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Villa de Leyva - a week too much and other questions..

Villa de Leyva - a week too much and other questions..

Old Jun 27th, 2016, 05:08 PM
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Villa de Leyva - a week too much and other questions..

I know a few of you, mlgb, yestravel, welltravelledbrits and glover have all spent time in Villa de Leyva. I would welcome your opinions on whether it warrants maybe 6-7 days. It seems like there is a lot to do there as we are into hiking, colonial architecture (and I may even venture back on to four legs!). We are also looking for somewhere to rest up awhile and just chill out before we meet up with friends in Lima for a fairly intense 5 weeks in Peru, Bolivia and Argentina.

I am also considering Barichara but there seems less going on in the immediate area. Opinions on San Gil? I have a concern that it may be too "backpackerish" After a number of long bus journeys alongside many twentysomethings, my "awesomeness" tolerance level is in danger of being breached - maybe I am just getting old?

Any general thoughts and/or suggestions for places to stay, would, as always, be much appreciated.
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Old Jun 28th, 2016, 11:35 AM
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I was there 3 nights. I might go 4 or 5 but probably not more. Maybe I'd reserve 3 or 4 nights to start and see if I feel like moving along..maybe back to Bogota?

Make sure you can access the hiking if you wanted to go to that nearby national park. There is a hostel that runs nature tours.
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Old Jun 28th, 2016, 11:44 AM
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I hear you on the wanting to chill out. We feel that way too on long trips and you're trips are much longer than our jaunts. I think VdL would be fine for that far better than Barichiara which is very quiet mid week. We did meet folks doing hikes from there I think with a guide so possibly more to do than we saw. But at night midweek Barichiara is dead with much closed. VdL was more vibrant in the evenings. I think you would find plenty to keep you occupied in VDL either by exploring with a guide or in your own rental.

Didn't go to San Gil because we thought it might be as you described.

Where are you now? Liking Colombia?
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Old Jun 28th, 2016, 02:07 PM
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Great info - thanks. I think I will do as you suggest mlgb. I was a little concerned tha VDl would be booked out over weekends so will probably book 3-4 nights over a weekend and maybe extend if we like it.

Sound like Barichara is best visited over the weekend YT. A few other smaller places we want to include in that region so we should be able to fit some of those in, in between the two.

Still debating on whether we want to go up to Tayrona, everything I read seems to be about hammock on the beach! Maybe 40 years ago!
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Old Jun 28th, 2016, 02:10 PM
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PS YT - absolutely loving Colombia. The people seem the friendliest of anywhere we have been in SA. The scenery is absolutely stunning, the food, that we had read was rubbish, is pretty good and the country is so much cheaper than anywhere else we have been on the continent - ncreasingly important given the state of the £ post BREXIT!
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Old Jun 28th, 2016, 04:41 PM
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You read the food was rubbish? I had a bad experience at a fancy seafood restaurant in Bogota but otherwise it okay-to-good, and more variety than in Ecuador. What was I thinking ordering seafood in the Andes, anyways?

I had trouble finding a guide at the last minute in VdL.
Renacer Hostel which is the one I've mentioned that is outside of town has a connection to Colombian Highlands touring. There have been some comments that the area nearby for hiking was closed due to fire, drought etc so I'd check that out.

Hope when you rest up you will get back to the the blog!
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Old Jun 28th, 2016, 11:06 PM
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Glad you are enjoying Colombia. Agree that the pre are very helpful and friendly. We generally had good food outside the major cities and some excellent food on the cities. And yes, cheap as can be.

Hope you get back to your blog soon.

Re Brexit- what were the people thinking???
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Old Jun 29th, 2016, 04:09 AM
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Brexit??? Who knows, a referendum was the worst idea our Prime Minister ever had. Politcians seem to promise anything and everything to get re elected. I think the GB public voted on their own agenda, rather than the actual issue of EU membership.

Have had a few problems with Wordpress & uploading photos to the blog lately which, hopefully have been resolved. Entries are written and ready to launch. In the meantime YT, if I recall correctly, you are on your way to Aus? If so you might be interested on our take on a family visit to Sydney and the Blue mountains ( Melbourne to follow) it didn't go out in the usual way via email as it was from last October.
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Old Jun 29th, 2016, 04:10 AM
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https://accidentalnomads.com/category/australia/
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Old Jun 29th, 2016, 07:51 AM
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Thanks! Yes, we will be in
AUS this winter so will take a look.

Ugh to politicians and their damn promises. And will never understand why people vote without understanding the implications of the issues.
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Old Jul 4th, 2016, 04:52 AM
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So glad you are enjoying Colombia, Crellston! Based on your trs, I can see you two chilling in VDL. For a week. We spent only 3 nights or so there in the thick of Post Christmas holidays, so it was a bit crowded. But definitely liked the town and surrounding areas. Also stayed at Previously mentioned Renacer hostel and used a very good guide named Enrique from Colombian Highlands. We loved Barichara.

Like yes travel, we'll be in Australia (and NZ) early next year, so glad to hear you've posted lots of trs!
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Old Jul 6th, 2016, 11:11 AM
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Thanks for the input glover. After mlgb's suggestion I am in contact with Renacer re hiking and staying I their hostal. Will probably stay there if only for part of the time. Also looking at Airbnb in the vicinity.

Just posted re Cuenca https://accidentalnomads.com/2016/07...lonial-cuenca/

Cotopaxi, Otavalo and Ibarra to follow shortly.
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Old Jul 6th, 2016, 08:17 PM
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Sorry about the bus and your back- I can so relate. I remember the taxi "lines" at the bus stop. Total chaos as I recall. It was bad enough after a long bus trip in the afternoon. Couldn't imagine it after an overnight trip.

Glad you enjoyed Casa Montalvo. We just visited with her friend who spends half time in Ecuador and other half in New Mexico.

I thought Panama hat was do called because workers on the Panama Canal wore them. In any case, they are great hats.

Hope you had some volcano sightings,
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Old Jul 12th, 2016, 04:14 PM
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If you decide to also move into the center of Villa de Leyva for part of your stay, I used this place. The owner Marta is a gem. There are several other hostels/inns on the same street which has the advantage of no through traffic. Great location.

http://www.hotelsolardelavilla.com/
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Old Jul 12th, 2016, 08:41 PM
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Thanks mlgb - we have sorted out and Airbnb place for VDL for a few days and will be looking for somwhere in town so you suggestion is most opportune!

We need a gem of an owner at the moment!

Just come back from Mompos. Hell of a journey from Cartagena. A bizzare sort of place but I mention it for its bird watching potential. It is a a massive wetlands area and we just spent an afternoon and evening on a boat and cart travelling the waterways. Thought I would mention it in the contest of your forthcoming trip Because as a novice, it seemed as though there is an astounding amount of bird life there.
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Old Jul 12th, 2016, 09:08 PM
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Thanks for that, and also opportune because it seems I have been bumped to a wait list for that trip. So I will either have to find a different tour or just do a few adhoc excursions.

Instead I snagged a bargain airfare and will spend 3 weeks in Peru. Are you still there by Aug 24 or do we miss each other by hours?

I will probably just stay a few days in Lima at the start and more time at the tail end.
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Old Jul 13th, 2016, 03:50 AM
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We arrive in Lima on 09 August from Bogota after that our itinerary is as follows.
Fri, 12 Aug 2016 Lima
Sat, 13 Aug 2016 Lima
Sun, 14 Aug 2016 Overnight on Bus
Mon, 15 Aug 2016 Arequipa
Tue, 16 Aug 2016 Arequipa
Wed, 17 Aug 2016 Colca Canyon
Thu, 18 Aug 2016 Colca Canyon
Fri, 19 Aug 2016 Puno
Sat, 20 Aug 2016 Puno
Sun, 21 Aug 2016 Cusco - Inka Express
Mon, 22 Aug 2016 Cusco
Tue, 23 Aug 2016 Ollantaytambo
Wed, 24 Aug 2016 Ollantaytambo
Thu, 25 Aug 2016 Cusco
Fri, 26 Aug 2016 Cusco

From Cusco we (hopefully!) fly to La Paz. Any of those dates coincide with your plans?
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Old Jul 13th, 2016, 05:40 AM
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Many thanks mlgb - just booked that place for a couple of nights
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Old Jul 13th, 2016, 10:35 AM
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Hopefully Marta will be there to pass out the hugs.

My favorite things in VdL were Casa de Barro, the weekend market, eating pastries (including their famous napoleon with dulce de leche), and just wandering around town. There is also excellent ice cream (Santa Lucia was #1, they also look pretty good for pizza, and are close to El Solar).

Chances are I won't go to Cusco etc again, although I am just starting research. I think it's a festival week in Ayacucho so I might start there and go back to Lima via Huancayo if I can figure things out.

Another and/or second circuit would be to fly into Tarapota and do some overland routings back to Chachas, Cajamarca, etc.

Is this your first visit to Colca Canyon? I liked Giardino tours which has been specializing in the area for a long time, and has their own hotel in Corporaque, Mama Yaachi. Did one of their group tours and wound up with only two passengers, that's probably not going to happen in August! I spent a second night in Yanque, which I also liked. Good hike from Yanque (Killawasi Lodge) to Uyu Uyu. Also less less expensive options in Yanque. Cute town with a historic church, on the edge of the canyon. I hope it hasn't become overly tourist-affected.
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Old Jul 13th, 2016, 01:35 PM
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I liked Ayacucho a lot, despite the fact that they were digging up all the streets in the town when we were there! I did think of Huancayo for this trip and would have loved to have done the train but I don't think it was running in the window we had.

Yes, this is our first time to Colca but the third to Arequipa. Both times previously we were all set and then earthquakes happened both times. Anyone else should probably avoid Colca around the 17/18 August, just in case I am jinxed!

As we have other travelling with us I took the easy option and booked a couple of nights at Killawasi who will pick us up in Arequipa and drop us off in Puno ( using 4M I think).
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