United States Forums

Start a new topic Change Forum
Advanced search

Trip Report 16 Days in SD, Yellowstone, MT & Wyoming

Jump to last reply

Trip Planning/Prep and Stuff You Might Want to Skip
In February, my husband and I decided to make a return visit to Yellowstone and fly into Rapid City instead of Jackson this time so we could see some of the Black Hills area up. This trip was part of our “see America second” plan after a dozen years of spending at least half of our 5-8 annual trips overseas, mostly in Europe. We’re currently “collecting” national parks and this trip would add parks 29 and 30 plus a few monuments.

As a frame of reference, I’m 68 and DH is 70, and neither of us, we’ve noticed, are in quite the same shape as we were when we were trotting around Manchu Picchu in 2006. We’re also not morning people and have concluded we’ll enjoy our vacations more if we don’t push ourselves before 10AM. We have gotten back into photography in an amateur way and spend a lot of time taking pictures, particularly of animals. So we don’t get as much done as when we were younger. Our hikes are also shorter, more in the realm of 1-2 miles instead of the 3-4 we usually did a few years ago.

I booked flights leaving here the day after Memorial Day and returning mid-June. Also reserved a hideously expensive car; DH discovered that he had points for a free week, so using that knocked down the car rental to $460 for the 16 days. Had no problem in SD but hotels in Yellowstone were another matter. I reserved what I could in the park and in W. Yellowstone and then started checking for cancellations. Since my last nat’l park trip I’ve learned that cancellations become more frequent in the month before your stay, probably because the tour companies hold onto rooms till the last minute, hoping for more customers. As I found better rooms, I cancelled and rebooked. Had hoped to get 3 successive nights in the same lodging at Old Faithful but finally gave that up mid-May. I had a night at OF Inn, 2 at the Lodge cabins and 2 nights at Canyon cabins. (We do have a bathroom rule, especially when in cabins – we want our own. When we want to go to the bathroom, we don’t want to wail till a bison or elk – or, heaven forbid, a bear – decides it’s time to wander away from our cabin door and let us out. Or worse, I fear meeting something large in the dark, as occasionally happens at Y’stone.) We also decided to go to Virginia City between OF and Canyon, spend the night in Bozeman, and drive back to the park on 191. As I always do, I checked rental cars again in mid-May and found I could get the same car from the same company for $410 - $50 less than my first reservation – WITHOUT using the free week. Definitely my biggest saving yet from a rebooking.

For once, I was a day ahead with packing and leaving prep. Then I read about United pulling the second free bag for its MileagePlus flyers. Since airlines seem to be “monkey see, monkey do”, I said DH might check the Delta situation. Sure enough, Delta had removed the second free bag provision for Medallion customers in March. So that involved repacking our 3 checked bags into 2 larger ones. Yes, we take a lot of stuff when we head for the hinterlands. An ice chest and some utensils, trail mix, individual condiment packs, etc., if finding food at lunch will be inconvenient and we can fit it in. (If no luggage room, we buy an ice chest there and abandon it in the car. But having wet rental car seats with those cheap foam chests, we take a better one if we can rather than buying and leaving a better one.) There is also way too much photo and electronics gear – and cords and chargers, etc. And since my weather research, including on this forum, indicated we could have anything from 90 degree days to 30 degree nights and I try to avoid doing laundry other than underwear, we end up with more luggage on a national park trip than we take for 2 weeks in Europe or a city in the US.

  • Report Abuse

    Day 1: We Arrive in South Dakota
    We arrived in Rapid City a few minutes before 6PM and I baby-sat the luggage while DH went to the Hertz counter. He came back and said they had offered him a 4-Runner and did I want to take it. A dilemma. How much gas does that thing use? In the olden days, the free upgrades for premium customers were a nice perk, now they’re just trying to get rid of Mustangs that get 10 miles to the gallon that no one else wants. But we had an Outback at Glacier that we really liked and when Vegas couldn’t seem to come up with the compact car we reserved last Sept. on a Colorado Plateau trip and we turned down a full-sized car, we ended up with a Yaris, which was awful, especially on hills. (Four wheel drive – or even higher clearance – would have been useful there; there were places we couldn’t go in the Yaris because of ruts or the recent rain.) Furthermore, I had read a couple of months ago that Wyoming had some of the cheapest gas in the country. (Don’t believe everything you read, but more about that later.) So we took the 4-Runner and headed off to check into our hotel and do our grocery shopping. Since DH got a spotting scope last fall, I thought we might be in for several hours of wolf-watching at Lamar Valley and we should maybe pick up a $6 folding chair at Walgreens (which turned out to be $7 in SD). By the time we finished that, it was after 9PM and we needed to get dinner before the sidewalks rolled up.

    I had a list of restaurants for some of the cities obtained from Fodors, TripAdvisor, etc. and one was Minerva’s. Couldn’t find it at first. Turned out it was at a Best Western. Another of our rules is to avoid hotel restaurants, so we almost left. But it was getting late, so we gave it a try and are delighted we did. Turned out to be the best meal (in fact, the only one we’d call good) of the trip. Also excellent service. Better experience than the Fairfield Inn in Rapid City. We’re trying to get enough Marriott stays this year to get lifetime Platinum for DH, so we chose the Fairfield despite mixed reviews on TripAdvisor. Got there too late for an upgrade and ended up in one of the smallest Fairfield rooms I’ve ever seen (except for Florence, SC, our all-time Marriott low), so DH returned to the desk to discuss the issue. Only 2 qns., they said, no other kings. Then they came up with a handicapped king on the first floor, which is normally just a roll-in shower, wet floor problem; but in this case it was on the corridor to an indoor water park shared with the hotel next door and we were concerned about noise, especially since negative reviews had mentioned that. Very quiet kids, I guess, since we weren’t bothered either night. Worse breakfast than usual, not even those Jimmy Dean egg & whatever biscuits. Can’t recommend the hotel, especially rm. 422, but it was clean and adequate. (More complete hotel and restaurant reviews on TripAdvisor.) Did consider nabbing the bench in the shower to get into the SUV, though. Although I am of average size for a woman and have owned/driven full-sized vans and such in the past, this was my first tall vehicle without a running board; an inch higher and I’d have had to take a running start and vault onto the seat.

  • Report Abuse

    Day 2: Badlands National Park
    Woke at 8 and spend our usual 2 hours staring at the wall for a few minutes, getting ready to go, eating, reading the paper, etc. Then we started off for the first big surprise of the trip. I really thought this trip was an excuse to get us back to Yellowstone and South Dakota would be anti-climatic (well, pre-climatic since we were doing SD first). Badlands sounded like one day would be more than enough, so we decided (after a brief stop at the Black Hills VC up the road from our motel) to go via Wall Drugs and take a look, maybe eat a donut. Actually never found the donuts (at least not the fresh ones – they weren’t making them that day) although we could smell them. Did find some forest creature socks for my daughter who likes off-beat socks but otherwise are not big fans of Wall Drugs. The good thing was that it put us in at the north end of the park (Pinnacles Entrance) rather than the south end. Since we were mostly interested in the animals, that was the best part for us.

    Oddly, despite numerous trips to the west, we had never seen prairie dogs in the wild. Or maybe we had seen them and not realized it. So we drove out Sage Creek Rim Road to look for the Roberts Prairie Dog Town. But the first animals we encountered (other than distant bison) were big horned sheep – not any with big horns, only females and young males, but we’d only ever seen sheep before from a long distance (except one ram at Glacier just about at dark). So we took photos of the 3 sheep, then drove on to the prairie dog town. Also photographed the landscape despite the very overcast day with sprinkings of rain. We backtracked and about the time we got to the intersection, the sun came out, so we decided to make a pit stop at the Pinnacles Overlook, then drive back again on Sage Creek Rim Rd. for better photos. Just around the corner we saw a herd of sheep pretty close to the road, so we parked, visited the “pit pots”, and walked 100 ft. or so back to where the sheep were. Or had been. How quickly they can just dematerialize over the crest of a hill! We drove back to the prairie dog town, then returned along the same road (2 round trips, which explains why we never get much done) – half our Badlands time gone and we hadn’t even started the “real” part of the park. We spent a couple of hours stopping at all the overlooks, and photographing the views. Went to the VC and discussed our return trip to Rapid City with a ranger. In disagreement with the guy at the Black Hills VC, she suggested we take 44 back instead of the Interstate but drive up little-traveled Conata Rd., where raptors are often spotted, to Sage Creek Rim, then all the way out that road to 44. Guy had said, “Grasslands are pretty boring and Scenic is just the name of the town, you know.” Ranger said, “Scenic is named Scenic for a reason, you know, and the grasslands are lovely.” We took the ranger’s advice but that meant we had to pass up the short Door and Window trails we’d planned to walk. Saw a few miles of the grasslands but not the golden eagle the ranger mentioned; we did see a hawk and other birds and another angle on the park landscape. We also had a 10 min. holdup for some very stupid cattle that couldn’t decide which side of the road they wanted to be on. Soon after rejoining the loop road, we encountered sheep again along the road and took photos of the close ones and watched them pick their ways across the rocks and cliffs to a plateau where a dozen or so had already assembled for the night. In another mile or two we stopped for a nice photo in the late afternoon light and found a flock of turkeys. Since the daylight was fading, we decided we’d seen all the grasslands we really needed and we’d skip the Sage Creek rd. (which would be our 5th trip on the 1st half). It would be dark by the time we got to Scenic and nothing would be all that scenic after dark. Also, we’d never found a picnic table, never gotten around to lunch, and I-90 would get us back to Rapid City in time to supplement our few handfuls of trail mix with actual food. It was so late we stopped at a Famous Dave’s we’d seen from the highway, figuring they’d close later than other restaurants. Not such a great choice.

    A number of people have said a day in Badlands is plenty, and it would have been for us if not for the animals. And if we hadn’t done the “by the way, drive down Sage Creek if you have time” first thing, we might have missed our favorite part altogether. I thought Badlands would be pretty boring. Would I go again? In a heartbeat.

  • Report Abuse

    Day 3: Custer State Park (Wow!) & Mt. Rushmore
    If not for this forum, I’d never have added Custer State Park to my list. Nothing else I’d read led me to think it was a must do. But it was probably our favorite thing in SD. We had decided to move to Hill City (Holiday Inn Express) for the next couple of nights to be closer to Wind Cave, Mt. Rushmore, etc., though I’m not sure the move was necessary. Hoping to prevent getting the smallest room in the hotel, we checked in on the way to Custer. They said rooms were already assigned, so we just had to keep our fingers crossed since the room wasn’t clean yet. (It turned out to be fine.)

    After not having lunch the previous day, we decided to stop at the Sylvan Lake Lodge on the way into Custer and eat early. Good tomato soup, walleye not nearly up to what I had at Miranda’s. Walked around at the lake for a bit, then spent the rest of the day driving around, mainly looking for animals – drove Needles Hwy. (where we encountered a swarm of habituated chipmunks) and Wildlife Dr., then back north on 16A (Iron Mt. Rd.). Plenty of bison, occasionally crossing and blocking the roads for a few minutes. We also decided to drive the unpaved 4 Mile Draw Rd. (which luckily was not 4 miles long since we had to turn around and go back) to get to the prairie dog town. Now you’d think we’d have figured out how to recognize a prairie dog town after the day before, but we dumbly drove the road to the other side, found the prairie dogs on the far side of 87, and then realized we’d been driving through dog town most of the way. We did see a couple of pronghorns on a wooded hill (from a closer look at our photos, I think they went there to give birth) and a curious and brave marmot that let us drive so near his safe culvert that we were able to get excellent close-up pictures. One reason I chose late May, early June for this trip was to see young animals – and maybe the animals that prey on them. There were certainly plenty of bison calves but I don’t know when they are born – none of them looked too new. But the only pronghorn babies we saw were two in Custer, one probably only a few hours old. Had hoped to see more (and elk calves as well) but think that while the bison seem to form large herds of cows and calves, the others probably hide their young for awhile before gathering with other moms and since the pronghorns and elk were still being born, they weren’t easy to find. Had bought a bag of carrots for the donkeys in Rapid City but should have gotten the 2 lb. bag – or two 2 lb. bags. Or three. Those were persistent donkeys.

    We made a brief stop at the main VC before taking 16A, with its tunnel views of the presidents, to Mt. Rushmore for the evening lighting program. Got a quick bowl of mediocre chili and a hot dog at the typical park service concession and watched the program from the area behind the amphitheater rather than trying to find seats. Fine to stand for a while since we’d been riding a lot. Then back to the hotel. Some ominous skies part of the time but no rain, a nice day.

  • Report Abuse

    Day 4: Wind Cave & Custer & Rushmore Again
    Wind Cave was scheduled for the next day, stopping by Mt. Rushmore again before dark. Although we don’t anticipate making it to all 38 national parks (and don’t even want to go to all of them), we did decide to do as many of the caves as we can manage. (We met while caving in the ‘60s, and while we’re not up for the squeezing, rappelling and, worse, prusiking out, anymore, we enjoyed Mammoth a couple of years ago for old time’s sake and did Carlsbad many years ago.) So we added Wind Cave and Jewel Cave to this itinerary. While we saw many prettier formations in wild caves 40 years ago, the boxwork in Wind Cave was very interesting. And I’ve got to admit that as a terrible and slow prusiker, I have a great fondness for caves with elevators. (DH is more impressed with caves that have flush toilets – Mammoth and Carlsbad.) Since they were only offering Garden of Eden and Natural Entrance tours in early June, we did the Natural Entrance tour instead of the shorter Garden of Eden. Not finding picnic tables, we sat on a wall at a pullout and made deviled ham sandwiches against all odds in very brisk winds – the wind there isn’t only in the cave. We decided to drive back through Custer on the Wildlife Loop, then take 16A to Rushmore again, this time in the daylight.

    Didn’t see any new animals on the drive back through Custer but enjoyed seeing the bison on the edges of the road, the donkeys, and some male pronghorns. And prairie dogs now that we knew to look for them. We also ventured onto another unpaved road for new views of the park. Drove back to Rushmore through tunnels 1, 2, and 3 and walked the loop at the monument base, spent some time in the museum. FYI, if you want the less strenuous direction, go to the left. We went right to get to the studio before it closed but the other direction would have involved fewer steps going up. (If anyone rents a silver 4Runner from Hertz with Idaho plates before May 30, 2013, check to see if there’s a parking pass to Rushmore in the glove box, since it’s good for a year.) We had dinner in Hill City at Desperados and were a little disappointed since it had received some good reviews on TripAdvisor. Maybe the problem is that we aren’t big beef eaters and we’d have been better off having steak in that part of the country. But while we were talking to the waitress, she told us about the volksmarch at Crazy Horse the following day. Thousands of people were expected and she planned to be there when the gates opened at 7AM since it’s the only time visitors are allowed to go to the top of the monument.

  • Report Abuse

    Day 5: Hill City Shopping, Jewel Cave, and to Wyoming
    We were going to Crazy Horse Saturday morning before Jewel Cave and then drive to Casper the cave. We took the trip at what we thought was the end of the shoulder season because we prefer to avoid crowds and we hadn’t planned on a long wait to get into Crazy Horse; nor did we have time for the long trek to the top of the monument. Since we had decided by then that we might like to revisit the Black Hills again sometime, we figured we could see Crazy Horse then. So we spent some time in Hill City shops and galleries instead, where DH found a gallery that also sold reproduction clothing like frock coats, vests and shirts and some fabulous steam-punky leather hats. A few dollars poorer (quite a few, actually, but DH deserves it), we went to Jewel Cave. We had to wait a little longer than we might have liked for a tour since we didn’t book ahead, but that gave us time to put together a sandwich, eat, then look through the exhibits before the tour. Jewel is mostly a “dead” (dry) cave but the tour goes through some of the few wet areas with nice calcite crystals, flowstone, soda straws (one that had formed a column, something we had never seen) and other speleothems. Prettier than Wind Cave, so if someone could only go to one, we’d probably suggest Jewel. Another nice elevator in and out, though plenty of stairs up and down on the tour. Jewel was a “breathing” cave that “inhales” when the barometric pressure is falling; one of the rangers checked the air direction at the door, said a storm was coming and Jewel never lies.

    So far the weather had been cooler than weather.com predicted but also dryer. On Saturday it started warming up, but it appeared that wasn’t going to be the case when we got to Yellowstone. To our dismay, gas prices in SD were $3.69 everywhere and DH’s investigation revealed that gas was mostly worse in Wyoming. Whoever wrote that WY has cheap gas was totally wrong. Florida doesn’t have the cheapest gas in the country by any means, but we had seen some for $3.37 on the way to the airport. The Gas Buddy app said gas was closer to $3.55 in Casper, so before we left SD, we just got what we needed to get to Casper.

    We could see the rain Jewel had promised in the distance as we headed to Casper and we managed to get into it later on, adding another half hour to the drive. Probably the least scenic drive of the trip but we did run across some cowboys (and girls) rounding up some cattle using horses and – who knew? – ATVs. Checked into the Courtyard in Casper about 8 and they recommended nearby Sanford’s Grub Pub, a peculiar kitsch-jammed place with lots of fake cars, a giant Bugs Bunny and Daffy Duck outside, more automotive/neon theme inside (repro gas pumps, cars, neon beer and comestibles signs, a couple dozen Betty Boops in various sizes, ad infinitum). Supposedly Cajun but that requires a pretty loose interpretation of “Cajun”. It took time to ponder the huge, 8-page menu with cutesy names for all the dishes that required careful reading. Servings were huge and the food, surprisingly, wasn’t bad.

  • Report Abuse

    looking forward to the rest of your trip.

    I've done both wild cave tours in Carlsbad and the one they offere in Mammoth. Loved all of them and hope to get to do the one at Jewel at Wind sometime too.

  • Report Abuse

    Day 6: Casper to Riverton
    Slept late the next morning, watched some news and read some newspapers after finishing off leftovers from dinner. Then we went to Safeway, which we thought would be our last supermarket until we left Yellowstone. (We were wrong, there were supermarkets in Riverton.) We also went by a Sportsman’s Wearhouse for bear spray and got a can, with holster, for $32. (Found the same size, sans holster, in the park for about $60.) Picked up some wool socks on sale for DH and I found what looked like a pretty good rainproof nylon jacket I needed on sale for about a third of the prices I’d seen (and refused to buy) at home. Got gas, hoping we could make it to Bozeman before having to buy more since it was $3.99 in W. Yellowstone and $4.09 in the park.

    We are trying to avoid long drives (hope the 700 mi. a day drives we used to make are history), so we decided not to go all the way to Yellowstone but to stop in Riverton and maybe see something along the way. We took the more scenic Rt. 220/287 but as we got closer, we saw that our dawdling all morning had precluded spending enough time at Sinks Canyon to make a detour worthwhile, so we took 135 to Riverton and bypassed Lander/the state park. When we checked in, the woman at the Hampton Inn registration desk said all the restaurants with table service were closed since it was Sunday and the only place she knew that wasn’t fast food was El Sol de Mexico, which was not great but okay. After dinner I saw an ad in the hotel in-room info book for the Mexican place on my list that said it was closed on Tues., not Sun., so maybe we could have gotten a better meal. We did get an upgrade to a suite, though; although DH has higher Marriott status, we seem to get more and better upgrades at Hiltons. This was a fairly new hotel and pretty nice.

  • Report Abuse

    Day 7: We Arrive in Yellowstone
    Monday morning we left for Yellowstone. Topped off the gas tank just in case since prices were going up the closer we got to the park. Interestingly enough, every station in every town had the same prices except for the occasional Maverick, 2 cents lower. Surely price-fixing. Rt. 26/287 has scenic dots on my AAA map but until we got pretty close to the Tetons, it wasn’t too scenic – though better than Jewel to Casper. We entered Grand Teton NP at Moran and threw some cold cuts from Safeway onto some bread at tables just inside the entry station. Not a charming location, but we’ve had more trouble finding picnic tables on this trip than usual.

    The overcast skies as we drove through GTNP and stopped at Lewis Falls foreshadowed much of the weather on the rest of this trip. (Both of our previous trips to Yellowstone, 8 days in 2003 and 7 days in 2008, were in early Sept.; it was a little clearer and warmer those two trips.) We also stopped at West Thumb, our first time to walk around there since 2003, and it was rainy and foggy, too. Then the sun suddenly emerged. Strangely, West Thumb was eerie and more interesting in the rain than it was in sunlight. (Comparing photos from ’03 and ’12 confirm this.)

    Our first park night was spent in a single queen room at the Old Faithful Inn, just to see what the Inn was like. The woman at registration asked if we wanted a first floor or a third floor room; since I’d heard that the elevators were slow and a pain in the neck for moving luggage and we were in the opposite wing from Old Faithful and the curious tourist traffic , I said 1st floor. She said it was only a few steps down to get to the corridor with our room, but it’s actually a few steps down to the 2000 rooms; then there is a full flight of stairs to rooms 1045 through 1074 – and no elevator, slow or otherwise. So don’t fall for that one if you don’t want to schlep luggage up and down. (They apparently do have a bellman somewhere around.) We looked for alternative routes for when we checked out but the only set of steps outside from our floor led to an area behind the hotel with a bison grazing on the sparse grass, so that wasn’t an option. One of my complaints about Xanterra employees is that they often don’t seem to know a lot about the hotels and other things you would think they should know.

    I am fully aware that most park hotels have a limited season to make their nut, which influences the quality of the rooms vs. what you have to pay (in addition to the fact that they can charge plenty because of the location). I remind myself of this when I am reserving a fairly expensive room that I know is going to be a bit of a dive and cheerfully (well, only a little cheerfully) agree to the deal. But once I get there, I admit I whine some.

    The room was small – no surprise there – but it was a bit bigger than I knew the cabins the next two nights would be. (But at least you can park your car outside the cabin doors.) That it had a hair dryer was a surprise, as was the upscale Keurig coffee maker – but it had an odd selection, 2 decafs, an extra strong, and 3 tea varieties. Small bath and shower, one straight-backed chair. Bedspread looked fairly new, carpets not too worn. We had dinner reservations for 7:15, so we headed that way to enjoy the lobby. Unfortunately, the Inn is undergoing renovations, so the lobby is full of scaffolding and draped with Visqueen and the massive fireplace is hidden from view.

    We walked out to see if Old Faithful would erupt before dinner but it was tardy, so we returned to the lobby about 7:10 and discovered that since our last visit, you wait in line 10 to 20 min. even if you have reservations. I think Xanterra food has gone downhill since our ’03 visit. In ’08 we were at both Yellowstone and Grand Canyon (Aramark) and found the food at Grand Canyon had improved while Yellowstone had declined. We also had a much better meal at Bryce in Sept. ’11 (Forever Resorts). My bison pot roast was okay but dry and the veggies weren’t great. DH’s pork osso bucco was a little better. The roasted red pepper and smoked gouda soup was not bad but it was tomato soup, not red pepper. After dinner we tried for the next eruption of Old Faithful and it was right on time – pretty and pink in the setting sun.

    On the way to dinner there was a power glitch that shut the fire doors and in the middle of the night another cut off DH’s CPAP machine. Despite being cool outside, our room was pretty warm, but it cooled off enough by bedtime that we could close the bottom portion of the window. I envisioned a bear climbing in since we had some food in the room. (We did have a wildlife guest, we discovered the next day. I heard a scrabbling noise when we woke up in the morning but it got quiet when I spoke to DH. He said he’d heard something when he woke up unable to breathe because of the power outage. We joked maybe a mouse since the noise was too soft to be a bear. No joke, as it turned out. But at least it wasn't a bear. :) )

  • Report Abuse

    Spirobulldog, our trip to Carlsbad was in 1965, so it's on our list to return there. Can't recall if it was a live cave - or the tour was more in live parts - and we'd like to see it again. No longer up for the wild cave trips, we suspect, and would hate to be the stragglers on one, so we are confining ourselves to the longer "civilian" tours. But there were a couple of places in Wind and Jewel where we could have used hard hats. With hard hats, we didn't have to worry about ducking so much in our wild cave days. (Of course, with carbide mining lamps, we couldn't see that we needed to duck a lot of the time.) Think there is at least one more national monument cave, one in Oregon. Have you seen that one? We've also done the lava tube tour at Volcanoes NP, which has a few small stalactites, but I'm not sure I really count that as a cave.

  • Report Abuse

    Day 8 – Yellowstone Lake, Mud Volcano, and Hayden Valley
    In the morning we checked out and stopped by the new VC which was completed since our last visit. Very nice. Saw the film and queried rangers about any kills in the park or other animal activity. They said things were pretty quiet. Got eruption times for the predictable 5, even though we planned to do the upper basin and geyser hill the next day. Then we drove back to the Lake Yellowstone area and stopped by Gull Point for lunch. When I started taking things out of the food bag, I discovered all this brown powder that resembled dirt and finally figured out it was hot chocolate powder. Had to take everything out to find the envelope that had 3 raggedy holes on the edges and a squashed brown spot that resembled the shape of mouse poop. Yuck. The calling card of our night visitor? We decided to keep food in the car henceforth. We drove over Fishing Bridge to Pelican Creek to photograph white pelicans, grebes and other birds; when I got back to the SUV, I found it covered with millions of tiny flying insects everywhere except on the passenger side, so I entered that way and crawled over the console to the driver’s seat. A few got in the car but most blew away by the time we got to Mud Volcano. That was the first thermal feature we saw on our first trip. After wandering around there a bit, not doing the whole climb up the hill this time, we headed on to Hayden Valley. Ran into our first real bear jam, ranger controlled, and saw 3 grizzlies in the woods – headed rapidly the other way, so we have bear butt photos. First bears of any kind we’d ever seen at Yellowstone and the first jam with rangers directing traffic. We would see more, but black bears, not grizzlies.

    We had hoped for interesting animals in Hayden so DH could use his new spotting scope but there were only bison, way more than we’ve seen in Hayden on previous trips. Mostly cows and calves. We noticed that the animals are more photogenic in September. In early June they were all shedding those huge, unsightly mats of winter fur (even the coyotes we saw later had mats) instead of being dressed in their neat new winter coats. As we took photos of the babies, it began to rain, so we got back into the car to see if we could wait it out. As we sat there, we saw calves romping and a number of yearlings scuffling and practice-fighting, which was interesting entertainment. About the time the shower stopped, we realized some bison were starting to cross the road a few yards south of us. Since we had encountered several delays, a couple as long as 10 minutes, from bison herds at Custer, we decided to leave before the bison in front of us joined the procession. When we got to the next pullout, we could look back and see that the road blockade was well underway and probably not about to end soon.

    Since we had yet to check in at OF Lodge, we headed back via the road from Canyon to Norris; we didn’t see many animals except a bison bull here and there. Finally we saw a resting bull elk in velvet with a many-pronged rack. (A replacement for the infamous Number 6?) Despite minimum traffic, it took awhile to get to OF – we always forget how long going anywhere in Yellowstone takes. We didn’t get to the Lodge registration until 8PM. Since it was raining again, I waited in the car. Then it started snowing and sleeting. I waited and waited. Finally when the precipitation abated for a minute, I went inside to see if DH had been abducted by aliens.

    The downside of reserving rooms piecemeal is that while you might have two nights in the same hotel, they’re on separate reservations; in Yellowstone that means that you might have to change rooms, thus defeating the purpose of a multiple night stay. In previous years, I had called reservations after booking rooms separately online and gotten them tied. This time when I first tried that, the guy told me it was impossible. A few days later when we decided to make another OF Inn dinner reservation, I called for that and asked to have the reservations tied. The woman on the phone said it was done, so I thought all was okay. Turns out it wasn’t okay, we were booked in two different cabins and the woman at registration couldn’t figure out how to rearrange things so we’d be in the same cabin both nights; she had to call her manager to handle this through their 1990’s computer system. (After complaining to him that the Xanterra website was kludgy and difficult, especially when I forget and use Safari instead of Firefox, he said that they were still using an antique DOS system for the site; although they keep saying they’re going to do something about it, they never do, he said. Some people advise calling instead of trying to reserve online, but I’ve spent 10 min. or more on hold numerous times, so I usually use the website.)

    We were worried about all dining options closing but he said the restaurant at the Snow Lodge was open till 10:30. That’s good when it’s light late – think it was open an hour later than when we were there in Sept. ’08. I wanted to locate the cabin before dark, so we did that and then, since it was snowing again, headed to the Snow Lodge (without unpacking) for an acceptable but unremarkable dinner. When we were moving into the (small) cabin, somewhat bereft of furniture as all Yellowstone accommodations we’ve stayed in, I realized that our Walgreens chair would give us a second place to sit besides on the bed. (Although we folded the chair daily and took it with us, the only place we ever used it was in Yellowstone hotel rooms; but it was worth the money just for a second chair in the rooms.) Don’t think we’ve ever had more than one chair or one nightstand. The cabin room was a little smaller than the single queen room at the OF Inn but not a lot. Not fond of the smaller bed in the cabins but spreads looked new, carpet was in good shape and clean-looking, and the toilets were new. All the mattresses seemed comfortable and reasonably new in all the Yellowstone rooms. DH had a bad cold and was in bad humor in ’03; healthier this time, he decided the room wasn’t quite as bad or as small as he remembered. Our only complaint was that the bottom sheet didn’t cover the bed, left about 10” of mattress pad exposed and left me hoping the previous occupants had had clean feet since I doubt they change the mattress pad after each guest. This isn’t the first time we’ve found this at Yellowstone – and we discovered why the next day.

  • Report Abuse

    Day 9 – “Thermal Day”. OF & Lower Basin
    Since we’re not big breakfast eaters and I need my coffee to get moving even as slowly as I do, we brought a small electric water pot and instant coffee/hot chocolate/tea. Don’t really think heating water falls under the “no cooking in the room” regulation. We also have cereal and milk and yogurt in the cooler. But after the mouse episode, we decided to leave the food in the car overnight. (Think it’s Yosemite where the bears rip open cars to get food.) DH went out to the car for the food and told me to look out the window. Quite a surprising accumulation of snow overnight considering that it’s June; isn’t June summer? Later DH ran into a housekeeper and mentioned the “short-sheeted” beds. She told him the sheets are small, so if they cover the mattress bottom, they come untucked at the top. But she also said only about 2” of mattress pad should be uncovered and she’d make sure ours was done properly. (When we went to bed that night, most of the exposed 10” was covered by sheet. If you ask me, the stupidest thing hotels do is to tuck in the top sheets and blankets so when you go to bed, you pull out the bottom sheet too and have to remake the bed. But that’s another thread I’m mulling – things I wish hotels would stop or start doing.)

    We had planned to spend the day leisurely meandering around geyser hill and the upper basin, Biscuit and Black Sands and maybe farther, depending on the geyser schedule. When we were there the first time, we managed to see all of the somewhat predictable big upper basin geysers between 10AM and 5PM on one day and Great Fountain the next morning. Not so lucky the second trip when we took DD – only saw Riverside and Daisy that time. The timing was a little better than ’08 this time but there was no way to see them all in two days. (Nor did we have two days for that.) So we decided to try for Grand at 3 and Castle at 4 and head off for Biscuit in the morning. Last time we walked to Biscuit after a stop at Morning Glory Pool but since it was cold as blazes, there was still some snow on the ground, and the sun had yet to reveal itself, I decided I’d rather drive so as to be near the car to warm up/dry off. We hoped the afternoon would be nicer. After Biscuit, I thought we’d walk back to Morning Glory Pool but turned around when I ran into the first bear warning sign. Bear spray or not, I wasn’t eager to meet a bear unless I was in a vehicle. Did not worry so much about bears on previous trips but that was before the four fatal attacks in the Yellowstone area in ‘10 & ’11, along with some other close encounters. The extremely muddy path contributed to my decision to return to OF and have lunch.

    Tried the buffet at the Inn, which wasn’t bad except for a lot of running out of food and no green beans or pork barbecue at all at 1:00. After I scraped out the pot to get 2/3s of a cup of chili, that was never replaced either. (Buffet supposedly till 2:30.) By the time we finished lunch the weather was warmer and sunny, so we walked from the Inn over to Geyser Hill hoping to catch the ~3PM Grand eruption. As we walked by Castle on the way to Grand at 2PM, a ranger was changing the sign to read 2-4PM. We continued on by and just before we got to Grand, Castle began to spout. A bunch of people ran back (and probably had plenty of time to get there since Castle usually goes on for awhile) but we just walked a little way and shot some photos with our zoom lenses. When Castle was done, we headed to Grand with its benches full of waiting people; Grand had started what we seemed to remember as its pre-eruption behavior. Sure enough, it went off in under 5 minutes and gave the usual impressive show. Then we walked around Geyser Hill, stopping for awhile to see if we could see the Lion Group erupt – never have and didn’t this time, either. And I always have to wait for my cute baby Anemone to fill and “flush”. We were closer to the cabin than the car, so we went back to the room, washed out some underwear, and then went back to the far end of the Inn parking lot for the car. I heard some cranes talking on the way but didn’t see them; however, we did see a crane in a field later that day, so it wasn’t my imagination.

    DH said he remembered a road where you drove by a number of geysers and after a little thought, I asked if he meant Firehole Drive. He didn’t know. (I fear that DH barely even knows where he is some of the time, let alone where he has been, and certainly has no idea where he is going tomorrow. He traveled extensively on business for over 30 years and while he occasionally provides an opinion about a possible destination, he tells me to decide and plan it all – says he has fun anywhere we’ve been. I am grateful that after all his years on planes [but not trains] and automobiles, he’s still willing to take off on a trip at the drop of a hat. But it falls to me to remember 98% of everything.) I was pretty sure it was Firehole, though, so I drove there and after a couple of stops, he said, yes, this was the place. As we went by Great Fountain, I saw what I thought was a volunteer watcher and asked her if she knew when the next eruption would be. She said most likely 6:45-7:15; there was no prediction in the VC that morning since no one had seen the previous eruption and they depend on the volunteer spotters to come up with the estimated times. The top pool was overflowing so we figured it would probably be in the next hour or so. (Of course, we waited with DD for over 2 hrs. in ’08 with the pool overflowing and finally left without an eruption. White Dome did go off in the distance half a dozen times during the wait, though.)

    Rather than wait another 45 min. or so, since it was getting chilly again, we finished up Firehole Lake Dr. Stopped by some features called Hot Lake and Black Warrior Lake that we don’t recall seeing before, then went back to the main road and took a drive on Fountain Flat Dr., which was a waste of time. We went on to Madison, turned around, and I asked DH if he would like to stop by Great Fountain again. He said probably not since we had 7:45 dinner reservations at OF Inn. I thought about all the times I had listened to him and was sorry (“Let’s just stay in Luxor today and not go back to the Valley of the Kings” and other opinions), so I turned back onto Firehole Lake Dr. By then all the parking places were full, so we drove past a little and pulled over on the roadside where we could see the geyser. The top pool was really running by then and shortly afterwards I began to hear a louder grumbling and rumbling, so we walked back to the benches. Within a couple of minutes of sitting down, it erupted. We watched for about 10 min. and the initial highest spurts (it often continues for a couple of hours) and then headed back to OF. Got there in plenty of time to stand in line for our reservation.

    The hostess spent some time trying to find us a “good” table, with a window view; this was humorous because the view was a construction office trailer, piles of plywood, 18” dia. pvc pipes, ladders, and a chain link fence. Not so hungry after a larger-than-usual lunch so we got a deluxe wedge, a chicken and cashew with Bibb lettuce wrap, and the wild mushroom stroganoff and split them. Salad good, entrée pretty good, the “wraps” weird and had no cashews. Think they run out of stuff and hope no one will notice or will think a splash of sesame seeds are cashews. Poor service this night - food dropped off and we never saw the waitress again, no tea refills. We finally attracted her attention at nearby table and asked for the check.. We saw a coyote running over to Glacier Hill as we were driving out of the parking lot so decided to drive a bit and look for animals at dusk but only saw an elk cow in the woods.

    Noticed in Mrs. Pickle’s review something about missing a parking lot at OF and not wanting to circle back. I spent some time trying to 1) figure out the one-way stuff and get a visual image from the sketchy map provided and 2) outwit the one-way system – getting to the place right beside you without going out to the access road again – by driving through parking lots (sometimes without outlets). Had very little success.

  • Report Abuse

    >>Noticed in Mrs. Pickle’s review something about missing a parking lot at OF and not wanting to circle back. I spent some time trying to 1) figure out the one-way stuff and get a visual image from the sketchy map provided and 2) outwit the one-way system – getting to the place right beside you without going out to the access road again – by driving through parking lots (sometimes without outlets). Had very little success.<<

    Oh, good, it wasn't just us, then. :-)

    Lee Ann

  • Report Abuse

    Looking forward to the rest of your report! I have a friend working at Wind Cave. We used to work together as tour guides at Lewis & Clark Caverns (between Virginia City and Bozeman).

  • Report Abuse

    Kureiff-
    Coincidentally, the next segment is about Yellowstone to Virginia City to Bozeman. No time for cavern stops, though. We certainly hope to get back to the area sometime, so how would you compare Lewis & Clark with other caves you might have seen?

    Day 10 – To Virginia City via the Madison road with Elk Calves
    Slept later than we intended (didn’t get away till after 10 as usual) and headed to Madison to exit the park and go to Virginia City. Made a short stop at Black Sand Basin since we weren’t coming back to the OF area. No animals until we got part of the way down the road between Madison and West Yellowstone, where we saw cars pulled off the road. Just across the Madison River were two elk cows and their calves. One calf was obviously a little older and neither had been born in June, so they must have been earlier than usual if our information about early June births was correct. The older calf didn’t seem too sure which was his mother, but one of the cows was quite sure he wasn’t hers and kept chasing him off, kicking at him with a front hoof. The calves played together and the older calf was doing a lot of running, jumping, and splashing in the river. This was a good video opportunity as well as still photos. Once again, we stayed longer than we intended due to the unexpected entertainment.

    We made several stops on Rt. 287 to photograph the views along the way, and after driving through a cute little town called Ennis, we arrived in Virginia City (pop. 150) about 2PM. Had lunch at the Virginia City Café, an adequate Philly cheese steak and a locally made “bratwurst” on a stale bun. We walked around the main street of the 19th C. gold mining town, looking into the restored old buildings and shops with their collections of artifacts. Information about the restoration and the management now by the state of MT, which I read online before leaving home, is very interesting.

    I would have liked to support the local merchants by buying some things, especially the nice lady at Vigilante Gift Shop, but most of what we saw was tourist dreck and nothing we wanted. There was a sign for tour times on a vintage fire truck we’d seen pass by while we were having lunch, but when we tried to take the 3:30 tour, there was no truck to be seen. The lady at the aforementioned gift shop came outside, looked around and then down the hill to the guy’s house, and finally said, “I’ll bet he’s knocked off early and gone fishing.” Might have ridden the 1 ½ mi. to Nevada City on the 1910 Baldwin locomotive, but it is not operating this year, apparently, and the little toy-looking train that didn’t look much like a train was not appealing. So we continued our explorations in the car on a residential street, using the map of historic buildings, and then drove to Nevada City. I think that on weekends in Virginia City there are costumed people doing demonstrations and the fire truck driver probably doesn’t go fishing.

    When we got to Nevada City, a ghost town, we were getting a little burned out on old buildings, so we walked around outside the fence in front of the restored area where you could see the exteriors of most of the buildings. DH didn’t seem too interested in Nevada City but probably would have been more enthusiastic if there had been blacksmiths and printers and bakers at work. Had I remembered that the Music Hall had a large collection of restored automated music machines – and had I found out you can drop money in a slot and play them – I’d have decided to pay to go into the restored town. I think Nevada City also has craftspeople in costume on weekends and maybe in season. That’s one of the disadvantages of traveling shoulder seasons.

    We drove the hour to Bozeman and checked into a really nice, new Residence Inn about 6:30 that was serving complementary food until 7 - pulled pork, buns, baked beans, tossed salad, chips. This was pretty good food – actually, better than most of what we paid for previously and subsequently – and more than sufficient for dinner, so we didn’t go out again. Enjoyed the luxury of a big bed, nice bathroom, etc. This was the best Residence Inn we’ve ever stayed in. (And probably seemed even nicer after 3 nights in NPS accommodations.)

  • Report Abuse

    Lewis and Clarj Caverns has many more formations than both Wind and Jewel Caves. The Caverns are very impressive...many formations and different types than are found in many caves.

    I like going to Virginia City to attend the Brewery Follies, which is kind of a risqué vaudeville act. They are wonderfully talented. Otherwise, there is not much to do. If you watched Frontier House on PBS, the cabins of the participants are restored in Nevada City.

  • Report Abuse

    I kind of figured that the night life in VA City was probably the highlight - or at least the Brewery Follies. Probably should have arrived later and stayed later. Maybe next time.

    We went to Carlsbad so many years ago that I can't really remember much. But having done Mammoth a couple or so years ago and now Jewel and Wind, I question the criteria for national park caves. (Well, BIG, that seems to be a criterion.) We used to see wild caves (at least a couple of which were commercialized later) much more beautiful in VA, WV, and TN in our youth. But something a ranger/guide said in either Wind or Jewel made me realize part of the reason NP caves may seem less attractive than the commercial and wild ones. The Park Service doesn't do any digging, blasting, other modifications that might make some beautiful formations more accessible - or accessible at all. Who knows what is hidden behind those holes too small for a 3-year-old to squeeze through? In the '60s and '70s, cavers used to open passages into other rooms, dig connections between caves, and otherwise desecrate them according to NPS views. Amateur cavers were always trying to "make a connection" then. And long before - I assume Floyd Collins was trying to make the connection between Flint Ridge and Mammoth during the years he explored Flint Ridge. (A connections that was made in '72 when some cavers crawled through a passage and came into a room with railings, or so the story goes.) Maybe cavers are still doing that, but I assume that people working in NPS caves are not at liberty to enlarge or dig to gain access.

    And probably just as well. I remember going through a beautiful cave in WV (no longer recall the name). Cavers were keeping the location, even the existence, of certain caves quiet back then (often this was to keep the locals out since they didn't follow the same conservation rules). That cave was an example of the reason. There was a beautiful grotto about 8 ft. deep and maybe 24" high with a ceiling totally covered with almost flower-like helectites. Some idiot (or idiots) had crawled into it, even though you could see most of it perfectly well without going in, and broken parts of probably 3/4s of the helectites. There are probably many times when, in order to make beautiful sections accessible - especially to tourists not prepared to crawl or straddle or chimney - you'd have to damage some very nice formations. Owners who commercialize caves will do this.

    There could be a lot of stunning stuff in NPS caves that tourists just can't get to. I know the Scenic Tour we took in Jewel didn't have all the formations mentioned in their brochure or on their website - cave pearls, which I have seen, and the hydromagnesite balloons, which I had never even heard of, come to mind. Perhaps those are on the wild tour. Or maybe the balloons will burst if you breathe on them and no one much gets to see them.

  • Report Abuse

    Lewis & Clark Caverns was privately owned for quite a while, too, and then the State of MT acquired it in the 20's. Conservation Corps workers helped cut in steps and opened up some of the rooms in the cave during the Depression. The tour includes about half of the cave, but it does include the most decorated rooms. It really has an amazing number of formations especially compared to other Nat'l Park caves: lots of helictites, full columns, stalagmites and stalactites.

    I hadn't heard of the balloons, either. Very cool!

  • Report Abuse

    Day 11 – Back to Yellowstone (Canyon), Stops at Norris and Mammoth
    Before we left Bozeman we wanted to go by REI and also get some groceries. (DH bought some shoes while I wondered where we were going to pack those huge things.) Went to Smiths, a nice grocery, and got sushi and other things for lunches and breakfasts. We also filled up the gas-guzzler with cheaper Bozeman gas.

    It was sunny and very warm when we left Bozeman but it didn’t last and we got pretty chilly eating sushi beside the Gallatin River in the wind. Enjoyed the drive on 191, then decided to take the long way round to Canyon, via Mammoth, and maybe eat dinner at Mammoth (my favorite Y’stone restaurant last visit) if it was early enough – I do not like to drive the section of road south from Mt. Washburn after dark.

    First we stopped by Norris briefly. The sun disappeared as soon as we got out of the car, so there were no nice new pictures of the Porcelain Basin, which I think is one of the prettiest spots in Yellowstone. On the way to Mammoth just before the “road bridge”, we encountered roadside cars – a goat high in the cliffs. Have never seen one in the wild and didn’t realize there were any in Yellowstone. (They’re not native.) We took photos and DH got out his spotting scope, which made a lot of difference. (You have to wonder who spotted that tiny spot of goat in the first place.) When it started to rain we packed up and left.

    Drove the upper Mammoth loop and were disappointed that it was pretty dry - although it was probably wetter than in ’08, it wasn’t nearly as nice as on our first trip. Found a few elk cows there but none with calves or that even looked pregnant. Decided it was probably too late to eat there without risking the dark drive, so we headed across the plateau. Saw a few deer, second ones of the trip and the first ones we’ve seen at Y’stone except for a buck in ’08. Then another jam, this time a black bear puttering around in the valley a couple of miles from Roosevelt Ranger Station, so we spent too much time there, too. Startled some rodent-beaver thing off the side of the road north of Mt. Washburn – seemed bigger than a marmot but we can’t imagine why a beaver would be there.

    It was still drizzling when we got to Canyon and was very cold. I wanted to locate the cabin in the remaining daylight, then go back for dinner. Lot of cabins, most of them a pretty long way from the main building; we didn’t know they run a shuttle bus to and from the cabins, but it’s quite a hike to get to some food and some people staying there on tours don’t have cars. Despite the larger cabins at Canyon, I think I prefer the OF Lodge cabins because they don’t seem so remote, yet they are a little secluded and among some trees. Have never stayed at Lake or Mammoth but the area around the Mammoth cabins is mostly clear and the cabins seem exposed; I get a “barren” feel at Mammoth. (We have stayed at that end of the park twice, but in Gardiner.)

    At the Canyon restaurant DH’s game meatloaf was pretty good; I had okay salad bar and mini-hamburger appetizers I shouldn’t have ordered and didn’t finish. Unfortunately it was pouring buckets when we left and we still had some things to get into the room. This room had queen bed, was larger than either of the others and had a side chair in addition to the desk chair. But no night stand (there was one in each of the other two rooms). We put DH’s suitcase on the arms of the side chair and the CPAP on the plastic seat, sort of a combo luggage rack/night stand. It had been too wet or cold to use the spotting scope for long, so we didn’t need the chair for the purpose we bought it, but we were glad to have it in the room again, as we were at OF. There was a brief electrical failure soon after we got back to the room that turned out to be an omen. Since it was not cold in the room we didn’t turn the heat on before we went to bed.

  • Report Abuse

    Had to leave town suddenly during the posting of this report, then got involved in other projects after I got back. By the time I finished a rush My Publisher trip book to take advantage of a great 6 day sale, I had kinda moved on in my head to other things. Somebody inquired about "suspension" on another thread, so I'll post the rest.

    Day 12 – Tower & Lamar Valley
    About 5AM I woke up not feeling too well and started looking at photos on the laptop. At 5:15 there was another power failure and this time the power stayed off. Without the CPAP DH didn’t sleep too well from then on, either. At 7AM I heard the shower next door running and running; I couldn’t imagine that anyone would shower that long but now I think someone was running the shower hoping to get some hot water; certainly ours had been cold as ice half an hour earlier. About 8AM DH got up to see if he could find housekeeping to ask about the power. (We actually had some cell service but there was no number to call.) The entire area was without power – made vacuuming a problem for housekeeping, too – and DH heard one guy say, grumpily, that he was going out to look for a hot spring.

    Room was so cold DH decided to check the heat; I had assumed it was electric but it was propane, thank goodness, and the cabin warmed, although a bit more slowly than the one at OF. DH decided to go back to bed and I fell asleep also. Electricity came on sometime after 9AM, we think, but we slept till after 10. Hated to waste a nice sunny (but cold and windy) morning but we both felt lousy. Original plan was to start the day with a short hike down to the falls on the north side of Grand Canyon of Y’stone, where we’d never been. As cold and windy as it was and since I still didn’t feel too great, we decided to drive to Tower to look for sheep and then to Lamar for wolves.

    On the way to Tower we saw what I first thought was a sheep in a field but realized quickly it was a pale coyote as it headed our way. (Yellowstone coyotes we’ve seen are somewhat yellow compared to others – guess that’s appropriate.) We were at a pullout, so we stopped and got some good close-ups of him chomping an apple core he found.

    No sheep at Tower but someone said he had seen some at Calcite Springs a few minutes before. Calcite Springs, with the views of the river, is another of my favorite photo spots. DH found two ewes and lambs (or maybe 3 pair, they moved behind things and out again) at bottom of the cliffs, set up his spotting scope and let people look. (Payback for the times others have let us look through their scopes at wolves.) Shortly thereafter we ran into a major bear jam with a black and 2 cubs taking their time crossing the road; DH joined the throngs that went down to look before they slowly ambled across and the ranger started the cars moving.

    We found nothing except bison – many milling in or along the road – and a small herd of pronghorns in Lamar Valley. There was a great horned owls’ nest – only one chick visible with spotting scope, very far away. We talked to would-be wolf spotters but they said all was quiet, no one had heard of any activity. This was to be our first trip to Yellowstone without seeing – or hearing – any wolves. The much studied and publicized (on Nature) Druid Peak pack is no longer and I understand two smaller packs are contesting the prime Lamar territory. We had seen the Druids at a great distance on the two previous trips and on the ’08 trip there was a kill close to the road near Twin Lakes that was probably our once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see wolves in the wild pretty close. Due to natural attrition (disease and wolves killing each other, their highest cause of mortality), I believe there are just over half the number of wolves in Yellowstone as a few years ago.

    On the way back we found a few cars along side the road and then I spotted another black bear. Noticed an elk cow up the hill a bit. Neither appeared to notice each other. Then the bear moseyed up there and when elk decided it was too close, she ran it off. Maybe she had a calf nearby.

    We were driving back from Tower to Canyon, intending to go on to Hayden Valley when I fell asleep, so DH decided to return to hotel when we reached Canyon. It’s a testiment to just how bad I felt that I let DH drive that stretch of road twice – no one but me has driven me there before. (Unlike some people who want someone else to drive scary roads, I need to drive them myself – I have control issues.) It had started to snow again so we went to dinner at the cafeteria, which was a mistake; worst meal of the trip. I wasn’t very hungry and ordered the kids’ grilled cheese. How can you make an awful grilled cheese?

    Despite the less-than-wonderful weather, which contributed to our not hiking around as much as we usually do, Yellowstone remains one of our favorite destinations and our absolute favorite national park. (Though Denali runs a close second as far as animals go.) We might go back to our early Sept. schedule, though; I missed the bugling elk, for one thing.

  • Report Abuse

    Day 13 – Chief Joseph Highway to Cody and the Buffalo Bill Historical Center
    To Xanterra’s credit, when we checked out, the guy at the desk asked DH if we had had a good stay. DH said yes, except for waking up unable to breathe, the cold water, etc. He immediately said, “I’ll take 20% off the room for that night.”

    Snow started again while we loaded the car. Driving from Canyon to Tower/Roosevelt (same route as the day before) I said, “Hey, something looks different from yesterday.” I realized it was the mountains. Some of the lower areas had a dusting of snow, but some of the mountains that were just snowy on top were now lightly white all over.

    No animals until we got to Lamar, then a couple of distant pronghorns; the bison that were close to the road the day before were far in the distance, many on the far side of the river. We made another stop at the great horned owl nest where some people could see 2 chicks but we only saw a large beige fluffy spot and it was too cold and windy for the scope, plus it was still snowing. No wolves and no other wolf hunters had any sightings. Farther along, where the river comes close to the road there was a black bear about the same distance as previous bears and a couple of sheep on a cliff about the same distance from us as Mars. It was so cold and windy we decided we wouldn’t likely want to walk around and explore much on Chief Joseph Hwy., thus we gave the rangers our bear spray at the park exit. A sign said that the Bear Tooth Highway was closed, so I asked the ranger if we might have problems on the Chief Joseph but she said, no, it was fine. (People who have lived in FL as long as we have tend to be a bit wary of snow.) We later learned that Bear Tooth is often closed because of rockslides, not just snow.

    According to the car, it never got below 34 and the snow wasn’t sticking. Had lunch at Bear Tooth Café in Cooke City, okay corned beef sandwich and good potato soup but DH wasn’t crazy about the chili, said it was too sweet. We were glad we didn’t need gas there because at $4.29, it was the most expensive of the trip. It was still snowing and blowing when we left Cooke City and the snow continued just about to the intersection of CJH, then winds increased. We could still see it snowing in distance. It was still very pretty but so cold with the wind chill that our stops to admire the views were brief. The worst wind was when we stopped at Dead Indian overlook; my acrophobia kicked in and I wouldn’t get out of the car but DH said if I’d tried to jump off the cliff, I’d have been blown back. (This is the end of the first week in June? Huh?)

    We got to Cody about 4 and spent a couple of hours doing the Plains Indians section of Buffalo Bill Historical Center, then most of the Buffalo Bill section on upper level. Since the admission is good for two days, we planned to go back the next day and see the rest. We got a surprise when we checked into the BW Premier Ivy where we were using a free night certificate from an earlier Best Western promotion – an upgrade to a larger room. (Have never gotten a BW upgrade and we especially didn’t expect one on a free night.) It’s a lovely hotel and deserves all the accolades it has received on TripAdvisor since it opened a few months ago.

    We realized the Emmy Awards were on TV and since we had been to NYC a month before and seen some of the contenders, we decided to watch part of it. The desk had told DH that the restaurant was open till 10, so we decided to break our “no hotel restaurant” rule and eat there later. (After all, Minerva’s in Rapid City was great.) Also the afternoon winds had picked up considerably and were so ferocious by then that we didn’t really want to venture out. But when we went down at 9:30 and were seated, the hostess gave us the late night bar menu that said 10-11PM. She said on Sunday nights the restaurant stops serving full meals at 9. We said we wished the woman at registration had mentioned that. The waitress took our order and almost immediately the hostess came back with dinner menus and told us the kitchen had agreed to serve us dinners. Then she went to a table of four next to us that obviously had the same complaint and gave them dinner menus. So the waitress had to take orders again. While they still seem to be in shake-down mode, they were certainly very accommodating and you have to give them a lot of points for that. Later the hostess came back, welcomed us to Cody, and spent some time chatting with us about Yellowstone and our trip. And told us sometimes the winds get up to 80 mph. Then she went to the next table and offered them advice and information about Yellowstone, where they were headed the next day.

  • Report Abuse

    Do you want the remaining 5,000 photos after the first two culls or the 500 I selected from those for possible use in a photo book? ;) Unfortunately, I don't use online photo storage like Flickr or Shutterfly (just buy more memory). I do make photo books with Blurb or MyPublisher and will send you a link to the SD, WY, MT book I completed a couple of weeks ago.

    Alas, it was MyPub that had the great sale, but they're much less professionally-oriented than Blurb (where viewing a book online is much better); their website is constantly being fooled around with by (not the brightest of?) techie-nerd kids. The current iteration has a much smaller display area than previously and what I thought was a full-page click box under the book image turned out to zoom in on a section rather than doing much enlarging. (And when I tried the computer zoom command, it distorted the book when I zoomed in using the website zoom function.) However, it loads fairly quickly and you can hit the "end" arrow and zoom through the 100 pages in a few seconds. Not that you can actually see anything, but you can decide if you want to do it page by page. And if you want to see one of the smaller photos or read some copy, you can use the zoom to enlarge a section and move it around till you get the photo you want. Sorry I can't give you 30 representative photos online.

    Try this. http://www.mypublisher.com/landing/email/cn/index/eml/davewhsd@gmail.com?e=OHm3Q8zJl3RzyhOtpmKt_FV0_PYFuiAa&showForm=true

  • Report Abuse

    Day 14 – More Buffalo Bill and on to Buffalo, WY
    Since we’re not major history buffs, especially western US history, The Buffalo Bill Historical Center is not generally the type of place we want to spend a great deal of time. We probably would never have gone except for recommendations on this forum; we were there several more hours our second day, though, and ended up leaving Cody an hour or two later than we planned. The wind had died down and we were able to enjoy the museum's outdoor sculpture.

    What “should” have been a 3 hr. drive to Buffalo on hwys. 14/16/20 to Ranchester and I-90 to Buffalo turned out to be over 4, what with stopping at overlooks and stalking deer and marmots on the road over the mountain, which was a lovely drive. We didn’t want to backtrack through town to get to Cody restaurants and I thought we would find something en route. We didn’t see many eating options at all and none that desirable; I was driving and I never stopped for food. Unbeknownst to me, DH was sitting in the passenger seat fuming. (Why he didn’t suggest we at least stop for a peanut butter or deviled ham sandwich or grab some trail mix, I don’t know.)

    We finally got to Buffalo and checked into the Hampton Inn & Suites but didn’t go to the room just then, we went to dinner. Desk clerk said all the places on my list were closed on Monday and the only table service restaurants were Pizza Hut, a Chinese place, and Bozeman Trail Steak House. DH was in a very bad mood from not eating lunch, I was in a bad mood with much shoulder pain from driving/wind. At this point he was more than willing (no, eager) to discuss my transgressions and I was of a mood to discuss his, so we had it out on the way to dinner. He chose the steak house because it was close, but when we got there about 5:45, they told us they could put us at a table and give us drinks but not take food order for 20-30 min. - and it was downhill from there. I’m afraid we were a bit grouchy, every waitress’s nightmare, and that was even before the list of things they were out of, including several things we wanted to order. Asked if I wanted steak fries or curly, I said curly but got steak anyway. Food wasn't even mediocre. Despite less than stellar service, we over tipped the waitress to make up for our bad moods. But we do not recommend eating in Buffalo on Monday, nor at the Bozeman Trail Steak House at any time.

    We got an upgrade at the Hampton to a suite again – a new hotel, quite nice. The woman who checked us in said they had a patio overlooking the creek where deer and geese often visited and a turtle had laid eggs the night before in their flower bed, but we forgot to look out there after our lousy dinner. We did take a look when we were checking out and it was a nice patio and nice view but it was a bit chilly to enjoy it the night before.

  • Report Abuse

    Now that's a Trip Report. Makes me want to go back to YS.

    I did go to Luray Caverns a couple of months ago. I was suprised at how decorated it was. Also hugely suprised that there were literally 2,000 people waiting in line to see it. Totally unbelievable. I posted pictures in a TR on here.

  • Report Abuse

    Loved your photobook Polly. Thanks for posting it. Enjoyed the trip report also. We'll be going in 5 weeks. Got a kick out of your "control issues" comment. I have a bit of a control issue too and this trip makes me nervous not being able to control when the geysers go off. haha

  • Report Abuse

    Every coyote I've ever seen at Yellowstone was light-colored and sort of yellowish. I thought it was because we were at Yellowstone. ;) This year I saw one heading toward geyser hill at dusk that was very, very light, but as I watched it, I realized it was shedding and the light color was chunky mats of underfur. The rather habituated coyote (worrisomely so) we encountered close-up at Mesa Verde last Sept. and others I have seen (more distantly) elsewhere were more red and gray. (But that's another book.)

    You should definitely go back to YS. You can never go there too many times IMO.

    But I don't think I'll go to Luray. Are you kidding me - 2,000 people? (I've just started working on an April trip - our first trip to Italy, apart from a week in Venice, in 40 years - and am trying to get my mind around how we need reservations for the museums, Vatican, etc., that we just walked into on our last visit.) We drove part of Skyline Drive in April '11 on a circuitous trip to DC and it turned out to be too early for it to be pretty there. Considered stopping by Luray, which was the first cave I was ever in at about age 12, but if that's the kind of crowds that are there now, I'm glad we didn't try.

    I have the last two days of the trip yet to post - much briefer, thank goodness - but you don't have to look at them, Spirobulldog, since you've read the book.

  • Report Abuse

    LOL, isn't looking at the pics all anyone ever does?

    Day 15 – Devil’s Tower, Spearfish, Deadwood, and 14A
    Next morning we drove to Devil’s Tower. We were expecting some sort of monolith rising out of flat desert land, so all the trees surprised us. We walked the 1.3 miles around the base, which I’m not sure was worth the time and effort, although the first quarter or so it was interesting to see the directional changes of the columns. Devil’s Tower was fine for a brief stop but not a place we’d make a repeat visit to. After the day before, I made sure that DH had some food. We drove to the picnic area and discovered, lo and behold, another prairie dog town. We also discovered that the bread we had been refrigerating until we got to Yellowstone had not quite survived to the end of the trip - though the mold was rather subtle and I almost didn’t notice it. Luckily we still had some cheese spread, Triscuits, fruit - enough to stave off a divorce. After lunch we took more cute prairie dog photos, making a total of 300 or more, most of which I deleted when we got home. I’m about over prairie dogs now.

    It was a quick drive from there to Spearfish. We checked into the Fairfield Inn, which was cheaper but no more remarkable than the one in Rapid City; at least here we got an upgrade to a suite, giving us more room for the final packing job. Had early dinner at the Bay Leaf and the food was good, almost as good as our first night except for a mistake on the menu description of their specials that caused me to end up with something I didn’t expect; it was good but not what I had thought I ordered. They apologized profusely and gave us a 20% discount.

    We had talked about driving 14A to the airport the next day, but since it was fairly early, we decided to take 14A to Lead and Deadwood. The road was nice through the canyon, with waterfalls and wildlife - a blue heron, some white-tail deer looking a bit dumb standing in it here and there. Deadwood, though, seems aptly named. Had somehow gotten the impression that there was a fair amount of nightlife, but we didn’t see it. Unless everyone was in a casino – in which case, they walked there, because we didn’t see many cars in the lots. Trying to look around or get to a spot where we could take a picture of an interesting building, I managed to find most of the dead ends in town and turned around in a lot of driveways, only to turn onto another dead end street. Pretty much found every dead end in town. We went back to Spearfish on Rt. 85 and packed up to fly home.

  • Report Abuse

    Day 16 – Back to Deadwood, Back to Rapid City, Back to Florida
    Another misconception I had about Deadwood was that it was sort of like Tombstone. Having not seen anything like that the previous night and planning to take the more scenic 385/44 back to Rapid City for our 3:30 flight, we returned to Deadwood on the faster Rt. 85 the next morning. Never did see anything like Tombstone and the downtown looked primarily retail/commercial and not too interesting. The other thing we talked about seeing was the cemetery referred to as “Boot Hill” in a guidebook. So when we saw signs pointing to Mt. Moriah Cemetery I told DH, “Not that one.” (What an idiot I felt like when I got home and subsequently discovered that Mt. Moriah was Boot Hill. After every trip I get back ruing the things I didn’t write down and forgot – the mechanical music machines in Nevada City – or the things I didn’t do my homework on – Mt. Moriah.)

    Although the AAA map had those scenic dots on 385, we weren’t particularly impressed. In fact, the undotted 44 was just as scenic, we thought. When we got to Rapid City, we decided to go back to Minerva’s for lunch so we wouldn’t leave on a culinary low note. Good lunch, though not as great as dinner the first night. Gas had gone down from $3.69 to $3.49 in the two weeks we’d been gone, so we filled up as I made a rough calculation that we had spent as much on gas as on the rental car.

    We arrived at the airport sooner than we needed to. We haven’t been flying as much in the last couple of years as we used to, and we’ve been able to avoid body scanners in Orlando, Las Vegas, several other airports. But in Rapid City, full body scanners are the only thing they’ve got, so there’s no getting into another line to evade one. Even had to take the Kleenex out of my pocket. We both had to have pat-downs because warning squares showed up in places we couldn’t possibly have metal, inside or out – DH’s upper left shoulder, for instance.

    We had rushed through the airport when we arrived but on leaving we had plenty of time to examine the work in progress. The airport is pretty messy since it’s undergoing extensive remodeling but it will be quite attractive when finished. There’s some nice sculpture and of the more mundane features, I particularly liked the laminated wood chair backs and seats in the snack bar and at the laptop bar with 10 stations beside the snack bar. It was a trifle warm, though, so I hope the a/c will be better when work is complete.

    As I reach the end of this too-long report, I’m left with the feeling that my epitaph should read “I left later than I planned” or “I stayed longer than I expected to.” Not that anyone would understand it.

    But as it happens, I may not have an epitaph. DH told DD about a family member who recently died without having made her wishes known about funerals, etc. DH told DD that he thought he’d be cremated and have his ashes spread at Yellowstone. (He never mentioned that to me.) I don’t really much care what happens to mine but on reflection, I thought it might be nice to go with him. After all, we enjoy traveling together and I like Yellowstone too. So I hope after all our trips we’ll still have enough money to leave for DD to make a trip to Yellowstone for a week and take us along, then leave us there. And to pay a lawyer if she gets caught, because I suspect spreading ashes at Yellowstone is illegal.

  • Report Abuse

    Polly - Thank you so much for taking the time and care to thoroughly document your trip. Loved your descriptions and appreciate your humor. My family is going to Yellowstone on Friday we have two young children so it will be a kid friendly trip. Happy Travels to you and yours. - Collette

34 Replies |Back to top

| Add a Reply

Sign in to comment.

Recent Activity

View all United States activity »
  1. 1 What do you do when your VRBO rental is a nightmare in Lake Geneva?
  2. 2 San Diego Girl's Trip in December
  3. 3 Booking Lodging at the Grand Canyon
  4. 4 NYC becoming a battleground for Air BnB apartment rentals
  5. 5 Grand Teton & Yellowstone & ???
  6. 6 Weather in Hawaii in January
  7. 7 Three or Four Nights in Moab?
  8. 8 Relocation: Where Do We Fit In
  9. 9 Trip Report Utah mid Sept Trip Report, Zion, Bryce, Arches- beautiful!
  10. 10 Looking for good moonstone beach hotels in cambria
  11. 11 Breckenridge in October
  12. 12 East Coast to West Coast travel route
  13. 13 Family Trip to Moab - Flying into SLC
  14. 14 Richmond highlights?
  15. 15 Best City on the Gulf Coast to live?
  16. 16 "HUMORLESS" response to Kauai comment silliness
  17. 17 Central Park Fall Foliage
  18. 18 Pet Friendly places in Myrtle Beach
  19. 19 Trip Report I am "The Prince of Tides"
  20. 20 Things to do in and around Westbrook, CT in November 2014
  21. 21 New York accommodation - apartment for family needed (winter)
  22. 22 Washington DC in Spring?
  23. 23 Quick advice needed for 1st visit to HNL & Kauai
  24. 24 montana vs ft nelson bc area
  25. 25 Must Eats
View next 25 » Back to the top