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28 Day Road Trip to the Northwest from Chicago

28 Day Road Trip to the Northwest from Chicago

Old Jan 16th, 2017, 09:55 PM
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28 Day Road Trip to the Northwest from Chicago

Our family is planning a 28 day road trip this summer from mid July to mid August from Chicago to the Northwest. We have kids age 12 and 7. We have done long road trips before (last one was 2 years ago to the Southwest - 7000 miles in 35 days) so although we know it will be a lot of driving, we feel comfortable with it.
Our priorities are Glacier National Park and Washington and Oregon. We also plan to spend some time in Yellowstone (we were there 5 years ago, but stayed with my husbands family in Grand Teton and only did two day trips into Yellowstone). We like hiking, swimming and outdoor activities and National Parks. The kids LOVE exploring tidepools and seeing animals. I have come up with an initial itinerary, but am looking or suggestions or changes to itinerary if we need more time in any places (but then where to take that time away from because 28 days is our max). We do prefer staying at one location for 2 nights, but if it is better we will move more frequently. We will stay in the parks if it is difficult to get in and out, but with kids staying outside the park with a pool is always nice too. Also looking for ideas of fun things to do or see. We have never been to Oregon, Washington, Idaho, Montana or North Dakota, so all suggestions are appreciated!
July 17 Drive to Mitchell, SD for overnight
July 18 Visit Badlands, Overnight in Rapid City area (any suggestions of best city to stay in?)
July 19 Mount Rushmore, Custer State Park, possibly Jewel Cave
July 20 Drive to Yellowstone (someone on another thread suggested stopping at Little Big Horn Battlefield - and driving the Beartooth Highway in - what do you think? Last time we stayed overnight in Cody and went to the Rodeo.) Overnight in the park (I have reservation at Lake Hotel right now, but am hoping to find something in the north part of the park).
July 21 - Explore Yellowstone - (I have overnight booked at Mammoth Hot Springs Cabin, but am hoping to switch if possible to the Old Faithful area)
July 22 - Explore Yellowstone - I have overnight booked at Lake Hotel
July 23 - Drive through Grand Teton Overnight in Jackson
July 24 - maybe a rafting trip in the morning then drive to near Craters of the Moon National Monument for overnight
July 25 - Explore Craters of the Moon then drive 10 hours to Crater Lake National Park - overnight near there
July 26 - Explore Crater Lake Overnight near there
July 27 - Drive to Portland for overnight
July 28 - Portland
July 29 - Oregon Coast (stay near Cannon Beach) (or should we consider further south?)
July 30 - Oregon Coast (stay near Cannon Beach)
July 31 - Oregon Coast (stay near Cannon Beach)
August 1 - Olympic - stay Lake Quinault Lodge
August 2 - Olympic - stay at Sol Duc Hot Springs (would this be a good option? Or do two nights in Lake Crescent Lodge or Port Angeles?)
August 3 - Olympic - Lake Crescent Lodge or Port Angeles
August 4 - Overnight in Seattle
August 5 - Day Trip to Mount Ranier - overnight in Seattle
August 6 - Seattle
August 7 - 10 hour drive to Kalispell, Montana
August 8 - Glacier National Park - still looking for overnight in the park - have something booked in East Glacier as a back up.
August 9 - Glacier National Park - overnight booked at Rising Sun Motor Inn & Cabins (trying to change to Many Glaciers or Swift Current if possible)
August 10 - Glacier National Park - overnight booked at Rising Sun Motor Inn & Cabins (trying to change to Many Glaciers or Swift Current if possible)
August 11 - 9 hour drive to near Theodore Roosevelt National Park
August 12 - Explore Theodore Roosevelt then drive to Fargo
August 13 - Drive home to Chicago

Should we skip Portland and do more of the southern coast or add time somewhere else?
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Old Jan 17th, 2017, 07:58 AM
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July 27 looks like a boring freeway leg to me. I would depart CL's north exit to OR-38, take it to the freeway, freeway north to exit 150 and OR-38 to the coast and up US-101. Lots to see and do. When you reach OR-18 just north of Lincoln City, use it to get to the aviation museum cum waterpark and on into the city. Or not. Time and weather permitting I would choose Mt. St. Helens over a quickie Portland visit...it deserves a couple of days.

Do not stay at Sol Duc Hot Springs. They are not natural springs but are in fact three concrete wading pools; the cabins are nothing to write home about. Try to get into Lake Crescent Lodge or Port Angeles
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Old Jan 17th, 2017, 11:12 AM
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So you would suggest just skipping Portland and having more time on the Oregon Coast and Olympic? If I were to try to incorporate Mount Saint Helens, where would you suggest I add it? It seems pretty far out of my way on the route I have right now.

Thanks for the suggestion about Sol Duc Hot Springs. We did a natural hot springs in Colorado, and that was great, but wading pools doesn't sound all that interesting. I will keep trying for the other lodging.
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Old Jan 17th, 2017, 03:07 PM
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My first reaction is that you're crowding the schedule with a lot of long drives between destinations that don't warrant the days allocated. (This is just my opinion, and others may well disagree.)

For example, the Craters of the Moon - Crater Lake days involve long and hot drives for destinations that I cynically call "two hour" national parks. Crater Lake is beautiful to be sure, but that beauty comes at a price of some very long drives. Could those same hours be reallocated with equal or greater benefit? In my view, yes.

I would head from Jackson to the Columbia River Gorge and add the Crater Lake days to the Gorge or the coast. I'm very fond of the gorge with kids; there are terrific hikes around the many waterfalls. (Google images for Oneonta Gorge to see what I mean.) You can ride the chair lift at Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood up to the permanent icefields where they actually ski in the summer; visit Herman the Sturgeon and feed the baby salmon at the Bonneville Hatchery, visit the Stonehenge replica at Maryhill (and visit the funky Maryhill Museum for Rodin in the sagebrush.) Or watch (or join) the windsurfers at Hood River. Drive the Hood River Valley "fruit loop." There are numerous activities and fabulous sights all within minutes of each other; it's a terrific area in which to spend a couple of days.

I know it's heresy but I'm not the biggest fan of Cannon Beach and that part of the Oregon coast. It's a little too cutesy for my taste, and although the rocky beaches are fine, they don't hold a candle (IMO) to the beaches along the coastal strip of Olympic National Park.

If it was me I'd spend time in the Columbia Gorge, then visit Portland for a day, but then head north to Mount St. Helens (a fascinating side trip from Portland) then head west on WA Highway 4 along the north shore of the Columbia to Cape Disappointment at the river's (awesome) mouth. Cape Disappointment has it all - waves on rocks and cliffs, lighthouses, a terrific Lewis and Clark interpretive center (this is where the reached the Pacific) and Waikiki Beach. Stay in the little fishing village of Ilwaco, or else in Astoria (cheaper and less touristy than Cannon Beach.)

Then head north to Olympic NP. You're already booked into Lake Quinault, which is good, but the main action is a little further up the coast - Ruby Beach just north of Kalaloch, and the magnificent Hoh Valley rain forest (where you're as likely to see huge Roosevelt Elk in the gloom as anywhere.)

Near La Push are more spectacular beaches. Visit First Beach (watch out for vampires and werewolves) or marvelous Rialto Beach close by. If your kids like tidepools and the like, we're talking heaven.

As said above, skip Sol Duc and stay in PA or Crescent Lake if you can get space. If you bring passports, you might consider taking the ferry from Port Angeles to Victoria BC as foot passengers for a day trip. The Inner Harbour in Victoria is very picturesque (and mobbed with tourists) or you could go whale watching - many operations that leave from near the PA ferry dock.

This part of the trip - https://goo.gl/maps/T5Gefx9egvB2

From the Olympic Peninsula travel to Seattle via the Bainbridge Island ferry. I would actually forego the day trip to Mount Rainier and instead save it for your exit from Puget Sound. Drive to Paradise from Seattle and walk around through the wildflowers if they're out, then instead of returning to Seattle continue east from Paradise on the (gorgeous) Stevens Canyon Rd. past the beautiful "Reflection lakes" and connect with US 12. Follow US 12 over White Pass (more views of Rainier and other mountains) down to Yakima. Spend the night in Yakima or up in Ellensburg (a nice town with a good "old west" feel.) This will give you a head start on the long drive to Kalispell and Glacier NP. Map - https://goo.gl/maps/vFFHCBQqegF2

Lots of words but hope you get the drift.
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Old Jan 18th, 2017, 08:09 AM
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Gardyloo - So you think this option would be better than forgoing Portland and spending some time on the central Oregon coast? I do like it because it includes Mount Saint Helens and my son was really excited to see that. I did an amended schedule below. Is 2 nights in Illwaco and 4 nights in Olympic the best option? Do you suggest keeping the first overnight at Lake Quinault, or should we just visit that area during the day. Do you suggest an overnight or two in Forks, or should we just stay in Lake Crescent or Port Angeles and day trip there? My kids LOVE tidepools and the beach. I love the option of visiting Mount Ranier on the way out of Seattle. I still gave myself 3 nights in Seattle, but I am flexible if you think I should use that night somewhere else. Thanks for your help!

July 23 - Drive through Grand Teton Overnight in Jackson
July 24 - Drive through Craters of the Moon National Monument on the way to Columbia River Gorge for Overnight
July 25 - Columbia River Gorge area
July 26 - Portland
July 27 - Portland
July 28 - Visit Mount Saint Helens then overnight in Illwaco
July 29 - Illwaco
July 30 - Olympic
July 31 - Olympic
August 1 - Olympic
August 2 - Olympic
August 3 - Ferry to Seattle
August 4 - Seattle
August 5 - Seattle
August 6 - Mount Ranier Overnight in Ellensburg
August 7 - 7 hour drive to Kalispell, Montana
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Old Jan 18th, 2017, 10:20 AM
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Note that by "Ilwaco" I'm really including everything between Ecola/Cannon Beach and Cape Disappointment or the Long Beach peninsula around Willapa Bay. It's all quite easily reached with a day in the area. Ilwaco itself is quite tiny.

Along the same lines, Portland itself is fun but kids at your ages I'm thinking staying somewhere to the east of town - in the western Gorge, maybe someplace like Troutdale - would give easy access to either the central Gorge/Mt. Hood area or to central Portland. I'd recommend you do some research on kid-friendly activities in Portland proper and decide if staying in the downtown area would be better vs. staying on the outskirts. There's no right or wrong answer. Driving around the Portland/Gorge region is very easy, so pick a base and do day trips radiating from it.

As far as the coast and Olympic peninsula, sort of the same story. The big challenge with Olympic National Park is accommodation. It's extremely scarce within the park itself - really only a handful of properties including national park concessions like Lake Quinault Lodge or Kalaloch Lodge on the west coast. There are a few private properties near Lake Quinault and more in Forks and La Push, but not much on the north shore besides Crescent Lake and Port Angeles. Staying in PA and commuting to La Push or the Hoh Valley is a major schlep through pretty blah countryside for the most part. So you kind of need to plot out your plan for Olympic NP well in advance, and resign yourselves to (probably) having to drive some distance to and from the scenic highlights. It's just the way the cookie crumbles.

Same for Seattle - lodging is VERY expensive during the cruise season, but with a car you can stay outside the city proper and commute in; whatever you pay for parking near the main attractions will be more than made up in hotel savings. But again, having a game plan, as with Portland, is a must.

I think the plan is pretty good as you've gotten it, but a couple of tweaks for you to investigate. First, consider traveling from the Olympic Peninsula to Seattle via Whidbey Island. You'd take a ferry from Port Townsend (pretty Victorian town) to Coupeville on Whidbey. Visit Fort Casey near the ferry dock on the island (cool coastal defense guns, lighthouse) then stop in Langley (pretty waterfront village) before taking the ferry to Mukilteo.

I am very taken with the location of a particular hotel in Mukilteo - the Silver Cloud - https://www.silvercloud.com/mukilteo/ - which is built over the water and is steps from Ivar's, a fun waterfront restaurant (very kid-friendly) as well as Mukilteo's cute lighthouse and great beach (more driftwood and puddles). The hotel also offers a free shuttle to the nearby Future of Flight center, where you can tour the big Boeing factory, home of the jumbo jets and the biggest building in the world. Note kids have to be taller than 4 feet to go on the tour. https://www.futureofflight.org/

Map - https://goo.gl/maps/Y2YeAMMmcLr

On the same lines, the Museum of Flight in Seattle is a real attraction for kids - lots of hands-on experiences, cool exhibits, and the gift shop is dynamite. Cafe's okay too. http://www.museumofflight.org/

Oh, just caught myself. Your schedule has you in Seattle on Seafair weekend. Seafair is an annual summer festival that features hydroplane races on Lake Washington, visits by numerous tall ships and navy vessels (ours and others') and... the Blue Angels. The "Blues" land and take off from the Museum of Flight, which makes it both crowded and a lot of fun; their performance route is over Lake Washington, which is quite a scene with hundreds of boats parked on the water. Seafair doesn't add especially to hotel bookings (more a locals' thing) but it doesn't matter since the hotels are already packed anyway. Something to consider in your planning I guess. http://www.seafair.com/

Random ramble and thoughts. Hope it's not too confusing.
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Old Jan 18th, 2017, 11:16 AM
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Black hills: given the time you have I like your list. Additional ideas: visit Mount Rushmore at night, Driving the needles highway, bear country USA (kids like it), reptile garden, the mammoth site (for Dino loving kids), drive past crazy horse monument (can see most of it from road), a chuckwagon dinner at night.
Places to stay: Rapid city works, but given your short time look at Staying in Hill city or Keystone.
Leaving the hills to Wyoming: I would take 385 north through the hills to Deadwood instead of the interstate instead of the interstate around the hills (slower but more interesting). You can also take a side trip to Devils Tower to break up your drive.
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Old Jan 19th, 2017, 12:26 PM
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Gardyloo - Thank you for clarifying. I love the idea of staying at a central base outside Portland and see the entire area. I was able to book something in East Portland that should work. I booked 4 nights and I am not sure if I should have just done 3. Do you think 1 or 2 days in the Gorge area and then 1 day in downtown Portland? My kids are excited we will be able to see Mount St. Helens on the way out of the area.

I also booked something near Ilwaco for 2 nights. Is that enough or do I reallocate one of the nights from the Portland area here.

I will have 4 nights in Olympic. Should I do a night in Lake Quinault? It is still available.

The other 3 nights: I could do 2 in Forks and one in Port Angeles or 1 in Forks and 2 in Port Angeles. What would you suggest? Lake Crescent only has availability for one night in the middle, so we might have to skip it.

If I add Mukilteo in, do I just do that one night and then find a different hotel a little closer to Seattle?

Thanks for the info on Seafair. It gives us something else to see!
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Old Jan 19th, 2017, 01:09 PM
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bigchi - Thanks for the additional ideas! I think we might do Mt. Rushmore at night to give us more time during the day for other stuff. I wish we had more time, but we had to cut somewhere.

I really appreciate the route suggestions! I think we will do the more scenic route out through the hills.
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Old Jan 19th, 2017, 03:44 PM
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Regarding the Gorge v. Portland, pick 'em. I personally think the Gorge has more to offer the kids than a big city, even though Portland is a good one. If you get a clear day, a ride on the gondola up to the Oregon Health Sciences Univ. campus is fun, and if Mt. Hood is out the view from the top of the gondola is a knockout.

Gondola - http://gardyloo.us/20100510_23s.JPG
View (using telephoto) - http://gardyloo.us/20100510_21b.JPG

I think two nights out on the coast - Ilwaco or on the Oregon side of the river - is fine. You could spend a good part of the third day - the one that will end at Lake Quinault - in the same area. The drive from Ilwaco up to Lake Quinault is pretty blah once you're past Willapa Bay, pedal > metal (within the speed limit obviously.)

With 4 nights in Olympic NP I think one at Lake Quinault is terrific; it's a fun old hotel and the Quinault rain forest is marvelous and good for walks. I would do one night at Quinault, one at Forks and two in PA.

Day 1 - Ilwaco to Quinault
Day 2 - Quinault to Ruby Beach to Hoh to Forks
Day 3 - Forks to La Push to Port Angeles
Day 4 - Hurricane Ridge; alternate: day trip to Victoria
Day 5 - PA to Mukilteo via Whidbey; alternate: Hurricane Ridge, then to Mukilteo via Whidbey (still an okay day).
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