had ever met before, and whom we eventually convinced her to call using the app on her tablet.

Poor guy, he was so nervous! Meeting your new girlfriend’s family is nerve wracking enough, but doing it over a screen! I can only imagine what he must have thought as the four of us appeared on the screen, looking prim and proper in our matching white shirts!

But our Ainsley had prepped Brooks well, warning him about the Birthday Girl’s fairly reserved and proper nature, and made him dress the part. So when he appeared on the screen wearing a white shirt, a perfectly knotted navy bowtie with red stripes, suspenders, and with his hair parted and shiny from today's equivalent to Brylcreem, I caught Ainsley’s smirk as the Birthday Girl immediately swooned, “Ainsley! Your gent knows how to dress!” To her credit, Ainsley scored a winner. Brooks was super polite and cute and after a ten minute call that felt like one minute to me, but probably felt like four days to Ainsley, we appointed him our mascot for the day and promised to call back later as we had finally arrived at Schramsberg.

Schramsberg was fantastic. At $60 each, the cave tour was not cheap, but it was worth every penny. They take you down into caves dug deep below the earth during the 19th century to keep the wines cool while they age. I am by nature a tad claustrophobic, and the caves were somewhat dark, but none of this posed a problem for me. Down in the caves, you have no choice but to imagine what a task it must have been to create these spaces back then! The tour was very entertaining and educational, with lots of good information about the making of sparkling wines and some of the historic visitors to Schramsberg – including Robert Louis Stevenson who wrote about the place extensively. I bet Napa Valley in general was less crowded back when he visited! But in any event, we snapped a smiley group picture in the caves at Schramsburg and the ever-competitive Birthday Girl enthusiastically checked off another box on our Scavenger Hunt.

As part of the tour, we got to try four generous tastes of their sparkling wine varietals. In case you are curious, I’ve added my tasting notes on each here:

• Blanc Des Blancs: Super refreshing, crisp, fruity and celebratory. Perhaps unsurprisingly given our white shirt themed day, this was the Birthday Girl’s favorite of the varietals. And anticipating a continuation of the Napa weekend traffic, Ainsley bought two bottles to keep the party going during the long limo drives.

• Blanc de Noirs: Not my favorite, but I could see how some people might like it. I detected a lot of cinnamon when I tasted it. But interesting process to make it.

• Brut Rose: My personal fave! Summer in a bottle! I can’t wait to sip this when spring eventually returns to New England.

• Mirabelle: Tasty, bubbly and dry. I liked it!

CHAPTER 2 – LIMOSINE SHENANIGANS

After a short but pleasant visit to Schramsberg, we piled back into the limo. No sooner had we hit the road when . . . traffic! So we popped a bottle of the Blanc des Blancs, filled up our cute plastic champagne flutes and showed off our dance moves as our driver, Clem, kept us entertained with a steady stream of Tom Petty, Shania Twain, Britney Spears and the Dixie Chicks.

Despite what you may think based on our birthday visits to Napa Valley, Mom and I really aren’t big drinkers. Ainsley and Bailey, just two years out of college, definitely have more exposure to that lifestyle at this point in their lives, along with the enhanced alcohol tolerance that goes with it. Which probably explains why, by this point in the morning, already deliciously giggly, the Birthday Girl and I convinced Ainsley to call Brooks back as the traffic receded and we crooned along with a unmemorable version of “Wide Open Spaces”. Brooks picked up as we were winding down our song and, after polite applause, quipped that he always thought that song was by the Dixie Chicks, not the tipsy chicks.

CHAPTER 3 – IN THE GARDEN AT MUMM

Thank goodness for designated drivers!

As we stepped out of the limo at Mumm a short while later . . . Head rush! Gotta love those bubbles. I turned to confide this to the Birthday Girl and busted her struggling to excavate her blonde hair from the collar of her blouse. Recognizing she'd been busted, she looked at me sheepishly and then burst into a fit of playful giggles before mouthing the words (you guessed it, Kendra!) “Wine Collar!” and covering her lips with an emphatic shhhhh sign.

Mumm is really a beautiful setting. We did the Patio Tasting which, looking at out the lovely vineyards and rolling hills, was positively fabulous. Mercifully each table had an umbrella for shade, since, even though it was October, it had turned into a very hot day! But under the umbrella, with a refreshing breeze blowing, I could have sat there for hours sipping bubbly. The wines we sampled at Mumm were:

• Blanc Des Blancs –Tasted very Chardonnay-ey and would be good with a light meal in the summer. I may have narrowly preferred Schramsberg’s version though.

• Brut Reserve – A lot of acidity, but a bit of honey too if you look for it. I liked it.

• Brut Rose – Pretty and pink. Very tasty and dangerously drinkable. Great for a bubbly summer afternoon on a boat!

After our bubbly morning, the rosy-cheeked Birthday Girl was adorably less inhibited and undergoing her typical alcohol alchemy, which generally results in trading her in her reserved and proper nature for liberal laughter and hoards of hugs. In fairness, my own bubbly tickle was also more pronounced as we giggled our way arm-in-arm back to the limo. Suddenly, something caught the Birthday Girl’s eye and she wrenched her arm free. Before I could keep up, she was enthusiastically making her way forward to check out a great photo exhibit by Graham Nash, one of her favorite musicians.

I didn’t realize this about Mumm, but in addition to great bubbly, they have a spectacular photography collection, as well as rotating exhibits. A show by Graham Nash, of Crosby Stills Nash & Young (who knew, right?!), was on display during our visit and Mom was delighted. After a few minutes of listening to the Birthday Girl’s tipsy praise for a bygone musical era, I stepped outside to take a phone call, while Ainsley and Bailey sunned themselves and sent instagram pictures.

When I went back in to retrieve her a few minutes later, our tipsy matriarch was in the thick of the exhibit, arm in arm, with a handsome gentleman who appeared to be in his mid-50s. I sidled up to her and eavesdropped as she flirted mischievously with her new friend. At some point she noticed me standing next to her and wasted no time pointing to her friend’s shirt cuff which, sure enough, revealed initials identical to hers (albeit stitched in blue). A match made in Napa! In any event, after a quick photo and a hug goodbye, we were on our way out the door. (But not before snapping an “all hands-in” picture of our initialed shirt-cuffs which proudly made the cover of Mom’s 50th Birthday Photo Album!).

CHAPTER 4 – LUNCH AT OXBOW

Kudos to Clem! We were a festive crowd by the time we left Mumm and we cheered enthusiastically when Clem announced that it was time for lunch at the well-known Oxbow Market. Traffic once again reared its ugly head, so back in the limo we resumed our dance party and crooned out a version of Sweet Caroline that I don’t think poor Clem will forget anytime soon.

If you are visiting Napa, make sure to put the Oxbow Market on your itinerary! It is an adorable and upscale little market tucked away in a corner of the downtown. It sort of reminded me of Quincy Market back home in Boston, but the quality of the food seemed much more local, fresh and fantastic. Also, unlike Quincy Market, Oxbow does not seem to be a tourist trap. We were in need of a hearty lunch after the morning’s antics, so I locked arms with the Birthday Girl and we made a circuit and surveyed the market’s offerings.

After thoroughly studying our options, we finally decided on a perfect set of choices - sharing delicious tacos from C Casa and three pizzas from Ca’ Momi. Yum!! I especially recommend the guacamole from C Casa – really big and perfectly fresh pieces of avocado! Although Ca’ Momi had a nice wine selection, we decided to opt for large bottles of water instead and to pass on wine at lunch in order to avoid an early bedtime like last year! And, of course, we made certain to snap a picture at the market and to tick the box off of the scavenger hunt list!

CHAPTER 5 – WE BREAK FOR SHOPPING!

A sober lunch hour at Oxbow Market was a great idea and I would strongly recommend it to any one going the party limo route. Wine during the day tends to give me a headache, but I think that lots of water at lunch was key to keeping it at bay. Plus, although the bubbly imparts a quick buzz, I, for one, felt much more sober after an hour of abstention and a nice, filling lunch.

We had told Clem in advance that the Birthday Girl is a fashionista, so for our next stop, she drove us the short distance to the nearby outlet center. The outlets were nice enough, with not an overwhelming number of shops, but buzzed shopping was a very fun pursuit! The Birthday Girl was quite happy with the selection of retailers – and we made our way through, amassing shopping bags all the way. Worth a stop if you like to shop!

CHAPTER 6 – FUN AT DOMAINE CARNEROS

After posing for some pictures with our hands full of shopping bags, we piled back into the limo. I have to hand it to Clem – her Oxbow Market and Outlet excursions were fantastic additions to the day!

Soon we arrived at Domaine Carneros, our last stop of the day. Domaine Carneros is perched on top of a hill with beautifully planted terraces overlooking, among other landmarks, the nearby Di Rosa Art Center (which we regrettably did not have time to visit). The winery is located in a majestic building that looks as if it could just as easily be in Switzerland. Magnificent! And with the vines below shining and green, and the day ever so slightly cooler, we were happy as clams to sit down on their outside patio where we had a reservation. I think many other people must have had the same idea as us as the place was really hopping!

None of us were up for the whole tasting process, so we explored the menu and ordered a bottle of the Brut Rose, which was delicious and refreshing – I tasted a lot of tangerine in it and I love tangerines. Ainsley, who also adores them, declared it her favorite bubbles of the day. We were also feeling a bit peckish, so we ordered the Mount Tam Cheese plate to go with it, which featured a selection from Cowgirl Creamery. Yum, although in fairness, this particular cheese was a little too fragrant for my taste, so I amused myself with the bubbly and people watching.

Some places are simply too nice to rush out of and Domaine Carneros is most certainly one of them. As the afternoon marched on, the sun had descended a bit from its peak and a cool and refreshing breeze had started up. All around us, people were sitting at tables, sipping great sparkling wine and chatting with friends. We could have lingered forever as we ordered another bottle of Brut Rose and soaked up the sun.

I am a devoted people watcher and I really think Napa is one of the best places in the world for this sport. After a few more glasses of Brut Rose the tickle under my shirt collar had returned and the Birthday Girl’s newly-minted case of birthday hiccups confirmed that her progress towards sobering up from the morning’s antics had by this time been reversed. We had indeed reached that point in the afternoon where everything was funny, so we made a giggly decision to play one of our favorite people watching games - pick someone out of a crowd and say an animal that they remind you of. It's silly, but try it first before you judge and see what you think! (If it doesn’t come in handy next time you are stranded waiting for a flight, be sure to let me know!).

In any event, when it was the Birthday Girl's turn she identified a handsome, tall, brown-haired guy in a yellow shirt seated at the next table over and declared him to be a giraffe. By this point in the afternoon, subtlety was not the Birthday Girl's strong suit and she kept her eyes locked on him as she shook with laughter and hiccups. This less than subtle display was noticed by the neighboring giraffe, and the next thing we knew, he had made his way over to our table, pulled up a chair, and begun chatting with the Birthday Girl, dying to know how he'd caught her attention. My favorite moment of the day came as the adorably tipsy Birthday Girl fought her hardest to stifle her laughter while proclaiming with a straight face, "we - Hic! - we think you – Hic! – you look like a giraffe!"

Remarkably, without missing a beat, the gentleman replied, "I've gotten that before. In fact, my name is actually Geoffrey, like the guy from Toys R Us". Even though his name turned out to be James, with a comeback like that, we couldn't really object when “Geoffrey” asked if his two friends Mark and Tate could join us as well. They pulled up chairs and joined us, along with another unnecessary bottle of Brut Rose. They were quite entertaining and when we continued the game, Bailey concluded that Mark, in his black and white shirt, looked like a Zebra and Ainsley decided that Tate, with his chest hair poking out the top of his polo, looked like a grizzly bear. Poor Tate! Eventually a waiter came around and announced to our supremely cheerful table that Domaine Carneros would soon be closing for the day.

CHAPTER 7 – A TIPSY RIDE HOME

We said our goodbyes and piled back into the limo. The traffic to leave the parking lot was taking forever and in our very tipsy state opening the remaining bottle of Blanc des Blancs we had bought earlier seemed like a good idea. We cheersed . . . and sipped . . . and sat in traffic. And when Tina Turner’s rendition of Rolling on the River came on the speakers, we danced! Or at least tried to, as every time the limo moved forward in the start and stop traffic, the Birthday Girl, who was really beginning to feel the alcohol, would tumble from her platform heels harmlessly backwards on to the seat cushion, shaking with laughter.

As the traffic began to dissipate, we decided to err on the side of safety and seat-belted ourselves in. At some point, we decided to give Brooks a call back. I said it before and I'll say again, what a good sport you have landed, Ainsley! The Birthday Girl was very much under the spell of the bubbly by this point and insisted in speaking to Brooks in private, which in a limo was completely impossible and audible to all. I don’t think there was a dry eye among us as she doted on Brooks, “You’rrre . . . you’rrre sussh – Hic! – susssh a gennnellman”, as he promised not judge her when she confessed to him in her best slurred speech, "I'm – hic! – I’m a lillll intosssi - hic! - tosssicated cuzz isss - hic! - issssmy birsday - hic! - and ivvve bennn drinnnking."

CHAPTER 8 – Safe and Sound at Solage

Finally, after an hour plus drive through terrible traffic, we made it back to Solage. We tottered out of the limo and parted ways with Clem after an abundance of bubbly scented hugs. Dusk was falling and we had decided in the limo to head to our rooms for a nap and to freshen up before going for our dinner reservation at Solbar. (Ordinarily I would never eat breakfast and dinner at the same place on vacation, but for Solbar, I was happily willing to make an exception!).

By this point in the afternoon, balance was a challenge, so I locked arms with the Birthday Girl and we made our way off in the direction of our bungalows, following behind Ainsley and Bailey. On the way, we passed by the Bocce courts. This did not escape the Birthday Girl’s notice, who, I guess thinking about the scavenger hunt, pulled her arm free of mine and, with an enthusiastic “Lessss play some Bosssshe”, headed off in the direction of the Bocce Court walking about as steadily as if she’d gotten off an amusement park ride.

The game, however, was not meant to be, as when the Birthday Girl leaned down to pick up a ball, she toppled over on to the brownish/grey silt court. She sat there laughing for a good minute and then attempted to stand up, only to topple over once again. I guess the day’s mischief really had caught up with her by that point! Eventually we helped her to her feet, locked arms and made it back to the room without further incident. I have to admit, I don’t know how she does it, but even in her intoxicated state, and tumbles on a bocce court, the Birthday Girl found a way to return home from the days' adventures perfectly collared, cuffed and crisp, even if her tan slacks were a bit dusty!

Despite a few stumbles and a little dust, the only casualty of our Birthday shenanigans was our dinner at Solbar. By the anointed hour my hangover had begun to set in and the Birthday Girl was resting on the bed, giggling as she begged the room to stop spinning. Ever accommodating, Solbar was only too happy to deliver four hamburgers and coca-colas to us, which helped greatly in undoing the day's sins.

It was a great day and a great party. Happy Birthday Mom!
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Old Apr 1st, 2015, 09:58 AM
  #16  
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@Jamierin - sorry for the delay in getting back to you! We loved Solage. I would say that a lot of the crowd was late 30s, early 40s, definitely some euro types thrown in. It's a good place, no question.

@James-gearsoke - I completely agree with you. Mustards is a MUST!

@AliciaJ - Thanks for your nice words. How long is your trip? What are your plans? Right now anything sounds much better than Boston!!
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Old Apr 1st, 2015, 10:19 AM
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50 AND A DAY

To my absolute amazement the next morning was not half as bad as I expected it to be. I can only point to the reservoirs of water I consumed before bed as the only plausible explanation for saving me from a hangover. And ever the stoic, the Birthday Girl was up at 5 a.m. working away on her laptop. She made no mention of a hangover, though I think it must have been pretty bad as she popped an aspirin and politely declared, “oh dear, I think I may have had a little too much bubbly yesterday!,” as she headed off to pilates class. As for Ainsley and Bailey, darn them, I’ve concluded that they are bullet proof!!

A bit later, after preppily dolling ourselves up for the day, we rendezvoused again at Solbar, where this time I ordered a mind-blowing Brioche and Pistachio French Toast. Mind-blowing! Whoever does the cooking at Solbar gets my complete and utter stamp of approval. I should add here that they also have fabulous fruit and vegetable smoothies – I particularly recommend the appropriately named “detox”. Delicious!!

After a great breakfast, we stopped and played a real game of bocce (much more successful this time - and the Birthday Girl won!) before hopping on the complimentary bicycles that Solage provides and making our way over to Chateau Montelena. None of us are frequent or even regular bike riders, but the journey was not too bad, despite some uneven blacktop, pedal heavy drivers and a somewhat harrowing stretch of road/highway that led up to the scenic driveway leading into the property. In all, the ride probably took us under half an hour and was a lot of fun.

Chateau Montelena is gorgeous. Lots of stone, with vines and green growths on it. The place almost has a medieval feel to it. And the property is big, with nice views from the Chateau, which include a small lake. Probably a nice place to come and picnic (if they allow that sort of thing).

After yesterday’s excesses, I didn’t have much of an appetite for wine – I don’t think any of us did – so we split two tastings among the four of us and all of us spat except for Ainsley, who declared that she’d earned the right to imbibe after our grilling of Brooks the day before. Well, fair is fair, I guess.

The wines we tried (in no particular order) were:

Napa Valley Chardonnay – Crisp and tasty. Versatile and would seemingly work well with lots of meals. The Birthday Girl’s favorite. While excellent, I’m not sure I could distinguish it from other Napa chardonnays.

Montelena Estate Zinfandel – I am a sucker for zin. Nothing more to it than that. Yum.

Montelena Estate Cabernet – Solid. Not a stand out, but I wouldn’t object if someone served me a glass after work.

2007 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Quite good. But, again, I couldn’t pick it out of a lineup.

After some nice pictures in front of the lake (nice swans! – at least, I think they were swans!), we mounted our bikes again and rode off into the distance. And we did go a pretty good distance, all the way back across the cute, quaint, somewhat potholed town of Calistoga to Clos Pegase. It was a nice ride and the breeze felt very refreshing on what was fast becoming another quite warm day.

I hate to say it, and I know I am in the minority here, but I actually found Clos Pegase unattractive. The surrounding grounds are absolutely wonderful. But the modern and very geometric winery really just wasn’t my thing. When I think wine country, I’m much more a fan of venues like Chateau Montelena or Domaine Carneros. But that’s just me. For what it’s worth, Bailey really liked the architecture. And there were some cool statutes on display on the grounds, so that gets it some points too. It’s a nice place to stop if you are in Calistoga.

Once again, we decided to share two tastings among the four of us. The wines we tried, in no particular order, were:

Clos Pegas Chardonnay – This came from Mitsuko’s Vineyard and was good, but I have to admit that by this point the wines were getting indistinguishable. I have in my notes that I detected lots of lemon in the taste, and I am a big fan of the lemon genre. Particularly on hot days!

Clos Pegase Rose – I have to confess that I actually drank this one rather than spitting it out. I didn't feel like drinking, but I liked it that much. I have a weakness for rose. Yum.

Cabernet Franc – Rich flavors, but maybe a little heavy given that it was getting hotter out.

Syrah – Heavy, but too good to mind. My favorite type of wine for winter. (Although if I never see another snowflake, that will be too soon!!!!!).

After walking around the nice grounds for a bit, we got back on our bikes and rode back to Solage to check out. So sad! But what a wonderful place! It gets my highest marks and I hope to be back soon!!

We hopped in the car and soon Solage was behind us. For whatever reason, the traffic was a bit better today than it had been the day before and driving was an absolute pleasure. Soon we came up on the famous “Napa Valley Sign” and hopped out to snap a picture. It was a little breezy and we had to take four shots before we landed one without someone's hair in her face. Despite yesterday’s mischief, the Birthday Girl remained intent on ticking off all the boxes on her Birthday’s Scavenger Hunt!

And tick the scavenger boxes off we did, when we stopped at our last objective, Gott’s Roadside in St. Helena. What an operation! I mean, lets face facts, this is mostly a burger place, but what a line! However, in fairness, it lived up to the hype. I had some lovely Mahi Mahi Tacos and wound up coveting the Birthday Girl’s Ahi Burger, which had some nice spice. Imagine – a quasi-fast food place with an Ahi Burger. Only in Napa!

Having been the only one drinking during our morning visits, Ainsley was working on a nice buzz by lunch and suggested that we call Brooks to say hello. Continuing his good first impression, the Birthday Girl was duly impressed (as was I) when he picked up the phone in Seersucker. (It turns out, he actually is a real-deal dandy – and Mom’s new best friend at family functions!). He had a good sense of humor about the day before and had some good-natured fun with the Birthday Girl by declining to reveal the contents of their early evening conversation during our limo ride home which she predictably didn’t remember fully. In any event, her three daughters had a good laugh as she turned bright red and retreated into the collar of her navy shirt when, despite her repeated entreaties, Brooks responded jokingly, “You were - hic! - a ‘lillll - hic! - tosssssssicated’ and a gentleman never tells!”.

After lunch we headed over to Robert Sinskey, a spot we had meant to visit the year before, but hadn’t quite made it to. It did not disappoint. I loved the wood and brick décor of their tasting room. Very warm feeling! I was honestly wined out, so I decided to pass while Mom and the girls shared a tasting. Given that I didn’t try anything, I sadly have no more notes to share, but they must be doing something right when it comes to Cabernet Franc, because that was the unanimous favorite.

The afternoon was moving along and so we continued to drive towards the town of Napa and our inevitable exit from this wonderful region. Our last stop of the day was Artessa. This may have been my favorite winery that we visited. Again, I was driving and didn’t partake in any samples, but to my surprise, the architecture of this place enchanted me. Basically, it is built into a hill and offers commanding views of the Valley below, not to mention great art. James Bond's answer to a winery! I didn’t expect to like it so much, as the aesthetic is definitely modern, but the surroundings are too good to ignore. As an added benefit, Ainsley, Bailey and Mom seemed to enjoy the wine, so maybe I’ll pick up a bottle next time I see it in Boston.

All good things must end, and thus did our visit to Napa and the much anticipated birthday weekend. But we had more than enough to smile and laugh about from our wonderful weekend to sustain us through the less than ideal traffic en route back to San Francisco. And the red eye . . . how un-fun!

Overall the trip was wonderful. I can’t wait to return to Napa Valley some time soon. There’s so much more to see and do. Cheers and thanks for reading!!
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Old Apr 7th, 2015, 07:27 PM
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Just in a nick of time, Blondie! I’m off to Napa for a Bachelorette in two weeks!!

Thanks for another entertaining and hilarious trip report. Love the dress code and scavenger hunt you came up with for the big day. Sounds like it was a splendid birthday and weekend and I’m sure your Mom enjoyed every minute (especially at the end of the big day!). Rest assured she definitely got more love than and forethought than our Bachelorette is getting!
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Old Apr 9th, 2015, 09:55 AM
  #19  
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We did Easter Brunch in Yountville. So cool driving past "The Crusher" looking down into the valley and seeing the rain clouds coming in over the mountains.

We got there about an hour early (no traffic! Another Easter Miracle!) so we took a nice long walk up Washington St in the rain and then back to Hurley's for a fine brunch.
It smelled sooooo goooood....especially when you walked by Thomas Keller's gardens across from his Fr. Laundry.

As for Gott's.....nothing beats a nice long Summer bicycle ride thru the vineyards with a midway stop there for the ahi burger, sweet potato fries and an ice cold soda.

Thx for getting us fired up about NV/SV again.
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 09:47 AM
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Blondie . . . what a great trip report . . . was laughing out loud at so many parts . . . sounds like a birthday Mom will never forget . . . or in some portions, never remember . . . !

Shopping is a great idea for fashionistas like yourselves . . . the outlets are fun too . . . Oxbow never disappoints . . . and I will try out your clever people watching game next time I am stranded somewhere . . .

Brooks sounds adorable . . . and like a very good sport. How is Mom's bocce game normally . . . not my strong suit either!

Hubbie adds a big belated Happy Birthday! He remains convinced she is turning 40 . . .

It's already April . . . three-peat in the fall???
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