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Old Dec 12th, 2010, 09:04 PM
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Ushuaia, Argentina Gateway To Antarctica And More ...

With an Antarctic trip planned out of Ushuaia, I head down a few days early to check out "El Fin Del Mundo". The End Of The World.
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Old Dec 13th, 2010, 05:13 AM
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USHUAIA ARRIVAL

I arrive in Ushuaia on Aerolinas Argentina Flight 1872 with no accommodations arranged except for a room at Hotel Las Lengas provided by Quark Expedition as a part of my trip. While this may seem unusual for some it is a normal part of my routine when I travel. I make the assumption that there is always a room available or somewhere to sleep in any city. The difference being the experience and price you will pay in the process.

I am pleasantly surprise to find free wi-fi available at the airport and this immensely helps my search for nightly accommodations. Using a free booking site I get a good idea of the location and availability of rooms in Ushuaia for the evening. Prices online range from $70 per night to more than $400 per night at local area resorts.

Having already spent what I consider a small fortune for my trip, I narrow my choices down to the lower end of that price range. Reluctant to book online ($70 per night thru a hotel booking site) without seeing the property I arrange a taxi and head to Hosteria Chalp. It is normally a AR$20 fare into town from the airport but since I have hung around the airport long enough to watch it close, a taxi has to be called from in town to pick me up. This causes me an extra AR$14 a little over US$3.

I arrive at Hosteria Chalp located at Av. Alem 1839 and immediately get an opportunity to practice my limited Spanish. “Tiene habitaciones anoche?” “Si, matrimonio AR$150”. Having walked down the aisle before I am reluctant to say “I do” but it a heck of a bargain. Had I booked the room online it would have been AR$280 almost six times the price! Ok, I got a little excited, it's more like twice the price. As it turns out I get a room for two nights for US$75.

My room is clean, well heated, has free wi-fi and breakfast included in the price. Although the hotel has a few quiet spots and great views from the under construction roof top you might become familiar with a loud neighbor's travel plans. For me, I have experienced the same situation in more expensive hotels and always hope for quiet neighbors or good sound insulation when checking in.

With many hours of daylight here it is easy to lose track of time. It is almost 11pm when I leave Hosteria Chalp for a stroll into town. Crossing the street I follow a dirt road through a small neighborhood where the local rough bunch of canines are checking me out. Before long I am on Magallanes a main street through the town.

A stop at busy pizzeria and I am having a sampling of empanadas and an Argentinian beer, Quilmes. I am not sure if it is my second Quilmes or forgetting that my eyes are often bigger than my stomach, alright no one's eyes are that big, but I order a “Mozzarella” pizza.

I am slightly embarrassed when my gigantic and loaded with cheese pizza shows up. I eat a few slices as to not offend the pizza “Godfather” and to show a little respect for the "Family". However, I am now feeling like a cow fish.

I leave the restaurant about US$10 lighter but with some guilt for ordering so much food. However, it is soon past midnight and a new day has began. I have a fresh start and no more culinary guilt. Back at Hosteria Chalp a full stomach along with a warm clean bed dismisses the need to count sheep.


Photos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mnKU6rOC1s
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Old Dec 13th, 2010, 08:25 AM
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Sounds like a nice start to your trip...hope the seas are calmer for your adventure to Antartica. Looking forward to reading more! We enjoyed Ushuaia, a bit like the "wild west".
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Old Dec 14th, 2010, 06:20 AM
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owlwoman,

Thanks. Enjoyed Ushuaia. More postings and photos to come!
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Old Dec 14th, 2010, 08:30 AM
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A SUNDAY STROLL

I am awake in time to have a complimentary breakfast at Hosteria Chalp before I set out on a morning stroll to explore Ushuaia.

Although it is past 10 O'clock in the morning, most of the town still seems to be asleep as I walk towards “El Centro”. Back on Magallanes, I make a brief stop at a memorial honoring war veterans from the Ushuaia area. The memorial is in need of repair but majestic snow cap mountains in the background serves as a nice distraction.

Panaderia, Panaderia, an alarm is being sounded as my senses perceive a serious threat to my caloric intake for the day. I have discovered by accident, Panaderia Eureka on Don Bosco just south of Magallanes.

Have I told you how much I love you? Although you are a bit flaky and have a few strawberry freckles, sprinkled with coconut, you drive me crazy! Apparently, the Argentinians have found a delicious way to dress up a croissant and I personally have no objections to it.

This southern area of Argentina makes many claims to being the end of the world, “El Fin Del Mundo”. If you ever wanted to know how far it is to end of the world then take a hike along San Martin Ave in Ushuaia. Here you can find a marker that will give you the distances to many of the cities around the globe. Bombay, India, 14868km or just about 9300 miles, an easy day walk for you.

Avenida San Martin is the main street in Ushuaia lined with unique stores and fancy restaurants along with a casino. On a Sunday morning most stores are closed and the town is relatively quite. I notice that even on regular days many businesses are closed from around 1pm until early in the evening.

Along San Martin you can purchase almost anything you have left at home if you are willing to pay inflated “tourist” prices. Regular prices like less than US$1 for a cold one can still be found at a local grocery store on the west end of San Martin.

Photos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oT1EgyCX4nE
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Old Dec 14th, 2010, 08:58 AM
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Following your meanderings. Thanks for sharing. Those medialunas are pretty addictive, aren't they?
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Old Dec 14th, 2010, 09:22 AM
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Treesa,

I was in love with a crossiant and didn't even know her name! Yes, Senorita Medialuna can be very addictive, already I miss her so much
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Old Dec 14th, 2010, 09:25 AM
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See I am so fluttered, I can't even spell croissant! Forgive me, Senorita Medialuna.
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Old Dec 14th, 2010, 06:27 PM
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USHUAIA WATERFRONT

Walking down a south inclined street from Avenida San Martin, I find myself along the waterfront. There is a slight chill in the air from a blowing wind but the scenery around me is gorgeous. The city is practically encompassed by towering mountains. Distinct vegetation lines along with snow can be seen on some of them in the background.

The seas are calm along the waterfront where a grounded tugboat rest secured as a memorial to other ships that have experienced the ocean's rage. Near the shore the water is almost crystal clear as ducks take a morning swim. In the distance, I can see the pier I hope to be sailing from in a few days and continue my stroll in that direction.

Just before reaching the port I stop at a local gas station and pick up a pair of empanadas and a snack for about AR$9. This time I am smart enough to not try to order a pizza at the same time. In less than five minutes I am at Puerto Ushuaia, “The Most Active Gateway To Antarctica.”

At Puerto Ushuaia you can find many boat operators that offer tours of Beagle Canal. Most sail three times a day at 0930, 1500 and 1900. For AR$180 plus AR$6 port tax, I sign up for the 1500 (3pm) tour which still gives me a few hours to explore a bit more of Ushuaia. Next, Museo Maritimo de Ushuaia, The Maritime Museum of Ushuaia.

Photos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFgpE9v1kTA
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Old Dec 16th, 2010, 05:56 AM
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This sounds great! I want to go....!
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Old Dec 16th, 2010, 07:50 AM
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"Panaderia, panaderia"...LOL
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Old Dec 17th, 2010, 05:49 AM
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MariaAurelio,

Hope by the end of my postings (lots more to come) that will be packing
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Old Dec 17th, 2010, 05:51 AM
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mglb

Medialuna, Medialuna, oh Medialuna
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Old Dec 18th, 2010, 04:47 AM
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EL PRESIDO MILITAR

Imagine it is 1896 and you have been convicted of a major crime in Argentina, you might just find yourself here, El Presidio Militiar in Ushuaia.

Although the merger of the military prison and the jail in Ushuaia did not occur until 1911 by Presidential decree, most of the country's hardened criminals were shipped to this part of Argentina. The first group of convicts arrived by naval ship in January 1896.

Housed near the coal burning engine room, the prisoners endured miserably hot conditions often breathing in toxic coal dust on their journey south. Some would say inhumane conditions while others believed it was just a part of their punishment.

One benefit of the prison here was that it lead to the construction of the world's most southern railway in 1911.

In 1947 the prison was closed and the property transferred to Navy. El Presido Militiar an interesting part of the the history of “El fin del mundo”.

Photos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kk5JVErSmoI
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Old Dec 18th, 2010, 06:26 AM
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MARITIME MUSEUM

At the west end of El Centro, just a few blocks up from Avenida San Martin you will find the Maritime Museum of Ushuaia. The museum is located on the boundary of the Naval Station in Ushuaia. For a AR$60 (US$15) entrance fee you can spend a few hours exploring the history of the area and learning a bit about Antarctica.

At first, the fee seems a bit steep but it is valid for a 48 hour period. Finding out that the museum does not receive any government support makes me feel a little better about departing with my dollars.

The museum occupies two floors on what was formerly a military prison. Entering the museum there are models of the many ships that have navigated the area since it's earlier recorded history. Ferdinand Magellan's, Trinidad (1520) and many others. Magellan was the first European who sighted the land here and called it “Tierra de los Fuegos”, The Land Of Fire.

Here, I also learn about the Yamana's the original Ushuaia settlers. The Yamana's specialized in making canoes from the bark of large trees which they removed in a delicate process. Using these canoes in search of food, the Yamanas followed the seal population to this area. When the Europeans first arrive here there were over 4,000 Yamana's, today only 1 one pure female Yamana remains.

Besides local history there are also other interesting exhibits about Antarctica and marine activity in the area. The museum houses a replica of the original “El Fin del Mundo” lighthouse which is quite different than I expected a lighthouse to be. Originally situated on an island far southeast of here, sailors often complained about it's ineffectiveness in helping them navigate the area. The sailor's case is further made buy the numerous ship wrecks that have occurred in the treacherous waters surrounding the lighthouse. Apparently, it's beacon was less visible than stated.

The lighthouse was destroyed in a storm and never replaced. Now, a “Tourist Lighthouse” has been constructed in Beagle Canal and it is known as “The End Of The World” lighthouse.

Learning more about the area at the museum becomes a nice way to spend a few hours in Ushuaia. The US$15 admission fee becomes worth it to me, after all. Dollars well spent.

Photos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENplpoqtyS0
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Old Dec 19th, 2010, 06:40 AM
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THE BEAGLE CANAL

It is 2:45pm and a small group is gathering just outside of el Puerto Ushuaia. As the numbers grow, I begin to see a few people I recognize from earlier in the day. Soon there is about fourteen of us signing documents outside of Navegacion Canal Beagle clearing the way for us to begin an afternoon tour.

Having earlier randomly chosen Navegacion Canal Beagle from the numerous other tour operators along the waterfront, I am pleasantly surprised by the amount of people that have shown up. When I first signed up about 3 hours ago there were only about four people on the list for the tour. This initially had caused me concern that the tour maybe canceled. While I would have other options, I was attracted to Navegacion because of the limited number of passengers that would be on board their boats. Only a maximum of only twelve passengers per boat.

Our numbers have reached 14 and the crew begins to do some calculations. My name is called, “Don” and I am separated with a group of just four other passengers. Interestingly, the day before I sat behind two of the passengers on my flight from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia.

In about twenty minutes five of us are on the “Yate Tango” maneuvering away from the dock with a crew of two. The waters are a bit chopped but we are already excited because their have been reports of whale sightings in the harbor.

We are no more than ten minutes into the tour when a column of water sprays into the air. This elevates the excitement on board. The AR$186 (US$45) cost of the tour has already been worth it. The ocean sprays the side of the boat as it accelerates to the area of the vertical momentary waterfall. We then drift silently hoping for another sighting, looking in all directions with our cameras ready.

A huge white form cap appear to the right side of the boat then something dark gray in color rises to the surface and then becomes more defined as hump. A v-shaped points skyward then disappears. Smiles and excitement remains just a bit longer as the whale descends to depths that we would never know. These magnificent mammals can remain submerged up to 45 minutes. We have been fortunate to sight one this afternoon.

Our next stop is at Faro Les Eclaireurs, the new “End Of The World Lighthouse”. This area of the Beagle Canal has a dismal history of ship wrecks and scanning the area the reason can be easily seen in daylight. Numerous rocks peak just above the surface but no doubt dissappear when the tide rises. Waiting to claim the uninitated that navigate the area without due diligence or proper equipment and guidance.

Just to the south of the lighthouse a small colony of birds can be seen nesting on another small island before we leave the area for nearby Isla de los Lobos. Sea Lion Island.


Photos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfChvM_5eQM
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Old Dec 21st, 2010, 12:13 AM
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SEA LION AND BIRD ISLAND


As a part of tour of Beagle Canal we make a “figuratively speaking” stop at Sea Lion and Bird Island. Using his well practiced skills, our Captain maneuvers the “Yate Tango” within mere feet of the rocky slope of the islands.

This allows us to get great views of the colonies of sea lions basking in the sun. Here, a huge alpha male watches over his harem while rejected males and females form small communities of their own.

In one area of the rocky slopes fresh blood stains show evidence of a recent confrontation.

On Bird Island several different species of birds are gathered, enjoying the great outdoors on a pleasant afternoon. We are told that there are some birds present that migrate over 800 miles to Antarctica from here, non-stop. Nature and it's ecosystem can be so fascinating, almost to the point of a Ripley's believe or not moment.

With a pair of binoculars we can spot some nesting birds while others walk around the colony as if shopping in a mall. They are oblivious to our presence and it makes them more interesting to watch. Just birds, doing what birds do best, being birds.

I am glad this place is for the birds.


Slideshow:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EQxmL7bkYQ
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Old Dec 21st, 2010, 07:50 AM
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I'm following your meanderings with deep envy. Thanks for sharing. We were in Ushuaia 2 years ago, alas on a huge cruise ship.
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Old Dec 21st, 2010, 12:05 PM
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Treesa,

Did you get to spend much time in Ushuaia? I almost took a regular cruise ship out of BA to explore this part of the world but opted for a trip straight to Antarctica from Ushuaia. I am glad I did.

Lots more meanderings to come, hope my sharing brings back some great memories for you
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Old Dec 21st, 2010, 06:49 PM
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BRIDGE ISLAND

Continuing my tour of Beagle Canal, a natural sheltered waterway that connects the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, we make a stop on Bridge Island. Docking we are joined by our sister tour ship, Yate Che.

Since we are no longer on the boats that are limited to twelve passengers, I am under the impression that we will be doing a group activity as others have gathered near a rocky beachfront. A humorous gentle scolding and I am pulled back into my original fold. Each group will take turns hiking to a vista point that will give us 360 degree views of the area.

The weather although a bit windy is so beautiful that we are looking forward to it. During our climb we are given good lessons about the vegetation and plant life on the island. At a “calafate” plant we are told that it is a fruit one must try but at the right time. Locals use it in all types of foods including ice cream. Legend has it that if you eat “calafate” you will always come back to Patagonia. However, you must choose the right time to eat it. At the wrong time of the year you will just come back to the bathroom!

One piece of the landscape that looks like a rock covered with moss is actually a plant. When rubbed it almost smells like Pine-sol.

Next, we get a comical history lesson about “Yamana Viagra”. A plant with let's just say flowers with an interesting shape that when touched drips with a sap as sweet as honey. Minutes later and we are sampling wild berries that are like miniature tart apples. In a matter of a few feet we have sampled nature's No. 19, Sweet & Sour but without broccoli.

The short hiking here is amazing not only for the view but the interesting footing beneath us. The path has a spongy carpet feel to it and I wonder aloud the reason for it. It seems the ground here stays relatively cold which affects the decomposition of tree and plant life. The roots only partially decomposed and never becomes compacted soil. Picking up a layer of top soil it crumbles in my hand and blows away in the wind.

With the view that I am enjoying from the top of Bridge Island combined with my earlier whale sightings this tour has now been twice, if not more worth the money. I am not sure if other tours offer similar outings but Navegacion Canal Beagle earns a 5 Star recommendation.

Photos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NN6qzHUsSfM
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