rampup82

Hi -

I'll be flying into Cuzco and staying in the Sacred Valley for 4 nights. Not a lot of time, I know, but where would you guys recommend us staying? I was thinking of staying in Cuzco the whole time and booking day tours to see the rest of the Sacred Valley/Machu Picchu, to avoid moving every 1-2 nights. Any suggestions?

Also, which train to Machu Picchu is recommended?

Thanks in advance!

mlgb

I wouldn't stay in Cusco the whole time. Maybe 3 nights in Ollantaytambo and just the last night in Cusco.

Just my opinion.

I like Ollantaytambo and there are a lot more trains from there, than from Cusco. For a day trip I'd take the earliest train (to me, it doesn't matter which class of train).

El Albergue is handy for the first train since you are right on the tracks.

mlgb

I now realize that last sentence sounds a bit odd! The hotel is adjacent to the train station platform, not ON the tracks!.

sf7307

The rooms are not on the street so it's not loud either - it's a lovely inn.

crellston

" you are right on the tracks" - at least won't be on the wrong side of the tracks!

Great advice from mlgb. Staying in Ollantaytambo will also make it a little easier to adjust to the altitude than staying in Cusco.

nankar123

I agree with the above suggestions. It is a long drive back to Cusco. Ollantaytambo is a lovely, quirky little town. We stayed at Pakaritampu which was great and is also very close to the train station. The ruins in Ollan are also quite impressive and within walking distance of the hotel.

sf7307

Pakaritampu

We passed by and it's a beautiful hotel, I think quite a bit more expensive than El Albergue (but then we got a really good rate at the latter).

rampup82

thanks guys! we will stay in Ollantaytambo the majority of the time, then visit cusco on the last day.

another quick question - what's the best time to visit machu picchu? morning, afternoon, late afternoon? trying to book our train tickets now. thanks!

mlgb

All day if you plan on doing the walk up to the Sun Gate. Site is least crowded for the first few hours (say up until 10 am) and then after 3 pm. So try and catch at least one of those time frames. For Peru Rail I would probably recommend the 6:10 am Expedition which should get you up top around 8-8:30 am. BTW if you are in Ollantaytambo and decide to change your time, with 24 hour notice you should be able to do so at the station for a small penalty. Check the website to be sure this hasn't changed.

The return trains on Peru Rail are overpriced for some of the late afternoon times (because those are the most popular). My first visit I took the 2:55 pm Expedition back, which was enough time and it started to rain at lunchtime (it was January).

The second time I used Inca Rail, up on the 6:40 am and return on the 7 pm. That time I walked up to the Sun Gate and waited for the fog to lift, which took a while (May)rather than later. Inca Rail may be slightly less in price, same tracks. Trains may be a little older. I went tourist class, which has two people facing two others. Not a lot of leg room but not a problem for short people. There were two lovely Ecuadorian tourists across from us. Fun to chat. Of course you also risk getting grumpy Germans.

BTW the prediction for El Niño, if it comes true, is usually good for suppressing rainfall in the Andes. The bigger impact is the north coast (Chiclayo, Trujillo, etc).
They still aren't sure about where or how strong, though.

Axel2DP

I just came back from staying 3 nights in Ollantaytambo. I really enjoyed the city and really wished I had at least one more day there as I didn't get a chance to do all the things that I had planned. I did a walk in at Apu Lodge and was lucky they had a room available for 3 nights; A really great place to stay. I highly recommend taking a walk around the alleys of the city and walk out a bit further than the normal touristy spots to see how people live.

I don't know if I would recommend eating at any places around the main Plaza at Ollantay though. I had dinner there twice at two different locations: The first place had pizza with chewy crust; at the second place, the waitress seemed disinterested and the food wasn't great either. Better to stick with what is recommended in your guide books.

I also stayed for 2 nights in Pisac at Hotel Pisac Inca that is run by two young sisters. Also a decent place to stay.

I visited Machu Picchu on 3 different days - 2 whole days + 1 half day before catching a train back to Ollantay. It was covered in fog for most of the morning at least until 12pm or after. But I liked it though - the fog rolling in and out made for beautiful pictures when viewed from a high point like from the top of Machu Picchu Mountain. I think the best time is in the late afternoon; Most of the crowd has dispersed and the low lighting of the setting sun can be fantastic. It rained sometimes in the afternoon, but I also saw two beautiful rainbows as a result of it, so don't worry if it rains. And the sunlight hitting the main area of MP after or during the rain can be one of the most beautiful thing that you'll see.

Honestly, after staying in Pisac and Ollantaytambo and then coming back to Cuzco, I though Cuzco was just too crowded and too much traffic for me (but I still liked it though if less so than the Sacred Valley). The Cuzco touts were the most annoying, although I do realized it was just people trying to make a living; Still, every one block I walked to, there was someone asking me if I wanted a massage.

mlgb

Sounds like a nice trip Axel2DP.

To tell the truth I do not know that even the guidebook restaurant suggestions are going to be great either in Ollantaytambo. I think it has just exploded too quickly, 5 years ago there might have been 5 restaurants and now there are nearly 40 listed on TA. Many employees take the bus daily from Cusco and the place shuts down early.

Even the El Albergue restaurant had gone way downhill since my first visit.

My advice would be to save your splurge meal for Cusco and stick to the basic stuff in Ollantaytambo, I found that grilled trout is usually pretty decent if you like fish. I went to Mayupata and it was okay, slow service is the norm.