Patagonia Trip Report: Kayaking, Riding and Hiking in the South
Sep 28th, 2014, 07:44 AM
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Patagonia Trip Report: Kayaking, Riding and Hiking in the South
Returning to the highlands! Visiting Our Dear Friend to get the trip started with a bang in BsAs, spending time at no less than four estancias, and kayaking with whales off the Valdez Peninsula. This is making up for what was too cold and out of season to do in May of 2013.
Will be spending time this November/early December with dear friends riding criollos in Bariloche, BsAs, El Condor and Nibepo- those who have already gone to El Condor or Nibepo I'd love to hear your thoughts. Glaciar outfitters you recommend. There is plenty of time to explore. I leave November 6th. Input from all much appreciated. Lots of time in El Calafate, so anyone have suggestions on side trips from there?
Thanks to all the experienced Argentinian travelers on here!
Will be spending time this November/early December with dear friends riding criollos in Bariloche, BsAs, El Condor and Nibepo- those who have already gone to El Condor or Nibepo I'd love to hear your thoughts. Glaciar outfitters you recommend. There is plenty of time to explore. I leave November 6th. Input from all much appreciated. Lots of time in El Calafate, so anyone have suggestions on side trips from there?
Thanks to all the experienced Argentinian travelers on here!
Sep 30th, 2014, 06:27 AM
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I am going to look into both- right now I'm at the airport en route to Croatia for three weeks. I do hope to see the Glacier, that is a not to be missed, and as for El Chalten, I have got the bus ticket but the timing is an issue. I'd so like to go! I'm going to hang onto it just in case. AvRooster, since I have some time before my flight this morning I will look the Hielo y Aventura folks up. Might as well. I've got a big pile of cold green grapes here to consume and a full battery...
Sep 30th, 2014, 06:48 AM
#5
I didn't do the ice trekking (marginal on age and been on a glacier before) but I did two different boat rides and recommend both - they are standard itineraries, just ask your hotel or walk down the main street and pick an outfit. (Click on my name for my Patagonia TR.)
Oct 1st, 2014, 08:02 PM
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Thanks again thursdaysd. I will check your TR. Zagreb is a bit cloudy and grey, but happily the fruit markets are chock full of bright and colorful fruits and vegetables. Still looking for a source of yogurt...
Oct 1st, 2014, 10:22 PM
#7
Surprised you're having trouble finding yogurt! At the risk of teaching my grandmother to suck eggs, dId you try a supermarket?
Supposed to rain today here in Transylvania, but clear up tomorrow. I think I'm due a down day anyway.
Supposed to rain today here in Transylvania, but clear up tomorrow. I think I'm due a down day anyway.
Oct 2nd, 2014, 08:08 AM
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I finally found a tiny shop right next to the open fruit market that featured lots of yogurts next to the meats. The selection was great and all I had to do next was track down a spoon.
My only challenge is to find a place where I can get clear of the cigarette smoke. Here it's impossible unless I stay in my rooms. There is a big supermarket on an intersection that I misread as a department store. Probably not good: I found my beloved Bueno chocolates in there. Hold me back....
My only challenge is to find a place where I can get clear of the cigarette smoke. Here it's impossible unless I stay in my rooms. There is a big supermarket on an intersection that I misread as a department store. Probably not good: I found my beloved Bueno chocolates in there. Hold me back....
Oct 8th, 2014, 11:56 PM
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Thursdaysd I am wrapping up my first week plus in the islands of Croatia and with the exception of the omnipresent smoke, this has been a wonder.
I just did my first bungee jump here off the tallest bridge in Croatia. Gawd what fun. The girl ahead of me was sweating and gripping the instructor's hands until they turned white and then she chickened out, had a smoke, tried again, broke a sweat, hyperventilated, and chickened out for good. Two people later it's my turn.
The guys strapped me in, gave me instructions, I stepped up, smiled at the horizon and swan dived off. The good news is that two of my group buds got photos. I LOVE to fly. Guy in the dinghy below me high fived me and said it was one of the top three dives all summer. Now that made up for dumping myself in my sea kayak twice- on the shore no less- and nearly falling over on a hill on my mountain bike. Hilarious. I've been on two learning curves all week on two brand new sports so my group likely sees me as a total klutz (they'd be right)- but one thing I can do is hit the air. Us cranky old skydivers, 100 feet is nuthin' man.
Avrooster, I am around, but soon to be in the mountains riding and away from wi-fi.
I just did my first bungee jump here off the tallest bridge in Croatia. Gawd what fun. The girl ahead of me was sweating and gripping the instructor's hands until they turned white and then she chickened out, had a smoke, tried again, broke a sweat, hyperventilated, and chickened out for good. Two people later it's my turn.
The guys strapped me in, gave me instructions, I stepped up, smiled at the horizon and swan dived off. The good news is that two of my group buds got photos. I LOVE to fly. Guy in the dinghy below me high fived me and said it was one of the top three dives all summer. Now that made up for dumping myself in my sea kayak twice- on the shore no less- and nearly falling over on a hill on my mountain bike. Hilarious. I've been on two learning curves all week on two brand new sports so my group likely sees me as a total klutz (they'd be right)- but one thing I can do is hit the air. Us cranky old skydivers, 100 feet is nuthin' man.
Avrooster, I am around, but soon to be in the mountains riding and away from wi-fi.
Oct 24th, 2014, 05:57 PM
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Soooo close to takeoff. Avrooster, I am doing my best to book that Big Ice program but am having difficulty organizing it in advance. Not for any reason than I can't seem to scare anyone up. Was told to deal with local agencies in El Calafate- so far, no luck whatsoever. All the websites are in Spanish and mine is simply not good enough to read them. My computer doesn't translate them. Also tried writing my hostel but no response from them either. I know the dates, got no pushback to book it with the organizers ( they didn't ask the pertinent question) so now it's just finding someone I can book with. I am taking any and all advice.
Oct 25th, 2014, 02:58 AM
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Hi, JH!
I agree with thursdaysd. Booking it as soon as you get there should be OK and, besides, that way you can pay in cash, instead of with your CC, saving +40%.
If the age limit thing is a matter of insurance, as it may well be, you may have to settle for the mini-trekking:
http://www.hieloyaventura.com/2010/e...ito-moreno.asp
and the boat rides such as
http://travel.4rentargentina.com/cal.../rios-de-hielo
I'll see if I can get the Hielo y Aventura people to answer the damn phone. They have a monopoly, so why should they bother with answering e-mail? LOL!!! But booking as soon as you get there should be perfectly OK, particularly as it's not yet high season.
Anyway, JH, you'll have a great time in my country's wonderful South!
I agree with thursdaysd. Booking it as soon as you get there should be OK and, besides, that way you can pay in cash, instead of with your CC, saving +40%.
If the age limit thing is a matter of insurance, as it may well be, you may have to settle for the mini-trekking:
http://www.hieloyaventura.com/2010/e...ito-moreno.asp
and the boat rides such as
http://travel.4rentargentina.com/cal.../rios-de-hielo
I'll see if I can get the Hielo y Aventura people to answer the damn phone. They have a monopoly, so why should they bother with answering e-mail? LOL!!! But booking as soon as you get there should be perfectly OK, particularly as it's not yet high season.
Anyway, JH, you'll have a great time in my country's wonderful South!
Oct 26th, 2014, 09:16 AM
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No worries. Hielo told me that they only had a few bookings left for the days I was asking for, which is why I was trying to organize it in advance. The mini trekking is LOTS AND LOTS of tourists, to which I have severe allergies, and I wouldn't even go in that circumstance. Just trying to work with what information I have. America del Sur hostel has the Big Ice offering, and so of course I wrote them, and they of course didn't write back. Sigh.
thursdaysd how is Romania??
Can't wait to see the lovely south, Avrooster.
thursdaysd how is Romania??
Can't wait to see the lovely south, Avrooster.
Oct 26th, 2014, 09:22 AM
#16
See: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...a-take-two.cfm
Short answer, it was good, especially Brasov. Am now in Vienna, which is packed...
Short answer, it was good, especially Brasov. Am now in Vienna, which is packed...
Nov 6th, 2014, 04:44 PM
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As I'd expect, but probably lovely, which I'd also expect. I am now at the Houston Airport awaiting the flight to BsAs, and of course Our Dear Friend is admonishing me for not engaging him in some of my local negotiations (he's right as usual) but that's all right. I cannot wait to get out to Dos Hermanos, which is going to happen swiftly. AvRooster was able to track down and secure an alternative trip to the glaciar which did not demand that I be fifty, only that I be fit. Thankyouverymuch. I got special poles- necessary anyway for other sports- for this trip, and loaded up some cool pants, and will be clambering about the glaciar on Thanksgiving.
Recently I had a roommate settle in and that has made leaving the house so much easier. She and her cat now care for the plants, the house is much loved, and I love knowing there's a warm body there. And that my Bronco games will be recorded (win or lose). Another thing to leave behind are acidic election ads and invasive calls, another good reason to get on an airplane for parts known and un-. While important in some ways, in fifty years..?
Fair warning for all going to Dos Hermanos, Ana will work you over for your food likes and dislikes and make sure you get them. I'm glad I didn't tell her about Bueno Bars. Wait. I did. Drat.
That's okay. They're like eating heaven in 157 calorie packs. I'll work 'em off. Dos Hermanos is so close to BsAs and yet so far away. A lovely pool, gorgeous grounds and big friendly dogs. While this traveler might be comatose for the first ride, I will willingly be tied on and go out and say hello to the huge friendly water buffalo in the field. I think I recall his name as Tito.
Ana has gained a grandchild since I was there in May 2013 so I am sure to see many photos and perhaps be able to see her, too. The best of this - as it always is- is seeing friends in far places again, catching up, eating good food, having adventures and lots and lots of laughter. AvRooster has promised to come out and harrass me in a few days.
He'd better.
Recently I had a roommate settle in and that has made leaving the house so much easier. She and her cat now care for the plants, the house is much loved, and I love knowing there's a warm body there. And that my Bronco games will be recorded (win or lose). Another thing to leave behind are acidic election ads and invasive calls, another good reason to get on an airplane for parts known and un-. While important in some ways, in fifty years..?
Fair warning for all going to Dos Hermanos, Ana will work you over for your food likes and dislikes and make sure you get them. I'm glad I didn't tell her about Bueno Bars. Wait. I did. Drat.
That's okay. They're like eating heaven in 157 calorie packs. I'll work 'em off. Dos Hermanos is so close to BsAs and yet so far away. A lovely pool, gorgeous grounds and big friendly dogs. While this traveler might be comatose for the first ride, I will willingly be tied on and go out and say hello to the huge friendly water buffalo in the field. I think I recall his name as Tito.
Ana has gained a grandchild since I was there in May 2013 so I am sure to see many photos and perhaps be able to see her, too. The best of this - as it always is- is seeing friends in far places again, catching up, eating good food, having adventures and lots and lots of laughter. AvRooster has promised to come out and harrass me in a few days.
He'd better.
Nov 7th, 2014, 01:09 AM
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Estancia Los Dos Hermanos, where the OP is going for a few days tomorrow, enjoys an extraordinary level of approval here: http://tinyurl.com/mp9kyw
Their percentage of one-time posters is VERY low, indicating the reviews are authentic, which often is NOT the case with other highly rated places on this popular travel source of info.
They have two "terrible" (one star) ratings. But, guess what? They are from people who did NOT even go to the estancia!
Furthermore, unlike other places, they give their REAL address, which is why you can no longer find them at the very top of this list of things to do in Buenos Aires:
http://tinyurl.com/k9lx4y3
The leader of this list (a place which is NOT located in BA) features a VERY high percentage of glowing reviews by one-time posters and we know what this means!
Furthermore, jhubbel gave this place their only "terrible" review last year: http://tinyurl.com/mq2gqeg
So, I'm confident the OP will again have a great time at the Estancia Los Dos Hermanos, while eating her way through their supply of Bueno bars! LOL!!!
Their percentage of one-time posters is VERY low, indicating the reviews are authentic, which often is NOT the case with other highly rated places on this popular travel source of info.
They have two "terrible" (one star) ratings. But, guess what? They are from people who did NOT even go to the estancia!
Furthermore, unlike other places, they give their REAL address, which is why you can no longer find them at the very top of this list of things to do in Buenos Aires:
http://tinyurl.com/k9lx4y3
The leader of this list (a place which is NOT located in BA) features a VERY high percentage of glowing reviews by one-time posters and we know what this means!
Furthermore, jhubbel gave this place their only "terrible" review last year: http://tinyurl.com/mq2gqeg
So, I'm confident the OP will again have a great time at the Estancia Los Dos Hermanos, while eating her way through their supply of Bueno bars! LOL!!!
Nov 7th, 2014, 01:00 PM
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I just walked the Ave de Mayo looking for Bueno bars. Alas. None to be found.
What do you get when you get OP who, on an attempt to sleep at least six of ten flight hours curled into a very small ball on the seat of United flight whatever it was to BsAs(and I mean curled up like a cat in a basket) wakes up with kinks everywhere, owowowowowowow, blind with aches, sleepy anyway, flies through all the proper paperwork, gets bags, forgets her smarts and walks outside to get a taxi?
A US $110 taxi fare.
Come on man, if you don't find that funny, and I do, you better not read this thread. That man took 1600 pesos out of my paw and took my luggage to the hotel and I stumbled to the curb thinking, gee, that seemed like an awful lot, and he sped away before the fog could clear.
It did, about the time I checked in and asked Wendy at the desk, who was horrifed. It's 400 pesos! She cried. Sorry, I'm laughing out loud as I write this.
For those of you who don't know me, I have Robin Williams installed on my internal hard drive, have for a long time, so no matter what idiocy I've pulled out of my dome it doesn't take long for me to "Robin" it, and start giggling. He got my money but I got the funny story, which is worth millions in my book. To those of you who'd still be mad at yourself or the cab driver, kindly keep this in mind: anger is violence, but it only does violence to the one who is angry.
If anyone on here read my stories from Argentina last year you may recall my ass over teakettle landing in the slick tile shower. I am in the same room, same shower. However Wendy apparently heeded my suggestion and there now resides on the floor a plastic non-slip mat, who-hoo, so that when I head in there tonight I have the pleasure of moving around without worrying about burying my head in the loo like I nearly did last time.
Most pleased also to report 78 degree temps, bright sunshine, blue spring skies and MUCH more fruit available in the markets. The market down my favorite sidestreet is vivid with colorful fresh fruits and veggies. I'm also delighted to report that Estoril has skydiving available, so when I come back mid-month I can toss my patootie out of an airplane at least once if not twice before heading out to kayak the open seas.
PS thursdaysd loved your trip report on Romania. Had a blast reading other contributor's food suggestions and comments about horizontal expansions. Very funny! We are both landing in the USA about the same day in silly season. Stay warm, eat well and keep writing!
What do you get when you get OP who, on an attempt to sleep at least six of ten flight hours curled into a very small ball on the seat of United flight whatever it was to BsAs(and I mean curled up like a cat in a basket) wakes up with kinks everywhere, owowowowowowow, blind with aches, sleepy anyway, flies through all the proper paperwork, gets bags, forgets her smarts and walks outside to get a taxi?
A US $110 taxi fare.
Come on man, if you don't find that funny, and I do, you better not read this thread. That man took 1600 pesos out of my paw and took my luggage to the hotel and I stumbled to the curb thinking, gee, that seemed like an awful lot, and he sped away before the fog could clear.
It did, about the time I checked in and asked Wendy at the desk, who was horrifed. It's 400 pesos! She cried. Sorry, I'm laughing out loud as I write this.
For those of you who don't know me, I have Robin Williams installed on my internal hard drive, have for a long time, so no matter what idiocy I've pulled out of my dome it doesn't take long for me to "Robin" it, and start giggling. He got my money but I got the funny story, which is worth millions in my book. To those of you who'd still be mad at yourself or the cab driver, kindly keep this in mind: anger is violence, but it only does violence to the one who is angry.
If anyone on here read my stories from Argentina last year you may recall my ass over teakettle landing in the slick tile shower. I am in the same room, same shower. However Wendy apparently heeded my suggestion and there now resides on the floor a plastic non-slip mat, who-hoo, so that when I head in there tonight I have the pleasure of moving around without worrying about burying my head in the loo like I nearly did last time.
Most pleased also to report 78 degree temps, bright sunshine, blue spring skies and MUCH more fruit available in the markets. The market down my favorite sidestreet is vivid with colorful fresh fruits and veggies. I'm also delighted to report that Estoril has skydiving available, so when I come back mid-month I can toss my patootie out of an airplane at least once if not twice before heading out to kayak the open seas.
PS thursdaysd loved your trip report on Romania. Had a blast reading other contributor's food suggestions and comments about horizontal expansions. Very funny! We are both landing in the USA about the same day in silly season. Stay warm, eat well and keep writing!
