MelissaHI

My friend and I have ONE free day before our conference in Philadelphia; we're both arriving from other cities for other work obligations so there is no way for us to get to Lancaster earlier to spend more time.

I should be pulling in to Lancaster at about 1 p.m. on a Thursday. Will pick up my friend at the Amtrak Station, and we both plan to leave Lancaster the next day at about 4 p.m. to get to our first meeting in Philly that evening.

Neither of us has been to PA before, but we're intrigued with seeing the Amish, eating the food, and having a "typical" experience....as best we can. We know this is really squeezing it, but that's all the time we got.

What are your favorite things to see/do/eat in the area? Do you have any B&B recommendations that are central? I realize Lancaster's a big place, so I'm not trying to see it ALL, I'm just trying to figure out the best use of our time there.

bookhall

Lancaster Central Market, for one. Come hungry. http://server1.fandm.edu/departments...Site/FSet.html

PaulRabe

Unless you want to visit every antique shop in the area, one day in Lancaster will be fine. There are many interesting places to visit and go shopping, but (1) most have nothing whatsoever to do with the Amish, with some in dire contradiction to their beliefs, (2) there is a vast amount of overlap -- my wife loves the fact that there are a dozen places with hand-made quilts, but most people would only need to see a couple, (3) most of the stores and restaurants have nothing you can't find in 100 other places. To see a good chunk of the stuff UNIQUE to Lancaster can easily be done in 24 hours.

You didn't say if you would have a car. If so, drive around the back roads east of the city of Lancaster, stopping wherever you see a farm selling something that interests you. Make sure you get a whoopie pie and a shoo-fly pie!

As you do this, please remember that the Amish are not tourist guides, zoo residents, or relics in a museum. They do not discuss their beliefs with strangers and do NOT want to be photographed -- DON'T ASK!

There are tour guides who can share their intimate knowledge of Amish life in a tour of an hour or so; this may be a good intro.

I hate to ask, but what do you mean by a "typical experience?" The most common experience for visitors is to shop, eat at an over-priced faux-Amish restaurant, and gawk at the residents. I hope that's not what you plan to do!

pal440fcv

The prior responders were perhaps not as specific as you would like. Yes, there is much about "Amish" country that is not Amish, but if you do want to get a look at the countryside, which is really very picturesque and not quite like anywhere else I've been (and I've been around) there are two "main routes" out of Lancaster that you can take that will put you out in the countryside where you will see Amish farms (look for the absence of overhead wiring - many of the plain sects own no phones or electrical appliances), schools and meetinghouses and likely encounter horse drawn farm implements and buggies. Both are east from downtown Lancaster via US 30 -- PA Route 340 East through Bird in Hand and Intercourse, a tourist route which roughly parallels a busier tourist route US 30 to its north, or PA Route 743 through Strasburg to Gap, which roughly parallels route US 30 to its south. The former has its tourist places (restaurants and gift shops) in the villages, but the farther east you go the more you'll be in Amish farm country and away from the tourist places or, better yet, take a left turn somewhere on a side road going north and explore the back country roads - almost all are paved. The other, more southerly route has fewer tourist places, aside from in and around the village of Strasburg. Again, though, go east of Strasburg and take a side road to see the real countryside. When you're ready for the "touristy" side, hit the gift shops and restaurants along PA 340 or US Route 30, but remember all that you'll get is not necessarily Amish. But then, there is much that is "Lancaster County" but not necessarily Amish, particularly when it comes to food -- my relatives are Lancaster County folk (not plain people, though) and, yes, they do eat "chow chow", "pot pie", "shoo fly" pie and many other local dishes that you may find in some form or other in many of the restaurants in the area. Get a good local map (try AAA for a "Southcentral PA" map or the local tourist office off Route 30 at the Greenfield Road exit), and happy travels.

MelissaHI

Wow! You guys rock. Yes, I will have a car. Unfortunately I am directionally challenged so I hope my friend can be a good co-pilot.

Now that you reminded me about not photographing the Amish people, I remember it....gosh! what if I forgot that important fact? is there anything else we should know so we don't make total faux pas?

Thanks so much...your posts help a lot!

MelissaHI

Also, as a non-Amish person, should I be careful to dress a certain way? For example, in Thailand, you are not allowed to wear shorts or tank tops into the temples (as a sign of respect) no matter how oppressively hot & humid it is.

Which town do you recommend staying in?

Retired_teacher

Basically you'll have to decide if you'd want to focus your 24 hours in the city of Lancaster, or head out to Amish country to the south & east. The Lancaster Central Market is an amazing experience, but unfortunately it isn't open on Thursday. (Tuesday, Friday, & Saturday only) From what you indicated in your OP, I'd recommend heading out of Lancaster on Route 30 East to take in the small towns following the route(s) described in pal440fcy's post. I'd focus on the villages of Intercourse, Bird in Hand, and Strasburg, Strasburg being my favorite as the town itself is far less touristy. I'd recommend a farm stay if you're going to be traveling after the kids are back in school, although there are also many wonderful in town B&B options as well.... See http://www.800padutch.com/25things.shtml No need to worry about dress codes as your contact with the Amish will be limited. You may see them driving by in their horse drawn buggy, or going into a open air market with basket in hand, but you won't be doing an overnight in their home. Do try to get off on some back country roads for a true feel for the area. One of my all time favorite 'visual' memories involves two young Amish boys in traditional dress, navigating their wagon through an old covered bridge... kneeling on one leg inside the wooden structure with their other leg furiously propelling the wagon forward. Fortunately I caught their movement inside the bridge as I approached and waited.... so keep a watchful eye out when driving on those back country roads!

MelissaHI

Thank you! yes, i'm in the process of getting a map but the information on the little towns is important. I hope it's not difficult to navigate there! I live in Hawaii so the driving is relatively easy...not to mention you can't really get lost on an island. Kal (from this board) told me he got lost looking for one of the towns you mentioned so that got me worried.

I will be there on October 18, leaving on the 19th, so maybe I can catch the Friday market!

Retired_teacher

Melissa, my thought was that you wouldn't want to return to downtown Lancaster for the Friday market if you stayed southeast of the city on the 18th. as you'd be backtracking... Perhaps one of the markets in Bird in Hand would suffice? Not to worry though, you won't have the opportunity to become very lost on those back country roads. That concern should be focused on Philadelphia instead. Be sure to get yourself a good city map and plan your route into the city before hand. Some neighborhoods are not the safest areas for two young women to be in after dark (including some near the historic area and UP), so check with your hotel or conference people before venturing out at night........ Don't I sound just like a mom (of two daughters, 31 & 35)?

MelissaHI

too funny, you do sound like a mom! Love it. Actually I am ditching the car and training it up to Philly. we will be with so many other people that it will be hard for us with a car!

happytourist

The Mennonite Information Center is a good place to get an overview of the Amish/Mennonites with films and books. I think they also will provide for a fee a guide who will drive you around the countryside. That may have to be reserved in advance.

longhorn55

You don't mention when you are going, but if you have enough time you can get a free map and visitor's guide from the Pennsylvania Dutch Convention and Visitor's Bureau. I got this information from them for my trip last year and it was quite helpful. The website is: www.padutchcountry.com

MelissaHI

Hi there, I did contact the website and am waiting for my map. Thanks!! I'll be there October 18 to 19.

elberko

Hi Melissa,

I can't think of anything to add, except maybe not to expect anything TOO quaint & simple around Lancaster, you have to do some searching to find those. I'm hoping that warning you will keep you from being disappointed. For every gorgeous field being plowed by huge draft horses, or little girls shyly waving from the back of a buggy, you'll see 10 tacky outlet malls, etc.

I'm glad you're ditching the car, you'll be glad you did, and wave to me when you get to the Malvern station!

Have a great time!
~Liz

MelissaHI

ELBERKO!!!! Long time no "see!" I'm still wearing your pin.

hawaiiantraveler

Mels,

Who are you renting your car from?

Use someone like Hertz with "Neverlost" or someone with a similar navigation system. Just put the address or location or restaurants or whatever in and presto, you'll never get lost again. I never rent a car without it now.
I'll talk to you more about it at the gtg.

http://www.800padutch.com/amish.shtml

http://www.co.lancaster.pa.us/lanco/site/default.asp


Stop by Hershey PA and eat some chocolate!

Aloha!

MelissaHI

HT, I haven't rented the car yet. Still searching. I know it's kinda cutting it close!

SuCo27

Given that you are leaving on the train and the train station is in downtown Lanc. I'd recommend ending your trip there. Here's how I'd do it:

Pick your friend up Thursday afternoon and head out to the 'Amish Country'. Drive around and get lost (don't worry, you can't get too lost...this is the northeast, where it seems you're never more than 10 minutes from a major highway). Check out the PA Dutch restaurants (I can't recommend any personally...I find 'typical' PA Dutch food incredibly bland and boring, but then I've grown up with it ). Do a little shopping. Try Kitchen Kettle Village and the Bird In Hand Farmer's Market. Look into staying at the Amish View Inn. People seem to love it (again, I live here, so haven't stayed there).

When you get up Friday AM, have breakfast at Jenny's Diner (on Rt. 30, just east of 896). It looks like nothing from the outside, but is locally known as the best diner around. Portions are enormous and it's super cheap. Also, they have the best mashed potatoes in town...I always get a side, even with my eggs! Then head back to downtown Lancaster. Go to Central Market. Check out some amazing architecture while walking through the city. If you like theater or opera, tour the Fulton Opera House. It's the oldest continually operating theater in the country and absolutely beautiful inside. Also take a peek at the concert hall being built next door. The acoustical designer also designed the Kennedy Center and the Metropolitan Opera House. Supposedly it's going to have some of the best acoustics in the world. If you like funky shops, check out the 300 block of N. Queen St. For lunch I'd recommend Checker's Bistro (if you keep the car while in the city), Character's Pub (one block from Central Market, but tucked back in an alley, so a little hard to find) or just eat at market. Then head back to the train station for your ride to Philly.

One thing you should know tho. There is only one car rental place in downtown and it's Hertz on Queen St. It's not all that close to the train station but the local cab company is housed in the same building as Hertz, so you can get a quick and cheap ride to your train. Just leave yourself a little time as our cabs aren't the greatest. I don't know what would happen if you picked up a cab at their terminal, but if you call it from anywhere else in the city it takes at least an hour to get picked up. Or just drop the car off as soon as you arrive in downtown and walk thru the city towards the train station...that'd probably be the best route. You really don't need a car in this city. And from Hertz you can see the Lanc County Prison across the street (only in Lancaster is the prison a castle ) Using a car rental company from outside the city could be a little more complicated. You could get a cab from there to the train station (and wait an hour for it to pick you up) or perhaps you could arrange for the rental co. to drop you off at the station or pick up the car there...don't know for sure if they'd do either, but it doesn't hurt to ask...especially if it'll save you money!

I would say don't miss Central Market though. It's small, but amazing and full of history. Pick up some fudge from the PA Fudge Company and some herbs or loose tea from The Herb Shop! (Friends own the Fudge Co and my grandparents own The Herb Shop, so I've gotta give them a little plug! )

Anyway, sorry to be so wordy...just wanted to help! I hope you have a great time no matter what!

By the way, my grandparents are leaving Sunday for Maui. I'm so jealous! Of them for getting to visit and of you for getting to live there!

MelissaHI

WOW, fantastic information!! OK I didn't know Hertz was the only place nearby in town. I have been searching on Kayak.com for prices but they only return Avis. I just went to Hertz and their prices are at least $30 more.

So wait...if I stop by the Herb Shop with some chocolate macadamias and drop your name to your grandparents, will that get me a discount?? Just kidding.

SuCo27

Heehee! I don't know if they would give you a discount, but if you bring ME some chocolate macadamias and tell me what you want from the Herb Shop, I'll get it for you for free! J/K!

If Avis can save you some money, I'd at least call them and see if they can work something out to get you to the train station from their terminal. Both of the Avis locations in Lancaster are in heavily traveled areas and they're going to be awful around 3 on a Friday. I'd try to drop the car off early and have them drop you off in the city where you can walk around. You don't want to be stuck in traffic half an hour before your train leaves. Or like I said, see if they'll pick the car up at the train station...then you won't have to deal with the traffic. We did that once in Greece at the Santorini airport, but they never showed up to pick up the car. We had to leave the keys in the car and leave it unlocked so we didn't miss our flight. I still don't know if they got the car but we never saw a charge on our credit card for a new car, so I guess they did.

Let me know if you need anything else!