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Valpo, Lakes, Chiloe & Patagonia Time allotment?

Valpo, Lakes, Chiloe & Patagonia Time allotment?

Old Jan 18th, 2017, 11:43 AM
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Valpo, Lakes, Chiloe & Patagonia Time allotment?

Hi,
My husband and I are planning a first-time trip to Chile for January 2018 and I'd love help in refining my itinerary. I'm working around a 4 night cruise on Australis from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia that will be at the end of January and building up the trip beforehand.
I'm in early 60's and husband in early 70's and trip emphasis is on beautiful scenery, light hiking and kayaking, good food and atmospheric places to stay. We've been to Buenos Aires in the past so don't want to spend much time there at the end.

Am I allocating too much time to Lake District? I originally was going to spend 3 nights in Chiloe but removed one to add to Puerto Vara. Should we add a night to Valpo? Would love to hear your thoughts!

So, Day 1: arrive in Santiago and get a private transfer to Valparaiso
Day 2: Valparaiso
Day 3: private transfer back to Santiago airport. Fly to Temuco...drive to Pucon
Day 4: Pucon
Day 5: Pucon
Day 6: drive to Puerto Varas
Day 7: Puerto Varas
Day 8: Puerto Varas
Day 9: drive to Chiloe
Day 10: Chiloe
Day 11: fly from Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales....drive into TdP staying in Park
Day 12: TdP
Day 13: TdP
Day 14: drive to Puerto Arenas
Day 15: cruise
Day 16: cruise
Day 17: cruise
Day 18: cruise
Day 19: Ushuaia
Day 20: fly to BA
Day 21: BA
Day 22: fly back to US
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Old Jan 18th, 2017, 12:05 PM
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I have only been to the TdP area so that is all I can comment on.
- Are you sure you can fly into Puerto Natales? That hasn't been possible in the past. That is very important to find out because otherwise you will need to fly into Punta Arenas, a very long drive to TdP. You will only have two full days for TdP-that isn't much at all. The distances in the park are great and very slow going but if you aren't doing any trekking and only sightseeing from a tour bus I suppose you can see some of the major areas. Are you planning on taking tours? There was no gas for sale in TdP before, don;t know if that has changed recently and you will not have enough in one tank to get there, drive around and get back to the nearest station.
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Old Jan 18th, 2017, 01:36 PM
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Hi odie1...I just read that you can now fly on Sky or Latam to PN in the summer...but I haven't checked that out to confirm yet. Just hoping. Since we'll stay in the park (hopefully at Hotel las Torres) I think we can get two good days of short hikes. Wasn't planning to be on a tour bus since we'll have our own car and I know there are ways to get some gas in the park. Since we'll be on the cruise going by and up to glaciers, we may be able to skip seeing the Gray glacier and we'll also be doing some day hikes going thru Tierra del Fuego and Beagle Channel so I think we'll get our fill. If we have to fly into Punta Arenas, then maybe I'll add another day to TdP. We could take the night in Punta Arenas and add it to TdP, but I'm always a little hesitant about a long travel day when we have a cruise to catch...especially if it happens to be a wild stormy day and we have a five hour drive. Thanks for your comments!
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Old Jan 18th, 2017, 01:44 PM
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LATAM is advertising that they are starting flights to PN, not sure of the timing but I would thnk Jan being high season it should be okay.

I am not sure about all the lakes, not an expert as we only had a day off a cruise ship. I did like Valparaiso ( few months later than January so probably a bit less crowded). . If you get an early flight in and a private transfer you should be able to spend the 1st half day there, perhaps in time for the Tourst4Tips graffiti-oriented tour at 3 pm, no reservations needed, just show up at the meeting point.

So 2 nights is probably okay.

In Torres del Paine there are a few options, one is doing a seat in van day tour from PN which can get you views along the main south road, and a moderate hike out the spit if the wind isn't bad (hah!) to a good viewpoint as well as seeing one of the waterfalls. When I did this I was able to connect with the van shuttle going into the Las Torres hotel.

You'd have to be careful about gas, as odie1 mentions, if you drive yourselves, which is also a good option.

A good way to see some of the best views of the Cuernos is to take the catamaran from Pudeto. I'm guessing you will not wish to hike to the Towers so will have to settle for a distant view.
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Old Jan 18th, 2017, 02:09 PM
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Thanks migb!
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Old Jan 18th, 2017, 03:27 PM
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We visited all the places you mention. You can flip thru our TR by clicking on my name and see how we worked it out. I was pleased with our allotment of days, but we were on a longer trip thank you.

When we were in TDP we were able to buy gas albeit very expensive. We ended up thinking that we probably could have made it without the gas purchase, but didn't want to take a chance. This was 5-6 years ago. TDP is gorgeous, one of my favorite places I have visited.
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Old Jan 18th, 2017, 03:32 PM
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It is never too early to book your lodging inside the TdP park. You can probably book the hotel now and other lodging becomes available in May. You can do all inclusive with Hotel Torres if you wish. Check the option for them to pick you up at the airport. With all inclusive and from/to Puerto Natales there is no need for a car. Roads in the park are limited. Do not count on getting any gas/petrol inside the park. In the past and in an emergency situation it was possible but visitor numbers have greatly increased.

It is Punta Arenas not Puerto Arenas.

The flights to Puerto Natales for next year should start around November. They are not daily flights so check that all your dates match up. The flights started last December after the upgrading of the aerodrome to airport.
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Old Jan 18th, 2017, 04:00 PM
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yes travel...I have already read your excellent trip report and got much needed info from that...particularly the gas!
Huentetu: good thought to book our TdP hotel now. I probably should verify intl flights first and the cruise booking. That's a good idea to just use the inclusive and not get a car...altho I was going to use it to drive to Punta Arenas. I'll check now to see what days the flights to PN go on and try to match that up. If not...there's always that long drive.
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Old Jan 18th, 2017, 06:14 PM
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Another option to go back to P.Arenas is bus.
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Old Jan 19th, 2017, 04:47 AM
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Thanks mlgb...I'll look into other options than renting a car
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Old Jan 19th, 2017, 08:45 AM
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If you go all inclusive with Las Torres, they may include your transfer all the way back to PA.

I did a quick search and it looks like maybe Buses Sur has online ticket sales for the buses, which is a YUGE improvement if too. If nothing else their website should help with timing

Buses run in two legs, TdP to PN (you need the midday bus if you want to get all the way back to PA.) I recall there were several services, and the all left at the same times,way back in history you could pay on the bus without a reservation.

If not, here is the website.

http://bussur.com/venta-online/?lang=en
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Old Jan 19th, 2017, 11:56 AM
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thanks again mlgb! I just checked on that flight to Puerto Natales and it's way too expensive. So, I'll fly into Punta Arenas....and my thought is to rent a car because I checked on the all inclusive rates at Hotel las Torres and they seemed really high too. So, will just book a room and organize excursions on our own. I also like a car so I can stop and take photos at will.
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Old Jan 19th, 2017, 05:34 PM
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Yes, the AI rates are high. I have no idea how it compares cost-wise a B&B rate plus renting a car and buying gas and meals...Food in the park is expensive, I think I ate a big breakfast, made a ham and cheese for lunch from the breakfast buffet (if they still have that), and something from the hotel bar for dinner.

Though Having a car means you don't have to worry about missing bus transfer connections, especially if trying to drive back to Punta Arenas in a day.

The drive is probably a little boring, mostly flat but within the park there are probably places you can find some wildlife,flamigos in some of the lakes, the guanacos, maybe rheas. As you come down Ruta9 ,turn in to look at Laguna Cabeza del Mar for the Coscoroba Swans, we also saw a condor in that area.

If you want a lodging recommendation in Punta Arenas, La Casa Escondida is wonderful.. they typically include local transfers into Punta Arenas if you need them, either into town or the airport. The port is right at the end of town so should think they could do that if it helps. I think a few Fodorites have stayed there since me...

The owners are English teachers so communicating with them is easy. They are on booking.com or direct at

http://www.lacasaescondida.cl/home.html
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Old Jan 20th, 2017, 04:33 AM
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we had a car and we drove. You can read my trip report from 2013 here:

http://www.fodors.com/community/sout...reath-away.cfm

Puerto Natales, starts on Jan 11 and then goes on to TdP and PA.

Some people brought gas cans with them as an option for in the park but there supposedly is one place that may sell it at exorbitant prices. We found the hysteria rio serrano a great choice for TdP and agree with mlgb on La Casa Escondido-we loved it!
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Old Jan 20th, 2017, 06:45 AM
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mlgb & odie1, thanks for the casa escondido recom...we'll be staying there one night both ways (for trip ease sake) so will need a comfortable place to stay. I'll look at the Rio Serrano as well altho the las Torres hotel looks so convenient. Just got confirm on my cruise so next must do is secure TdP lodging.
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Old Jan 20th, 2017, 07:17 AM
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odie1, just re-read your TR...wow on the hiking! And so impressed your 11 yr old daughter kept up! Where did you stay near TdP? Hope we can find some scenic shorter hikes to take because yours are beyond our capabilities...and,. I don't like horse riding.
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Old Jan 20th, 2017, 08:42 AM
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One of the hikes I liked (weather dependent) was to Mirador Lago Grey. http://www.torresdelpaine.com/en/atr...dor-lago-grey/

You should be able to do the very short hike to Salto Grande, and take the catamaran across the lake (with excellent views), and possible a little flat hiking from Paine Grande (go toward French Valley, not toward Glacier Grey).

As a day hike, I doubt't you could make it even part way up tthe French Valley and back for the return catamaran. Howeve it's about 4 hours Return to Italian Camp. From there you can decide how far up to walk. I split up my stay at Los Torres with a night at Paine Grande in order to do that hike, you can get some good views of the back sides of the Cuernos..and if you go uphill a bit perhaps the French Valley glacier will let go..Vertice Patagonia has 2-person bunk rooms.

http://www.torresdelpaine.com/en/atr...french-valley/

Of course the farther west you go in the park, the windier it is.. I abandoned trying to hike west to Glacier Grey, just too unpleasant and no views. But going r/t to French Valley was not bad, despite some snow sprinkles.

There are a few other places you can see with the car with some nice views and little hiking.

BTW I was not overly thrilled with the Milodon Cave.

The official park website is worth checking for trip planning..the access roads have changed since I visited

http://www.parquetorresdelpaine.cl/en/vias-de-acceso
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Old Jan 20th, 2017, 11:07 AM
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barefoot-
We stayed at the Hosteria Rio Serrano which is literally just outside the south entrance to the park. We were quite happy with it considering the prices at the other hotels.
In Puerto Natales we stayed at Pire Mapu in their family room. We liked it, the hosts were very nice, the breakfasts were very good. It was removed from town so it was a walk in but that doesn't bother us. Not totally certain I would stay there again, though my husband said he would, but really more so because it was tight for the three of us. Definitely the feeling of being a guest in someone's house.
And I see you are staying at Casa Escondido-as I said we loved it! They were so wonderful to us. My mom ended up being hospitalized back home while we were there (it was very, very bad-though knock on wood she pulled through it) and they were so kind in trying to help me get home. Even the owner's mother, who I ran into on the street downtown later one day came up to me and hugged me and in Spanish was asking me how my mom was and that she was praying for her, etc. Just fantastic people AND the food was awesome to boot.
As for hikes, the hike to Mirador Glacier Gray was not as exciting for us but then we had just come from Perito Moreno and the day was rainy so it was not as beautiful as I am sure it can be on a nice day. Walking out to Salto Grande was awesome. We also enjoyed the small walk around the Explora lodge on the walkways. The short walk we did when we pulled over just after crossing the river after we walked around the Explora Lodge was very nice as well. We saw vans there from some of the ecolodges so it is a spot they go.
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Old Jan 20th, 2017, 01:19 PM
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Be aware that there are different Miradors.. I also wouldn't recommend the west leg of the "W" to Mirador Glacier Grey.


The hike I liked was from near Hotel Lago Grey, where you walk along the gravel spit from near Guarderia Grey out to the little island at the south end of Lago Grey.On Google Maps it's called Mirador Lago Grey.

See if this works..

http://tinyurl.com/h3zumtw
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Old Jan 21st, 2017, 05:26 AM
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mlgb-Didn't realize there were different Miradors but I too was talking about the hike from the Guarderia. The walk was lovely and we did see a family (mother, father and juvenile) of Magallenic Woodpeckers on the walk (which was a highlight for us) but I just meant the glacier was anticlimactic. But if I were looking for easier walks, I would definitely do it. We did love seeing the enormous icebergs beached right on shore too.
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