Hanging out with you! Looking forward to more!

Buen viaje!

Sounds like a great trip...looking forward to reading about it.

Wow! To be walking on the wave-tiled sidewalk, looking at the sand sculptures, and the mountains rising out of the sea....tomorrow morning. Lucky you. Enjoy. It's a wonderful city. Too bad you won't be seeing more of this gorgeous country and its true treasure, its warm people. Rio is only the tiniest start to exploring Brazil.

Yes, I know I'm seriously shortchanging Brazil, but even on an eight week trip, I have to cut things.

Have a fantastic trip Thurdaysd. Looking forward to reading a lot more about it.

Oct 16-17, 2012: An I Hate To Fly Day

Anyone who travels as much as I've been doing has some bad days. Even some really bad days. Seems to me those days often involve flights. When people ask me why my trips are so long, I usually reply that I find flying such a pain these days I need to get in a lot of travel per flight. I hope the next eight weeks will make up for the twenty-seven hours it took to get from my house to my hotel.

Things started out well. I don't remember now why I signed up for an eight hour layover in Miami, but I imagine the alternatives were either worse or noticeably more expensive. Having done so, I decided to spend some of the savings on a day pass for the Admirals Club, and I waited for my RDU-MIA flight in lonely state. That flight, although packed, was only slightly late, and I was in no hurry. Terminal D at MIA has two Admirals Clubs and I visited both. I can advise future travelers to go for the one at gate D30 - it's bigger and roomier, and therefore quieter, than the one at gate D15.

Although I took full advantage of the Admirals Club's comfortable chairs, so-so food and wine, and free wi-fi (I could have listened to the Presidential debate but I chose a podcast on South America instead), I was more than ready to board my 11:20 flight when I went down to the gate. Only there was no plane.

We finally boarded maybe an hour late. Then we sat at the gate waiting for the service log to be delivered and for a mechanic to fix a problem with an overhead compartment (he got a round of applause when he handled the problem in less than a minute). As we approached the take-off point it looked like we would leave "just" two hours late. No such luck. 

The captain announced that he had an indicator light on. We would have to return to the gate and call in another mechanic. Now I wasn't happy about the further delay, but I was flabbergasted by the behavior of some of my fellow passengers. A whole group retrieved their (large) carryons and headed for the front of the plane. I'm not sure how they expected to disembark without a jetway, but they were stopped by an announcement that they might have to wait days for another flight, and there would be no hotel vouchers. I was indebted to my seat mate for that information, as the announcement was only in Portuguese (this made more sense later, at Brazilian immigration, when almost the entire flight turned out to be citizens).

We eventually took off three hours and fifteen minutes late, at 2:35 Miami time. We ate dinner at 3:30 am. I surprised myself by getting some actual sleep, although in fits and starts, and we made up some of the time, landing just a couple of hours late. I suppose that any time I arrive in the correct city, on the correct day, along with my checked bag, I should be pleased, but I was too tired.

Then, before locating the bus to town, I had to go on a treasure hunt. One would think that in an international airport, the ATMs would be on the arrivals level. Perhaps the bureaux de change had something to say about that. There was no one at the Tourist Information desk, and no ATMs. There were none on the departure level, although there was a helpful person at a T.I. desk. I finally found a line of ATMs belonging to three different banks next to the food court on the top level. The HSBC one didn't work. The Santander one didn't work. Happily, the third one I tried did work, with both my Capital One and Credit Union cards, and disgorged enough cash to pay my hotel bill. Persistence pays.

Although I've been writing "my hotel", the Edificio Jucati is really an apartment building. Although my apartment is spartan almost to the point of bleak, it includes a fridge, a stove, a TV, a telephone, AC, and free wifi, plus the first shower I've encountered with a remote control! It's also rather more of a trek from Av. Atlantica than I had thought from the maps. Maybe I'll spring for a taxi on Sunday when I go back to the airport.

After I finally checked in at 14:30 local time, the first thing I did was shower. Then I had to wait around, twice, for someone to come fix my safe. By the time I headed out in search of lunch and the beach, eating was urgent and my mood could have been better.

Note: If you used an ATM at the airport in Rio, please check your statements carefully from this time forward. There have been many problems reported online with cloning on those machines.

Not a great start but things can only get better. The behaviour of some airline passenger never fails to both amaze and disappoint me!

Vida - you know, between the reports of scams, and the reports of muggings, it does seem that Rio has a lot of work to do before 2016!

That said, American guide books sound a lot more paranoid than the British Foregon Office. Maybe things have improved since they were published. My hotel said that it was OK for me to walk back at night now, but it wouldn't have been three years ago. So far I have felt fine, but my regular travel clothes are "dress down" and I am in hyper vigilant mode, with an arm or a leg through the strap of my bag in cafes and restaurants.

BTW, the books said you should carry your stuff in a plastic shopping bag, and that back packs marked you as a tourist. Not my experience. There seem to be plenty of people with back packs - admittedly younger than I am, but most people are younger than I am - and the only people with shopping bags seem to have been shopping. Maybe it's different ON the beach, I'm just looking at it.

And, FYI on a different subject, I got an email from AA crediting me with 3,000 FF miles for the "inconvenience".

And you're off! Congratulations. Things can only get better. Will be on your trail. Happy travels.

I'm following along, thursdays!

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/in-pictures-19989037
6 serendipitous minutes of Michael Palin in Brazil!

You might notice that a great many people with backpacks wear them in front, to keep a better eye on them.
Brazilians do things or carry/use things that, even with the recently much touted improvement in crime against tourists in Rio, I would never recommend a newbie tourist try, since they don't have the same developed radar for trouble that a Brazilian does. Every tourist who posts that s/he felt "perfectly safe" in Rio, to me just means they never saw coming the trouble they narrowly averted.
Some advice in the books, such as carrying a camera in a plastic supermarket bag, or to "dress like the locals" are simply going too far to make a point, though, even if the point is valid. However, if plastic is a bit much, that doesn't mean a fancy camera bag won't attract unwanted attention, and that a more modest small backpack carried in front or secured under your arm isn't a better idea.
I don't think much will change before the tourist influx for the games.
Do continue to have a good time, thursdaysd, and continue to post.

Have now survived the metro with a back pack, but for sure worn in front. Weather has been odd - cool and cloudy Wed and today (naturally the day I had booked a tour up Corcovado!) but really hot and sunny yesterday (I headed to the Jardim Botanico for shade). Tomorrow I have booked a tour to Petropolis and I fly to Igauzu Sunday. Will try to get something written this afternoon or tomorrow.

If the safety situation doesn't improve before the games I would think there will be a lot of upset people.

Oct 17-18, 2012: A First Taste of Rio

When I left the Edificio Jucati, in search of a very late lunch, I was too focussed to properly appreciate the park in front of the building. Later, I would notice the black and white wave mosaic on the circling pavement, just like those in Lisbon, albeit dustier and less even, the game court, the children's playground, the chess tables (more used for card games) and the big concrete fountain. I would see other, similar, parks scattered round Copacabana.

Instead, I located the three places recommended by the young woman who had checked me in. One sandwich/hamburger joint and two small buffet places. I am no fan of buffets, but starvation was setting in. Even though Copacabana is surely prime tourist territory, the cafe I picked seemed more of a local place. Unlike the all-you-can-eat buffets helping fuel the obesity epidemic in the US, here I paid by weight. Although the food was  merely edible, it was remarkably cheap. Afterwards I walked down to the beach.

As I have written before, I am not a beach person. I no longer want to sun bathe, but nor do I want to slather on sunscreen. I prefer to swim in a pool, and I hate getting sand everywhere. Happily, Rio's beaches come with promenades - more black and white mosaics - and I could watch the waves and the action without hitting the sand. Actually, there wasn't much action. On a cool, overcast afternoon I saw more dog-walkers than bikini-wearers.

Eventually I picked a kiosk, one with a bigger buffer against traffic noise than some, and ordered a caipirinha. Now I rarely drink cocktails, being a confirmed wine aficionado, but I was surprised to really enjoy this one. I would learn that not all caipirinhas are created equal. The first, at Praia Skol, was great. The second, at Praia Skol 360, was too strong. The third, which I am drinking as I write this, at the J. W. Marriott, is too weak, despite costing about twice as much. (It's even cooler, and windier, this afternoon: I opted to enjoy the drink, and the view, indoors.)

Given the weather the day I arrived, I was surprised to wake up to brilliant sunshine. Brilliant, HOT, sunshine - I could feel the heat through the window. Of course, I should have headed up Corcovado, but access seemed a bit involved and I signed up for a tour the next day. In hopes of shade I set off instead for the Jardim Botanico. I took the metro - clean and easy - two stops to Botafogo, where I switched to "above ground metro bus" (with AC, unlike the regular city buses).

I am fond of botanical gardens, despite having a black, not green, thumb and this one did not disappoint (although the one I saw in Kandy last year was even better, and I have yet to find one to equal Kew) but it didn't take long before I had to break out the umbrella/sunshade. I admired the signature palm avenues, the lakes, the bamboo (always love bamboo) but it seemed too early in the year for orchids and roses.

I had met a helpful local lady outside the garden, and after walking me to the nearest entrance, she recommended a place called Bibi for lunch - very healthy food, she said. So, after taking a look at the pretty Lagao Rodrigo de Freitas, I followed her directions, only to find Bibi to be both very full, and open to the decidedly hot weather. I passed, and eventually tracked down a Frommer's recommendation: the Atelier Culinario, inside a bookshop. The night before I had been disappointed by another Frommer's pick, Arab (the fairly new Babylon, in Raleigh, does infinitely better Middle Eastern food) and again, the food was nothing special, although the ambience was fine and the AC divine. (OK, so I should stick to Fodors!)

Then I did the metro and bus combo in reverse to take a look at Ipanema. Everything I had read said that Ipanema was more upmarket than Copacabana, but I really didn't find it so, aside from a number of newish apartment blocks, barricaded behind metal fences. I visited the Museu Amsterdam Sauer, inside a jewelry shop, as I always enjoy looking at gems and minerals, and had a nice chat with the sales lady (after she realized I wasn't buying).

This night was churrascaria - more than you can eat meat - night, and I abandoned Frommers to follow my hotel's recommendation of Carretao. The result was cheaper, and much better, than Arab. The beef and sausages were excellent. and I discovered a taste for manioc. I even found sushi on the salad bar.

Safety note: After reading the paranoid American guidebooks (the British Foreign Office website was less alarmist), I set out the first day with just a small shoulder bag, with the strap worn across my body. The next morning I went back to my usual small(ish) backpack - I needed my umbrella/sunshade, a water bottle, my camera, one if not two guidebooks, a map, an energy bar.... That lot just won't fit in a small handbag! I did wear it in front on the metro, but I've done that on a number of metros.

"Corcovado, but access seemed a bit involved"
No, it's not. No big deal at all. Cancel the tour.
Take a taxi to the base station in Cosme Velho (neighborhood--All taxi drivers know where to take you if you say Corcovado), but I suppose you could take the local bus (ask for the bus number at hotel). Then at the base station ticket booth you buy a ticket to take the train up the mountain. A samba band boards part way up and serenades you. When you get off, you can see how to make yur way up the escalator to the multi-level platform at the base of the statue. MAke sure to have someone take your picture below the Cristo with your arms outspread as his are.
The alternative is that you can go by road (taxi, tour van) to a parking lot most of the way up the mountain where you switch to the official van (the only vehicle allowed) to the top. But then you miss the train trip which I thought was a lot of fun.

I did the tour today (19th), it included a look at the outside of the new football stadium, ditto Samba Dome, a stop at the modern cathedral, and would have taken me on to the sugar loaf except I got off at Cinelandia. I don't think of taxis for that sort of distance unless I have luggage.

Maybe the timeline wasn't clear. I arrived on the 17th (dinner at Arab), I visited the Jardim Botanico on the 18th (dinner at Carretao), and I wrote the post on the 19th while at the Marriott. Details on the 19th to come.

When will you be in BA, thursdaysd?

If I am able to organize it, would you like to participate in a GTG with other forum members who are arriving to BA next week?

Hi avrooster,

I'm always up for a GTG, but looks like the timing may not work. I'm going to Iguassu and Uruguay on the way to BsAs and don't get there until Oct 29th. I leave for El Calafate on Nov 3rd. I have a greeter scheduled for the mornings of Oct 30 and 31, and a graffitimundo tour the afternoon of Nov 2.

But if you can organize a GTG the week I'm there, I'd definitely be interested. Thanks.

The "forum members who are arriving to BA next week" mentioned in my post will be staying for several weeks, so the timing is no problem at all, unless they have other plans for those days. I'll know for sure when they are here.

If you wish, you can write to me to albertovgalloATyahoo.com telling me how to reach you when you get to BA.

The GTG would be most likely for dinner, as I'm busy during the daytime.

Keep up your great trip report.

BTW, be wary of the cabs waiting OUTSIDE both our local (AEP) and international (EZE) airports.

Only board transportation which can be PREPAID INSIDE the airport, such as http://www.tiendaleon.com.ar/home/home.asp

Many threads on this subject.

The above also applies to all cabs waiting in line outside touristy spots.

See: http://tinyurl.com/8pgbpam

ALWAYS have bills no larger than 20 pesos to pay for cabs.

Many, many threads on this subject.

Hi avrooster, thanks for the warning. However, I will arrive by boat from Colonia, are the taxis at the ferry terminal also a problem? Is there a bus?

I will be staying at the Duque, and I will have a cell phone with a UK number, I will send you an email when I get working wifi (I am using the hotel computer right now).

Yes, the warning also applies to the ferry terminal.

I suggest you ask the Duque hotel to send a car (we call it a "remise") to pick you up at the Buquebus terminal.

It will cost a little more than a simple cab, but, when I'm dealing with solo female travel, I feel safety is the foremost consideration.

Oct 19-20: Touring Around Rio

So, Thursday was sunny and clear, and I booked a tour to Corcovado for the next day. Of course, Friday turned out to be cloudy. Moral: carpe diem. Since I had paid for the tour, I went anyway.

I am really not a fan of tours. I don't like all the waiting around, and I make a poor herd animal, although when I opt for a tour I do try. This one wasn't too bad, we didn't waste too much time collecting the other people, and our tri-lingual guide was good. We had Brazilians, Argentinians, Chileans, one Norwegian and me, quite a mini United Nations. The Norwegian was scouting upcoming World Cup locations, and had just been to Switzerland and Cyprus. 

I had opted to visit Corcovado mostly for the views, having decided against going up sugar loaf as soon as I saw the cable car route (my head for heights is not what it was). So, no views at the top, although we did get some glimpses on the way up (if you're subject to motion sickness take the train) and the clouds cleared long enough for a quick photo of the statue itself.

Then we drove through some of the favelas on the way to the football stadium. I had already seen some on the way in from the airport - the airport bus took the city streets, stopping at the main bus station and the domestic airport, while the taxis take a faster and less gritty route. It seemed that a new stadium was being built, both for the World Cup and the Opening Ceremonies for the Olympics, and looked to be pretty far along. I can't help thinking they would do as well to build a new airport.

We were supposed to walk through the Sambodromo, built for the Carnaval parade, but it was closed. We had a pretty good view from the minibus, and it's hardly exciting when empty. I had thought about attending one of the rehearsals, but they mostly seemed to be on Saturday nights, and I needed to get up early on Sunday.

Next up was the modern cathedral (de Sao Sebastiao), which I thought interesting, but rather brutalist. The St. Mary's cathedral I saw in San Francisco earlier this year was similar in concept - basically a pyramid with stained glass at the cardinal points - but more delicate in execution. After driving by some of the buildings in Centro, the tour would finish at the sugar loaf. Since I didn't want to visit sugar loaf, and I did want a better look at the buildings, I had the guide drop me at Cinelandia.

The National Library and the Municipal Theater were certainly worth a closer look, although I skipped the English language tour of the library in favor of lunch. Walking towards Praca XV de Novembro I found several passageways with cafes and restaurants, mostly buffets. I picked one at random, and had plenty of choice at a very reasonable price. Then I took a look at the rather plain Imperial Palace (not originally imperial), and what Frommers described as a "slice of old Rio", a cobblestoned passageway, now entirely taken over by cafes, before fetching up at the very touristy, but photo-worthy (and much photographed) Cafe Colombo. Espresso and a walnut tartlet cost as much as lunch.

Having done my sightseeing duty for the day I retired to the J. W. Marriott, conveniently close to my hotel, for an expensive caipirinha, a good view, and some writing time. For dinner I abandoned Frommers' restaurant recommendations in favor of Lonely Planet, and ate an excellent duck and brie crepe at Le Ble Noir.

My Saturday tour to Petropolis reminded me, if I needed reminding, why I generally avoid tours. It took an excessively long time to collect all the participants (Brazilian, Argentinian, Chilean and Peruvian), the guide's English wasn't great (nor, I was told, was his Spanish), and he started out grumpy, although he improved later. The lunch stop was an expensive, all-you-can eat, poor buffet, and there was an unnecessary shopping op at a chocolate "factory" (we only saw the shop).

On the good side, I really appreciated the scenery, and the old part of town. I quite enjoyed shuffling round the Imperial Palace ("slippers" are required to protect the floors), appreciating the furnishings, the chandeliers and the imperial crown, although the pictures were pretty bad. After lunch we were supposed to wait around while one couple toured the former house of Santos Dumont (Brazil's claimant to having made the first flight), and then drive to the cathedral. Since I could see the cathedral, past a nice fountain and down a tree-lined avenue, I decided I'd rather walk. The guide was most insistent that I stay with the group, I was more insistent that I was walking. It was a good thing I chose to walk, as there was a series of bridges over a small river on the way, and I got much better photos from them than I would have done at the cathedral itself, plus I got a better look at some interesting buildings. The guide told me he was afraid I would get lost, which seems inconceivable given I could actually see where I was going!

Besides the scenery, the palace, and Petropolis itself, I enjoyed a lunch time chat with a couple from Buenos Aires (or at least with the female half). She did not seem too pleased with the current president, and certainly not with the new travel restrictions. Apparently you now have to fill in a form to get permission to go abroad, and you are only allotted a limited amount of foreign currency. I can vaguely remember currency restrictions in the UK back in the 70s, but they were considerably more generous and you didn't need permission to leave the country!

Keep up the good work, thursdaysd!

I'm looking forward to what you'll say about Buenos Aires!

As far as I know, AT THIS WRITING, you do NOT need permission from our government to travel abroad.

However, they only allow you to buy at the official rate a preposterously small amount of the currency of the country you are going to. And you DO need to fill forms to get it.

I think it was the amount of currency (20 euros a day?) plus the form that upset the woman I was talking to. She had lived abroad and was accustomed to traveling regularly.

I am now in Argentina, and am not happy with Brazilian buses, we were left at the border! First time a cross-border bus hasn't waited. (And I've crossed a fair number of borders.)

Great reporting so far, Thursdaysd. Just want you to know that I'm following along too...

Thanks, tripplanner, it's always nice to know I'm not talking to myself!

Important note for US citizens

As you know (if you're thinking of visiting Brazil), US citizens need an expensive visa, and now they have to get it ahead of time. This is because of the trouble and expense incurred by Brazilian citizens wanting to visit the US, although Argentina has dispensed with the actual visa, and just levies a "reciprocity" fee. Still, it's rather pricey if all you're after is a day trip to the Brazilian side at Iguazu falls.

I had read rumors that some drivers would offer to take US citizens across without the need for a visa. I can't report on whether this works with an individual car and driver, but I do have some potentially useful information. (Once I boarded my Miami to Rio flight I switched to my UK passport, so this doesn't affect me.)

Today I took the direct bus from Puerto Iguazu to the Brazilian falls (not to Foz do Iguacu). We went through Argentinian border formalities in both directions in the usual manner: getting off the bus and having our passports stamped. However, when we reached Brazilian immigration the driver stopped the bus, made a note on a form, and then kept driving. On the way back he counted the passengers at the falls and didn't even stop.

As far as I know there were no US-only citizens on the bus, but there's no reason to think the procedure would have been different. So, without addressing any moral issues, this is a possibility. Of course, if it doesn't work the day you try it, you'll be stuck at the border waiting for a local bus to go back into Argentina. Don't try it in a Sunday. (I do wonder what would happen if his "people in" minus "people out" didn't equal zero!)

Hello Thursday!
Just wanted a word about the safety stuff. Reading your previous posts and the comments, I'm getting a bit spooked about my own trip to South America in about a month's time. Is it really that bad? I haven't read any FCO travel advisories yet so prefer to get my info from someone on the ground. Thats' YOU!

Reading here too. I have always appreciated reading the good and less than good in your reports.

Hi Gertie, I was spooked too! Worst about Ecuador, which I'm not going to on this trip.

So far, don't seem to be any issues in Puerto Iguazu. Don't know about Foz do Iguacu, the books aren't too happy about it and I chose to sleep on the Argentinian side.

In Rio, I felt OK, but I was extra vigilant, and took taxis "home" after dinner when elsewhere I would have walked. My hotel said you would for sure be mugged if you walked the beach after dark, and I think their street was only safe because there was often a police car parked on the corner.

Vida would say I didn't realize how close I was to danger. All I can say is I made it out OK, which is more than I can say for Rome (let down my guard there). However, I really do wonder how Rio got the Games....

We never felt unsafe in Rio in a week there. I thought the metro was excellent. We took the cable car up to St. Teresa, went to out of the way restaurants. Of course we were vigilant, but nothing more.

Well Thursday, have just read the FCO website for Ecuador and wish I hadn't. Surely it can't be that bad. That's the first half of my trip! Makes the Middle East last summer sound like a holiday camp.
OTOH my daughter has been living there for 6 months and is still afloat.
Take care. Following you with a bit more trepidation....

Well, gertie, crellston is thinking of moving to Ecuador! And a couple of friends of mine had no trouble. But there is a significant difference between living somewhere and visiting there, and half of the couple is a large male.

New safety (lack of) story. I met a woman from Arizona on the bus today. She had both her neck wallet and her shoulder bag stolen outside Recoleta cemetery in BsAs, thereby losing her passport et al. She thinks the straps must have been cut. Personally I'd never wear a neck wallet - too obvious and too uncomfortable, I wear a money belt with the pouch at the back - but she had her bag stolen too.

Oct 21, 2012: Rio wrap and a time trap

If you are after fun in the sun on the sand, and/or partying into the small hours, I feel sure that Rio is your town. For culture vultures, not so much. And then there is the security situation. I generally felt OK, but I was definitely on high alert for pretty much the whole time, and I took taxis after dinner when elsewhere I would have walked. I was told that being on the beach after dark was an invitation to a mugging, and I figured that the street my hotel was on (just a few blocks inland from Copacabana Beach) was only safe because there was often a police car parked on the corner. 

There are good-looking modern buildings around. There are good-looking older buildings, some in need of TLC. There are history and art museums  I didn't get to, but I really don't have any urge to go back to see them. Even discounting the favelas (and it's hard to do that), Rio felt grittier than I had expected. I'm surprised that it was chosen for the 2016 Olympics, and I wonder how much improvement there will be before then. I was in Beijing in 2004, when its abysmal squat toilets were already being replaced by sparkling western ones, well ahead of 2008. Will it be possible to put paper down Rio's toilets by 2016?

Moving on. I had found the staff at my hotel generally helpful, so I was surprised when one of them made a big deal out of arranging a taxi to take me to the airport. I'd do better to walk to the nearest taxi rank, he said. But his cohort agreed to have one waiting at 7:15 the next morning. I set my tiny, trusty, travel alarm clock for 6:00, and then, for backup tried to set an alarm on my new smart phone. Although it was 23:00 the phone kept saying that my alarm was set for six hours ahead. I concluded I was doing something wrong and went to bed.

Next morning, packed, I went down at 7:00 for a cup of coffee and to check on my taxi. Oh, the companies they used had been fully booked, I'd need to use the taxi rank.... Sure would have been nice if someone had called me. It would have been even nicer if someone had told me about the change to summer time, which I now heard about for the first time. It was actually 8:00 am, not 7:00, and my flight left at 10:00. The last time a time change occurred while I was traveling, in Vienna, the hotel posted notices all over the place. This time no-one even said anything!

I try to avoid traveling on Sundays, but while that would have spared me the time change snafu, it did mean that there was so little traffic my taxi (acquired from the rank by one of the staff) got me to the airport in under half an hour. I was checked in and through security by 9:00. The TAM flight was full, but on time. I retrieved my checked bag, had a word with the helpful woman at the T.I. and joined the small group of backpackers waiting for the bus. Almost everyone else was either traveling in a group or had an expensive car and driver waiting.

Following the T.I.'s instructions, I got off the Brazilian airport bus at the Hotel Bourbon, crossed the road, and settled down to wait for the bus to Puerto Iguazu in Argentina. I was joined by a young German woman, on a round the world trip. She had spent several days visiting the falls, and had been staying at the posh Hotel das Cataratas in the Brazilian national park, a surprise present from a friend. She said that it was a very nice hotel, but you were trapped there after the park closed. It looked nice from the outside, too, unlike the Sheraton in the Argentinian national park, a concrete monstrosity spoiling the view.

After the bus finally showed up, and reached the border, we were surprised to be handed "re-embarkation" tickets, and to see the bus drive off with its local passengers still on board! I have crossed more land borders than I can remember, but this was the first time my transport hadn't waited for me. I was not amused, and since it was Sunday the border was moribund and we had a long wait.

The day was cool and overcast, and I was relieved to reach the Pension La Sorgente before the drizzle turned to rain. This was a step up from the Edificio Jucati, with a pool, a good if pricey restaurant, a bar, and hot and cold water for the sink as well as the shower. Unfortunately, the restaurant was closed on Sunday and I had to trek back into town to eat.

Over the next two days I would discover that the Iguazu falls were worth any amount of aggravation....

Great, obviously thursdaysd enjoyed our world-famous "Cataratas del Iguazú"!

You've been going a week and there does seem an unusually high amount of aggravation. Looking forward to the next bit.

Have decided to stop worrying about safety, I've never worried before. Daughter has acquired a large Ecuadorian male so I'm thinking of inviting him along.

Great reporting, Thursdaysd.

With the World Cup coming in 2014, it sounds like Brazil has a lot on its plate in a very short period of time. However, some of the criticisms mirrored those that were lobbed against South Africa back in 2010, so here's hoping for the best.

Looking forward to your segment on Iguazu.

Thanks for reporting here and allowing me to follow along on your latest adventure.

Can't wait to hear more...

Oct 22-23, 2012: Iguazu Falls, Simply Spectacular

I had allowed two full days for the falls, one for the Brazilian side, and one for the Argentinian. You could do it in a day and a half, if you were well organized, or take three or four if you wanted to try the assorted "adventures" on offer. Two days worked well for me.

My first morning I was back at the bus station, a five minute walk from my hotel, in good time for the first direct bus to the Brazilian falls, 60 pesos round trip. We all got off the bus at Argentinian immigration, and were duly stamped out, while the bus waited for us. But at Brazilian immigration, the driver paused briefly, made a note on a form, and then just drove on! Coming back he didn't even pause at Brazilian immigration, so this may be an option for visa-less US citizens.

Occasionally, a world famous sight looks better in the photos than in reality (case in point, Rio, to my eyes), but more often you realize that the photos just couldn't convey the full beauty or grandeur of the place, and it was truly worthwhile to visit in person (the Taj and the Himalayas, for instance). It didn't take long for me to conclude that Iguazu was firmly in the second category. I haven't seen Victoria falls, but I have seen Niagara and Iguaza has Niagara well outclassed.

From the Brazilian side you look across the river to a whole array of beautiful waterfalls. You follow the path from one lookout to the next, finally arriving at the piece de resistance, the walkway out to Devil's Throat, a truly massive fall. As I was there in the spring, the weight of water coming over was immense, and I think actually increased during my visit. I shared the walk with quite a lot of other visitors, but then chose to walk back in the other direction, after eating an indifferent cafe lunch, and found the path almost deserted.

Despite a gloomy weather forecast, I had had brilliant sunshine while I was at the falls (all of the path aside from the walk over the water to Devil's Throat had been shaded by trees) but a major storm arrived with dusk. I didn't mind the branches banging against my window, or the loud drumming of the rain on the roof, but I did mind the power going off. The hotel's emergency generator powered a few feeble emergency lights in the public spaces, but not in the rooms, and certainly not any AC. Fortunately I had my iPad to see by, and when the power made a brief comeback I was able to retrieve my flashlight from my locked case.

The front desk said that it was common for the power to go out - "we are in the middle of a jungle" - so visitors might want to check on the generator situation at prospective hotels. I ate my first course (very nice salmon carpaccio) by candlelight, but was glad to finish dinner with the help of electricity.

The view from Brazil is good, but the falls are actually on the Argentinian side, and the view from there is fantastic. Unfortunately the paths are metal mesh, which can be treacherous when wet - it rained off and on all the time I was there - but otherwise I have no complaints. You can walk above the falls, and watch the water sliding towards oblivion. You can walk below, as the water comes down full force on to the rocks. And finally, you can walk out over the river to the heart of Devil's Throat, and stand with thunder in your ears, with a rainstorm of spray hiding still more falls, while a whole world of water fights its way down. 

Really, I should quit trying to describe it, and just suggest you look at the few pictures I posted at http://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com/2012/10/25/iguazu-falls-simply-spectacular/, with the warning that the pictures are far from doing the place justice. (I won't get the rest up on smugmug until I get home, there's no good app for the iPad.) But one note: If you go, I really recommend going on your own, or using a tour just for transport. It's impossible to get lost, as there's nowhere to walk except on the paths, and if you go with a group you'll be competing with a bunch of other tag-wearing camera-fiends for space at the view points, and trying to keep up with an umbrella-toting guide. I timed it perfectly my second day, and walked both the Upper and Lower Circuits with just one couple occasionally in sight. It was magical. Even the viewpoint at Devil's Throat wasn't too crowded when I got there, as most other people were probably eating lunch. If you want to go on an "adventure" involving rafts and 4x4s, you can sign up when you get to the park. But do put the falls on your must, or at least should, see list.

Wonderful. I read this on your blog first, complete with photos. Hope no-one is tempted to skip the pics on this website. They are outstanding, really get the feeling of the power of the Falls.

Thanks, gertie! I have some video, too, but the upload failed. Guess it will have to wait until December.

Sounds magical, Thursdaysd. And your pics are gorgeous.

Oct 24-26, 2012: Old City, Needs Care

By which I mean both that Montevideo's Ciudad Vieja has many buildings - in some parts most - in need of restoration, and that the visitor needs to be wary both of the undoubtedly treacherous pavement and also of possibly treacherous inhabitants. It is at best disconcerting to have one's hostess announce that on leaving the building after dark one should on no account turn west towards the post office tower, while heading east would be quite safe. Especially when re-entering Casa Sarandi's apartment building requires one to turn one's back to the street while wrestling somewhat painfully with a large and recalcitrant iron key. Don't misunderstand, I quite liked Montevideo, but it did occur to me that staying on the edge of the Old City was perhaps not my best idea. 

It took me the better part of a day to get from Puerto Iguazu to Montevideo, flying via Buenos Aires, because I didn't trust the short layovers offered by most of the options, and because I wanted to arrive in daylight. As it turned out, my inbound flight was an hour late, and I would have been hard-pressed to make the shorter connection. Even if I had made it, my luggage might not have done: the young couple who arrived at the Casa Sarandi my last evening had to wait around until 21:00 for their luggage to catch up to them. I, on the other hand, ate a leisurely if unimpressive lunch in the terminal building, and sauntered through security. (Note: don't plan to eat or drink after clearing security, the service just for coffee was abysmal.)

Riding the shuttle in from the airport I was immediately impressed by how much nicer Montevideo looked than Rio had. Admittedly, we started out along the no-doubt upmarket waterfront, but even when we turned inland the low rise buildings were neat and well-cared for. Until we got to the Barrio Sur. Must be the wrong part of town, I thought, no doubt it will improve when reach the Ciudad Vieja. It didn't. The shops had already closed, and the solid metal shutters had an unwelcoming effect, as did the graffiti - it wasn't even artistic graffiti. During the day, at least Monday to Friday, when the shops are open, and the vendors out on the pedestrian streets, the eastern part of the old town is a nice place to wander, although even then I found the western section very run down and deserted, aside from the area around the Mercado del Puerto.

I did a lot of walking in Montevideo. Some in the old town - in daylight, some along the waterfront - not recommended as the views aren't much and there is no shade at all, and some on the way to Parque Rodo - where I encountered mosquitoes, an ancient fun-fair and little else of note. From the Parque I made my way past some posh apartment blocks to the Punta Carretas shopping center. It seemed a pretty standard mall, with many brands I recognized, and also AC, drinkable coffee and wifi in the cafes. Montevideo's best feature, though, may well be the pretty parks strung along Av. 18 de Julio, and the trees, currently a feathery spring green, lining many of its streets.

According to the map provided by the T.I., there are twenty museums in Montevideo, ranging from coins to Carnaval. I confess to only visiting two, and only enjoying one, the Decorative Arts museum in the Palacio Taranco (which I just noticed isn't actually listed as a museum!) I also had a cultural evening at the Teatro Solis, which anchors the south side of the Plaza Independencia, across from the Radisson, but it was Swedish culture. I was in town for the last night of the Seventh Percussion Festival, and went to see a group called Kroumata. It was undoubtedly interesting, but clearly I have not kept up with the trends in percussion, for some of the pieces were way too avant garde for my taste. Thin metal rods and plastic plates? A bemusing assortment of items having nothing to do with traditional percussion instruments? Two pieces for oversized xylophones...

Since I travel alone, I generally eat alone, which means that I usually drink the house wine by the glass. So I was glad to notice a shop in the old town, Esencia Uruguay, offering tastings. Not free, but not too pricey, either. I tried three wines, with bread, a nice cheese, and a preserve. A Cabernet Franc, a Tannat, and a Cabernet Franc/Tannat blend. I preferred the Tannat, a grape I hadn't met before, but not enough to buy a bottle.

One of my friends seems to think I write too much about food, but I can't write about Montevideo without mentioning the truly excellent beef I ate in two different restaurants (with apologies to the vegetarian friend). One was at the very touristy Mercado - at a place just outside the entrance, to the left of a green iron sculpture, with red umbrellas - where I had kidney and steak. I like kidneys, but I was a little taken aback to be served one giant beef kidney, simply cut in half. I managed about three quarters of it, but needed to leave space for the best beef I've ever eaten. It was matched on my last night, when I skipped the tapas place I had planned on when I found it hosting some very loud music, and walked on in search of Frommer's recommended El Fogon. Fortunately I stopped just short of what looked like a major tourist trap, and was talked into Locos de Asar by a combination of the host outside, and an English habitué inside. I had a nice chat with the Englishman, and another excellent meal.

A good cup of coffee or tea seemed harder to come by, especially if I wanted to drink indoors, and I downed an especially bad cup of green tea in especially attractive surroundings at a bookstore just off the Plaza Independencia. Unlike the lovely little apartment I stayed at in Budapest last fall, the Casa Sarandi came with pots and pans and china and glass, but essentially no comestibles, and I was reduced to drinking Nescafe for breakfast.

Keep up the good work, thursdaysd!

You'll be in Buenos Aires next week!

I expect to help BA get a glowing report!

Hi avrooster - looking forward to meeting you!

I take the ferry from Colonia tomorrow.....

Oct 27-28, 2012: Cute Colonia

Turned out, I had misunderstood the description of Colonia del Sacramento. When I saw the phrase "colonial architecture", I thought "mature, successful, colony". You know, Palladian town halls and baroque churches and wide, tree-lined avenues. Montevideo, in fact. Turned out that the architecture in Colonia was from an earlier phase of settlement, more beleaguered outpost than center of administration, and it did in fact change hands several times before Uruguay became fully independent in 1828, although sometimes as the result of treaties rather than capture.

I was not the only one suffering from misconceptions regarding the town. The otherwise very good guide on my bus tour of Buenos Aires seemed quite taken aback when I mentioned that Colonia had been Portuguese. Oh no, he said, Uruguay was always Spanish. I'm not sure what they teach in history class in Argentina, but according to wikipedia (and to the museums in Colonia) he is flat wrong. Colonia was founded by the Portuguese (in 1680) and was held by the Spanish several times but only briefly, although they did found Montevideo (in 1726). Plus, during the various reshufflings leading up to full independence, Uruguay was first a province of Argentina but then part of Brazil.

So, history aside, the old section of Colonia, inside the mostly vanished walls, was much smaller and more low key than I expected. (I should have paid more attention to the photographs.) The Plaza Mayor was nothing like the typical Iberian town square, being a long, largely unpaved, rectangle, notable for some gorgeous old trees, and surrounded by one story buildings set well back from the road. 

You could easily see all of the old town in half a day if you pushed it. The museums aren't that interesting (and the tile museum was closed), and you need to start early to get your photographs done before the crowds arrive. There are plenty of photo ops. Also plenty of cafes. And mosquitoes. So far I had mostly avoided mosquitoes, although I had to beat a strategic retreat from a lake in Montevideo. Here I had to finally break out the hated insect repellent.

I had picked a hotel that was just a block from the bus station and two from the ferry terminal, which meant I was several blocks from the old town. It also meant I ate dinner in the (cheaper) new town. Extremely well one night (at El Porton) and rather badly across the street the next night. For a hotel in what might have been the bad part of town, the Ayres was a nice surprise, although I could only get wifi in my room in the corners, as the staircase blocked the signal. I did notice a number of hostels, in the new town, and hotels, in the old town, besides the posh and pricey Plaza Mayor, or the Radisson and its casino. The Radisson is located near the handicrafts market and the yacht club. I was in town on the weekend, and on Sunday morning the water was alive with sailing boats, and the pier well populated with fisherman, although the sailors seemed to be having more fun than the anglers. 

I wouldn't bother with the handicrafts market, unless you want to join the locals and gear up to drink mate, which requires a thermos of hot water, a bowl of the herb, and a metal straw. I haven't tried it. I quite enjoyed Colonia, at least in the morning, but although I took a lot of photos I don't think it really justified two nights.

Thank you for you excellent report,K. You tell all and it is very rewarding to read it. Hope the rest of your lengthy travels get smoother and better. Keep on writing this report, we'll all be looking foward to it.
stu

As always a fantastic report Thursdaysd - I have been following you along on you blog with interest. Keep it coming..

Hi Stu, crellston, thanks!!! So nice to see you here.

Oct 31, 2012: A Great (mini) GTG

We interrupt your (ir)regularly scheduled trip report for a short piece on the marvelous dinner avrooster put on for moreweird and me. I was so pleased to meet avrooster and his charming wife in person, and the moreweirds turned out to be morefun, too.

I especially appreciated that avrooster braved the crazy Buenos Aires rush hour traffic, which he usually avoids by living out in the country, to collect me from my Palermo hotel. (The hotel staff were great to me, but it was a bit much of them to refuse to let avrooster into the lobby! Most embarrassing.) Dinner at the best restaurant in town had not been in my plans, and I had packed for warmth (in Patagonia) rather than elegance. Still, I did manage black and a necklace. 

The service was impeccable, and the food delicious, and besides the main course and dessert included things like assorted amuses bouches, sherbet, and a flute of ice-cream with the crepes suzette. My only slight problem was the size of the table, which made general conversation a bit difficult, at least for those not hearing as well as they used to. (Half of moreweird is slated for hearing aids, while I have a hearing test scheduled.) 

I had looked up moreweird's internet profile, and been impressed by their extensive international experience. I was also interested in their take on BsAs, as they are back for the fourth time, for three months. Joie de vivre, and extensive outdoor activities, seemed to be the answer. Alas, I was already finding the humidity oppressive.

So, another successful Fodors (and TA) GTG, many, many thanks to avrooster. 

I should have said that the restaurant was La Bourgogne.....

Ah, delightful company, AV and the moreweirds. Enjoying following along with u.

Thank you, thursdaysd!

You forgot to report my frequent honking, as I drove you around!

I believe in trying to educate BA drivers, an impossible task! LOL!!!!

Oct 29-30, 2012: Beginning Buenos Aires

I had chosen the Hotel Ayres Colonia with the expectation of walking to the ferry terminal. It was certainly close enough. However, when I looked out my window the morning of my departure, I found a full gale in process. Rain was coming down in sheets, small rivers ran along the gutters, and the trees were bowing before the wind. I would need a taxi after all.

I also packed everything in plastic, although Buquebus, unlike JAL, did an admirable job of keeping my checked bag dry. (No, I have neither forgotten nor forgiven.) Buquebus did a less good job of keeping to the schedule: the smaller (and possibly slower and cheaper) Colonia Express left on schedule, carrying most of the backpackers, while the Buquebus passengers had to wait an extra hour. Still, at one point it looked like we might not leave at all, as the captain had some understandable difficulty getting his large craft alongside the dock, fighting the wind that was blowing him away.

For the first, and likely only, time on this trip I was met by a man with a sign with my name on it. Having a fixed rate for the ride proved especially beneficial when the driver had difficulty finding my hotel. He pointed out a couple of times that the additional distance wasn't going to cost me extra. Along with the remise (car and driver), I had picked a more-expensive-than-usual hotel, after I was talked out of staying in the cheaper but dodgier San Telmo barrio (good advice). I had been a little dubious about the hotel, as it was very highly rated on Tripadvisor, and I had had a couple of bad experiences with highly-rated places. This time, though, the rating proved justified, and I thoroughly enjoyed my stay. (I had thought I was about to quit posting on TA, after they pulled my review of the Kalemi in Gjirokaster, the owner apparently having claimed it was about a different hotel, and that he didn't have the amenities I mentioned. Since there is a bare handful of places to stay in old town Gjirokaster, and the only amenities I had mentioned were the view and the bathroom, this was patently ridiculous, and so I told TA. It took two or three weeks, but they finally put my review back up again.)

With the delays, I didn't have much afternoon left, and after getting settled I decided to go visit the Las Violetas cafe, which had been highly recommended on my planning thread. This also meant I could check out the Subte (metro) in general, and the original line in particular. I had no trouble buying a ticket (actually a small set of tickets), nor with navigating the system, but I did encounter a well-known scam for the first time. I connected from Catedral to Peru through a crowded and rather wet tunnel and was just reaching the new platform when a young woman tapped me on the shoulder to show me globs of some yellow substance on the back of my coat and trousers.

I do wonder why I was picked for this scam. I was wearing the rain pants I had bought for Patagonia, and my heavier, but still washable, coat, and would have no trouble getting rid of the stuff without stains. I simply swore and kept walking, but when a second young woman offered to clean me  up I handed her a couple of tissues and let her get on with it, meanwhile keeping a death grip on my bag (which I had been carrying in front as I usually do on metros). I don't keep valuables in my pockets, so they were out of luck. (Actually, I later discovered 26 cents American at the bottom of one pocket, but the pockets on that coat aren't designed for easy access.)

Las Violetas was nice enough, with some pretty stained glass and a fin de siècle vibe, although the cheese cake wasn't great. I found the metro less impressive, the historic line being uncomfortable and in need of some TLC. The four blocks of Scalabrini Ortiz between my hotel and the metro could also use some care and attention, although the supermarket and pharmacies were fine once I went inside. I concluded that some subsidies must be in effect, because a subway ride is only 2.5 pesos, and two liters of water from the supermarket less than 6 pesos. Officially the rate is 4.76 pesos to the USD. I had not realized when I planned this trip that the Argentinian government had currency controls in place. I think that the black (blue?) market rate is more like 6.8, but that's not so easy for a tourist to access. 

I am not in general a fan of bus tours, but the forecast was for more rain, so I signed up for one for my first morning. Happily, only three other people had made the same decision for the same tour, and the guide was good. Besides drive-by sightings of things like the (modern) obelisk and the (turn of the 20th century) Teatro Colon, and of barrios like Puerto Moderno (new and fancy) and San Telmo (old and decrepit) we got off in the Plaza De Mayo, La Boca, and for a guided tour of Recoleta cemetery. This took care of a number of my sightseeing priorities. 

La Boca, listed in the all the guidebooks, was a major disappointment. Aside from the football stadium, in which I had zero interest, the "sight" consisted of three streets totally given over to cafes and souvenir shops and photo ops. The worst kind of tourist trap. Recoleta cemetery, on the other hand, I revisited after lunch, although it did not displace Lviv's cemetery in my affections.

Since I paid for the bus tour in dollars, I was entitled to a free walking tour later in the week. I would, it turned out, do a lot of walking in Buenos Aires.

Still glued to this though getting less and less enthusiastic about my own trip there next year. There is a lot in your TR to take note of. On the other hand, have also a trip planned (in progress?) to Lviv which I am more optimistic about. Maybe you are essentially a European traveller?

Hi gertie - this is my first time south of Mexico, so it's really too soon to say. So far, though, I'd have to rate the scenery higher than the cities. Iguazu was great, and so was the Perito Moreno glacier today.

Enjoy Lviv! I need to go back...

@gertie3751--As one (older female, often solo) who has enjoyed travel in S.A. and Brazil in particular for decades, I suggest you read (and ask lots of questions on) some other Brazil and S.A. forums for other perspectives and different profile of participants, so as to get a fuller picture of S.A. travel and a wider range of opinions, before you resolve to be less enthusiastic about your trip. Try Trip Advisor, Lonely Planet, Virtual Tourist, Flyertalk, CruiseCritic, Frommer, Fodor (some busier than others). If I can be of any assistance to you with details or doubts, please don't hesitate to ask.

I'm also glued to your thread! I will be following in (many of) your footsteps at the end of the month.

I have to say I am getting even more excited about my visit after reading your comments.

And always enjoy reading about a happy fodors GTG - so glad it worked out for all.

Can't wait to hear about PMG and beyond...

Sorry to hear you were hit by the mustard scam, but at least you knew what it was and didn't get ripped off as so many others have in the past.

I agree w/ you 100% about the scenery vs. the cities - Iguazu, Patagonia, NW are the places for me and I generally use Bs As as a stopover for flights.

Gertie - don't lose your enthusiasm for South America!! Will your trip focus on cities? I encourage you to explore Patagonia (El Calafate, El Chalten, Bariloche or Peninsula Valdes depending on timing), go to Iguazu Falls, take the boat trip from Bariloche to Puerto Varas in Chile, spend a week in the NW around the Salta region.

Argentina has many awesome destinations, but for some of us, it is not the cities, but the spectacular mountains, glaciers, lakes and wildlife.

Status: in El Chalten looking at clouds, after two wonderful days with the glaciers in El Calafate

Oct 30-31, 2012: Sampling Buenos Aires

After my mini bus tour ended, I ate at an indifferent lunch at a place close to Recoleta cemetery (I opted to eat indoors, and was then amused to discover that the choice saved me money), before taking a second look at the (now less crowded) cemetery, and checking out the baroque Jesuit church next door.

I spent the afternoon walking down Avenue Libertador, past a string of parks and heroic statues, to the Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo, housed in a 1918 mansion built for one Matias Errazuriz Ortuzar. The museum had a nice outdoor cafe, shaded by trees, and I allowed myself to be tempted by the creme brûlée I found on the dessert menu. I had to change tables when a man took the table downwind from mine and lit a large and malodorous cigar, although I'm happy to report that smoking indoors seems to have been outlawed in Argentina.

The mansion's Great Hall was off-limits while the artifacts from an exhibition were carefully packed for transport, but it could be viewed from the gallery that surrounded it on three sides. I found the museum quite interesting, although I would not have cared to inhabit some of the rooms - one oppressively red, and one very dark. Full marks for the bathroom facilities, though. I finished the day by walking back to my hotel past the Parque Las Heras. One thing Buenos Aires has plenty of, at least in the better-off sections, is green space. Some of the trees are quite magnificent, with wide trunks and spreading branches. The grounds don't always look well-cared for - but some of that may be due to the recent heavy rains. I later noticed a city employee cleaning mud off the pavements, although a broom might have been an ecologically sounder, and maybe even a more efficient, choice than a water hose.

My first night my hotel (the Duque) had sent to me to a "healthy" restaurant, the Quimbombo. I had ignored the several vegetarian options in favor of a pretty good prawn curry, and for my second night I went all the way carnivore, eating steak at Don Julio, also recommended by my hotel, and conveniently close. The service was good, and the steak cooked as I requested and very tender, but sadly lacking in flavor compared to the beef I had enjoyed in Argentina. Later I would learn that instead of lomo (tenderloin), I should have ordered bife de chorizo, which I had thought had something to do with sausage.

I spent day three, Wednesday, walking north. First to the banks at the intersection of Scalabrini Ortiz and Santa Fe, as I had heard that cash was hard to come by in El Calafate and El Chalten, and then successively through the Botanic Gardens, the Zoo and the Japanese Garden, with a pause for lunch after the zoo. As usual, I enjoyed the Botanic Gardens, although I had to break out the insect repellent, and the Japanese Gardens, although I found them too sprawling and undisciplined to be truly convincing. But the zoo should be avoided! Of course, urban zoos are always likely to be depressing, but this one was particularly bad, with the buildings in dire need of renovation, and the animals miserably housed.

Lunch was a considerable improvement on Tuesday, purely by chance. I walked less than a block off Ave. Libertador and found Bella Italia, where I ate an excellent risotto. I did have some difficulty leaving, partly due to a misunderstanding over paying the bill. I thought the waitress was asking if I wanted to charge the meal in American dollars or in pesos (the dreaded dynamic currency conversion scam) while she was actually trying to tell me that they only took American Express. Dinner was even better, being the mini-GTG described above.

Status: In El Chalten, looking at clouds, after a beautiful day with beautiful views. Net access here is abysmally slow.

No 1-2, 2012: More Buenos Aires

On my last trip, I had been shown round part of Chicago by a volunteer greeter, and a couple of trips back a similar volunteer had taken me to a full-moon celebration outside Kyoto, so I was pleased to find that Buenos Aires also had people willing to show strangers a local's view. When asked what I wanted to see when I requested a greeter, I expressed interest in Art Nouveau, and in visiting San Telmo and La Boca. Alas, it seems that BsAs is more a city for my friends, the Art Deco fans, but my volunteer, Mauricio, had gone to high school and university in San Telmo, although he now lived in Palermo.

We started by taking the metro to Obelisco, for a closer look at the obelisk (similar to the Washington monument) erected in 1936 to mark the city's 400th anniversary. Then we walked down to Plaza de Mayo, where this time I got to go inside the cathedral, remarkable chiefly for the flag-draped tomb of independence-hero Jose de San Martin (who had died in penury in France). In between we checked out the facades and main halls of some impressive banks, one of which had started life as a theater.

I got another look at the Pink House, aka Government House, which had once fronted the river. I already knew that Eva Peron's famous speech had not been given from the Pink House's balcony in real life, only in the movie. I haven't seen the movie, but I did visit the informative Evita Museum, where I was surprised to learn how short her tenure as Argentina's first lady had been. Then we walked to San Telmo, where I insisted on a coffee break....

I had originally wanted to stay in an interesting-looking B&B in San Telmo, but posters at Fodors and Tripadvisor had talked me out of it on the grounds that much of the area was unsafe at night. After seeing it, I was happy to be staying in Palermo. Although there are plenty of shopping opportunities. From San Telmo we took a cab to Parque Lezama and a restaurant Mauricio recommended for beef. It was here that I learned that bife de chorizo has nothing to do with sausage.

Parque Lezama is really in La Boca, a more perilous barrio than San Telmo, and I was surprised that the National History Museum is there. Instead of visiting the museum, we shared a cab back to the Recoleta area, where Mauricio had a doctor's appointment, and I planned to visit the Belles Arts Museum. I would have skipped the Belles Arts Museum if I hadn't been meeting my free walking tour outside, and if I hadn't heard that it had paintings by El Greco (two, one on loan from the Prado), and Rembrandt (one, attributed, dubiously in my view).

The walking tour was with my guide from the bus tour, and after trekking through the embassy district, and through some more parks to the admittedly-beautiful rose garden I decided I had had more than enough exercise for one day and called it quits. I took a taxi back to my hotel.

Friday morning, my last, I walked only as far as the mall on Av. Santa Fe. I find that supermarkets and malls are an interesting change from the tourist sights, and this one housed a couple of good bookstores in addition to the usual clothes and jewelry stores. I noticed that, unlike a U.S. mall, where I would have needed an extra layer as protection from the AC, here the AC wasn't helping a whole lot. 

I also had something a little different planned for the afternoon, a graffiti tour. This involved some walking and some driving, around Palermo, and gave me a look at some really interesting street art. The guide, an Australian woman who had lived in BsAs for several years, told us that street art really got underway after the 2001 economic crisis, as a way to cheer people up. Technically illegal, no-one gets prosecuted, and so the artists can paint in the daytime. She was obviously on good terms with a number of the artists and we paid a visit to one of the studios

Am enjoying your report, Thursday. How did you like Duque Hotel in BA? Wondering cause I made us a reservation there for some of our BA days in Jan/Feb, when we'll be all over Argentina for a couple months. . . .

glover - I was a bit concerned about the Duque because I had prepaid, and because it was so highly rated on TA (I've had a couple of bad experiences with highly rated places), but I really liked it. The staff were very friendly and helpful, the breakfast was good and included eggs, there was tea and coffee available all day, the bed was comfortable and the water was hot. I'll be giving it five stars on TA. It is a long four blocks to the banks and the metro, but it's handy for Palermo and some good eating places.

gertie - I may not have put Rio and BsAs on my must revisit list, but am loving Patagonia. I don't know what your itinerary looks like, but if it doesn't include Patagonia you should change it!

Enjoying following along your journey to many places we have visited and loved.

@gertie -- if you don't like cities, then BA probably may not be the best destination for you. I love BA and think there is a lot to see and do, but I like what cities have to offer. BA is great for wandering and sitting in cafes too. Agree that La Boca is pretty much a tourist trap. Have stayed in San Telmo on one visit to BA and had a great time there with no issues at all. That said, I absolutely fell in love with Patagonia, esp Torres del Paine.

Cities - It's not that I don't like cities. It's not that I don't like big cities - last time I checked, London still ranked as pretty big. It's that I like particular cities, and not necessarily for obvious reasons, although interesting and varied architecture and good public transport help. Some cities I walk into, and know instantly that I will like it there. Others, I just don't get that reaction. So, Lisbon makes me smile and Madrid doesn't. I prefer Beijing (at least as it was the last time I saw it) to Shanghai, Moscow to St. Petersburg (too much baroque).

And heat and humidity really turn me off. I live with high heat and humidity in the summer, but I drive everywhere in an AC car. I expect to walk in cities. Anywhere the first thing I do when I get back to my hotel room is strip off and get in the shower, and the second is to wash everything I was wearing, is fighting a losing battle. I thought I had arrived in BsAs early enough in the year for that not to be a problem. I was wrong.

Status - serendipity strikes again. I had one day for Torres del Paine National Park. Supposedly there are only 60 days in the year when you can actually see the towers. And yesterday was one of them - bright sunshine! In fact it was hot, I had taken cold weather gear and kept taking layers off. Now I'm waiting to board the Navimag ferry from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt. It hasn't arrived yet, but I am checked in. Last week it was canceled....

Hope you have time to visit the Angelmo market in Puerto Montt.....it's quite amazing!

Nice catch up! And good to hear you are doing well.
I seem to have stirred things up a bit with my last comment. Totally unintentionally.
My trip to Rio/BsAs/Santiago will be about this time next year. I haven't started planning it yet; a lot will depend on my daughter who will be living there by then.
Meanwhile I'm taking lots of notes on your trip as I think we have the same travelling style and I can profit from your adventures!
As to not liking cities: absolutely not true. I love cities all over Europe, Asia and Central America. Have to say though that I prefer the natural sights in the USA. Looks like South America may fall into that category too.
Now I'm about to look at your blog and hope to see more wonderful photos!
Take care.

Status: Boat arrived in Puerto Montt on day scheduled, after four hours on the bus am now in Castro, on Chiloe. Finally have wifi again!

Nov 3, 2012: From the Ridiculous to the Sublime

I knew better. Really I did. I knew that cities may have multiple airports, just like they may have multiple bus stations and multiple train stations (heaven knows, London has enough train stations). I even knew that Buenos Aires had two airports, AEP mostly domestic (although my flight to Uruguay left from there) and EZE mostly international. I also knew to double check - even triple check - transport and hotel reservations.

But for some reason, I had it fixed in my mind that my flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate left from EZE. Perhaps it was because I was flying LAN, the Chilean national airline. Perhaps it was because Patagonia felt like a different country. In any case, when I checked my e-ticket for the flight time, it didn't register that right underneath the time it said AEP. It didn't register until I was actually AT the wrong airport.

This was an expensive mistake, as AEP is right down town, nice and close to my hotel, while EZE is well outside. Fortunately, it wasn't as expensive as it might have been, as the Saturday morning traffic allowed my second taxi to get me back through town to AEP in time to check in. Actually, I thought the driver could have gone a good bit faster, but perhaps he didn't think his vehicle was up to it. In any case, there were people still checking in for the Mendoza flight, which shared the El Calafate line, just half an hour before take off.

I had also failed to notice that the ticket said "snack" rather than "lunch". Even supplemented by a couple of energy bars, the snack wasn't going to hold me until dinner. Fortunately, it did last me through waiting for the shuttle to fill at El Calafate's small airport, for the shuttle to deliver me to the Hosteria Hainen, where I had a reservation, for the helpful young woman on the front desk to book me bus tickets and glacier tours, and for me to trek into town to the supermarket. But I had to eat half the ready-made sandwich I picked up while I was standing in line to pay.

Having staved off a starvation attack, I took a look at El Calafate, and was not impressed. Whatever it was like a few years back, it is now, no doubt thanks to the airport, tourist central, with far too many souvenir shops for my taste. I booked the bus to Puerto Natales for the following Saturday, which I had to do in person, passport in hand, I had coffee at a funky bar cum cafe cum bookstore, and hoped for good weather the next day.

The high point of the day turned out to be dinner. Rejecting the parillas (barbecue places) near my hotel, I went back into town (the Hainen was across the river and up a steep graveled road at the east end of town) to Casimiro Bigua, which advertised itself as a wine and tapas place. Of course, after such an expensive morning, I should probably have settled for pizza, but I felt in need of pampering. 

I was about to order langoustines and lamb when I noticed a tasting menu: five courses with matched wines. Carpe diem. I ordered it, and I didn't regret it. My waiter was informative but not intrusive, and also energetic, as I saw him heading up the street a couple of times to a sister restaurant for the wine. All the wine and food were excellent, except that the lamb was overcooked for my taste, but not, I'm aware, for local tastes. The smoked salmon with avocado was a welcome change, the Patagonian toothfish deliciously buttery, and at least three of the wines remarkable: Malamado extra dry, Lagarde DOC malbec and Malamado malbec. Even with the cover charge, water, coffee and tip, the meal didn't cost any more than the wine dinners I sometimes indulge in at home. 

I went to bed in a much better mood, despite the rain that had started falling during dinner.

Great!

I gather you haven't seen the glacier yet.

That's what you go to Calafate for.

For anyone who can afford it, I suggest skipping the town and staying at Los Notros, where you can see the glacier from your bed.

Keep up the good work, thursdaysd!

Hi av - I'm posting in arrears, partly due to sightseeing getting in the way of writing, and partly to no wifi on the boat from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt. Am currently in Chile, although will be returning to Argentina soon.


Nov 4-5, 2012: Glaciers, and More Glaciers

Aside from the airport, El Calafate has probably become tourist central because its attractions are accessible without effort. The energetic head for El Chalten, a few hours north, where you need to hike to see the high points. In El Calafate you just book a tour and board a bus and a boat. I booked two, one for each of my days in town. I could have walked down the main street, and compared all the different companies, but instead I had my hotel book me, and their choices were fine.

My first day I took a tour to the Perito Moreno glacier, which involved a bus ride out to the southern sector of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (100 pesos admission, I think, on top of the tour price), a boat ride along the south face of the glacier, and a further bus ride to where you could walk down to a series of balconies practically touching the glacier. (This trip has changed a bit recently. The Perito Moreno glacier is one of the few that is still advancing, and the south and north faces now require separate boat trips as the glacier has made contact with the shore.)

The Hosteria Hainen had provided me with a packed lunch (including an excellent chicken and cheese sandwich), and I ate it while sitting in the sunshine admiring the glacier - the rain had cleared overnight. The tour allowed for two hours on the balconies, and really I could have used more, but I also enjoyed the boat trip, which I don't think I could have done with public transport. We got a long, slow, up-close look at the face of the glacier, a sweep of pinnacles and vertical crevices, with the colors shading from purest white to electric blue.
 
Perito Moreno is just one of the glaciers flowing down from the Southern Ice Cap, the world's third largest (after Antarctica and Greenland), and the next day I took a much longer boat trip to see two more, plus the other face of Perito Moreno, and a whole series of smallish icebergs, gradually turning translucent and melting in the sunshine. Upsala, 10 kms wide where it reaches Lago Argentino's North Arm, and Spegazzini, were just as fascinating as Perito Moreno - the colors were amazing, and the shapes intricate. The deepest blue was so intense as to appear unnatural, as if some kind of chemical spill had taken place. 

If you're planning a trip to Argentina the glaciers really are a must-see - just like the Iguassu Falls at the other end of the country. It's hard to think of a bigger contrast than that between the arid steppes and majestic glaciers around El Calafate, and the hot, humid forests and roaring falls at Iguassu. But the power of water, liquid or frozen, is on full display at both. I enjoyed the glaciers so much that I moved Alaska and Antarctica further up my "must-see" list, where they had been languishing near the bottom. (I had figured I would save Alaska for when I was more decrepit, and Antarctica is just plain expensive.)

I had good luck with the weather. Although it was seriously cold out on the deck, and the wind was fierce when we were moving, the rain held off and the sun showed the glaciers at their best. I could hardly complain when it rained the next day, when I took the bus to El Chalten. I had enjoyed staying at the Hosteria Hainen, although it was a bit of a trek back from town, but it rose even higher in my esteem when the owner, declaring that taxis were unreliable, drove me to the bus station himself. I was half an hour early and able to claim the front seat. The bus left full, mostly with people in their twenties and thirties, toting hefty backpacks.

Status: Am now in Puerto Varas, great view of volcanoes. Just booked the two day bus and boat trek to Bariloche in Argentina and leave on Thursday.

Nov 6-8, 2012: Must Exercise, Must Exercise

El Chalten, founded quite recently as an outpost to further Argentina's claims in a border dispute with Chile, has found a new purpose as the gateway to the northern section of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, but retains its frontier feel. It's much smaller than El Calafate, and without the latter's souvenir shops. Only the main streets are paved, and there is little action during the day, when most visitors are out hiking.

I had booked three nights in El Chalten, and was fortunate to have one beautiful, sunny day, as apparently it had been raining, and even snowing, for weeks. I had booked a double en-suite at the Albergue Patagonia, an HI hostel, with some doubts, and was pleasantly surprised by my comfortable room, and by the good bistro next door, owned by the same people. The only problem was wifi, as the whole town is run off a satellite link, and access was abysmally slow.

The day I arrived was cold and wet, and I only went out for lunch - a hot and filling bowl of lentil stew at the closest place that was open. It was also election day in the US. I had voted absentee before I left, happy to avoid the last three weeks of frantic campaigning (I live in a swing state), but had forgotten that I might want TV for the actual election. In the event, the one TV in the hostel was tuned to a rock concert, and I had no idea of the results until next morning, when I was able to read some of the news websites.

That morning I put on my warmest clothes (although not my thermal underwear), packed ear muffs and a woolly hat along with lunch, and set off in sunshine on the trail to Laguna de los Tres to take a look at Mt. Fitz Roy. (I discovered later that when it wasn't raining you could actually see Fitz Roy from El Chalten, but it was nothing like the views from the trail.) The helpful guy on the desk at the Albergue Patagonia had offered me a "cheat" for this trail. A car would drop me north of the mountain and I could hike in along a river and then down, instead of up, the Laguna trail. However, he said it would take five hours, and I figured that not only would it likely take me significantly longer, once I started I would be committed. If I went in on the Laguna trail, I might start out uphill, but I could decide if and when I needed to turn back. (I had no intention of tackling the last leg, steeper and more difficult than the rest.)

The weather was so good, that, aside from the sections where the wind hit me, I was over-dressed, and shed layers. I even saw a few people hiking in shorts. But at times the wind felt fierce enough to blow me over. The weather was also so good, the view from the first mirador so clear, and I sufficiently out of shape, that I did not go on to the second mirador. Instead I took a side trail to a lake, where I found another good viewpoint. I had thought that the trail would be in full sun, but instead much of it was shaded by trees, and I thoroughly enjoyed the walk in the woods and the marvelous views. But there was no question that I was out of shape. I needed to get into better condition before coming back.

The weather forecast for my second full day at El Chalten was iffy, and I booked a tour to Lago des Desierto with the thought that if it rained I could at least look at the lake. Bad plan! After we reached the lake I had not gone far up the trail that would supposedly lead me to a view of a glacier when it started raining. And then raining hard. I retreated to the only shelter available, a small hut where an elderly woman sold admission tickets for the trail, and some drinkable coffee, but with no view of anything.  Fortunately, I had taken my smart phone/iPod, and wasn't as bored as I might have been. The other people from the minibus continued up the trail, but when they returned some time later conveyed (they didn't speak English), that they hadn't seen the glacier, it had snowed, and, with some indignation, that the trail was "periloso". On the way back we drove through snow, and then rain, to return to a village enjoying sunshine....

KW..you're report is so ultra readable. Your descriptions are spot on and jog my memory of places in SA I've also visited. Thank you...pics? enjoy the rest of your exciting trip!
Stu

Thanks, Stu! Can't get pix on smugmug until I get home, but for a taste see my blog, mytimetotravel.wordpress.com

Really enjoying following along on your trip. The photos on your blog make me realise how much I regret not visiting the glaciers on our last trip. Keep it coming!

Just returned form the Chilean Embassy in DC where they have a great photo exhibit of Patagonia. Your photos would fit right in -- fabulous!
Raading your blog is making me so sorry we passed on el Chalten.

Did you hike on the glacier at Puerto Moreno? That was fascinating and quite exhilarating. FYI all the tour places in town seemed to be connected to the same central place so prices were the same. We did check out quite a few as we strolled thru el Calafate.

Perito Moreno --hate auto spellcheck.

Lovely pics, Thursdaysd. I'm enjoying your report as well.

crellston - re: glaciers - for once, the word awesome applies.

yestravel - the blog is still in Argentina, but the same mountains. I walked on a glacier in Pakistan and found it hard going. I think Perito Moreno would have been smoother but still difficult. One person reported that you needed to be able to handle a scree slope, and I have trouble with them. (I have auto spellcheck turned off, it would drive me nuts.)

tripplanner - thanks!

KW...the blog pics are superb...made me sad that i didn't go far enough south in Patagonia. Await your smugmug pics when you get home...have a continuing great journey, as it has been thus far!

Stu

Nov 10-12, 2012: Towers of Blue

I took the bus back to El Calafate, to another hostel. The Hosteria Hainen had had a room available, but since I would arrive and leave by bus I decided to keep my reservation at the Lago Argentino hostel, as it was only a block from the bus station. Sadly, that was its only recommendation: it was nothing like the Albergue Patagonia, and not only bare but barely acceptable.

I spent the afternoon at the Glaciarium, a recently built "Museum of Patagonian Ice", oddly located well out of town, and found it disappointing. The high point was supposed to be an audio-visual experience on global warming, but it was wasted on me - I don't need convincing that we are radically changing our planet. I could have had a drink in their ice bar, but I don't think wine goes well with ice, and didn't want a cocktail in the middle of the afternoon. Instead, I had another dinner at the Casimiro Bigua, although this time I settled for the langoustines and lamb.

It was as well that I had bought my ticket to Puerto Natales, a small port on Last Hope Sound in Chile, the day I had arrived in El Calafate, as the bus left full. I heard later that in high season it could take three hours to cross the border, but we had no difficulties. The scenery wasn't as good as I expected, as we made a big loop away from the high mountains, across the steppe. Puerto Natales turned out to have more of the feel of El Chalten than of El Calafate, although it was bigger. The influences of Germanic settlers were still clear around the main square. Another outpost, all its supplies came in on the weekly boat from Puerto Montt to the north, the boat I hoped to take in two days time.

The Hallef Hotel, six blocks out of the center (quite a distance in Puerto Natales), was new and a welcome upgrade from the Lago Argentino hostel. Only one of the staff spoke English, and I needed the Translate apps on my iPad and smart phone a few times, but they booked me on the full day tour of Torres del Paine National Park with no difficulty. The fit and energetic hike the park, taking a week for the full circuit, I had never had thoughts of joining them.

So I cheated. The only hiking I did was an hour round trip for a distant view of Glacier Grey. Otherwise I sat on the bus, and got off with thirty others at the designated view points. But the views were stellar. Once again, I had been remarkably lucky. The guide said that you could see the park's signature towers only 60 days in the year, and I was visiting on one of them, a clear, sunny day, sandwiched between two cool and cloudy ones. Also, since I was the first to board, I had the front seat on the bus, with great views all day. It made up for the hour driving round town to pick up the rest of the tourists. At least that allowed me to discover a crepes restaurant I might otherwise have missed.

The guide told us that "paine" meant "blue" in the language of the original inhabitants, who had been essentially wiped out by the European settlers, even though the first estancia (ranch) in the area had not been established until the early 20th century. So, I was visiting the blue towers. The most photographed side is the north, where the towers glowed in the sunshine, in shades of grey more than blue, but with streaks of many other colors, including red. From the south, the mountains appeared quite different, with black basalt caps on top of dull grey base rock.

My second day was, in contrast, exceedingly boring. There is really nothing to do in Puerto Natales itself, once you have been taken aback by the unexpectedly scenic waterfront, and visited the tiny museum. I was in town mostly to catch the boat to Puerto Montt, and after I checked in at 10:30, I spent the rest of the day drinking coffee or tea in places that had wifi.

When I checked in, I ran into the woman I had met on the Brazilian-Argentinian border, back at the beginning of my trip. She had been supposed to take the ferry out the preceding week, but it had been canceled. She had been in town for a week, driving herself out to the park a couple of times, and taking a day trip on a boat. I was very relieved when the Evangelistas actually showed up. However, if it had been canceled I would probably have gone south for a week, or asked for a refund and flown out. Since my guide books had been written, Puerto Montt had acquired a small airport.

Your writing brings back such wonderful memories. Terrific description of the towers -- a sight I will always remember. We did several hikes in TdP, each hike a half day or less. Scenery was gorgeous. And yes, trekking, hiking whatever on Perito Moreno was not easy.

We had some wondrous pisco sours flavored with calafate berries in Puerto Natales at Hotel Indigo.

Continuing to enjoy your TR.

I only saw the Indigo from the outside, looked interesting. I was drinking good (for a change!) coffee at Kau, nearby, and also at El Living.

Nov 12-16, 2012: I Get Bored on Boats....

Boats always sound like such a good idea that I keep forgetting that I get bored on them. Either there's nothing to look at but sea, or the coast is too far away to see clearly, or the coast just looks the same for hour after hour. But still, I am a big fan of overland travel, and a boat is therefore preferable to a plane, and travel up the Chilean side of the Andes in the far south looked to be very difficult by road. So I booked passage on the Evangelistas, which is really the supply ship for Puerto Natales rather than a passenger boat, and hoped both that it would arrive in Puerto Montt more or less on time (apparently not always the case) and that the Chilean fjords would be both visible and attractive.

The good luck which had let me see the El Calafate glaciers, Mt. Fitz Roy, and Torres del Paine in bright sunshine, held. Although the previous week's sailing had been canceled, we boarded on time, at 21:00 on Monday night. The boat is frequently delayed by rough seas and high winds for Wednesday's leg across the Golfo del Penas and a stretch of the Pacific, but although it was cold and wet, we had one of the calmest crossings in the recent memory - just enough swell to be interesting. Tuesday was clear enough, and Thursday so fine that half the passengers were sunbathing on the top deck.

The Torres del Paine guide had told me that only 5% of the visitors to Puerto Natales took the boat, and certainly we sailed less than full. This led to a certain amount of discrete upgrading. The woman who had waited a week to board had booked BBB class - a two person cabin with private but not en-suite bathroom - for single use at 1600-odd USD. She was upgraded to first class - I saw her cabin, two berths, a couch under the window, a desk, and en-suite bathroom. First-class passengers had a separate dining room with waiters, and wine with lunch and dinner.

Then I heard of some couples who had booked two berths in a four berth cabin, and didn't have to share. I was particularly fortunate. I had booked C class - open berths in the "dormitory", as friends who had taken the boat said that the four person cabins had no more room, just a door, and were claustrophobic. I was taken aback by how little space there was between the berths, especially with four people's luggage on the floor (and my temporary companions' backpacks looked too big for the lockers), and started out by moving round the corner to a berth next to one of the shared bathrooms, where I would have more space if also more noise. Shortly afterwards a crew member collected me and took me off to a BBB cabin - possibly the one from with my friend had been upgraded - and then down the passageway to show me the separate bathroom. With the senior discount I had paid 323 USD for my ticket... (Note that the fares included all meals.) I seemed to be the only "older" person in the dormitory, I don't think anyone else there got upgraded. There were other older travelers on board, but they had all booked cabins.

My cabin was very cold, until I found the switches for the radiator, and right at the back, where I couldn't hear the announcements (I imagine I could have heard the emergency siren, lol), and my bathroom two sections distant with an uncooperative key, but I certainly had no complaints. I was thrilled by the extra space and the privacy, although I spent most of my waking hours in the public areas. Although the Evangelistas was in no way a cruise ship (although some thought it was charging cruise ship prices), it had a bar as well as the cafeteria, and attempts were made to amuse the passengers: daily lectures in both Spanish and English on the fauna and flora of Patagonia, nightly National Geographic movies, and a bingo cum party on the last night. I made it through the bingo, but when they cranked up the music for the party I retired. (Can someone explain why loud music is supposed to be a fun thing? I can hardly hear anyone talk, I have to shout to be heard, and I worry about damage to my hearing...)

The first morning we were woken early to see how narrow a passage the ship was navigating. (I was woken by my alarm clock, I couldn't hear the announcement.) It didn't look that narrow to me, but I'm no sailor. Then we got an up close look at a glacier. The rest of that day the shore was quite interesting, while the second day there would have been nothing to look at, as we crossed open water, even if the weather had been good. The last day we had a distant view of some minke whales, and a closer look at some dolphins, but the coast was further off.

Besides the woman I had met at the beginning of my trip, I spent time with an Australian couple, retired on a "hobby" farm in Tasmania with cattle (for meat) and alpacas (for fiber), a Swedish couple, and a mixed German/American group: there were passengers from all over. I also finished one of the audio books on my smart phone. 

While I enjoyed the trip, I feel no need to repeat it. I am getting back on a boat tomorrow, but only for a couple of hours.

Loving this. Like you I'm a fan of overland travel and unlike you I really like boats; my favourite method of transport.
I'm following you on the map and can't wait to do it all myself. The pics on your blog are fantastic.
Keep it coming. I set off for Ecuador next week!

Hi gertie - how exciting!!! What's your itinerary? Are you blogging?

Hi thursdays, I'm now in Singapore so have good, strong wi-fi and time to catch up with you. You are having quite the adventure! Enjoying reading all about it.

Hi Kathie, good to see you. I'm looking forward to reading about your trip when I get home!

I just spent two days crossing the Andes by bus and boat and am back in Argentina in very crowded Bariloche. Turns out I hit a new holiday weekend. Definitely cold but sunny and gorgeous views.

Thursdaysd, thank you so much for keeping this thread going, and for your blog with those excellent photos ! I have been enjoying following you on this trip (now I plan to find your earlier TRs on Fodors, too). Your adventure is so varied and textured - your descriptions are interesting, fun and valuable for future planning. Again, thank you.

Marnie - why, thank you! Lots of my TRs around, including pre-Fodors on my old web site, wilhelmswords.com

This trip is still in progress, traveling has been taking priority over writing.... I don't get home until mid-December, just before the Christmas travel rush.

Nov 16-17, 2012: Charles Darwin Didn't Like It

Chiloe is a large island off the coast of Chile, where the water-laden westerlies from the Pacific make their first landfall. As a result it's a very wet island, getting over 100 inches of rain a year on the western mountains, and most of the population sensibly lives in the drier east. Much of the west coast is a now a national park, with limited road access.

I discounted Ancud, the closest city to the mainland, which sounded uninteresting, and opted instead to stay in Castro, settled in 1567 but since battered by earthquakes, tsunamis, fires and privateers, despite Darwin's 1834 description of the town as "a most forlorn and deserted place". It does look rather better than that now, despite a 1960 earthquake that destroyed many of the island's signature palafitos, houses built over the water on stilts.

I had been in two minds about whether to visit Chiloe at all, and put it right after the boat ride so I could delete it without much regret if the boat ran late. With the Evangelistas actually arriving early - at 1:30 am, although we didn't have to disembark until after breakfast - I went ahead and took the 9:15 bus from Puerto Montt. Unfortunately, the bus performed like a local, stopping anywhere and everywhere and we didn't arrive in Castro until after 1:00 pm. 

The scenery, open, rolling countryside, with stands of trees, brightened by showers of golden broom and occasional flame red nostros, reminded me somewhat of England. I can't say, however, that it looked either well populated or particularly prosperous. Castro appeared a little ramshackle, too, although hardly deserted.

I had thought to stay at the Palafito Hostel, which had a room, it was so far away from the center, on the other side of the estuary, that I would have had to take a taxi every time I wanted to go anywhere. Instead, I wound up at Don Miguel, where my friends had stayed a couple of years earlier but which I had been unable to contact. My room was fine, but the price of its good views was exposure to the afternoon sun, which turned it into a furnace.

The Swedish couple from the boat also stayed at Don Miguel, and my one full day in town we took a very local bus to a very local festival in Achoa, on another, smaller island. The Fiera de Cordera, or Festival of Lamb turned to be all about eating. A series of permanent wooden structures were the basis for barbecues, with the cooking staggered so that there was always one place with meat ready. A stage to one side was used for the opening speeches, and singing and dancing. So nice to find a festival with singing and dancing that seemed to be by locals for locals.

Chiloe is known for its wooden churches, and the one in Achoa was particularly fine. Unfortunately, no photographs were allowed inside, where the woodwork was especially worth recording (I did buy a postcard). The ceiling was ribbed, and the ribs decorated with fretwork, along with rosettes supporting the chandeliers. We also took a look at some handicrafts but they in no way lived up to the interiors of the churches. I had been able to take photos in Castro's less elaborate church, and noticed that in both places the Virgin Mary seemed more important than Jesus.

That evening I was walking the long way back to Don Miguel to check out the relics of the island's railroad in the Plazuela El Tren, when I heard my name called. After looking around, I looked up, and found that the Australian couple from the Evangelista were also in town and staying in a waterfront hotel. We all got together for a farewell dinner that evening. I had decided two nights were enough and was leaving in the morning for Puerto Varas. The Australians were planning to check out Ancud on their way north, and the Swedes had rented bikes for a 40 km ride.

That's Achao not Achoa. I am enjoying reading your blog as it is fun to see your photos as well. I love "on the road" blogs!

Thanks Huentetu - that's what happens when you don't copy edit....

I'm following along. Thanks!

I am following and enjoying as well - I've gone to Santiago three times for work and next time I'm determined to figure out a way to stay longer and do some traveling...feeling really guilty that I haven't explored more. You don't have to answer yet, but at some point can you make a list of your top three destinations?

Nov 19-21, 2012: Lazing by Lago Llanquihue

My first sight of Puerto Varas was not auspicious. This was partly due to the weather, cool and cloudy, and partly to the fact that I had been dumped unceremoniously at the side of the road out of town. I had taken another Cruz del Sur bus, this one heading north to Concepcion, but also acting as a local. I had noticed the conductor telling people when their stop was coming up, and assumed, wrongly, that he would tell me when we neared Puerto Varas. I also expected to recognize the bus station.

I was not warned, and the bus "station" was an unlabeled shed with a covered parking area. It was only when I noticed a "Puerto Varas, center of tourism" sign (or words to that effect), for the second time, that I thought to ask my seat mate if we were in Puerto Varas. Actually, we were leaving.

Fortunately, this was merely annoying, not disastrous, illustrating rule of travel number something or other: "if in doubt, always, always, ask". Not to mention the subsidiary rule: "if you're sure, ask anyway, you could be wrong". Never mind being embarrassed, better to look a fool than be one, and after all, you're never going to see these people again, right?

So, since the bus "station" was itself out of the center, I had a longish trek into town to locate the T.I., after which I had a further, uphill, trek to the Hostal Carla Minte. Friends had recommended this place, and I had a comfortable stay. Once I got oriented, I realized I could cut out a lot of walking by heading down (or up) the path along the waterfront (I do mean down, the Hostal, along with the aggressive, new, Hotel Cumbres, was up on a cliff).

The hostal helped improve my outlook. So did lunch, my first experience with a pollo y palto sandwich - chicken and avocado, and I just love avocado. And then the clouds lifted. Believe me, you go to Puerto Varas for the view. Not one, but two, snow capped volcanoes emerged from the clouds, and one, Osorno, was a stand-in for Mt. Fuji. I didn't get to see Fuji-san when I was in Japan, but now I didn't mind so much. While Volcan Calbuco wasn't a perfect cone, it was quite impressive, too.

Puerto Varas is a resort town, quite a pleasant one, but aside from admiring the view, there really isn't a whole lot to do. I did walk round (and up and down) to look at all the historic buildings touted by my guidebook and by the TI, but unlike one Fodor's poster (yestravel) was not particularly impressed. Most seemed to be in serious need of TLC.

I was also less than enthusiastic about Puerto Montt's Angelmo market. Of course, it didn't help that there was a cruise ship in port the day I visited, nor that I saw places advertising prices in USD as well as in the local currency. (It's one thing in Argentina, where currency controls make dollars especially valuable, and another in places where the local currency is fine.) Aside from a couple of alpaca scarves, none of the handicrafts caught my interest, and I found some repellent. The fish market was OK, but nothing out of the ordinary.

My trip to Frutillar was much more successful. As with Nice, I would probably hate the place in season, but when I got off the bus at 10:00 on a weekday morning, it was whisper quiet. Even when a few small tour groups showed up, they didn't stay long. The town is almost too clean and tidy, and almost too cute. Basically, it's just two long streets, parallel to the waterfront, and lined with Germanic buildings set in beautifully maintained gardens. I also visited the open air museum, along with several school groups.

As in Puerto Varas, Volcan Osorno was hidden by clouds in the morning, but as the day warmed, the clouds started to disappear. I realized that the reason most tours don't leave for Frutillar until 15:00 is that the views are best in the late afternoon, but I had no complaints. I ate another pollo y palta sandwich looking straight at Osorno, and then went back to Puerto Varas, where I had found a couple of places that fixed decent coffee. I still hadn't recovered from my first morning in Chile, when I discovered that my breakfast "coffee" was hot water and Nescafe - powdered Nescafe at that, not even the granules I carry for emergencies.

Oh dear - I recommended the Puerto Montt Angelmo market....but not for scarves. We found the many food stalls so interesting.

I hope I didn't recommend or oversell PV. Actually I don't remember being particularly impressed or loving PV. It was a lovely, scenic town where we spent one night before the lake crossing. We did have wonderful views of the volcanoes for almost all our time in the area and that was nice. what I did love was the paltas (avocado) in Chile.

Elizabeth - Likely I've seen too many markets. At least I still go look at them, while I rather hope I've seen my last pottery demo, glass blowing demo, silk making demo and carpet weaving demo.... Nothing especially against the Angelmo market, it just didn't seem that different from a lot of other markets.

crosscheck - I don't really have top destinations, just a long list of places I'd like to revisit, and another of places I haven't been to yet. Plus, I've been traveling for over ten years, and places change. The Myanmar I saw in 2004 isn't the Myanmar you'd see now. The Luang Prabang I loved in 2002 isn't the LP I saw in 2011. And the Beijing that started my love affair with Asia in 1997 disappeared years ago.

However, if you mean "which places would you want to visit if told you had only three trips before you die", I suppose the answer would be:

1. London
2. The Himalayas. Don't especially care which section, although if the situation in Pakistan were better I'd love to ride the Karakorum Highway again.
3. Central Asia. It's been top of my "want to visit" list for years, but somehow I never get there.

BTW, Patagonia has been a great trip, definitely get out of Santiago!

Hi Marija - nice to see you. Hope you're staying warm....

yestravel - no, I was going to Puerto Varas anyway. It seemed (and was) a better option than Puerto Montt for a stop between the Evangelistas and the bus-boat trek across the Andes. But I did notice that you wrote that you admired the old houses.

Certainly agree its a better option than PM. Correct, I thought some of the old German wooden houses on the hill near the Vicky Johnson Guest House were of interest.
In any case, I am so enjoying reliving our trip thru your TR. Always enjoy reading others perceptions of places I have travelled. Thanks for taking us along your journey. Can't wait to c what u think of the boat bus boat trip to Bariloche.

Nov 22, 2012: Bus, Boat, Bus, Boat... Day One

When I planned this trip, I was not thinking about water, aside from whether I could drink it from the tap. I had in mind an overview of southern South America, which I associated with mountains and savannah, but instead I encountered water, in various forms, everywhere. From the Atlantic Ocean in Rio, to the magnificent torrents at Iguazu and then the wide delta of the Rio Platte, from the wild, frozen rivers of the Southern Ice Cap to the Pacific Ocean, I had hardly spent a day away from water in one form or another. And now, after four days by Lago Llanquihue, I would spend a further thirteen visiting a few of the multitude that made up the Argentinian and Chilean Lake Districts, before revisiting the Pacific at Valparaiso and finally the Atlantic again in Florida.

We can't live without water, but it's power is formidable. Both too much and too little create havoc. However, the lakes I was about to see were simply notable for their beauty, and that of their setting. I could have taken a bus direct from Puerto Montt to Bariloche in Argentina, but instead I decided to spend around ten times as much to take the scenic route - four buses and three boats. Then I upped the price by deciding to spend a night in tiny Peulla instead of going straight through. It would not, out of high season, get me to Bariloche any earlier than 20:00, but it would give me more time in the mountains, and less travel per day.

Bus (or coach) number one takes you along the shore of Llanquihue from Puerto Varas to Petrohue (sit on the left for the best views). We had a short stop to visit the Petrohue falls, but this was really no fun, as several coaches all stopped at the same time. Maybe I have been on the road too long, but I am really starting to get annoyed by people who think their desire to have a photo of themselves in front of a sight trumps my desire to actually look at it.

The day had started cold and grey, but as our boat crossed Lago Todos los Santos the clouds lifted, and we had good views of the surrounding mountains. The big boat was only partly full, presumably a lot of the people at Petrohue had been on different excursions, though I can't imagine why the stops aren't staggered. As we neared Peulla the guide, who had been doing a good job with English, explained the excursions on offer. Having discovered in Hawaii that helicopter rides triggered my increasing fear of heights I had no need to consider that pricy option, and decided instead on an off-road ride. 

First, I needed to check-in and eat lunch. Peulla has two hotels, right next to each other. After reading the tripadvisor reviews I had reluctantly decided I should spring for the more expensive Natura, as the aging Peulla seemed overdue for major renovations. However, when I bought my tickets I was told that I should opt for the Peulla and I would probably be upgraded as too few people were traveling for it to be open. Good advice. I had a lovely room in the Natura with wrap-around windows framing a mountain view, and broad window seats. 

I invited the only other single, an Israeli woman, to join me for lunch. It turned out that she was going straight through, which was perhaps as well, as we wound up, thanks to a remark she made about Obama, having a political dispute. She seemed unaware that there was any issue with settlements in the West Bank, nor that extremists on both sides could be equally in error. 

The afternoon excursion wasn't stellar - too much time visiting hens and pigs and sheep for my taste - but the scenery when we left the farmyard and drove across a river to take a short ride on a pontoon boat was worth seeing. Then I trekked up a short path for a look at a nearby waterfall, concluding that it really hadn't been worth the effort. (Maybe Iguazu has set my standards too high!) I finished a satisfactory day with an excellent, if expensive, meal that included the best salad I'd had in weeks - avocado, hearts of palm, asparagus....

That lunch must have been exciting! Just as well she was moving on. We sometimes click with fellow travellers and sometimes don't.

We did the crossing years ago and opted to take our own picnic rather than lunch in Peulla on the one day crossing. I can still see the huge bag of Chilean cherries we brought with us. We had bread and cheese too. We walked up to the waterfall you mention to eat our picnic, sitting listening to the birds and the falls. It is a small waterfall but just fine for a summer picnic!

thursdaysd: congratulations on the great response to this thread!

Huentetu - well, we were both polite, and agreed that if I ran into her in Bariloche we would not talk politics (we were booked into the same place, but didn't meet for reasons that will become apparent later).

avrooster - thanks. Of course, on a long trip the thread does tend to get long. I hope you feel I've been doing justice to Patagonia.

Nov 23, 2012: Bus, Boat, Bus, Boat... Day Two

After all the good luck I had had with the weather, I could hardly complain when I woke in Peulla to a cold, cloudy morning. In fact, it had been so cold overnight (although not in my room) that there was fresh snow on the highest mountains. However, the weather never really improved, and so the views weren't up to those of Day One.

Day One, we had left Puerto Varas at 8:30, but the fourteen of us who had both overnighted in Peulla and were moving on to Bariloche, didn't have to board the next bus until 11:00 - and until we had cleared Chilean immigration and customs. The office was in a small building on the other side of the equally small school next to the Natura - I did mention that Peulla was tiny, didn't I?

This bus ride took us up, and up, to the actual border and then down to Puerto Frias. The high point of the pass is at 976 meters (3,200 feet), and we watched the trees and shrubs change as we ascended. Even on a bad weather day this was perhaps the best leg of the whole trip for me.

At Puerto Frias we were lined up by name to be stamped into Chile, and selected bags (luggage is handled for you) were given a very cursory inspection. But then we had to wait for the boat carrying the Bariloche to Puerto Varas passengers to arrive. And for all of them to be cleared into Chile. Then we were handed off to the Argentinian guide. Now, the Israeli woman had complained that the Chilean guides short-changed English speakers, giving them less information. I hadn't noticed that in Chile, nor in Buenos Aires, but I now encountered it in spades in the Argentinian Lake District, starting with this guide, who I found rather rude, as well. 

The boat ride to our next stop, Puerto Blest, was short, which was just as well, as starvation was setting in. I was not at all impressed by the hotel at Puerto Blest, and given the bad weather I was stuck inside it for several hours. The last boat ride is across Nahuel Huapi Lake, but there is only one boat a day out of season, and we were waiting for the people who had started the day in Puerto Varas to arrive. Although the boat was very big, it left packed, as apparently it's also used for people doing day trips out of Bariloche. 

Aside from a brief safety video, all the announcements on the boat, including information about the sights, were in Spanish only. Now, I realize that I was in a Spanish speaking country, and that many, if not most, of the tourists were from Spanish speaking countries, but the trip was marketed to international tourists, with English language flyers and an English language website, and I find it unacceptable that no attempt was made to provide English information. (After I complained to the woman distributing comment forms there was one brief announcement in English about which bus to board when leaving the boat. Since there were three buses in the designated location this wasn't very helpful.) There were occasions in Patagonia when I was reminded of the attitude of Parisians thirty years ago.

So, Day Two started out well, despite the weather, but then went downhill. You could just go up to Peulla and back to Puerto Varas, skipping the Argentinian legs altogether, but I thought the first bus and boat rides on Day Two the best of the trip.

I think your observations about water are very interesting, Thursdaysd. While I'm aware of the glaciers in Patagonia and the Brazilian coast, I guess water would not be the first thing that comes to mind when I think of South America. Instead, I picture the tall mountain peaks of the Andes, historic sites such as Machu Picchu, etc., but come to think of it, you're absolutely right about the water!

Status: I am back in Chile, in Pucon, with horrible weather. No views, and certainly no hiking. I feel sorry for the people who headed up Volcan Villarica before the weather broke. I thought about changing my plans - leaving early and stopping somewhere on the way to Valparaiso, but as when I made the itinerary in the first place there didn't seem to be anywhere worthwhile. So I am here until Tuesday evening when I take a night bus north. I might even get the TR caught up to date!!!

Nov 24, 2012: Arriving in Bariloche

My day, which had started well in Peulla, continued to deteriorate once the coach arrived in Bariloche. It was supposed to drop me at my hotel, which was on Salta, but the sulky guide informed me that the coach wasn't allowed on Salta, so I would have to walk. Up a very steep hill. Since I later saw a garbage truck on the street outside the hotel I have severe doubts about his veracity. 

I had some trouble getting a reservation in Bariloche, and came to find out that, despite my attempt to avoid a holiday weekend, I had been unsuccessful. Not that anyone seemed to know what the holiday was for. I had finally reserved a superior double at the Tango Inn Downtown, another HI hostel, based on my guidebook, and on tripadvisor reviews, which spoke well of the superior doubles. After I checked in, somewhat out of breath, I carted my bag up four flights of stairs (OK, it was a hostel), to room 15.

Since the curtains were drawn, I turned on the light. Or, rather, I tried to turn on the light. None of the lights worked. Pausing only to check that there was in fact a view of the lake, I went back downstairs. The guy on the front desk claimed surprise, and collected some light bulbs before coming back upstairs with me. I was not surprised when the lights didn't work for him either, and I had no faith in someone showing up to fix the problem at 8:00 pm on a holiday Friday. The standard double he gave me instead looked miserable, minimally furnished and battered, and that was before I found I couldn't flush the toilet. I went out to look for another room, but not with optimism.

I passed up the expensive Edelweiss, and two places with "Closed" signs, struck out at one place, noted a twin available at another hostel, and then scored a room with a lake view for the next three nights at the Hotel Tirol. I figured I could survive one night at the Tango Inn, and after the discount for cash, and the discount on the exchange rate for paying in dollars, the rate at the Tirol was not that much higher, and the room and the hotel in a different class altogether. Winding up in such a nice place was pure luck, as even if I been given a functioning superior double at the Tango Inn it didn't look particularly welcoming.

Then, as with the meal at Casimiro Bigua in El Calafate, a bad day was significantly improved by dinner. It took me a while to find a restaurant, as the touristy main street seemed to offer nothing but chocolate shops, so I entered La Marmite with considerable relief. Their mushroom soup was absolutely delicious, and especially welcome after several unfortunate encounters with mushrooms of the canned variety. The Zurich style beef was good too. In fact, I liked the restaurant so well I ate there three of my four nights in town, although I should also mention that the bife de chorizo at El Boliche de Alberto was fine, and that I would have eaten at Familia Weiss the fourth night, if anyone had paid attention to me when I entered.

The lake view - from both rooms - was worth paying for. I had a run of clear, sunny days, and there were times when the mountain tops were so sharp-edged against the sky that they looked like cut-outs. I think the view would have been even better further west at Lao Lao, but there would have been fewer services, and probably no cheap places to stay. The famous Hotel Lao Lao certainly wasn't cheap. 

But there were even better views on offer.

Nov 23-26, 2012: A Most Beautiful View

Anyone walking down Mitre Street in Bariloche could be forgiven for thinking that you visited the town in order to eat chocolate. Maybe some people do, but a better reason is to admire the views from the neighboring mountains. A lot of sites claim that National Geographic rated the view from Cerro Campanario as one of the ten best in the world. I can't find any verification for that on the National Geographic web site, but having seen the view I agree it's possible.

I reached the top of Cerro Campanario, some thousand feet above the town, the old fashioned way. I hiked up. Most people rode the chair lift, but not only was I in need of exercise, I hate those things. The older I get, the worse my fear of heights becomes. Unfortunately, the path turned out to be both very steep in places, and also covered in ash from the 2011 eruption of Volcan Puyehue, and without a hiking stick I had doubts about my ability to walk back down.

I spent a lot of quality time at the top, partly outside, and partly eating lunch in the cafeteria, with a marvelous view. But I couldn't stay there forever. I eventually decided that the chair lift would be the lesser of the two evils, but I spent the entire seven minute ride with my eyes shut, holding on for dear life.

At that point, I should have quit while I was ahead. But there were two more mountains, still higher, Otto and Catedral. Checking with the TI, I found out that Catedral, a major ski center, wasn't open, but I could take an enclosed ride up Otto. Big mistake. I was thinking funicular, but the only difference between the chair lift and the cable cars was that the cars were enclosed and held four. They were still suspended in mid-air. This time I rode both up and down with my eyes shut, and since Otto was a thousand feet higher than Campanario, the ride was longer. Despite including Bariloche itself, I didn't think the views measured up, although they might be better in the morning.

Not until I sat down in Otto's cafeteria did I realize that it rotated. It was here that I discovered licuado de frambuesa, a sort of raspberry smoothie.   I had mine made with water rather than milk, and indulged in them several days running (making up for not enough veggies), until the acid started affecting me.

My other excursion from Bariloche, a boat ride to a forest and to Isla Victoria was less successful, being mass tourism of the worst kind. Besides, I'd already seen a lot of the lake. Once again, all the announcements on the boat, aside from the safety briefing, were in Spanish, but one young guide did take the double handful of English speakers on our own guided walks. I was intrigued to learn that while most conifers are hermaphrodites, monkey puzzle trees are either female (large bushy cones), or male (very small cones). The guide thought the trees, Araucaria araucana, were called monkey trees, but I've always known them as monkey puzzle trees. They are much more impressive in their native habitat than in English gardens.

There's not a lot to see in Bariloche itself, aside from the self-consciously Alpine buildings round the main square. These date from the 1930s, when tourism was replacing agriculture as the foundation of the economy. The town was established in the 1890s, with a number of Austrian and German settlers, which may explain why some Nazi war criminals found sanctuary there. (Although I refuse to believe the fantasy that they included Adolf Hitler and Eva Braun.) I was not actually aware of this history when I planned to visit Bariloche, and have now found this article of interest: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/education/3335016/Nazis-Argentine-village-hide-out-pulls-in-tourists.html

fascinating artle, KW...I was in Barilcche in the spring (fall) of 1994...Priebke was arrested just a few weeks later. An old high school girlfriend of mine, lives in Sao Paulo but also has an elegant estate near Llao Llao (looks like she married real well after our teen age fling!)...she had told me about his presence and predicted that his expected arrest was imminent. She was right.
stu

"article"...

One of these days, maybe, just maybe, Stu will post a thread telling us all about his "teen age flings" and that kind of thing! LOL!!!

We are anxiously waiting!

Just kidding, in case someone wonders...

Status: I made it home on Thursday, and am pretty much caught up. Will try to finish the blog before the end of the year....

Nov 27-29, 2012: And More Lakes

From Bariloche I was tempted to head south to El Bolson. The guidebooks
claimed that it made a good base for moderate hikes, and had an
excellent craft market. And that it was a hippy hangout. I was quite
surprised in Patagonia to run into several relics of the 60s, but they
weren't high on my sightseeing list. Also, if I went south I'd just
have to come back north to Bariloche. Since I saw few handicrafts of
interest in my time in South America, I'm glad I decided to skip El
Bolson. Instead I headed north for San Martin de Los Andes.

I could have taken one of several buses on the new, paved road via
Rinconada, but I was tempted by the scenic Seven Lakes route. While
one bus a day did go that way, I decided instead to sign up for a day
tour from Bariloche, getting off in San Martin. While noticeably more
expensive, this would get me much better sightseeing, plus photo ops.
Oddly, all tours from Bariloche cost the same, regardless of which
company you pick. With no good basis of comparison I left it to the
Hotel Tirol to book me, and was pleased with their choice. I shared a
small min-van with just a dozen others, although once again the guide
had little English.

We made a pit stop in Villa la Angostura, which seemed just as
touristy as Bariloche, and I was glad I had passed on staying there,
even though the ash from the 2011 volcano had been cleared. The lakes
were indeed scenic, and efforts were underway to pave the gravel road
that connected them. By this time I had seen so many lakes that I was
a little disappointed with San Martin's lake. Unlike Bariloche, which
sprawls along the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi, San Martin is at the
very end of Lago Lacar, and most of the town follows the valley away
from the lake. There's a pier, and a couple of cafes, but not much
else on the lake shore itself.

My first full day in town I set off to hike to one of the viewpoints.
This was a little harder than I expected, as the trail, through the
edge of Parque Nacional Lanin, kept splitting, and was largely lacking
blazes. Still, since I had started early, I had the eventual
viewpoint, Bandurria, almost entirely to myself. I ate my lunch in
splendid isolation with a splendid view.

I had had a lot of luck with the weather on this trip, but I must have
lost the talisman on the hike to Bandurria. My second day in San
Martin was too wet for hiking, or for the boat ride I had planned, or
even for admiring the many rose bushes that decorated the streets and
parks. Fortunately, most of the cafes had wifi, and I carried my iPad
from coffee to lunch to more coffee, umbrella in hand.

Checking the weather forecast was not encouraging, though. Next day I
was taking a bus to Pucon, in Chile, and I had hoped to  see Volcan
Lanin on the border. Not to mention Volcan Villarica from Pucon itself.

Have really enjoyed reading your adventures...brought back some fond memories of Argentina. Thank you for taking the time to write.

Thursdaysd arrives home on a Thursday! Amazing planning! I have enjoyed reading about your trip and the photos on your blog. San Martin, Pucon and the seven lakes drive were a favourite for me. I can stil remember the amazing goat asado restaurants in SM! Shame the weather has not been working out in the area..

Surely Patagonian lamb, not goat! Did you eat at Posta Criolla restaurant?

I believe Crellston is talking about our "chivito" (young goat), not abour our "cordero" (lamb).

Chivito is good too, but I hadn't seen much of it in San Martin. Now I am hungry for either.

Have enjoyed following you along and reliving wonderful memories of our trip. Like crellston San Martin was a favorite. Have to say was a bit disappointed in the 7 lakes drive -- maybe too much fantastic scenery preceded it. We figured the construction of the road might be completed in our lifetime or not. We had such beautiful weather and I appreciate it more given the weather you seen to have had upon occasion. Hope you got good views of the volcanoes.

Saw the goat asado in SM, but didn't partake.

Thursday arrival was pure chance, crellston, I just wanted to get home before the holiday rush started.

I had the same feeling, yestravel, the Seven Lakes didn't live up to the scenery further south. Perhaps a reason to start in the north rather than the south.

I did eat at Posta Criolla, but I ate steak. I like my meat medium rare, and it seemed that lamb (not to mention fish) was always overcooked for my taste. I also ate pizza at La Nonna, and my new favorite pollo y palta sandwich down near the pier.

Alas, the title for the Pucon piece will involve rain. Lots of it.

Going north to south is probably a good idea. Unfortunately, to my continuing regret, we diverted to the east coast and Peninusular Valdez to see the whale and so missed a huge chunk of the west coast.
I can't recall the name of the restaurant I was thinking of but on checking my blog, it seems that huentetu may have been correct and it may have been lamb rather than goat. What I do recall is the impressive sight of these beasts being slowly roasted on vertical spits around a log fire in the window of the restaurant.

I agree Thursdaysd, overlooking of their amazing meat was a problem. I started out asking for what I thought was medium rare "a punto" this worked occasionally but then a Spanish friend kindly wrote out the various terms for me which helped a lot:

rare – rojo intenso y sangrante en el centro
medium rare – rosado con y bien jugoso
medium – a punto pero todavia jugoso
well done – bien cocida

November 27-30, 2012: Rained Out in Pucon

Soaring to an average height of 13,000 feet, the Andes present a formidable barrier. You can cross, but only in certain places. I’d already traveled east to west from El Calafate to Puerto Natales, and west to east from Puerto Varas to Bariloche. Now I would go back west from San Martin to Pucon, partly on gravel, over the 3,600 foot Mamuil Malal pass. (I was saving the reportedly spectacular crossing from Santiago to Mendoza for my next trip.)

I hadn’t been able to find much information on the bus connections, and was saddened to learn, when I reached San Martin, that the one and only daily bus left at 6:00am. Still, the Wesley Hosteria provided me with a breakfast sandwich, and the rain held off while I trekked the six long blocks to the bus station. But as we climbed towards the pass I saw clouds ahead, and thought it unlikely we would see much of Volcan Lanin, which towers over the border. Turned out we had just a fugitive glimpse, as we shivered in the wind outside the border post.

I had hoped for more comfortable volcano viewing in Pucon. I had chosen to break my northward journey in Pucon in large part because of photos showing Volcan Villarica almost in the town. I had therefore reserved a room with a balcony and a straight-on view of the volcano at the Geronimo. I should have saved my money. I could see part of the volcano the day I arrived, and again the day I left, but not all of it, and in between all I could see were clouds. And rain. At one point the weather site I consulted claimed 60 inches would fall over the weekend.

Most people use Pucon as a base for energetic outdoor activities. Climbing Volcan Villarica. White water rafting. Hiking, cycling, riding, fishing. You name it, there’s probably an adventure outfitter in Pucon eager to help you do it. I certainly wasn’t planning on climbing the volcano, but I thought about some hiking in the National Park, a visit to some waterfalls, maybe the thermal baths. But not in the rain. Even the thermal baths were off limits, as I hadn’t brought a swimsuit, and couldn’t find one in town to fit me.

After I realized that the weather forecasts were right, and before I bought my bus ticket out, I considered cutting my stay short. But, just as when I planned this part of the trip, there was nowhere between Pucon and Valparaiso that seemed a good stopping off place. I was attracted by the wineries, but I expected to tour them from Valparaiso. There were more thermal spas on the way, but none seemed to have good public transport. The reports on the coastal cities had been discouraging. Chillan, with murals and an outdoor market, was the likeliest candidate, but lacked good accommodation, and would mean two long days on the bus instead of one long night.

So, I stayed on in Pucon. I found good coffee at the Cafe de P, and good company – along with tortilla soup and chicken and avocado sandwiches – at the American-owned Latitud 39. I took a look at yet-another-lake – as in San Martin, the town turned its back on the water front. I marveled at the number of outfitters cheek-by-jowl down the main street. And I spent a lot of time listening to ebooks and playing cards on my iPad.

December 5-9, 2012: Valparaiso: The Good.

I had heard, and read, a lot of good things about the long distance buses in South America, at least in the pricier classes. So I booked the best available class, salon cama, and boarded the bus to Valparaiso with some hope of a good night's sleep. I guess Pucon was too far off the main routes for the best buses, because I was really not impressed. For starters, no food was served (aside from a feeble attempt at breakfast), so I boarded with a pollo y palta from Latitud 39. Then, there was nowhere to put carry-on bags besides the floor, and the leg room was just too short for me to stretch out. At least the section was quiet, and I did get to sleep off and on. On balance, I'd say it was better than economy class on an airplane but worse than a couchette, never mind a sleeper, on a train.

Things improved when I got to my B&B in Valparaiso. The Yellow House provided not just the usual safe place to stash my bag, and coffee, but breakfast, and even more welcome, a shower in the shared bathroom. When the owner suggested I join a walking tour of the city I was in good enough shape to agree. The tour, led by a lively young Brazilian (Boris, who also teaches cooking classes), took us from the touristy main square to the fishing boats and market (and seriously photogenic sea lions and pelicans), on and off trams and buses and funiculars, up to murals and the best restaurant section, and down again, and provided plenty of information along with the sights. Including areas to avoid when walking alone.

Valparaiso, spread over many hills beside a sparkling bay, is a city that has much to like. (Provided you overlook the port area, which it is rather hard to do.) Architecture always has a lot to do with whether I like a city, and while my favorite Art Nouveau was in limited supply, the many brightly painted houses and a scattering of landmark buildings more than made up for it. The colorful metal buildings that had been crammed into one area of Buenos Aires were here splashed across multiple quarters. The Yellow House, where I was staying, could easily be picked out on its eastern hillside, below the Navy Museum, from down on the waterfront.

I spent one morning visiting the just reopened Palacio Baburizza. Although it houses the city's Belles Artes museum, I ignored the paintings but admired the architecture. It was even worth the trek uphill, made necessary because the relevant funicular had yet to reopen after the last earthquake. But even better was La Sebastiana, the Nobel prize-winning poet Naruda's Valparaiso home.

I reached La Sebastiana, perched on a hillside well above the bay, in a shared taxi that charged upwards at full throttle. Once there I was able to dodge the tour groups and absorb the house at my leisure. And between the magnificent views, and the magnificently quirky contents, it was worth every peso of the admission price. Unfortunately, photos weren't allowed inside.

While Valparaiso is a working city, just up the coast is Vina del Mar, the area's playground. While I had no intention of joining the crowd courting sunburn on the sands, I had a good time nonetheless. I started at the Archaeological Museum, where I was delighted to get a look at authentic moai without having to trek out to Easter Island. After rejecting a number of eating places (including a surprising nmber of US chains) I ate a leisurely (and expensive) lunch at waterfront El Parron with excellent views, and then walked south along the promenade to the 20th century Castillo Wulff. The interior of the castle wasn't much, but again the views were good. As were the views at the Sheraton, where I indulged in a caipirinha on the rear deck, overlooking yet another beach.

I finished my day at the beach in the botanical gardens, where I was sorry to find the Palacio Vergara closed for renovations. Then I was whisked back to Valparaiso on the excellent metro.

It sounds to me as if you got a semi-cama at best and even then they have luggage storage above your head for a small bag. Dinner is usually optional on that route and just about everyone opts out and brings a sandwich as it is no great shakes. Breakfast is just as bad.

It is a shame you had so much rain in Pucón. Actually soaking in a thermal pool while it rains is quite nice!

December 7th, 2012: Valparaiso: The Not Good

The walking tour of Valparaiso that the owner of the Yellow House had recommended had been so good I had little hesitation in signing up for another tour. I needed a tour for the wineries south of town, and while I had planned to visit Neruda's seaside house at Isla Negra by bus, I was OK with including it on the tour. A young couple who had also been staying at the Yellow House signed up for the same Friday tour. They had a flight out of Santiago that night, and the plan was for them to catch a bus after we visited the wineries.

Alas, Michael the German Pirate was no Boris. He apparently regarded guiding as a hobby rather than a job, although I know hobbyists who are far more engaged and efficient. The tour got off to an exceedingly slow start. We had not gone far before stopping at a house that one of Michael's friends was renovating. This was mostly an opportunity for him to visit with his friend, while we wandered round a building that was certainly in need of renovation, and was also stuffed with second-hand toys.

Then a drive through a mostly deserted seaside development was followed by a visit to a beautiful and also mostly deserted beach. I would have liked coffee at this point but the one functioning beach shack only offered cold drinks. Then we stopped at another house belonging to another of Michael's friends. Again, we hung around while Michael visited with his friend, after which we were shown the friend's "museum", of interest only to fans of model ships and stuffed animals (the ones in the Vina del Mar museum were better).

By the time we finally arrived in Isla Negra and had eaten lunch I was wondering why I had signed up for this odyssey, but so far I was better off than the other couple. Michael had just discovered that the bus they had planned to take wasn't running, and they would have to leave from Isla Negra and skip the wineries. Now, back when I was planning this trip, a poster on Fodors had warned me that the road between Valparaiso and Santiago would be closed from mid afternoon Friday December 7th to the evening of Saturday December 8th for a major religious procession. I had scheduled an extra night in Valparaiso to allow for it, and then forgotten the matter. So, a Fodors' poster knew about the annual closure, but a supposedly professional tour guide did not.

Michael went off to check on bus times, and we visited the house. Perhaps I should have settled for just one of Neruda's houses, as I found this one disappointing. The location, and the views, were indeed magnificent, but the rooms felt claustrophobic. Too many over-sized figureheads in the living room, for sure, and the ceilings seemed low. Afterwards we left the young couple, and their luggage, at a "bus stop" (a short line of people at the side of the road), and finally took off for the wineries. When we reached the first it was already 4:50, and I noticed on the sign outside that it would close at 5:30. Would we only have time for one winery?

Worse. No wineries at all! All the wineries were closed in honor of the procession. I was furious! How can a tour guide take you on a tour without checking that the places you're going to visit are actually open? After I pointed this out, and said that I had only taken the tour because I wanted to visit wineries, we drove back to Valparaiso in silence, where Michael charged me 6,000 pesos instead of the full price, claiming that this was what it would have cost me to visit Isla Negra by bus.

So, avoid tours by the German Pirate. You might also avoid the Port View room at the Yellow House. It was very dark, and the view not much. In addition, it was on the same floor as the kitchen and dining room, and when an inconsiderate Polish visitor decided to fix a meal at 11:00 at night I could hear every move. The house's location had disadvantages too. The views from the top floor were so good because the house was at one end of town, but there was a real shortage of eating and drinking places nearby. To get to the best area for restaurants you needed to take the funicular down the hill, catch a tram into town, and ride another funicular up again. Walking would have been possible, except that part of the area between the funiculars wasn't safe. The funicular for the Yellow House didn't feel that safe, either. The carriage may well be the original, from 1893, and not only were there gaps between the boards, the whole thing shook.

Overall, despite this one thoroughly disappointing day, I enjoyed my stay in Valparaiso. I'm glad I've seen the town, but I don't have any great urge to go back.

I am interested to read your impressions of the German Pirate because, in my opinion, he has been getting away with "tours" which are not tours for a long time now. Although Tripadvisor is full of testimonials by one off posters who praise his tours, I really think it is a case of "The Emperor's New Clothes". I sincerely hope that couple caught their flight because traffic was going through a detour north which would have added at least an hour to their bus ride. The procession has been happening as long as I can remember and everyone knows that the highway closes the afternoon before the 8th.

I am glad you snatched some enjoyment from the jaws of disappointment.

Yes, I was surprised to read the reviews on tripadvisor. I will be writing one myself when I finish the TR. It will rate him rather differently....

I think the couple should have been OK, they had several hours.

I will look forward to reading it, although it is bound to be followed by a slew of testimonials!

I don't know anything about Valparaíso and couldn't care less about the German Pirate's fame, but I went to TA for the latest forum posts about him and did NOT find the proportion of favorable comments from one-time posters particularly high.

"Elsewhere" there is a guy who mostly built his business via fake comments on the web and they made him "D.E.". He is still at it.

December 8-9, 2012: Sampling Santiago

Thanks to the religious procession that closed the road from Valparaiso, I only spent one night in Santiago, although since my flight to Miami left at nearly midnight I had a day and a half to check out the city. The Yellow House had recommended the Rio Amazonas, and it was well situated just south of the restaurants in Bellavista (although I had to skirt a small riot on the way back from dinner). The friendly staff even let me shower after my day's sightseeing. But my room was London-small, and without AC, and I had some doubts about the sheets.

Unfortunately, the one place I really wanted to visit in Santiago, the Museo Chileno de Arte Precolumbino, was closed for renovation, which is why I had already decided I should start my next trip to South America back in Santiago. Meanwhile, I checked off the Museo Historico Nacional - missable aside from a temporary exhibition of fancy dress - and the Museo de la Memoria y de los Derechos Humanos - definitely NOT missable. I spent much longer in the second museum, absorbing an excellently presented history of the horrors of the military dictatorship, which lasted from 1973 to 1990, before wandering through part of the neighboring park, full of families enjoying themselves.

I also wandered around a fair amount of central Santiago, enjoying a varied collection of buildings that ranged from Spanish baroque to very modern. I made it up the smaller of the two hills, Santa Lucia, noted the parlous state of the river Mapocho, and tried to avoid the lunchtime crowds in the huge Plaza de Armas. I had thought about staying in the Barrio Paris Londres and was disappointed to find how small it was. I approved of the metro, but didn't try the buses. I even bought the first and only souvenir of the whole trip, although the copper fish I found in the Rio Amazonas' gift shop was intended as a present.

As a last extravagance I took a taxi out to the airport. US-bound passengers were sent to a separate security area, where we had to take off our shoes. Then, after we had handed in our boarding passes and were headed for the jet-way, we all had to undergo a second check of hand luggage. No liquids, none, nada, aside from the infamous quart bag, could be carried on to the plane. The water I had bought after clearing security was firmly, if politely, confiscated. Good thing I hadn't bought any duty free alcohol or perfume! This security theater has become beyond ridiculous.

At least the plane was only one third full, allowing us the almost forgotten luxury of spreading out, and I did get some sleep on the way to Miami. I had enjoyed visiting South America, although the scenery easily out-shone the cities, and already planned to go back to Santiago to travel through the northwest section - Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, Colombia...

Note: OK folks, that's it for this trip, although if/when I get the photos sorted out on smugmug I'll post a link. I did spend a couple of nights in Florida, staying with friends, before I flew back to NC, but I'll only post that on my blog. I wasn't too happy about getting home: I had a hearing test (failed), a biopsy on a lump on my arm (clear), and an over-eager 24 year-old backed into my car as I was leaving a parking lot (I need two new doors), all in the same week. However, I'm already starting to read up for the next trip.

Bravo, thursdaysd!

I hope you'll be back in Argentina soon!

Happy 2013 and have those doors fixed! LOL!!!

Thanks, avrooster, best wishes to you, too.

I saw the insurance adjuster yesterday, and he's OK with the estimate I got. Likely to take up to two weeks for the work, though.

I'm figuring the next trip starts with a flight to Santiago, followed by a bus to Mendoza, and then points north. I'll be soliciitng info on visiting the wineries.

Lots of info about the wineries in the forums.

For Salta, I suggest you research "Angie", a great independent local guide, using TA's search feature.

As you know, there are some wineries in Salta.

Just signed up on your blog to receive updates . . . so far, only read about two entries but I am hooked! We are the same approx. age and have the same travel philosophy, I'm loving your reports!

Thank you,
Sandy (in Denton)

Thanks Sandy! I have one more report to put up on Florida, and then I have to concentrate on planning the next trip.

sandy_b: let's see you travel from the lone star state to BA soon!

Photos! I finally finished culling the (many) photos from this trip. They're here:

http://kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/South-America-2012

KW...an outstanding report which I've enjoyed following. Pix are superb..brought back a flood of memories for me. Happy all turned out so well for you. Now! Where to next??
stu

Hi there, Stu!

Did you notice avrooster is featured somewhere (Nov. 3) in this great report?

When should we expect you in BA?