monpetit

We're just back(3 days...) from our 2 weeks in Montana.
That's really a very nice part of US.
Only complaint was the T°, high for this part of US(up to 98°F several days..).

Saturday,July 21st : Paris-Missoula via Chicago, by United Airlines.
Flight departs from CDG1, not the easiest terminal to find in Roissy, but the "plus" is that the planes are directly at gate...
(not as in CDG 2 for Delta or Air France).
We were in Economy plus and so more place
for the legs...In Chicago, the passage for the police was long(1 hour and 15 mn) but as we've 3 hours of connexions, no problem...
Arrival in Missoula at 7'20 after a 3 hours flight and we've taken our car at Alamo, a Subaru outback 4 wheels drive.
For the first night,I'd reserved at the Wingate Inn, not far from airport-due to the possibility for a late arrival...
Rooms are large, clean-bathroom with tub...
After a short shower, direction the Montana club for the dinner-3 miles drive-steak for
Erik and salmon for Anny and our first
"berries cake" of the sejour...
A good night and we were ready for the really first day of vacation...

Sunday, July the 22nd :
After the breakfast-complimentary continen-
tal at the Wingate(not bad-coffee acceptable)
direction Seeley Lake. We buy some bottle of waters, can of fruits, chicken breast and
cereal bars and find easely the Pyramid pass and lake trailhead(just at the exit of S.L., the Cottonwood road, and follow the indications...).
Very nice trail, not too difficult, with part of forest, part of meadows, some water,
an "unnamed" lake(till wednesday...),the pass
and finally the lake...A lot of squirrels,
birds,..but no bears...
The hike's lenght is 4,6-4,7 miles, depending the topos...(so 9/9,2 miles roundtrip...).
Anny swimm in the lake and find the water not too cold...The day T° was high and after she was not too long wet...After an hour stop
to eat, drink, look,...Back to the trailhead and direction the Rich ranch.
The ranch is in a large meadow, 10 miles from Seeley lake, surrounded by woods...
We arrive at 5'30 p.m. , take possession of our "room": n°3 in the Hunter's cabin.
Large, clean, no TV, no phone, no A/C.
Nice bathroom. A balcony dominating the meadow...
Diner was perfect-BBQ ribs/salad and our first "huckleberry" ice cream...Only problem : diner is at 6 p.m....a little early for us...
To be continued...

dfr4848

Really nice report. Look forward to more, especially whether you encountered any difficulties due to the fires.

monpetit

Monday, July the 23rd :
After a "ranch's breakfast"(it's not our first dude or working ranch and in all, meals are "consistent"...As we loop
we didn't gain weight, but impossible to loose some pounds...because it's consistent and good...).
This morning a first ride in the woods :
horses are "comfortable", not capricious
the scenery is "moovie-like" : in the woods, with some ponds, small meadows, small streams, 2-3 deers, one elk,...
Easy to dream...
After a 2h15mn ride,walking and trotting, lunch and as T° was #100°F,
no ride in the afternoon and so, Anny
and I, "abandonning" the others(which project a "seeley lake's" adventure-mu
seum and stores..) decide to go for another hike to the Morrel Falls.
Same road than Pyramid Lake, except for the last 2 miles to find the trailhead.
The hike is easy-2,6 miles(==>5,2 miles roundtrip) "quasi-flat",in the woods, longing a nice pond at 3/4 of the way and you arrive to a "5 floors high" waterfall(as described in the topos.. There is some log to sit and relax between waterfall,the stream
issued from it and the woods...
There was not to much people(a family of 3 when we arrived and we've been alone for our 3/4h of pause...).
On the way back, we encounter # 7-8 peoples...Before returning to the ranch,
Anny did'nt resist to a swimm in Salmon Lake-nice recreation area with possibility of fishing, boating, swimming or just...looking for guys like me who didn't like to swimm or boat...
Diner was excellent...(a beef ragout with "western potatoes" for which I could be able to damn me...-salad and
a nice apple pie + ice cream...).

Tuesday, July the 24th.
Today, rides in the morning and afternoon, because T° was more acceptable...An "usual" wood and "mountain" ride in the morning,
a "fast" ride in the afternoon with mix
of walking(+), trotting(++) and lopping(++).2h15 in the morning, 2h in the afternoon.
Just before the morning ride,after break
fast, when we get out of our cabin after
puting our ride's clothes, surprise, at
30 feet from our door, just at the beginning of the wood, ...a "moose" calf
just magic as apparition.He seems as surprised as us and after a look, he decide to ignore us for 2-3 mn, eating before returning in the woods...It was
a perfect timing and by chance I've my camera, ready and was able to shoot him...
After the afternon ride, back to Salmon lake for Anny for a swimm and I drive to
Seeley lake to complete our "organisation" for the continuation of the sejour : coolers, water, cans,...
On the road back, I was able to see
3-4 deers drinking in the river between Seeley Lake and Salmon lake. I recupere
Anny and back to the ranch for the diner
an "heaven's roasted chicken-beans/salad,berries and ice cream...
To be continued.

monpetit

Wednesday, July the 25th.
Today, all day ride...to Pyramid pass and lake...The wrangler ask us if we want to change but the scenery was so nice that we didn' want to private others from this hike and in fact we
were right...
First at the TH, the wrangler before
mounting go around and began to eat...some berries...We missed them on sunday...
Second,the ride is exactly the same as the hike, but from our horses, we discover a lot of things : mountain's panorama with snows-just because we were "higher" on horses, some waterfalls
and even the "unnamed" lake was different...and in fact, if we have to
trust our wrangler-this lake is named "double arrow" lake and it was named by her grand father who was C.B.
Rich, outfitter, rancher and poet...You can read some of his poems on pannels at TH of some hikes in Seeley Lake's
country...
Some of the riders swimm, all have a nice picnic and relax for 1h30...
It was time to come back...
At Seeley lake, we make a stop(to change a tyre on the horse's van...) and
so I was able to go to the trading post there and I find a nice "old" indian child mocassin, transforming in a purse, with beadworks...When I say old, I think it's from the 40' or 50'(due to the quality of leather, the type of zip.
For diner, it was the feast for me as it was "steak" time : delicious, cooked as I like-rare...with backed potatoes/salad and 2 sorts of pies: cinnammon-apple and peers...(the pies as GrandMa cooked in Disney...)...
Anny preferr to try the salmon and was not disppointed and she eats as all the pies...
This was the end of the "ranch's adventure" for us, as we quite the day after to go north-direction West Glacier...
To be continued.

cmcfong

I am enjoying the report. Were the fires an issue for you?

kureiff

There is a fire burning very near Seeley Lake right now, but it didn't start really blowing up until the third and fourth of August.

I'm also enjoying your trip report. And am anxiously awaiting the Glacier section.

monpetit

By chance, we've never been close to the fires...
Thursday, July the 26th.
My first idea was to drive to Missoula and then north by St Ignatius and the people's center before Glacier.
In fact, the trails we've hiked were so nice that we decide to drive the Swan Valley to be able to do a hike.
And so, the choice has been Cold lake trail a 4,6 miles roundtrip, easy along a stream that you cross sometimes
on wood bridges.
Vegetation is sometimes abundant and as it's advertised that it's bear country we clap our hand by times and talk to eachother...(we've not sacrified to the bearbells and we are not sure that bearspray was usefull...).The Lake is terrific, with some beaches(Anny...swimm) and is surrounded by moutains...I was able to "catch" 2 moutaingoats via the binoculars...
We stay our usual 1 hour break and then back to the car...
We drive thru Bigfork and stop at Kalispell only to finalize drinkings, snacks and bread for our Glacier's week.
Due to the contrasted review of lodging in Glacier(this forum, the guides, Tripadvisor...), choice has been difficult.
In this west part we choose the Belton Chalet.
The location is so so.We had a room with balcony(150$ with complimentary brekfast) : the balcony is from good size but the trees don't allow a good view of Glacier...The room is basic : a queenbed of acceptable size, a nighttable on one side, a great table on the other side.No TV, no phones, but you are not in Glacier for that...
A lavabo in the opposite/bed and a private bathroom with shower...An historical lodge...
After check-in and installation direction the North Fork road to hike Hidden Meadow.The drive is 30 miles, but it worth the trajet and the easy hike is nice, thru woods of "small trees" to a large meadow, with a big isolated pine in the middle, woods in the rear and a pond in front.
Normally, here is a lot of wild life, but due to the hot T°(98° at 6pm...) nothig for us.As we had snacks and dreinkins we decide to wait but thunderstorm with lightning were approching and so back to the car.The hike is 2,4 miles to the isolated pine and you can add what you want exploring the meadow...
After a shower-in the room...we decide to eat, based on the reviews at the Belton Chalet.In fact, casual italian menu without regional dishes(except the buffalo meatloaf...) : no trouts, no venaison,...So a mushroom bruscetta for me, no apptizer for Nny, a shrimp salad affor her-not bad- and a porkshop for me-good, an ice cream for her and a berres cobbler for me.2 glasses of wine(choice non exceptionnal..) and the bill was 95$..
And somes the problem...
As perhaps T° is too hot, there is no railway traffic during the day...But it's began at 6/6'30pm to 10/10'30and reapperas at 5'30am to 8'30...and the railway is just across the street/Chalet...
I forget to tell that to Anny and she was surprised(I wore my earplugs...).
And a question : why the railways conductors seem happy to horn when passing near house, hotels...
Don't tell me it's to advertise the cars because at Belton the road passes under the railway via a tunnel. It's a law or only to signal us they are working???
To be continued...tomorrow...It's 11pm there and I wake up early to work...

monpetit

Just reading my last paragraph and I was really tired yesterday , in view of the missing letters or inversion... jetlag??
Friday, July the 27th.
Complimentary Breakfast at Belton is
correct : a fruitjuice, choice of 2
between muffin/coffeecake/cookie/cereals
oatmeal/yogourth/minibagel-creamcheese
and a coffee.But what a coffee : the worst we've never had in US since 15 years...Even with a lot of cream and sugar there was no taste...And it was not that particulary day because it will be the same the days after...
Fortunately, just at the entry of West Glacier, there is an expresso store where we had a drink really named coffee...
Today's programm is a combo : Fish and Snyder lakes.
The TH is just across the street/Lake Mc Donald Lodge(same which goes to Sperry Chalet).
Just at the beginning, apparition of a female muledeer on the trail who was as surprised than us and stay for 2/3
mn before vanishing in the woods.
The first 2 miles are easy, except the
first 1/2 mile, steep.
At 2 miles, direction the Fish lake, which is a detour of 2 miles roundtrip,
after crossing the creek on a nice woodbridge.The walk is easy, the Lake is "primitive", without amenaged shore,
there is some waterlilies and the whole lake is surrounded by the woods...
Only problem are...the mosquitos...(only times we had this problem during the sejour...).So, we come back "quickly" to the main trail to hike to Snyder lake.The rest of the trail is in a regular slope, with some part of dense vegetation, with a lot of berries and in particular some huckleberries(hum hum very good).The
lake itself is beautiful, with some slopes surrounding, some logs to sit and some "beaches...and so Anny...swimm...Then, we take a 1h break for lunch and began our descent.1 mile after the lake as Anny was eating some berries, a little squirrel(the one of
Disney!) comes and takes berries in her hand...We know it's forbidden to feed the wildlife, but he do so fast that she
was surprised!!This combo is a 10,8 miles roundtrip hike.
Before returning at the Chalet, Anny,
not boring of water decides to swimm in Lake Mc Donald.Even if it's more "crowded", that rest a beautiful "experience" and the panorama is so nice.
We stop then at Agpar to buy some
souvenirs and then shower.
Tonight we dine at the Highlands restaurant just aside/chalet.It's a
repair for locals and some turists.
You can eat pizza, burger, pasta but also some regional dishes.
We had 2 salads/2 troute/2 berries pie(like the one of Grandma in Disney...)
1 glass of wine for Anny, a beer for me and the bill comes at 42 $....and the
trout is delicious!!
After a good night(thanks to earplugs for both),
Saturday, July the 28th.
After the breakfast & the coffee at "Expresso", direction the North Fork for the Quartz lakes Loop.
You have to reach the Bowman lake campground-so a #35 miles drive,half on unpaved road.As we were early in the morning, we were able to see some deers and elks.
The trail is in the woods, with a "gentle slope" if you do it in the clockwise direction. You can find some
berries and at the top, the view on the 3 lakes(upper, middle and inferior) is magic.The descent to the upper lake is not difficult and the view from the shore worth the walk...Sitting on a log, in front of the lake, there are
some mountains in the back dominating it...With the blue sky it's a postcard
panorama...So the break(after the usual
Anny's swimm..) has been a little longer than usual(1h20) because it was difficult to quite...
The hike between Upper and Lower lakes is longing middle lake for the first part and then in a dense wood.We saw a ptarmigan with her babies and arrive at Lower lake.We take a little break here(15 mn), knowing there was a moderate steepy slope thereafter...The end of the slope was not so easy(it was hot that day...).After that, the descent to Bowman lake is without difficulties.
The whole loop is a #11 miles roundtrip.
Due to the hot T°, someone(guess who???) swimm in that lake...and here also, even if it's more "crowded"...the scenery is tremendous...
Difficult to come back to "civilisati- on" at Belton and the railways...
Same restaurant that yesterday and same menu...(the trouts are always delicious...).
Even on a saturday night, railways run...but due to the fatigue, both sleep well...
Sunday, July the 29th.
We wake up early because this is our transition's day between West and East and we would try not to be on a too busy road...
First stop has been for Avalanche lake.
The hike is easy(4 miles roundtrip) and
we were the first to hike...
It worth the visit even if there are some people after.If you go to the top of the lake, you can approach the waterfalls.We stay here #45 mn admirating the panorama,forgetting times...Then in the middle of the shore Anny find a small site to take a swimm-and some who try after her...have difficulties to stay in the water...
Her secret...We live in Brittany and the sea's T° here is not so hot...and
she swimm from mid-April to mid-October...And the external T° is less high than this year in Montana...
To come back to the car, we decide to do the trail of the cedars(the Rich
family tell us not to forget it...and they were right...) : the hike is very easy(0.7 miles, no slope) and the trees here are terrific.
After that, we take the Going to the sun road and there was no too much traffic...Arrived at Logan Pass, it takes only 5 mn to find a place in the parking lot...
We decide to walk the garden wall and
it's very nice , even if the road is not far...
We have seen 2 moutain goat's families
some pinkas and a flora from extrem variety...We were able to find a not so bad spot to picnic(without even seing the road...) and the panorama with all the mountains, snow, piece of glacier
worth the (small) efforts to arrive here.
Then, back to drive and road to St Mary-
some views of the lake, with this year's
weather could make thinking to be on the mediteranean coast...
We arrive finally at the Swiftcurrent motor inn lodge which was our choice in Many Glacier and that was not a mistake...
Thank to an advice taked on this forum, I reserve a motel room(n°23) just at the TH of Iceberg Lake. Room is of comfortable size with 2 large queen beds, nighttable, a great table and
a nice shower.As for the others, no TV, no phone and no A/C...but...we're not here for...
We decide to dine at the Garden Restaurant just adjacent at the Inn's office.Casual italian with pizzas, pasta
but also buffalo burgers,fishes and some specials...
For tonight, tomato/mozarella and breadsticks that we share, a buffaloburger for me , a chicken caesar for Anny, an ice cream for her and a berries cobbler for me, a glass of wine and a beer-the bill was 45$...
After dinner, with other guests, we examine the environning slopes and were able to see 1 bear with 1 cub on a side and 1 bear with 2 cubs on another side.
The firts one was directly on the slope above the Inn, far but well visible with binoculars...They "hike" high to pass on the other versant and what we
would take 1h30/2h to walk, in 20 mn it was done...terrific the quickness of the 2...
The second group we saw it walking on the road with the prokject to go to Many Glacier Hotel...There were less far, visible even without binoculars...
Suddenly,a wrangler arrives and tell us not to stay on road, not for the one we were looking but there was another in the wood in the...valley...So we stay sometimes with him on the parking lot/Grinnel TH and then come back to the room..
End of a well busy day...And a whole night without a noise...That's great...
To be continued,
Erik.

wtm003

Looking forward to the rest of your report! Thanks for taking the time to write it. I'm laughing at your worst coffee in 15 years experience. It brought back memories for me! My husband would also be searching for an espresso store.

monpetit

The real question is : how they arrive to do that coffee...
I forgot to note that Anny arriving at the inn, decide to go to Fishhead lake, she saw on our topos to swimm: there was a deer at the top of the lake, but the swimm was so-so : this lake is more a pond than a lake...
Monday, July the 30th.
Breakfast at the garden restaurant;as we saw the size of pizzas yesterday, we
decide to "share" : a flipperjack for me(2 eggs, potatoes, ham and 3 pancakes +
a biscuit...) and a cup of strawberries for Anny...And we keep the biscuit for
the lunch...Some potatoes and half of the ham has been ignored...Bill was...9 $ with 2 coffees(not so bad those one...).
The initial project in MG was Iceberg lake and Cracker Lake...but both were closed for Bear activities...
For our first day here, we decide to hike to Grinnel Glacier from the initial TH at the campground.
The trail beginn longing Swiftcurrent lake, opposite shore/MG hotel , then
it's time to longe lake Josephine.This part of the hike is relatively flat.
At "mid lake Josephine" we walk behind a group of 9, which clap hands and
talk loudly.When I ask the reason they tell me they saw 2 bears in front of the trail, descending to the shore...
As they continue, it was difficult to
believe them and so we pass them and begin the climb.
The trail is after Lake Josephine in an
"open" slope,with a magnificient view.The slope is not too steep, regular and you cross some waterfalls, one of them quasi like a shower.
We saw 3 moutaingoats on the way on.
We pass without a stop the picnicspot and preferr to go directly to the Glacier...It's 0.8 mile more but you
have to do it...
Just above the spot, there was a snowfield with a bighorn sheep's family.
The Glacier remaining is "small" but in summer part of it is a lake, with some "icecubs" flotting.
And we decide to stay here for the lunch, and finally some other do the same...And, no, Anny didn't swimm in that lake....
The pause has been also here a little longer than usual due to the majesty
of the site.
The descent is not difficult and the view/waterfall, Lower Grinnel lake and the others is terrific...
Arriving in Lake Josephine-Anny has seen some possibilities in the morning for her activity...-Surprise...Who were in the lake, swimming, where Anny want to do so...2 bears...Our first reflex was to take a little time to look to them, but the boat of the company which has the concession saw them also and
began to approach...As it is said than bears act "impredictabely" we preferr going without stopping because their only way to scape was by the upway...
where was our trail...
And so finally, in the morning the other group was not joking...
We hike this part quickly...and it was
a sacrifice because there were a lot of berries(service, blue...) but you know after seing the evening before how quick a bear can climb a slop we don't want to compet with one...
Finally arrived at the TH, Anny decide to swim in Swiftcurrent lake-not the best of the sejour( a great fishhead lake...).
To be continued...

monpetit

After all those "adventures", we decide for tonight a diner at the Ptarmigan restaurant at MGhotel.
We arrive early to buy some souvenirs/T-shirts at the shop and then, we have to wait 1/2h, because they don't take reservations.
We decide to have a drink and Any had an huckleberry margarita and I tsate another "microbrewery" beer.
Then, diner, very good-samplers of venaison's sausage that we share, 2 trouts, an huckleberry ice cream for Anny, a beeries cobler for me and each a glass of wine-85 $...
It's only arrived at the inn than we discover they forget to bill our drink(effect of a double "dose" of beverage???).
So, a good night and
Tuesday, July the 31st.
We decide to hike to Granite chalet via Swiftcurrent pass.
The beginning is easy : you longe Fishead Lake, then Red Rock Lake with at the top, the red rocks and the falls...Then, Bullhead Lake and at the top, we make our first encounter with a bull moose...Very impressive and also much nicer than expected...Those animals are undergraded by pictures or
description...We stay here 20 mn to admire-quite a "communion" : flora/fauna/panorama/silence....It was a perfect "spot"...one you have ever dreamed...
After crossing the stream on a woodbridge, began the climb...5-6 long swithbacks, but with a very gradual slope and so it's less difficult you can imagine from the bottom...(I forgett to signal that from RedRock lake, you see the pass...and it seems very...high!)
The scenery is here also to distrate the mind : waterfalls, snow, glaciers,...and another bullmoose after the 3rd switchback, eating,in
what seem a fragile equilibre, but he eats, indifferent to us or quasi...
That was also magic...
The pass is windy and after 0.8 miles more you arrive at the Chalet.
The panorama is terrific, the chalet has an oldfashion charm and we eat inside and take our habitual 1 h pause on the terrace, surrounded by the mountains, and accompagned by some squirrels and pinkas..
The descent is absolutely fantastic : you have view on 5-6 lakes(Windmaker, bullhead,fishhead,swiftcurrent, the reservoir and St mary..).Colours change hour by hour.
Just before entering the wood, new encounter with a bullmoose, who decides to "accompagne" us on the trail...So, perfect for pictures...We stay with him 1/2 hour.
Afterthat, Anny decides to swimm in Bullhead lake and just at the bottom of the lake, we saw another bullmoose in the water!!
On the way back, we visit the "falls" just approached in the morning and we were back to our room.
The hike is a 15,2 miles roundtrip.
Tonight, diner at the Garden, but there was a 40 mn wait, and so, postacrd times and binoculars(some mountaingoats...) and souvenirshop(some huckleberry product : honey, herbal tea...).
Salad/2 salmons-pasta and one icecream-glass of wine and a beer-42$.
A good night and
Wednesday, August the 1st.,
back to civilisation...
We quite with regrets Glacier, but sure to come back(eh!!!Iceberg and Cracker Lakes hikes have not be done....).
Breakfast at the Garden, small because no hike today...
Oatmeal for me, strawberries for Anny.
Then, we drive to Browning-visit at the museum of the northern indians. Very instructive and rich of beadworks, suits,..Nice preentation. The store is disappointing...
After that, we drive to Choteau, in "roadwork" for the entire mainstreet and we had lunch here in a familial diner...salad for Anny, roastbeef sandwich for Erik and salad-water.
It was time to drive to Great Falls : visit of the Russel museum-nice and explaining well his life, works, points of interest.A nice shop.
Then, the Lewis & Clark center, which is a must : very well designed, very well organised...You pass from rooms to rooms, upon their itinerary with for each step flora/fauna/people encountered,...And you learn how Great Falls was nice before they have massacred the stream for electricity...Would it not be possible to do a comaback...???
Finally, we drive to Helena.We were nicely surprised by the town...Everybody tells us not badly but "indifferently" from this town...
We were at the Best western Great Northern...Large rooms, 2 large queenbeds,microwave,refrigerator, coffeemaker, large bathroom and quite...
We eat in a pub just aside-very good bbq ribs for me, a good salmon for Anny, salads and ice cream-glass of wine and beer-45 $ !.
Then a little walk around the hotel and sleep...
To be continued.
Erik

monpetit

Tuesday,August the 2nd.
Breakfast at the BW, complimentay and nothing to complain-coffee,acceptable, all sort of cereals,hardboiled eggs, waffle, all sort of bread, cookies, fruits, yogourth,bagels,...
Then direction the hike of the day, the Hanging valley-the TH is at the vigilante campground, just after York.
The hike is not difficult, but for the only time we use it th Falcon guide is
"fantaisist"...
At the beginning, there is 2 trails-we took the right..it was a mistake... After 20 mn, we were in the middle of nowhere, the trail lost in a dense vegetation...So we took the left and it was a good notion...No indication in our topo...Then the topo gives us a 3 miles before encountering a "crosshike" : in fact it's at 2 miles...so, you began to be confused...Are we lost, are we in the good direction??And finally, they describe a flat when it comes down, a down for an up and a final gentle down, when it's a 12 switchbacks...We don't know if they really do this hike!!!(first and only time the topo was so false..).
The goal of the trail the hanging valley is a terrific spot...You arrive in a narrow canyon(you touche the both walls with hands, pass under a natural bridge, come down a 5 foot high step and finally arrive at the top of an ancient waterfall(5-6 stories...), with view about trout canyon...very impressive...
After an hour pause, we come back and finally the climb of the switchbacks has been much more easier than expected...
This is a 12 miles roundtrip
On the drive back to Helena, Anny didn't resist to a swimm in the Missouri river...There are some recreation areas there...
Back to the BW,and we dine at the steakhouse just near the hotel, the
Silver star.We had salad/a steak for me, a whitehead fish for Anny and we share a berries cheesecake-2 glasses of wine-75$(NB : all the restaurant prices are indicated without tip, which were from 12 to 18%, depending the quality of the service...and there is no tax in Montana...).
After, we walk the last gulch chance street to the justice building-there are some nice old buildings in Helena and some nice shops, but it was too late and as we have a long day in prevision, it will be for another year...
Friday, August the 3rd.
Breakfast at the BW,
and direction Elkhorn, a ghost town, near Boulder.It's easy to find, but the last 10 miles are unpaved-some Montana's treasures are of difficult access...This ghosttown is impressive...The 2 fraternities building are in excellent conserva- tion, some others also.There are no turistic shops,...And so as we were alone, it was nice...Just at the foot of one of the building, there was a "dead animal"(badger or raccoon?)
... and some movements in one of the private building here...No, no no "Delivrance's moovie" but who knows...
Then, we drive to Butte-a stop to buy a SD card for my camera(the first 4 of 512 and my 2 of 256 were full...) and
direction Philipsburg.We keep Butte for a future visit, because all the guides describe Philipsburg as a "must to see"...We are divided on this opinion : some nice "victorian" buildings, but shops without interest, no real nice jewelry for this capital of the montanian sapphire...The only nice sapphire's work we saw was at 12000$ and the stones were international, noone from Montana...
No real restaurant...So we'd impression to loose our time and finally regret not to have stopped more in Butte...ie at the M&M's, but Jessica lange was certainly no more there...
After Philipsburg, direction Garnett Ghostown and that's worth the detour, even if the last 10 miles are unpaved and with some hard switchbacks...I'm not sure a standard carmake it easy...(we access by south...).
This ghosttown is also impressive with a lot of buildings in excellent condition...You can see inside by the windows and the hotel for example is like in a western oldfashioned moovie...
It was time to take the car and direction Missoula, and our last lodging adress, the Blue Moutain B&B, on the Lolo road...
That's an excellent spot to end our vacation...Even you are not far from highway, this is a piece of heaven...Room are comfortable, the hosts at your service, but not always behind you...
This first evening, we drive to Lolo to eat at the Guy's Lolo steakhouse : not a place for " extremist animal's lovers"...-we know hunting is necessary to keep the natural equilibre-wildlife/civilisation- but for someone it could be too much.... Elks,Deer, wolves, mooses, bear all naturalised and no a squarefeet of wall
was free of animals..
The meal was very correct : a chicken ceasar for Anny, a steak for Erik and some hucklberry Ice cream, wine and beer: 42$.
Then a good sleep and
Saturday, August the 4th.
Breakfast at the B&B : what a breakfast...
An heaven's coffee-yes,yes(and the owner who cooked the BF didn't even drink coffee...perhaps that's the secret...), scrambled egg with herbs excellent,fine ham,a super cookie and sme fresh fruits-cherries from Lolo...
And you take it on a terrace with a small waterfall, surrouded by flowers, adossed at a nice hill, with birds and squirrels
Then, our last hike, in the Bitterrrot valley, the Mills creek to ,the waterfall...It's an easy hike, the TH at 35 miles from the B&B.You longe the creek and arrive at a nice waterfall with apond, where Anny...swimm!
Then, back to the TH, with some "berries's stop" and back to B&B.
We took a shower nd direction Missoula...Unfortunately, the museu was closed(3pm on saturday..) and we decide to turn around from the great northern depot tothe milwaukee depot by higgins street and the others...admiring the old buildings(the Flkorence hotel is impressive), doing some shops(and we find finaly a nice montanian sapphire , well worked by a loal artisan jeweler...) some other souvenirs and we finish by a ride on the carousel for Anny, a walk on the riverfront before eating at the 515 higgings(formerly the bridge).Appetizers were excellent(a goldtomato soup with cheesesandwich and an ewquise areian soft shellcrab with heb, my tout was delicious, the one of Anny "bizarre"-not bad but with an estrange smell- and 2 very nice desserts -huckleberries areian cakes-2 glasses of wine-a bottle of sparkling water : 100$.
Back to the B&B for ur last Montanian night...sniff...sniff...
Sunday, August the 5th.
8am breakfast and perhaps more excellent than yesterday...an excptionnal oigno/cvhees/omelett souffle, 3 strips of bacon just as you attempt-small, crispy,and a blueberry scone so excellent Anny request a "bis"...
The luggagges were eady from yesterday and direction airport after a relaxing pause on the patio.
We retrurn our car and checkin at teh United Airlines...
They change just before our departure in July the schedule.In the first schedule, we had a Missoula/Chicago at 8 am, a 4-5h connexion in Chicago and direction Paris.The 20th of July, they put us on the 12am flight with an 1h connexion in Chicago.I phone and they tell me : no problem...I was doubting and when i reconfirm the 1st of August, I ask thesame and new "no problem"...
The problem was the weather...Thunderstorms on Chicago and so an hour delay for us and all the
internal flights and not for the international...and we iss our connexion..the only flight for paris!!!
They want to put us on the dayafter flight but as we are both doctors, we have some patients on our tuesday workschedule...
So we discuss and finally we do Chicago/Francfort and F/Parisn, with an arrival at 5pm in place of 10am and
so our railway connexion was done.We arrive to change tickets(with a supplement) andarrive at Vannes(Brittany) at 11pm(normally 5pm...).
But no worry the 2 weeks were so exceptionnal that this was an epiphenomen...The only complaint is that it's terrible that customers finally know better then compagy's emloyee what is possible or not and so next time I will refuse a so short connexion...
So, in conclusion :
Montana is fantastic-this part we'v done...
Glacier is tremendous but-sorry for the non hikers, we think it's a park to discover walking, hiking,...and 6 days are not enough...
Belton Chalet can be forgotten(noisy/railways) and try the Lake Mc Donald Lodge
The swifttcurrent inn in the east part is to keep in mind(the lot with the room 23 is terrific)
You can eat very well and cheep
The microbrewery's beers are delicious
and specially the one perfumed at the berries
Huckleberries and thumbleberries and serviceberries and all the berries are not only for bears...
Coffee is varied in quality...and sometimes you ask you if it is coffee..
Blue Mountain B&B is a ideal spot in Missoula and thank's God you have only the breakfasts here or you have to change size of clothes...
And all the hikes are tremendous and not so difficult..
So, walk, walk and walk and you can profite without regrets what you eat and drink...
Erik.