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Northwest Argentina - Specific Itinerary Questions

Northwest Argentina - Specific Itinerary Questions

Old Feb 19th, 2017, 10:23 AM
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Northwest Argentina - Specific Itinerary Questions

Thanks so much for the initial comments on our 3 week Argentina itinerary (upcoming August 18 - Sept 9, 2017 - yay!). It is proving painfully difficult but necessary to limit where we are going and for how long to retain our desire to travel slowly to absorb what we can (during our sadly short vacation time!). After some reading, research, and lots of confusion, I have some questions/concerns about the itinerary listed below, and would love to hear some comments, discussion for any changes.

Specifically 1) Are we shortchanging our time in BA - I know weeks, months, lives, could be spent exploring and living in BA, but given what we have allocated in terms of days relative to the other areas, should we add any time?

2) We gave an initial pass on Cordoba. Why? No specific reason other than it was an extra flight and we weren't sure what would draw us. But it seems like we have extra time (see below). Should it be added - instead of adding more time to BA, or regardless, add it in. Cost of the flight will not deter our plan one way or another.

Aug 19 - Arrive BA early day - Stay in San Telmo or Recoleta)
Aug 20 - BA (San Telmo or Recoleta))
Aug 21 - BA (San Telmo or Recoleta)
Aug 22 - BA (San Telmo or Recoleta) Fly to Salta
Aug 23 - Salta
Aug 24 - Salta, Pick up rental car in Salta, drive to Pumamarca,
Aug 25 - Pumamarca, Salinas Grandes, drive to Cachi
Aug 26 - Cachi, Drive to Cafayate
Aug 27 - Cafayate
Aug 28 - Cafayate
Aug 29 - Cafayate, drive to Salta, drop off car and fly to Mendoza OR??
Aug 30 ?
Aug 31 ?
Sept 1 ?
Sept 2 Mendoza winery (note these three nights are for some real down time, not specifically winery touring)
Sept 3 Mendoza winery (note these three nights are for some real down time, not specifically winery touring)
4 Mendoza winery (note these three nights are for some real down time, not specifically winery touring)
Sept 5 Mendoza - city (Fly to Puerto Iguazu)
Sept 6 Puerto Iguazu
Sept 7 Puerto Iguazu (Fly to BA)
Sept 8 BA
Sept 9 Fly to Canada

As per above, there are three (3) nights that are unaccounted for. A luxury (perhaps) but as we are already limiting our trip to Northern Argentina (not a hardship I know!), where should we put these nights to best use? I had originally thought to fly to Salta, and take 11 days to drive to Mendoza, but the overall car rental cost (with drop off in different town) was prohibitive. We are not necessarily looking to budget our trip...we know the flights domestically are pricey, but we can balance that with our vacation time value.

I appreciate any and all comments...this forum area of Fodors isn't as popular as others and so all time spent commenting I feel is so generous and kind

Sincerely,
Jenn
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Old Feb 19th, 2017, 11:08 AM
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My comments, most of which are a matter of taste, meaning this is what I would do, which may or may not be the best for you:

Yes, I feel you are short-changing BA.

I would NOT stay in San Telmo, but that's just me.

Sounds to me like too many days in Salta.

If you are into wine tasting, as you seem to be, maybe one more day in Mendoza.

Maybe add one more day in Iguazú and visit the Brazilian side of the falls.

Have a great time in my country, Jenn.
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Old Feb 19th, 2017, 12:34 PM
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avrooster - so humbled to have you comment on this itinerary... If you would be so kind, if we had 4-6 nights in BA, where would you want us to stay, as new folk to Argentina, keen to explore BA (and be safe), day and night. I was drawn to San Telmo for what I read to be a cultural and safe vibe, but open to all suggestions.
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Old Feb 19th, 2017, 07:59 PM
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I think you could easily add a day in BA, assuming that you enjoy cities of course or maybe include a trip out of the city to Tigre (maybe a little cold though or even a ferry across to Colonia del Sacremento. I agree with Avrooster regarding San Telmo - great on a Sunday for the markets, tango etc. but I prefer one of the Palermos, Soho maybe and somewhere close to a subte line. If in BA on a Sunday (and are REALLY hungry) do check out the brunch at the Alvear Palace. Avroooster took us there with some friends last year. We happen to be staying with those friends this weekend and they are still raving about the experience!

Flying is not the only option to get between cities.Buses are a very comfortable and efficient way of travelling longer distances, especially overnight and in first class.

We weren't particularly enamoured of Mendoza city but that was a long time ago. There are some great wineries in which to stay there though if the primary purpose of your visit is wine. We got the bus between Mendoza and Salta, stopping for a few nights in San Raphael mid way between the two. We were there mainly to look at property, but there is also the Canon de Atuel which is impressive.

I also agree with Avrooster re visiting the Brazilian side of the falls but, if I am reading your itinerary correctly, I think you have three nights there which should be enough time.

Looking at your time in the northwest , on 25 August, you seem to have have a very long day. My memory of the route we took is a little hazy - it was a long time ago.

Despite several visits to Argentina we too passed on. Córdoba but are not sure why.

One option would be to leave your time more or less as is and use those spare days to include a flying visit to a destination in the south. Peninsula Valdez for the whales, Bariloche and the seven lakes area - just a thought.
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Old Feb 19th, 2017, 11:48 PM
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Jenn:

As top poster crellston says, I feel you should stay in one of the Palermos, but it depends on your age and tastes. If older (you don't sound older), I would suggest the Recoleta.

Top poster crellston: thank you very much for your comment about the Alvear's brunch.

Yes, our buses are considered pretty good, "especially overnight and in first class".

I disagree with top poster crellston about going to our South at that time of the year. On your next trip, I would suggest going to our South in our mid to late spring or late summer. Avoid that area between Xmas and early March, as that's the time when we locals take our summer holidays.

Have a great time in my country, Jenn and Mitch.
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Old Feb 20th, 2017, 03:58 AM
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While I hesitate to put a comment in with such worthies as AV and crellston, I think you've got plenty of time in BA for a first trip, but that you're leaving out one of my favorite places in Argentina: Jujuy Province, north of Salta. So I would take the two or three days do that before leaving the northwest.

My thoughts return on an almost daily basis to Jujuy Province.
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Old Feb 20th, 2017, 04:36 AM
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In my mind, Jujuy and Salta are our NW and I would certainly try to visit Jujuy while you are in Salta, Jenn.
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Old Feb 21st, 2017, 01:49 PM
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Dear Jenn; I think you are not taking too much time in the NW, but... I would distribute your time differently. If you are going to rent a car and drive around, let me recommend you an interesting itinerary because August is a month with plenty of activities in the NW. Specially because it is Pachamama's month, when people are allowed to get wool from wild vicuñas, and the fields have to be prepared for seeding...
Also remember August is a month when does not rain. You will not have any problems with mudslides or broken roads.
Aug 23rd; Arrival... take the chance to see the town.
Aug 24th; Salta - Purmamarca- visit the salt flats and return to Purmamarca
August 25th; start after walking around Los Colorados, a pathway in Purmamarca - Uquia (visit the church where 9 of a serie of paintings are displayed) have lunch in Humahuaca ( I recommend Mykunayoc...it is charming and the best food). After lunch drive up to Iruya... a magic town in the mountains.
Aug 26th; Wake up in the magic Iruya... enjoy... you can hike up to San Isidro... or just enjoy the place.and return to Tilcara...
Aug 27th; enjoy the Indian ruins and the Museum... drive back to Salta
Aug 28th; Salta - Cachi or Molinos
Aug 29th; Molinos - Cafayate
Aug 30th; Cafayate - visit wineries - wine musuem... goat cheese...
Aug 31st;Cafayate - Salta ( Warning: it will not take less than 4 hours...)
Have a wonderful time in the area!
I hope I helped.
Angie/Flintstones
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Old Feb 21st, 2017, 10:44 PM
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Jenn: Angie is a top independent NW guide and certainly knows what she is talking about.
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Old Feb 27th, 2017, 01:32 PM
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Last time in BA (although a while ago) I stayed in what some travel sites call Recoleta North, roughly around Av. Santa Fe some blocks west of Av. 9 de Julio. It's busy enough but maybe a little quieter than close to the main train station. At that time many apartments were available through a bunch of on-line websites. I see that big booking sites such as Booking.com now also book apartments in the city. My landlord explained that under the currency regulations following the debt default, buying property was one of the few places to secure spare money. Those investment properties increased the supply of rental space. I bow to AVRooster's much more up-to-date advice, especially whether AirBnB is now in the market and whether there has been legal backlash as in some other cities/countries.
PS: I remain dizzy that the maps on some BA travel sites do not automatically position North at the top of the page as in many other places.
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Old Feb 28th, 2017, 02:25 AM
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Real estate brokers use the magic word "Recoleta" for places which are in the area called "Barrio Norte", not really in "la Recoleta".

I don´t think there has been here any "legal backlash" affecting short term rentals, as seen in NY, for instance. Top poster Marnie is renting a flat here right now, with no problems, as far as I know.

I feel it´s crazy about those maps NOT showing North at the top.

Have a great time in my country.
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Old Feb 28th, 2017, 03:29 AM
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Sotham: I have been complaining (and dizzy) about the sites and maps not showing North at the top of the page.

Thanks to fellow traveler, Moreweird, I discovered BORCH MAPS and the one for BsAs has been ever so usefful. It's durable and one can write on it/and wipe off. Really, for one with a, ahem, limited sense of direction such as myself... it has been a godsend.
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Old Feb 28th, 2017, 03:55 AM
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MarnieWDC:

Southam asked "whether AirBnB is now in the market" of short-term apartment rentals.

I thought you would know about that. Am I right?
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Old Feb 28th, 2017, 12:46 PM
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Sotham: Yes, Air B&B is operating in Buenos Aires as is FlipKey, HomeAway and other short-term rental consolidators. We have had good luck with them, though I would add that some of the more established companies, eg: BA Habitat, Reynolds Propriedades are also reliable and easy to work with.
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Old Mar 5th, 2017, 11:35 AM
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Thanks so much to everyone for their helpful suggestions - we finally had time this weekend to further nail down our itinerary based on your help. The revised skeleton itinerary is below...

Flintstones/Angie - we made particular use of your feedback. I did notice on another thread your email address was indicated, noting you might provide guide services. I would like to reach out, if OK with you, to see if perhaps we might be able to elicit your services for a couple parts of the itinerary in the NW.

Aug 18 - leave Halifax
Aug 19 Buenos Aires
Aug 20 Buenos Aires
Aug 21 Buenos Aires
Aug 22 Salta - (via flight from Buenos Aires)
Aug 23 Purmamarca
Aug 24 Purmamarca
Aug 25 Iruya
Aug 26 Huacalera
Aug 27 Huacalera
Aug 28 Salta
Aug 29 Cafayate
Aug 30 Cafayate
Aug 31 Cafayate
Sep 1 Mendoza – (via flight from Salta)
Sep 2 Mendoza
Sep 3 Mendoza
Sep 4 Mendoza/Iguazu - (via flight from Mendoza)
Sep 5 Iguaza
Sep 6 Iguaza/Buenos Aires – flight $230.00
Sep 7 Buenos Aires
Sep 8 Buenos Aires
Sep 9 Return to Canada
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Old Mar 6th, 2017, 02:04 AM
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Jenn: of course it is OK to "reach out" to Angie Valdez to request her services. That's how she makes a living.

Her e-mail is: angie_guideAThotmailDOTcom

You can research her by writing Angie in the TA forum's search feature. This is a sample of what you'll read about her: http://tinyurl.com/jo5noa6

Have a great time in my country, Jenn and Mitch.
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