Trip Report - Peru - Long

Old May 22nd, 2015, 12:24 PM
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Trip Report - Peru - Long

We’ve travelled a fair amount and Peru had been on our radar for some time. Last year (2014) we visited Ecuador and really enjoyed it. I hoped that Peru would more of the same, but different as well. Plus we had heard of the fabulous food in Peru and we were eager to enjoy the Lima culinary scene. (Good food is always one of the appeals of a destination.) We were using frequent flyer plans so I booked way back in June or July of 2014 for late April 2015. I don’t think I’ve ever had so much time to plan a trip! When I booked the flights, I was working full time and our CAD was almost at par with the USD. By the time the trip finally happened, I had gone to a 3 day work week (my choice – I’m easing into retirement) and our dollar had taken a bit of a nosedive.

We’re fairly independent travelers, and part of the enjoyment for me is planning the trip. There was no question about whether or not we’d do the Inca Trail – neither of us was interested. After playing around with a few different itineraries, we ended up doing something fairly typical – Sacred Valley, Cusco and Lima. There would be plenty to keep us occupied without trekking for 4 days. I’ve often said that we’re also fairly ‘lazy’ travelers. We don’t see anything wrong with sitting in the sunshine with a good book and a glass of something cold.

I always plan on writing a trip report so I started off keeping fairly good notes. I didn’t bring my netbook, but I had my Samsung Note and found it was great for taking notes. Unfortunately we got terrible news from my family back in Canada just as we were leaving Cusco, so my notes in Lima were fairly limited. My father (age 92) passed away very suddenly. He had a serious fall, but the prognosis was very good. He was independent, lived on his own in his own home and doctors were optimistic. He had broken his neck, but there was no paralysis. His heart rate was slow, but they talked about giving him a pacemaker. My Dad was in good spirits, and my family didn’t think we needed to come home early. Sadly, after a couple of good days, his condition deteriorated rapidly. We changed our flights to come home early, but he passed away before we could get there. It was a very sad end to our trip, and we still don’t believe this has happened. My father was the best man I’ve ever known, and we miss him terribly, but we’re also thankful that he didn’t suffer.

Anyway, here goes.

Arrival in Peru

Our Air Canada flight was due to arrive in Lima at 12:30 AM, and I debated whether we should just sit up all night and catch an early flight out or book a hotel. I finally decided that sitting up in the airport wasn’t going to work for us (we’re in our mid-60’s and enjoy our sleep too much for that). We booked Kike’s B&B (http://www.lima1night.com/) which turned out to be a wonderful decision. It was $65 USD for the night. Kike picked us up at the airport at 1 AM, drove us to his house and drove us back to the airport the next morning. I’d highly recommend this place if you need an inexpensive place to spend the night in Lima. The neighbourhood isn’t an area where you’d necessarily want to spend more than a night, but the house is clean and they serve a good breakfast. Miriam (Kike’s wife) is delightful and spent a lot of time talking with us in Spanish over breakfast. Best mango ever with apple and banana nice fresh rolls and a fried egg with avocado (called palta in Peru) plus yogurt. The only disappointment was instant coffee.

We had a 2:30 flight to Cusco and Kike dropped us off at the airport. We wandered around looking for a place for lunch, and were so glad we didn't sleep there although it is a nice modern airport. We had a sandwich and lemonade at an airport restaurant for 60 soles for the 2 of us. (There are about 3 soles to the USD.) Our flight on Avianca was an easy 60 minutes or so.
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Old May 22nd, 2015, 12:26 PM
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Huaracondo
In Cusco, we were met by Lyle Walker, who (along with his wife Lily) is the owner of Gringo Wasi B&B (http://www.gringowasibnb.com/) in Huaracondo. The town is a traditional Peruvian village with animals and adobe structures. Apart from Lyle, we were the only non-Peruvians in town. The altitude is about the same as Cusco so the air is thin and my chest hurt a bit at first. (I ended up drinking a lot of coca tea.) It’s definitely an interesting and cool spot for a few days! We had a huge room, with a nice bathroom.

Breakfast at Gringo Wasi consisted of cheese, toast, coffee, coca tea, eggs, fruit, basically whatever we wanted. Lyle does the cooking and on our second morning, we had a delicious peach salsa with our eggs.

We also had dinner both nights with Lyle and Lily. Food is traditional Peruvian and a great deal at only $4 a person. On our first night, we had crisp potato croquettes filled with meat and raisins, along with rice and salsa criollo which I love. For dessert we had a nice pudding that Lyle had made. The second night, we had a dish with meat, vegetables, rice and so on. Delicious, especially with a Gaston Acurio sauce served with it. Dessert was Lyle’s mango cobbler – yum!

Our only other meal in Huarocondo was lunch in the main square. Lyle recommended the lechon served by women who set up tables around the square. Lechon with crisp skin, bun and sweet maize in a tamal – absolutely delicious, and more meat and tamal than I could eat. Plus an Inka cola. For the 2 of us, lunch came to 34 soles. (Lyle said that Huarocondo is not a good town to be a pig.)

In terms of activities, we were the only tourists in town, so that’s a unique experience. We went for a walk around town and we also hauled our way up along a path that took us over the town. We passed fences made of neatly arranged stones and saw corn fields (seems to be the crop here). Earlier we had seen flocks of sheep and goats as well as cattle that were going through town. They can't cut across the square but apart from that they definitely make the town their own.

I’d highly recommend Gringo Wasi. The rate for our room was $40 USD/night, so very reasonable. It’s not in Cusco, so it’s a lovely calm environment in which to relax and unwind. Lyle and Lily are charming. They can offer lots of advice, they’re good company and their home is lovely. We were really happy to start off our trip with them. Plus we ended up hiring Lyle for a couple of tours, and that really enhanced our trip.

Travelling to Ollantaytambo

We had arranged with Lyle to drive us to our next stop of Ollantaytambo. We left around 9 AM and our first stop was Chinchero where we watched the women demonstrate the natural dyes and weaving. I love textiles so of course I bought a runner (200 soles – not sure where it’s going to go in my house yet – I may hang it) and John bought a jacket for 160 soles. (John, btw, was cold all the time, guess it is the altitude). I thought that the products were very nice. The site itself is worthwhile, and we bought the full Boleto Turistico (about $42 USD, I believe – cash only) there since we’d be using it over the next few days. We then went to the Maras Salt beds, which are really interesting and I hadn’t seen anything quite like them before. They aren’t included in the boleto, and I think the entrance was an additional $10 USD or so, but I thought that it was worth it. We had lunch at the restaurant there, and it was surprisingly good. Delicious veggie sandwich for me (filled with eggplant, zucchini and so on – I was impressed) and limonada with mint. John had a chicken and apple sandwich with the chicha morada. Price was surprisingly low (30 soles for the 2 of us) considering that it is a tourist restaurant and the only one around there. We also bought some seasoned salts and a bar of artisanal chocolate flavoured with salt. (It was quite salty and I think it would be great with a brandy after a nice meal.) Our final stop was Moray. I have problems with my knees, so by this point in the day, I left the walking to John and Lyle. I sat and enjoyed the site from a bench. Lyle got us to Ollantaytambo and even walked us up to our hotel (which wasn’t accessible by road). It was a very enjoyable day.
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Old May 22nd, 2015, 12:28 PM
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Ollantaytambo

In Ollantaytambo, we stayed 3 nights at the Hostal Iskay (http://www.iskaygroup.com/hostal_isk...antaytambo/en/). So charming! We had a really nice bright room, with a wonderful view of the ruins from the window in our room. We also had a little terrace area in their lovely garden. It was super quiet, even with the renovations they were doing on the other side of the lobby. I had corresponded with Sabrina previously and she’s an absolute sweetheart. She was so apologetic about the renovations.
Breakfast at the Hostal Iskay is actually provided by the restaurant next door. It’s buffet style, and I thought that it was generally pretty good – selection of scrambled eggs, rolls, cereal, fruit, yogurt, etc. The coffee was weird though – extremely strong, no matter how much water you added. I think our room rate was about 180 soles / night, which was for one of their upgraded rooms.

We really enjoyed Ollantaytambo and I was so glad we had planned on 3 nights. The town itself is filled with narrow little streets where cars can’t go, although there’s a very busy square with lots of vehicle traffic. Watching the tour buses and long distance buses leave town was quite the experience – talk about traffic jams! There are 2 ATMs in town, lots of restaurants, and of course the ruins, which are pretty spectacular.

In terms of restaurants, we had excellent coffee and desserts a couple of times at La Esquina on the square. We really liked this little restaurant. They have a couple of tables on the sidewalk and the owner was very nice. In terms of prices, we paid 19 soles for 2 lattes and a brownie big enough for 4 (it had plum in it, so maybe it wasn’t technically a brownie) on one of our stops there. Another time we had lunch there - tuna melt and beer for me and grilled veggie sandwich for John. That lunch came to 40 soles, and was more food than I needed.

Another restaurant that we liked was Piccolo Forno which is a tiny restaurant owned by an Italian. The pizza was fabulous and the pastas looked pretty good as well. I had a beer and John had something non-alcoholic. We also bought a bag of sugar cookies to bring back to our room. The bill came to 60 soles. He doesn’t take credit cards, but the bill only came to 60 soles (which was good as my husband had forgotten his wallet and I didn’t have much cash on me).

Our last night in Ollantaytambo, we planned to eat at Uchucutu but they were full at 7 when we dropped by so we made a reservation for 8. It was still busy when we got back there, so we sat down and I ordered a pisco sour while we waited. John ordered the alpaca which came highly recommended and I ordered the trout. Since they didn't have the large trout to roll, it was a fillet grilled with loads of good veg and rice. John’s meal came with the same veg and quinoa. I also had a glass of wine while he had the chicha morada. Both meals were huge portions and delicious, all for 105 soles. The owner was very sweet and offered us 10% off the bill because we had to wait. (We told him no worries, we didn’t expect a discount.)

We had dinner at Heart Café our first night where I ordered a bottle of water and delicious lentil soup. John had the menu del dia of soup, chicken with rice and potatoes and another brownie (much smaller) and lemonade. All the food came to 38 soles, which is very good as they are a charitable organization that provides help to children and women.

Regarding activities, most tourists are in Ollantaytambo to go to Machu Picchu. We had booked a trip to Machu Picchu for our first full day, and we had ordered a box lunch through Sabrina. Unfortunately no one was at the front desk in the morning and the restaurant didn't know what we were talking about. (Sabrina told us later that the lunches were behind the counter.) We finally ran off (without our lunch and after I decided to take a bathroom break), and realizing that we didn’t have time to walk to the train station, we grabbed a cab. It turned into a mad rush to get to the train and that was partly my fault. Our train (Inka Rail) leaves at 7:20, not 7:30 like I thought. We almost missed the train and had to run like crazy people down the platform. After that, it definitely got better. The scenery from the train was gorgeous. When we got to Aguas Calientes, we bought a couple of empanadas and water to take up to MP with us. (To be honest, I don’t see the need for a box lunch – take-out food was not expensive in Aguas Calientes.) Like everyone else, we took the bus up to the site and hired a guide for 150 soles. I suppose we could have looked for more people to share in the cost, but with my *bad* knee, I wanted to be able to go at my own pace. The guide was really a nice guy, his English was excellent and we got much more out of it than we would have on our own. After our guide left us, I parked myself on a bench near the entrance and John decided to hike up to the guard house. As it turned out, he went all the way to the Sun Gate which he said was wonderful. We caught our train back (plenty of time) and spent the trip chatting with a lovely young couple from Colorado named Bo and Sarah.

I have really mixed feelings about Machu Picchu. The setting is absolutely amazing, incredibly beautiful, but there are so many people who want to see it!! I realize you can get away from the crowds (John did just that when he went to the Sun Gate) but the site overall attracts so many people. It’s an expensive day – I figure we spent about $550 CAD for the 2 of us – that included the train, bus, entrance ticket and guide. That’s a lot for one day, but I can’t imagine going to that part of Peru and not seeing Machu Picchu.

We could see the Ollantaytambo ruins from our hotel room, and we spent a few hours there the day after we visited MP. They are really amazing. There were hardly any people there at the time, and that definitely enhanced the experience for me.

We also spent time wandering around the town and also sitting on our little terrace in the garden at the Hostal Iskay. It was a perfect spot for reading and enjoying the fabulous view and the sunshine.

We didn’t do any shopping there, although there is a market. We did take “una foto” of 2 little girls in traditional dress for a few soles. They are probably little scam artists but I love the clothes. I had hoped to buy one of the headdresses, but didn’t come across any for sale.

Travelling to Cusco

Our time in Ollantaytambo over, we met Lyle again, and set off for a full day of activities. We first visited the Inkariy Museum, which is an amazing private museum that covers the history of Peru and all of its cultures. It’s not included in the boleto and I can’t remember what it cost, but it’s definitely worth the stop. Next up was a small site (can’t remember the name) with some interesting ruins. There was a flower garden next to it on one side and corn drying on ground on the other side. Then we went to Pisaq and visited those ruins. After walking for a while, I sat on another bench, while John and Lyle went much further. The views are amazing. We had lunch at a cute little place in town that’s close to the market. I had a really good caprese sandwich and John had one with mushrooms. Both came with delicious fries. With a drink and chicha morada, our lunch came to 30 soles for the 2 of us. The restaurant has huge windows and overlooks a beautiful large garden. Unfortunately I can’t remember the name of the restaurant. After lunch, we went to the Ccochahuasi Animal Sanctuary which was pretty cool – condors, llamas, vicuna and other animals, which I really enjoyed seeing.
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Old May 22nd, 2015, 12:30 PM
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Cusco

In Cusco, we were booked into a small B&B run by Denis Poitras, a French Canadian (https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/1942684). We said goodbye to Lyle (who had provided us with another fabulous day) and we met Denis at the bottom of a large stairway. Denis helped us get our bags up to his home – lots of stairs but the view is amazing. The room was lovely – huge, comfortable bed, fabulous view and well equipped. Denis delivers breakfast to your room. You tell him the night before what you want and what time. Choices are great – omelettes, eggs any other style, fruit salad, rolls, jam, cereal, basically anything you would need or want. Rate was about $90 / night CAD for the 2 of us.

Cusco is loaded with good restaurants, and Denis provided a comprehensive list of suggestions. Our first night, we went to Pachapapa which is on San Blas square, close to the B&B. We were able to get a table on the patio, the setting was lovely and the food was excellent. John had the lomo saltaldo served with perfect rice and potatoes. I had pork with delicious potatoes and a cheese and tomato salad. Lots of food. I also had an amazing unusual peppery cocktail and a glass of wine while John had lemonade. The bill came to 141 soles.

Another recommended restaurant is Greens Organic. Our lunch there was fabulous. I had the trout tartare and John had an excellent salad with goat cheese, candied nuts, lettuces and other veggies. We were both thrilled with our choices. I think we may have had the frozen limonada to drink. The décor in the restaurant is lovely, with interesting recycled bottles turned into light fixtures. The bill came to 80 soles so it’s not inexpensive, but the quality of the food is excellent and I’d definitely recommend it.

Bodega 138 has very good pizzas and big salads. They did ½ the pizza with one set of toppings and the other ½ with another set of toppings. I had an artisanal beer (made with the purple corn!), while John had the chicha morada. They also serve good garlic bread and a couple of sauces and a dish of olives. I can’t exactly remember the price, but I think it was around $30 USD. (They don’t take credit cards.)

We had a very nice lunch at Café Moreno Peruvian Kitchen. I had the best pisco sour while waiting for a table and their frozen limonada is excellent. I ordered the anticuchos (chicken and beef) with potatoes and yellow sauce and big corn. John ordered chaufa which is a take on Chinese fried rice with quinoa. Very delicious and huge servings. I was glad that John has a big appetite and ate a couple of my skewers. The bill came to 94 soles for a huge meal. We were tempted to order the sweet potato donuts for a dessert, but the table next to us (a group of Swedes who of course spoke perfect English) got the last order. They very kindly gave us a taste.

There’s a nice little crepe place called La Boheme not far from our B&B. We ended up there for dinner one night. John had one with a cream sauce, ham, cheese and asparagus. Mine had blue cheese, fresh cheese, walnuts and lots of fresh greens. For dessert we had their fabulous salted caramel crepe with ice cream. I had mineral water and John had their drink of the day. Bill came to under 50 soles.

We also had dinner at Cuse Smokehouse, also in the San Blas area. Food was great – I had the smoked chicken and fries and John had a burger with pulled pork (talk about decadent!). It’s casual, fun vibe and we really enjoyed it. I can’t remember what we paid, but it was not a lot.

In terms of activities, we definitely didn’t do everything that we thought we would do. We wandered around town and visited a few museums included in our Boleto Turistico. We also checked out the Museo Maximo Laura (not part of the boleto) which had amazing tapestries. Fortunately we don't have the wall space for any of his works, if we could even afford them. (Even a cushion cover was more than I wanted to spend.) Also Edilberto Merida’s museum – he created clay figures with really large hands – very interesting primitive looking work. I really started to have problems with my knee and I finally stopped at a pharmacy and got some heavy duty anti-inflammatory medicine – that seemed to work just fine, although I think it may have contributed to a bit of an upset stomach. (Mind you, I also found the altitude really difficult to take, and that didn’t help much.) We thought that we might get to Sacsayhuaman, but didn’t make it.

Denis knows a great massage therapist so both John and I booked massages one afternoon. The therapist comes to his place, so it was extremely relaxing! I lounged on the terrace after my massage while John had his. Definitely worthwhile.

Cusco has some great shopping. I bought a gorgeous short aubergine coloured coat / sweater (alpaca and wool mix – I assume that’s sheep’s wool.) at Anntarah, which has some fabulous contemporary clothing. Since we were going carry on, I couldn’t fit it in my suitcase and had to either wear it or carry it on flights. I’ve already mentioned my love of textiles and I bought a vintage huipil at L’atelier in San Blas. I had to restrain myself from shopping more – lots of nice thing to buy.

Overall, we really enjoyed Cusco. The historic part of the city is lovely. There are definitely more than enough good restaurants and plenty of opportunities for shopping. We had fabulous views from our B&B. We did find the altitude tough to take though. (I’ve pretty much decided that I won’t go to Bolivia, which had been on my list of places to see.) I never felt like I could get a deep enough breath. John found the weather much colder than he had expected, especially at night. There are a lot of hills, a lot of steps.

On the other hand, we had booked 5 nights in Cusco and I could have easily spent a few more days without getting bored!
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Old May 22nd, 2015, 12:32 PM
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Lima

Friday, we packed up and got ready to fly out to Cusco. Before leaving for the airport, I got a text from my sister to tell me that Dad had fallen. We immediately went into planning mode – should we stay, should we fly home, and that definitely affected our experience in Lima, although we knew that my father would have wanted us to stay and enjoy ourselves.

In Lima, we had booked an apartment on the border of MIraflores and Barranco (https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/2073411). Maria, the owner, was out of town on business when we arrived, but we had asked her to book us a taxi from the airport and she had booked her friend Mario to pick us up at the airport. Mario’s wife was in the apartment when we arrived to show us around. The apartment is very nice – clean, well equipped, modern and so on. It is next to a very busy street, but honestly I didn’t really hear much noise at night. The rate was about $75 CAD / night.

We had booked 4 nights in Lima and ended up staying 3. Our main focus were the restaurants (big surprise, eh?). We had booked 2 high end restaurants – IK for dinner and Maido for lunch, plus I had done a lot of research on other restaurants. Too many choices with too little time!

Getting to IK was a bit of a challenge. We had to call a taxi from our apartment. We know a little Spanish (we’re taking lessons here in Toronto), but ordering a cab on the phone was definitely a challenge. John doesn’t drink but by the time he got through that call, I think he wished he did. At any rate, a taxi arrived and we got to the restaurant just fine. The meal was superb. Everything from the amuse bouche to the complimentary sweets at the end were incredible. We shared the Amazonian ceviche (served warm, which was interesting), ordered 2 mains (John’s was an interesting fish dish and I had the duck and quinoa) and 2 desserts. The desserts were amazing. Mine was a take on a pisco sour in a chocolate egg. John had the lucuma enterrada (described by someone as cheesecake buried in a mound of dark chocolate powder with ice cream shaped to resemble lucuma seeds). John was drinking mineral water and I had a couple of cocktails and a glass of wine. Service was excellent. (I had read a review in which someone complained that few of the staff spoke English – that wasn’t our experience. Plus you’re in Peru – it’s a Spanish speaking country!) Price came to about 500 soles, which included a generous tip. A similar meal in Toronto would easily have been at least 50% more.

We almost didn’t get to Maido. I thought that I had booked it for Sunday 1:30 and that morning I realized that our reservation was for Tuesday 1:30. Since we had already moved our flight up, I sent an email to cancel. Since we had a late flight out on Monday, we had decided to go to Cebicheria La Mar (which doesn’t take reservations). Walking over there, we happened to come across Maido. When I pointed it out to John, a very elegant young woman asked us if we were eating there. She was waiting for a friend to join her. We explained that we didn’t have a reservation and we were leaving that evening. The restaurant wasn’t yet open, but she called over someone and asked if they could fit us in for lunch. We were so glad we stopped and chatted with her!

The meal was fantastic. Again a wonderful amuse bouche, sashimi, salmon nigiri, Nikkei ceviche, their “amazing scallops”, a couple of wonderful rolls, it went on and on. We ordered the ‘dessert tasting’ which was 3 desserts, including fabulous churros. We had mineral water with our meal and espresso with our dessert. I loved all of the dishes. The bill was 352 soles and totally worth it.

Our first night, however, we hadn’t made any plans. We walked over to Larcomar (lovely mall) and had dinner at Popular. After the bad news we got that morning, I didn’t have much of an appetite. I remember we ordered a ceviche that was quite good, but I honestly don’t remember what else we had. The bill came to 135 soles, so we obviously had something else!

Another meal was at Papacho’s – Gaston Acurio’s hamburger restaurant. Servings are enormous (way more than I could eat) and the burgers were pretty good. I think we must have paid cash as I can’t remember what it cost but I don’t think it was expensive. It seems to be a popular place with locals.

On Sunday we wandered over to Parque Kennedy and had lunch at La Lucha. The sandwiches and fries are huge and delicious and inexpensive. An added bonus were all the cats in the park. Seeing all those cats made me feel better (and I was definitely missing my own 2 at home).

We also spent a few hours exploring Barranco. We didn’t have any set itinerary, just wandering. Later, of course, I realized that there were places I wanted to visit, but didn’t think of at the time. One shop that impressed us was Dedalo – lots of high quality merchandise. (Again I had to remember that I was travelling carry on.) I saw the same felt pins that I’ve bought here in Toronto at a store owned by a Peruvian woman.

I honestly could have spent more time in Lima, for example, we never did get to the historic centre of Lima. We also didn’t get to the Museo Larco which I intended to visit. Plus there were all those restaurants to try…..

However, I also wanted to be back in Canada with my family. After our meal at Maido, we ended up at Mango in Larcomar. They have a nice patio area outside – we drank frozen lemonades and some other frozen alcoholic drink that was delicious. We walked back to the apartment along the waterfront (there are some fabulous looking apartments overlooking the water) and packed up. We had arranged with Mario to take us back to the airport (traffic is crazy in Lima! I will never complain about Toronto again!) and we made our way back to Canada.

We flew Lima to Toronto, then on to Edmonton and finally Abbotsford, BC. After a few days, we flew back to our home in Toronto. Peru seems like a long time ago, and we’ve been through a lot in the last 2 weeks. There is a lot to see and do in Peru (we certainly didn’t do all that we wanted to do) and we really enjoyed our time there. We found it more expensive than Ecuador (which we loved), but honestly the culinary scene in Peru is wonderful. There’s so much history there as well. Given that there are direct flights from Toronto to Lima, maybe we’ll go back sometime and see another part of the country.
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Old May 22nd, 2015, 03:51 PM
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Terrific report, thank you
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Old May 22nd, 2015, 07:00 PM
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So sorry about the sad end to your trip, SusaninToronto.

If you manage to return to Peru there is so much more to see. Ayacucho would suit you, textile lovers heaven and much less expensive. But fly there, no bus ride.

G!ad to hear Kike and Miriam are still excellent hosts.Hope the local alarm clock didnt crow you awake.

I need to see your Ecuador report for food recs.
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Old May 22nd, 2015, 08:17 PM
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Glad to hear you had a fantastic trip - sorry about the sad end though. We will be doing something similar in January 2016 so have enjoyed reading your detailed report and making some notes!
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Old May 23rd, 2015, 01:50 AM
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Great report SusaninToronto. Lots of great detail which I will be noting for our next trip. Sorry to hear of your family problems.
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Old May 23rd, 2015, 09:52 AM
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Lots of great information in your report Susan. But so sorry about your dad.
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Old May 23rd, 2015, 12:36 PM
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Thanks very much, everyone.
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Old May 26th, 2015, 08:52 AM
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Sounds like a great trip, Susan. I love the sound of the b and bs you chose.
You really did the restaurant scene justice! Quinoa salads were my fav food in Peru. Need to go back and do some more upscale places.

I'm so sorry about your Dad, but glad he had such a long and healthy life.
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